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Results for ISO 6425 (Diver's Watch Standard)

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Greubel Forsey Unveils the Gimballed Tourbillon Cardan SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Unveils Oct 25, 2023

Greubel Forsey Unveils the Gimballed Tourbillon Cardan

Having teased the launch of its eighth “fundamental invention” earlier this summer, Greubel Forsey has unveiled the Tourbillon Cardan featuring a 16-second inclined tourbillon suspended by a set of cardans, otherwise known as universal joints or gimbals. And for the nerds: the tourbillon is suspended in a mechanised gimbal that makes a fixed oscillation driven by the tourbillon, rather than a free-swivelling gimbal with differential gearing. Initial thoughts Despite a recent focus on sport watches, the Tourbillon Cardan is a reminder that no one does oversized, over-engineered watches quite like Greubel Forsey. The Tourbillon Cardan feels like a bridge between the past and future of the brand, suggesting the Tourbillon Cardan has been in development for several years. The dynamic and visually compelling nature of the tourbillon, the large sizing, and the traditional form of the case recall the Greubel Forsey of years past, while the minimalist aesthetic and the choice of titanium for the case material are clear hallmarks of the brand’s future trajectory. Impressive as it is, the swivelling tourbillon is not entirely a new idea. Zenith once had a double-axis gimballed escapement in its catalogue that was more complex than the Tourbillon Cardan but suffered from so-so reliability due to that very complexity. Greubel Forsey has approached the gimbals in a more concise manner, with the gimbals oscillating in a fixed motion that is being by the rotation of the tourbillon...

Our Editor Zach Blass was a guest on the latest episode of Wrist Check Podcast Time+Tide
Oct 21, 2023

Our Editor Zach Blass was a guest on the latest episode of Wrist Check Podcast

This is less a recommended reading, and more so a recommended listening or viewing. A long time coming, schedules finally aligned and our Editor Zach Blass was able to join Peri and Ben, two thirds of the trio behind the burgeoning Wrist Check Podcast, to talk watches. Wrist Check explains: “Wrist Check is a weekly … ContinuedThe post Our Editor Zach Blass was a guest on the latest episode of Wrist Check Podcast appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

eBay Finds: Vintage Chronographs & LED Screens Worn & Wound
Oct 20, 2023

eBay Finds: Vintage Chronographs & LED Screens

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Sheffield First up this week is a sweet vintage Sheffield “panda” dial chronograph. This gem has a 38mm chrome plated case that is in great shape, with almost no pitting and nice sharp edges. The dial is silver with black sub dials, and it looks fantastic, with clean steel stick hands and a bright orange chronograph seconds hand. This one is powered by the ubiquitous work horse Valjoux 7733 manual wind movement that is clean and runs well per the seller. Vintage chronographs are highly sought after, and “no-name” examples like this Sheffield can go for a very reasonable price, even with a well made and well known movement like the Valjoux 7733. Great chance to get a nice vintage chronograph without breaking the bank. View auction here. Vintage Wittnauer Here’s a gorgeous vintage Wittnauer with an amazing dial. The simple white dial has super cool faceted applied steel hour markers at 3, 6, 9 and 12, with no date, and simple little dots for the minutes. Big lume filled steel dauphine hands compliment the look. The 33.5mm steel case looks unpolished with nice sharp edges and stylish curved lugs. The original crown is signed with the Wittnauer “W” logo. The manual w...

Fears Brings Mother of Pearl to the Brunswick, But Not In the Way You Might Expect Worn & Wound
Formex has used it Oct 20, 2023

Fears Brings Mother of Pearl to the Brunswick, But Not In the Way You Might Expect

