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VIDEO: Oh, hello there Raymond Weil Freelancer Calibre RW1212 in Green, looking sharp in the metal Time+Tide
Raymond Weil Sep 7, 2020

VIDEO: Oh, hello there Raymond Weil Freelancer Calibre RW1212 in Green, looking sharp in the metal

Well, the enthusiastic comments on the video, the site post and the socials have confirmed it – this new Raymond Weil Freelancer in a pitch perfect olive green, with that eye-catching exposed balance well and truly have your attention. Which is why we thought we’d upgrade the Hands-On review and bring it to you in … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Oh, hello there Raymond Weil Freelancer Calibre RW1212 in Green, looking sharp in the metal appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Sinn Introduces the U1 DE SJX Watches
Sinn Introduces Sep 1, 2020

Sinn Introduces the U1 DE

Sinn’s latest limited edition commemorates two events – one inextricably linked to the other. The overarching theme of the U1 DE is the 30th anniversary of the reunification of Germany, explaining the dial done in the colours of the German flag. Without German reunification, the second event would have been impossible – the partnership between Sinn and case maker SUG (short for Sächsische Uhrentechnologie GmbH Glashütte), which is based in the watchmaking town of Glashütte in the former East Germany. Headquartered in Frankfurt, Sinn first began working with SUG in 1999, before taking a majority stake after the 2002 floods inundated Europe and hit SUG hard. Initial thoughts The U1 is a likeable watch because it is affordable, incredibly robust, and solidly functional. Though it is a large 44 mm, the U1 does not feel as big as it measures. Its only downside is the Sellita SW200-1 movement within, which suffers from a short 38-hour power reserve. The U1 DE isn’t that much different from the standard all-black U1. Essentially it’s a little different on the dial and hands, along with the extra-large Sinn and SUG logos on the back – which really look too big. Ordinarily, limited edition iterations of standard watches are not interesting. But the U1 is an excellent watch, and the U1 DE doesn’t cost that much more than the standard version; the premium is about 15%. That’s a fair deal for something that looks different, while still retaining the no-nonsense st...

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Habring2 and Massena Lab Introduce the Erwin LAB02 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Aug 31, 2020

Habring2 and Massena Lab Introduce the Erwin LAB02

A year after the debut of the Erwin LAB01 in bronze, which sold out swiftly, Massena Lab has discreetly launched the followup. Announced only to “friends and family” via email, the Erwin LAB02 retains the familiar “sector” dial, but in a two-tone rose gold and silver finish. As with the first instalment, the LAB02 is made by Habring2 and designed by Massena Lab, a watch-creation studio founded by industry insider William Rohr. Initial thoughts Habring2 are always excellent value, and the Erwin LAB02 has the added appeal of having been designed by Mr Rohr, a veteran watch collector. Though the design is not novel – it is based on a vintage Patek Philippe – the look is extremely appealing, and it has been executed with a careful attention to detail, as evidenced by the textures of the dial for instance. While the original edition sold out in an instant, the LAB02 is a low-key launch, with the watches being delivered over a period of months, which makes it easier to land one. So it is accessible not just in price – a bit under US$6,500 – but availability, a useful thing when it comes to small-run limited editions. Vintage inspiration The new Erwin models itself on a 1930s Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 96 that had a similar, dual-colour dial. Illustrated Mr Rohr’s well-honed eye for detail, the dial of the Erwin is not just made up of twin colours, but also two surface finishes. The rose gold-plated chapter ring has a fine, concentric pattern, while the si...

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MICRO MONDAYS: The Mitch Mason Chronicle Time+Tide
Aug 30, 2020

MICRO MONDAYS: The Mitch Mason Chronicle

Vintage field watches can be a minefield, full of mechanical issues, aftermarket parts, or just a victim of horrendous overvaluing on the likes of eBay. All of this seems to go against their original ethos, which was to be legible, reliable and able to take a beating in the outside world. Of course, as watches … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Mitch Mason Chronicle appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Up Close: Cartier Tank Cintrée “Eminence Grise” NSO SJX Watches
Breguet hands Aug 29, 2020

