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Lashana Lynch has confirmed she is the new 007 in “No Time to Die”, and boy does she wear the 007 Edition of the 300M with style… Time+Tide
Nov 9, 2020

Lashana Lynch has confirmed she is the new 007 in “No Time to Die”, and boy does she wear the 007 Edition of the 300M with style…

Last week, Lashana Lynch confirmed in Harper’s Bazaar that she would inherit the 007 mantle in No Time to Die, which is the 25th Bond film, due to hit cinemas in April 2021. During her interview she touched on a variety of points, including the perception of her casting and how she wanted to tackle … ContinuedThe post Lashana Lynch has confirmed she is the new 007 in “No Time to Die”, and boy does she wear the 007 Edition of the 300M with style… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MB&F; Introduces the HM3 Frog X SJX Watches
MB&F; Nov 9, 2020

MB&F; Introduces the HM3 Frog X

Launched in 2010, the bug-eyed HM3 Frog was perhaps the quintessential MB&F; wristwatch during its five-year run, having been discontinued in 2015. Now it’s making a brief return for its 10th anniversary as the limited-edition HM3 Frog X – with a case made entirely of sapphire crystal. Originally launched as the slightly robotic-looking Horological Machine No. 3 (HM3), the model evolved into the more organic Frog, which gained a pair of sapphire domes that made its instantly distinctive. Now MB&F; has taken the idea even further: inspired by frogs with transparent skin according to MB&F;, the HM3 Frog X is entirely clear and whimsically colourful in three different shades. Initial thoughts Changing the case material gives the Frog X a whole new look, which is surprising, since the design is exceptionally idiosyncratic. In fact, the sapphire Frog resembles a grand piano. The crystal case also gives the watch a more cohesive, organic flavour, avoiding the visual breaks between different materials like crystal and metal alloy. And the sapphire Frog also seems more pared back, at least in photos, than the most sapphire-case watches that tend to be flashy. And having the same shape and size, the Frog X shares a crucial quality with the earlier versions of the HM3: good wearability despite the avant-garde design. Because the case is neither excessive long nor wide, and has tiny lugs, it sits well on the wrist despite its seemingly large size. This ease of wear is doubtlessly ...

Breaking News: Philippe Dufour Simplicity 20th Anniversary Sells for US$1.51m SJX Watches
Nov 8, 2020

Breaking News: Philippe Dufour Simplicity 20th Anniversary Sells for US$1.51m

The very first Philippe Dufour Simplicity 20th Anniversary to leave Mr Dufour’s workshop was the first major example of independent watchmaking at Phillips’ Retrospective: 2000-2020 auction. It set a very high bar, hammering for 1.1 million Swiss francs, or 1.36 million francs including fees, which is equivalent to US$1.51 million. Almost forty times the retail price of the Simplicity when it was launched in 2000, the price is a new record for the model. The result handily crosses an earlier record set just a month ago at Sotheby’s in Hong Kong, where an 34 mm example from the original production run sold for US$662,000. The Simplicity 20th Anniversary features a hinged hunter back, a feature not found in the original series Impressive as it is, the record price was reached swiftly. Although the estimate was 200,000-400,000 francs, a bidder on the phone represented by Tiffany To of Phillips opened with a 450,000 franc bid. The phone bidder was joined by a handful of fellow phone as well as in-room bidders – Mr Bacs commented during the proceedings there were seven phone lines active – along with a solo bid online from Singapore. The price rose quickly in 50,000 and 100,000 franc steps, with Ms To’s phone bidder clinching the prize. The seven-figure price for the Simplicity elevates Mr Dufour to the rarefied territory of living independent watchmakers whose wristwatches have sold for above US$1m at auction. There are just two watchmakers who can make that clai...

#shitcollectorssay: Dear everyone, please stop saying these six phrases. Thanks in advance. Time+Tide
Nov 7, 2020

#shitcollectorssay: Dear everyone, please stop saying these six phrases. Thanks in advance.

Editor’s note: Andrew here. And of course I’m chiming in because I’m nervous. Which is a polite word for the Australian equivalent: shitscared. For example, if I Google ‘workhorse’ on Time+Tide (which I’m frankly too terrified to do), there will almost certainly be 100 responses. If I Google ‘beater’, perhaps several hundred. We are guilty … ContinuedThe post #shitcollectorssay: Dear everyone, please stop saying these six phrases. Thanks in advance. appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Our Predictions In The Artistic Crafts Category Of The 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): 6 Watches, 5 Panelists, And 3 Picks For Winner Quill & Pad
Nov 5, 2020

Our Predictions In The Artistic Crafts Category Of The 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): 6 Watches, 5 Panelists, And 3 Picks For Winner

Watches in the Artistic Crafts category demonstrate exceptional mastery of one or several artistic techniques such as enameling, lacquering, engraving, guilloche (engine turning), skeletonizing, and more. Which make comparisons between the different crafts extremely difficult. But our five panelists accept the challenge and come up with three predicted winners.

