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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

5 of the best watches released in 2020 under $3k, including Grand Seiko, Bulgari and Monta Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Bulgari Sep 29, 2020

5 of the best watches released in 2020 under $3k, including Grand Seiko, Bulgari and Monta

This has been a bountiful year for the horologically inclined, and full of surprises. We have gone shopping with the virtual Time+Tide gold credit card, and found what we think might be five of the best watches under $3kUSD in 2020. It is an eclectic selection, from established microbrands to tough divers and a flyweight … ContinuedThe post 5 of the best watches released in 2020 under $3k, including Grand Seiko, Bulgari and Monta appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Bovet Amadéo Fleurier 36 Miss Audrey: The World’s Most Versatile Ladies’ Watch, And One Of The Prettiest Quill & Pad
Bovet Sep 28, 2020

Bovet Amadéo Fleurier 36 Miss Audrey: The World’s Most Versatile Ladies’ Watch, And One Of The Prettiest

The flexibility of the beautiful Bovet Amadéo Fleurier 36 Miss Audrey makes it very appealing because in each configuration, the watches can be appreciated in a different way. The patented Amadéo case allows the watch to be used as a pendant, pocket, or wristwatch. And even as a small table clock! And those dials! And those beads! A must see.

Why the Grand Seiko SBGE253 could be a great one-watch collection Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGE253 could be Sep 28, 2020

Why the Grand Seiko SBGE253 could be a great one-watch collection

For many watch enthusiasts, a somewhat paradoxical feeling can begin to set in after collecting for a little while. The more watches you collect, buying and selling different pieces in the pursuit of the perfect collection, the more a quiet voice in the back of your head says, “What if you just have one watch … ContinuedThe post Why the Grand Seiko SBGE253 could be a great one-watch collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Glashütte Original Introduces the Alfred Helwig Tourbillon 1920 SJX Watches
Glashütte Original Introduces Sep 28, 2020

Glashütte Original Introduces the Alfred Helwig Tourbillon 1920

Invented in 1920 by German watchmaker Alfred Helwig, the flying tourbillon marks its 100th year anniversary this year. To commemorate the occasion, Glashütte Original – Helwig spent most of his career in Glashütte, including several decades teaching in the town’s watch school – has unveiled a watch featuring, unsurprisingly, a flying tourbillon. Limited to 25 pieces, the Alfred Helwig Tourbillon 1920 is pared-back on the front but smartly executed on the reverse, with the cal. 54-01 ticking away inside. Not only does it have an extra-long power reserve of 100 hours, the cal. 54-01 is finished to a high standard that is recognisably superior to earlier Glashütte Original tourbillon movements. A young Alfred Helwig and a scale model of his invention Initial thoughts This is the third tourbillon watch Glashütte Original has launched this year, after this and this. That’s a lot. Although Glashütte Original has had countless tourbillon models in its catalogue over the years, with most being fairly short-lived, what it really excels at are affordable, well-made watches like the Sixties. Compared to the tourbillons unveiled earlier in the year, both of which were decorated with extensive, floral engraving, the Tourbillon 1920 appears less elaborate – although the movement is finished very well, and very traditionally. The finishing does look excellent, but the US$135,000 price tag feels a bit steep for Glashütte Original. In comparison, the Senator Chronometer T...

Review: The Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5180/1R – No Skeletons In This Closet Deployant
Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref 5180/1R – Sep 28, 2020

Review: The Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5180/1R – No Skeletons In This Closet

Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5180/1R The Patek Philippe Calatrava is many things: elegant, dainty, simple, dressy, thin. One thing it is not, is exhibitionist – well, at least not until the Ref. 5180 came along. First available in white gold, Patek Philippe’s openworked wonder was, to say the least, polarising. But that didn’t stop theRead More

MICRO MONDAYS: Galvin – a female-founded Australian microbrand producing classic, curved crystal designs Time+Tide
Sep 27, 2020

MICRO MONDAYS: Galvin – a female-founded Australian microbrand producing classic, curved crystal designs

