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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

Equus Forma Mechanica: The Parmigiani Fleurier Hippologia – Reprise Quill & Pad
Parmigiani Fleurier Hippologia – Reprise One Aug 1, 2020

Equus Forma Mechanica: The Parmigiani Fleurier Hippologia – Reprise

One viewing of the Parmigiani Fleurier Hippologia in action is enough to confirm that its two horses’ gaits seem completely fluid and natural. The Hippologia displays two horses, a mare, and a foal taking a stroll around a Lalique glassware cabinet enclosing the highly complicated automaton and eight-day clock movement. This is an object that needs to be seen to be believed.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: New Seiko divers, sandblasted Octos and a queen of the safe Time+Tide
Seiko divers sandblasted Octos Jul 30, 2020

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: New Seiko divers, sandblasted Octos and a queen of the safe

As the minutes tick ever closer to 6pm, and each member of the Time+Tide team finishes up their work for the week in their respective homes, thoughts turn to very important matters. Such as, what will the knock-off drink of choice be this week? How many blessed days without a Zoom call? And, what is … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: New Seiko divers, sandblasted Octos and a queen of the safe appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Longines Record Australian Limited Edition Time+Tide
Longines Record Australian Limited Edition Jul 30, 2020

HANDS-ON: The Longines Record Australian Limited Edition

The Longines Record Collection is an important pillar of the brand today, representing the clean classicism that is embodied by the brand. The Heritage Collection is popular with the vintage enthusiast, just as the Sport Collection is a favourite of the adventurous type, and the Record Collection is designed to be an everyday companion and … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Longines Record Australian Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: MB&F; x L’Epée x Massena LAB Time+Tide
Massena Lab How can Jul 30, 2020

INTRODUCING: MB&F; x L’Epée x Massena LAB

How can a table clock be desirable? My thought process is well on the way to becoming coherent, meaning Sellable To The Wife. She has a background as a buyer in the oil business, so I can’t tell her that the need for a USD$27,000 non-wearable time piece is driven by desire.  The title of … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: MB&F; x L’Epée x Massena LAB appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Raymond Weil Freelancer RW1212 Green Hands-on Review WatchAdvice
Raymond Weil Freelancer RW1212 Green Hands-on Jul 30, 2020

Raymond Weil Freelancer RW1212 Green Hands-on Review

Earlier in February this year, Raymond Weil unveiled the latest edition in their Freelancer collection. The Freelancer Calibre RW1212 is now available in a green version. Raymond Weil has previously released the Freelancer Calibre RW1212 in different colour variants, which include; blue dial, black dial, rose-gold edition and a black dial with rose gold indices and hands.  So what makes the Freelancer Calibre RW1212 model unique to Raymond Weil? It all comes down to the movement used to create this timepiece. Before the Freelancer Calibre RW1212 came along, Raymond Weil used all outsourced movements in their watches. That was until back in 2017, when Raymond Weil created an exclusive in-house movement in collaboration with Sellita. Sellita, as many may know, is the Swiss movement manufacturer that makes movements for brands around the world.  The development team at Raymond Weil worked together with the designers at Sellita for a period of roughly 18-months, to come up with Raymond Weil’s first in-house movement. Although not entirely in-house, it is still quite a feat for one of the few remaining watch companies that are still family-owned since their establishment.  To mark this momentous occasion for the brand, with the movement being a testament to over 40 years of beautiful Swiss watch-making traditions and expertise, Raymond Weil decided to name the calibre after the brand’s Swiss origins. The 1212 in the movement’s name refers back to the postal code of Ray...

INTRODUCING: The Octo Roma Tourbillon Sapphire Malachite Ref. 103231 is where Bulgari’s two worlds meet Time+Tide
Bulgari s two worlds meet Jul 28, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Octo Roma Tourbillon Sapphire Malachite Ref. 103231 is where Bulgari’s two worlds meet

Bulgari has, for more than a century, been regarded as one of the finest luxury jewellery makers on this blue marble we call earth. Their expertise, attention to detail, passion and visionary design has resulted in some of the most stunning pieces of jewellery and objet d’art imaginable. As such, throughout the 20th century, the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Octo Roma Tourbillon Sapphire Malachite Ref. 103231 is where Bulgari’s two worlds meet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Sandblast-Polished Ceramic, as liquid black as Darth Vader’s helmet Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Sandblast-Polished Ceramic Jul 27, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Sandblast-Polished Ceramic, as liquid black as Darth Vader’s helmet

