Results for Authorized Dealer (AD) System

S SJX Watches

SJX Watches

Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Alarm Ref Apr 22, 2026

Hands On: Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Alarm Ref. 5322G

Patek Philippe’s mastery of complications is evident at all levels. The brand’s ability to elevate even simple complications is on full display in the Calatrava 24-Hour Alarm 5322G, a smaller and more focused take on the alarm watch than the discontinued spider-like Alarm Travel Time 5520P from 2019. This puts the most refined alarm movement on the market in the popular hobnail-flanked Calatrava case, capped with punchy green and blue fumé dials. Initial thoughts Launched in 2019, Patek Philippe’s Alarm Travel Time ref. 5520 was a polarising design from the start, with the appearance of four crowns - three of which were actually screw-locked pushers - when combined with the four lugs giving the watch an octopoid appearance. Looks aside, it was Patek Philippe’s first wristwatch with an alarm, and introduced a refined new calibre. This year Patek Philippe builds on that foundation without the travel time functionality and streamlined looks, eliminating the appearance of an awkward double crown setting system. There is no actual change to the base movement’s functionality - save the deletion of the travel time module. Perhaps a decade ago this bright green dial, or even the blue, would feel out of place in a high-grade watch, but today it fits right into the brand’s extremely colourful and contemporary catalogue. Even so, the dial design is sure to be polarising, especially the conflict between the 12 o’clock marker and alarm indicator, which the latter s...

Read article

H Hodinkee

Hodinkee

Citizen Celebrating 50 Years Apr 21, 2026

Photo Report: A Week In Japan With Citizen Celebrating 50 Years Of Eco-Drive

We're not paying enough attention to Citizen. Or, at least, I haven't been. Sure, the occasional Aqualand or Promaster might sneak through my net, but if I'm being totally honest, going into my week spent exploring Japan with Citizen in celebration of 50 years of Eco-Drive, Citizen is not a brand I'd ever felt much urgency to think about. It seemed too ubiquitous, too familiar, to register as something enthusiasts were meant to seriously consider. That perception is probably common for a reason. For plenty of people, Eco-Drive was the watch you first saw in a mall case, on a relative's wrist, or that was explained to you by someone excited about it being powered by the sun. Citizen has sold Eco-Drive watches on an enormous scale, and that kind of visibility can sometimes obscure what's actually interesting about them.  Eco-Drive's popularity is substantial. Since its introduction in 1976, Citizen estimates that the technology has prevented the use of roughly 100 million watch batteries. Stacked end to end, that's the equivalent of about 3,600 Mount Everests. But it turns out that achievement only scratches the surface. What I hadn't appreciated is that ubiquity and serious watchmaking aren't mutually exclusive. Beneath the scale and familiarity is a product backed by a half-century of innovation and, what surprised me most, a watch that still involves a meaningful amount of hand assembly. The original Eco-Drive watch, the Citizen Crystron Solar Cell, from 1976. A "reflect...

Read article

W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Tudor Updates Apr 21, 2026

Watches & Wonders: Tudor Updates the Black Bay Ceramic with a New Bracelet

“So many Tudors, so little time.” That could be a bumper sticker, a tattoo, and perhaps even the Watches & Wonders motto in almost any year the event takes place. One of the real challenges of the show, at least in the very first moments of it, is deciding which Tudor releases to focus on. As we’ve discussed many times, Tudor is one of the only brands that does not give press early access to news of their new releases. Each of the last few years, their official press release has hit while our team was on the shuttle from our hotel to Palexpo for the first day of the show (where we always meet with Tudor first thing in the morning). Part of those first few hours of Watches & Wonders always involves discussing and trying to predict which of their novelties are going to be of the greatest interest to our readers.  This year, it was pretty clear that the new Monarch was going to be the most discussed new Tudor release. It’s a brand new watch, after all, with a new case and bracelet design, and a new movement. Even if it went over like a lead balloon with the public, that’s clearly the most newsworthy release and the one to lead with. The Black Bay 54 in blue also felt like it would generate a lot of discussion. And we wouldn’t have suspected it at the time, but the Royal relaunch is actually pretty major as well – those watches are much better in person than we could have imagined from the press release, and they represent a substantial investment on Tudor’s p...