Fears continues to expand their classic Brunswick collection with the release of two new references: one of which brings their beautiful copper salmon dial to the 40mm case, and another called Aurora, which subverts expectations around mother of pearl dials. The new watches follow the brand’s subtle yet distinctive design language, feeling familiar yet new at the same time. Mother of pearl likely elicits a very specific reaction, but Fears looks to change that with the new Aurora, placing it within more neutral territory, accessible to both masculine and feminine sensibilities.  While I’m not sure that this will become a trend, this isn’t the first time we’ve seen this material used in unexpected ways. Oris has found creative ways to bring this treatment to their Aquis, and even Formex has used it in their Essence 39. In both instances, the mother of pearl element is given an accent color, and it’s the same case with this new Brunswick from Fears. There are blue tones at work on multiple levels of the dial, creating a slight deviation between the outer and inner portions. Mother of pearl is a dynamic material that shifts in appearance quite easily, from any angle, and in any light. It’s the perfect expression of a similar phenomenon, the aurora (borealis in the north, australis in the south), an ever changing interaction between the solar wind and the earth’s magnetosphere. Each brings a quality that’s difficult to capture in a moment, or describe in words...

Habring2 Introduces the Shellman 50th Anniversary Black “Gilt” SJX Watches
Oct 20, 2023

Habring2 Introduces the Shellman 50th Anniversary Black “Gilt”

Following the anniversary edition with a silvered “sector” dial, Tokyo retailer Shellman announces another small-run limited edition with the Habring² Shellman 50th Anniversary “Black”. Available as a chronograph or time-only, the new edition is limited to just 15 watches each. It retains the dial design of the earlier edition, but now in a black “gilt” finish and matched with a stepped bezel. Initial thoughts Vintage-inspired “sector” dials aren’t novel at all, but the new Shellman duo, like the original edition, stand out for their details. At the same time, the fact that they are Habring² means the price-performance ratio is excellent. Amongst the details that make this appealing are the applied markers, gold-powder print, as well as the matched silvered hands for the chronograph. These reveal an attention to detail in the design – unsurprising since Shellman is a respected seller of vintage watches – proving the whole here is greater than the sum of the parts. Though these are slightly more expensive than the first edition – the price is up about 10% – both models now include a steel bracelet. Add to that the weak Japanese yen, and these are a greater value buy than the original pair. Vintage-inspired Created to mark Shellman’s 50th anniversary, the original silver dial model was a nod to the retailer’s 2017 Habring² limited edition – which was launched well before “sector” dials became a fad. The new pair continue with the same ...

Review: A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Time Zone in Platinum SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Oct 17, 2023

Review: A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Time Zone in Platinum

After its initial introduction 18 years ago, the Lange 1 Time Zone with a platinum case and rhodium-coloured dial has made a comeback with a second-generation model. The revival features the cal. L141.1, which adds a daylight-saving time function to the second time zone. Already one of the most complex world time watches at the time of its launch, the second-generation Lange 1 Time Zone still stands out as one of the most advanced travel watches available today. Initial thoughts This combination of a platinum case and rhodium-coloured dial takes us nearly two decades back in time, as the original model was available in this same livery. It’s heartening to witness this classic pairing return, but now powered by the upgraded cal. L141.1.  Most striking is the timeless appeal of this watch. Examining it, I can’t help but think that the design has not aged, a testament to the enduring style of A. Lange & Söhne that is both formal and functional. Its longevity and continued relevance over the years are remarkable. To complement this, it’s worth noting the consistently surprising comfort provided by the relatively large case, which sits effortlessly on the wrist. Unlike typical sporty tool watches, it maintains a classical look and size that complements elegant attire, such as, of course, an airline captain’s suit. However, it’s essential to acknowledge that the readability of its dial under certain light conditions remains a significant challenge. Despite this sligh...

Bremont Broadsword Hands-On: Testing The Entry-Level Bremont Two Broke Watch Snobs
Bremont Broadsword Hands-On Testing Oct 16, 2023

Bremont Broadsword Hands-On: Testing The Entry-Level Bremont

Over the years we've really warmed up to Bremont on this site, even though I think they've had some misses recently. The S302 GMT I reviewed is still a hit in my eyes and this time, I wanted to test out one of the more entry-level offerings in the catalog. By the way, that S302 even made its way into our guide covering the best military watches ever. While it's not necessarily affordable by any means, the Bremont Broadsword seemed to be a compelling entry point, specifically within the brand's Armed Forces collection. I jumped at the opportunity to try it out this year, along with a couple of other field watches in my rotation.

