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Hublot Big Bang Zermatt Jan 31, 2023

INTRODUCING: The new Hublot Big Bang Zermatt

This is the fourth release of the Hublot Big Bang Zermatt Hublot haven’t used steel in a Hublot Big Bang Zermatt since 2018 The Matterhorn is displayed in the running seconds subdial Between the Hublot-Express cable car, the Hublot-sponsored mountain restaurant of Chez Vrony, and the luscious wooden boutique in the centre of the town, … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The new Hublot Big Bang Zermatt appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Worn & Wound

Ulysse Nardin Freak X Reviewed Ulysse Jan 30, 2023

[VIDEO] The Freak Gets an Edit, The Curious Ulysse Nardin Freak X Reviewed

Ulysse Nardin is a peculiar brand. They have long been at the forefront of horological innovation, from marine chronometers in the 19th century, to creating stuff like DIAMonSIL in the 21st. However, they lack a singular, cohesive aesthetic that’s coalesced in broader culture in the same way watches like the Speedmaster, Submariner, or Royal Oak have. Except for a watch called the Freak, that is. A concept first released upon the world in 2001, the Freak was as impressive technologically as it was shocking to behold. With a movement that pivoted on itself to display the time, it was (and remains) daring, innovative, and downright novel. But, it never quite enjoyed a ‘hip status’ in the same way other exotic watches from the likes of MB&F; or Urwerk have since. This is likely due to a few reasons, but with the release of the Freak X in 2019, Ulysse Nardin is a whole lot closer. The Freak is a watch that has always commanded attention, both technically and visually speaking. The concept placed the gear train atop the mainspring, within a carousel that itself served as the minute hand. There was no dial to speak of, but rather a rotating plate containing the hour hand underpinning the structure. Winding and setting was managed via the deeply scalloped, somewhat steampunk-ish bezel unit. The launch of the Freak also marked the very first appearance of silicon within a watch movement, something the brand has been a pioneer of developing. This is a dramatic watch to behold ...

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Worn & Wound

Citizen s Latest Pair Jan 30, 2023

Citizen’s Latest Pair of Divers Pay Tribute to Classic Promasters

Much of the country might be gripped by the dead of winter, but that doesn’t mean we can’t start thinking about the summer watches we’ll be wearing just a few (OK, maybe more than “a few”) months from now. In fact, I’d argue that a week where you see multiple major snowstorms leaving the landscape gray, salt stained, and dangerously icy is the perfect time to consider the next summer sports watch. The power of positive thinking, and whatnot. Citizen, it turns out, has a few contenders that have just been announced if you’re on the hunt for something fun and sporty for the warmer months. A bonus: these also work perfectly fine in an Ice Station Zebra situation, but I’m trying to lift myself out of a winter funk, so bear with me while I indulge a short lived fantasy of beach weather and strong drinks with those little umbrellas in them.  The pair of watches making their debut this month are built on Citizen’s fantastic Eco-Drive platform of solar charged quartz movements, perhaps the ultimate in affordable grab-and-go watch tech. Each watch is also based on Citizen classics from the early 00s, a period of time when the Big Watch trend was reaching a peak. The “Autozilla,” released in 2002, was a titanium dive watch with a water resistance rating of 1,000 meters in an enormous 55mm case. Citizen followed that watch up with the “Ecozilla,” a version of the watch with a similar case but powered by light, in 2004. Both are highly sought after by Citize...

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Q Quill & Pad

Quill & Pad

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication Jan 28, 2023

Stories Of Gods, Wine, Spirits, And A Watch: The Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication Bacchus – Reprise

Vacheron Constantin released a watch that crosses the bridge between the worlds of watches and wine: a single-piece edition called Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication Bacchus. Ken Gargett understands that watch people find this as exciting as wine lovers might find the new vintage of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti’s Romanée-Conti.

