Deployant
The Vertical Collection: Three essential, most important watches from Chopard
It has been a while since we last added to our Vertical Collection series. Here is our fourth in the series - a favourite of ours: Chopard.
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Deployant
It has been a while since we last added to our Vertical Collection series. Here is our fourth in the series - a favourite of ours: Chopard.
Monochrome
Switzerland-based luxury conglomerate Richemont Group has just issued its trading update for the nine months ended 31 December 2023. The group, which includes brands such as Cartier, IWC, JLC and Vacheron, reports sales up by 8% at constant exchange rates and by 4% at actual exchange rates to EUR 5.6 billion for the last quarter […]
Monochrome
Behind the Dan Henry Watches brand is a man known as… Dan Henry. An avid collector with great taste in vintage watches, he has used some of his favourite models to create a collection of timepieces inspired by the past but with an excellent price/quality ratio. Following a couple of cool automatic dive watches – […]
SJX Watches
Oris gives its signature model a subtle makeover with the Big Crown Father Time Limited Edition, a collaboration with Marylebone Cricket Club (MCC). This release commemorates the pair’s three-year collaboration that began in 2022 and combines a 40 mm bronze case with a creamy white dial. Initial thoughts The Big Crown Father Time is best described as a cricket-themed variation of the bronze Big Crown Pointer Date. The cricket element, however, is subtle and practically absent from the dial, which is not a bad thing since it gives the watch the widest possible appeal. Setting aside the cricket theme, the contrast between the dial elements and the dial itself is appealing. The watch stands out in terms of legibility due to this contrast. The cathedral hands and extra-large crown add a nice touch that evoke vintage Oris models. And though I’m typically a fan of fluted bezels, this one works well. This is equipped with a Sellita SW 200-1 instead of an in-house movement. However, with a retail price of US$3,100, it is still acceptable value. “Father Time” Sitting on top of the clock tower, Father Time is the weathervane at Lord’s Cricket Ground and was gifted to MCC in 1926 by architect Sir Herbert Baker. Because Lord’s is the “Home of Cricket”, and the MCC once the sport’s governing body, Father Time is one of the globally recognised symbols of the sport. The Big Crown Pointer Date, on the other hand, is synonymous with Oris. Introduced in 1938 as a pilot’...
Worn & Wound
A January launch of a new Speedmaster (on a Tuesday, of course) has become a bit of a tradition for Omega over these past few years. Today, Omega has announced a new Dark Side of the Moon Speedmaster, which at first glance (and maybe a second and third glance) will look a whole lot like an earlier iteration of the popular ceramic version of the chronograph. The newest addition, though, has a few little updates that are likely to appeal to the most hardcore Speedmaster collectors. “Little” is the operative word here for at least one of them, which also might be the most technically impressive. The Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon Apollo 8 is a follow up to the first edition of this watch, which was released in 2018 to mark the 50th anniversary of the mission. That original Apollo 8 watch was an immediate hit. It combined a lot of the modern tech and materials of contemporary ceramic Speedmasters with the familiar and highly regarded manually wound movement that is so much a part of the Speedy’s DNA. The rendition of the lunar surface on the dial was also particularly well executed and impressive. The new Apollo 8 features an updated movement, Calibre 3869, which is analogous to Calibre 1869 used in the previous version. This new movement has been specced to match Calibre 3861, the manually wound caliber at the heart of the current Moonwatch. It’s a significant upgrade from the older movement, and has been fitted with a co-axial escapement and meets all the requir...
Hodinkee
The auction is live on Bring A Trailer and all proceeds will be donated to Health Care For US.