Louis Moinet Savanna Tourbillon Tiger: It’s a Puzzle – It’s Literally a Puzzle Quill & Pad
Louis Moinet Oct 14, 2023

Louis Moinet Savanna Tourbillon Tiger: It’s a Puzzle – It’s Literally a Puzzle

What makes high end watches so desirable is the artistry involved. For some watches, it is artistry in their complexity, or their superlative hand finishing, or intricate dials, and some feature actual artwork like miniature painting. Then there are a very few timepieces that offer all of that artistry and more: one such timepiece is the unique piece Louis Moinet Savanna Tourbillon Tiger.

Rowing Blazers, Eric Wind, Bamford, and TAG Heuer Team Up for a Colorful Yachting Take on the Carrera Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Team Up Oct 13, 2023

Rowing Blazers, Eric Wind, Bamford, and TAG Heuer Team Up for a Colorful Yachting Take on the Carrera

Even for those who don’t follow menswear closely, I’m sure you’ve undoubtedly heard of Rowing Blazers in the last year or so. Whether it be from their limited releases with Seiko or Tudor, or their recent partnership with Target, Rowing Blazers’ star continues to rise and it’s due, in part, to their proven success in the collaborative business model.  Released today, their latest collection shows how deeply a collaborative spirit is ingrained into the spirit of the brand. The limited edition 42mm “Yacht-Timer” Carrera by Rowing Blazers is the product of founder Jack Carlson, industry veteran Eric Wind, and Bamford Watch Department to bring to life a reimagining of the classic TAG Heuer Yacht-Timer of the 60’s and 70’s. The original Heuer was used by competitive sailors during regattas and it was this sporting history and colorway that stuck with Carlson as they began to design this watch. With a white dial, bright blue text, and hits of red, blue, green, and pale yellow, it was only a matter of time before this preppy color scheme was incorporated into a Rowing Blazer project. By partnering with Eric Wind of Wind Vintage and George Bamford of Bamford Watch Department, the trio was able to create a timepiece that is deeply inspired by the original while still making it a uniquely modern interpretation. The stainless steel Carrera case sits handsomely at 42mm with a matching steel bracelet. The dial of this watch takes elements of the original’s colorway...

A Look at the Latest from Horage in Spain Worn & Wound
Rolex Richemont or Oct 12, 2023

A Look at the Latest from Horage in Spain

When writing about brands, we often use the words “micro” or “independent” to describe any brand that is not a Swiss luxury powerhouse or part of a mega conglomerate. Think of Rolex, Richemont or the Swatch Group for example. Most micro and independents we write about are, more often than not, brands that are more about design and a certain lifestyle philosophy than engineering and manufacturing. 99% of brands I love are the former. This doesn’t mean, however, that the latter don’t exist. Instead, an independent brand can be qualified as being one which goes beyond design to create stuff. A lot of new and cutting-edge stuff. This brings us to Horage, the Swiss that has been covered in these pages extensively, and more recently, most recently when Ed Jelley reviewed the Lensman 2. What we know about Horage is this: they make their own movements, good ones at that, and unique looking watches. I recently attended an event hosted by Horage through which I discovered that the brand actually does much more. Not only does Horage make its own movements, but it’s also at the forefront of technology to make watch manufacturing more sustainable. Or, should I say, watch collecting more sustainable. Through the discovery of their newest model and caliber-which I will tell you about in a second-I realized that everything in life does indeed work in cycles. Think about this: Rolex started as what we now describe as being a microbrand. It bought parts from many places to...

