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10 Watches That Don't Tell Time? Look a Bit Closer Teddy Baldassarre
Jan 9, 2024

10 Watches That Don't Tell Time? Look a Bit Closer

By definition, watches, no matter whatever else they might do in addition, are made to tell time. As a rule, the vast majority of watches do this in analog fashion with the use of two rotating hands, one for the hour, the other for the minute, often with an additional hand to track the running seconds. But every so often, you’ll run across the proverbial exception that proves the rule - a timepiece whose design is so radical, so outside the mainstream in design, that at first glance (sometimes even at the second or third) it appears that you can’t read the time on it at all. Even most of these avant-garde pieces, however, have been designed with the purpose of timekeeping in mind, even if this basic function is overshadowed or reduced to an aesthetic afterthought by the more spectacular elements the watch offers. Here is a selection of 10 very interesting watches (actually, nine watches and one example of high-end wrist-worn art), most of which actually do tell you the time - as long as you know how to read them. F.P. Journe FFC F.P. Journe founder Francois-Paul Journe teamed up with legendary Godfather director Francis Ford Coppola to conceptualize and produce the original FFC watch, a unique piece in a tantalum case that fetched $4.93 million at the 2021 Only Watch auction, becoming the highest-selling F.P. Journe watch in the indie brand’s nearly 25 years of existence. Journe added a platinum-cased model to its regular collection in 2023 with the same visual...

Hands-on – The Fascinating and Technical Moritz Grossmann Backpage Green Monochrome
Glashütte Original Jan 8, 2024

Hands-on – The Fascinating and Technical Moritz Grossmann Backpage Green

Karl Moritz Grossmann, a prominent figure from the 19th century, was the founder and director of the German School of Watchmaking. In our contemporary era, in 2007, Christine Hutter, a skilled watchmaker with experience at Maurice Lacroix, Glashütte Original and A. Lange & Söhne, acquired the right to use the name “Moritz Grossmann“. In 2008, […]

Interview – Nomos CEO Uwe Ahrendt on the Significance of the Brand’s Glashütte Origins Monochrome
Nomos CEO Uwe Ahrendt Jan 8, 2024

Interview – Nomos CEO Uwe Ahrendt on the Significance of the Brand’s Glashütte Origins

For more than 30 years, Nomos has been part of the monumental effort to resurrect the German watchmaking tradition that once thrived in the Glashütte region in the easternmost part of the country. The region is home to a dozen or so brands, from relatively affordable names like Union Glashütte and Nomos to ultra-high-end like A. […]

Introducing – Garrick Makes the Jump with the S2 Deadbeat Seconds Monochrome
Garrick Jan 5, 2024

Introducing – Garrick Makes the Jump with the S2 Deadbeat Seconds

Traditional watchmaking is at the heart of British watchmaking institute Garrick. Ever since the brand’s foundation in 2015, the goal has been to rekindle the British style of mechanical watchmaking. Watchmaking in Great Britain has huge historical significance thanks to visionary people like Thomas Mudge, John Harrison, and many others. For Garrick, things have long […]

New Year’s Resolutions Friday: Travel Watches Worn & Wound
Dec 29, 2023

New Year’s Resolutions Friday: Travel Watches

The last few months are, and always have been, the busiest time of the year to travel. In many ways, the Thanksgiving crowd is far more predictable since the holiday falls on the same day each year. The opposite is true for the end of December as family and friends hustle to jet around the country (and the world). Having a timepiece you can rely on as you make and execute your travel plans is more than a practical consideration; it can also be a comforting companion when far from home. On this edition of new Year’s Resolutions Friday, we want to highlight watches that can be such companions – this one is for all of you who are traveling this season and for those who intend to travel more in the new year. Bon voyage! The last few months are, and always have been, the busiest time of the year to travel. In many ways, the Thanksgiving crowd is far more predictable since the holiday falls on the same day each year. The opposite is true for the end of December as family and friends hustle to jet around the country (and the world). Having a timepiece you can rely on as you make and execute your travel plans is more than a practical consideration; it can also be a comforting companion when far from home. On this edition of new Year’s Resolutions Friday, we want to highlight watches that can be such companions – this one is for all of you who are traveling this season and for those who intend to travel more in the new year. Bon voyage! The post New Year’s Resolutions Fri...