Up Close: Cartier Tank Cintrée “Eminence Grise” NSO

I love the Tank Cintrée, and that was the starting point for the Tank Cintrée “Eminence Grise” NSO. Cartier’s simple, unchanging designs are unique in watchmaking, despite being made up of classical elements like Breguet hands and Roman numerals. In fact, the Cartier can be distilled into a few key elements iterated across different case forms, which together make up a family of distinctive designs. My favourite Cartier design has long been the Tank Asymetrique – which Cartier just reissued this year – but it is not an especially ergonomic watch due to the case shape and the fact that the crown sits fairly low such that it touches the wrist. Though known as a Tank today, the Asymetrique is not strictly a Tank, since the vintage originals were a distinct model sometimes known as the Parallélogramme. A 1927 Tank Cintrée that sold for US$350,000 at Phillips in 2017 The Tank Cintrée, on the other hand, is an eminently wearable watch that is wonderfully elegant on the wrist. It just wears well. And the Cintrée is also an important design. Though it was not the first Tank design, the Cintrée – the word is French for “curved” – is perhaps the quintessential case shape. And partly for those reasons, it is arguable the most desirable, going by the six-figure results at auction for vintage specimens. Familiar yet different The Eminence Grise was my third special-dial Cartier, sometimes known as NSO, short for “new special order”. The first was also a Ta...

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Behind The Lens: Philippe Dufour Duality – Reprise Quill & Pad
Aug 29, 2020

Behind The Lens: Philippe Dufour Duality – Reprise

In this installment of Behind the Lens, GaryG shares a series of photographs of one of the great watches of our time, the Philippe Dufour Duality. The Duality, with its linked twin escapements, was originally planned for production in a series of 25 watches. In a turn of events that seems almost unbelievable today, a lack of initial demand eventually led Dufour to limit production to just nine pieces, one of which is owned by a good friend of Gary's.

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FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The return of the event and the revenge of the nerds Time+Tide
Aug 27, 2020

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The return of the event and the revenge of the nerds

This week involved not one, but two Time+Tide events and, of course, a very significant one for the industry, which was Geneva Watch Days. We were there, with Marcus, our Creative Director, and a good friend, Mike Christensen, running the show - there are some delicious, funny and quirky videos in production from the event that … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The return of the event and the revenge of the nerds appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Longines Introduces the Heritage Military Marine Nationale SJX Watches
Longines Introduces Aug 26, 2020

Longines Introduces the Heritage Military Marine Nationale

Longines’ momentum with retro timepieces continues with the new Heritage Military Marine Nationale. The new remake is clean and legible, just like its inspiration, which was made for the French Navy in 1947. The vintage original, the ref. 5774, was an instrument for shallow diving – albeit one without the familiar rotating bezel of a diver’s watch that wouldn’t be invented until the 1950s. Consequently, it was a clean and legible watch, and so does the vintage reissue. Initial thoughts The Marine Nationale recreates the feel of the original quite well, despite being substantially larger. That’s accomplished by retaining the proportions of the original, as well as smaller but important details, like the shape of the seconds hand and the vintage logo on the dial. And thankfully there is no date to ruin the symmetrical dial. Like most of Longines’ other remakes, the appeal of the Marine Nationale lies in its affordable price of US$2,000, which is strong value especially given the upgraded ETA movement within. The only weakness of the Marine Nationale – especially given it is a remake of a dive watch – is the minimal water resistance of just 30 m. Subtle reworking At 38.5 mm wide, the Marine Nationale is relatively small by modern standards, even though it has been significantly enlarged from its original’s 33 mm diameter. That said, the size of the remake is good, especially coupled with the relatively thick case, which preserves the proportions of the ori...

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All New Ulysse Nardin Blast Hands-on Review WatchAdvice
Ulysse Nardin Blast Hands-on Review Simplicity Aug 25, 2020

All New Ulysse Nardin Blast Hands-on Review

Simplicity is complexity On August 25th, 2020, Ulysse Nardin unveiled their latest timepiece. A timepiece that is bound to send shockwaves throughout the watchmaking world. The Ulysse Nardin Blast comes as part of the brand’s executive collection, which features audacious timepieces that cement Ulysse Nardin’s legacy as a permanent innovator. You can check out the brand’s website here and find where you can see these amazing timepieces in person here. According to Ulysse Nardin, the Blast was created by drawing inspiration from a variety of sources. From fire and ice, magma and glaciers, violent lava eruptions and cascading ice shelves to mechanical, aeronautical marvels of fighter jets and stealth aircraft.  Just as incredible and powerful as earth and mother nature is with its wild extremities, the Ulysse Nardin Blast is comparatively a potent force in the watchmaking world. This technological wonder has a masculine design, from different shapes and sharp lines to an open-worked dial that is finished off with a tourbillon.  To encompass this latest creation, Ulysse Nardin is partnering up with Carsten Peter, a World Press Photo award winner who photographs some of the most extreme conditions on the surface of the Earth. His thirst for daunting and dangerous adventure to capture some of the most incredible photos has taken him to places many would dare not go; into tornadoes, over glaciers, and as close as possible to the intense heat of volcanoes. Carsten Peter h...

