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Introducing the 2021 Omega Aqua Terra Collection
Omega is working through all of its collections in 2021 with major updates and addition, up next is an update to the Aqua Terra
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EDITOR’S PICK: The ultimate dad-watch is the Full Metal G-Shock GMW-B5000V
Editor’s note: Having kids make you think about watches differently. Not so much in the manner of potential heirloom appraisal. More that durability and scratch-resistance quickly become more urgent priorities when you’re trying to avoid copping one in the knackers from an excitable three-year who’s whirling a toy lightsaber with deadly intent. Luckily, Andrew has … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: The ultimate dad-watch is the Full Metal G-Shock GMW-B5000V appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces the Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5374G
Patek Philippe keeps up the pace with the fourth instalment of new releases for the year, which were just announced at its annual Rare Handcrafts Exhibition in Geneva. While most of the watches at the exhibition are one-offs bestowed with colourful, artisanal decoration, the line up includes an ensemble of repeating watches, led by the flamboyant Sky Moon Tourbillon in pink gold and brown. Simpler, at least relatively speaking, is the Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5374G that packs a pair of high-end complications fronted by a blue, grand feu enamel dial. Initial thoughts Today’s launches stand in stark contrast to the brand’s hottest watches of the moment – the sports watches that are arguably its most recognisable products now – that were its opening act for the year. Patek Philippe launched a slew of exquisite, highly decorated timepieces today, affirming its twin strengths – haute horlogerie and metiers d’art. The generous array of Rare Handcrafts, along with the fact that several are chiming watches, is a reminder that Patek Philippe is more than a faddish, integrated-bracelet sports watch. That said, the ref. 5374 is not entirely new (neither is the flagship Sky Moon Tourbillon ref. 6002R). In fact, the only truly new reference amongst the Rare Handcrafts complications is the Ladies Minute Repeater ref. 7040/250G. The ref. 5374 was first introduced in 2016 with a platinum case and black enamel dial – a formal, classical package. Now it ge...
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces the Ladies’ Minute Repeater Ref. 7040/250G
While the Sky Moon Tourbillon introduced at the same time is bold and over the top, the Rare Handcrafts Ladies’ Minute Repeater ref. 7040/250G is graceful and delicately detailed. Now the only minute repeater for ladies in the catalogue, the ref. 7040/250G features a dial with spiral guilloche covered in translucent enamel, match with unusual, spear-shaped hands and markers. Initial thoughts The ref. 7040/250G is surprisingly reminiscent of Patek Philippe’s men’s watch of the 1990s with its “officer’s” case. In fact, that case is quite close to that of the ref. 5029, the limited-edition minute repeater made in 1997 to commemorate the opening of its factory in Plans-les-Ouates. That resemblance is a good thing, because the ref. 5029 was an elegant, classical watch. The new repeater shares similar lines, but has been tastefully dressed up as a ladies watch with a diamond bezel and guilloche dial. The dial is a first for Patek Philippe, and certainly good looking. There’s a hint of Laurent Ferrier design in the dial, but again, the resemblance isn’t a bad thing. All in all, the ref. 7040/250G is an all-rounder – a pretty watch with a finely detailed dial and a complex movement. Svelte dimensions Slightly larger than the preceding minute repeater for ladies (the ref. 7000 that was 33.7 mm), the ref. 7040/250G has a case of 18k white gold that measures just 36 mm by 10.14 mm high – more or less the dimensions the men’s minute repeater of the 1990s. The rou...
Revolution
Introducing the Breitling Endurance Pro IRONMAN®
The new watches evoke the strength and endurance that characterizes triathletes in the grueling competition.
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Patek Philippe Introduces the Sky Moon Tourbillon Ref. 6002R
At the opening of its annual Rare Handcrafts Exhibition in Geneva, Patek Philippe took the covers off a suite of watches and clocks decorated with artisanal techniques, including a new version of its ultra-fancy grand complication, the Sky Moon Tourbillon Ref. 6002R. First offered in blue enamel, and then black, the Sky Moon Tourbillon ref. 6002 was the most complicated wristwatch in Patek Philippe’s catalogue, until the Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300 and Grand Sonnerie ref. 6301. But the Sky Moon Tourbillon remains the most ornately decorated amongst its peers, with every surface of the case – and even the hands – engraved with arabesques and the dial in cloisonné enamel. Initial thoughts Enormous at 44 mm wide and over 17 mm high, the Sky Moon Tourbillon is an expensive, complex wristwatch that looks, well, expensive and complex. It’s often a statement piece for the segment of clients who find a Richard Mille affordable but unrefined, the new rose-gold variant makes sense. The metal is the most popular for high-end watches, globally but especially in Asia. It is warmer and richer, making the watch seem even more luxe – a useful characteristic in watch like this. The rationale for the Sky Moon Tourbillon in rose gold is clear. As a watch, I am certain it will be impressive, probably even more impressive than the earlier versions of the watch due to its brighter colours. It’s too baroque – and of course unaffordable – for most, but the target demographic w...