New: the Ressence Type 5X – Warm up the Gentleman Driver in you (specs and price) Deployant
Ressence Type 5X – Warm Oct 29, 2020

New: the Ressence Type 5X – Warm up the Gentleman Driver in you (specs and price)

Ressence partners with Eugenio Amos, founder of Automobili Amos to create a new bezel design for their Type 5 which relates to the Lancia Delta Futurista.  Ressence Type 5X Short Pitch about the watch. Second 10th anniversary piece in the Ressence collection X. Limited to 40 pieces. Motoring focused creation related to the passage ofRead More

Up Close: Longines Heritage Classic Chronograph “Tuxedo” SJX Watches
Longines Heritage Classic Chronograph “Tuxedo” Oct 29, 2020

Up Close: Longines Heritage Classic Chronograph “Tuxedo”

Longines has a grand history in wristwatch chronographs, some of which has been translated into appealing modern remakes. Granted the remakes don’t have legendary movements like the 13ZN of old, but they are affordable and well designed. There have been many remakes – Longines is adept at churning them out – but the Heritage Classic Chronograph “Tuxedo” is perhaps the best in recent memory. Based on a 1940s watch in Longines museum, the Tuxedo chronograph gets it right, both in the broad strokes but also the finer details. Initial thoughts In many ways the Tuxedo chronograph is more of the same from Longines, another vintage remake that’s well done. That would make it competent but nothing outstanding. But the Tuxedo chronograph is arguably different, because it is more adept than earlier remakes in its details. At arm’s length the watch looks like a typical replica, a watch that has vintage design but the size and shine of a modern watch. It is obviously a modern watch, but the attention to detail in its design and construction make it obvious that the designers understand vintage watches. This, like any other remake, is not about originality or creativity. It succeeds or fails on how well the vintage design has been reproduced, while allowing for modern materials and features. By that measure the Tuxedo chronograph aces the test. The case, for instance, has two finishes – a polished middle and a brushed bezel – while the case middle is extremely narrow...

Business News: LVMH Bags Tiffany & Co. at a Discount SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Oct 29, 2020

Business News: LVMH Bags Tiffany & Co. at a Discount

Having recently ditched its takeover of Tiffany & Co. – citing looming US tariffs on French goods – LVMH has now done what many industry insiders long expected – clinching the deal at a lower price. The owner of Louis Vuitton and Bulgari will pay US$131.50 a share for the American jeweller, instead of the US$135 originally agreed. The discount is more modest than expected, slightly over 2%, which translates into savings of about US$400m, against a total deal value of about US$15.8 billion. The deal is expected to close in early 2021. Regardless of the price, Tiffany is an important addition to LVMH’s expansive stable of luxury brands. Although LVMH is the world’s largest biggest group by a large margin – its 2019 sales were €53.7 billion – it has a comparatively small presence in “hard” luxury, namely watches and jewellery. That segment now makes up less than 10% of its sales, but Tiffany will bulk it up significantly. In fact, the deal’s completion will mean that LVMH owns two of the three largest makers of branded jewellery – Tiffany and Bulgari.  

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Presage SRPF41J and SRPF43J raise the bar with new and limited cocktail flavours Time+Tide
Seiko Presage SRPF41J Oct 29, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Presage SRPF41J and SRPF43J raise the bar with new and limited cocktail flavours

The Seiko Corporation, across its various brands, is known for making competitively valued watches with beautiful dials you cannot find from other brands – even at higher price points. The cocktail watches, as of late, have incorporated some gorgeous dial tones and textures, all of which are eye candy to the wearer and those who … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Seiko Presage SRPF41J and SRPF43J raise the bar with new and limited cocktail flavours appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hermès New Watches For 2020 Featuring The Daringly Different Aaaargh! (Video) Quill & Pad
Hermes Oct 25, 2020

Hermès New Watches For 2020 Featuring The Daringly Different Aaaargh! (Video)

Our friends at The Watches TV had a chance to see the Hermès watches for 2020 – and they (and we) were in luck to also hear from La Montre Hermès CEO Laurent Dordet. Host Marc André Deschoux goes through the new Hermès pieces one by one, beginning with the 2020 L’Heure de la Lune, the first version of which launched in 2019, which he thinks is "A super-hot watch.” Things go seriously wacky from there.

