Hodinkee
Hands-On: Juicy, This Defy With Diamonds!
I wouldn't say it saved my life. But it definitely got me through COVID. And I liked it way more than I thought I would.
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Hodinkee
Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Explorer Guide
The Rolex Explorer is in many ways the quintessential dressy tool watch from Rolex’s Oyster Perpetual collection - less flashy than the GMT-Master, less bulky than the Submariner, while still rooted, like those two models, in a history of adventure and discovery. While it has changed very little since the 1950s, today’s Rolex Explorer is the culmination of many decades of aesthetic and technical evolution, guided by a watchmaker for whom the subtlest details make all the difference in the world to its avid legions of fans. Underpinning the Explorer: Oyster Case and Perpetual Caliber The Rolex Explorer, like all Oyster Perpetual timepieces in Rolex’s Professional collection, is an expression of two technical milestones that Rolex and its visionary founder Hans Wisdorf contributed to watchmaking history. The first is the so-called Oyster case, developed in 1926, which revolutionized the construction of watch cases with its dustproof, waterproof, hermetically sealed structure, secured by a threaded caseback and a crown that screwed tightly into the case. In 1931, Rolex made history again with the creation of its first “Perpetual” movement (below), whose self-winding mechanism was driven by an oscillating rotor. The marriage of these two inventions gave rise to the “Oyster Perpetual” line of timepieces that remain at the heart of Rolex’s collection today, beginning with the Datejust in 1945 and coming to full fruition with the tool-oriented, yet still luxuri...
Time+Tide
“They wanted $50K, I gave them $2M” - Jean-Claude Biver on how he got Bond for Omega
If you haven’t been watching or listening to the About Efffing Time (AET) podcast, co-hosted by Adrian Barker of Bark & Jack, George Bamford of Bamford Watch Department, and our very own Andrew McUtchen, well… it is about effing time you did. Each bi-weekly episode revolves around a dedicated topic, and is followed by a … ContinuedThe post “They wanted $50K, I gave them $2M” – Jean-Claude Biver on how he got Bond for Omega appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Hamilton’s digital darling has a new green display
First released in a gold and red variant echoing the 1970s original, the PSR has seen numerous iterations over the last two years. We covered two blacked-out models at the start of the year, one of which had close ties to another reboot – the Matrix franchise. The new Hamilton PSR with a green hybrid … ContinuedThe post Hamilton’s digital darling has a new green display appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
How the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton changed my perception of openworking
The human brain is a curious thing. Having written many a review and introducing post, I feel like I’ve become increasingly more selective about the type of watch I really like. While my interests evolved, one constant has been my aloofness towards skeletonisation. Then the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton happened, and completely blew me … ContinuedThe post How the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton changed my perception of openworking appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
A Week On The Wrist: With The Neomatik 41 Update, NOMOS Puts A Ring On It
Join us in marveling at that clever date ring. Design nerds and date-window haters, this one's for you.
Hodinkee
Talking Watches: With Culinary Icon Emeril Lagasse, Bam!
Kicking it up a notch with one of the '90s most famous chefs and his son, EJ.
Hodinkee
Buying, Selling, & Collecting: The Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5060A: The '90s Start Of Something New (Kind Of)
The dawn of the Aquanaut and its dominance of casual versatility.
Time+Tide
I spent $35 on a digital LED watch that had no right being this good: The Armitron Griffy
In a world where prices seem to climb in a never-ending upward spiral, it’s nice when you run across something that, against all odds, defies economic trends and sheer logic with its value. But here’s the Armitron Griffy, a fun and funky little gem of a retro LED watch, with a build quality that belies … ContinuedThe post I spent $35 on a digital LED watch that had no right being this good: The Armitron Griffy appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Ten big watch beauties under $10k for those with large wrists
As Zach Blass stated in his recent article, size does truly matter. Yet in our cases, we represent opposite sides of the spectrum. Where Zach is a staunch proponent of those with slender wrist, I represent those with large wrists who both love and appreciate a big watch. We had our moment in the early … ContinuedThe post Ten big watch beauties under $10k for those with large wrists appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Jennifer Aniston has a far better watch collection than you do
Jennifer Aniston doesn’t need to impress anybody. A working television and film actress since the late 1980s (and more recently, a producer/director), she’s one of the most famous women in the world. She’s a deft comedic actress (including her role in one of my favourites, Office Space), and adept in serious dramatic roles as well. … ContinuedThe post Jennifer Aniston has a far better watch collection than you do appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Seiko Presage SPB293 is the essence of Japanese porcelain mastery
The Seiko Presage line has long been a great value proposition. From the evergreen Cocktail Time range, the patterned Sharp Edge to this, the Craftsmanship collection and their porcelain dials, there’s plenty to choose from. The latest in the collection, comes with an entire storyline as well, taking you back to the heart of Japanese … ContinuedThe post The Seiko Presage SPB293 is the essence of Japanese porcelain mastery appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Heures Florales Cerisier: A Perpetually Blooming Microcosm Of Floral Gears
The Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Heures Florales is first and foremost about being a piece of mechanical art, reminiscent of MB&F;, only entirely realized for lovers of nature, precious stones, and poetry. Telling the time is secondary, but that doesn't make it any less horologically stupendous.