Read article

H Hodinkee

Hodinkee

De Bethune DB25Vxs Silver Moon Apr 21, 2026

Introducing: De Bethune DB25Vxs Silver Moon And DB28xs Dark Sand

What We Know While not at Watches and Wonders this year, De Bethune was one of a number of brands jumping on the release bandwagon this week with a few new versions. Today, we're taking a look at two new pieces from the brand. De Bethune's DB25Vxs Silver Moon keeps some of the brand's futuristic design with the skeletonized lugs, while DB28xs Dark Sand picks up where the brand's DB28xs "Steel Wheels" left off. Let's start with the slightly more traditional watch first. The DB25Vxs Silver Moon trims the DB25L case size down to 40mm and changes the dial around a bit. It's been 17 years since the DB25L came out, so it was time for an update. The watch features a mirrored blued-titanium surround with gold stars, drawing the eye to the mirror-polished steel and blued-titanium spherical moonphase at 12 o'clock, which is accurate to 1 day every 122 years. The domed outer track features printed, slightly dressy Breguet numerals and a minute track for the gold hour and minute hands (in Breguet style as well) while the central dial features a barleycorn guilloché. Inside the 40.6mm by 11.2mm mirror-polished grade 5 titanium case is a caliber running at 4Hz with a 6-day power reserve. While a lot of my friends gravitate more toward that traditional aesthetic from De Bethune, my eyes immediately go for the more extreme De Bethunes, like the DB28xs Dark Sand, with the hinged lugs and (yes, somewhat divisive) arch design on the front. The DB28xs Dark Sand also has a 6-day power reserve...

Read article

M Monochrome

Monochrome

Nomos Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer Apr 21, 2026

First Look - The New Radiant White Version of the Nomos Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer

The Nomos Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer was enthusiastically received at Watches & Wonders last year. Praised for its traveller-friendly complication, resilient yet slim case construction, fun, fresh colours and in-house movement, another winning factor was its accessible price. For 2026, Nomos tones down the colour scheme of its Worldtimer and proposes a serene silvery-white version […]

Read article

T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

Tudor 2026 From Apr 20, 2026

Hands-On With Every New Tudor 2026

From the Tudor booth at Watches & Wonders 2026, we sit down with Cole Pennington to discuss all the new models and where the brand is headed.

Read article

M Monochrome

Monochrome

Louis Erard Regulator Esprit Flinqué When Apr 20, 2026

First Look - The New Louis Erard Regulator Esprit Flinqué

When Manuel Emch took the reins at Louis Erard, he set out to prove that métiers d’art and creative collaborations are not the exclusive domain of high-end brands. Now a vibrant hub of creativity, Louis Erard has partnered with independent watchmakers and artists to produce original content. Consolidating Emch’s mission to democratise and reinterpret traditional […]

Read article

T Two Broke Watch Snobs

Two Broke Watch Snobs

Rolex Datejust Alternative Hands-On Apr 20, 2026

Mido’s Affordable Rolex Datejust Alternative: Hands-On With The Datoday

We’ve always had a thing for Mido. It’s a brand we talk about a lot at TBWS because, when someone is ready to break into the four-figure range without getting too wild, Mido usually has something worth looking at. They’ve got a huge catalog of fun divers, GMTs, and everyday pieces, and that variety has always been part of the appeal for us. So when Mido announced the refreshed Commander Datoday, I was stoked to hear we’d be getting one in for review. It looked like the kind of watch that could make a lot of sense as an everyday option, but still clean up well enough if you wanted to wear it a little differently. The post Mido’s Affordable Rolex Datejust Alternative: Hands-On With The Datoday appeared first on Two Broke Watch Snobs.

