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Exhibition: ‘Musubi’ – 50 Years of Cartier in Japan SJX Watches
Cartier Jun 25, 2024

Exhibition: ‘Musubi’ – 50 Years of Cartier in Japan

In 1974, Cartier opened its first boutique in Japan and now marks its 50th anniversary in the country with MUSUBI – Half-Century of Cartier in Japan and Beyond: an Everlasting Dialogue of Beauty and Art, an exhibition of jewels, watches, and objet d’art taking place at the Hyokeikan building in the Tokyo National Museum from June 12 to July 28, 2024. The theme of the event is 結び (musubi), which translates literally as “conclusion” but its constituent characters can mean “the power of the divine spirit is produced by being bound together.” Tokyo National Museum with the flag of the exhibition under its dome Taking place in the building’s two symmetrical wings, the exhibition will be presented in parallel narratives separated into two main sections: “Cartier and Japan, a Tribute to Art and Beauty” and “Fondation Cartier pour l’Art Contemporain and Japanese Artists, a Never-Ending Conversation.” The exhibition’s scenography was designed by Studio Adrien Gardère to display the heritage of Hyokeikan’s architecture, while illustrating Cartier’s tribute to Japanese culture. The design is notably inspired by Tokonoma and Sukiya, traditional styles of Japanese architecture, and reflects Cartier’s spirited connection with the country, utilising Japanese industrial scaffolding techniques to stage all the artists on show. The section of the exhibition displaying “Cartier and Japan, a Tribute to Art and Beauty.” The exhibition features 120 piece...

Hands-On With The New Anthracite Armin Strom One Week Manufacture Edition Fratello
Armin Strom One Week Manufacture Edition Jun 24, 2024

Hands-On With The New Anthracite Armin Strom One Week Manufacture Edition

We kick off this Tuesday morning with the world premiere of the new Armin Strom One Week Manufacture Edition. It is the follow-up to last year’s inaugural redesigned One Week First Edition, which was nothing short of impressive. Both watches celebrate Armin Strom’s debut in-house caliber from 2010 in a sleek, modern way. The ever-impressive […] Visit Hands-On With The New Anthracite Armin Strom One Week Manufacture Edition to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Grand Seiko SBGW305 Vs. King Seiko SJE089 Fratello
Grand Seiko SBGW305 Vs King Seiko Jun 23, 2024

Sunday Morning Showdown: Grand Seiko SBGW305 Vs. King Seiko SJE089

It’s Sunday morning, so grab a cup of coffee, and prepare for a showdown rooted in history. Most of you will know the story of Grand Seiko and King Seiko, which goes back over six decades. We decided to put two modern watches from them up against each other. Jorg picked the Grand Seiko SBGW305, […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Grand Seiko SBGW305 Vs. King Seiko SJE089 to read the full article.

Hands-On with the Delugs Integrated Rubber CTS Strap for the Tudor Black Bay 54 Worn & Wound
Tudor Black Bay 54 Jun 21, 2024

Hands-On with the Delugs Integrated Rubber CTS Strap for the Tudor Black Bay 54

In case you couldn’t tell, we’re fans of Tudor in these parts. Yeah, yeah, nothing new; everyone likes a Tudor, but man, even in head-to-head combat, it’s hard to find much fault with their watches. Well, I’ll tell you a secret: I do have an issue with them. It’s not a big issue, per se, but it’s not nothing, either. Here’s the deal: when you get one, you choose which strap you want, and that’s it. Want the rubber and the bracelet? You better buy two. Ok, perhaps that’s an exaggeration, but as far as Tudor’s website goes, you can’t order the straps separately. Maybe an AD can, but who’s got time for all that? Now, hear me out; the other thing is that they make very good bracelets. If you, like me, are prone to the occasional Black Bay purchase, you will choose the bracelet over the other options. But those other options, the rubber in particular, are just so damn nice. What’s a collector to do? Well, for Tudor Black Bay 54 owners, there’s a new solution from our friends in Singapore, Delugs. Rubber straps are all well and good, but there’s just something special about one meant for your watch. One fitted to the exact shape of the lugs for that modern, integrated look. Introducing the Delugs Integrated Rubber CTS straps for various watches, including the BB54. Delugs was kind enough to send one over for some sweat-errr– road testing, so here are my thoughts. Despite the setup, I’m actually not a huge rubber strap person. I’m not a huge br...