When life gave Finnish-born watchmaker of more than 10 years, Susan Galvin lemons, she made a refreshing glass of lemonade, donned a watchmakers coat, and began work on a company that is now ready to share the fruits of her labours. Galvin was made redundant due to a restructure back in March, and to make … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Galvin – a female-founded Australian microbrand producing classic, curved crystal designs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Hublot Meca-10 movement makes a move into the Spirit of Big Bang Meca-10 Black Magic Time+Tide
Hublot Meca-10 movement makes Sep 27, 2020

HANDS-ON: The Hublot Meca-10 movement makes a move into the Spirit of Big Bang Meca-10 Black Magic

A dark brooding presence on the wrist is causing infatuation today, with a vast power reserve and the unexpected lightness of high-tech ceramic. The new Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Meca-10 Black Magic is a futuristic tonneau-shaped timepiece that surprises and assures you in equal measure, with its lightweight tank-like solidity and industrial fascination. A … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Hublot Meca-10 movement makes a move into the Spirit of Big Bang Meca-10 Black Magic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

On Scene: Watches & Wonders Shanghai SJX Watches
Sep 26, 2020

On Scene: Watches & Wonders Shanghai

The second week of September saw one of the few large-scale watch fairs of the year take place by the Huangpu River in Shanghai. With the COVID-19 pandemic forcing the cancellation of the world’s two most important watch fairs, Baselworld and SIHH (as well as the permanent demise of Baselworld), Watches & Wonders Shanghai (W&W;) was staged at the West Bund Art Center. As a watch journalist, I used to fly to Switzerland twice a year for the fairs – SIHH in January followed by Baselworld around March – but this year the event came to my home city for the first time. Did W&W; live up to expectations? How has the event changed as it crossed the world? Green and good to go The difference between W&W; and the traditional Swiss fairs was apparent from the point of entry. Guests and journalists were no longer granted access with pass cards, the norm at the Swiss fairs since I can remember. Instead we received an invite email from the fair’s organiser Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH) prior to the event, requiring us to register online for a QR entry code. Security staff at the fair’s entrance scanned every visitor’s QR code, as well as our Suishen Code, a digital pass issued by the city authorities. Both an identification and health pass, the Suishen Code has allowed the government to combat the pandemic with rigorous efficiency; every city or province in China has its own health code – the primary reason why a watch fair with hundreds of visitors can take place...

INTRODUCING: The Bremont U-2 Blue is the fresh summer watch Australians (and the world) need right now Time+Tide
Bremont U-2 Blue Sep 26, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Bremont U-2 Blue is the fresh summer watch Australians (and the world) need right now

With Aussie summer approaching, it means beach and barbecue season has arrived – and the Bremont U-2 Blue is the perfect watch for either occasion. Whether timing a dive, or delicious food on the grill, the Bremont U-2 Blue is ready to take on summer fun in style. The case The watched is housed in … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Bremont U-2 Blue is the fresh summer watch Australians (and the world) need right now appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Frosted Gold Flying Tourbillon Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Frosted Sep 26, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Frosted Gold Flying Tourbillon

Editor’s note: In the latest episode of Watch & Chill, we happen on the subject of Royal Oak Concept models for women, and after again seeing the footage of this extraordinary stepped dial sparkle machine, we had to give it its own post, and exploration.  Ask the average person what the purpose of a watch … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Frosted Gold Flying Tourbillon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The breakaway Seiko of 2020 is this affordable, classic dive watch for under $1500USD, the SPB149J Time+Tide
Seiko Sep 25, 2020

The breakaway Seiko of 2020 is this affordable, classic dive watch for under $1500USD, the SPB149J

