Hodinkee
Auctions: Tom Brady Sale To Include His Unique Royal Oak Flying Tourbillon Among Other Watches
Sotheby's "GOAT Collection" auction to feature watches and other memorabilia from the seven-time Super Bowl winner.
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Hodinkee
SJX Watches
Revival-Brand Edouard Koehn Debuts Split-Seconds Chronograph
A dormant name recently revived, Edouard Koehn was once famous for its high-quality pocket watches, usually signed “Ed. Koehn”, one of which inspired the Legacy Rattrapante Split-Seconds Chronograph. Powered by an automatic calibre made by Concepto, the Legacy Rattrapante has a fired enamel dial inside a stainless steel case. Initial thoughts Though it was resurrected only a short while ago, Edouard Koehn has put out a variety of watches, ranging from chunky sports watches to world-timers. The Legacy Rattrapante is its most classical design to date. The styling essentially replicates a vintage pocket watch, so it’s not imaginative, but the functional simplicity is appealing. But because the watch employs a Concepto calibre, it is thick at 14.6 mm high, which is at odds with the vintage-inspired design. And the Legacy Rattrapante is also pricey at almost CHF16,000, or about US$19,000. Though the fired enamel dial is an expensive bonus, it still costs double the Habring² Doppel, which has a more sophisticated movement for almost half the price. Pocket watch style Born in Germany, Edouard Koehn (1839-1908) was a watchmaker who worked at Patek Philippe before establishing his own brand in Geneva that produced watches signed “Ed. Koehn” as well as under the brand name, H.R. Ekegren, a Danish brand he acquired. Koehn’s son, also named Edouard, inherited the firm, which went bust during the Great Depression. Several years ago, the Edouard Koehn trademark was acquir...
Teddy Baldassarre
Frederique Constant Classic Date & Moonphase Review
Frederique Constant takes a consistent, evolutionary approach to the design language used in its Classic collection. Sometimes those evolutionary leaps are larger than others. This is certainly the case with two additions to the collection released earlier this year: the Manufacture Classic Date, and Classic Moonphase Date, which have undergone a series of both small and large changes that represent a marked maturity for the brand. The new watches will find themselves squarely in front of a new audience as a result, and bring a welcome set of options in the often neglected formal genre at a sub-$5,000 price point. In hand and on wrist, these watches bring a surprising level of sophistication thanks to a keen attention to detail. If this isn’t a brand you’ve taken seriously in the past, it might be time for a second look. In an era dominated by sports watches and so-called GADA watches, it’s easy to forget just how essential a dedicated clean, classical, formal watch can be. They are easy watches to overlook, as their beauty lies in the small details rather than big, eye -catching flourishes, but with a little patience, these watches can be just as compelling as anything else out there. If the brand respects the process, that is. With minimal complications, scales, and bezels to work with, the design and execution of the few details that are present are paramount to evoking the necessary emotions. There is nothing to hide behind here. The odd shape or finish of an h...
Fratello
Introducing: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface In A New Size And Two Colorways
Jaeger-LeCoultre says the two new Reverso Tribute Monoface models are a perfect fit for both men and women. Well, first, we must try these watches in real life before passing a judgment like that. They look promising, though, thanks to their dimensions, which stay close to the original Reverso from 1931. Other new additions to […] Visit Introducing: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface In A New Size And Two Colorways to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Hamilton Adds White Dial and Bracelet to Khaki Field Murph 38 mm
Originally conceived as a prop for the sci-fi film Interstellar, the Hamilton Khaki Field Murph 38 mm is now available with a white dial or a stainless steel bracelet. This expands the Khaki Field Murph line two beyond the 42 mm original and the first 38 mm model that was only available with a black dial on a strap. The scaled-down Murph retains the same design as the original, which played a key role in the film directed by Christopher Nolan, which starred Jessica Chastain as Murph, a scientist working to save the Earth. Initial thoughts The Murph was a hit when it went from screen to store in 2019. It had a clean, vintage-military aesthetic with cathedral hands and no date, along with an affordable price tag. Now the white dial arguably gives it a more dynamic look than before, with the white adding contrast and also setting it apart from the numerous other military-inspired watches. Though the design isn’t novel, the Murph 38 mm is appealing for being simple and affordable. Starting at US$895 on a strap, the Murph 38 mm sits in between comparable watches from its sister brands Tissot and Longines, and is also in between in terms of fit and finish. In other words, it is priced right. Vintage-inspired aesthetics Water-resistant to 100 m, the Murph’s stainless steel case is a compact 38 mm in diameter, though tall at 11.1 mm high. The case is mainly brushed, except for the mirror-polished bezel. The optional steel bracelet has a matching brushed finish. And like most m...