Read article

F Fratello

Fratello

Holthinrichs Lab Series 1.S Apr 20, 2026

A Hands-On Introduction To The Holthinrichs Lab Series 1.S And 1.GMT

We all love Holthinrichs here at Fratello. It’s great to see a Dutch brand thriving in the watch industry, especially with such distinct designs. On top of that, the brand is located in the lovely city of Delft, just around the corner from the Fratello offices in The Hague. Being so close to the impressive […] Visit A Hands-On Introduction To The Holthinrichs Lab Series 1.S And 1.GMT to read the full article.

Read article

H Hodinkee

Hodinkee

Grand Seiko Apr 19, 2026

Collector Profile: J.P. Vicente

For the first installment of our latest series, we look at how one New York City collector has made Grand Seiko an important part of his daily life.

Read article

F Fratello

Fratello

Parmigiani Fleurier arrived armed Apr 17, 2026

Parmigiani Celebrates 30 Years With Multiple New Releases

This year, at Watches and Wonders 2026, Parmigiani Fleurier arrived armed with a host of new releases to celebrate 30 years as a brand. Unlike many watches from other marques, though, these pieces are not modernized renditions of prior watches. Instead, as we’ll see, they offer hand-finished dials and precious metals, aside from but also […] Visit Parmigiani Celebrates 30 Years With Multiple New Releases to read the full article.

Read article

F Fratello

Fratello

Apr 17, 2026

Fratello’s Top 5 Releases From Watches And Wonders 2026

Another Friday, another list! With Watches and Wonders nearing its end, it is time to look back at some of the show’s best releases. This week saw an avalanche of new watches, and it was sometimes hard to keep up. As always, the anticipation was palpable. But did the brands deliver? For now, we will […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Releases From Watches And Wonders 2026 to read the full article.

Read article

M Monochrome

Monochrome

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon Apr 16, 2026

Introducing - Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon Platinum

A year after Piaget broke the record for the thinnest tourbillon with its 2mm Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon, Bulgari, following its decade-long pursuit of ultra-thin watchmaking, unveiled the Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon in titanium, now the world’s thinnest flying tourbillon at just 1.85mm. The new Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon Platinum edition does not aim to break […]

Read article

W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Hublot Big Bangs Hublot has Apr 16, 2026

Watches & Wonders: A Quick Rundown of the New Hublot Big Bangs

Hublot has never trafficked in subtlety. The Big Bang chronograph first made its presence known with a 44mm size, hefty ceramic bezel with contrasting screws, and a rare combination of rose gold and rubber, which contrasted different textures with clashing case finishes. So what if it had an ETA movement-which, at the time, seemed more plebeian than the in-house movements of rival luxury chronographs? In that maximalist, McBling era, the stance and the presence were all that mattered.  Hublot has only taken its flagship model to more audacious heights. At this year’s Watches & Wonders Geneva, the Big Bang Reloaded enters the collection, following the 20-year anniversary of the Big Bang, by combining the intricate case with Hublot’s in-house chronograph movement, the Unico calibre, bringing together all the things that Big Bang enthusiasts love.  The Reloaded exemplifies Hublot’s adherence to high-tech materials: available in titanium, scratch-resistant 18-karat “Magic Gold,” and three options of ceramic: black, blue, and dark green. The strap, still in textured rubber, matches the case colors.    Hublot introduced its Unico calibre in 2010, and now the HUB 1280 UNICO makes an appearance from behind a skeletonized and multi-layered dial: redesigned to match the stencil-style numbers, a date window at between 4 and 5 o’clock, and horizontally-placed chronograph registers. It’s an automatic flyback chronograph, with 43 jewels and a power reserve of 72 hour...

Read article

F Fratello

Fratello

Piaget Polo Signature Brings Gadroons Apr 16, 2026

The Piaget Polo Signature Brings Gadroons To The Contemporary Polo Line

The new Piaget Polo Signature models introduced at Watches and Wonders 2026 bring a historically inspired design element back to the contemporary Piaget Polo line. Two sets of his-and-hers versions and three rose gold variants get the gadroon treatment, a direct visual link to the original 1979 Polo concept. While it is perhaps a subtle […] Visit The Piaget Polo Signature Brings Gadroons To The Contemporary Polo Line to read the full article.