Editor’s note: We knew the reception would be good, for lots of reasons noted below. We suspected the reception might be great, as the watch has direct lineage to Seiko’s first-ever dive watch, the 62MAS. But, honestly, we didn’t expect the sheer level of excitement that it generated. So, we’ve reprised the video post to … ContinuedThe post The breakaway Seiko of 2020 is this affordable, classic dive watch for under $1500USD, the SPB149J appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Why I bought the Hanhart x The Rake & Revolution Limited Edition Bronze 417 Chronograph Time+Tide
Casio nally we’ll throw Sep 25, 2020

Why I bought the Hanhart x The Rake & Revolution Limited Edition Bronze 417 Chronograph

Editor’s note: Occasionally, we’ll throw to members of the team to explain themselves when it comes to their endless watch purchases. And on that note, if you wish to work in this team, you must be endlessly purchasing watches of some kind or another. Zach mentioned a couple of weeks ago that he was one … ContinuedThe post Why I bought the Hanhart x The Rake & Revolution Limited Edition Bronze 417 Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Audemars Piguet’s Michael Friedman and Eric Ku go deep on the history of the Royal Oak Concept while exploring two brand new releases Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet s Michael Friedman Sep 25, 2020

Audemars Piguet’s Michael Friedman and Eric Ku go deep on the history of the Royal Oak Concept while exploring two brand new releases

Lightning sometimes strikes [the same channel] twice. This time last week, we brought you one of the most scholarly and in-depth conversations I’ve ever been privy to in my time as a watch journalist, in the form of a video in our Watch & Chill series over on our YouTube channel. The main speakers were … ContinuedThe post Audemars Piguet’s Michael Friedman and Eric Ku go deep on the history of the Royal Oak Concept while exploring two brand new releases appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Pack it up, 2020 has its wildest watch. Prepare your eyes for the blackmobile that is the Jacob & Co. Twin Turbo Furious Bugatti La Montre Noire Time+Tide
Jacob & Co. Sep 24, 2020

Pack it up, 2020 has its wildest watch. Prepare your eyes for the blackmobile that is the Jacob & Co. Twin Turbo Furious Bugatti La Montre Noire

In a tribute to the most expensive car ever produced, we have the Jacob & Co. Twin Turbo Furious Bugatti La Montre Noire.The post Pack it up, 2020 has its wildest watch. Prepare your eyes for the blackmobile that is the Jacob & Co. Twin Turbo Furious Bugatti La Montre Noire appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Omega Introduces the Seamaster Diver 300 M Chronograph Gold Titanium Tantalum SJX Watches
Omega Introduces Sep 24, 2020

Omega Introduces the Seamaster Diver 300 M Chronograph Gold Titanium Tantalum

Best known as the watch worn by Pierce Brosnan playing James Bond, the Omega Seamaster Diver 300 M made its debut in 1993. But the blue-on-blue “Bond” model was not the flagship of the line. That distinction went to a chronograph composed of three metals – gold, titanium, and tantalum – an exotic and expensive combination two decades ago. The tri-metal combination (the original was the ref. 2296.80 for anyone curious) made a comeback as a time-only watch for the 25th anniversary of the Seamaster 300 M two years ago. Now, Omega has finally revealed a truer homage to the original, the Seamaster Diver 300 M Chronograph Gold Titanium Tantalum, which stays to the aesthetics of its inspiration but refined to be more contemporary and technically advanced. Initial thoughts The original version of the tri-metal chronograph isn’t the best known variant of the Seamaster – because it was extremely expensive for the period and sold poorly – so when the time-only variant debuted in 2018, the combination of metal was rather novel. The new chronograph feels exactly like that – it is handsome and modern, but like the 1993 original, it is very expensive. In fact, it is a lot more expensive, all things considered. Priced at a little under US$20,000, the new chronograph is significantly more expensive than its steel-and-gold counterparts – by a factor of 50%. While the price tag partially justified by the unusual material combination and good looks, the new Seamaster Chr...

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife Watch: Cutting A Sharp Edge Quill & Pad
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Sep 23, 2020

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife Watch: Cutting A Sharp Edge

The 'Kingsman' feature-film series is based on comic books of the same name and stars a special breed of British secret service operatives. Stylish as they are, these Savile Row agents also obviously need watches to match their bespoke suits. In honor of the forthcoming third film in the series, Jaeger-LeCoultre and Mr. Porter launch the exceptional Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife Watch. And it is bound to wow you with its cutting-edge profile!