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T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

Zenith Jan 20, 2023

Zenith El Primero Guide

The Zenith El Primero, found today in watches throughout Zenith’s collection, from the Chronomaster to the Defy to the Pilot, is arguably the watch world’s most famous movement - more widely known, in fact, than some of the watch models to whom it has given life during its half-century-plus of existence. The reasons for its renown are several, from the technical revolution it represented at its origin to the legendary role it played in the post-Quartz Crisis revival of the mechanical watch. Here we examine what made the El Primero so special in the first place and introduce you to some modern watches that demonstrate how it is still evolving and improving in the 21st century. A FOUNDATION OF PRECISION Watchmaker Georges Favre-Jacot was a mere 22 years of age when he founded the atelier that would become Zenith in Le Locle, Switzerland in 1865. Favre-Jacot, a contemporary of Swiss modern architecture pioneer le Corbusier, took his own pioneering approach to making watches, becoming one of the first to bring the various horological disciplines under one roof as opposed to the more common établissage system that most watchmakers used at the time, which had different parts made in different small workshops before being delivered to another workshop for assembly into a finished watch, Georges Favre-Jacot & co. became Zenith in 1911, the company taking its new name from a top-of-the-line movement it created that won a Grand Prix for precision at the 1900 Paris World’s F...

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Q Quill & Pad

Quill & Pad

F.P. Journe Repise While these days Jan 20, 2023

No Secret: The Journe Society Chronometer From F.P. Journe – Repise

While these days community building in the enthusiast realm seems increasingly the domain of brand-agnostic organizations, there remain old-school organizations whose members are devoted to the watches of a single maker. One such example is the Journe Society, a small, low-profile group of enthusiast collectors. GaryG sheds some light on the group and its specially commissioned group watch.

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Worn & Wound

Zodiac Jan 19, 2023

New Partner, Same Dance: Rowing Blazers Joins Zodiac to Celebrate Iconic Paris Watering Hole

With just two collaborative pieces in the past two years, Rowing Blazers has made some serious noise in the watch space. Their taste for playful colors and bold patterns combined with their use of various fabric textures across different styles not limited to streetwear, “prep,” and athletic-inspired apparel are displayed front and center in both of their Seiko collaborations. With author, designer, and Rowing Blazers founder Jack Carlson at the helm, and the horological experience of Eric Wind, it was only going to be a matter of time until the brand expanded their sights onto new horizons, and new watch brands to collaborate with. The new Rowing Blazers x Zodiac Harry’s Bar Super Sea Wolf is the latest to come from the American apparel brand and features an ongoing collaboration with their favorite watering-hole. One look at the Rowing Blazers catalog will tell you that the brand is not shy going heavy on the bright colors. And you know who else isn’t shy about using color? Zodiac. Naturally this collaborative piece uses a vibrant sunburst green dial reminiscent of a mix of green liqueurs. An appropriate color choice considering this collaboration includes Harry’s Bar, the oldest cocktail bar in Europe. This establishment has served libations to the likes of Ernest Hemingway, Daft Punk, and even makes a cameo in Ian Fleming’s James Bond novel “From a View to Kill.” With so much history that has taken place behind those doors, one would wonder what it woul...

