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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Frederique Constant Introduces the Highlife Perpetual Calendar SJX Watches
Frederique Constant Introduces Sep 10, 2020

Frederique Constant Introduces the Highlife Perpetual Calendar

Long focused on affordable mechanical watches, Frederique Constant continued with its specialty after its acquisition by Japanese watchmaking giant Citizen. Now the Swiss brand has just revived its bestseller from two decades ago, the Highlife collection, which has been redesigned extensively. It’s a new watch in all but name – the revamped Highlife harks back to the integrated-strap of the original, but it is a design very much catered to today’s taste. The Highlife Perpetual Calendar Manufacture The new Highlife collection debuts with three models that share the same tonneau-shaped case and integrated bracelet with quick-release pins. The most interesting watch of the trio is the Highlife Perpetual Calendar Manufacture, which is affordable despite its in-house movement and styling that’s reminiscent of more expensive watches. The other two models in the line up are simple automatics: one is time-only with an “Open Heart” dial revealing the balance wheel, and the other is a COSC-certified three-hander with date. Highlife Automatic COSC The Highlife Heart Beat Initial thoughts The Highlife manages to translate the look of high-end luxury-sports watches into an affordable watch by keeping a few design elements and simplifying everything. It is unavoidably derivative in style, but competently designed. So the 41 mm case is a simple affair with simple lines and surfaces, but dressed up with a polished, domed bezel. However, it avoids looking too plain even with t...

3 explosive quotes from emerging industry leader and Bulgari CEO Jean-Christophe Babin about Rolex, Baselworld and the future Time+Tide
Bulgari CEO Jean-Christophe Babin about Sep 10, 2020

3 explosive quotes from emerging industry leader and Bulgari CEO Jean-Christophe Babin about Rolex, Baselworld and the future

Cometh the crisis, cometh the man. Jean-Christophe Babin, CEO of Bulgari, has grown in stature yet again over the last six months as Bulgari has taken a militant stance against COVID-19. Whether it’s delivering Bulgari hand sanitiser to hospitals to assist in their fight against this deadly virus, or delivering a fair with 16 of … ContinuedThe post 3 explosive quotes from emerging industry leader and Bulgari CEO Jean-Christophe Babin about Rolex, Baselworld and the future appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The olive green dial of this TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph is incredible Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph Sep 9, 2020

HANDS-ON: The olive green dial of this TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph is incredible

As you may have seen here and here, we have been taking a closer look at the latest chapter in the TAG Heuer Carrera collection that sees a total redesign of one of the brand’s most historically important families. But within this new collection, the TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph green dial catches the eye … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The olive green dial of this TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph is incredible appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

New Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Memovox and Master Control Memovox Timer For 2020: Resonant Delights Quill & Pad
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Memovox Sep 9, 2020

New Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Memovox and Master Control Memovox Timer For 2020: Resonant Delights

Jaeger-LeCoultre's brand-new Memovox models launched in 2020 are delectable new renditions of the 70-year-old alarm timepiece that have more to offer than "just" looks. Aside from the Master Control Memovox Timer's variety of tone-in-tone blue hues and textures and the Master Control Memovox's purist style, there are big changes to the movement that alone make these new models worth looking at.

Oris Roberto Clemente Limited Edition Review WatchAdvice
Oris Roberto Clemente Limited Edition Sep 9, 2020

Oris Roberto Clemente Limited Edition Review

Oris has been coming out with some fantastic watches in 2020, including Momotaro and Hölstein Edition. Now they have unveiled another stunner, the Oris Roberto Clemente Limited Edition.  Oris has partnered up with the Roberto Clemente Foundation, which is a humanitarian organisation named in honour of the great Puerto Rican professional baseball right fielder; Roberto Enrique Clemente Walker. This special piece was created to honour the late Roberto Clemente and is released to the public on September 9th 2020, which is Roberto Clemente day.  Roberto Clemente Oris designed the Roberto Clemente Limited Edition using the Big Crown Pointer date as the base model. Oris has been making the pointer date model since 1938, with the Big Crown Pointer Date model having deep roots in the Swiss brands history as well. The Oris Roberto Clemente Limited Edition is released in a 3000 limited run, to honour Roberto Clemente’s career hits in his Baseball career.  So why did Oris create this timepiece? Roberto Clemente was more than just a Baseball player. Born in 1934, Roberto faced many battles, including discrimination because of the colour of his skin. However, this would only make him more motivated and determined to prove everyone wrong. Roberto conducting a baseball clinic for local children in his native Puerto Rico Roberto would go onto become one of the greatest Baseball players the game has seen, which saw him become a Baseball Hall of Famer. Roberto Clemente has won two Wor...