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Announcing the ‘Pink Dial Project’ – an auction of pink prototypes in aid of breast cancer
The watch industry has always had a charitable streak, but never as conspicuously as it does today. Charity auctions have been a key part of the industry’s calendar for years, with the Only Watch Auction that raises money for Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy, earning headlines for the watches if offers and the money it contributes. Lately … ContinuedThe post Announcing the ‘Pink Dial Project’ – an auction of pink prototypes in aid of breast cancer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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De Bethune Introduces the DB25GMT Starry Varius
While the pandemic is not entirely in the rearview mirror yet, international travel is recovering slowly but surely, so De Bethune’s latest arrives at an opportune time. The DB25GMT Starry Varius is a gently updated version of its dual time zone wristwatch – smaller, thinner, and lighter than the original, while also sporting the brand’s trademark “Starry Night” dial. More classical than the brand’s best-known models like the DB28 or DW5, the DB25GMT nonetheless incorporates details that are quintessentially De Bethune in addition to the celestial motif dial, helping it stand out amongst dual-time watches. Initial thoughts If money was no object, the first watch I would buy is my “grail”, the De Bethune DB25 Starry Varius Tourbillon. It has an ethereal quality and technical innovations that capture both the mind and heart. Unsurprisingly, I love the DB25GMT Starry Varius, which has a similar style but is more practical. The star-studded dial is a modest upgrade, but one that significantly improves the aesthetics of the brand’s original dual time-zone watch that was launched in 2016. Matching it with a travel-time complication makes sense as a historical reference, since explorers once depended on the stars for navigation – making the design feel like a match made in heaven (pun intended). The multiple-part dial gives the watch visual depth despite the clean layout, certainly making it one of the most captivating travel watches. But the new dual ...
Revolution
Introducing Ulysse Nardin’s Diver Lemon Shark
In honor of World Ocean Day, the Le Locle brand launched the limited-edition Diver Lemon Shark, a 42mm Diver designed specifically for the deep.
Time+Tide
Is the vintage Cartier boom here to stay?
We’ve grown used to seeing jaw-dropping auction results for two brands: Rolex and Patek Philippe. But recently, the prices of one French-founded jewellery and watchmaking house have begun to climb. That’s right, Cartier is hot, with prices rising not only across the more common models, but also the top lots in auction catalogues. But what … ContinuedThe post Is the vintage Cartier boom here to stay? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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INTRODUCING: The Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 41.5mm
Divers are among the most popular watches on the market, if not the most popular, due to their highly robust builds and familiar aesthetic. As a result, the segment is highly competitive and brands now have to find fresh ways to draw interest to their references. Fully aware of this trend, Oris has really begun … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 41.5mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Vacheron Constantin Reopens Flagship New York Boutique
Announced last year and finally complete, Vacheron Constantin’s flagship boutique in the United States just opened today in Manhattan on 57th Street, just as New York City is coming back to life post-pandemic with summer around the corner. Replacing its former location uptown at the corner of East 64th Street and Madison Avenue – which was the brand’s first boutique in the country – the new store is quite literally bigger and better. The brand’s former space was a one-story location in a quieter neighbourhood, but now its home is a two-storey building with an interior spanning 4,500 square feet, and neighbours that include several notable watchmakers and retailers, including Richard Mille and Audemars Piguet. The new boutique is also the opening act for Alexander Schmiedt, who was recently tapped to lead Vacheron Constantin in the Americas. A watch-industry lifer whose family has roots in the business, Mr Schmiedt was formerly head of Vacheron Constantin in the Middle East, and prior to that the chief of Montblanc’s watch division. Open plan and welcoming The relocated store is kitted out with a new-look interior that slightly more contemporary than the outgoing decor that was heavy on dark wood. Characterised by golden hues and geometric shapes, the store has airy, floor-to-ceiling windows that reveal the rich colours inside, along with a selection of watches that are dangerously inviting. In a nod to the brand’s long presence in the United States, the bouti...