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Montblanc Introduces the Star Legacy Exo Tourbillon Skeleton Limited Edition SJX Watches
Montblanc Introduces Aug 15, 2020

Montblanc Introduces the Star Legacy Exo Tourbillon Skeleton Limited Edition

A fountain-pen maker for most of its history, Montblanc ventured into watchmaking and found success with its entry-level watches produced in its Le Locle factory. But the brand’s high horology watches are made at the former Minerva manufacture in Villeret – Montblanc acquired the brand in 2007 – which produces only a few hundred timepieces each year. The latest model to emerge from Villeret is the Star Legacy Exo Tourbillon Skeleton, which boasts a skeleton movement that’s been hand-finished the traditional way. Though there is little movement left after the open working, there’s much left to decorate. According to Montblanc, the bridges include 420 inwards angles on their bevelled edges. Initial thoughts Measuring 44.8 mm by 15.01 mm, the Star Legacy Exo Tourbillion Skeleton is a surprisingly massive watch – a characteristic of many Montblanc watches powered by Minerva-derived movements. That’s because most of the calibres are descended from Minerva movements of the early 20th century that were originally built for pocket watches. The advantage is an appealing, old-school layout and aesthetic, but accompanied by the downside of extremely large size, making it impractical as an everyday watch. Priced at about US$160,000, the Exo Tourbillon Skeleton is priced similarly to comparable watches. In fact, it arguably has a finer movement finish than the competition, going by the average standard of movement decoration at Villeret. But at the same time, it is ext...

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Hublot Big Bang Millennial Pink And Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Pink Edition: Is Pink The New Blue? And Does It Even Matter? Quill & Pad
Hublot Big Bang Millennial Pink Aug 10, 2020

Hublot Big Bang Millennial Pink And Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Pink Edition: Is Pink The New Blue? And Does It Even Matter?

Hublot always seems to have a finger on the pulse of what is currently moving people. And in this spirit the brand has recently launched a 'gender-neutral' Big Bang in a color marketed as 'Millennial Pink.' And Zenith has also recently announced a Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Pink Edition, both of which have prodded Martin Green into taking a dive into 'gender-neutral watches.' And he wonders why there aren't more of them.

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Up Close: G-Shock Dream Project ‘Pure Gold’ in 18k Yellow Gold SJX Watches
Casio has been Aug 10, 2020

Up Close: G-Shock Dream Project ‘Pure Gold’ in 18k Yellow Gold

Casio has been on a roll with the G-Shock Full Metal, which is essentially the original G-Shock DW-5000 of 1983 but reproduced in steel or titanium with a matching metal bracelet. Originally launched in gold-plated steel, the Full Metal has since been iterated endlessly – from titanium to “grid” to steel to aged gunmetal – making the concept a little less interesting because there are now so many variants. And then there is the G-Shock Dream Project “Pure Gold”, the most expensive G-Shock ever made, executed entirely in 18k gold, from screws to clasp. A watch that took over a decade to materialise, the idea for a solid-gold G-Shock originated in 2007 with the founder of Japanese watch retailer Eye Eye Isuzu, Yasuyuki Iima, who wanted “a symbolic product for the iconic digital wristwatch born in Japan”. Mr Iima’s suggestion was the genesis of the “Dream Project” of G-Shock inventor Kikuo Ibe. And when the solid-gold G-Shock was finally delivered in late 2019, Mr Iima received the very first example. One example of the Dream Project was delivered to Singapore – you’ll find the arrival and unboxing here – and I got to examine it up close. Initial thoughts The Dream Project is a magnificent and preposterous watch that costs US$70,000 – an iconic watch executed in a ridiculously over-the-top manner, akin to installing the W16 engine from the Bugatti Chiron in a Volkswagen Beetle. And that makes it cool. Dense, shiny, and very gold, the Dream Pro...