Breaking News: LVMH Abandons Tiffany Takeover SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Dior Sep 9, 2020

Breaking News: LVMH Abandons Tiffany Takeover

Announced shortly before COVID-19 made the news, the US$16 billion deal to take over Tiffany & Co. has been scrapped by LVMH. The French luxury conglomerate, which counts Louis Vuitton, Dior, and Hublot amongst its brands, cited the looming tariffs on French goods announced by the United States. That led to instructions from the French government to delay the deal until January 2021, according to LVMH. Another reason cited by the French group was Tiffany’s request for extension of the closing date for the deal, from November to December. In response, Tiffany filed a lawsuit in the United States, seeking to force LVMH to complete the deal. Regardless of the motives behind the withdrawal, it appears to be a shrewd move by LVMH, which is controlled by Bernard Arnault, the richest man in France and widely regarded to be a hard-nosed dealmaker. In the 10 months since the deal has been announced, the world has changed drastically. The state of the the industry makes it likely that LVMH will be able to find cheaper avenues to cement its position as the world’s biggest luxury group. Tiffany shares fell almost 10% in pre-market trading on the news, while LVMH declined about 0.9% during the trading day in Paris.  

Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Overseas Self-Winding in Pink Gold and Blue SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Introduces Sep 9, 2020

Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Overseas Self-Winding in Pink Gold and Blue

Relaunched in 2016 after a major revamp, Vacheron Constantin’s Overseas luxury-sports watch has since been expanded to include various complications, most notably the recent ultra-thin, skeleton perpetual calendar. The mix of a pink gold case and blue dial has been used extensive throughout the line, primarily on complicated models, but the fashionable combination has now been applied to the base model with the Overseas Self-winding in Pink Gold and Blue. Initial thoughts Blue dials have become the archetype for the luxury-sports watch, so the new watch is sticking to a well-established formula. The dial on the new Overseas is quite captivating, largely owing to the use of a brighter blue than usual. Also familiar is the combination of a blue dial and pink gold case, which creates a rich yet sporty look. The combination would be arguably be more appealing if it were applied to the ultra-thin model, which was once in the catalogue but is temporarily discontinued. Priced at a little over US$46,000, the Overseas in pink gold is a contestant in a highly competitive arena, with the primary rivals being the similarly-priced – but far more difficult to obtain – Nautilus and Royal Oak. The two rivals have a slightly longer history, but all of the watches offer similar value in terms of intrinsic quality; the Overseas is very good at what it does. Refined and modern The Overseas Self-Winding has all of the details that characterise the 2016 redesign that resulted in a cleane...

IN-DEPTH: The TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph collection offer size, sportiness and a sea of details Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph collection Sep 7, 2020

IN-DEPTH: The TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph collection offer size, sportiness and a sea of details

Editor’s note: The closer we have come to this new collection by TAG Heuer, the more details we have noticed and begun to appreciate. For example, the very unusual radially brushed finishing of the lush dials. See in the pics below. Yet more proof that big-box brands are still very aware of the power of … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph collection offer size, sportiness and a sea of details appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Highlights: Phillips ‘Intersect’ Online Auction SJX Watches
Patek Philippe it also includes watches Sep 7, 2020

Highlights: Phillips ‘Intersect’ Online Auction

Having debuted its first online watch auction earlier this year, Phillips returns with the second instalment, Intersect, once again offering a cross-category selection spanning watches, art, and jewellery. Made up of 110 lots – a third are watches – the auction is live from now until 6 pm (GMT+8) on September 14. While the line up naturally features the usual suspects like Rolex and Patek Philippe, it also includes watches from independent brands like H. Moser & Cie., Daniel Roth, and Urwerk, as well as a notably artisanal pair if Chopard L.U.C watches decorated with maki-e. Some highlights of the sales are included below, and the full catalogue is available here. [Full disclosure: Lots 97 and 98 were consigned by our founder SJX.] Lot 15 – Rolex Daytona ref. 116520 Having been overshadowing by its successor with a ceramic bezel (and other more recent sports models), the Daytona ref. 116520 is relatively good value in the world of Rolex sports watches. Interestingly, the ref. 116520 was the first Daytona to boast the in-house cal. 4130, and also the last to have a stainless steel bezel. The present watch is offered in well-preserved, “full set” condition, with an unusual extra – the Rolex Japan sticker on the case back once found only on Rolex watches sold in the country. It has an estimate of HK$94,000-190,000, or about US$12,100-24,400. Lot 30 – Urwerk UR-202 in white gold A pioneer in avant-garde watchmaking best known for its atypical displays of time, Ur...