Deployant
Vacheron Constantin opens new Flagship boutique in New York City
Vacheron Constantin opens the new Flagship boutique in New York City. And show cases a new piece unqiue Americain 1921 to celebrate.
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Corum Marks 10 Years of the Golden Bridge Automatic
While known for unorthodox designs such as the Coin, Bubble and Admiral’s Cup, Corum’s piece de resistance is the Golden Bridge. Devised by independent watchmaker and ACHI co-founder Vincent Calabrese in 1980, the delicate, elongated movement remains a watchmaking feat. In 2011, Corum debuted the automatic Golden Bridge movement that was wound by an innovative weight that slid on rails. To celebrate the decade since that milestone, Corum has created the 10th Anniversary Golden Bridge Automatic, which puts the movement within a larger case with a wraparound sapphire crystal. Initial thoughts I’m not the biggest fan of Corum’s better known designs, which are often oversized and ostentatious. The exception is the Golden Bridge, which is to Corum what the Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges is to Girard-Perregaux – a movement defined by its construction and aesthetics. I’ve always liked the Golden Bridge – the baguette shape is not only unique, but also a mechanical marvel. The automatic Golden Bridge further stands out for its vertical winding mass, instead of a traditional rotor. My pick of the collection Starting at about US$35,000 in titanium, the 10th Anniversary Golden Bridge Automatic is actually rather well-priced, considering the movement. In fact, the new anniversary models are priced lower than their 2011 counterparts. The watch is available in either titanium or titanium and rose gold, along with diamond-set variants Smoked Sapphire Like the original...
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OK, we’re calling it: the Mido Ocean Star GMT is the best value Swiss GMT around
Value, presence and durability. These three factors are pretty important in the $1500 – $2000 price segment, and with the tough 44mm Mido Ocean Star GMT, I’m struggling to find any unticked boxes. I could happily live with this comfortable 44mm case, even if its diameter is on the beefy side, because it fits the … ContinuedThe post OK, we’re calling it: the Mido Ocean Star GMT is the best value Swiss GMT around appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
RGM Model 25 Custom “Kauai”: Say Aloha To Extreme Guilloche
RGM Model 25 “Kauai” features waves depicting the Pacific Ocean carefully engraved with a hand-powered guilloche machine. These waves surround a gently brushed and laser-engraved map of the Hawaiian island of Kaua’i. But instead of the geometrically repeated patterns of typical guilloche, the waves follow in random formations, just as they are in nature. The effect is simply stunning, making this customized unique piece a real treasure.
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Breguet Introduces New Looks for the Marine in Titanium or Gold
Perhaps the epitome of formal, classical style, Breguet took a more modern direction when it revamped the Marine in 2018, giving its line of sports watches a sportier and cleaner aesthetic. The overhauled Marine was launched in three models: the entry-level Marine 5517 (which we did a hands-on review of), the Marine Chronographe 5527, and the top-of-the-line Marine Alarme Musicale 5547. Three years on, Breguet is gently facelifting the Marine Collection with new variants in titanium or rose gold – blue dials for the titanium models and slate-grey for rose gold. Initial thoughts Although not the most novel – these are just new case and dial combinations – the facelifted Marine watches are nevertheless noteworthy simply because they look substantially better. For one, the blue dials on the titanium models are eminently more striking than the mid-grey of the 2018 models, which gave them a more industrial feel. At the same time, the sunburst finishing is more obvious in blue. And pairing of blue and titanium is also unusual, as Breguet usually reserves blue dials for its white gold watches. The Marine in titanium and blue Similarly, the new slate-grey dials for the rose gold models give them more character than the original versions in silver that lacked contrast. The juxtaposition between the warm case metal and the cool dial is intriguing and eye-catching. And the colour and brings out the wave guilloché better. Starting at US$17,300 for the ref. 5517 in titaniu...
Time+Tide
What jewellery to wear with your watch (according to Jeff Goldblum’s stylist)
Our European editor, Mike Christensen, teams up with Andrew Vottero – Jeff Goldblum’s personal stylist – to help fellow timepiece aficionados ensure any bling they wear is complementing their watches and not detracting from them. We all love watches, that much we can agree on. But are we wearing them correctly with other pieces of … ContinuedThe post What jewellery to wear with your watch (according to Jeff Goldblum’s stylist) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
New Corum Golden Bridge Automatic For 2021: Linear Winding Never Looked So Good
Of all the watches extoling the virtues of the mechanical movement, no other piece does it as simply, cleanly, or in as straightforward a manner as the Corum Golden Bridge. The 10-year-anniversary version of the Golden Bridge Automatic sees some aesthetic changes made to its avant-garde case, and in particular the iconic sapphire crystal.