IWC Pilot Watch Automatic Top Gun Review WatchAdvice
Ming ly positive Sep 23, 2020

IWC Pilot Watch Automatic Top Gun Review

I have made a promise to myself for this review, absolutely no cheesy 80’s movie quotes for this review. The IWC Top Gun pilots watch is after all, not associated or affiliated with any Tom Cruise movie whatsoever. This watch is part of an ongoing collaboration with the Strike tactics instructor program of the US navy. A partnership that began back in 2007, in which IWC manufacture watches specially designed from robust materials.  The use of alternative case materials is a focal point of all the Top Gun watches from IWC, with models being constructed from titanium, ceramic and a hybrid paring of the two; Ceratanium. The use of tougher metals comes from the watches needing to meet the specific requirements of elite jet fighter pilots, those ‘Top Gun’s’ if you will. Recently I got the chance to go hands on with the latest three hander in the Top Gun series, the automatic pilots watch in Ceramic. My initial impressions of the watch were overwhelmingly positive. At 41mm x 11.4mm, the ceramic cased timepiece really appealed to me visually. I have never really been a huge fan of traditional Flieger style watches, the dials always felt so cluttered and heavy. Of course I understand the need for the traditional type A and type B style Flieger watches. Flieger style pieces were born of necessity and practicality during the second World War. Pilots needed large dials and indices for precisely timing flights and bombing runs, the watches therefore bore oversized hands, huge...

Up Close: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife Watch SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Sep 22, 2020

Up Close: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife Watch

Conceived specifically for The King’s Man film, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife Watch is modelled on a 1907 pocket watch and entirely fitting for a film about a fictional spy agency located in a Savile Row tailor’s shop. The watch was launched to coincide with the scheduled premiere of the third instalment in the Kingsman franchise, but the movie was postponed to early 2021, though the watch was not. Initial thoughts The Kingsman Knife Watch caught my attention the JLC announced it not too long ago; it was obviously a classically-styled watch but with enough of a twist to make it interesting. The Kingsman tie up was a point to note, but not particularly compelling. Despite its qualities, the watch was expensive. Examining it in the metal confirms my initial reaction. Despite being simple, the Knife Watch is quirky and compelling. It also sits relatively well on the wrist, despite extreme flatness and the faux bow at 12 o’clock. But the execution of the dial falls short – the printing isn’t neatly done and also feels too flat. Even with the constraints of a ultra-thin watch, it should be better, especially given the price. And the price is a big one. This costs double the currently-available Master Ultra Thin Small Seconds (which is automatic and an inexact comparison), and 55% more than the Master Ultra Thin 1907 that was discontinued in 2017. Even being a small run of 100 watches, the Knife Watch feels too expensive for what it is. Razo...

INTRODUCING: The critics were wrong, and the Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time flies again, this time as the 7234G-001 Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Sep 22, 2020

INTRODUCING: The critics were wrong, and the Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time flies again, this time as the 7234G-001

The Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time in its first iteration, ref 5524G-001 definitely caught our attention when it was released. We called it the most confusing watch of Baselworld 2015. Patek Philippe had anticipated the sceptical reaction, and the opening line of their press release about the watch sought to quickly legitimise it – referring to … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The critics were wrong, and the Patek Philippe Calatrava Pilot Travel Time flies again, this time as the 7234G-001 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MB&F; Introduces the LM Split Escapement ‘Eddy Jaquet’ SJX Watches
Casio nally collaborations Sep 22, 2020

MB&F; Introduces the LM Split Escapement ‘Eddy Jaquet’