INTRODUCING: The new Grand Seiko SBGC238 Limited Edition Spring Drive Chronograph is futuristic, aggressive, brilliant Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGC238 Limited Edition Spring Sep 7, 2020

INTRODUCING: The new Grand Seiko SBGC238 Limited Edition Spring Drive Chronograph is futuristic, aggressive, brilliant

I am beginning to run out of synonyms for the scope of Grand Seiko for 2020, with yet another impressive reference being pulled out of what seems to be a very deep hat. This time we are looking at the Grand Seiko SBGC238, a limited edition of the largest most angular case possibly ever from … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The new Grand Seiko SBGC238 Limited Edition Spring Drive Chronograph is futuristic, aggressive, brilliant appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph collection is for lovers of big, bold, sporty and steel sports watches Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph collection Sep 6, 2020

VIDEO: The TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph collection is for lovers of big, bold, sporty and steel sports watches

In a move that sees one of their most recognisable families undergoing a revitalisation, the new TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph collection is a serious statement by the brand. The Carrera DNA is clear for all to see, but the case and dial have been reinvigorated with some subtle changes that deliver a more contemporary … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph collection is for lovers of big, bold, sporty and steel sports watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The legend of the Rolex Submariner Date 41mm Ref.126610LN grows (by 1mm) Time+Tide
Rolex Submariner Date 41mm Ref.126610LN Sep 5, 2020

INTRODUCING: The legend of the Rolex Submariner Date 41mm Ref.126610LN grows (by 1mm)

Shock. That’s been the general consensus for the last few days among our enthusiast community. Rolex has just unveiled the all-new Rolex Submariner Date 41mm Ref.126610LN, and they’ve made one of the biggest changes to the dive watch in its 51 years of existence. For the first time in the legendary moniker’s history, the Oyster … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The legend of the Rolex Submariner Date 41mm Ref.126610LN grows (by 1mm) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The menthol-fresh Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph Limited Edition in 18k white gold Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph Limited Sep 5, 2020

INTRODUCING: The menthol-fresh Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph Limited Edition in 18k white gold

In a week marked by the one-millimetre revolution, Audemars Piguet has quietly tip-toed into the room and released a frosty breeze of a limited Royal Oak to everyone’s surprise. As if by magic, a new reference of the perfectly sized 39mm Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph Limited Edition in 18k white gold appeared on their website.  … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The menthol-fresh Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph Limited Edition in 18k white gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Cartier Santos-Dumont Hands-on Review WatchAdvice
Cartier Santos-Dumont Hands-on Review INTRODUCTION Sep 3, 2020

Cartier Santos-Dumont Hands-on Review

INTRODUCTION: Born from a friendship between Louis Cartier and his pilot pal – Brazlian Aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont – the Cartier Santos was created as a tool to help Alberto tell the time when flying. In the century or so since, Cartier’s Santos has been at the forefront of the brands watch collection, widely loved for its timeless design and icon status.  In more recent years, Cartier’s watch department has been hard at work updating and refining their watch offering, collecting heaps of praise along the way. Earlier this year, the brand released a trio (the Santos-Dumont “Le Brésil,” “La Baladeuse,” and “No. 14 Bis” Limited Editions) of Large size limited editions during Watches & Wonders 2020.  Each of these three watches feature Cartier’s in-house and hand-wound movement, a 430 MC. They’re also made from a combination of different metals with a dial to match, and were made in different quantities. Each of the trio is named after one of Alberto Santos-Dumont’s famous aircraft, which is featured on the caseback, alongside a corresponding motif engraving.  Today, we’re taking a closer look at the No. 14 Bis Limited Edition, named after a biplane designed and built by Alberto Santos-Dumont, which made the first ‘publicly witnessed’ manned powered flight way back in 1906. The 14-Bis was also known as ‘Oiseau de proie’, French for ‘bird of prey’.  FIRST IMPRESSIONS:  I was blown away by my instantaneous affection for the Santo...

