Hodinkee
Editors' Picks: The Watches We Want To Wear All Summer
The heat is on so we pick our watches for the warm season.
Results for ISO 6425 (Diver's Watch Standard)
26,360 articles · 268 videos found · page 815 of 888
Hodinkee
Time+Tide
VIDEO: Hublot’s colourful Spirit of Big Bang 32 and Yellow Magic
Hublot’s bold designs aren’t exactly known for their versatility, but I think a lot of people could be surprised by just how much their style is actually capable of achieving. The Spirit of Big Bang isn’t just a catchy title for Hublot’s tonneau-shaped case design, but rather an example of how the industrial feel and … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Hublot’s colourful Spirit of Big Bang 32 and Yellow Magic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre focuses on refinement of their elegant collection for Watches & Wonders 2023
The Watches & Wonders stand of Jaeger-LeCoultre is always one of the most attractive exhibitions, as the watchmaker of watchmakers know exactly how to best use their horological status. This year, the Stellar Odyssey collection has made way for a focus on harmony and beauty, with Jaeger-LeCoultre returning to the Reverso Tribute as their basis … ContinuedThe post Jaeger-LeCoultre focuses on refinement of their elegant collection for Watches & Wonders 2023 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Sarpaneva Introduces the Lunations Black Ruthenium
Finnish watchmaker Stepan Sarpaneva has revealed the newest iteration of his trademark complication, the Lunations Black Ruthenium. Equipped with his proprietary moon phase movement, the Lunations moon phase is so accurate it will accumulate a mere one-day discrepancy after 14,000 years. Limited to just ten pieces, this is a variant of a model first introduced a dozen years ago, but remains the brand’s most complex wristwatch. Initial thoughts The Lunations has all of the Sarpaneva design elements, including the moon “face”, open-worked dial (which in this case is actually the movement), laser engraved decoration as well as hand finishing, so it resembles many of the brand’s other watches. But the Lunations is actually one of the most complex watches devised by Sarpaneva. The Lunations is unusual in combining both the brand’s recognisable design with an original movement, one developed with the help of Andreas Strehler, whereas most of Sarpaneva’s other watches are powered by simpler, outsourced movements. Constructed in a novel manner with a two-disc moon phase display that’s so large it’s almost the diameter of the movement, the calibre inside is both interesting and complex. However, a moon phase complication is usually simple – and inexpensive – in most other watches. Consequently, the Lunations feels pricey with its €39,500 price tag, particularly so considering that Sarpaneva’s other moon phase models powered by outsourced movements cost hal...
Deployant
Review: The New Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date
‘Tis the year for the retrograde display here at Vacheron Constantin. The grand dame of watchmaking has released no fewer than three models with the mechanism at Watches & Wonders 2023. The first model is the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface, the most complicated of the lot. The next one is the Patrimony Retrograde Day-DateRead More
Revolution
The Last Emperor’s Patek Philippe: History in the Making
Step into history and witness the remarkable journey of Puyi’s wristwatch, an artifact that carries the weight of a bygone era. This iconic timepiece, belonging to the legendary emperor, will soon go under the hammer at Phillips auctioneers, and its story is truly captivating. Georgy Permyakov, Puyi’s Russian translator, was entrusted with preserving the memories […]
Time+Tide
FAST X: The watches of the Fast & Furious cast
The Fast & Furious films are a fun, perhaps, guilty pleasure for millions. The franchise is essentially a racing soap opera packed with fight scenes and plot-lines spiked with twist, turns and resurrections. I could probably put together a more in-depth intro here. But time is ticking. With such a large cast throughout the years, … ContinuedThe post FAST X: The watches of the Fast & Furious cast appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Franck Muller Grand Central Tourbillon Flash brings a sporty attitude to a complex movement
It can sometimes be difficult to know what to make of Franck Muller. Whether it’s because of the brand’s relative youth or general whimsical approach to design, it seems that a lot of collectors don’t take them particularly seriously. However, Franck Muller is built on a bedrock of technical excellence and that has earned them … ContinuedThe post The Franck Muller Grand Central Tourbillon Flash brings a sporty attitude to a complex movement appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Kurono Tokyo Closes Out the Calendrier I Series with the Maroon Dialed “Azuki” Anniversary Edition
The latest from Kurono Tokyo is a new version of their Calendrier Type I, a reference that was a finalist in the 2022 GPHG awards. A triple calendar is an old school complication, so it makes sense for a brand like Kurono to experiment on this platform, with their design language so deeply rooted in Art Deco principles and mid 20th century ideas around size and style. The new Calendrier is a Kurono anniversary model, thus it will be sold as a “time limited” edition, meaning prospective owners will have specific windows during which they can make a purchase, and Kurono will fill every order placed in these windows. Kurono has also announced that this will be the final version of the Calendrier Type I, so if this is a reference you’ve been hunting, we’re approaching your last chance to snag one directly from the brand. Kurono has dubbed this model the Anniversary Calendrier “Azuki,” a name derived from the maroon color of the dial. Azuki means “red bean” in Japanese, and in Japan is a color commonly associated with cars. Maroon was once a common standard vehicle color, so this watch is subtly auto inspired and a throwback in more ways than one. According to the brand, achieving this particular tone of maroon was a significant challenge. To get the color right, Kurono used phosphor-bronze rather than the typical brass for the dial material, which allows them to get the proper shade of red during the finishing process. Kurono notes that phosphor-bronze is m...