Read article

W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Grand Seiko was once Seiko’s best-kept Apr 15, 2026

Watches & Wonders: Credor Debuts on the World Stage with Two New Goldfeathers and a New Take on the Genta-Designed Locomotive

If Grand Seiko was once Seiko’s best-kept secret, as it was for decades, Credor was even more enigmatic. Once positioned above Grand Seiko and crafted exclusively from precious metals, it remains rare outside of Japan to this day.  That changes now when Credor comes out from under its Seiko shadow to exhibit at Watches & Wonders for the first time with three novelties: two takes on the Goldfeather and a brighter, breezier dial on the Locomotive, one of Credor’s most significant watches - though in the 1970s you would have likely never heard of it.  Credor Goldfeather Urushi Lacquer Dial Limited Edition GBBY967  The Seiko Goldfeather was hailed as a technological achievement when it was released in 1960 (still holding Seiko’s thinnest three-hand movement). Credor resurrected the Goldfeather name in 2023 with the same pursuit of mechanical thinness, plus beautifully detailed lacquer and enamel dials.  On the new GBBY967, the dial’s urushi finish is lacquered and polished dozens of times, resulting in a stunningly smooth dark blue gradient that turns into black around the edges, as if peering into the ocean depths. The dial’s baton indices and the Credor and Goldfeather logos are hand-applied with platinum powder in the taka maki-e style: a lacquer art that produces a three-dimensional effect. The ultra-thin (just 1.98mm!) Caliber 6890 hand-wind movement underpins this special Goldfeather, which is limited to just 25 pieces and at $47,000 each.  Credor Goldfe...

Read article

W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Jaeger-LeCoultre Showcases Apr 15, 2026

Watches & Wonders: Jaeger-LeCoultre Showcases Its Unique Mastery of Both Form and Function Through a Slew of New Releases

For this year’s Watches and Wonders, Jaeger-LeCoultre is coming at us with a slew of new releases – there’s a lot to unpack, so stick with me. Here, we get two stunning new takes on the iconic Reverso highlighting the brand’s prowess in métiers d’art techniques (yes, you know I’m swooning over these). For the remaining three launches, we get a trio of complicated models: two from the Master Hybris line and a Master Grande Tradition. Altogether, the lineup showcases Jaeger-LeCoultre’s unique ability to balance both form and function throughout its catalog. Jumping into the Reverso pieces first, we have the latest additions to the Reverso Tribute line, which once again honor Hokusai, Japan’s most celebrated 19th century artist. For these, the Maison returns to the artist’s ‘Waterfalls’ series with four new interpretations. Each of the four 10-piece limited editions combines guilloché and enamel on the dial. Flip the trademark case design over, and miniature enamel paintings of Hokusai artworks are revealed on the casebacks depicting the final four images in the series: Rōben Waterfall at Ōyama in Sagami Province; Kiyotaki Kannon Waterfall at Sakanoshita on the Tōkaidō; Yōrō Waterfall in Mino Province; and The Falls at Aoigaoka in the Eastern Capital.   Alongside these tributes, we get a new series of limited-edition capsule collections dedicated to Métiers Rares timepieces: this is the La Vallée des Merveilles. The goal of the new capsules wi...

Read article

W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Oris 24-Year-Old Product Design Apr 15, 2026

Watches & Wonders: Oris’ 24-Year-Old Product Design Engineer Just Reworked a Classic - This is the Sleek New Artelier Complication

Oris first introduced its Artelier Complication in 1991 alongside the Caliber 581, which notably featured a moonphase module developed in-house by the brand. The release marked another significant moment for the maison in its commitment to manufacture movements following the quartz crisis. The model’s presence ultimately faded but received new life in 2017 with an updated design that featured a more modern, cleaner style with slimmer, tapered lugs, and a redesigned bezel. At Watches & Wonders, we get the next evolution of the Artelier Complication.  The newest incarnation gives us another redesign from the 2017 edition while keeping the focus on highlighting the romantic moonphase. This updated take on the Artelier Complication comes from 24-year-old Lena Huwiler, Oris’s new Product Design Engineer. Huwiler has been able to achieve the perfect balance between honoring the model’s place in the history of the brand and propelling it forward with a design that will resonate with her generation. An old soul at heart, Huwiler admits she does not just find inspiration online but still appreciates architecture, crafts, and interior design. She clearly brings the duality of these sensibilities into her design for the new Artelier Complication. Here, Huwiler has given an Oris classic a modern, urban profile and reworked the moonphase display designed by and for the next generation of watch collectors. The major update here is in the complication and how it is presented thank...