Parmigiani Debuts the Tonda PF Automatic 36 mm Sunlit Ivory SHH Edition SJX Watches
Parmigiani Fleurier has just launched Jun 19, 2024

Parmigiani Debuts the Tonda PF Automatic 36 mm Sunlit Ivory SHH Edition

Parmigiani Fleurier has just launched the Tonda PF Automatic 36mm ‘Sunlit Ivory’ SHH Edition, a limited edition for Singapore retailer Sincere Fine Watches. More compact than the rest of the collection that ranges from 40 mm to 42 mm, its svelte dimensions are an answer to collectors’ calls for smaller watches, which is a positive development from both an ergonomic and aesthetic standpoint. Limited to 50 pieces, the watch will be available exclusively at Sincere Fine Watches and SHH boutiques across Southeast Asia. Initial thoughts Let’s get this out of the way: this is an integrated-bracelet luxury sport watch. But the Tonda PF, and this SHH edition specifically, is a thoughtfully conceived watch that deserves a second look despite the numerous offerings in this segment. Its appeal primarily comes down to the size and execution, which differentiates this from its peers. The sizing, in particular, is just about perfect. While 36 mm may sound small, the visual size is enlarged by the large dial opening, narrow bezel, and the integrated bracelet, giving it presence without bulk. Furthermore, the 8.6 mm case is thin enough to slip under a shirt cuff, but substantial enough to not feel dainty. There are also a number of well-considered details, such as the guilloché dial, platinum bezel, and no-date format, which plant the Tonda PF Sunlit Ivory firmly on the dressy end of the luxury sport watch spectrum. But the Tonda PF is still sporty – featuring a 4 Hz movement, ...

Introducing – MeisterSinger Releases Two Vibrant Unomat Limited Editions Monochrome
MeisterSinger Jun 18, 2024

Introducing – MeisterSinger Releases Two Vibrant Unomat Limited Editions

MeisterSinger hardly needs an introduction. This award-winning German brand is renowned for its distinctive single-hand time display design, which makes it instantly recognizable. The latest additions to the MeisterSinger lineup are blacked-out versions of the robust and solidly built Unomat series, featuring generous splashes of colour – with a twist. The two new Unomat watches […]

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Split-Seconds Chronograph Ultra-Thin: Restrained Glamour and Understated Excellence Quill & Pad
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Split-Seconds Chronogr... Jun 15, 2024

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Split-Seconds Chronograph Ultra-Thin: Restrained Glamour and Understated Excellence

Some watches are so perfect there isn't a thing you want to be changed about them. For Martin Green, this was the case with the Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Split-Seconds Chronograph Ultra-Thin Collection Excellence Platine. Apart from its name, which he thinks is decidedly too long. But a look through the display back more than makes up for that.

Taking A Sip Of Three Alluring New Seiko Presage Cocktail GMT Watches Fratello
Seiko Presage Cocktail GMT Watches Jun 14, 2024

Taking A Sip Of Three Alluring New Seiko Presage Cocktail GMT Watches

Seiko serves three new cocktail-inspired watches, and I am slightly concerned that going hands-on with all of them at once will lead to delirium. The new Seiko Presage Cocktail GMT watches come in outspoken “flavors.” There’s the SSK037 Skydiving in refreshing light blue, the whiskey-inspired SSK039 Rusty Nail, and the fruity SSK041 Acacia. What’s your […] Visit Taking A Sip Of Three Alluring New Seiko Presage Cocktail GMT Watches to read the full article.

Zenith Defy Revival A3648 Review Teddy Baldassarre
Zenith Jun 13, 2024

Zenith Defy Revival A3648 Review

There is no doubt that most enthusiasts think of the brand Zenith and picture, in their mind’s eye, a chronograph – a chronograph powered by the now storied El Primero automatic chronograph movement which debuted in 1969. Triple use of the word chronograph in one sentence notwithstanding, it punctuates the kind of watch associated with this powerhouse of a brand. And 1969 was a monumental year for automatic chronographs. But it was also the year Zenith introduced its punchy, ready for the 1970s, and decidedly orange dive watch: The Defy A3648. Yes, a Zenith diver was released the same year as the El Primero…and the latter clearly took off on a trajectory far different from that of its aquatic counterpart. Vintage Zenith A3648 from around the time of the watch's launch. Over the past decade or so, Zenith has proven itself to be unmatched in the watch game when it comes to revivals, homages, re-editions, whatever you like to call them (Zenith literally calls them “Revivals” so we will too). Some Zenith Revival models are modern riffs on vintage designs, with slight tweaks, while others are near 1:1 recreations. Think back to the Defy Revival models of the past two years, with both black and ruby dial options. Those were authentic recreations down to the vintage-style clasps (an under-looked component of homage, if you ask me!). At Watches & Wonders 2024, Zenith returned to the 1969 well and brought its spunky orange dive watch back to life in the form of the De...