Up Close: S.U.F. Sarpaneva x Moomin SJX Watches
Sarpaneva Oct 24, 2020

Up Close: S.U.F. Sarpaneva x Moomin

Finnish independent watchmaker Stepan Sarpaneva is famous for his frowning moon “face”, an instantly recognisable emblem of contemporary watchmaking. But he also makes more affordable watches under the S.U.F. Helsinki label, which recently launched the S.U.F. Sarpaneva x Moomin, a cartoon watch that is seriously good. Created to celebrate the 75th anniversary of Moomin, a series of books and comics by Finnish author Tove Jansson, the Moomin watch is based on the S.U.F. 180, a fuss-free three-hander that’s inspired by vintage military-issue watches, but dressed up with a three-layer dial hand painted in multiple shades of Super-Luminova. Even in moderately low light, the dial glows in technicolor glory – that alone is worth the modest price of admission. Initial thoughts The S.U.F. Sarpaneva x Moomin is different and compelling, but easy to wear and put together notably well. Specifically, the dial and case are executed to a high level. The dial is three layers, and then hand finished and hand painted, while the case is a slim but robust construction that is finished skilfully. And the Moomin watch retailed for €5,000, or about US$5,900 – making it excellent value for money. The quality and detail of the dial – think of it as affordable metiers d’art – is especially outstanding for the price. Admittedly, Moomin has no particular resonance for me – and won’t for anyone who isn’t a fan of the comic – but the dial in itself is appealing. It’s qu...

Zenith Introduces the Chronomaster Revival Liberty SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces Oct 22, 2020

Zenith Introduces the Chronomaster Revival Liberty

Just days after unveiling the Lupin the Third edition inspired by a Japanese anime series, Zenith has rolled out a limited edition for countries on the other side of the world. The Chronomaster Revival Liberty is similarly based on the El Primero A384, but dressed in red, white, and blue. Initial thoughts Zenith has released several limited edition A384s this year, which can feel a bit too frequent. But to the brand’s credit the editions have all been appealing, and the El Primero in general remains a well-priced chronograph. The Chronomaster Revival Liberty is a good looking watch that retains the 1970s spirit of the A384 while giving it a totally new colour. The tricolour combination brings to mind the American flag, but it is an attractive combination that’s helped by details like the whimsical candy-cane central seconds hand. Gradient blue The key element that sets this A384 edition apart from the others is the dial, which is finished in a matte, graduated blue that darkens towards the edges. The smoked or fumé finish is popular today, but not especially common at Zenith. It’s matched with the red and white striped seconds hand, as well as a red-on-white date disc. The rest of the watch is stock A384, which means it remains true to the 1969 original in size and finish. It’s 37 mm in diameter and finished with radial brushing on its top face, just like the original. And inside is the El Primero 400 movement. Key facts and price Zenith Chronomaster Revival Li...

Editorial: Plato, Eratosthenes, and the Impossibility of Being Objective SJX Watches
Oct 18, 2020

Editorial: Plato, Eratosthenes, and the Impossibility of Being Objective

I recently had a wide-ranging conversation with a fellow collector during which the following question was raised: is it possible for one watch to be objectively better than another? While pondering this question, I was reminded of Euthyphro, a Socratic dialogue written by Plato.  The “TL;DR” version is this: Plato asks Euthyphro if he can provide a definition of piety. Euthyphro responds with a clear-cut example of piety, but Plato is unsatisfied. He responds that an example is not enough; he wants the underlying rules that define piety, those by which Euthyphro chose his example. So it is with watches. We can all point to examples of great watches, and to some extent we can defend these examples with some kind of justification. But it’s very difficult, if not impossible, to articulate a set of criteria that can be applied universally – a necessary precondition of truly objective comparison. But as an exercise, I think it’s worth exploring in what ways, specifically, watch collecting defies objective analysis so that we can understand the limitations of this way of thinking.  Defining objectivity Objectivity is, according to the Cambridge Dictionary, “the quality of being able to make a decision or judgment in a fair way that is not influenced by personal feelings or beliefs”. Objectively, there’s not much more to a watch than its size, shape, colour, materials, and functions. A lot of the criteria collectors use to make value judgements about watches ...

