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Hands On: Ulysse Nardin UR-Freak SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin UR-Freak One Dec 22, 2025

Hands On: Ulysse Nardin UR-Freak

One of the standout releases from Dubai Watch Week was the UR-Freak, a collaboration between Ulysse Nardin (UN) and Urwerk that embodies some of the most enduring motifs of each brand. More UN than Uwerk, the UR-Freak nonetheless incorporate’s the latter’s satellite wandering hours display, adapted to the Freak’s slow-moving flying tourbillon. A limited run of just 100 individually numbered pieces, the UR-Freak confers some of Urwerk’s disruptive cache to UN, a legacy brand celebrating its 180th anniversary next year. The wandering hours tourbillon To understand why the UR-Freak is such a compelling collaboration, one must understand what UN and Urwerk bring to the table, respectively. The UN Freak turns 25 in 2026, marking a quarter-century of the quirky tourbillon that introduced silicon to watchmaking. That innovation alone would have secured the Freak’s place in watchmaking history, but it was arguably more memorable for its unusual design that put much of the movement (including the escapement) on a rotating platform on the dial. The Freak One is an example of the typical Freak architecture. Ulysse Nardin refers to this architecture as a flying carousel, perhaps to differentiate the standard models from those with a nested tourbillon. Nomenclature aside, it’s technically a tourbillon by nature of its operation, which powers the escapement through a fixed-ring gear (which can be seen around the edge of the dial). In all previous Freak models to date, the mo...

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Hands-on – The Sleek TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph x Fragment Limited Edition Monochrome
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph x Fragment Dec 15, 2025

Hands-on – The Sleek TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph x Fragment Limited Edition

TAG Heuer‘s relationship with Hiroshi Fujiwara, founder of Fragment Design and a pioneer of Tokyo street culture, has become one of the most stylistically consistent collaborations in contemporary watchmaking. Their first joint venture in 2018 distilled the vintage Carrera into its purest form; the second, in 2020, reinterpreted the 1970s Autavia through a graphic, bolder […]

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Hands On: Biver Automatique with Exotic Stone Dials SJX Watches
Dec 12, 2025

Hands On: Biver Automatique with Exotic Stone Dials

Biver expands its Automatique line with a diverse set of new dials that underscore the brand’s fascination with permanence, ranging from billion-year-old mineral stones to finely executed enamel and traditional guilloché. In a year crowded with stone-dial releases, the latest Automatique models stand out for the coherence of the concept and the quality of execution, offering collectors a mix of exotic materials, artisanal craft, and a technically unusual calibre across a wide price spectrum. Initial thoughts Jean-Claude Biver talks a lot about eternity. The slogan for his namesake brand, “eternity has no competition”, is an eloquent expression of what drives the Biver family enterprise, founded with his son Pierre and now led by chief executive James Marks. Beyond the ability to keep time, mechanical watches appeal to enthusiasts precisely because they seem to exist outside of time. Few modern products are crafted from such noble or enduring materials, and for many people a mechanical watch is among the most lasting man-made objects they will ever encounter. Biver’s obsession with eternity is clear in the products themselves. In the case of the Automatique, the brand has chosen to use especially long-lasting materials like gold for the movement plates and bridges, going so far as to used a high-palladium gold alloy that will not tarnish over time. The overly robust cases are another clue as to the motivations of the people behind the Biver brand. Water resistant t...

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Hands-On: the Tissot PRX Damascus Steel 38mm – One of the Biggest Surprises of 2025 Worn & Wound
Tissot PRX Damascus Steel 38mm Dec 11, 2025

Hands-On: the Tissot PRX Damascus Steel 38mm – One of the Biggest Surprises of 2025

It’s pretty uncommon for a watch line to maintain top-of-mind relevance with the watch community for more than a couple of years. Trends change, the hype spotlight shifts, and newness becomes necessary. We’ve seen brands try to push watches past their expiration points, resulting in diminished excitement and inevitably disappointing. With that said, one line that has endured far longer than I would have expected and is still going strong is the Tissot PRX. Launched in 2021, the PRX was an early entry into the affordable integrated sports watch category, which has also lasted longer than I would have bet. Yet despite being “several” years old, Tissot continues to surprise with updates to the PRX line, keeping it genuinely exciting. Smartly, they haven’t just used it as a throwback line, but rather to experiment with materials that typically come with a higher price tag. Notably, last year they made a forged carbon-fiber version that was lightweight and stealthy. While a material that had come downstream, so to speak, in the years prior, it was still unexpected from Tissot. But 2025’s entry wasn’t just surprising for Tissot; it was surprising for any large-scale brand, especially an affordable one. If you told me I’d be wearing a Damascus steel Tissot that cost $1,175 a few years ago, I would have said, “shut your face!” Just kidding, but I would have been immensely skeptical. An artisanal material, often seen in knife making, it’s scarcely used in watc...

