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Quill & Pad
There was a plethora of reasonably priced watches to discover at Watches and Wonders 2022. And here Sabine Zwettler highlights five below $5,000 that caught her eye from Oris, TAG Heuer, Montblanc, Tudor, and Baume & Mercier.
Quill & Pad
In celebration of the 25th anniversary of the L.U.C collection, Chopard unveiled a minute repeater at Watches and Wonders 2022, which once again demonstrates the technical prowess of the manufacture. Part of an upcoming set called The Trilogy of Sound, the L.U.C Full Strike Sapphire pushes the boundaries of the sophisticated grand complication genre and marks some firsts in the realm of haute horlogerie.
Worn & Wound
Mr Jones Watches is a British brand that has been around since 2007, and in that time has carved out a niche that is really occupied by them and them alone. The brand specializes in “unusual watches that tell a story,” with dials that are full of unique artwork, visual puns, and feature curious methods of telling the time. For example, a favorite of mine is “The Accurate,” which is modeled after the concept of memento mori and features the words “Remember” and “You will die” incorporated into the hour and minute hands, respectively. Another watch, “Number Cruncher,” puts a bright blue monster front and center, with a jumping hour mechanism in its hand, and minutes reflected in a cross section of its stomach. You get the idea. Now, one of their most popular watches is available for the first time in a mechanical version, and it’s particularly appropriate as we approach the lazy days of summer. The watch, which is dubbed “A perfectly useless afternoon,” takes a bird’s eye view of a pool scene, with a figure lounging and floating peacefully across its surface. Naturally, the figure rotates around the dial, with their leg pointing to the correct hour. Minutes are read through the pool’s only other occupant, a rubber duck at the dial’s perimeter. The watch was designed by Belgian illustrator Kristof Devos, who was inspired by words of Chinese writer and philosopher Lin Yutang, who said “If you can spend a perfectly useless afternoon in a perf...
Time+Tide
You know how action movies sometimes include sleeper agents that nobody noticed and that can wreak havoc should they wish to? Well, we can also speak of sleeper watch brands that most enthusiasts have never heard of despite the fact that the brand makes some pretty neat watches. And when we hear of the brand … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Wolf Creek’s North Star is a daily wearer that’s ready for adventure appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Hear, hear! Time+Tide is excited to announce a new global partnership with Norqain, which will allow us to offer their entire collection to our audience, and do so as the exclusive dealer in Australia. We’ve hardly hidden our excitement over this young brand throughout the years, as their collections advance rapidly in size and technological … ContinuedThe post Norqain is now officially available for purchase from Time+Tide appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Quill & Pad
Watches and Wonders 2022 marked the introduction of the new Monaco Heuer 02 Gulf Edition, which is all about the detail of color. It harks back to an episode in the chronograph’s 1970s history when American oil company Gulf and Heuer were both major sponsors of Formula 1 teams. And the good news is that it isn't a limited edition.
SJX Watches
Having just introduced a revived version of the classic Tank Normale, Cartier also debuted a modern take on the design, the Tank Normale Skeleton. It’s equipped with a in-house skeletonised movement done in Cartier’s typical geometric style, but with a discreet twist in the form of a 24-hour time display. Initial thoughts At a glance the Tank Normale Skeleton might seem like yet another skeletonised Tank, of which there have been several over the years. But look closer and it emerges as something more interesting. The dial tells the time on a 24-hour scale, a modest complication in mechanical terms but one that references Cartier’s historical day-and-night timepieces. And the complication is echoed in the sun-and-moon motif of the bridges rendered in a complementary Art Deco style. In short, it’s an elegant take on the day-and-night display done in quintessential Cartier style. Created especially for this model, the calibre inside is notably attractive. It’s fairly symmetrical in layout – the balance is at 12 o’clock while the barrel sits at six – and finished to match the style of the bridges. But it does still have an Etachron regulator, which is found in all Cartier skeleton movements but still out of place considering the price. And the price is steep. At US$71,000 in yellow gold and slightly more in platinum, it is pricey for a relatively straightforward skeleton watch. In comparison, the Santos-Dumont Skeleton Micro-Rotor also launched this year is ...