Time+Tide
Dress watches that are unlikely streetwear champions
We’ve all seen iced-out Royal Oaks and Datejusts on the wrists of Supreme-donning hypebeasts, but every once in a while, we’re surprised by the flash of a slim, two-handed piece hiding underneath oversized cuffs. While there is certainly a predominant brand in the sector of streetwear dress watches, I firmly believe that there are other … ContinuedThe post Dress watches that are unlikely streetwear champions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Seiko Turtle: The Perfect Affordable Diver Or Not Worth Your Time?
A detailed hands-on review of the iconic Seiko Turtle, featuring original photos, specs, pricing, and a rundown of all features.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Franc Vila FVF1 C2 Tourbillon Superligero
Short for “Franc Vila Founder”, FVF is a tale of redemption. Founded by the namesake designer, FVF is the second act of the Spanish watch designer, one he embarked on after his first went off the rails as many independent watch brands tend to do. FVF’s inaugural watch is the FVF1 C2 Tourbillon Superligero. It’s an original look and at a glance there’s nothing linking it to the creations of the original Franc Vila brand – a good thing in my estimation. But look closely and hints of the earlier designs emerge. Most importantly the FVF1 reveals itself as an impressively executed watch – the movement has an interesting construction, excellent finishing, and an original aesthetic. Mr Vila has made his comeback in style. NB: The watch pictured is a prototype that’s been worn so it shows wear. The FVF1 has a flying tourbillon, roller day indicator, day and night display, and a 100-hour power reserve Rising from the ashes Born in Valencia but now a longtime resident of Switzerland, Mr Vila founded his namesake brand in 2005 and rode the wave that buoyed modern, flamboyant independent watchmaking for the next decade or so. Propelled by Mr Vila’s convivial personality, Franc Vila became one of the hot brands of the era. During those heady days, it could sell several dozen tourbillons and minute repeaters a year, making it one of the top clients of now-defunct complications specialist BNB Concept. A classic from the original Franc Vila brand, the Tourbillon Planèta...
Time+Tide
HANDS ON: Is this green Omega Seamaster 300 the most attractive ever?
Green, green, oh… green. In 2021, green was the undisputed colour of the year with every watch manufacture under the sun presenting a design in the hue. Sure, you can’t go wrong with a black or white dial – their versatility is unmatched. But collectors need colour to liven up their watch boxes, and even … ContinuedThe post HANDS ON: Is this green Omega Seamaster 300 the most attractive ever? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Could this be the future of the Powermatic 80?
If you spend any time reading Time+Tide, or are generally interested in the entry-level luxury end of the market, you would’ve undoubtedly come across Swatch Group’s class centurion – the Powermatic 80. Initially manufactured as an evolution of the ETA 2824, and exclusively for Tissot, it can now be found in virtually every Swatch Group … ContinuedThe post Could this be the future of the Powermatic 80? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
Panerai Watches Guide
Tracing its roots to the 19th Century but bursting on the cultural scene on the cusp of the 21st, Panerai is an overnight success more than 100 years in the making. From humble and very utilitarian beginnings as a maker of tools and instruments for military divers in the 1930s, the Florentine watchmaker has become a powerhouse in the luxury sector, its unapologetically militaristic and indisputably masculine designs blurring the lines between tool watch and luxury item like few brands before or since. Here is the story of Officine Panerai and an overview of the modern Panerai watch collections. Guido Panerai and the First Radiomir Giovanni Panerai opened his watchmaking shop on Ponte Alle Grazie in Florence in 1860, and with the help of his son Leon Franceso built it into the ancestral Italian city’s first retailer of Swiss watches as well as its first watchmaking school. When Giovanni’s grandson Guido took over the business, near the turn of the century - and acquired his wife’s family business, which made tools and hardware for military use, including combat sights, compasses and depth gauges - it had become essentially two companies: Orologerie Svizzera, the shop that sold prestigious Swiss watch brands like Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, and Rolex; and Guido Panerai & Figlio, primarily a supplier of precision instruments and diving equipment to the Royal Italian Navy, or Regia Marina. As a military provider, Panerai recognized the need early on f...
Time+Tide
The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda chronograph is the essence of sporty luxury
Parmigiani Fleurier’s approach to design has taken a minimalist turn of late, most notably with the Tonda PF collection. Nevertheless, as a maker of luxury sports watches, they’re still striving to find ways to implement that athletic aesthetic into their pieces, and the ones we had the pleasure of looking at here give a great … ContinuedThe post The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda chronograph is the essence of sporty luxury appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Did Grand Seiko just give us the perfect two-watch collection?