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Hands On: Chopard L.U.C. Grand Strike SJX Watches
Chopard L.U.C Grand Strike Dec 11, 2025

Hands On: Chopard L.U.C. Grand Strike

The 30th anniversary of the Chopard L.U.C. manufacture was one anniversary among many this year, but it will likely be remembered thanks to the Grand Strike, the most complicated watch in Chopard’s history and its first grande sonnerie. Building on the successful Full Strike minute repeater architecture and making full use of the brand’s patented sapphire gongs, the Grand Strike is a chronometer-certified two-train clock watch with a push-button minute repeater. In this context, the presence of the tourbillon is almost a footnote. Initial thoughts I can count on one hand the number of brands that have created their own grande sonnerie wristwatch. It’s one of the few things in watchmaking that’s proven challenging enough to still be rare, even in the days of computer-aided design (CAD) and advanced manufacturing technology like wire erosion. For this reason, the grande sonnerie has a towering cultural presence among watchmakers and collectors, looming above all other complications. For Chopard, the Grand Strike represents the culmination of 30 years of the L.U.C. manufacture, the brand’s haute horlogerie division. The first impression of the Grand Strike is one of extraordinary depth. There’s not much of a dial, save for the minutes scale etched on the inside of the sapphire crystal, and the small concentric sub-dials for the dual power reserve displays. This depth shrinks the watch visually, and it feels dense and compact despite its rather large 43 mm size and...

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Hands On: F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain Vertical Joaillerie Rubis SJX Watches
Patek Philippe s 2022 launch Dec 9, 2025

Hands On: F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain Vertical Joaillerie Rubis

Earlier this year F.P. Journe unveiled its most daring jewellery watch yet, the Tourbillon Souverain Vertical Joaillerie Rubis, set with the largest baguette rubies ever used in watchmaking. Despite the current popularity of high jewellery watches, the Tourbillon Souverain Vertical Joaillerie (TVJ) Rubis is an audacious undertaking that required eight years to accumulate the right gemstones – and the destruction of 61 carats of gem-quality rubies to make this single watch. Initial thoughts Haute joaillerie watches of this sort are not new; the 1980s and 1990s saw significant demand for gem-set complicated watches, especially in Asia. But Over the last decade such watches have shifted from niche offerings to an important (and resilient) pillar of the business for many brands. Coloured stones are seeing marked interest too, as a sort of trend within a trend, as exemplified by Rolex’s “Rainbow” Daytona, one of the brand’s hottest models. Patek Philippe’s 2022 launch of the gem-set Grandmaster Chime trio can also be seen as a milestone for the genre, with one of Geneva’s flagship fine watchmaking brands adorning its flagship watch with diamonds, emeralds and sapphires. A unique Piaguet minute repeating pocket watch that’s a fine example of 1990s gem-setting high horology But with the TVJ, it’s clear that F.P. Journe is not simply following industry trends – this watch is eight years in the making and belongs to a two-decade tradition of high jewellery tour...

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Hands On: Ressence Type 3 Marc Newson SJX Watches
Ressence Type 3 Marc Newson Dec 4, 2025

Hands On: Ressence Type 3 Marc Newson

Ressence has unveiled the Type 3 Marc Newson, an 80-piece limited edition that unites Marc Newson’s softly contoured, playful futurism with Ressence founder Benoît Mintiens’ long-running pursuit of a ‘dematerialised’ time display. Functionally unchanged from the standard Type 3, the MN edition introduces a colourway and set of visual cues drawn directly from the famed industrial designer’s archives, resulting in a new watch that feels instantly familiar. The Type 3 MN retains Ressence’s signature oil-filled upper chamber, which eliminates optical distortion and makes the indications appear projected onto the underside of the crystal - an effect that reads almost digital at first glance. Initial thoughts Some collaborations seem almost predestined; the partnership between Benoît Mintiens and Marc Newson is one of them. Both men share an affinity for modern minimalism and pebble-like organic forms, so their first joint project feels like an overdue meeting of minds. Benoît Mintiens and Marc Newson. Image – Ressence The Type 3 MN manages to combine the best instincts of both designers, resulting in a watch that lends an Ikepod-like lug-less case to Ressence’s signature oil-filled display. We’ll come back to the design, but one of the most impactful aspects of the Type 3 MN is its comfort on the wrist. Mr Newson is well known for his ergonomic designs; the strap he designed for Ikepod was later licensed by Apple, making it possibly the world’s most pop...