Time+Tide
VIDEO: Andrew and Fabrizio break down the new Bulgari Octo Roma and the first-ever Octo Roma chronographs
The Roman Jeweler of Time is home to many wonderful creations, but, due to the success and milestone records broken within the collection, much of the Bulgari conversation these days revolves around the Octo Finissimo. This year, Bulgari decided they were not having that. It was time to give the OG Octo Roma its due … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Andrew and Fabrizio break down the new Bulgari Octo Roma and the first-ever Octo Roma chronographs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
J.N. Shapiro Introduces the Resurgence
Having made a name for himself as a guillocheur, Joshua Shapiro has taken things a step further with the launch of the Resurgence, the most thoroughly American-made wristwatch since 1969. The Resurgence offers several features that are unique within the increasingly crowded field of high-end independent watchmaking. It is a customisable product that offers an almost unlimited number of dial, case, and movement combinations; it’s possible that no two watches will be alike. Almost every aspect of the watch, from the elaborate guilloche dial, engine-turned case, and customisable in-house movement, is surprisingly interesting and original. Initial Thoughts I first met Joshua in 2019 after the launch of the Infinity Series, and even then he was keen to discuss his vision for creating an in-house American-made movement that would live up to the quality of his guilloche work. But I must admit the Resurgence has exceeded my expectations, especially in terms of finishing. As a guilloche specialist, Joshua does not disappoint with the multi-part guilloche dial. Its construction reminds me of the dial found in the Roger W. Smith GREAT Britain, a one-off watch made in 2015 for the British government’s tourism campaign of the same name. But while the construction is similar, the Resurgence dial possesses its own aesthetic that steps out from the shadow of Swiss or British-style guilloche. At US$85,000 in gold and US$70,000 in steel, the Resurgence is priced at the upper end of the ...
SJX Watches
Highlights: Notable Independents at Christie’s Hong Kong
Having covered the extraordinary Patek Philippe timepieces and the single-owner “Ultimate Collection” in Christie’s upcoming Important Watches auction in Hong Kong, we now shift gears and look at the sales’s line-up of independent watchmaking. The independents in the sale are of course led by big names like Richard Mille and F.P. Journe – amongst the latter’s offerings in the sale is the rare Tourbillon Souverain in the colours of the Chinese flag. But alongside these six- and seven-figure watches (in U.S. dollar terms), are some underrated watches that might be value buys, notably the Ulysse Nardin Freak Lab. And then there’s the simply whimsical with the Konstantin Chaykin Clown II. Important Watches (lots 2201-2360) begins at 1:00 pm on May 26 – the catalogue is available here. The “China 2010” dial Lot 2215: Ulysse Nardin Freak Lab While Ulysse Nardin is not an independent watchmaker in the strictest sense of the term, it isn’t owned by a luxury group. And the Freak is still an avant-garde watch over two decades after its introduction, a watch so exotic it seems to have emerged from mind of a talented independent watchmaker. Which is true: it was conceived by Carole Forestier then refined and perfected by Ludwig Oechslin. So the Freak certainly makes the cut in this independents feature. And this particular Freak is incorporates some notable innovations. Historically a platform for movement-technology experimentation, the Freak evolved into the F...
Time+Tide
Studio Underd0g’s whimsical offerings are now available in the Time+Tide Shop!