A few days ago, as I sat in front of my watch box, a familiar thought crossed my mind. One I’ve already shared with you all before. And that’s the feeling that I own too many watches. Some may consider this a random thought but when 10 watches are staring back at you, it’s not … ContinuedThe post Did Grand Seiko just give us the perfect two-watch collection? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The CIGA Design Blue Planet Uses Terrain To Tell The Time
The first Chinese watch brand to win at the GPHG is a poetic and potent example of watchmaking's continued global evolution.
SJX Watches
Studio Underd0g Introduces the Strawberry & Cream
A watch designer by profession, Richard Benc started Studio Underd0g in early 2020 during the lockdown in London, having previously designed watches for Braun, the German consumer goods maker famed for its shavers and industrial design. His brand got its start with a series of affordable mechanical chronographs defined by a quirky aesthetic, including examples modelled on the colours of watermelon and mint-chocolate chip ice cream. Now Studio Underd0g has taken the covers off its latest two-counter chronograph, Strawberries & Cream. Inspired by the colours of the eponymous desert, the watch was born from chance meeting from Miguel Seabra, a Portuguese journalist specialising in tennis and watches. A fan of Studio Underd0g from its inception, Mr Seabra and the brand’s founder shared a joke last year about the perfect dessert while watching tennis in summer, resulting in this edition. Initial thoughts While salmon is a fad, mechanical watches for men in bright pink are uncommon, which immediately sets Strawberries & Cream apart from its competitors. Admittedly this not the first pink dial from Studio Underd0g – the first was the Watermelon watch in bright green and pink – but this is arguably the more appealing since the colours simple go better together while being more wearable. The price-to-quality ratio of the Strawberries & Cream is good. The watch gets most things right. Both the case and dial are basic but interesting nonetheless, while the movement is a gentl...
Time+Tide
HANDS ON: The Horage Supersede is an indy GMT that overdelivers on expectations
The watch space has arguably never been more exciting and this is largely due to the rise of independents and microbrands. To permeate through so many established brands, these smaller players know they need to deliver standout timepieces – whether through distinct aesthetics or exceptional value propositions. One independent that has definitely caught the attention of … ContinuedThe post HANDS ON: The Horage Supersede is an indy GMT that overdelivers on expectations appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The world’s most followed Tik Tok superstar Khaby Lame fittingly wears the lamest watch…
Social media has long overtaken our lives, but no platform today draws more eyeballs than Tik Tok. A Gen Z minefield of dances, duets, thirst traps, sketches, “stitches”, and shenanigans, Tik Tok racks up more views than any of its competitors. During the pandemic, one gentleman who became internationally viral was Khaby Lame. The Senegalese-Italian … ContinuedThe post The world’s most followed Tik Tok superstar Khaby Lame fittingly wears the lamest watch… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
One To Watch: Slow Down With This Unconventional Watch Brand
German brand Slow wants you to look at your wrist and wonder "what is time anyway?"
Time+Tide
Evolution of a collection: Nick Faldo’s watch box steers well clear of the rough
There wasn’t a dry eye in the house when golfing and broadcast legend Sir Nick Faldo recently ended his final broadcast as CBS’ golf analyst for the past 16 years. With a career that includes 41 tournament wins, including three British Open and three Masters victories, as well as captaining the European Ryder Cup team, … ContinuedThe post Evolution of a collection: Nick Faldo’s watch box steers well clear of the rough appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Urwerk UR-110 Bakelite: A Retro Sendoff For The UR-110 Collection
Not one to shy away from wild watches and unique combinations, in late 2021 Urwerk debuted a special tenth-anniversary UR-110 to commemorate the launch of the original UR-110 in 2011: the UR-100 Bakelite.
Deployant
New: Kurono Calendrier Type 1 is already sold out! We explore why.
The new release marks Kurono's success once again in textbook execution of a product launch. It begins with a great design, good pricing and finishes with great marketing. Riding on Hajime's popularity, the brand story benefits from the watchmaker's credibility. The design is classic and accessible, with finishing that is a bar above most in its segment. It also benefits from finding a niche in the USD1-4k segment, in a non-mass production vertical. Its limited production possibly limited by assembly and manufacturing capacity works ironically in its favor, to create scarcity.
Time+Tide
OPINION: Are publications hyping up “collapsing” watch prices?
For the last month every publication under the sun has seen a traffic gold-mine in the purported “collapse” in secondary pricing for “hype” watches from Rolex, Audemars Piguet, and Patek Philippe among others. Even we tackled the subject with our own reader-alluring doom and gloom headline. But, after fully digesting the situation, I am beginning … ContinuedThe post OPINION: Are publications hyping up “collapsing” watch prices? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.