Time+Tide
The cruelty-free and environmentally friendly may have an underlying issue.The post The very large asterisk of vegan leather straps appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Behrens 2012 is one of the most exciting young brands working in the ever growing affordable avant-garde space. Based in China, Behrens has developed a cult following as of late, riding primarily on the strength of the impressive “Ultralight,” a futuristic design that is typical of their house aesthetic, weighing in just 20 grams. Given the Ultralight’s impressive specs and unique design, the $7,600 price tag feels almost like a bargain, but a look through the Behrens catalog reveals that they have a number of gems at prices that are truly affordable. Their latest watch, the Orion One Automatic, is a little more approachable in terms of price point, but is perhaps the brand’s most outlandish design yet. It’s yet another example of a watchmaking aesthetic that was previously reserved for six figure timepieces working its way down into the affordable segment. The case of the Orion One recalls something between a spaceship and what you’d see under the hood of a modern supercar. It’s the kind of thing that barely resembles a watch, at first, but reveals its form and complexity as you observe it. The first thing you notice is likely the array of gears under the sapphire crystal window at the top of the case, where you’d normally find a dial. Here, the only time telling function is a running seconds hand at the center. Time is read through a “twin roller” time display system at the 6:00 position. It’s fairly intuitive, but in a position that you’re li...
Deployant
Another of BCP Tourbillons is realised in the new Delma 1924 Tourbillon, celebrating the 100th anniversary of the Delma maison.
Monochrome
Jaeger-LeCoultre‘s Master Thin collection is home to sophisticated, understated, ultra-thin dress watches ranging from time-and-date to moon phase models and more complex proposals like tourbillons and perpetual calendars. Offered with understated beige or sunray decorated dials, JLC introduced métiers d’art dials to the collection at the end of 2018. First appearing on the Master Ultra […]
Worn & Wound
It was early summer in 2020 and it felt like the entire world was on fire. The Coronavirus was running rampant, and the Quebec Government had instituted draconian lockdown measures, which included a nightly curfew. If residents were not in their homes by 8pm, fines were issued. It was a horrible time. My wife and I had no choice but to work from home, and both of my boys were attempting homeschooling for the first time. My oldest was in his second year of college and my youngest was in his last year of high school. We all struggled with this new way of doing things. On the bright side however, all this togetherness allowed me to introduce my kids to some of my beloved film franchises. We went through all the Die Hards, Lethal Weapons, Beverly Hills Cops and Aliens. The latter really stuck with them and my oldest found a video game called Alien Isolation, which he insisted we try. So, we did. Coincidentally Monta had sent me an OnceanKing to review and to this day, in my brain, this watch is linked to the Alien franchise and the great time I had with my boys kicking Alien posterior! I really, really liked the Monta OceanKing version II, nevertheless it was not without its flaws. Some of which have been addressed with the new version III which I’ve been lent for review. So, let’s dive in and see what they have done. The dimensions have remained very similar, with a diameter of 40.5mm (down from 40.7mm), a thickness of 12mm (same as the previous model) and a lug-to-lug le...
Monochrome
We introduced Rashid Tsoroev, an emerging watchmaker and his debut Arrow timepiece in 2021, and upon learning about the latest creation from his one-person atelier in the Republic of Ingushetia, our curiosity was piqued. The aptly named Arrow Evo, equipped with a different movement, is a testament to Rashid’s evolution as a watchmaker while retaining […]
Worn & Wound
In 2015 Montblanc launched the Villeret Tourbillon Cylindrique Geosphere Vasco da Gama, an ultra-high-end Minerva based word timer, which featured southern and northern hemisphere displays. Later in 2018, they introduced a more affordable non-tourbillon version called the 1858 Geosphere, but this time the hemispheres were displayed on a vertical axis. Since then, there have been multiple different color combinations and materials, such as bronze and titanium, on bracelets, and even on a bund strap. New for 2024 is the 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen South Pole Limited Edition. This new 42mm x 12.8mm piece is crafted in lightweight titanium, with a blue aluminum bezel insert, which features green lumed cardinal points. The hour and minute hands, along with the numbers and markers also glow green. While the two domed hemisphere globes, together with the second time zone displayed at 9 o’clock glow blue. The dial features a sfumato iced blue glacier pattern, which must be seen in person to truly admire. It comes with a matching interchangeable titanium bracelet and a gray rope patterned textile strap. The neat thing about these watches is their caliber 29.25 movement, a combination of a Sellita SW300 base and a proprietary world-time module. The latter allows you to independently control the hour hand via the crown, as well as the second time zone via a hidden pusher at 10 o’clock, making it a perfect travel companion and explorer. The 0 Oxygen in the model name means there ...
With its first new motor in decades, the venerable Moonwatch is ready to rocket.
Hodinkee
We make this choice not because it is easy, but because it is hard!