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How a Mechanical Watch Works
Monochrome
First Look – The New Bulgari Octo Roma Striking 8 Days
Bulgari’s personality is intrinsically shaped by Rome, incorporating elements of the city’s magnificent imperial architecture into its fabulous jewellery and watches. The iconic Octo family, which includes the invincible legion of ultra-thin, record-breaking Octo Finissimo models, welcomes the new Octo Roma Striking 8 Days. If the watch looks familiar, it’s because the movement powering this […]
Quill & Pad
Why I Bought It: Grönefeld 1941 Remontoire
There are some watches you fall for the moment you see them. Sometimes that initial infatuation passes and you move on to the next temporary obsession, but then there are those instances in which the more you see, talk about, and learn about a piece and its origins the more you resolve to save up to buy one. For GaryG, the Grönefeld 1941 Remontoire was one of the latter.
SJX Watches
Indie-Focused IAMWATCH Registration and Programme
Announced a month ago, IAMWATCH is a three-day event centred on independent watchmaking that encompasses lectures, classes, and panel discussions. Taking place in Singapore from October 18 to 20 at the Edition hotel, Iamwatch has just revealed its programme for the event, which promises three full days – from breakfast to sundown drinks – of watches, watchmakers, and watch industry personalities. Entry is free but registration online is required. Boldface names attending the event include independent watchmakers Felix Baumgartner, Konstantin Chaykin, Kari Voutilainen, and Rexhep Rexhepi; watch entrepreneurs Jean-Claude Biver, Manuel Emch, Maximilian Büsser, and Jean Arnault; and auctioneers Aurel Bacs and Sam Hines. Konstantin Chaykin, Felix Baumgartner, and Rexhep Rexhepi Each day begins with a breakfast hosted by industrial notables, including Maximilian Büsser on October 19. The breakfast is followed by a full schedule, including daily lectures about history and horology by historian David Rooney, author of About Time, a history of timekeeping. Jean Arnault, Aurel Bacs, and Manuel Emch Afternoons include classes on various topics, including Jean-Claude Biver on being a watchmaking entrepreneur – a pitch perfect match of speaker and subject if there ever was one. Panel discussions take place daily as well, including one dedicated to independent watchmaking on the final day, October 20, moderated by myself with Felix Baumgartner, Kari Voutilainen, Rexhep Rexhepi ...
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: the Xeric Artemis Chronograph
Picture this: You’re playing Thursday night trivia and the DJ asks which watch was first worn on the moon. The softball question generates bar-wide high fives as everyone celebrates their collective awareness of Buzz Aldrin’s Speedmaster that forever married watches and space travel into pop culture lore. Less than a year after we took our first small steps on the moon, the Apollo 13 mission sought a return to our celestial stomping grounds. Once again, a watch stole our collective attention, this time as part of the ill fated Apollo 13 mission. The world heard the phrase “Houston, we’ve had a problem here” and held its collective breadth as the safe return of three astronauts packed into a Lunar Module 200,000 miles from earth became dependant on their ability to precisely time a 14 second burn of the module’s thrusters – a task achieved with a NASA qualified Omega Speedmaster. John F. Kennedy famously declared that we choose to go to the moon not because it is easy, but because it is hard. While nothing about the nearly tragic Apollo 13 story makes this land-loving watch nerd want to get a closer view of the stars, others feel inspired to embody Kennedy’s words and to keep pushing farther… 586 times farther, to be exact. Kicking off this exciting new phase of space travel is NASA’s Artemis Program, which will bring a new generation of astronauts to the moon with new technology to be used on the quest for Mars. The Watch Watch collectors looking to cel...