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SJX Watches

Vacheron Constantin Jan 18, 2023

Watches & Wonders Geneva Announces Public Days

The world’s biggest luxury-watch fair, Watches & Wonders (W&W;), is set to take place in Geneva from March 27 to April 2, 2023 at the Palexpo convention centre. The successor to both SIHH and Baselworld, W&W; will see forty-eight brands showcase their latest. This year’s exhibitors include Rolex, Patek Philippe, Chanel, as well as the the big luxury groups, namely Richemont, which owns Cartier, Vacheron Constantin, and A. Lange & Söhne, and LVMH, owner of TAG Heuer, Zenith, and Hublot. W&W; will be open to the public on its final two days of April 1 and 2. Tickets, however, will be required to attend W&W;. They will be available for purchase on the W&W; website starting February 1, 2023, at 12 pm (GMT+1). A ticket costs CHF 70, similar to that of Baselworld. Beyond the fair in Palexpo, W&W; also encompasses events in the city centre meant to enhance accessibility. Exhibiting brands with boutiques along Rue du Rhône and Rues Basses, adjacent streets in Geneva’s prime shopping area, will stage their own events and exhibitions in their stores. At the same time, the organising body of W&W; will have talks and panel discussions at its headquarters at Pont de la Machine. The public days of W&W; bring it closer to the Baselworld model, which historically opened its doors to one and all, both in terms of exhibitors and visitors. As a result, Baselworld enjoyed a six-figure visitors numbers in its best years (though its exhibitors included the jewellery trade and suppliers). In ...

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SJX Watches

Jan 16, 2023

Molnar Fabry Introduces the Royal Symphony Minute Repeater

Founded by a duo who trained as jewellers, Molnar Fabry specialises in transforming old pocket watch movements and installing them in custom-made wristwatches. Based in Slovakia, Molnar Fabry recently completed its third minute-repeating wristwatch, the Royal Symphony Minute Repeater. The Royal Symphony is powered by a movement from a 1910 pocket watch made by Haas Neveux & Cie., a Geneva-based watch brand known for its high-quality movements that active from the mid-19th century to the 1920s. In typical Molnar Fabry style, the movement was entirely reworked, not only to restore its mechanical function, but also entirely decorated to a high level that includes engraving on the bridges. Initial thoughts Each watch made by Molnar Fabry is unique and mostly made according to the client’s specifications since most are made to order. As a result, the brand’s house style covers a diverse aesthetic – it is certainly not for everyone – but the quality of work is always impressive. Being jewellers, the brand’s founders apply the same artisanal, manual techniques used in producing jewellery to their watches. Even in photos the artisanal nature of the work is apparent, ranging from the movement decoration to the hand engraving on the case back. However, Molnar Fabry’s work on the movement is primarily decorative rather than mechanical. As a result, the Haas Neveux calibre still has a balance staff without shock protection. That’s like a non-issue in a watch like the Roy...

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T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

Grand Seiko Jan 13, 2023

Grand Seiko Spring Drive Guide

Japan’s Grand Seiko has become, in a relatively short span of time, one of the world’s most prestigious and collectible high-luxury watchmakers, competing for connoisseur attention and dollars with well-established maisons from Switzerland and Germany. And while its success is definitely a 21st century phenomenon, Grand Seiko is not really a “new brand” in the strictest sense. The first Grand Seiko watch (below) debuted all the way back in 1960, part of the much larger product portfolio of Japanese watchmaking giant Seiko, which was founded in 1881 and achieved its worldwide fame by embracing the mass market with timepieces at accessible prices with wide distribution. The Grand Seiko, by contrast, was positioned as the megabrand’s exclusive “King of Watches,” with standards of accuracy, beauty, durability, and legibility that could meet or surpass its Swiss competitors. Until 2010, it was also Japan’s best-kept horological secret, not exported to markets outside the country. Seven years after its international expansion, having cultivated a loyal and avid audience worldwide, an entirely new and distinct customer base apart from mainline Seiko’s, Grand Seiko firmly established itself as an independent brand - albeit one still intrinsically tied to its parent company through shared history and technology. Among those technologies is an innovative type of watch movement that was perfected right before the turn of the 21st Century and remains the exclusiv...

