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Two Broke Watch Snobs
Today the watch world was stunned when word got out that Swatch and Omega have collaborated to bring us a set of 11 new, affordably-priced "Speedmasters." Now, considering the available color options, the proprietary BioCeramic cases, and reliable quartz movements - it's clear that these will be a hit with everyone from budget-conscious collectors to hardcore Speedy fanatics.
Hodinkee
Out-of-focus brand service or tack-sharp watchmaking?
SJX Watches
Urwerk founders Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei visited Singapore in September 2019 and we had lunch with at the Marriott along Singapore’s Orchard Road, sitting outdoors to enjoy Singapore’s uniquely tropical weather. Thanks to an inspiring afternoon with the pair, it was just after that lunch that I first mooted the idea of a UR-100 with a cover over the front. I sent over this awful mock-up I created on Photoshop, which was clearly inspired by the UR-103, an old favourite of mine. After a back and forth with Felix and Martin, and a few long pauses in between, an idea took shape. In June 2020, I further refined the idea in an email to the pair, “I have an idea of a watch inspired by the ancient Mayan astronaut myth… something like an UR-100, but with metal covering more of the face… with an engraved Mayan pattern…”. The starting point A serious watch with a sense of humour is something that appeals to me, so the rationale for the concept was tongue in cheek: Urwerk makes sci-fi watches, so a Mayan motif was perfect since it was once believed the first person in space was a Mayan astronaut. The myth arose from a misinterpretation of the motif on a Mayan ruler’s sarcophagus (you can find out more about supposed ancient astronaut by reading up on “Kʼinich Janaabʼ Pakal“). Not long after, I elaborated on the idea and suggested a yellow gold case with an emerald cabochon in the crown. Unfortunately that was not to be (although some green did make it ...
Revolution
Longines introduces a rugged multi-time zone watch in time for the resumption of “travel as usual”.
Time+Tide
The Longines Spirit collection was one of the most instantly successful new watch releases from a big brand in years, with not a single detail out of place. It’s almost as if Longines read the collective consciousness of the world’s watch fanatics and crafted the perfect pilot-style watch, with just the right amount of vintage … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Longines Spirit Zulu Time collection is upgraded with a COSC-certified GMT calibre appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Revolution takes a walk through the imagination of Antoine Pin and Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani with their eighth world record, the world’s thinnest mechanical watch that pushes the boundaries of physical design and explores the frontier of a digital landscape unlike anything we’ve seen before.
SJX Watches
A year ago, Citizen debuted its first all new, high-end mechanical watch in decades, The Citizen Caliber 0200. A wristwatch par excellence, the Caliber 0200 was so good that it was one of our tops watches of 2021. Now Citizen is following up with the Caliber 0200 “Japanese Armour”, the first limited edition of the model that’s available globally. Topped with a black ceramic bezel and textured dial, the samurai-inspired Caliber 0200 has a low-key aesthetic that still distinguishes it from the all-steel models. Initial thoughts Even though production hasn’t yet caught up with demand – there’s still a waiting list for the watch – the Caliber 0200 is still a niche product, just because it is a high-end, mechanical offering from a brand better known for its solar-powered or quartz watches, and mostly affordable ones at that. So a limited edition makes sense, since the small run will boost desirability and create buzz worldwide (Citizen did launch a 50-piece limited edition last year that was sold only in Japan). That said, the new edition is still very much a restrained design that’s almost monochromatic. It’ll be one of those watches that are recognised only by those in the know. Interestingly, both the new limited edition and the standard model stick to the same palette – grey, silver, and black – with the difference between the two being the quantity and intensity of each colour. On the limited edition, black becomes the dominant colour thanks to the ...