Worn & Wound
If your particular collecting focus is centered on rising microbrands making affordable integrated bracelet sports watches with dramatic red dials, you have been spoiled for choice recently. It was just yesterday that we brought you news of the Fratello x Straum collaboration, which features a red dial that is literally inspired by volcanic lava, and is about as red as it gets. And today, in what can only be described as a Deep Impact/Armageddon style confluence of good ideas having their moment, we get the new Atelier Wen x Revolution Perception “Xi,” the latest version of the upstart brand’s impressive integrated bracelet sports watch that mixes a familiar platform with traditional Chinese craft techniques. If you haven’t experienced or heard much about the Perception, be sure to check out our prior coverage, which includes a hands on review by Brad Homes here, and a story about a limited edition made in partnership with Wristcheck here. To cut to the chase, though, we’re pretty big fans of the Perception around here. The integrated bracelet sports watch is very close to being completely played out, but Atelier Wen’s late entry into the genre actually feels fresh, and incorporates a unique design language based on Chinese pagodas, in a package that’s lightweight, wearable, and affordable. As well executed as the Perception’s case is, it’s always the dials that seem to generate the most interest when a new Perception is launched, and that’s certain...
Time+Tide
The Ressence Type 8 is the independent brand’s entry-level timepiece at CHF 12,500 Type 8 offers purely the essentials, just the hours and minutes via their proprietary ROCS system The Ressence Type 8S Sage dial joins the previous Type 8C Cobalt Blue as the second entry into the Type 8 line A clear requisite for … ContinuedThe post Ressence give their entry-level Type 8 a distinct sage-green treatment with new Type 8S appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Take a look at some of the most famous pilot’s watches of all time, and ask yourself what they’re missing. It won’t appear obvious at first, but once you’ve realised then it will seem like a glaring omission forever. The answer is of course the word “pilot” itself, which is entirely due to Zenith registering … ContinuedThe post How Zenith’s aviation heritage cemented their sky-high appeal appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Quill & Pad
Simon Brette is a young movement designer with a history of working with Jean-François Mojon’s Chronode, MCT, and MB&F;, who has now begun his own adventure of pushing the boundaries of traditional haute horlogerie. Brette launches his eponymous brand with the Chronomètre Artisans Subscription Edition, which sold out long before launch.
WatchAdvice
Early March – Tissot released its new look line up of a revived model line, the Chemin des Tourelles, named after the location of the brands first headquarters in Le Locle. I had the pleasure of going hands on with several of its key pieces, and in particular the 39 mm version, with sunburst blue dial and brown leather strap. What we like Beautifully finished deep blue sunburst dialCase wears comfortably on the wristSmart, classic design What we don’t like Crystal reflects the light a lot, detracting from the dialClasp isn’t as sturdy as you would expectMovement could be finished better with the see-through case back Overall rating: 7.125/10 Value for money: 7/10 Wearability: 7/10 Design: 8/10 Build quality: 6.5/10 Now I should start out by stating that this watch retails for AUD $1,175, which by many people’s standard in the crazy world of watches we live in, could be considered quite cheap. However, this is a great entry level price point for a Swiss watch, and as such, I’m reviewing it with this in mind, and to be honest, I’ve worn plenty of watched that are 3x or more in price that are probably on par if not a little less appealing or well built! So, here we go… Tissot holds a fond place in my heart. It was the first ever Swiss watch I bought. I had my first ever job in Sydney, and even though I wasn’t earning much, being a junior sales co-ordinator at a major radio network, I wanted to reward myself. So one lunch time I went to one of the local watch d...