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Has The New Seiko 5 Supercars Hit An Apex? (Hands-On) WatchAdvice
Seiko 5 Supercars Hit Nov 29, 2025

Has The New Seiko 5 Supercars Hit An Apex? (Hands-On)

Seiko and Supercars Australia hit the road again with a brand-new limited edition for 2025! But can it keep the pace, or will it fall behind? Let’s find out! What We Love: Hot colourway and design inspiration Accessible price and wearability for most Love to see another Australian exclusive! What We Don’t: Seiko straps are always stiff Bezel far too easy to turn How ‘limited’ should a ‘limited edition’ be? Overall Rating: 7.75/10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 8/10 Build Quality: 7/10 I think it’s fair to say that Seiko has been on quite a roll this year. It’s been a turbulent time for the watch industry, given how both the Swiss and German markets are faring under economic circumstances. But the horological ‘Beast from the East’ just keeps getting better and better. You might think this comes from behind a pair of rose-coloured glasses; After all, we at Watch Advice are passionate advocates for the Japanese powerhouse. But if you don’t want to hear it from us, try Seiko themselves. According to the brand’s 2025 Q2 report, their 2024 Financial Year (April 2024 – March 2025) saw their net global watch sales swell by nearly 12%. An impressive feat, especially considering that the Swiss Federation of the Watch Industry (FHS) reported a near 3% decline in Swiss watch exports in 2024. Seiko And Watch Advice Team Up For An Amazing Collector Night But of course, these triumphs aren’t just because people suddenly decided to buy Seik...

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[VIDEO] Hands-On: The Incredibly Wearable Grand Seiko SLGW007 Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko SLGW007 It’s very telling Nov 28, 2025

[VIDEO] Hands-On: The Incredibly Wearable Grand Seiko SLGW007

It’s very telling to me to see what my initial reactions were to a watch when it was announced. At Watches and Wonders 2024, Grand Seiko launched the SLGW003 “birch bark” featuring a new movement, the manual-wound 9SA4, and a new case within the Evolution 9 series. Looking back at the video that Zach Kazan and I shot to accompany the announcement post, you can see just how excited we were about it, despite being jet-lagged and inundated with new releases. The interesting part is that the new movement, which by all measures is the more significant development for the brand in terms of R&D;, played second fiddle to the case, which addressed some enthusiast issues with Grand Seikos. At 38.6mm x 45mm x 9.95mm, the SLGW003 had idyllic proportions, particularly in terms of thickness, which has long been a thorn in GS’s Zaratsu-polished side. Additionally, the 003 featured 20mm lugs, an uncommon feature for a GS, yet the most common strap width. It’s funny how big a deal a couple of dimensions can be, and yet, as you can see, it’s what we cared about most. Since that release, Grand Seiko has only used the 9SA4 in one other set of watches, the epically cool 45GS tribute SLGW005 and its precious metal sibling, the SLGW004, but not until the SLGW007, the watch I’m actually supposed to be writing about, have we seen a return to that new case design. Although I’ve encountered the SLGW003 in person a couple of times, I haven’t had the chance to wear it for more than a ...

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Hands-on – The Frederique Constant Classics Premiere Cloud Blue (Incl. Video) Monochrome
Frederique Constant Classics Premiere Cloud Blue Nov 26, 2025

Hands-on – The Frederique Constant Classics Premiere Cloud Blue (Incl. Video)

Frederique Constant already impressed us with the salmon dial version launched as a Europe-exclusive model. The recent blue-dial Frederique Constant Classics Premiere on bracelet is another proof that “accessible luxury” doesn’t have to mean “generic.” It’s still the same compact, classically styled three-hander launched in 2023, but the move to a differently styled dial and […]

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Hands-On Review Of The New Zenith DEFY Skyline Tourbillon WatchAdvice
Zenith DEFY Skyline Tourbillon Nov 15, 2025

Hands-On Review Of The New Zenith DEFY Skyline Tourbillon

A tourbillon with attitude and a dial that refuses to be ignored. Zenith takes the DEFY Skyline to a whole new level with this rose-gold powerhouse. Bold, modern, and seriously impressive on the wrist! What We Love The combination of a brick-red dial with 18kt rose gold is the perfect combination. Rich, warm, and instantly eye-catching. High-frequency movement and a flying tourbillon is an extremely rare combination that Zenith has executed with some serious technical finesse. From the mirror-polished chamfers to the brushed facets and the rose-gold rotor, everything feels intentional, premium, and beautifully executed. What We Don’t Limited versatility when on the full-gold bracelet. It pushes the watch firmly into “special occasion” territory. A premium model with stunning looks and highly technical movement, the price, however, might put the watch out of reach for many. While the rotor and caseback finishing are gorgeous, much of the movement is still closed off, and some collectors may wish for a more open view. Overall Rating: 9.1/10 Value for money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 9.5/10 Design: 9.5/10 Build quality: 9/10 Zenith has long stood as a brand that has valued itself on precision and bold mechanical innovation, all the way from its roots back in Le Locle in 1865. This has become apparent even more with the invention of the El Primero movement, cementing the brand’s position as one of the leaders of high-beat performance. In the modern era of watchmaking, Zenith...

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