While there’s plenty of (micro)brands out there doing their thing in their own unique way, there is no brand out there that quite does it like Studio Underd0g. Their funky two-register chronographs have captured the hearts of enthusiasts ever since they first released in 2020, stemming from unique, often food-related, inspiration. We’re excited to offer … ContinuedThe post Studio Underd0g’s whimsical offerings are now available in the Time+Tide Shop! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Buffy’s top 3 Baltic picks from the T+T store
If you’ve been paying attention to Time+Tide lately, I’m sure you’ve become aware that our store now stocks Baltic watches. As one of the world’s most beloved microbrands, this is an incredibly exciting time to start getting involved with their elegant range of retro divers and dress pieces. I tend to prefer smaller watches with … ContinuedThe post Buffy’s top 3 Baltic picks from the T+T store appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Editorial: Happenings at the Geneva Spring Auctions 2023
The Geneva auction weekend is typically a good barometer for where the market is headed in the near term because it’s the opening act of the season, with the Hong Kong and New York sales following later in spring. At the same time, the Swiss city is also where many of the serious players and would-be players turn up during the auctions, perhaps because its more central location compared to its North American and Asian counterparts. Inching downwards Trends that became clear last season – six months ago – continued into the spring sales. Most obviously, the values of “hype” watches have continued to creep downwards. This was exemplified by the Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5980/1400G – white gold and entirely set with diamonds – that sold for CHF533,400 including fees. While times were good, the model was a million dollar (or franc) watch – the exact same watch sold for CHF937,500 a year ago at Phillips. More notably, the last time an example, before the pandemic at Christie’s in 2018, it achieved CHF612,500. Prior to the auction season, independent watchmaking appeared to be resisting the forces of gravity, with demand and prices for such watches continuing to be robust. Now it appears the genre is enduring the same decline as sports watches with integrated bracelets. Take for example the unique Voutilainen Minute Repeater 10 with a steel case and open dial sold at Phillips for CHF342,900 – a solid result but more or less its original retail price. Just ...
Time+Tide
The Doxa SUB 300T Clive Cussler delivers a dial fit for a pirate
A friend of mine has this saying. Whenever he would see something old, he would point at it and say, “Old but good”. A rusty old Land Cruiser, a guitar that has endured years of abuse on stage, whatever it is, it’s old but good. We have a fascination with objects that have taken on … ContinuedThe post The Doxa SUB 300T Clive Cussler delivers a dial fit for a pirate appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Out Of Office: Cruising the California Coast With The Grand Seiko SBGE285
“Out of Office” is a series of stories accounting our experiences trying to find moments of solace outdoors, as well as our interaction with the gear that comes along with us, and that most certainly includes the watches on our wrist. Out of Office is an escape. It’s about finding an opportunity to put the world on pause, whether it’s the few minutes you take out of your day to read this article, or its the couple of hours you dedicate to getting out there. It’s where our experience meets our enthusiasm. Through this series we’ve already seen our authors do a hike in the local hills with a Sinn, explore a glacier via seaplane with a Citizen and a road trip through New England with a Rolex. Let’s continue this journey together and see where it takes us.” It’s no secret that I love the west coast. I might have been born in Tennessee, but my heart belongs in California. The ocean, the trees, the mountains…they just have my soul. I was recently in San Francisco for our annual Windup Watch Fair and decided to take a few days after the event to travel North up the Sonoma Coast, then back down to Monterey before heading back to Nashville. I expected a fun relaxing vacation with my BFF and that’s exactly what I got. Before I dive into some of the places I visited on this trip, I want to quickly go over some of the gear I brought with me. My camera of choice for this vacation was the Panasonic Lumix S5II with the Panasonic 85mm 1.8 lens. This camera is on lo...
Time+Tide
Omega revisits the Seamaster Aqua Terra Worldtimer with new titanium and steel models with coloured ceramic bezels
Three new configurations for the Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Worldtimer Titanium makes its debut in the collection, new green dial for stainless steel, all use coloured ceramic bezels for the first time Titanium model is US$2.6K more expensive than the original steel, new steel models US$1K more expensive due to new bezel and 18K moonshine gold … ContinuedThe post Omega revisits the Seamaster Aqua Terra Worldtimer with new titanium and steel models with coloured ceramic bezels appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
15 Orange-Dial Watches from Entry-Level to Luxury
We’re living in a world of seemingly almost infinite color choices when it comes to watches, particularly their dials, the faces that timepieces most prominently show to the public. Amidst the masses of silver, black, blue and various shades of green dials that proliferate today, orange dials are still something of a niche, generally assigned to a handful of diving watches, for which the earliest ones were intended more as a matter of practicality than style. However, watchmakers in recent years have slowly started to embrace the orange dial and to discover the widely appealing breadth of hues it offers. Here we showcase 15 orange-faced watches that are on the market now; as always, we start at an eminently affordable price point, slightly over $200, and top out in the high-luxury segment, at six figures. Orient Ray Raven II FAA02006M9 Price: $210, Case Size: 41.5mm, Thickness: 13mm, Lug to Lug: 47mm, Lug Width: 22mm, Crystal: Mineral, Water Resistance: 200m, Movement: Automatic Orient F6922 Orient is a Japanese watchmaker founded in 1950 but with a tangled history stretching all the way back to 1901 and a convoluted relationship with its now-parent company, Seiko Epson Corporation. Like its better-known contemporaries, Seiko (with its own complex corporate structure through Epson) and Citizen, Orient made its worldwide reputation by making affordable watches with appealing designs. Among Orient’s stable of sporty divers’ watches is this Ray Raven II model with ...