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph 160 Years Limited Edition “Dato 45” Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph 160 Oct 14, 2020

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph 160 Years Limited Edition “Dato 45”

TAG Heuer continue to celebrate their 160th anniversary this year with the release of their latest heritage-inspired limited edition. This is a formula that has offered both surprise and delight to collectors around the world in 2020. With the release of several new references (which we have covered here, here and here) that not only … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph 160 Years Limited Edition “Dato 45” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

New Bulgari Aluminium Watches For 2020: The Past As A Roadmap To The Future Quill & Pad
Bulgari Aluminium Watches Oct 12, 2020

New Bulgari Aluminium Watches For 2020: The Past As A Roadmap To The Future

The two new Bulgari Aluminium models look a lot like their predecessors, which makes you realize how timeless the design is. They don't even look retro, highlighting the timeless quality of the original design. And the good news is that they are relatively affordable compared to other watches in Bulgari's collection. What else do these watches have going for them?

MICRO MONDAYS: The Albany Watches AMA Diver – a mother of pearl dial diver, with a $300USD price tag Time+Tide
Oct 11, 2020

MICRO MONDAYS: The Albany Watches AMA Diver – a mother of pearl dial diver, with a $300USD price tag

Divers, the tough tool watches that become our best buddies on adventures, strapped on with a wetsuit as backup to a dive computer. All this sounds wonderful, though for those of you in lockdown they have an even more important task, which is to remind us of what will come, as well as adventures spent; … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Albany Watches AMA Diver – a mother of pearl dial diver, with a $300USD price tag appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Patek Philippe Introduces the Twenty-4 “Manchette” SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Oct 10, 2020

Patek Philippe Introduces the Twenty-4 “Manchette”

One of the “It” watches of the 2000s was the Patek Philippe Twenty~4, which was launched in 1999 as an elegant yet everyday watch for women in steel with a bracelet and quartz movement, making it affordable and chic. Having unveiled the round Twenty-4 automatic two years now, Patek Philippe has rebooted the original Twenty-4 “Manchette”, once again in steel with new dials in blue and grey. And like the original, it has a steel bracelet, hence the nickname – manchette being French for “cuff”. Initial thoughts While the round, automatic Twenty-4 is larger and perhaps more casual, the original rectangular model is more compact, giving it a slightly more formal style – but the new dial design avoids looking old fashioned. And the rectangular Twenty-4 has been around long enough it is easily recognisable, despite the relatively simple styling, making it the signature Patek Philippe watch for ladies. The central element of the new Twenty-4 is the facelifted dial. Doing away with the diamond indices and Roman numerals of the original, the new dial is cleaner and more modern, while also having luminous hands and hour markers. The upside of a quartz watch is that it more easily accessible than a mechanical watch, in both pricing and functionality, avoiding winding and setting the time. And this particular model does not have a second hand, so its identity is hidden. Priced at about US$14,700, the Twenty-4 is very expensive for a quartz watch with a steel case. An...

Bell & Ross Introduces the BR 05 Blue Gold SJX Watches
Bell & Ross Introduces Oct 6, 2020

Bell & Ross Introduces the BR 05 Blue Gold

Conceived as an affordable entry into the world of the integrated-bracelet, luxury-sports watches, the BR 05 was first launched in steel, priced at a little under US$5,000. Now the brand has just taken the covers off the decidedly more lavish BR 05 Blue Gold, which is rendered in the trendy colour combination of a metallic blue dial with a rose gold case, and even a matching gold bracelet. Initial thoughts When it made its debut last year, I found the BR 05 to be as good looking as it was controversial. At a glance the design is redolent of the usual suspects in the luxury-sports watch genre. However, there’s originality to the design that is less noticeable, such as the bezel derived from the quintessential Bell & Ross (B&R;) wristwatch, the square BR 01. And the case finishing on the steel BR 05 is well done; not overly complicated yet managing to have well defined edges. All of those qualities carry over to the rose-gold variant, which coupled with the blue, sunburst-brushed dial, results in a compelling watch. But the price is far from compelling. At US$32,500 on a bracelet (and US$11,000 less on a rubber strap), the BR 05 in gold is expensive, especially since the competition is very, very strong. It is cheaper than the Royal Oak or Overseas in solid gold, but the difference doesn’t seem like that much of a stretch at this level. The Overseas in gold, for instance, costs a little over US$46,000. A good look While the value proposition in terms of the movement an...