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Time+Tide

Patek Philippe Jan 13, 2023

The 5 best high complication watches of 2022

It’s nearly impossible to distil and encompass the variety and unique features of last year’s best complication into only five picks, but we’ll do our best to try, while having to include only a couple honourable mentions. Like any other year, established players in mainstream high-end watchmaking like Patek Philippe and A. Lange & Söhne … ContinuedThe post The 5 best high complication watches of 2022 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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SJX Watches

Breguet Reine de Naples 9835 Jan 11, 2023

Up Close: Breguet Reine de Naples 9835 and 9838 “Expanding Hands”

Even though Breguet is not a name that instantly comes to mind when it comes to ladies’ watches, the brand makes one of the most distinctive female watches on the market today. Late last year Breguet debuted perhaps its most ladies watch in some time: the Reine de Naples 9835 and 9838 that both possess a quirky yet graceful complication inspired by “expanding hands” pocket watches from the 18th century. Immediately recognisable thanks to its distinctive egg-shaped case, the Reine de Naples was inspired by similarly-ovoid bracelet watch delivered in 1812 to Caroline Bonaparte, Queen of Naples and the younger sister of Napoleon. Reine de Naples – literally “Queen of Naples” – remains the brand’s signature watch for ladies, though the line-up has grown to encompass many iterations over the years. Admittedly, the models are numerous enough that few leave a lasting impression, but the “expanding hands” allow the new duo to easily stand out. Initial thoughts I was impressed when I first laid eyes on the new Reine de Naples. Neither is a typical ladies’ timepieces that lazily relies only on a bejewelled case to stand out. Both models have a striking, elegant aesthetic that’s slightly more modern than expected from Breguet but still possessed of enough intricate detail. Though seemingly simple at the glance, the new Reine de Naples has a clever and unusual hour display with “expanding hands”. The simplicity of the time display combined with the n...

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Time+Tide

Rolex watch from evidence room Jan 10, 2023

Vermont state trooper allegedly stole a Rolex watch from evidence room

Trying to get a new Rolex watch can be frustrating, but is it frustrating enough to steal one? Jokes aside, watch theft in any form is, of course, immoral, and you would think a supposed man of the law would know better. Sure, police corruption is a very real and unfortunate reality. But it was … ContinuedThe post Vermont state trooper allegedly stole a Rolex watch from evidence room appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

Junghans Jan 8, 2023

Junghans Max Bill Guide

Watches with a sparse, minimalist aesthetic have a faithful following in the modern era, and a number of watchmakers, both Swiss and German, offer timepieces born of those design principles, which are most directly descended from Germany’s hugely influential Bauhaus school of design in the early 20th Century. The Junghans Max Bill series, however, is one of the undisputed trailblazers of the Bauhaus style of watch design, tracing its origins all the way back to 1861 and boasting a time-tested design from one of the movement’s leading legends, Max Bill himself. Here we offer a brief history of the Junghans Max Bill watch collection, some insight into its namesake, and an overview of the modern collection, one of the few to contain mechanical, automatic, quartz, and radio-controlled solar movements as well as an array of sizes and materials. HOROLOGY IN THE BLACK FOREST Junghans Uhren GmbH was founded in 1861 in Schramberg, in Germany’s eastern Black Forest, by Erhard Junghans and his brother-in-law Jakob Zeller-Tobler. Initially a producer of clock parts, the company began making its own complete clocks and pocket watches in 1866 and by 1903 had become the largest watch and clock manufacturer in the world, employing 3,000 people. In 1927, Junghans began making wristwatches as well as clocks and supplied both over the subsequent decades to clients in the German military as well as the commercial market. A watershed moment for the company arrived in the 1950s with the...