Hodinkee
This year is the 60th anniversary of the Speedmaster, and you can bet we're going to be talking about it from now until December 31. There's no way Omega lets this one slip by without some serious fanfare and some awesome watches. Hot on the heels of its latest release, the limited edition Speedmaster "Speedy Tuesday," Omega has decided to announce another Speedmaster, this time in the automatic range. Meet the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Automatic Master Chronometer.
At 7 p.m. tonight we may enter a new era of collecting for the Omega Speedmaster. Christie's New York will host its first thematic nighttime sale of watches with this 50 lot homage to the Moonwatch, and we will certainly be there to tell you all about it. The undisputed top lot of the sale is lot number 3, a true first series Speedmaster, reference 2915-1. As you've heard in our Reference Points video on the Speedmaster, and over the years here on the 'Dink, the 2915 Speedmaster is without question the holy grail of Speedy collecting, the watch from which a legend was created. A full-spec 2915-1 is indeed a very rare thing, and here we'll take a quick hands-on look at this special watch.
SJX Watches
Originally introduced 12 years ago, Blancpain’s Villeret Chinese Calendar was the first serially-produced wristwatch to feature this specific calendar. To mark the start of the new year, the brand unveils the Villeret Traditional Chinese Calendar “Year of the Wood Dragon“. Featuring both the Chinese and Gregorian calendar, the limited edition is presented in an unusual combination of green enamel and rose gold, a first for the model. Initial thoughts Though it is not longer unique, the Villeret Chinese Calendar was the first of its kind at launch in 2012, making it a landmark for Blancpain. However, the aesthetic went unchanged for all of that time, so a new dial is certainly welcome. While watch brands can often iterate a model too often, Blancpain certainly wasn’t guilty of that here. The new model is more striking than its predecessors. The dial departs from the white enamel that’s been standard for the model since the beginning. Though green is an unusual choice, it suits the complication well as it evokes the colour of jade, which is also thematically congruent with the theme. While it is good thing to see this watch with a new dial colour, it would have been even better to see an upgrade to the movement in some way, as the calibre has been unchanged since its introduction. While the movement is still impressive and complicated, it is big. In fact, a significant mechanical upgrade could be retaining the exact same calendar functions, but in a smaller or thin...
Time+Tide
Standing out in a sea of microbrands is hard, and not always done right. Here are some brands that make it look easy.The post 5 microbrands that get design right appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
The concept of minimalism has become an attractive idea in our modern world of excess. For many, the term has been elevated to a point where it embodies a lifestyle of drawing bold lines betweeb what is deemed necessary and what is superfluous. Still, the term tends to get thrown around loosely; often, describing an object or process as "minimalist" seems to indicate an absence of thought put into it. Among the areas where the idea of minimalism is best expressed is through the world of industrial design and watches. Watches, despite not being necessary tools at they level they once were, are still objects whose design needs to be in service of a specific function. When these worlds of aesthetics and utility meet in an exceptionally clean and legible fashion, the pinnacle of horological minimalism is achieved; it's not less for the sake of less, but the least possible to do the job. In this buying guide, we have compiled a list of the best minimalist watches that should be on your radar. The degree to which each of these pieces sustains the levels of minimalist principles previously mentioned vary, but all of them succeed to a point in their approach to tackling their inherent function. A Few Ground Rules We are not going to be able to cover every watch in the industry but plan to add to this list in the future. Secondly, the idea of what constitutes something as “minimalist” is subjective, however, we will be using the themes previously addressed as wel...
Worn & Wound
G-Shocks, with all their usual bells and whistles, have always been statement watches. From the simplest 2100 or 5600 series to today’s highlight, the MGTB series, Casio G-Shocks are designed to demonstrate strength with some attitude. Leaning into the boldness of the designs is one of the most enjoyable ways to interact and consider watches that you don’t see every day. In today’s lineup, maximalism and being outside of the box are the name of the game. We’re not sure exactly what “MGTB” stands for, but we wouldn’t be surprised if it was something like “Mega Tremendous Giant Big..”, well, you get the point. Make a real impact and check out these three G-Shocks right here in the Windup Watch Shop. As always, we invite you to join our Rewards Program to earn points and save with every purchase. G-Shocks, with all their usual bells and whistles, have always been statement watches. From the simplest 2100 or 5600 series to today’s highlight, the MGTB series, Casio G-Shocks are designed to demonstrate strength with some attitude. Leaning into the boldness of the designs is one of the most enjoyable ways to interact and consider watches that you don’t see every day. In today’s lineup, maximalism and being outside of the box are the name of the game. We’re not sure exactly what “MGTB” stands for, but we wouldn’t be surprised if it was something like “Mega Tremendous Giant Big..”, well, you get the point. Make a real impact and check out these t...