SJX Watches
Business News: Bulgari and Six Independents Join Watches & Wonders 2025
Continuing the evolution and growth of Watches & Wonders Geneva (WWG), the event will see new additions next year, with Bulgari coming on board as a major exhibitor, along with a half dozen independent brands, including Christiaan van der Klaauw, Kross Studio, and HYT. Bulgari will then become the second major jewellery to show at the event, after Cartier, which historically dominated the Geneva fair when it was still known as Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH). WWG was essentially a renamed SIHH after the demise of Baselworld, and Cartier retained its most-favoured status at the event even after the transition to WWG in 2020. As WWG has evolved, however, the balance of power has shifted, as reflected by the recent additions to the event’s governing board. While Cartier and its parent Richemont once had half the seats on the board, the pair now account for just two seats on the expanded, seven-member board, which now includes LVMH, the French luxury group that owns Bulgari. The last SIHH ever that took place in 2019 Indies and youth The addition of six more independent brands to WWG add to its diversity, with a majority of the exhibitors now being small and tiny independent brands. But as was the case with Baselworld before, the independent brands participating are a mixed bad of the good, the bad, and the ugly, which is one reason why some established independent brands are doing their own thing outside the fair – and which ironically was the reason SIH...
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Analyze Your Watch Collection | #ASKTNH 128
Quill & Pad
Omega vs. Rolex: How Omega is Reaching for the Crown
It is the old age question - Rolex vs. Omega. Which brand should I buy from? Which brand produces better watches? Should I buy an Omega Seamaster Professional 300M or Rolex Submariner? Through their histories, the two brands have been going head-to-head whether it's on design or technology. Raman Kalra explores how Omega compares to Rolex.
Fratello
Showing Off The Gold-Plated Zodiac Super Sea Wolf Compression Diver This Monday Morning
There might be debate about which brand released the first modern dive watch, but it’s safe to say that Zodiac was one of the first three. The Sea Wolf debuted in the 1950s - 1957 seems to be the year of the watch’s release, but this is still up for debate - and its original […] Visit Showing Off The Gold-Plated Zodiac Super Sea Wolf Compression Diver This Monday Morning to read the full article.
Time+Tide
New releases from Hublot, Ulysse Nardin, Chronoswiss and more
Not just one, but two watches dedicated to sailing have just been announced. Both Hublot and Panerai presented two maritime-themed timepieces. In addition, Omega’s Constellation collection has been greatly expanded and Ulysse Nardin is introducing a colourful collaboration using the Freak as a platform. Discover our full selection here below and let us know what … ContinuedThe post New releases from Hublot, Ulysse Nardin, Chronoswiss and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New: Grand Seiko 45GS limited edition
Grand Seiko introduces two new limited edition timepieces, the SLGW004 and SLGW005, which pay homage to the iconic 45GS model first introduced in 1968. These watches reintroduces the iconic Seiko - Grand Seiko dial on a 45GS case and with the new hand-wound movement.
Worn & Wound
Just A Minute With The Tissot PRX
While Tissot is a storied Swiss watchmaker, having been founded in 1880, right now they are best known for their line of sexy, 70s-inspired sports watches called PRX. A throwback to an era of bell bottoms, big cars, record players, etc… the PRXs feature an “integrated bracelet” design, meaning the case and bracelet or strap seamlessly flow into each other. A sleek-looking concept, it became the rage in the 70s, exuding a certain luxurious bravado, and had a recent resurgence. The PRX executes the concept with style to spare, all at an affordable price point. While Tissot is a storied Swiss watchmaker, having been founded in 1880, right now they are best known for their line of sexy, 70s-inspired sports watches called PRX. A throwback to an era of bell bottoms, big cars, record players, etc… the PRXs feature an “integrated bracelet” design, meaning the case and bracelet or strap seamlessly flow into each other. A sleek-looking concept, it became the rage in the 70s, exuding a certain luxurious bravado, and had a recent resurgence. The PRX executes the concept with style to spare, all at an affordable price point. The post Just A Minute With The Tissot PRX appeared first on Worn & Wound.