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SJX Watches

Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Starwheel Jan 2, 2023

Up Close: Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Starwheel

In an unexpected, end-of-year announcement, Audemars Piguet unveiled the Code 11.59 Starwheel, reviving the wandering hours complication that had been absent from its catalogue since 2003. Inspired by a 17th century clock, the wandering hours made its way into wristwatches thanks to Audemars Piguet (AP), which debuted the first wristwatch with the display in 1991. Retaining the familiar three-disc hour display, the new Starwheel is nonetheless an entirely different watch from the compact original. Powered by an in-house movement contained in the Code 11.59 case, the Starwheel has physical presence by virtue of its size, but also a surprising degree of refinement thanks to the excellent finishing of the dial and case. Initial thoughts With a modern look defined by dark colours and instrument-like numerals, the Code 11.59 Starwheel looks pretty much the same as it does in photos – but it is far more appealing than expected. In the metal the watch has an impressive degree of visual detail, particularly the polished bevels on the dial components, and a reassuringly solid feel, all of which give it a great deal of tactile appeal. The refinement in terms of visual detail also translates into the movement, which is in-house both in terms of the base and module. Although it functions identically to the original Star Wheel, the Code 11.59 model has an improved display mechanism. Instead of the periodic rotation found in the original model, the discs rotate continually throughout ...

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Time+Tide

Grand Seiko MoonSwatch Dec 29, 2022

The three watches Ricardo wore most in 2022 – Grand Seiko, MoonSwatch and Tudor

This will go down as the year that completely changed my life. From growing my passion for watches. To balancing life as a writer and father. All while trying to find myself as a collector. I’ll probably look back at it all in amazement. If simply for the fact that I didn’t throw my hands … ContinuedThe post The three watches Ricardo wore most in 2022 – Grand Seiko, MoonSwatch and Tudor appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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H Hodinkee

Hodinkee

Dec 25, 2022

Beginner's Guide: A Complete Newbie Falls In Love With The Tackiest Watch Ever

Everyone but me seems to think the Hublot Tutti Frutti is a punchline. And okay, I'll admit that it's funny. But my affection is no joke.

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Time+Tide

Dec 18, 2022

Would you get buried with your favourite watch on your wrist or is it the ultimate waste of time?

Jazz legend Miles Davis was buried with one of his beloved trumpets nestling by his side. The Beat Generation novelist William Burroughs was laid to rest with a loaded revolver, a sword cane, a ballpoint pen, a fedora and a joint. Frank Sinatra’s coffin meanwhile included a bottle of Jack Daniel’s, a pack of Camel … ContinuedThe post Would you get buried with your favourite watch on your wrist or is it the ultimate waste of time? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Time+Tide

Dec 18, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Delbana Rotonda gets perked up with a range of new colours

We’ve paid a lot of attention to the re-emerging Delma recently, a Swiss brand with nearly a century of unbroken history that not enough people knew about. It may also surprise you to learn that around 20 years ago, Delma integrated another brand into their company with a similar story - and that brand is … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Delbana Rotonda gets perked up with a range of new colours appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Time+Tide

IWC experience If you have Dec 16, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Race over to Chadstone for an adrenaline-filled IWC experience

If you have ever binge-watched Drive to Survive, played the Gran Turismo video games, or, more plainly, are a Formula 1 super-fan, then you will probably want to race over to the IWC pop-up racing experience over at the Chadstone Shopping Centre. Not only will you be able to get hands-on with a range of IWC watches, you will … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Race over to Chadstone for an adrenaline-filled IWC experience appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Time+Tide

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Dec 12, 2022

HANDS-ON: The rose-gold Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT is sleek, sculptural and downright sexy

We all know the Bulgari Octo Finissimo series as some of the most in-demand timepieces on the market today. You’ll find them peeking out of the well-turned cuffs of A-listers the world over. They’re sleek, sculptural, and let’s face it, downright sexy, and this one’s no exception. This is the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT in … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The rose-gold Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT is sleek, sculptural and downright sexy appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Time+Tide

Hublot Big Bang Unico Summer Dec 8, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Hublot Big Bang Unico Summer Purple embodies the best of the brand

Newton’s third law: every action has an equal and opposite reaction. When a brand, in any industry, gets super popular, it can become fashionable to try and tear it down. The power of the Hublot brand is massive, and if it is not their bold material innovation that drew you into their timepieces, then their … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Hublot Big Bang Unico Summer Purple embodies the best of the brand appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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H Hodinkee

Hodinkee

Dec 7, 2022

Talking Watches: With John Goldberger, Part 2

The legendary collector and scholar returns with a dozen vintage watches of the highest caliber – and you'll probably never see anything like this again.