HANDS-ON: This Raymond Weil Freelancer Calibre RW1212 in olive green is their most attractive model in years Time+Tide
Raymond Weil Sep 3, 2020

HANDS-ON: This Raymond Weil Freelancer Calibre RW1212 in olive green is their most attractive model in years

If you were to travel back in time and ask a circa 2010 horological enthusiast what some of the big players in the mainstream watchmaking game were, there’s a fair chance that Raymond Weil would get a mention. However, a lot has happened in the subsequent decade that’s followed – it could even be argued … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: This Raymond Weil Freelancer Calibre RW1212 in olive green is their most attractive model in years appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Glashütte Original are having a breakout 2020, this video celebrates our favourite models Time+Tide
Glashütte Original are having Sep 3, 2020

Glashütte Original are having a breakout 2020, this video celebrates our favourite models

Glashütte Original has had a year that few, if anyone, could have ever predicted. They have gone from eye-catching but niche Sixties Editions in lurid colours in 2019 and 2018 to what was declared by many that watched our video earlier in the year to be the best watch released at Virtual Basel – the … ContinuedThe post Glashütte Original are having a breakout 2020, this video celebrates our favourite models appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Omega Introduces the Seamaster Diver 300M Nekton Edition SJX Watches
Omega Introduces Sep 3, 2020

Omega Introduces the Seamaster Diver 300M Nekton Edition

Long a supporter of green charities, Omega backed a a number of initiatives, including the GoodPlanet Foundation and two island conservation projects in Indonesia. The latest is a partnership with Nekton, a non-profit oceanic research institute that is working on projects in the Indian Ocean. To inaugurate the partnership, Omega has unveiled the Seamaster Diver 300M Nekton Edition, a pared-back take on its bestselling dive watch that features a matte titanium bezel insert instead of the usual glossy ceramic. The Seamaster 2 submersible operated by Nekton Initial thoughts More monochromatic than the typical Seamaster, the Nekton edition has an elegant yet sporty look that sets it apart from its ceramic counterparts. The titanium bezel is good looking, with the raised, polished minute markers contrasting well against the granular base. And it’s matched with a matte ceramic dial featuring red accents – always a good combination on a dive watch. That said, the look resembles the Rolex Yacht-Master in platinum and steel. Though finished differently, the materials used aren’t substantially more valuable, and neither is the Nekton a limited edition. But it still costs about US$1,000 over the standard model, making it less compelling in terms of pricing. Still, the watch is arguably good value relative to the competition, especially considering the solid technical features, namely as the Master Chronometer-certified and highly magnetism-resistant movement. Submersible-insp...

6 watches that show the best and the breadth of modern Hublot, all from the (open) Sydney Boutique Time+Tide
Hublot all from Sep 2, 2020

6 watches that show the best and the breadth of modern Hublot, all from the (open) Sydney Boutique

While it pains us as Victorians to write this, for we remain in the dark depths of our second lockdown, the Sydney Hublot boutique is open for business. And with Father’s Day just a few days away, it had us thinking we should loudly remind you of that fact, and then go virtually shopping for … ContinuedThe post 6 watches that show the best and the breadth of modern Hublot, all from the (open) Sydney Boutique appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

6 things you may not know about Grand Seiko – Part 2 Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Part 2 During my Sep 2, 2020

6 things you may not know about Grand Seiko – Part 2

During my visit to the Grand Seiko “Nature of Time” exhibition, in my home town of New York City, I was fortunate to learn some lesser-known facts that have whet my appetite for the brand even more. Here is Part 2. If you missed Part 1, be sure to check it out here. 4. How the … ContinuedThe post 6 things you may not know about Grand Seiko – Part 2 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Artist and Watch Collaborations: Blurred Lines Between Fine Art, Fashion, and Consumerism | Part 1: Movado Two Broke Watch Snobs
Movado Sep 2, 2020

Artist and Watch Collaborations: Blurred Lines Between Fine Art, Fashion, and Consumerism | Part 1: Movado

The concept of the watch is no longer a tool, but a medium-and in a category of its own alongside sculpture or painting (consider Moser’s high-art Swiss Cheese Venturer or Swiss Alp Repeater). If this is something you’re willing to entertain, then it’s worth acknowledging the contributions of several dismissed brands and the artists behind them.