Read article

W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

IWC s 2026 Releases IWC Apr 15, 2026

Watches & Wonders: My Favorite Ingenieurs from IWC’s 2026 Releases

IWC is not a brand that quickly moves on from a release. Rather, any new watch is also the launch of a platform that will, for several years at least, see new models in terms of colors, sizes, materials, and complications. In doing so, their catalog is vast yet focused, as each line is thematic yet deeply explored. Since relaunching in 2023, the Genta-derived, integrated bracelet, luxury tool watch that is the Ingenieur has steadily expanded to now cover three sizes, multiple materials, many colors, and one complication, totaling 12 SKUs (before Watches & Wonders releases). For 2026, the expansion continues with several new references, including a tourbillon, and two models that kind of blew me away. I had the fortune of getting to spend some time with IWC’s 2026 novelties before the big show, and while several are striking (I mean, that full Ceralume perpetual is one of the most bonkers watches I’ve seen in a while), the two that I have kept thinking about are the Ingenieur automatic in green ceramic, and the full titanium perpetual. Starting with the former, IWC is no stranger to ceramic. In fact, they debuted the first ceramic watch in 1986. While many brands have adopted the material since, IWC’s earthy palette of green, khaki, and blue retains a certain understated charm. The 42mm Ingenieur has existed in black ceramic for at least a year now. While sleek, stealthy, and a logical edition, it wasn’t all too surprising. The full green ceramic, however, is a bit....

Read article

M Monochrome

Monochrome

Favre Leuba Harpoon Revival Following Apr 15, 2026

First Look - The Favre Leuba Harpoon Revival

Following a global relaunch in 2024 under the leadership of CEO Patrik P. Hoffmann, Favre Leuba’s modern revival focuses on precision-driven timepieces that honour the brand’s extensive archives while meeting contemporary mechanical expectations. Marking the brand’s debut at Watches & Wonders this year, Favre Leuba releases the Harpoon Revival, a faithful 60th-anniversary tribute to the […]

Read article

T Time+Tide

Time+Tide

Rado takes over Apr 15, 2026

Rado takes over the New York Time+Tide Discovery Studio, celebrating 40 years of the Integral and its relationship with ceramics

Rado celebrated 40 years of the Integral, alongside its relationship with ceramics, at the Time+Tide Discovery Studio in New York CityThe post Rado takes over the New York Time+Tide Discovery Studio, celebrating 40 years of the Integral and its relationship with ceramics appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Read article

S SJX Watches

SJX Watches

Rolex unveiled Apr 15, 2026

The Yacht-Master II’s Encore

In a rather surprising move, Rolex unveiled a revamped and re-engineered version of the Yacht-Master II. Although the original was discontinued in 2024 the Geneva-based brand decided to give the quirky watch another chance at life, while also making the user’s life much easier.  Initial thoughts The original Yacht-Master II was undoubtedly a polarising timepiece. People would either love the bulky aesthetics or instantly dismiss it as an unpalatable timepiece. Add to that the complicated Command Ring bezel programming sequence for the regatta timer and the result is a perhaps the quirkiest Rolex creation in modern times.  Apparently the timepiece was performing well enough to warrant an encore. The Yacht-Master II was thus updated to include both Rolex’s latest innovations (such as the Chronergy escapement) and a revised user interface.  In terms of aesthetics, the 44 mm timepiece is still hard to love at first, but definitely not as excessive as past versions. The biggest change was perhaps the shift to a regular bi-directional 60 minute click bezel, which replaced the cumbersome Command Ring system used previously.  The ten-minute countdown markings were moved to a raised flange on the dial. The regatta minutes and seconds hands now turn counterclockwise, a suggestive way of approaching countdown.  Although few Yacht-Master II pieces will realistically be used for yacht race timing, the complication can be as useful as any given chronograph. The new caliber 4162...