SJX Watches
One of Citizen’s earlier dive watches, the Challenge Diver of 1977 is rated to 150 m – but it evidently can withstand more than pressure under water. In 1983, a long-submerged example was discovered at Long Reef Beach in Sydney, Australia. And despite being encrusted with barnacles, it was in working condition according to Citizen. Now Citizen revisits the Challenge Diver – and memorialises the barnacle-covered watch – with the Promaster Mechanical Diver 200m “Fujitsubo”. The new watch retains the retro design and dimensions but has been thoroughly upgraded with modern materials and mechanics, including a titanium case and movement resistant to magnetic fields of up to 16,000 A/m (or about 200 Gauss). Initial thoughts While the new launch is headlined by an interesting story, the watch itself is appealing, especially for its slim proportions and affordability. At 41 mm wide and 12.3 mm tall, the Fujitsubo is one of the thinnest dive watches in this price segment. In fact, it’s even thinner than the vintage original. And it’s also slimmer than its most obvious rival, the Seiko 1965 Diver’s Modern Re-Interpretations “62MAS”, which is about 1 mm taller. And it will also be lightweight. As is convention for most of Citizen’s mid-range dive watches, the case is Super Titanium, the brand’s proprietary alloy that has undergone surface hardening, leaving it five times more scratch resistant than steel. Visually, the Fujitsubo is simple and almost gene...
Time+Tide
Usually the hottest watches of the year have huge launch events, major press conferences and keynotes, and sizable social media and marketing campaigns. But last year, like Beyonce dropping a surprise album, the team at MB&F; introduced one of the most desired timepieces of the year – except it was not a watch just anyone … ContinuedThe post The new M.A.D.1 RED brings the coveted MB&F; project to a wider audience appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Consumers in this day and age are all too familiar with the finished products of watch manufacturers thanks to digital watch media, whether from publications such as ours, social media, or forums. But, it is not always the case that consumers are offered a final product that leverages the origins of its design. To celebrate … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo 10th Anniversary Limited Editions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
The latest democratic creation from the mind-melting magician of the avant-garde.
SJX Watches
After notching up several world records for the thinnest watch in various categories, Bulgari had yet to claim the title of the thinnest mechanical watch. Piaget took the title in 2018 with the announcement of the AUC, which became commercially available in 2020. But the Roman jeweller has finally bested its rivals with the Octo Finissimo Ultra, which is an astonishing 1.8 mm tall from crystal to case back, making it the thinnest watch on the market today (and also the thinnest in decades). It’s 0.2 mm slimmer than the Piaget AUC. The Ultra is certainly less, but is it more accomplished? Initial thoughts Trumping the previous title holder by a sizeable margin of 10%, the Octo Finissimo Ultra is an impressive achievement, even though the race to the be the flattest has been ongoing for a long time. For starters, the Ultra does well in terms of design. While the design is based on the long standing Octo Finissimo, it doesn’t take away from its appeal. The Ultra is the sportiest watch among the thinnest of ultra-thin watches, with striking contemporary lines. And it is very much a watch of today, literally. The large barrel ratchet wheel is engraved with a QR code providing access to an NFT artwork that accompanies each watch. It is tacky both as an idea and also up close, but at a distance the pattern of the code could pass for a decorative motif that fills up what would otherwise be a wide open space. Keeping current But the burning question is how did Bulgari’s ...
Time+Tide
Curiouser and curiouser. Yesterday I posted a story about Anthony “the Blue Wiggle” Field and how he’s been repeatedly spotted wearing the ultimate IT watch, a Patek Philippe Tiffany Blue. The story generated a real buzz on the T+T site as Anthony is, of course, a founding member of the beloved kid’s entertainers, The Wiggles. … ContinuedThe post “I promise I don’t have a real Patek.” OK, this is weird, Anthony the Blue Wiggle insists his watches are fake appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
At an incredible, mind-blowing 1.8mm thick, Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo Ultra breaks the world record for the thinnest mechanical watch of all time.
Deployant
After taking a hiatus during the last two years of the pandemic, E.C.Andersson returns with a successor to their sporty series. Introducing the Calypso II.
Revolution
For their latest creation, Jacob & Co seeks inspiration from one of the greatest car designers of all time, Jean Bugatti. The man who designed the legendary Type 57SC Atlantic has now inspired a spectacularly complex retrograde chronograph, the Jacob & Co Jean Bugatti.
Revolution
Maurice Lacroix has announced a variety of bold colors in the Aikon collection with a noble goal to keep plastic waste out of the oceans.