Conceived as an imagined, 19th-century take on MB&F;’s uber-modern, sci-fi inspired Horological Machines, the Legacy Machines (LM) draw inspiration from the aesthetic of the era – and the works of Jules Verne – to create a steampunk-meets-classical-watchmaking timepiece. Now the spirit of the LM have been made tangible with the LM Split Escapement ‘Eddy Jaquet’.  The series is limited to just eight watches in red gold, each featuring a dial depicting a scene from Verne’s novels, rendered in minute detail with the hand engraving of Eddy Jaquet, a Swiss artisan who has worked with an array of watchmakers but perhaps best known for his work on Voutilainen watches. Initial thoughts The new LM Split Escapement (SE) is a departure from the typical MB&F; watch, which usually emphasises technical aspects, like movement construction or finishing, or case design and materials (and occasionally collaborations with contemporary artists). Instead the new LM SE is all about artisanal craft, something that is familiar territory for independent watchmakers like Voutilainen but novel for MB&F;. Though such artistically decorated timepieces are not a traditional strength of MB&F;, the result is an attractive watch. The engraving is impressively done, and avoids appearing monochromatic thanks to its depth. The intricate, pictorial engraving also complements the style of the LM, making the whole greater than the sum of the parts. In fact, it can be argued that the original LM SE w...

The 5 best Longines watches released in 2020 (in a very good year) Time+Tide
Longines watches released Sep 22, 2020

The 5 best Longines watches released in 2020 (in a very good year)

This year has been a big one for Longines - for a couple of reasons. They have continued down the purist pathway of vintage reissues through their Heritage collection, as well as continuing to build their other enthusiast-favourite families such as the Record and HydroConquest collections. But the biggest news from Longines in 2020 was the … ContinuedThe post The 5 best Longines watches released in 2020 (in a very good year) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Seiko is donating the proceeds of one Presage SRQ033J1 Porco Rosso Limited Edition which you can buy here Time+Tide
Seiko Sep 21, 2020

VIDEO: Seiko is donating the proceeds of one Presage SRQ033J1 Porco Rosso Limited Edition which you can buy here

For fans of the prolific Japanese animation studio Studio Ghibli, the name Porco Rosso will be familiar to you. He’s the ace biplane pilot who learned the art of flying in World War I, before being turned into a pig and then, turning his skills to fighting pirate crime. He has legions of fans around … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Seiko is donating the proceeds of one Presage SRQ033J1 Porco Rosso Limited Edition which you can buy here appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang Camo Yohji Yamamoto is everything that’s great about the brand, in a watch Time+Tide
Hublot Big Bang Camo Yohji Sep 21, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang Camo Yohji Yamamoto is everything that’s great about the brand, in a watch

Hublot’s Big Bang series this autumn is like an unstoppable tank, with this last month being marked by strong new editions of Big Bang and the Spirit of Big Bang. But no watch has quite captured all that the brand has become quite like this urban warrior, with an almost imperious level of quality and … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang Camo Yohji Yamamoto is everything that’s great about the brand, in a watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: A detailed tour of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s 2020 releases with the CEO, Catherine Rénier Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre s 2020 releases Sep 21, 2020

VIDEO: A detailed tour of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s 2020 releases with the CEO, Catherine Rénier

There are certain experiences we have on a regular basis at Time+Tide that you may not be aware of, or have shared in any way. Yes, even you, hardcore fans. COVID-19 has made it possible for us to bring you in on it. It’s the presentation of the watches. The way we learn about them. … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: A detailed tour of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s 2020 releases with the CEO, Catherine Rénier appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Bernhard Lederer Central Impulse Chronometer*: A Superlative Watch But Is It Really A Chronometer? Quill & Pad
Sep 20, 2020

Bernhard Lederer Central Impulse Chronometer*: A Superlative Watch But Is It Really A Chronometer?

According to Joshua Munchow, the Bernhard Lederer Central Impulse Chronometer is one of the most astounding pieces to be released in 2020, and when he first saw it on social media he actually gasped out loud. The more that he looked at it the more he fell in love with the style, the engineering, and the concept behind the movement. But he must ask: is it really a chronometer?