Best of 2023: Notable Surprises and Unexpected Developments SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Travel Time Dec 28, 2023

Best of 2023: Notable Surprises and Unexpected Developments

Perhaps the most surprising aspect of the year was how predictable much of it was. We saw more sports watches with integrated bracelets and more time-only watches with ostensibly artisanal decoration. Paradoxically, most of the notable surprises came from establishment marques that would ordinarily be predictable. Amongst them are the Rolex Perpetual 1908 and Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Travel Time ref. 5224R, both thoughtful creations that are typical for their respective brands. Here are our picks for the year’s best surprises in watchmaking. Brandon Moore Technical Contributor An unexpected, but user-friendly complicated watch that debuted this year is the Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Display Travel Time Ref. 5224R, a simple dual time watch with a twist: both time zones are indicated on a 24-hour dial, eliminating the need for an auxiliary day-night indicator. Not only is the functionality appealing, but the aesthetic and ergonomic execution is done well. While 42 mm may seem large for a Calatrava, the watch is visually smaller thanks to its abundant use of applied markers on the dial and stepped case and lugs. Moreover, and importantly, it is different for Patek Philippe, which is notable since the brand usually errs on the side of the tried and tested. Who would have thought Patek Philippe would remake the Chronometro Gondolo into a wristwatch? Richard Lee Technical Editor I was surprised when I first saw the Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” Minute Repeater ref....

Nomos evoke a warm autumn with the new Club Sport Neomatik 39 Tabac, Ember and Smoke Time+Tide
Nomos evoke Dec 27, 2023

Nomos evoke a warm autumn with the new Club Sport Neomatik 39 Tabac, Ember and Smoke

When thinking of Nomos, the first thing that comes to mind is clean, studied designs that follow the Bauhaus method. At times, these break free of their block colour schemes and get a lick of, say, vibrant pink, but rarely would I describe Nomos’ design choices as sultry. The three new Club Sport Neomatik 39 … ContinuedThe post Nomos evoke a warm autumn with the new Club Sport Neomatik 39 Tabac, Ember and Smoke appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Best of 2023: Complications SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Universelle but Dec 26, 2023

Best of 2023: Complications

Twenty twenty-three was a year where familiar complications were reimagined. The year’s standouts in terms of complications are characterised by good execution. Granted, most of of them are evolutionary, except perhaps for the Audemars Piguet Universelle, but a classic complication done well is arguably superior to a novel idea done badly. We asked our team members well versed with the year’s complications for their favourites and here they are. SJX The year’s most complicated and most impressive (multi) complication came from a surprising brand, Audemars Piguet. Even though it was the Royal Oak Travis Scott and Royal Oak Concept “Spider-Man” that captured the headlines, the Code 11:59 Universelle was questionably AP’s most important watch of the year from a watchmaking perspective. The Universelle manages to pack almost two dozen complications, including a grande sonnerie, perpetual calendar, split-seconds chronograph, and notably, automatic winding, into a case that’s just 42 mm wide and 15.55 mm high – a positively slender case by the standards of grand complications. By comparison, the F.P. Journe Astronomic is 44 mm by 13.7 mm, while the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime measures 47.7 mm by 16.07 mm. AP managed to do that with sophisticated and ingenious engineering, most notably by integrating the split-seconds mechanism into the automatic winding hub. The clever technical solutions are also evident in the calendar, which has an extra-thin construction...

Celebrating the New Nivada Grenchen x Worn & Wound Limited Edition Chronomasters and Datomasters Worn & Wound
Nivada Grenchen x Worn & Wound Dec 24, 2023

Celebrating the New Nivada Grenchen x Worn & Wound Limited Edition Chronomasters and Datomasters

It turns out lightning can strike twice. When we collaborated with Nivada Grenchen just a year ago on a (very) limited run of Chronomaster Valjoux 72 and Datomaster VK64 watches, we knew they were special but were doubtful about the possibility of repeating such an act. After all, unused Valjoux 72 movements don’t just pop up out of nowhere. As luck would have it, Nivada Grenchen has managed to secure another, smaller, batch of Valjoux 72 movements that serves as the foundation for the Nivada Grenchen x Worn & Wound Chronomaster V2. We haven’t forgotten about the Datomaster either; this year’s edition makes a return utilizing another Meca-Quartz movement – this time in a triple-register layout. The core of what makes this new release so exciting is based on two factors: the horological significance of the Valjoux 72 and the fresh designs of the Chronomaster and Datomaster. It turns out lightning can strike twice. When we collaborated with Nivada Grenchen just a year ago on a (very) limited run of Chronomaster Valjoux 72 and Datomaster VK64 watches, we knew they were special but were doubtful about the possibility of repeating such an act. After all, unused Valjoux 72 movements don’t just pop up out of nowhere. As luck would have it, Nivada Grenchen has managed to secure another, smaller, batch of Valjoux 72 movements that serves as the foundation for the Nivada Grenchen x Worn & Wound Chronomaster V2. We haven’t forgotten about the Datomaster either; this year...