Yema Debuts a Surprising Tourbillon to Celebrate their 75th Anniversary Worn & Wound
Yema Oct 6, 2023

Yema Debuts a Surprising Tourbillon to Celebrate their 75th Anniversary

Celebrating 75 years in business, French watchmakers Yema have recently released their Yachtingraf Tourbillon Maréographe, a tribute to classic design and Franco-Swiss watchmaking mastery. Ringing in a milestone is never an easy feat; but, somehow, Yema has been able to accomplish not only a timeless design, but something that showcases the pursuit of excellence that has defined the brand over the course of its history.  Don’t let the plain black and steel (or bronze) design fool you – this watch is anything but simple. Yema has incorporated a balance between yachting heritage design and function to show what this watch is capable of – while also doing it with a certain je nais sais quoi, courtesy of a somewhat unexpected tourbillon caliber. The tourbillon is visible at the 6 o’clock mark, giving one an interior look into the precision mechanisms of this masterpiece. Opposite that, at the 12 hour, the Maréographe has a unique lunar time complication with a display of tide cycles, complete with a decorative bearing the traditional Yema “Y” logo. While maybe not part of your day-to-day needs, it’s nonetheless a showing of Yema’s technical capabilities and a bit of a unique offering for an important anniversary. This watch measures in at 42.5 mm, giving it a sense of presence on the wrist that matches the various finishes of the design. The rotating bezel is beautifully crafted with additional scratch protection, while the double-domed sapphire crystal will...

anOrdain Combine Woodwork and Enamel in the Model 3 Method SJX Watches
anOrdain Oct 6, 2023

anOrdain Combine Woodwork and Enamel in the Model 3 Method

The latest release from Scottish microbrand anOrdain continues its run of interesting enamel dials. The Model 3 Method combines a stamped silver dial covered with translucent enamel to create a deep, textured finish similar to that of flinqué enamel. Created in collaboration with Method Studio, a Scottish woodworking studio, the pattern resembles a wooden block that has been artistically chiselled away.  Initial thoughts This is not the first time anOrdain has used a textured silver dial base covered in translucent enamel. We have seen it before in the Model 1 Fumé, which boasted a hand hammered finish. In the new Model 3 the indentations are far more pronounced, giving a more dramatic look.  I have been a fan of the Glasgow-based brand for a while now, and its willingness to try new things arguably shows a mindset that is lacking in the wider industry. While nothing technically new has been done here, the combination of a woodworking texture and technique, with the miniature canvas of a watch dial has given us this brilliant look that sits perfectly within the anOrdain aesthetic. While the dial is fantastic, there is one area that I could conceivably suggest an improvement from studying the imagery that we’ve been provided. And that is instead of pad printing the markers onto the dial surface, instead printing them onto the underside of the crystal which would have left the dial texture completely untouched. But that is really the only room for aesthetic improvement...

The new Speake-Marin Academic Rouge offers their entry design in a new hue Time+Tide
Speake-Marin Oct 5, 2023

The new Speake-Marin Academic Rouge offers their entry design in a new hue

Speake-Marin offers their entry-level Academic in a new Rouge configuration. The distinct red of the dial is achieved through 14 layers of Pantone 188C-coloured lacquer. Grade 5 titanium cases in two sizes, 38mm and 42mm, and neither is a limited edition. Dressier timepieces have been overshadowed in an era where sports watches reign supreme, an … ContinuedThe post The new Speake-Marin Academic Rouge offers their entry design in a new hue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Panerai Introduces the Luminor Chrono Carbotech PAM01219 SJX Watches
Panerai Introduces Oct 2, 2023

Panerai Introduces the Luminor Chrono Carbotech PAM01219

Having already launched the Luminor Chrono Carbotech as the PAM01419 Navy Seals limited edition, Panerai is now adding it to the regular production line-up as the Luminor Chrono Carbotech PAM01219. Featuring the same carbon composite case and ETA-based P.9200 movement, the PAM01219 has a restrained, functional dial with blue accents. Initial thoughts The PAM01219 is a new version of the ETA-powered Panerai chronograph, so while it’s nothing novel technically, it is appealing for the no-frills design and lightweight carbon composite case. Prior versions of this chronograph were either less interesting, like the base model PAM01109 in steel, or over designed, like the PAM01419 Navy Seals edition with its sniper crosshair sub-dials. Stylistically, the PAM01219 is clear, clean, and free of superfluous elements. However, the PAM01219 is too expensive. It’s priced at about US$17,000, which is pricey any way you slice it, especially since most watches with the same movement from rival brands cost less (and much less in the case of the Tudor Pelagos FXD Chrono). At the same time, Panerai’s own catalogue includes the PAM00335 that has a ceramic case and in-house movement boasting an eight-day movement and mono-pusher chronograph, which makes it comparatively better value at just over US$20,000. Large, lightweight, and ETA The PAM01219 is classic Panerai in style with a clean dial that is a key part of its appeal. The dial is also symmetrical with a 30-minute chronograph count...

