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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Romain Gauthier Introduces the Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette SJX Watches
Jun 29, 2020

Romain Gauthier Introduces the Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette

Romain Gauthier’s latest watch is a skeletonised version of its Insight time-only automatic first introduced three years ago. The Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette retains the same style as the brand’s other watches, but with more elaborate finishing thanks to the open-worked movement. Initial thoughts Romain Gauthier excels in finishing and the new watch undoubtedly has even more of the brand’s top-quality work since there are more surfaces to decorate. The skeletonisation also goes well with the movement, accentuating the long curves and sharp points that are typical of Romain Gauthier style. Importantly, it’s not just a visual upgrade, but also a tangible one – instead of the usual brass, the bridges and base plate of the skeletonised movement are made of titanium. But the titanium parts are finished to the same degree as a standard brass movement, which is quite a feat. And the basic Insight is already a well-conceived watch in the first place. It avoids some of the impractical features, like button winding and back winding, that Romain Gauthier installed on earlier models just to be different. That said, the skeleton version also suffers from one shortcoming of the standard model, which is the thick, 12.9 mm case. Nonetheless, the Insight skeleton is largely an enhanced version of an already-excellent watch. The Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette with a carbon-composite case The only downside is the price – which is no doubt justifiable. The skeleton in an 18k gold...

MICRO MONDAYS: Hands-on with the William Wood Valiant White Time+Tide
Jun 29, 2020

MICRO MONDAYS: Hands-on with the William Wood Valiant White

Editor’s note: Well, this little brand from London that thought it could, sure has convinced us of their seriousness over the last six months. It started with an email to us practically begging to donate a watch to the Watch & Act! Auction in aid of the Australian bushfires. It was a bit late in … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Hands-on with the William Wood Valiant White appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Bremont ALT1-P2 JET might just be the blacked out chrono you’re looking for Time+Tide
Bremont ALT1-P2 JET might just Jun 27, 2020

HANDS-ON: The Bremont ALT1-P2 JET might just be the blacked out chrono you’re looking for

Aviation is the pinnacle of human endeavour. The simple dream of wanting to fly has allowed the very best engineers, scientists, artists, and countless other professionals to flex their talents and serve Earth’s globalisation. Adventure and ingenuity go hand-in-hand when it comes to flying, and so too does it go with Bremont. The English-bred company … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Bremont ALT1-P2 JET might just be the blacked out chrono you’re looking for appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGH279 with brushed granite-grey dial is a total smokeshow Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGH279 Jun 27, 2020

HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGH279 with brushed granite-grey dial is a total smokeshow

Grand Seiko’s growing reputation over the last few years has been because of three main factors - outstanding quality, mind-boggling value for money, and the most refreshingly expressive dials. As such, it’s not often one of these uniquely dialled watches flies under the radar upon release, but that’s exactly what the SBGH279 aims to do. … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGH279 with brushed granite-grey dial is a total smokeshow appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

7 potential bargains from Phillips’ Geneva Watch Auction XI, launching later today in Geneva Time+Tide
Jun 26, 2020

7 potential bargains from Phillips’ Geneva Watch Auction XI, launching later today in Geneva

Phillips’ Geneva Watch Auction XI is just around the corner, and we must say – it is so refreshing to see something in the watch world that’s actually going to happen. No cancellation, no postponement, this auction is going ahead … and it’s got the potential to be quite interesting. Given the precarious state the … ContinuedThe post 7 potential bargains from Phillips’ Geneva Watch Auction XI, launching later today in Geneva appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The Longines Heritage Classic Chronograph 1946, for those that love vintage style in a modern size Time+Tide
Longines Heritage Classic Chronograph 1946 Jun 25, 2020

VIDEO: The Longines Heritage Classic Chronograph 1946, for those that love vintage style in a modern size

The 1940s were a golden period for chronograph innovation at Longines, an era that included the now highly collectible 13ZN movement, as well as timelessly balanced and articulated designs. The depth of Longines’ archives from this period have yielded yet another handsome model that is faithful to the original, with sensitive updates to bring it … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Longines Heritage Classic Chronograph 1946, for those that love vintage style in a modern size appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the New Lange 1 Time Zone SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Jun 25, 2020

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the New Lange 1 Time Zone

One of the most high-spec travel watches on the market, the Lange 1 Time Zone has just gotten a major revamp. The new Lange 1 Time Zone looks pretty much like the old one, but it’s powered by a brand-new movement that’s been developed from the ground up. Though it retains the same functions as before – plus a basic daylight savings time reminder – the dial has been improved, both in terms of display as well as details. Initial thoughts The original Lange 1 Time Zone was an ambitious travel watch that did a lot – twin time zones with individual day and night indicators, cities disc, oversized date, and power reserve. Functionality was maximised, but the interface and display was complex. The new Lange 1 Time Zone takes it a step further with the addition of a simple daylight savings time reminder that’s discreet enough to be almost invisible. But because the watch still has so many features, the interface inevitably remains complex, with two pushers plus a crown, making it a bit fiddly to use. Add to that the large and heavy case, and the Lange 1 Time Zone isn’t the most practical of travel watches. It really is for someone who appreciates the technical complexity and also enjoys interacting with the watch. Technical accomplishment remains an appeal in the new model. In typical Lange style, the new watch is powered by a movement developed from the ground up. A substantial amount of effort was expended to retain the same look – as was done with the Lange 1 ...