Worn & Wound
If you’ve been interested in Farer’s Lander GMT (which they tell us is their most popular watch…ever) but felt it was just a bit too big, you’ll want to check out the brand’s latest release. The new 36mm GMT collection takes the Lander aesthetic and shrinks it, making for some of the most compact automatic GMTs on the market. It was only a few months ago that the Lorca GMT had us wondering why there weren’t more smaller GMT equipped watches on the market, and now we have a sudden influx. It’s a good time to be a GMT fan, and now there are a selection of colorful options from across the pond. The premise here is fairly simple. These new watches share the same basic design as the Lander, with a trio of distinct colorways. Unlike most Farer releases, which frequently have dramatic differences in hand-sets, hour markers, and dial textures within a single collection, these three watches are all very much “Landers” with the same numeral and hand design. The three colors include the much admired sea green, seen in what Farer is calling the Lander IV, or the Lander Classic, This watch has the same sunburst blue/green color that caught the attention of many watch enthusiasts in Farer’s early days, and set a tone for what to expect in terms of creative color combinations. The sea green dial is offset with a bright red GMT hand and an orange seconds hand, along with a white outer minute track. The next color in the new collection is Sea Coast, with a dial th...
Time+Tide
There’s no shortage of vintage-inspired divers in the independent and microbrand market. While many brands have got this formula wrong and wheeled out bland homages, some have also got it right and today’s brand, Fleux, is a prime example. The two models that we’ll dig into below – the FLX001 and FLX002 – are launching … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Fleux Watches revives the 1960s with two vintage-throwback divers for less than $500 each appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Maybe unsurprising given the state of the industry – watchmakers enjoyed record sales in 2022 – value buys were few at Watches & Wonders (W&W;) this year. Amongst the independent watchmakers, just two stood out for being value buys, the Kudoke 3 and Urwerk UR-102 “Reloaded” – both of which I covered in my highlights amongst the indies. Not quite an independent watchmaker but niche nonetheless, Louis Erard stands out for the Excellence Marqueterie. Probably the best value amongst its many limited editions, the Excellence Marqueterie brings the art of wood marquetry to a previously unheard of price segment. Although it costs only about US$4,000, the Excellence Marqueterie features a dial decorated with tiny pieces of exotic wood that have been sawn and applied by hand to form an M.C. Escher-like pattern. The Excellence Marqueterie. Image – Louis Erard Like most other niche brands, Louis Erard exhibited outside the halls of W&W;, where all of the establishment brands were located. Amongst the big names, only Tudor offered substantial value with its new models, although that is not news in itself since value is a fundamental characteristic of the brand. (Though it is arguable that Rolex offers strong value in all its models regardless of price, but certainly not as much as Tudor.) Two watches stood out amongst Tudor’s 2023 line-up. One is the Black Bay 54, a watch clearly conceived by aficionados with an eye for detail. Just 37 mm in diameter, it resembles a vinta...
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SJX Watches
At Watches & Wonders 2023, Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) is once again focusing on the Reverso, launching several new models along with new dial for existing references. The most notable debut is certainly the Reverso Tribute Chronograph, which offers a minimalist primary time display on one side and a partially open-worked chronograph on the other. This new model pays tribute to the Reverso Chronographe Retrograde of 1996, perhaps one of the best watches of that decade and one that helped solidify JLC’s status as a master of complications. The Reverso Tribute Chronograph reimagines the original for a new generation of collectors while being different enough to be its own watch. The reverse face with the chronograph as well as additional time display Initial thoughts On its face (no pun intended), the Reverso Tribute Chronograph is good value, offering a novel and compact chronograph movement with classic but unusual aesthetics thanks to its two faces. A key different between this and the original is the double-sided time display (that shows the same time on both faces). Initially, I was disappointed by the addition of a time display on the chronograph side of the watch. In my view, part of the charm of the original was the single-minded focus of each side. But upon reflection I’ve come to view this change as an upgrade, since it now enables the user to wear the chronograph side up as a primary time display when desired. This practicality differentiates the Tribute from the o...