Omega Unveils the MoonSwatch “Mission On Earth” Trio SJX Watches
Omega Unveils Jun 12, 2024

Omega Unveils the MoonSwatch “Mission On Earth” Trio

Following the MoonSwatch “Snoopy” released in late March, Swatch continues to grow its bestselling line with the MoonSwatch “Mission On Earth”, a trio of models dressed in eye-catching colours, including one inspired by the Speedmaster “Ultraman” and another by aventurine glass. Initial thoughts The Mission On Earth editions stand out from the rest of the MoonSwatch line-up, especially the Polar Lights and Lava models. Unlike earlier MoonSwatch models in muted colours, Polar Lights features a “starry” blue dial modelled on sparkly aventurine glass, while Lava is a nod to the historical Speedmaster “Ultraman” with its orange hand. The new models continue to be priced at US$270, making them the same value proposition as earlier versions – they are affordable but feel equally inexpensive. The continual new additions to the line, however, will inevitably diminish the desirability of the MoonSwatch. While this might disappoint some early adopters, it is a logical step for Swatch, since the MoonSwatch has boosted its business tremendously, while the brand has no other product that enjoys comparable demand. Earthbound The Mission on Earth collection is made up of three watches. All are similar to earlier MoonSwatch models, but the new trio incorporate a detail Speedmaster enthusiasts will appreciate: radially arranged numerals on the sub-dials, as found on the experimental Speedmasters made for the Alaska II and III projects commissioned by NASA. Inspired by...

First Look – Energising Summer Colours for the Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Skeleton Monochrome
Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Jun 12, 2024

First Look – Energising Summer Colours for the Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Skeleton

Rado is synonymous with high-tech ceramic, which is used to great effect on its sleek, geometric designs and vintage models alike. Rado’s 1962 Captain Cook dive watch, resurrected in 2017, was given a high-tech plasma ceramic makeover in 2021. Not only did it feature a ceramic case and bracelet, but its dial was also skeletonised […]

Seiko Expands their Astron Range with a Pair of Limited Editions Worn & Wound
Seiko Expands their Astron Range Jun 11, 2024

Seiko Expands their Astron Range with a Pair of Limited Editions

Seiko has recently released two references in their Astron GPS Solar collection. Both models, highlighting the beauty of the night sky, showcase not only the ever-evolving design elements of Seiko, but also the technical prowess of the Japanese brand. First on the list is the Seiko Astron SSH157J1, which has a classic design where the color choices for this watch can really pop. The titanium case is offset by a black ceramic bezel which, in turn, is complemented by the transparent light-blue molded dial, designed to reflect the starry sky and changes depending on the wearer’s wrist position.  The watch is equipped with a dual-curved sapphire crystal, providing clarity and scratch resistance. And at 43.3 mm, it’s a watch with presence that would still be great as part of your daily rotation. In contrast, the Seiko Astron SSJ027J1 is a bit more contemporary. Geometric cases have become more popular over the years and this reference is no exception, showing how a new design can be eye-catching without looking too ostentatious. The SSJ027J1 combines the same colorway as the SSH157J1 (titanium, light-blue, and black) in a more subtle way. This watch clocks in at 41.2mm, giving it some presence on the wrist as well. The SSH157J1 is powered by the Caliber 5X53 GPS Solar movement, which means the watch can adjust to the exact time anywhere in the world using GPS signals that the watch connects to throughout the day. The watch also features a perpetual calendar, automatic time...

Pastel Dials for the Parmigiani Tonda PF Sport Chronograph SJX Watches
Jun 10, 2024

Pastel Dials for the Parmigiani Tonda PF Sport Chronograph

After unveiling the Tonda PF “No Date” earlier this year, Parmigiani continues to expand its line of sports watches, now with the Tonda PF Sport Chronograph in pastel shades of grey as well a “Milano Blue”, while retaining the clou triangulaire guilloché. Milano Blue (left), Arctic Grey (middle), and London Grey (right) Initial thoughts  The Tonda PF Sport is a more elegant alternative to conventional sports chronographs. The guilloché dial is decorative but sporty with “panda” registers, while the case feels relatively slim. And the new dial colours add to the appeal, both by offering more variety and a less traditional palette. The changes are only cosmetic, with the dial, case, and PF070 movement remaining the same. Consequently, the price remains rightly unchanged at CHF29,700 – a fair value proposition especially considering the specs and construction of the PF070. New colourways The latest models are fundamentally new variants of the Tonda PF Sport Chronograph released last year. They retain the same clean styling, with silvered dials and contrasting registers, a look historically associated with motor racing-inspired chronographs. The dial includes the customary applied “PF” emblem at 12 and a date window between four and five. Although it contrasts against the dial, the date display is relatively discreet and coherent design-wise. The date numerals sits vertical in a square window, presumably to evoke a dashboard instrument panel. The dial is d...