State of the Industry: The Luxury-Watch Market in China After the Pandemic SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton boutique Jun 25, 2020

State of the Industry: The Luxury-Watch Market in China After the Pandemic

By far the most important markets for luxury watches, China and Hong Kong together accounted for over 21% of Swiss watch exports in 2019 according to trade body Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry. Add to that Chinese travellers who buy watches overseas, and the fact is the luxury-watch business is dependent on Chinese demand. So the crucial question for the watch industry’s future – what’s happening in the Chinese watch market post-pandemic? On May 10, one of the trending topics on microblogging platform Sina Weibo was the US$30 billion plunge in the net worth of LVMH chief Bernard Arnault, mirroring the sharp drop in LVMH shares. But barely a week before – exactly a month after the end of Wuhan lockdown – there were nearly 100 customers queuing outside the Louis Vuitton boutique in Shanghai’s Plaza 66, all eager to shop before the brand’s price hike. The line outside Louis Vuitton reflected the rebounding demand for luxury goods in China as it emerged from a lockdown. “Macro Data Indicates a Surge in Consumption” – read the headline in the business-focused Workers’ Daily newspaper on May 16. The sentiment is backed up by the latest data from the National Bureau of Statistics of China published in mid June. Though the statistics indicate retail sales of consumer goods declined 13.5% on a nominal basis from January to May, totalling RMB1,387.3 billion for the year to date, the monthly figures indicate a recovery is underway. The monthly numbers s...

TAG Heuer Introduces the Carrera 160 Years Montreal Edition SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Introduces Jun 25, 2020

TAG Heuer Introduces the Carrera 160 Years Montreal Edition

Early in the year, TAG Heuer unveiled the Carrera 160 Years Silver, a remake of the Carrera 2447S from 1964 – a watch many consider the quintessential vintage Heuer. Continuing with the 160th anniversary commemoration, TAG Heuer has just debuted the the Carrera 160 Years Montreal Edition. Limited to 1000 pieces, the Montreal Edition has an eye-catching dial inspired by the funky Heuer Montreal (ref. 110503W) of 1972. The colours give a different dimensions to the Carrera 2447S, which was historically offered only in no-nonsense colours of black or silver. Initial thoughts At first glance, the Montreal Edition has a completely different personality compared to the Silver Edition that preceded it, despite both being essentially the same watch. While the latter is more restrained and somber with its monochromatic colours, the latest edition is fun and casual thanks to the colours taken from the white-dial Heuer Montreal (which was also available in black and blue). I like my watches to be understated, so I prefer the Silver Edition, though I can see this version appealing to anyone who loves an extroverted watch. Overall, the watch is a great fusion of the Heuer Montreal and Carrera 2447S, combining the colours of the Montreal with the classic style of the Carrera. The Heuer Montreal (left) and the Carrera 160 Years Montreal Edition TAG Heuer did a good job of translating the key elements of the Montreal into the Carrera, such as the yellow accents on the minute count...

Greubel Forsey Hand Made 1: Making A Watch The Traditional Way (Video) Quill & Pad
Greubel Forsey Hand Made 1 Making Jun 24, 2020

Greubel Forsey Hand Made 1: Making A Watch The Traditional Way (Video)

Our friends at The Watches TV have published a beautiful three-part video series on manufacturing a watch fully by hand as demonstrated by Greubel Forsey’s recent Hand Made 1. In this series, Marc-André Deschoux and his team get deep into the manufacture and talk to all of the artisans involved, beginning with founders Stephen Forsey and Robert Greubel.