Time+Tide
Flicking through the Guinness Book of Records, some achievements leave you furrow-browed with a mix of bewilderment and awe. Whether it’s the “most T-shirts removed while heading a football” (21) or “the world’s tallest hat” (4.8 metres), there’s no denying these are remarkable accomplishments. But while the dedication of such record breakers is beyond reasonable … ContinuedThe post Why I was wrong about the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Mechanica Calibre 185 (Quadriptyque) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Welcome to the Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword! For those joining us for the first time, each week we post a new crossword for you to solve with clues that revolve around a particular watch-focused theme. Knowing that most of you come to the site each day on your mobile phones, we settled on having 10 … ContinuedThe post Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword: #5 Do You Speak Watch? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
When a new collection or reference debuts, I always wonder when I will first see it in the wild. Sure we get hands-on at launch events and watch fairs. But that is a spot within the zoo of the industry. I am more curious to see how soon I catch one in the wild, whether … ContinuedThe post This Oscar nominee is the first celeb spotted wearing the new colourful Omega Aqua Terra 38mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Longines have often produced interesting pieces for its Heritage collection, and the new Legend Diver is no exception. The new gray colored dial comes as an addition to the growing colorways namely blue, beige and burgundy of the model. It gives fans of the LLD more options to choose from, without deviating from the iconic design of the watch. The watch is priced at S$3,590.00.
Quill & Pad
In 2021 MB&F; celebrated the tenth anniversary of the Legacy Machine collection and, fittingly, introduced a brand-new model to mark this milestone. While that watch is definitely increditastic, Joshua Munchow takes us on a journey through all the models, looking at key points and how the concept has evolved over the years before ending up with MB&F;'s piece for the anniversary, LMX.
SJX Watches
Of Omega’s novelties for the year (which include a 6000 m dive watch and solid-gold Speedmaster Moonwatch) the Seamaster Aqua Terra is the most affordable while also offering the widest range in terms of style and size. The brand has just taken the covers off the latest Aqua Terra range made up of ten watches evenly divided into 34 mm and 38 mm cases, but all in vibrant, upbeat colours. The 34 mm model with a Lagoon Green dial Initial thoughts In terms of intrinsic appeal, the latest Aqua Terras are a wonderful addition to the line up. They show that Omega has begun to loosen up in terms of dial colours and style, which will no doubt help widen its audience. Another point of appeal is the dial finish. While the colours are bright, they aren’t in-your-face thanks to a brushed finish. And the 34 mm model also sports more rounded forms for the hands and hour markers that give it a more elegant feel. Overall, it makes for a versatile watch that’s not too sporty. And it’s also good news Omega has done away with the linear motif inspired by the wood decks of a sailboat that was long synonymous with the Aqua Terra. The 34 mm quintet That said, the collection immediately call to mind the Oyster Perpetual from 2020 that was an instant hit thanks to its range of colourful, lacquered dials. That leaves the new Aqua Terra feeling like a trend follower rather than trendsetter. Only time will tell whether this approach is conducive to the positioning of the brand. (To be fair,...
Time+Tide
For months now, I’ve been looking for a mechanical chronograph to add to my small collection. It’s a complication I’ve always loved. And after weeks of research, and multiple list comparing watches, I set my sights on the Breitling Chronomat B01 42 in blue. I even recently visited the Breitling boutique in NYC to try … ContinuedThe post The Collector’s Crossroads: Omega upended my chronograph search with the new Speedmaster ’57 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
It’s all about the people! And right now people in Ukraine and refugees in its border areas are displaced – and, even worse, hungry. Some people in the watch community are stepping forward to help, and all of us at Quill & Pad are united in support of their effort: the #WatchFamForUkraine Solidarity Auction takes place from March 25 to March 28, 2022. Get the details here!
Hodinkee
Ikepod and the Ice Hotel both deserve credit for the birth of this new microbrand.
Hodinkee
One of the most-talked-about watches of the 2017 SIHH, the new Master Control Date adds a sector dial and tons of charm to an iconic Jaeger-LeCoultre archetype.
Hodinkee
For IWC, 2017 is the Year of Da Vinci, and that includes a refresh of the most iconic model, the Perpetual Calendar Chronograph designed by the legendary Kurt Klaus.
Hodinkee
One of the most complicated watches Greubel Forsey makes, the GMT impresses technically and aesthetically. But what's it like to actually wear one?
Hodinkee
The Urban Jürgensen Reference Big 8 is a stunning example of old-school luxury watchmaking.
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