Review: this year’s new Tissot PR516 Mechanical Chronograph Deployant
Tissot PR516 Mechanical Chronograph DEPLOYANT Jun 8, 2024

Review: this year’s new Tissot PR516 Mechanical Chronograph

The Tissot PR516 is a nod to the brand’s historical connection with motorsports, encapsulating a blend of vintage aesthetics and modern watchmaking. It’s part of Tissot’s heritage line, which pays homage to its classic models with contemporary updates. In particular, the mechanical model is a tasteful homage to the original chronograph, sized up to modern specifications but maintaining the classic look of a vintage motorsports chronograph.

Seiko Drops Astron GPS Solar 2024 Limited Edition SJX Watches
Seiko Drops Astron GPS Solar Jun 5, 2024

Seiko Drops Astron GPS Solar 2024 Limited Edition

Seiko just unveiled the Astron GPS Solar 2024 Limited Editions SSH157J1 and SSJ027J1. Both feature a transparent, patterned dial inspired by the starry night sky and a multi-faceted angular titanium case with contrasting satin and mirror-polished surfaces. Though styled like conventional watches, they are high-tech and run on Seiko’s proprietary GPS solar movement, which is accurate to +/- 15 seconds per month and has six months of power reserve. Initial thoughts Well liked for its value-minded offerings, Seiko does well with watches like the new Astron GPS. They are practical, high-quality watches that have some of the stylistic glamour of pricier timepieces thanks to the facetted case and integrated bracelet. Seiko Astron GPS Solar 2024 Limited Editions SSJ027J1. Featuring a reasonable prices of US$2,200 and US$2,500 respectively, the new Astron pair offers are amongst the more expensive electronic watches but executed as well as mechanical offerings in the same price segment. The titanium are finished well and the moulded sky-blue dials with applied indices are unusual elaborate for electric watches. Putting the high-tech movement aside, the quality of the dial and case are good for the price range. Bang for your buck The Astron GPS Solar models offer a chronograph function and run on a GPS solar movement with a power reserve of about 6 months. They are each equipped with different movements, with the SSH157J1 offering additional functionalities like the world time a...

Sinn Introduces the 903 St II Navigation Chronograph SJX Watches
Breitling Navitimer – Jun 3, 2024

Sinn Introduces the 903 St II Navigation Chronograph

Known for its military-inspired instrument watches, Sinn revisits one of its signature models with the 903 St II Navigation Chronograph. Updated in terms of the movement and case, the new 903 makes its debut with three dial variants, including a limited edition featuring an attractive light blue dial. Initial thoughts The 903 St is curious for bearing a striking similarity to the Breitling Navitimer – a result of Breitling having sold the rights to produce the Navitimer when it went bust during the Quartz Crisis. While the earliest versions of the 903 were essentially rebadged Navitimers – Sinn having bought the components from Breitling – the new 903 is a Sinn creation and also better than previous generations. The 903 St II in classic black Compared to earlier generations of the model, the 903 St II is streamlined and improved. Upgrades include removing the fiddly second crown at ten (so the slide rule is now directly operated via the bezel), the addition of luminous blocks for indices, and an applied logo.  The appeal of the new 903, however, does have one caveat: the date between four and five remains, but only on the regular production version. It’s absent on the limited edition, but that arguably should have been done for all variants.  The standard 903 St costs US$3,730 with a leather strap, and an additional US$240 for a bracelet. The 500-piece limited edition model is priced at US$4,170. The affordable price makes it a more attractive proposition than ma...