Often, it is incremental and deliberate design progress - slow to the point that the casual observer might not even notice it - that creates the best products. Tiny changes, layered on one another year after year, are the key to creating an unmistakable visual identity that stands the test of time. It’s a blueprint that … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Sandblast-Polished Ceramic, as liquid black as Darth Vader’s helmet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

“Is this watch over or under $15 million?” – Floyd Mayweather plays “The Ice Is Right” with Greg Yüna Time+Tide
Jul 26, 2020

“Is this watch over or under $15 million?” – Floyd Mayweather plays “The Ice Is Right” with Greg Yüna

Floyd Mayweather looks straight down the barrel of the camera as he waves around a watch that’s not so much dripping in diamonds as drenched to its blinding core. The watch is the Jacob & Co Billionaire watch, a one-of-a-kind piece produced with Italian businessman, fashion label owner and Formula 1 personality Flavio Briatore. The … ContinuedThe post “Is this watch over or under $15 million?” – Floyd Mayweather plays “The Ice Is Right” with Greg Yüna appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Resonance Watches Compared: F.P. Journe vs. Armin Strom vs. Beat Haldimann, And The Pros And Cons Of Each Quill & Pad
F.P. Journe vs Armin Strom vs Jul 26, 2020

Resonance Watches Compared: F.P. Journe vs. Armin Strom vs. Beat Haldimann, And The Pros And Cons Of Each

Many people believe resonance to be very rare, when in fact every single timekeeping device (yes, even quartz) is a resonant mechanism. But clocks and watches featuring resonance as we generally understand it in watchmaking are few and far between. In the last few decades, less than a handful of highly skilled watchmakers have taken up the challenge of creating a resonance watch. Here, Joshua Munchow looks at the pros and cons of the different approaches taken by the three leaders in this technology.

INTRODUCING: The Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon AeroGMT II is American-style Pepsi, bigger, bolder Time+Tide
Ball Watch Company Jul 25, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon AeroGMT II is American-style Pepsi, bigger, bolder

Editor’s note: The Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon AeroGMT II USA-only edition is available now in the Time+Tide marketplace, alongside the Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon Original, a vintage-styled diver with some similar muscle.  The Ball Watch Company is a brand founded on the principles of practical and robust solutions to timekeeping problems. They were established in the United … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon AeroGMT II is American-style Pepsi, bigger, bolder appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Linde Werdelin Introduces the Oktopus MoonLite SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Though Jul 25, 2020

Linde Werdelin Introduces the Oktopus MoonLite

One of the most established newer brands in the sports watch space, Linde Werdelin was founded 14 years ago and made its name with mechanical watches featuring a removable digital module with dedicated functions for activities like diving and climbing. Now entirely focused on purely mechanical watches, the brand’s latest is a dive watch with an unusual complication – the limited-edition Oktopus MoonLite. Based on the existing Oktopus Moon, the MoonLite is distinguished by the case material, which is made of Alloy Linde Werdelin. Initial thoughts The Oktopus MoonLite is very much in the usual Linde Werdelin style, which is a futuristic, aggressive look that brings to mind watches like the Grand Seiko SBGA405 Godzilla 65th Anniversary and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept. Though large at 44 mm wide, the watch will no doubt be light thanks to the case material. And the color of the case goes exceptionally well with that of the dial, which results in an avant-garde watch that is also the most legible of the Oktopus Moon models to date. Priced at a little over US$14,000 – quite a lot of money for what it is – the Oktopus MoonLite perhaps justifiably priced considering the limited production and proprietary case material. Nonetheless, the bold styling and “indie” status of Linde Werdelin make the MoonLite an unusual proposition – an oversized, contemporary sports watch from an independent brand, which will appeal to collectors who enjoy luxury-sports watch...

RGM Watch Company: American In-House Manufacturing Case Study – Reprise Quill & Pad
RGM Jul 25, 2020

RGM Watch Company: American In-House Manufacturing Case Study – Reprise

Since its beginning, RGM has created dials and movement components to manufacture its watches. Over the years, the brand has expanded its capabilities bit by bit, adding machinery, technology, and personnel in an effort to have greater control over production and to expand its design and engineering options. Follow us on a tour of the RGM workshop in Mount Joy, Pennsylvania.