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Dec 1, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Titoni Heritage Bicompax Chronograph evokes café racer style

Titoni have evolved many times as a brand, although they’ve always kept up with wristwatch fashion admirably in their century of operation. In fact, it’s hard to believe that their watches aren’t seen more often considering how long they’ve been around. The modern Titoni produce watches of a luxury standard at attainable prices, offering style, … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Titoni Heritage Bicompax Chronograph evokes café racer style appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Nov 29, 2022

The 10 best clocks, if you’ve run out of space in your watch box

If you’re anything like me, you’ll constantly be searching for a new, bigger watch box, along with new watches, of course. My drawers, desks and cabinets have filed up with watch boxes, canvas rolls and random Swatches I’ve picked up over the years. Luckily, most of us will have at least a small space on … ContinuedThe post The 10 best clocks, if you’ve run out of space in your watch box appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Time+Tide

Nov 27, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Titoni Seascoper range delivers classic dive watches with a clean-cut, modern look

When it comes to dive watches, to say there is a lot of competition is a huge understatement. With over a century of watchmaking experience, Titoni has put forward their latest entries into this heavily contested field with the Seascoper 300 and 600. The watches hone in on a definitive look that can be adapted … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Titoni Seascoper range delivers classic dive watches with a clean-cut, modern look appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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H Hodinkee

Hodinkee

TAG Heuer Nov 22, 2022

The Spec Sheet: The TAG Heuer Monaco Is More Than Steve McQueen's Old Standby

The Monaco is one of the most recognizable watches of the 20th century, so we're taking it back to square one.

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SJX Watches

Nov 22, 2022

Cambodian Watchmaking School Debuts an In-House Tourbillon

Presented to the world leaders who were recently in Phnom Penh for the ASEAN Summit, the ASEAN Lotus Tourbillon was created by the Prince Horology Vocational Training Center, the impressively-equipped watchmaking school set up by local conglomerate Prince Holding Group. (I visited the school in 2020 just before it opened its doors – see our report here.) Produced in an initial run of 25 pieces for the summit, it contains a hand-wind movement that is as notable for both its hand finishing and the one-minute tourbillon regulator. Cambodian prime minister Hun Sen was personally involved in the design of the watch – he received the very first example – and posted photos of the watch on his Facebook page a few days before the summit with the comment “Khmer can do it”. Initial thoughts Having been aware of the project and its ambitions since I visited the school two years ago, I was expecting much of the Lotus Tourbillon and I wasn’t disappointed. The quality of the execution is immediately apparent in the hand finishing of the components, particularly for the key components of the tourbillon, namely the cage and bridge. Equally impressive is the fact that it was developed and completed in under two years. Admittedly, the Lotus Tourbillon is plain in terms of the dial and case aesthetics, but the mechanical excellence is obvious. Importantly, the movement is likely to make it into a series of watches that will be sold publicly to raise funds for watchmaking school,...

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T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Nov 21, 2022

MICRO MONDAYS: The Trafford Watch Co. Crossroads

Trafford are shaping up to be a brand who are impossible to pin down, but if their releases continue the trend of happy surprises then we can only hope that never stops. Their first watch was a chronograph dedicated to 20th Century racing drivers-turned-spies, and their second watch is this new Crossroads. Despite a British … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Trafford Watch Co. Crossroads appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Time+Tide

Patek Philippe s dearer than your Nov 18, 2022

Why the Cartier collection of Tyler, The Creator matters

It’ll be no surprise to you to hear that another rapper has been on record showing off their watch collection. Tyler, The Creator, however, is no ordinary rapper. His collection doesn’t include iced-out Rolexes and Patek Philippes dearer than your first-born, no. The Californian’s tastes lie in a brand that’s seen an incredible resurgence in … ContinuedThe post Why the Cartier collection of Tyler, The Creator matters appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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