Glashütte Original Spezialist SeaQ Chronograph Review Teddy Baldassarre
Glashutte Original May 30, 2024

Glashütte Original Spezialist SeaQ Chronograph Review

While it was established relatively recently, in 1994, Glashütte Original can legitimately trace its lineage as far back as 1845, which also happens to be the year that watchmaking essentially arrived as an industry in Germany. As I cover in much greater detail in this article, a full century of horological tradition, centered in the town of Glashütte in the state of Saxony, came to an end with Germany’s defeat in World War II. It was replaced by a new era in which a state-owned conglomerate of once-independent heritage watch manufacturers, the Glashütter Uhrenbetriebe or GUB, shifted focus from artisanal techniques and luxuriously decorative timepieces to mass-produced tool watches for military and civilian customers. Many of the watches produced in the GUB era - spanning the Cold War years from 1951 up to the fall of the Berlin Wall in 1990 - are largely forgettable, but Glashütte Original, the luxury-watch firm that emerged from the dissolution of the GUB, has cherry-picked the most interesting and memorable of those utilitarian timepieces, produced in the late 1960s and ‘70s, for modern reimagining in its “Spezialist” series. Serving as the base model for the Spezialist models is a single, now-collectible divers’ sport watch from 1969, the Spezimatic Type RP TS 200, which was the first dive watch produced in Germany (technically, at the time, East Germany) that met the international ISO 6425 standard. Glashütte Original paid tribute to the fondly rem...

The G-SHOCK of Fountain Pens: the Pilot Varsity Worn & Wound
Seiko May 29, 2024

The G-SHOCK of Fountain Pens: the Pilot Varsity

Without a doubt, my favorite pen is the LAMY AL-Star. I could (and very well might) write paragraphs about this incredible fountain pen - something which would be an absolute joy, thanks in large part to the lovely experience the LAMY offers - but that’s not the pen I’m here to talk about today. That’s because, despite my fondness for the iconic AL-Star, it is not the pen I use most. It’s not even the fountain pen I use the most. No, that honor goes to the humble Pilot Varsity disposable fountain pen. I would categorize the LAMY AL-Star (and its remarkably similar sibling, the Safari) as the Seiko of fountain pens. Like a Seiko, it is often cited as a great first fountain pen for people looking to try something outside the typical rollerballs and ballpoints we see everyday. Also like a Seiko, the LAMY is a gateway pen, one which often leads to other more expensive options. The LAMY could easily be the one pen with which you live your entire life. For a totally reasonable amount of money, anyone could be happy with a LAMY, just as anyone could be happy with a Seiko SPB Diver. The AL-Star’s got everything you need, and nothing you don’t. It’s well-made, well-designed, and comes in so many variations that it would be hard not to find one that suits your taste. Pen collectors I know who have pens many multiples (sometimes many, many) the value of the LAMY still frequently cite it as one of their favorites. But if the LAMY is the Seiko of fountain pens, then t...

Louis Erard Unveils Affordable “Grand Feu” Enamel Regulator SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin May 29, 2024

Louis Erard Unveils Affordable “Grand Feu” Enamel Regulator

Though Louis Erard is best known for its high-profile collaborations with independent watchmakers like Konstantin Chaykin and Cédric Johner, the brand’s specialty is making interesting watchmaking accessible. Its signature complication is the regulator display complication, which has served as the foundation for several limited editions. The brand continues to do that with the Le Régulateur Grand Feu Enamel, a regulator wristwatch featuring a two-part fired enamel dial in striking ivory. Initial thoughts The new release has a subtle ivory dial produced in a traditional manner, resulting in a glossy, nuanced finish feel evocative of dials usually found on pricier timepieces. Its contemporary typeface and numerals complements minimalist style. Dial aside, the latest regulator is identical to the standard model and contains the same Sellita calibre. As a result, despite the elegant styling, it’s a chunky watch that’s almost 14 mm thick. Nevertheless, this keeps the Le Régulateur Grand Feu Enamel affordable at CHF4,400, which is strong value considering that most watches with such dials cost at least twice as much. Ivory enamel Louis Erard once again turned to Donzé Cadrans, the enamel dial specialist owned by Ulysse Nardin, for this grand feu enamel dial. Unsurprisingly Donzé was also the supplier for the ivory enamel dial in Excellence Email Grand Feu in 2021.  The time-only Excellence Email Grand Feu The production of grand feu enamel dials has a high rejection...

The Red Arrows Celebrate Their 60th Display Season With Two New Breitling Avenger Watches Fratello
Breitling Avenger Watches Even if May 29, 2024

The Red Arrows Celebrate Their 60th Display Season With Two New Breitling Avenger Watches

Even if you’re not a plane spotter or an aviation enthusiast, the name Red Arrows might very well ring a bell. The Red Arrows are the RAF’s legendary aerobatic display team that is celebrating its 60th display season this year. What better way to so do than with accurate formation flying, synchronized barrel rolls, and […] Visit The Red Arrows Celebrate Their 60th Display Season With Two New Breitling Avenger Watches to read the full article.