Read article

S SJX Watches

SJX Watches

Rolex Yacht-Master II Returns Apr 15, 2026

The Rolex Yacht-Master II Returns for an Encore

In a rather surprising move, Rolex unveiled a revamped and re-engineered version of the Yacht-Master II. Although the original was discontinued in 2024 the Geneva-based brand decided to give the quirky watch another chance at life, while also making the user’s life much easier with a more practical interface enhanced by a more appealing design. Initial thoughts The original Yacht-Master II was undoubtedly a polarising timepiece. People would either love the bulky aesthetics or instantly dismiss it as an unpalatable timepiece. Add to that the complicated Command Ring bezel programming sequence for the regatta timer and the result is a perhaps the quirkiest Rolex creation in modern times.  Apparently the timepiece was performing well enough to warrant an encore. The Yacht-Master II was thus updated to include both Rolex’s latest innovations (such as the Chronergy escapement) and a revised user interface.  In terms of aesthetics, the 44 mm timepiece is still hard to love at first, but definitely not as excessive as past versions. The biggest change was perhaps the shift to a regular bi-directional 60 minute click bezel, which replaced the cumbersome Command Ring system used previously.  The ten-minute countdown markings were moved to a raised flange on the dial. The regatta minutes and seconds hands now turn counterclockwise, a suggestive way of approaching countdown.  Although few Yacht-Master II pieces will realistically be used for yacht race timing, the complicati...

Read article

H Hodinkee

Hodinkee

Jaeger-LeCoultre s Master Hybris Inventiva Apr 15, 2026

Introducing: Jaeger-LeCoultre's Master Hybris Inventiva Gyrotourbillon À Stratosphère, Master Hybris Mechanica Ultra Thin Minute Repeater, And Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Jumping Date

As is tradition, the brand launches some impressively technical watches at the biggest watch show of the year, along with a brand-new "Hybris" line called Inventia.

Read article

T Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre

Rolex Watches 2026 It's Apr 14, 2026

Hands-On with All Rolex Watches 2026

It's the start of Watches & Wonders 2026, and Rolex has announced their newest additions to their catalog. New dials, new metals, new exclusive references and even a new movement. Watch the video to find out what's new for this year at Rolex

Read article

M Monochrome

Monochrome

Frederique Constant Classic Worldtimer Manufacture Apr 14, 2026

Introducing - The New Frederique Constant Classic Worldtimer Manufacture, with New Movement

Since its debut in 2012, the Frederique Constant Classic Worldtimer Manufacture, like its Perpetual Calendar, has become one of the brand’s defining watches. Combining a practical travel complication with in-house mechanics at accessible pricing, it quickly became a cornerstone of the catalogue. Now, more than a decade later, Frederique Constant introduces a thoroughly updated version […]

Read article

W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Grand Seiko Introduces Apr 14, 2026

Watches & Wonders: Grand Seiko Introduces the SBGY043 “Iwao Blue”

At Watches & Wonders 2026, Grand Seiko’s newest addition to the Elegance Collection brings together the things it does best. Namely, intricately textured dials with a nod to Japanese artistry, and its flagship Caliber 9R Spring Drive.  Engraved to resemble a weathered rock face, the SBGY043’s striking dial suggests the appearance of a mountain at dusk: Grand Seiko calls this pattern iwao, which translates to rock or crag. Depending on the angle it’s viewed from behind its domed sapphire crystal, different facets take on intermingling light and dark tones of blue, purple, and black. Its color is inspired by the tradition of katsuiro dyeing, a centuries-old technique and reportedly a favorite among the samurai class, which produces a deep indigo hue. Set against bright silver markers and hands - no blued seconds hand here, which is almost its own Grand Seiko tradition - it makes for an especially understated contrast.  This Iwao Blue version runs on the Caliber 9R31, a manual-wind Spring Drive movement with a 72-hour power reserve and visible through a clear caseback. The case is among the slimmest in the Elegance Collection, with standard zaratsu polishing and soft, rounded lugs. A nine-row stainless steel bracelet is the only option, which reflects the craggy-faced dial’s aura of ruggedness.  Grand Seiko enthusiasts, of which there are many, might remember this dial from 2021 - albeit in a sharp-angled Heritage case and with a Caliber 9R65 Spring Drive mov...