Time+Tide
The new Grand Seiko Heritage Collection features a 44GS case in Ever-Brilliant Steel. The material boasts a whiter lustre and better corrosion resistance than regular steel. The “Mt. Iwate” dial is available in silver, black, or blue across three-handed or GMT models. Lovers of Grand Seiko are most often won over by a myriad of … ContinuedThe post The Grand Seiko Heritage Collection in Ever-Brilliant Steel appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Ever since Rolex discreetly revealed the one-off Yacht-Master in titanium made for Olympic sailor Sir Ben Ainslie, enthusiasts have been waiting for the commercially-available equivalent (which got all the more likely after the release of the Rolex Deepsea Challenge last year). And now Rolex has finally done it with the Yacht-Master 42 in RLX titanium. Similar to Sir Ben’s watch but with the addition of a date and matching titanium bracelet, the Yacht-Master 42 is perhaps the most restrained sports watch in the current Rolex catalogue. Initial thoughts Being a long-time fan of the Yacht-Master line, I’m glad to see this has finally arrived. Though large in size, it’s lighter and consequently more wearable. The muted colours and finish give it a no-fuss, contemporary look that sets it apart from the usual sports Rolex, but it retains the recognisable Yacht-Master style with its relief bezel. Perhaps the recognisable look is the only aspect to critique: the watch is little changed in terms of design from past Yacht-Master models (which were mostly in precious metals). The option of a rubber strap as seen on Sir Ben’s watch, for instance, would have given the Yacht-Master collection some variety. At CHF13,400, the Yacht-Master 42 is priced reasonably relative to other Rolex sports models. However, compared to the all-titanium offerings from Tudor – the Tudor Pelagos 39 is very, very similar – this is less of a value proposition, but it is still a Rolex. A mo...
Revolution
Revolution Editor-at-Large Eleonor Picciotto and Revolution Founder Wei Koh met up with Hublot CEO Ricardo Guadalupe to get a closer look at Hublot’s diverse array of novelties that the brand presented at Watches and Wonders 2023. They got their hands on eye-catching new Hublot timepieces like the Big Bang Integrated Blue Sapphire, Big Bang Integrated […]
Revolution
Bart and Tim Grönefeld grew up in a watchmaking family, and together they have propelled their eponymous brand to enormous success in independent watchmaking and haute horlogerie. Here’s a closer look at the 1941 Grönograaf launched last year, which is the brand’s first chronograph. The 40mm 1941 Grönograaf in steel (188-piece limited edition) or tantalum […]
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Revolution
Vacheron Constantin’s Heritage and Style Director Christian Selmoni presents the Vacheron Constantin Double Retrograde mechanism, which is now available in both the Vacheron Constantin Patrimony and the Vacheron Constantin styles of watch. In this video, Mr Selmoni also shows Revolution Founder Wei Koh the Traditionelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Open Face, a 41mm pink gold watch […]
Revolution
See the new Chopard novelties up close with Chopard President Karl-Friedrich Scheufele and Revolution Founder Wei Koh. At Watches and Wonders 2023, Mr Scheufele and his vaunted brand unveiled the Chopard Alpine Eagle XPS with salmon dial, which is driven by the chronometer-certified L.U.C 96.40-L movement with 65 hours of power reserve; and the high-frequency […]
Time+Tide
The Patek Philippe 5531G Grand Complications pays tribute to their Geneva home The Grand Feu cloisonné section of the dial depicts a steamship from the Belle Époque fleet that has been cruising Lake Geneva for over a century The calibre R 27 HU is equipped with world time and minute repeater complications Technical mastery is … ContinuedThe post Cloisonné mastery of the Patek Philippe 5531G Grand Complications appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Baume & Mercier is back with three new Hampton references for Watches & Wonders 2023 A multi-finished blue dial is new for the midsized Automatic model The small size gets a blue dial, and is set with brilliant-cut diamonds Rectangular watches are certainly a considered choice over more conventionally shaped ones, but the form is … ContinuedThe post Baume & Mercier’s Hampton proves it’s hip to be rectangular appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Patek Philippe brings a surprising jolt of colour to the Calatrava for Watches & Wonders 2023 The time and date reference gets 3 new dials in bright yellow, red, and blue The design harks back to the limited edition 6007A, but gets a case upgrade to polished white gold The new Patek Philippe Calatrava 6007G … ContinuedThe post Patek Philippe introduces some surprisingly racy colours to the Calatrava appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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