Teddy Baldassarre
By definition, watches, no matter whatever else they might do in addition, are made to tell time. As a rule, the vast majority of watches do this in analog fashion with the use of two rotating hands, one for the hour, the other for the minute, often with an additional hand to track the running seconds. But every so often, you’ll run across the proverbial exception that proves the rule - a timepiece whose design is so radical, so outside the mainstream in design, that at first glance (sometimes even at the second or third) it appears that you can’t read the time on it at all. Even most of these avant-garde pieces, however, have been designed with the purpose of timekeeping in mind, even if this basic function is overshadowed or reduced to an aesthetic afterthought by the more spectacular elements the watch offers. Here is a selection of 10 very interesting watches (actually, nine watches and one example of high-end wrist-worn art), most of which actually do tell you the time - as long as you know how to read them. F.P. Journe FFC F.P. Journe founder Francois-Paul Journe teamed up with legendary Godfather director Francis Ford Coppola to conceptualize and produce the original FFC watch, a unique piece in a tantalum case that fetched $4.93 million at the 2021 Only Watch auction, becoming the highest-selling F.P. Journe watch in the indie brand’s nearly 25 years of existence. Journe added a platinum-cased model to its regular collection in 2023 with the same visual...
Worn & Wound
Godzilla, as he does from time to time, is having a moment. Godzilla Minus One was an unexpected hit in theaters at the end of last year, and as the first Godzilla film from Toho Co. studios to break through in America in years, it has some fans discovering a different side of the King of the Monsters. The Toho films, going back decades to the original Godzilla movies of the 1950s, have generally been a little more character driven and subtle than the bombastic, special effects laden American films. And a new Godzilla themed watch from Citizen is similarly subtle. It doesn’t beat you over the head (or…breathe fire at you) with Godzilla references, but it’s still clearly inspired by the iconic movie monster. It makes perfect sense for the Citizen Eco-Drive Professional Diver 300 to be the platform for a new Godzilla watch – the dive watch has long been known as the “Ecozilla” to collectors, and Citizen is happy to play up the connection. The watch arrives in a year that’s important to both Godzilla and Citizen, as each has a milestone birthday to celebrate: Godzilla turns 70, and Citizen marks the 100th anniversary of their first watch this year. The dial and bezel assembly of the new Godzilla piece feature a camo pattern that’s meant to recall the scales of Godzilla’s skin, and you’ll also find very small renditions of Godzilla within the pattern itself. There are two dial variants being offered, one in a classic black and another in a more in-your-...
Worn & Wound
If anyone thought brands might slow down when it comes to collaborative limited editions in 2024, the releases that are popping up in the first full week of the year would seem to disprove that notion. To that end, Bamford has just announced their first new release of the year, a new spin on their popular GMT format made in partnership with the artist and designer known as Jeremyville. The Bamford London x Jeremyville Limited Edition GMT is whimsical way to start the new year, featuring a well known character from the larger Jeremyville universe. The Bamford GMT has proven to be a great platform for character watches – we saw not one, but two Snoopy GMTs released in the last few years – and this new release finds the Jeremyville “Earth” character taking center stage. If you’re not familiar with Jeremyville’s art, a brief primer is in order. Jeremyville’s art has gained popularity over the course of twenty years, and is both the moniker of the artist himself and the fictional world his characters inhabit. The themes expressed in his art are nearly universally positive, with a real focus on community and empathy, so a collaboration at the beginning of a new year, a time when everyone seems focused on positive change, makes a lot of sense. The dial of the limited edition features the Earth character extending two arms, one of which is an hour hand (and displays a peace sign) and other is the minute hand (with fingers crossed). The GMT hand is represented by ...