Letting go of a grail: Why I am selling my near-perfect Omega Speedmaster Time+Tide
Omega Speedmaster I never thought Oct 1, 2023

Letting go of a grail: Why I am selling my near-perfect Omega Speedmaster

I never thought these words would come out of my mouth, but I am letting go of one of the holiest grails in my collection, my near-mint Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch. If you know me, you’ll know this is one of the most out of character things I have done in all my time collecting … ContinuedThe post Letting go of a grail: Why I am selling my near-perfect Omega Speedmaster appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Bespoke Patek Philippe Ref. 3843/1 with a 13-Carat Diamond Crystal Reemerges SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Ref 3843/1 Oct 1, 2023

The Bespoke Patek Philippe Ref. 3843/1 with a 13-Carat Diamond Crystal Reemerges

One of the most intriguing Patek Philippe wristwatches is once again coming up for sale at auction, eight years after it was last sold publicly. Made in 1990 for a Japanese client, the Patek Philippe ref. 3843/1 has a 13.43-carat diamond as its crystal – a large, flat cut also known as a lasque diamond – and is an entirely one-of-a-kind wristwatch with its own singular reference number. As we explained in our 2016 story detailing the watch the first time it was sold (which seems like a lifetime ago in watch collecting), the ref. 3843/1 came about in the early 1990s when a Japanese client handed over the 13.43-carat lasque diamond to Patek Philippe with a request to mount it onto a watch. The watch was completed in 1991 and then sold to the client in 1994. Image – Christie’s Originating in India, lasque diamonds are flat, wide, and irregular in form. They were historically employed to cover miniature portraits and are also known as portrait-cut diamonds. Here the lasque diamond forms the crystal, which camouflages the fact that it is a diamond. Only the facetted edges and tiny inclusions are a giveaway that the crystal is a diamond. Case in white gold and matched with a fine-link bracelet, the ref. 3843/1 was built around the lasque diamond, explaining the unusual triangular case form. The case is about 32 mm by 26 mm at its widest, making it larger than most watches of its era, though relatively small by modern standards. Christie’s photos of the ref. 3843/1 appe...

Review: Cartier Santos Dumont Skeleton Micro-Rotor SJX Watches
Cartier Santos Dumont Skeleton Micro-Rotor Sep 27, 2023

Review: Cartier Santos Dumont Skeleton Micro-Rotor

When we first featured at the Santos-Dumont Skeleton Micro-Rotor right after it was unveiled at Watches & Wonders 2023, it was clear that the model had struck a chord among almost those who had the pleasure to see it in the metal. The design is distinctively Cartier in style, slightly whimsical, yet stands apart from almost everything else in the brand’s catalogue.  Cartier’s legacy as a renowned jeweller is indisputable, and this timepiece is a fusion of its knowledge in jewellery and watches, with a good dose of the traditional Cartier style. From the lacquer case inlays to the artful skeletonisation, the result is a balanced face that is entirely original.  Key takeaways The design is an ideal combination of a contemporary, tasteful skeleton movement with the historical Santos case design The plane micro-rotor is just right in size, neither too big nor too small, and adds just the right amount of whimsy without being gimmicky The large, as opposed to XL, case is ideal for the movement, but some might find it too compact As it is with all Cartier skeleton movements, the Etachron regulator feels out of place Initial thoughts I usually take a loupe to a watch for a closer look, and when I did so with the Santos skeleton the movement’s design shone through. The plates and bridges of the brand-new cal. 9629 MC are both structural and add to the aesthetic brilliance of this piece. Though Cartier has long made skeleton watches a hallmark of its line-up, the cal. 9629 M...