Opinion: Giving the Gift of Watches Worn & Wound
Dec 22, 2023

Opinion: Giving the Gift of Watches

Deck the halls with straps and spring bars! Well… maybe. ‘Tis the season for giving and you may be wondering if you should gift a special someone their first timepiece. It just so happens that gifted watches can be surprisingly controversial. It doesn’t seem that a token of affection for someone in your life, especially around the holidays, would be complicated. Yet, type “watches as gifts” in your favorite search engine, and you’re sure to see long lists of debates on this topic. The rationale ranges from cultural superstition to practical concerns about preferred tastes and styles. It’s certainly worth considering your position on these perspectives before parting with one of your own watches or diving into a purchase on behalf of a loved one. However, I’m here to provide some personal insight into this conversation and perhaps convince you to take a chance on the prospective horologist in your life this season. My collecting journey began just over two years ago when I received a hand-me-down watch from a friend. I was, then, a graduate student unaware of the watchbox-free counter space I was taking for granted. I hadn’t critically considered watches before, but knew I was drawn to material “stuff.” My apartment was filled with hundreds of books I’d accumulated over the years along with MOLLE-paneled backpacks, knives, sports equipment, and various trinkets I had used (or might one day use) in my adventures. I gravitated toward things I knew were...

The Collector's Corner – The TAG Heuer Monza Calibre 36, Youngtimer Appeal and El Primero Power Monochrome
TAG Heuer Monza Calibre 36 Youngtimer Dec 22, 2023

The Collector's Corner – The TAG Heuer Monza Calibre 36, Youngtimer Appeal and El Primero Power

When you hear the name TAG Heuer, which watches come to mind? The Monaco, the Carrera, or perhaps the Autavia? Maybe the Aquaracer? But what about the Monza? The Monza can be considered the dark horse of TAG Heuer’s lineup, occasionally popping up over the years but never having quite the staying power as other, […]

Best of 2023: Value Propositions Below US$10,000 SJX Watches
Louis Erard Dec 21, 2023

Best of 2023: Value Propositions Below US$10,000

While the headline-grabbing watches of the year often featuring big complications and equally hefty prices, the year’s new launches also included a good number of value buys – both bang for the buck and accessibly priced. We have assembled a list highlighting the best value propositions of 2023, focusing on watches below US$10,000. Leading the list is a collaboration between Louis Erard and Russian independent watchmaker Konstantin Chakyin – unsurprisingly given Louis Erard’s speciality of making independent watchmaking more accessible. The Le Régulateur “Time-Eater” continues with the whimsical aesthetic of Mr Chaykin’s bestselling Wristmons line, but the Time-Eater only has one eye in order to fit the regulator-style display.  Like Louis Erard’s other regulator models, the Time-Eater in either version, 39 mm or 42 mm, is a thick watch at over 12 mm high, while inside is a no-frills Sellita automatic. But at CHF4,000 it was one of the best value buys in terms of independent watchmaking, and also the broader market. The 39 mm Time-Eater A fixture on our annual value-propositions list for some years now is Tudor, which has consistently distinguished itself with well-priced sports watches. Granted, all of the brand’s best products are dive watches – diversity is certainly not its strength for now – but the brand does one thing really well, thanks in large part to its brand-new, expansive manufacture. The brand had three noteworthy models in its line-u...

New IWC Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month to be featured in Aquaman sequel Time+Tide
IWC Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital Dec 19, 2023

New IWC Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month to be featured in Aquaman sequel

IWC reveals they created and delivered prop watches to be featured in the upcoming film Aquaman and the Lost Kingdom. Inspired by these prop watches, IWC have launched two new Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month watches limited to 25 pcs. for each configuration. Black 49mm Ceratanium® cases, one with red accents and another with blue … ContinuedThe post New IWC Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month to be featured in Aquaman sequel appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Tiffany & Co.’s Table Clock Inspired by 1950s New York Taxicab SJX Watches
Patek Philippe timepieces Dec 19, 2023

Tiffany & Co.’s Table Clock Inspired by 1950s New York Taxicab

Now a cultural icon of New York City, Tiffany & Co. has turned to 1950s taxicabs of its home city for its latest tabletop timepiece. The Tiffany Taxi is an eight-day clock in aluminium and steel – in brand’s signature colour naturally. Taking the shape of a typical 1950s American automobile with tail fins, the Tiffany Taxi is both a timekeeper and automaton – it incorporates a time display as well as a V8 engine with moving pistons. And like past Tiffany clocks, it is made by L’Epée 1839, the go-to specialist in Switzerland for high-end clocks. Initial thoughts While primarily known for jewellery watches like its signature Bird on a Rock and double-signed Patek Philippe timepieces, the New York jeweller has recently unveiled a line of table clocks. The Tiffany Taxi is its most elaborate to date. In addition to the time display inside the engine compartment, the Taxi clock also has an “engine”, a mechanism taking the form of a V8 engine with pistons that move when the engine is “started”. Charming as it is, the Tiffany Taxi is a pricey horological novelty, with a retail price of US$50,000. It is, however, an impressive object for the desk that is particularly faithful to Tiffany’s history as a New York City institution. Inspired by midcentury cabs The Tiffany Taxi is modelled on the iconic taxicabs of New York City, in particular the Yellow Cabs made famous the world over by films about the city – but the clock is of course in the familiar Robin egg bl...