Monochrome
For more than 30 years, Nomos has been part of the monumental effort to resurrect the German watchmaking tradition that once thrived in the Glashütte region in the easternmost part of the country. The region is home to a dozen or so brands, from relatively affordable names like Union Glashütte and Nomos to ultra-high-end like A. […]
SJX Watches
Continuing with its occasional special editions to celebrate the Chinese Lunar New Year, IWC has just released the Portugieser Chronograph “Year of the Dragon” to mark honour the Year of the Wood Dragon commencing in early 2024. This limited edition is essentially the classic Portugieser Chronograph Ref. 3716 but with a striking burgundy dial featuring gilt numerals and hands. Initial thoughts Burgundy dials on the Portugieser stand out as demonstrated by last year’s Portugieser Automatic 40, so it was inevitable to see it on the Portugieser Chronograph. The fact that this is a limited edition isn’t a big deal since IWC does a fair number of limited editions. But this specific watch, however, does look good. Whilst the design remains identical to the original, this has all of the dial elements in either gold-plating or powder-gilt print, which are more visually complementary than the combination of gold and black found on the silver dial of the standard steel model. The new look incurs an extra charge of US$950 in comparison to the standard production model, culminating in a retail price of US$9,350. While not a great deal by any means, it’s a reasonable premium, given the new dial and commemorative rotor. However, it is a limited edition of 1,000 watches, a substantial number given IWC’s scale, so the brand should have either reduced the premium or edition size to boost the appeal. The Portugieser Automatic 40 “Year of the Rabbit” from 2022. Image – IWC ...
Welcome to episode 71 of A Week in Watches. To make it a tradition this is a special episode, or rather, part of one of a special two-parter cleverly titled “A Year in Watches.” Yes, we’re going to take a look back at big moments and releases from 2023. As you’d expect, there’s a lot to cover, so we’re doing the “big brands” in this episode – think Omega, Rolex, and Tudor – and micros and indies in the next. Naturally, there still was too much to cover, so we focused on big launches from Watches & Wonders, what Rolex was up to (they did some weird stuff in 2023, especially for them), and then Seiko, who had a particular focus this year. If you enjoy the episode, please do like and subscribe. This week’s episode was brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop. The best way to start the new year is a new watch. Head over to WindupWatchShop.com to check out new watches, limited editions, accessories, EDC, clocks, and more. The holidays are over, it’s time to get yourself something nice. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 71: A Year in Watches 2023 – Rolex, Tudor, Seiko, and More! appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Monochrome
Dials can come in all sorts of colours and decorative patterns, but one specific style that always seems to stand out more is the gradient dial. Also referred to as fumé or dégradé, the concept is fairly simple. You start with a certain colour in the middle and gradually darken it towards the edge. More often […]
Teddy Baldassarre
The Patek Philippe Aquanaut is one of the younger members in Patek Philippe’s historic family of timepieces but it has already gained an avid following and represents to many collectors the most accessible entrée into the Swiss watchmaker’s luxurious universe. Here is everything you need to know about the Aquanaut, from its origins to its current status as a versatile and wide-ranging collection. A History of Watchmaking Milestones Since its founding in 1839 in Geneva, Patek Philippe has been a leader in high watchmaking, pioneering many complications and design elements that are now ubiquitous throughout the watch industry. Polish watchmakers Antoine Norbert de Patek and Francois Czapek partnered to form the original company, Patek, Czapek, & Cie.; French horologist Jean Adrien Philippe, who invented the keyless winding and setting system still standard on watches today, joined in 1845, and the Genevan manufacture has been known as Patek Philippe ever since. Among its many horological milestones are the first annual calendar watch and the first wristwatches with perpetual calendars and split-seconds chronographs. In 1932, brothers Jean and Henri Stern acquired Patek Philippe and the same year launched the watch that would become its signature, the Calatrava (above), inspired by the ancient Calatrava cross that had served as the maison’s logo since 1887. The following year, Patek Philippe made timekeeping history when it commissioned a record-setting complicated ...
Hodinkee
Here are three truly independent watches, each for under $15,000 and each with something that sets it far apart from the competition. Which will come out on top?
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