SJX Watches
Hands On: TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph “Glassbox”
It’s been 60 years since Jack Heuer introduced perhaps his best-known creation, the Carrera. Conceived as a no-frills chronograph for racing drivers, the original Carrera combined beauty and practicality without sacrificing style. Having released several vintage remakes, TAG Heuer has now pivoted and gently modernised its signature chronograph. The Carrera Chronograph “Glassbox” retains the outline of the original, but it is recognisably different thanks to the highly-domed sapphire crystal – hence the “Glassbox” nickname – that allows the tachymeter scale to sit raised above the dial. The raised tachymeter echos the contours of the crystal, giving the watch a decidedly contemporary flair. Initial thoughts The Glassbox successful combines the old and new. The watch manages to convey evoke the original, while still looking like a modern watch, rather than a remake. The raised tachymeter scale and domed crystal serve to give the watch a visual depth that vintage originals lack. That said, essential elements from the vintage original have been ported over to the new design, like the typography on the tachymeter scale and applied markers for instance. Importantly, the Glassbox is smaller than most other comparable Carrera models, with a case that’s just 39 mm in diameter. The size suits the vintage-inspired design, although the watch still remains noticeably thick as a result of the movement. Interestingly, the two dials actually have different designs. The p...
Time+Tide
My favourite Micro Mondays from the last 12 months
Shining a light on some lesser-known brands is one of my favourite things to do here at Time+Tide, and the weekly Micro Mondays segment helps to keep me informed on new and exciting releases just as much as it does for you. With the onslaught of Kickstarter releases piling in, it’s becoming harder and harder … ContinuedThe post My favourite Micro Mondays from the last 12 months appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Girard-Perregaux Laureato: The Underappreciated Royal Oak Substitute?
It will surprise nobody that over the last 5 years certain steel sports watches have taken off in terms of popularity and become practically impossible to buy at an authorized retailer. However, fear not as there is still a unicorn out there that has not captured broader attention (yet): the Girard-Perregaux Laureato.
Worn & Wound
The Rowing Blazers x Seiko 5 Sports Collection Returns with a Brand New Dial Color Palette
A dynamic duo is a way to describe a harmonious connection between two people that tend to create positive results when their unique traits are aligned together. Think Kobe and Shaq, Rick and Morty, or Thomas Bangalter and Guy-Manuel de Homem-Christo, aka Daft Punk. This phenomenon can also be found by way of successful collaborations between brands across different industries. Kith and New Balance, as well as The James Brand and Topo Designs come to mind. One ongoing collaboration in particular that happens to intersect our horological universe is none other than the one between Seiko and Rowing Blazers. Since their initial collaborative release in 2021, they’ve consistently found a way to combine the witty design personality of Rowing Blazers and everything we adore about a steel Seiko sports watch. In timely fashion with Summer just around the corner, Seiko and Rowing Blazers have teamed up once again to deliver a new set of dial colors to their Rowing Blazers x Seiko 5 Sports collection. This new release adds a fresh palette of colors to the entire collection. Like the previous release, the Rowing Blazers x Seiko 5 Sports is supported by three vibrant colors – a pastel pink, deep purple and canary yellow. The three dial colors host a set of black hour markers with T-shaped silver accents. From above, the hour markers look one dimensional, but a side profile reveals an angular quality that slopes towards the center of the dial. The remaining reference in this set is...