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HANDS-ON: The Sinn U50 SDR is submarine tough, but mighty slim and perfectly sized at 40mm Time+Tide
Sinn U50 SDR Aug 8, 2020

HANDS-ON: The Sinn U50 SDR is submarine tough, but mighty slim and perfectly sized at 40mm

A neutron star is tiny, at an average 20km in diameter, but incredibly dense. Its mass is equivalent to 1.5 times our Sun – which has room for more than a million Earths. How does this set the backdrop to a review of the fêted Sinn U50 SDR, the first-ever Sinn with a waiting list?  … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Sinn U50 SDR is submarine tough, but mighty slim and perfectly sized at 40mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Pandemic Truths – Shellman’s Yasuhiro Kojima SJX Watches
Aug 3, 2020

Pandemic Truths – Shellman’s Yasuhiro Kojima

One of the world’s most venerable retailers of vintage timepieces and independent watchmaking, Shellman in Ginza (pictured above) has long been a destination for horologically-inclined visitors to Tokyo. Shellman was founded in 1971 by Yoshi Isogai – the company name is a play on his last name, which loosely translates as “beach shellfish” – and is probably best known as the Japanese agent for Philippe Dufour and selling over half of the 200 first-run Simplicity watches. Two years ago Shellman was acquired by Komehyo, a publicly-listed merchant that has taken the business of selling pre-owned luxury goods to a whole new level with spacious, sharply-appointed stores offering items in stellar condition. Shellman is now the specialist-watch retail division of Komehyo, with six stores in Tokyo – including outposts in the city’s most prestigious department stores – and a diverse stable of independent watch brands, including Atelier de Chronometrie, Habring2, and Kudoke. It’s run by Yasuhiro Kojima, a 15-year veteran of Komehyo’s watch department who joined Shellman shortly after the acquisition. We caught up with Mr Kojima recently to discuss the state of the business, especially in light of the pandemic. Yasuhiro Kojima. Photo – Shellman The interview has been edited for clarity and length. What does your reopening look like? We take basic measures such as hand sanitisation before entering the store, measuring body temperature when entering the store, i...

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Raymond Weil Freelancer RW1212 Green Hands-on Review WatchAdvice
Raymond Weil Freelancer RW1212 Green Hands-on Jul 30, 2020

Raymond Weil Freelancer RW1212 Green Hands-on Review

Earlier in February this year, Raymond Weil unveiled the latest edition in their Freelancer collection. The Freelancer Calibre RW1212 is now available in a green version. Raymond Weil has previously released the Freelancer Calibre RW1212 in different colour variants, which include; blue dial, black dial, rose-gold edition and a black dial with rose gold indices and hands.  So what makes the Freelancer Calibre RW1212 model unique to Raymond Weil? It all comes down to the movement used to create this timepiece. Before the Freelancer Calibre RW1212 came along, Raymond Weil used all outsourced movements in their watches. That was until back in 2017, when Raymond Weil created an exclusive in-house movement in collaboration with Sellita. Sellita, as many may know, is the Swiss movement manufacturer that makes movements for brands around the world.  The development team at Raymond Weil worked together with the designers at Sellita for a period of roughly 18-months, to come up with Raymond Weil’s first in-house movement. Although not entirely in-house, it is still quite a feat for one of the few remaining watch companies that are still family-owned since their establishment.  To mark this momentous occasion for the brand, with the movement being a testament to over 40 years of beautiful Swiss watch-making traditions and expertise, Raymond Weil decided to name the calibre after the brand’s Swiss origins. The 1212 in the movement’s name refers back to the postal code of Ray...

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Comparing the Halios Seaforth Bronze Vs. Baltic Aquascaphe Bronze, two giant microbrand divers for under $1000 Time+Tide
Baltic Aquascaphe Bronze two giant Jul 25, 2020

Comparing the Halios Seaforth Bronze Vs. Baltic Aquascaphe Bronze, two giant microbrand divers for under $1000

Legends are made quickly in the microbrand world. In the case of the Halios Seaforth Bronze, news of its popularity could barely keep up with the speed at which it sold out, and while rumours of a second production run have been teased since January, second-hand Seaforths in bronze have been selling for more than … ContinuedThe post Comparing the Halios Seaforth Bronze Vs. Baltic Aquascaphe Bronze, two giant microbrand divers for under $1000 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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#WRUW – Time+Tide readers share their best wrist shots and it’s root beer all-round… Time+Tide
Rolex GMT-Master II Root Beer Jul 22, 2020

#WRUW – Time+Tide readers share their best wrist shots and it’s root beer all-round…

A couple of weeks ago, in a moment of sheer lockdown boredom, Andrew snapped a shot of his Rolex GMT-Master II Root Beer with the caption #WRUW, which no doubt we all know is an acronym for ‘What are you wearing?’ But not, in any way, referring to clothing. Watches only. In the truly spirited … ContinuedThe post #WRUW – Time+Tide readers share their best wrist shots and it’s root beer all-round… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Let’s admit it, we use our kids as excuses to buy watches, and other stories Time+Tide
Jun 25, 2020

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Let’s admit it, we use our kids as excuses to buy watches, and other stories