Exhibition: Vacheron Constantin Sports Watches in Singapore SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Sports Watches Jul 24, 2020

Exhibition: Vacheron Constantin Sports Watches in Singapore

Vacheron Constantin is staging an exhibition in Singapore dedicated to its sports watches spanning the 20th century history. Best known for the Overseas sports watch, now in its third generation, Vacheron Constantin has curated a compact selection of six timepieces illustrating the development of the sports timekeeper. An 1998 magazine advertisement for the first-generation Overseas The exhibition starts with watches from the 1940s, including a chronometer pocket watch in the style of military deck watches. But the highlight, at least from a design perspective, is the 222, the brand’s first luxury-sports watch. Designed by Jorg Hysek, the 222 made its debut in 1977, the year of the brand’s 222th anniversary. Featuring a notched bezel and integrated bracelet, it was very much in the style of the decade. The 222 line up The watches are on display at the brand’s boutique at the Marina Bay Sands casino-resort, which is also marking its 10th anniversary. Exhibition information The Origin of Vacheron Constantin Sports Elegance In Watchmaking July 13 to August 24, 2020 Vacheron Constantin Marina Bay Sands Boutique 2 Bayfront Avenue #B2M-238 Singapore 018972 Opening Hours: 11:30 am to 8:00 pm, Monday to Sunday  

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Balls, death, Dan Henry’s 1937 and Bulgari’s best Time+Tide
Bulgari s best Friday has Jul 24, 2020

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Balls, death, Dan Henry’s 1937 and Bulgari’s best

Friday has come around with lightning speed this week. And hot on the heels of our story last week about James Murdoch buying into Baselworld’s parent company, MCH, comes the news that a new show, called “HourUniverse” will debut in April 2021 in Basel. Yes, timed perfectly to align with the newly announced Watches & … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Balls, death, Dan Henry’s 1937 and Bulgari’s best appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGE253, SBGE257 and SBGE255 – 3 GMTs with colour, curves and cutting-edge tech Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGE253 SBGE257 Jul 23, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGE253, SBGE257 and SBGE255 – 3 GMTs with colour, curves and cutting-edge tech

Twenty-seven … that’s how many watches Grand Seiko have already unveiled this year. And that’s not really an accurate statement – 27 new watches have been released to the Australian market. If you include limited editions, boutique editions and models from other regions, the number is closer to 40. The wheels may well have fallen off … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGE253, SBGE257 and SBGE255 – 3 GMTs with colour, curves and cutting-edge tech appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

#WRUW – Time+Tide readers share their best wrist shots and it’s root beer all-round… Time+Tide
Rolex GMT-Master II Root Beer Jul 22, 2020

#WRUW – Time+Tide readers share their best wrist shots and it’s root beer all-round…

A couple of weeks ago, in a moment of sheer lockdown boredom, Andrew snapped a shot of his Rolex GMT-Master II Root Beer with the caption #WRUW, which no doubt we all know is an acronym for ‘What are you wearing?’ But not, in any way, referring to clothing. Watches only. In the truly spirited … ContinuedThe post #WRUW – Time+Tide readers share their best wrist shots and it’s root beer all-round… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Longines Introduces the Avigation Watch Type A-7 1935 SJX Watches
Longines Introduces Jul 22, 2020

Longines Introduces the Avigation Watch Type A-7 1935

One of Longines’ longest-lived vintage remakes, the Type A-7 was inspired by a 1930s aviator’s chronograph made for the US Army Air Corps. Having been offered with a white dial, and also a bronze-case limited edition, the Avigation Watch Type A-7 1935 now makes its debut in a guise closest to the vintage original. Initial thoughts The earlier version of the Type A-7 was already a likeable watch. Affordably priced and well designed, the Type A-7 managed to much convey the look of the original without being a one-for-one remake. And in contrast to the first-generation remake that was 49 mm in diameter – essentially the same size as the vintage original – the Type A-7 was a wearable 41 mm. But the faux-vintage “lume” was a bit much, and the white lacquer finish of the dial took away some of the military-instrument aesthetic. The Type A-7 with a white dial that was introduced in 2016 The new Type A-7 remedies all of that with a black dial and less-pronounced colour for the Super-Luminova. Though it still has a date window that gets in the way of the design, the new Type A-7 still works well and remains a strong value buy. As an aside, Longines did make a similar-looking, limited edition Type A-7 for the American market two years ago that did away with the date display. Off the vertical The vintage original had a dial rotated 40 degrees from the vertical, in order to allow pilots to read the time or operate the chronograph without taking their hands off the control ...

Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph Review WatchAdvice
Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph Review Jul 22, 2020

Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph Review

The modern gentleman is someone who tries to experience life to the fullest. For some, the glory is the destination, but for others who truly experience life, it’s about the journey reaching that destination and the many different experiences that come along the way. Always being open to trying new things, the modern man finds innovative ways to get the most out of his life. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Collection released in 2018 was created to complement this lifestyle by being an elegant yet sporty watch that can do it all.  Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Polaris Collection was inspired by their iconic Memovox Polaris watch from 1968. The Polaris Collection will join the brands’ exiting pillars which consist of; Reverso, Master Collection, Rendez-vous, Duometre and Hybris Mechanica. Jaeger-LeCoultre, however, didn’t only create one timepiece as a homage to the 1968 Memovox Polaris. They used the aesthetics, design cues and spirit of the 1968 timepiece to bring to life five new timepieces that form the overall Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Collection. These timepieces are the three-hand automatic, chronograph, chronograph world time and two models that have very close ties to the original Memovox Polaris; the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Date and the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Memovox. What we have on our hands is the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph in steel. The Polaris Chronograph comes in three variants; black dial, blue dial and a pink gold version. The black and blue dials a...

The Massandra Collection Crimean Wine That Screams Place And History. And What A Story It Tells! Quill & Pad
Jul 21, 2020

The Massandra Collection Crimean Wine That Screams Place And History. And What A Story It Tells!

Somewhere in the disorganized depths of Ken Gargett's cellar lies his favorite bottle of wine. It is almost certainly not his best bottle, nor even possibly his most valuable. It is a bottle that screams place and history. It tells a story and it links him to an extraordinary moment in time when three of the planet’s most famous leaders met to determine the fate of the world. That wine is the Massandra Collection White Muscat 1945 and here is its story.

In-depth: Time Consciousness and Discipline in the Industrial Revolution SJX Watches
Jul 21, 2020

In-depth: Time Consciousness and Discipline in the Industrial Revolution

One of the most indelible scenes from Modern Times, the 1936 Charlie Chaplin film about the dreary life of an oppressed factory worker in Depression-era America, has Chaplin’s character strapped to a contraption that feeds him automatically, leaving his hands free to continue working on the assembly line below the dining platform. In the film, the scientists behind the feeding machine market it to the factory owner as “a practical device which automatically feeds your men while at work. Don’t stop for lunch: be ahead of your competitor. The Billows Feeding Machine will eliminate the lunch hour, increase your production, and decrease your overhead.” The “Billows Feeding Machine” in Modern Times While Modern Times was a caricature of a factory worker’s life, the film contains much truth, especially in how it illustrated the burgeoning preoccupation with time during the Industrial Revolution. An era marked by drastic shifts in culture, economics, politics, and technology, the Industrial Revolution was also characterised by an evolution in how time was perceived. Propelled by the needs of industry, time as a concept became synonymous with profit. Eventually growing to permeate all levels of society and industry, this time consciousness had a profound impact on the world that continues today. A landscape of factories Predominantly agrarian and rural societies were transformed during the Industrial Revolution, becoming industrialised and urbanised. This started in...

IN-DEPTH: The Omega Planet Ocean Vs. the Omega Seamaster 300, is there a winner? Time+Tide
Omega Planet Ocean Vs Jul 20, 2020

IN-DEPTH: The Omega Planet Ocean Vs. the Omega Seamaster 300, is there a winner?

Since 1948, Omega have been perfecting their formula for conquering the sea. What began as a splash-proof dress watch, quickly spiralled into a race for innovation amongst Switzerland’s finest as to who could plunge the deepest depths and still tell the time. The Seamaster line is Omega’s crown jewel in technical achievement and design, with … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The Omega Planet Ocean Vs. the Omega Seamaster 300, is there a winner? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife Watch SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces Jul 20, 2020

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife Watch

Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) teamed up with online menswear purveyor Mr Porter to create a wristwatch for the upcoming retro spy film The King’s Man, where the heroes are mainly sharply-dressed spies with canes and signet rings. Set in the years before the First World War, the film doubtlessly called for a watch that is seemingly period-correct – yet obviously one that would appeal to the today’s consumer. The result is the Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife Watch, a razor-thin, 4.25 mm wristwatch that takes inspiration from a vintage ultra-thin pocket watch. Initial thoughts At a glance, the watch might seem like a conventional but handsome dress watch. But the case design is outstanding – and compared to JLC’s recent creations, dramatically different.  The case is round with a wide, double-stepped bezel, a feature that gives it an old-school, classic feel. And the stepped bezel also adds presence so that the case doesn’t look too flat. And more unusually, the crown is at 12 o’clock and protected by a triangular bow. And the reason for the crown position is the fact that the watch is essentially a pocket watch with lugs. The origins of the design lie in a 1907 Jaeger-LeCoultre pocket watch, nicknamed “couteau” – French for “knife” – after its thin case with a sharp edge. That said, the “couteau” pocket watch is arguably more widely associated with Cartier, which relied on LeCoultre movements for its watches, which were made by the European Watch & C...