Deployant
New: Louis Moinet Savanna Tourbillon – the real jigsaw watches
Louis Moinet creates a real work of art with their new Savanna Tourbillon - with hand painted artisanal dials which are assembled in 4 layers.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Depancel Serie-R 5th Anniversary
Five years is a drop in the ocean for a heritage watchmaker, but for a brand like Depancel the wooden anniversary is truly significant. The spirit of racing runs through them much deeper than their short existence may suggest, and they manage to stand out in a truly flooded market of motoring-inspired watches. Their best … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Depancel Serie-R 5th Anniversary appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Hands On: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph
One of my favorite releases from Watches & Wonders (W&W;) was the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph. Complicated Reversos are almost always interesting given the space constraints and commercial implications in developing rectangular movements, and the Tribute Chronograph is no exception. The new chronograph is a remake of sorts that honours one of the brand’s signature watches from the 1990s. While the original Reverso Chronographe Retrograde was a 500-piece limited edition in pink gold from 1996, the Tribute Chronograph is a regular production watch available in both pink gold or steel. Both versions feature a sun-ray brushed primary dial and partially open-worked chronograph dial on the reverse. Initial thoughts As a fan of the original Reverso chronograph, I am excited to see this concept brought back to life. The key elements that made the original unique, namely the distinct styles of the two faces and the compact, rectangular chronograph movement, have been retained and updated. Both the steel and pink gold references are attractive, but the pink gold version is arguably the most appealing with its gold-on-black livery that brings to mind vintage “gilt” dials. That said, there are a few trade-offs that give me pause. The large case of the Tribute Chronograph is potentially problematic for some wrists, and the simplified dial feels generic (whereas the original had a guilloche dial). I am also conflicted about the movement. On one hand, it’s gre...
Time+Tide
A new three-day movement for the Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Open Heart
Two new variants, the SPB415 and SPB417 join the Seiko Sharp Edged Series The 6R5J movement debuts with 72 hours of power reserve New details can be found on the case finishing and the dial Seiko’s Presage collection is known for its versatility, offering everything from higher-end Masterpiece models to more affordable Cocktail Time timepieces. … ContinuedThe post A new three-day movement for the Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Open Heart appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Changing of the Guard: Bremont Celebrates the Coronation of King Charles III & New Leadership at The Wing
There’s a certain level of homeland pride in every way that Bremont operates. It’s apparent in their designs and palpable throughout their entire company from top to bottom. The Giles brothers have made it their life’s mission to produce beautifully British-made mechanical watches and if there needs to be any more confirmation of how successfully that’s going, then let “The Wing”, Bremont’s vast campus and headquarters in Henley which has subsequently brought watchmaking back to U.K. shores, put any queries to bed. As Bremont ambassador and now friend of Worn & Wound, Alex Bescoby eloquently put it in a recent interview, “Bremont is all about beautifully putting together traditional and British design, and celebrating that.” Well, for the folks living across the pond, there’s lots to celebrate as this past weekend, in front of 2,200 ceremony attendees and millions watching around the world, King Charles III was crowned as Great Britain’s new monarch. It’s only fitting that Bremont, who already has an ongoing partnership with the Ministry of Defence (MoD) to honor His Majesty’s Armed Forces, has released two limited edition models that marks a moment in history with the coronation of His Majesty. The MBII King Charles III Limited Edition largely retains the familiar design cues of the Martin-Baker collection – dual crown configuration, internal rotating bezel, a distinct knurled barrel design and internal case reinforcements. As every other Bremo...
Time+Tide
Time+Tide welcomes microbrand powerhouse Baltic to our shop
Today we’re delighted to announce that the T+T shop is now stocking Baltic, the flagbearers of excellent, affordable design. The French brand lays claim to being the microbrand, launching just over five years ago on Kickstarter, and continuing on its upward trajectory ever since. Baltic’s most-loved designs will be hitting the shop right away, including the two … ContinuedThe post Time+Tide welcomes microbrand powerhouse Baltic to our shop appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Up Close: The IWC Ingenieur 40
One of the most talked-about and contentious releases of the year, the IWC Ingenieur 40 is a reinterpretation of the vintage Ingenieur SL designed by Gérald Genta. By sticking closely to the design of the 1976 original – and thus catering the current fad for integrated-bracelet sports watches – IWC is positioning the Ingenieur as a key part of its line-up, despite several unsuccessful attempts to reboot the collection in recent years. Initial thoughts With past revivals of the Ingenieur diverging further and further from the 1976 model in terms of styling, enthusiasts have been eagerly awaiting the return of the original design. And the recent popularity of integrated bracelets made such a comeback all the more likely. Now the Ingenieur has returned – in undoubtedly the correct guise. Though the design has been well received, there has been criticism of the movement and price. By staying faithful to the original design, the Ingenieur 40 gets it right. The construction shows attention to detail in the essential elements, including the patterned dial and bezel secured by polygonal screws, along with a slim case profile. These elements echo the vintage original, while still making it obvious the Ingenieur 40 is a new design. Despite the visual and tactile appeal, the Ingenieur 40 is burdened with significant drawbacks. The first is the cal. 32111, a movement found in entry-level models like Mark XX, which cost quite a bit less than the Ingenieur 40. Because the cal. ...