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An Introduction To JLC & 1940s Military Watch Review, The Story Of Rolex Book + Eterna Unboxing
Worn & Wound
Citizen Releases New References in their Premium Attesa Collection
“Attesa” is an Italian word that means “expectation” or “anticipation.” Since 1987, it has been the home of Citizen’s next-generation watches, where its expertise in processing titanium and employing innovative technologies exceeds expectations and anticipates the future. Think of it as their E-Class; anecdotally, Mercedes’ E-Class is the first to receive all the latest bells and whistles, which are later incorporated into the other model lines. Speaking of bells and whistles, Attesa is launching two new world-time chronographs for 2024, both packed with a wide range of features and functions. The first is the CC4059-64L, a 44.6mm Super Titanium timepiece featuring an ultra-hard black Duratect DLC coated case. Its dial features blue-violet vertical striping, while the subdials and rehaut are black. Its bezel matches the color of the dial, and the city names are applied using a special vapor deposition process to create a reflective silver color. The second is the CC4074-61W, which utilizes the same case, bracelet, and black Duratect DLC coating. However, this model features a sunburst charcoal dial with black subdials and rehaut and a black sapphire bezel with city names in pink gold. Pink gold also appears on the bezel edges, hands, applied markers, the edges of the subdials, and the date window. Powering these high-tech pieces is the state-of-the-art Citizen caliber F950. This movement can receive a satellite-correcting signal in just 3 seconds, which is ...
SJX Watches
In-Depth: F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain Vertical
The very first wristwatch François-Paul Journe created was the Tourbillon Remontoir d’Egalité – three prototypes were made in 1993 and he retained the very first example. Arguably the most famous F.P. Journe wristwatch alongside the Résonance, the tourbillon has since evolved into the Tourbillon Souverain Vertical, which is likely the final version of the watchmaker’s take on Abraham-Louis Breguet’s invention. Conceived for chronometric utility as a wristwatch, the Tourbillon Vertical, or “TV” for short, is the latest iteration of Mr Journe’s interpretation of A.-L. Breguet’s invention. It was launched in 2019 for the 20th anniversary of the Tourbillon Remontoir d’Egalite. The vertical tourbillon sits in a countersink with mirror-polished sides The Tourbillon Vertical retains the signature double feature of the original F.P. Journe tourbillon, namely a tourbillon regulator and a remontoir d’egalite, or constant force device. But while the prototype and all subsequent iterations of the F.P. Journe tourbillon had a flat tourbillon on the same plane as the movement, the Tourbillon Vertical is self-descriptive. Its tourbillon sits perpendicular to the movement, with both the carriage and balance wheel standing at a 90° angle to the plane of the dial. In sophistication, finish, materials, and even size, the Tourbillon Vertical is far removed from the 1993 prototypes. Yet it is quintessential F.P. Journe in its elegant, concise technical approach while al...
Monochrome
Introducing – The New Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph Boutique Edition
An important range for the brand, Zenith keeps enlarging its Defy collection. The name of the collection dates to Zenith’s 1902 line of robust pocket watches bearing the name ‘Defi’, which popped up again in 1969 to distinguish the toughest member of the first El Primero references known as the A3642. The Defy Skyline sub-collection appeared […]
SJX Watches
Louis Erard and Kudoke Collaborate on Le Régulateur
Louis Erard’s continues its collaborative streak with independent watchmakers. The Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Kudoke is essentially a Louis Erard regulator model dressed in Kudoke’s signature dial and hands. Available in purple, forest green, light blue or white mother-of-pearl, the dial goes all-in with the details. It sports applied chapter rings, clous de Paris patterning on the hour register, and a stamped granular finish on the rest of the dial, echoing the aesthetic of Kudoke’s Handwerk collection. Initial thoughts The new model boasts impressive dial details that are usually found in pricier timepieces, while managing to retain the identities of both brands in a best-of-both-worlds presentation, making it arguably one of Louis Erard’s very best collaborations. But because it is fundamentally a Le Régulateur, it has the shortcomings of the model, namely a noticeably thick case that’s required to accommodate the Sellita base movement plus regulator module. Still, the Kudoke Le Régulateur is a good value proposition all things considered. Though slightly more expensive, the mother-of-pearl model stands out as it offers an unusual combination of materials and design in this price segment. Affordable guilloché The stainless steel case is identical to that of the standard model, and measures 42 mm in diameter and 12.25 mm in thickness. It is entirely polished and features domed sapphire crystals on both sides. The dial retains the model’s trademark in-lin...