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Review: new Panerai Luminor Chrono Luna Rossa PAM01303
The thickness and weight of a the watch may be even more amplified in a high intensity sport situation such as sailing. That said, the Panerai Luminor Chrono Luna Rossa is still a good looking timepiece suitable for a leisurely yacht weekend trip for a wearer that doesn't have to wrestle with the mast and sails or steer vigorously.
Quill & Pad
Complete Overview Of The Jaeger-LeCoultre Amvox Collection – Reprise
Aston Martin was originally partnered with Jaeger-LeCoultre for 12 years before moving on to first Richard Mille then TAG Heuer and finally Girard-Perregaux. During that dozen years, the JLC Amvox line produced some very interesting timepieces. Here, Elizabeth Doerr provides background to the the sporty Jaeger-LeCoultre Amvox line and lists off every single creation introduced in it during that time.
Time+Tide
HANDS ON: The Grand Seiko GMT Seasons Collection – Japanese dial mastery inspired by nature
As you might know, I am a bit of a dial fetishist, so when faced with a new limited collection from Grand Seiko, the risk is always there – that fear of repeating myself or getting so carried away that I overreach and baffle you with new adjectives that I’ve accidentally made up in an … ContinuedThe post HANDS ON: The Grand Seiko GMT Seasons Collection – Japanese dial mastery inspired by nature appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Should you get buried wearing a favourite watch or is it the ultimate waste of time?
Jazz legend Miles Davis was buried with one of his beloved trumpets nestling by his side. The Beat Generation novelist William Burroughs was laid to rest with a loaded revolver, a sword cane, a ballpoint pen, a fedora and a joint. Frank Sinatra’s coffin meanwhile included a bottle of Jack Daniel’s, a pack of Camel … ContinuedThe post Should you get buried wearing a favourite watch or is it the ultimate waste of time? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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RECOMMENDED WATCHING: Unboxing the Audemars Piguet Black Panther with Anthony Joshua
When it was first announced that Audemars Piguet and Marvel would be collaborating on a watch, social media lit up with criticism of the project. Yet only a couple of months later, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept “Black Panther” Flying Tourbillon has been seen on the wrists of more taste makers than you can … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED WATCHING: Unboxing the Audemars Piguet Black Panther with Anthony Joshua appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
George Daniels Millennium Wristwatch With High Estimate Of £300,000 To Be Auctioned By Bonhams
With auction prices soaring, it’s a good time for an auction house to be offering rare timepieces by the world’s best independent watchmakers. George Daniels and Roger Smith made a series of 50 Millennium wristwatches back in 1999, and Bonhams is now offering one in its sale on June 16, 2021 with a high estimate of £300,000. Don't be surprised if it goes for much more than that, though.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: The Grand Seiko GMT Seasons Collection is a dial fetishist’s dream come true
The last release of the Grand Seiko GMT Seasons Collection provoked extreme jealousy all around the world. The reason for this is that it was only available in the USA, which seemed dreadfully unfair for the rest of us. Thankfully, the collection is now back and this time it’s available for all. Despite the prodigious … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Grand Seiko GMT Seasons Collection is a dial fetishist’s dream come true appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711/1A: Meditations on the last in the series to be made in steel, now with an olive green dial
We meditate on values and features of the latest Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711/1A-014 in olive green dial - the last of the steel Nautilus species..
Revolution
Women We Love: Jessica Owens of New York
Jessica “J.J.” Owens, who started collecting watches at the age of 14, shares with us her ethos and approach as well as her unwavering passion for vintage Rolex.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The dark panache of the Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Bol d’Or Mirabaud
The Bol d’Or Mirabaud is the world’s biggest inland lake regatta, running the length of Lake Geneva, and Hublot is celebrating its eighth consecutive year as official timekeeper, with a brand new version of its 45mm Classic Fusion Chronograph, the Classic Fusion Chronograph Bol d’Or Mirabaud. Hublot knows how to pluck at our heartstrings, with … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The dark panache of the Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Bol d’Or Mirabaud appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Seiko Prospex 1986 Quartz Diver’s 35th Anniversary Limited Edition
1,000m of water-resistance and a bullet-proof quartz movement - all the overbuilt durability a saturation diver could ask for.