Longines Introduces the Heritage Classic Chronograph “Tuxedo” SJX Watches
Longines Introduces Jun 23, 2020

Longines Introduces the Heritage Classic Chronograph “Tuxedo”

Longines is continuing its streak of affordable and handsome remakes of vintage watches, with the last big hit being the Heritage Classic “sector” dial, with the Heritage Classic Chronograph “Tuxedo”. Modelled on a 1940s chronograph powered by the cal. 13ZN, regarded by collectors as the brand’s best chronograph movement, the remake gets its nickname from the stylish black-and-white dial. Initial thoughts There’s almost nothing to criticise in the new chronograph. Aesthetically, it is spot on. The design is faithful to the original, smartly doing away with the much-derided extras of the date and “automatic” often found in remakes. It’s a moderate size, albeit a bit thick. The movement is modular, rather integrated. But it only costs US$3,000, which is excellent value for money. More generally speaking – and this is criticism – Longines has rolled out several well-executed remakes in recent years, notching hit after hit. Paradoxically the success has made the Heritage remakes a little less appealing, just because there are so many of them – and most of them are pretty good. When the original Legend Diver was introduced in 2007, it was special, because the only affordable, good-looking remake. That said, it doesn’t take away anything from the watch itself; the new chronograph really is a compelling buy. Two-tone and tachymetre The Heritage Classic Chronograph “Tuxedo” manages to capture most of the elements of the original. The dial is in silver...

4 Impressive Bracelet Watches In 2020 From Breguet, Bulgari, Hublot, And Breitling Quill & Pad
Breitling Watch bracelets are often Jun 22, 2020

4 Impressive Bracelet Watches In 2020 From Breguet, Bulgari, Hublot, And Breitling

Watch bracelets are often as underrated as housekeeping in a good hotel: they are commonly taken for granted. Collectors usually focus on the shape of the case and look of the dial first, with the movement coming in a close second. Here Martin Green takes a closer look at four new watches of 2020 whose full-metal bracelets significantly change the look of them.

Michael Klim has just been inducted into the International Swimming Hall of Fame, but he needs a watch for free-diving… Time+Tide
Jun 22, 2020

Michael Klim has just been inducted into the International Swimming Hall of Fame, but he needs a watch for free-diving…

In part three of our epic digital Baselworld event, Time+Tide’s Andrew McUtchen and Luke Benedictus spoke with Aussie swimming legend Michael Klim. Our timing was perfect, as Michael has just been inducted into the International Swimming Hall of Fame as part of Class of 2020. Swimmingworldmagazine.com reports that “Michael Klim has been called the best relay swimmer … ContinuedThe post Michael Klim has just been inducted into the International Swimming Hall of Fame, but he needs a watch for free-diving… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Pandemic Truths – Mohammed Abdulmagied Seddiqi of Seddiqi & Sons SJX Watches
Jun 22, 2020

Pandemic Truths – Mohammed Abdulmagied Seddiqi of Seddiqi & Sons

Everyone in watchmaking has been affected by the pandemic, brands and consumers alike. But in between the two are the retailers. To find out how the situation in unfolding for the key intermediary between brand and consumer, we spoke with Mohammed Abdulmagied Seddiqi. He is the Chief Commercial Officer of Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, the luxury-watch pioneer established in 1950 that is now the biggest retailer in the Middle East. Beyond being a retailer, the Dubai-based company is also widely known for organising Dubai Watch Week, the biannual fair that brings watchmakers and industry personalities to the Emirate. The interview was edited for clarity and length. First, how did Seddiqi get through the lockdown? It all happened very fast and came as a shock at first. The UAE government applied very strict rules immediately to protect the population and support the economy. We underwent a strict lockdown of 40 days. For security reasons, we moved our inventory out of the malls into our headquarters. We quickly found out it was a good idea! Indeed, no matter that the whole state was in lockdown, people still reached out to us for watches. We started sending pictures to them and organising home deliveries. At the beginning to middle of March, we did one delivery a week, then it turned into a daily challenge. What is amazing is that we did not get any order cancellations during the period. On the contrary, we saw people were getting bored at home, so online shopping increased. But we...

MICRO MONDAYS: AHW Studio, jewellery for the watch enthusiast Time+Tide
Jun 21, 2020

MICRO MONDAYS: AHW Studio, jewellery for the watch enthusiast

Often in the watch community, it’s difficult to celebrate the art of horology in any other way than simply wearing a watch. I mean, sure, you can consume editorial content (bravo, you’re already nailing this), wear a pair of socks covered in watches and maybe even pick up a copy of your favourite watch magazine … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: AHW Studio, jewellery for the watch enthusiast appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Czapek Antarctique Tierra Adélie & Orion Nebula: The Restraint Stands Out Quill & Pad
Czapek Antarctique Tierra Adélie & Jun 21, 2020

Czapek Antarctique Tierra Adélie & Orion Nebula: The Restraint Stands Out

The newly released Antarctique is Czapek’s first foray into the steel sport watch market, a market segment that has exploded over the last couple years, by dipping its toes in with a “subscription” strategy for the first limited model. Find out what is so special about this particular addition to the sporty steel bracelet watch market.

HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGJ237 and SBGJ239, two terrific GMTs with lovely lume Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGJ237 Jun 21, 2020

HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGJ237 and SBGJ239, two terrific GMTs with lovely lume

Looking at these two Grand Seiko GMTs, it’s easy to see how the world has changed from the time when the complication was invented. What began as an essential tool for pilots crossing the skies with a priority on legibility and simplicity has evolved into a different artform altogether. This centres around the creative, and … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGJ237 and SBGJ239, two terrific GMTs with lovely lume appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Monochrome’s Rolex predictions are scary accurate, will they be right again in 2020 / 2021? Time+Tide
Tudor will unveil each year Jun 20, 2020

Monochrome’s Rolex predictions are scary accurate, will they be right again in 2020 / 2021?

The most common, and irresistible, grist for the watch industry rumour mill each year is what new models Rolex and, to more of an extent than ever before, Tudor, will unveil each year at Baselworld. Further proof of this is the fairly fresh flurry of speculation around this little possibility right here. A blue Tudor … ContinuedThe post Monochrome’s Rolex predictions are scary accurate, will they be right again in 2020 / 2021? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

What is ‘Revenge Spending’ and will it save the Swiss watch industry? Time+Tide
Jun 20, 2020

What is ‘Revenge Spending’ and will it save the Swiss watch industry?

You’ve screwed up. Big time. Worse still, your partner has found out and they mad as all hell. To get their own back, said partner embarks on a demented spending spree on your joint credit card in order to punish you for your (latest) transgression. That’s what most people think “revenge spending” means. But they’re … ContinuedThe post What is ‘Revenge Spending’ and will it save the Swiss watch industry? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Montblanc Star Legacy Orbis Terrarum Deployant
Montblanc Star Legacy Orbis Terrarum Jun 20, 2020

Montblanc Star Legacy Orbis Terrarum

Montblanc releases the new Montblanc Star Legacy Orbis Terrarum available in stainless steel and rose gold. Orbis Terrarum comes from Latin, meaning “globe”, “earth”, and “world” giving the inspiration for the worldtime complication. The worldtime function is simple to set, read and use indicating all 24 time zones at a glance and shows whether the cities are in the daytime or nighttime.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Revolution and The Rake are kicking Covid’s arse, the Seiko modding craze and *eggplant emoji * Time+Tide
Girard-Perregaux HQ up Jun 18, 2020

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Revolution and The Rake are kicking Covid’s arse, the Seiko modding craze and *eggplant emoji *

It’s been another big week of Covid-19 era life here at Time+Tide, with Zoom calls with the Girard-Perregaux HQ (up to 90 people joined in at its peak) to join in on, a live chat with Wei Koh of Revolution and the CEO of DOXA watches to discuss our involvement in the Covid-19 Solidarity Auction … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Revolution and The Rake are kicking Covid’s arse, the Seiko modding craze and *eggplant emoji * appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Book Review: ‘Retro Watches’ By Josh Sims And Mitch Greenblatt Quill & Pad
Jun 18, 2020

Book Review: ‘Retro Watches’ By Josh Sims And Mitch Greenblatt

Very, very rarely does Elizabeth Doerr see a watch book where everything fits together in the way a book should: engaging, well-written text; very obviously carefully copyedited; great paper quality; good, clear, pleasing-to-the-eye design; super photography, and an engaging subject matter. And she's happy to report it does here. 'Retro Watches' by Josh Sims and Mitch Greenblatt is a must-read for those interested in affordable, design-focused watches of a quirky bygone era.

Petermann Bédat Introduces the 1967 Deadbeat Seconds SJX Watches
Petermann Bédat Jun 18, 2020

Petermann Bédat Introduces the 1967 Deadbeat Seconds

First revealed a year ago as a prototype with a dial that was a work in progress, the Petermann Bédat 1967 wristwatch with an unusual deadbeat seconds mechanism has just been launched in its final form. Mechanically identical to the prototype – it’s equipped a secondary escapement for the jumping seconds – the refined 1967 now has a partially-open dial that shows off the finely-finished keyless works. Initial thoughts The prototype 1967 deadbeat seconds was let down by an uninspiring faux-classical dial, which was a shame, because the movement was executed to an impressively high level. Fortunately, Messrs Petermann and Bedat embarked on a total redesign of the dial. Independent watchmakers don’t often make drastic changes to designs in response to criticism, but the two did so, and the result is a success. The new 1967 is a handsome watch that manages to look modern while evoking classical dial design. In fact, the new dial is essentially a “sector” dial with a sapphire chapter ring, a novel combination that has not been done before. And it is matched with Petermann Bédat’s take on classical lance-shaped hands, which complete the contemporary feel. The new 1967 in rose gold. Photo – Petermann Bédat Dial aside, the rest of the watch is largely identical to the prototype. The movement was already excellent and will be almost unchanged in the production versions, although Mr Petermann says that the engraved lettering on the three-quarter plate will be im...