Worn & Wound
Breitling Introduces a Trio of Gold Perpetual Calendars for a Big Anniversary
Breitling has been synonymous with pilot watches and aviation for 140 years. Throughout their illustrious history, many iconic collections have been produced, including the Premier, the Chronomat, and, let’s not forget, the world-famous Navitimer. As they approached this significant anniversary, they found themselves in a delightful dilemma. They couldn’t choose which of the three collections should receive special attention. So, instead of choosing, they decided to feature all three, and that’s precisely what they did. And by special attention, they were not talking about just a new dial color, case material, or unique engraving. No, they are introducing a brand-new movement and a first for Breitling. This new B19 movement is not just a column-wheel chronograph, which features a vertical clutch mechanism and a moon phase. It is also a full perpetual calendar that can automatically correct for leap years and months of 28, 30, and 31 days. It can run for nearly one hundred years without significant adjustment, and despite all these extra complications, its power reserve is a very generous 96 hours. In 1943, the Breitling Premier was the watch that brought the chronograph out of the cockpit and onto the wrists of everyday people. With its classic lines, clean looks, and no-nonsense design, it not only looked fashionable but was also very practical. The new Premier B19 Datora 140th Anniversary is no different. It features an 18K red gold 42mm case, which is 15.6mm thick...
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The Ultimate Gun Enthusiast's Luxury Automatic Watch - The Snyper One Chronograph Review
Monochrome
Introducing – Back to Basics for the Finnish Watchmaker with the Sarpaneva Supermoon
If I were asked which is the most emblematic watch ever created by Sarpaneva, my answer would be immediate, resolute and irreversible. It has to be the Korona, and to be even more precise, the Korona K3 with its openworked dial and partially visible double-moonface underneath. First presented in 2008 by Finnish watchmaker Stepan Sarpaneva, […]
Time+Tide
The mid-sized Grand Seiko SBGH347 debuts a new dial texture inspired by a frozen waterfall
The Grand Seiko SBGH347 not only debuts an icy blue dial with a brand new texture, but also the first-ever 37mm Ever-Brilliant Steel case.The post The mid-sized Grand Seiko SBGH347 debuts a new dial texture inspired by a frozen waterfall appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Hands-On With The Urwerk EMC SR-71
I have never mastered packing light, which bit me during Geneva Watch Days 2024. I carried a relatively heavy backpack with camera gear, a video kit, and a daily swag collection. That’s not normally an issue, but the heat and humidity in Geneva were no joke. Then, my colleague Dave Sergeant took me on a […] Visit Hands-On With The Urwerk EMC SR-71 to read the full article.
Monochrome
In-Depth – The Parmigiani Fleurier Toric, Sartorial Elegance and High-End Watchmaking
Coinciding with the arrival of Guido Terreni as CEO of the brand, high-end Swiss watchmaker Parmigiani Fleurier has undergone a complete restructuring for the past years. This move was initiated by the launch of a significant collection, the Tonda PF, which not only modernized the vision we had of PF but also pushed it into […]
Worn & Wound
The New Christopher Ward C60 Trident Lumière Puts Glowing Blocks of Globolight Center Stage
The upward trajectory of Christopher Ward in the eyes of enthusiasts and collectors has been well documented over the last few years. The Bel Canto, of course, completely changed the game for the brand, and was an announcement to the broader watchmaking community of something ardent supporters have known for quite some time: that the team at Christopher Ward is capable of real outside-the-box thinking, and has an ambition to tweak expectations far beyond that of most brands in their price range. They have periodically introduced watches since that in one way or another qualify as what you might call “statement pieces,” or watches that seem to exist for the purpose of shifting the community’s expectations around the brand. The Twelve X, introduced earlier this year, is a perfect example, and I’d also point you toward a personal favorite of mine, the C1 Moonphase, which works as an art piece the same was some of the watches created by my favorite high end independents. Their latest offering, at least on the surface, is perhaps not as paradigm shifting as any of the watches mentioned previously, but it’s still generating an awful lot of chatter online for a series of dramatic improvements to just about every feature of a core offering from Christopher Ward: the dive watch. The Trident collection, Christopher Ward’s dive watch range, is now in its 15th year, and the new C60 Trident Lumière is described by the brand as the pinnacle of the series to date. There ar...
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