Read article

W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

Patek Philippe Apr 14, 2026

Watches & Wonders: Roger Dubuis Debuts an All-New Perpetual Calendar Caliber Alongside a Sporty Version of its Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar

Roger Dubuis’ latest releases at Watches and Wonders are steeped in the brand’s history. For the occasion, the maison introduces two complicated pieces – a perpetual calendar and day-date calendar – each in the brand’s patented biretrograde display. Prior to founding his namesake maison, Mr. Roger Dubuis was a prolific watchmaker for several brands, from Patek Philippe to Longines. One such project came in 1989 when he and fellow watchmaker Jean-Marc Wiederrecht collaboratively pioneered and patented their famous biretrograde display, which reworked the traditional concept and made it more streamlined. This approach eased assembly and improved the stability and readability of the hands on the ecliptic retrograde counters. Soon after, the pair engineered a double retrograde perpetual calendar module, which was notably used in a timepiece for Harry Winston. A year after the brand’s official founding, Roger Dubuis introduced its own biretrograde display timepiece and later the perpetual calendar complication in its iconic Sympathie and Homage collections. Today, we see the next evolution of these concepts highlighted in a rather modestly sized 40mm version of its Excalibur line. The Excalibur Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar is notably powered by an entirely new movement: the RD850. Here, the maison builds upon the work set forth four decades ago with a self-winding caliber built from 435 components in-house at Roger Dubuis’ Geneva manufacture. A key functional i...

Read article

F Fratello

Fratello

Tudor Launches Apr 14, 2026

Tudor Launches The Royal In Three New Sizes With An Updated Design And Upgraded Calibers

For 2026, Tudor has updated its extensive Royal lineup with new sizes, refreshed dial designs, and manufacture movements. The upgrade in calibers, in particular, is an anticipated and welcome step forward. But the aesthetic updates are also quite nice, giving some of the models a retro touch. Let’s take a closer look at the revitalized […] Visit Tudor Launches The Royal In Three New Sizes With An Updated Design And Upgraded Calibers to read the full article.

Read article

W Worn & Wound

Worn & Wound

A. Lange & Sohne Apr 14, 2026

Watches & Wonders: the A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Annual Calendar Returns with a New Case Size and Caliber

A. Lange & Söhne had one of my, and many others’, favorite releases at Watches & Wonders 2025. It wasn’t a super complication and had no bells-and-whistles. Rather, it was simple and small. The 34mm 1815 three-handers in white or rose gold exemplified confident, understated luxury like no other watches at the fair. For 2026, Lange has brought back a watch that had been out of production with a new movement and in a new, smaller size, following suit from last year’s release. Unlike the 1815s, these feature one of the less common complications in the Lange catalog: the annual calendar. The Saxonia Annual Calendar was a very cool watch. It combined its eponymous complication with Lange’s signature outsized date and was powered by a since-retired “Sax-0-Mat” three-quarter-rotor automatic movement. These funky movements were featured in the Langematik watches and represented Lange’s first foray into automatic calibers. In addition to a distinctive look, they featured a hidden complication: zero-reset seconds, meaning that when the crown was pulled out, the seconds hand would jump to zero. In 2011, the Sax-O-Mats began to be replaced by central rotor calibers with up to 72 hours of power reserve, an increase from 46 hours, but the zero-reset seconds disappeared. Though comprising many different calibers, most of Lange’s currently in-production automatics have a central rotor. I am unsure when the previous generation of the Saxonia Annual Calendar went out of pro...

Read article