Panerai Introduces the Luminor GMT ION Singapore Edition PAM 1177 SJX Watches
Panerai Introduces Oct 1, 2020

Panerai Introduces the Luminor GMT ION Singapore Edition PAM 1177

A limited edition created to mark the opening of the revamped Panerai boutique in Singapore – which is now almost a decade old, having opened in 2011 – the Luminor GMT ION Special Edition PAM01177 is a variation on the standard-production PAM01033. Featuring a 44 mm case, it’s accented in red, the key colour of the Singapore national flag, and bears the island nation’s emblem on the case back. Initial thoughts The highlight of the new Luminor GMT are aesthetic tweaks – although Panerai is doing a red crown for the first time here. It is not majorly different, but the design is on point for a sports watch, with the red elements easily blending in without disrupting the typical clean style of the Luminor. Despite the simplicity of the colour palette, it manages to stand apart from most current sports watches because it avoids being blue, the colour that’s all the rage now. And it is very much a contemporary Panerai in style, doing away with the heavily-traditional designs of the brand’s historically-inspired models. With the tweaks being modest, it is priced reasonably as such things go. This costs S$13,850, about 7%, or S$900, over the standard PAM01033. But it’s worth keeping in mind the P.9010 inside the ION edition is a noticeably simpler movement than the P.9011 found in the PAM01033, lacking the power reserve indicator on the back for instance. Overall, it is a good-looking sports watch, though the simpler movement is a bit of a downer. Singapore deta...

Rewriting History – Discovering the Earliest Flyback Chronograph Wristwatch SJX Watches
Longines unparalleled history Sep 29, 2020

Rewriting History – Discovering the Earliest Flyback Chronograph Wristwatch

As a collector, I find myself in the rather sparsely populated niche of observatory chronometers. Due to Longines’ unparalleled history in precision timekeeping, the brand became a long-standing, personal favourite. Notably, competition chronometer movements, like the 30B with its off-centre construction and the rectangular 360, strike all the right chords with me. Along the way, I inevitably bumped into Longines’ outstanding in-house chronograph calibres – in chronological order, the 13.33Z, 13ZN, and 30CH – which opened a new door away from my focused, chronometer-centric journey as a collector. And it also led me to a discovery that rewrites horological history, one that gives Longines the title of having produced the very first flyback wristwatch chronograph, as well as the first chronograph wristwatch with two pushers. A catalogue page showing various Longines chronograph movements in the 1930s, with the topmost pair being for wristwatches, and the others for pocket watches 13.33Z Though Longines had produced several remarkable wristwatch chronograph movements, a two-pusher flyback chronograph powered by the 13.33Z had become the object of my desire. A watch that was only produced in minuscule quantities and remains largely unknown to even the most discerning of collectors, with only eight examples known the market. A long and winding quest ensued that ultimately resulted in the opportunity to acquire an exceptional example from a private collection in German...

Business News: Watches & Wonders 2020 Opens (Again) in Sanya SJX Watches
Sep 29, 2020

Business News: Watches & Wonders 2020 Opens (Again) in Sanya

Having scheduled for Geneva in April and then cancelled, Watches & Wonders (W&W;) then went online, and in a last minute decision, an actual fair in Shanghai’s West Bund Art Center. The surging demand for luxury watches in China as it emerges from the pandemic meant the inevitable success of W&W; Shanghai – which our correspondent outlined earlier this week – which is why the fair is happening again in China, this time in the resort city of Sanya. Opening barely a month after the close of the Shanghai event, W&W; Sanya takes place from September 29 to October 31 in the massive CDF Mall – a full month inside the world’s largest duty-free shopping centre. Importantly, W&W; Sanya is catered to the retail consumer instead of the traditional fair audience of watch retailers and journalists. Shopping paradise A city on the southernmost tip of Hainan island, which is known for its tropical weather and beaches, Sanya is the rapidly-growing capital of duty-free shopping in China. The Chinese government has announced plans to develop duty-free shopping on Hainan, which is already has already enjoyed a massive uptick. From the start of July to mid-August 2020, the CDF Mall recorded sales of over RMB5 billion, or over US$730 million, from over 740,000 customers. Open to the public daily, W&W; Sanya was conceived to cater to this demand. Eleven brands are taking part in the event in the CDF Mall, which, at 750,000 square feet or 72,000 square metres, is the world’s largest duty...

INTRODUCING: The Glashütte Original Alfred Helwig Tourbillon 1920 might be the most stunning tourbillon of the year Time+Tide
Glashütte Original Alfred Helwig Tourbillon 1920 Sep 27, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Glashütte Original Alfred Helwig Tourbillon 1920 might be the most stunning tourbillon of the year

In a year of great horological heights, Glashütte Original is once again pushing for the summit with the Alfred Helwig Tourbillon 1920 limited edition. This comes after a succession of eye-catching 2020 releases, featuring some of the best dials in the business, and fascinating top tier versions of their vintage perfect diver SeaQ, which made … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Glashütte Original Alfred Helwig Tourbillon 1920 might be the most stunning tourbillon of the year appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.