Here are some little-known facts about the Friday Wind Down, which has been published pretty consistently on a Friday since 2015:  Fact #1 - There have been 143 Friday Wind Downs.  Fact #2 - ALL of them, every single one, was written on a Friday. Fact #3 - It’s fair to say that practically all have been … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Let’s admit it, we use our kids as excuses to buy watches, and other stories appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Apples to Apples: Longines HydroConquest Vs. Oris Aquis, specs, pricing and value propositions compared Time+Tide
Longines HydroConquest Vs Oris Aquis Jun 18, 2020

Apples to Apples: Longines HydroConquest Vs. Oris Aquis, specs, pricing and value propositions compared

We want to start this post with a shoutout to some YouTube commenters by the name of Nicolas, Hani and Lee. This trio recently commented on the Longines HydroConquest 41mm in Khaki Green video and each echoed the same sentiments, which to paraphrase, are: “We are in doubt between this Longines and an Oris Aquis.” … ContinuedThe post Apples to Apples: Longines HydroConquest Vs. Oris Aquis, specs, pricing and value propositions compared appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Up Close: Bulgari Octo Finissimo Black Sandblast-Polished Ceramic SJX Watches
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Black Sandblast-Polished Jun 17, 2020

Up Close: Bulgari Octo Finissimo Black Sandblast-Polished Ceramic

Smart and original in design, the Octo Finissimo is extremely slim, well priced, and a strong seller for Bulgari, which has rolled out many iterations, including one in matte-black ceramic last year. Now Bulgari has added the shiny version to the line up with the Octo Finissimo Black Sandblast-Polished Ceramic. Initial thoughts The new Octo in all its glossy glory is ideal for anyone who found the original ceramic Octo flat and dull. But I prefer the matte version – the muted look very much suits the style of the watch. At the same time, polished ceramic, especially for a thin and lightweight watch, is too reminiscent of plastic. That aside, the technical appeal of the ceramic case and bracelet is the same as with the matte model. Both are constructed identically – simple and complex at the same time – differing only in the finish and colour. Though visually identical to the metal-alloy models, the ceramic Octo has an entirely different construction, which was a necessity due to the material. That’s an appealing factor in itself, because the watch was designed from the ground up as an all-ceramic watch; even the dial is ceramic. The new Octo Finissimo is light and smooth on the wrist. In fact, it is difficult to distinguish the tangible feel of the two ceramic versions from each other, and even from the titanium version. And like all other versions of the Octo, the new version wears well, with one caveat: wrists below a certain circumference don’t really sui...

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Up Close: Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Bolshoi Limited Edition SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Bolshoi Limited Jun 9, 2020

Up Close: Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Bolshoi Limited Edition

When Audemars Piguet launched the Code 11.59 last year, the best looking of the collection were the two watches with smoked enamel dials, which were the minute repeater and flying tourbillon. The base models, on the other hand, were plain and looked a bit flat. But as proof that dial colours and shading are as important as design, the Code 11.59 Bolshoi Limited Edition is the three-hand base model, but with a smoked blue enamel dial – and it is a good looking watch, with the downside of a substantial price premium for the enamel dial. Launched in November 2019 to mark the 10th anniversary of Audemars Piguet’s sponsorship of the Bolshoi Theatre in Moscow, the parent organisation of the world-famous Bolshoi Ballet, the Code 11.59 Bolshoi edition was a limited edition of 99 pieces. And it’s the only base-model Code 11.59 with an enamel (or smoked-finish) dial to date, though that might change in the future. Initial thoughts The Bolshoi edition is surprisingly attractive, even though only a single element has changed. Though it keeps the design exactly the same, the Bolshoi edition fixes the bland looks of the original simply but effectively with a fired enamel dial. While the smoked finish is not new – H. Moser & Cie. does it all the time and now MB&F; does too – the dial of the Bolshoi edition is fired enamel, which is doubtlessly difficult to produce and tangibly impressive. Because everything else remains the same as the standard edition, the Bolshoi edition also...

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“Jason Statham owns and buys all his IWCs himself,” says IWC CEO in playful interview about the 2020 Portugieser Collection Time+Tide
Rolex Jun 9, 2020

“Jason Statham owns and buys all his IWCs himself,” says IWC CEO in playful interview about the 2020 Portugieser Collection

“I haven’t read your article yet about which action stars are wearing which watches,” IWC CEO Chris Grainger-Herr begins the interview by saying. “I just very much hope you haven’t got Jason Statham in there with his one Rolex in that one film, even though he buys and owns all his IWCs himself and wears … ContinuedThe post “Jason Statham owns and buys all his IWCs himself,” says IWC CEO in playful interview about the 2020 Portugieser Collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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