3,776 articles · 2,740 videos found · page 82 of 218
Quill & Pad
Breguet was an engineer, an astronomer and also a designer. He adapted certain techniques to horology, such as guilloché, for example. The art of Breguet is in the details, in the finishing, and the artworks at Frieze are also all about the details … an artwork is something you have to look at multiple times, and each time, you're going to discover different things.
Teddy Baldassarre
While it was established relatively recently, in 1994, Glashütte Original can legitimately trace its lineage as far back as 1845, which also happens to be the year that watchmaking essentially arrived as an industry in Germany. As I cover in much greater detail in this article, a full century of horological tradition, centered in the town of Glashütte in the state of Saxony, came to an end with Germany’s defeat in World War II. It was replaced by a new era in which a state-owned conglomerate of once-independent heritage watch manufacturers, the Glashütter Uhrenbetriebe or GUB, shifted focus from artisanal techniques and luxuriously decorative timepieces to mass-produced tool watches for military and civilian customers. Many of the watches produced in the GUB era - spanning the Cold War years from 1951 up to the fall of the Berlin Wall in 1990 - are largely forgettable, but Glashütte Original, the luxury-watch firm that emerged from the dissolution of the GUB, has cherry-picked the most interesting and memorable of those utilitarian timepieces, produced in the late 1960s and ‘70s, for modern reimagining in its “Spezialist” series. Serving as the base model for the Spezialist models is a single, now-collectible divers’ sport watch from 1969, the Spezimatic Type RP TS 200, which was the first dive watch produced in Germany (technically, at the time, East Germany) that met the international ISO 6425 standard. Glashütte Original paid tribute to the fondly rem...
SJX Watches
The newest member of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s line of sports watches, the Polaris Geographic is a dual time zone in a modern “ocean grey” with orange accents with a practical dial layout showing a second time zone, day-night indicator, cities disc for the world time, and the power reserve. Initial thoughts Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) first introduced this complication over three decades ago as the Géographique, a full-featured travel watch that stood out from most of the simpler travel watches of the time. But it had a fairly cluttered dial, so the new Geographic is simplified, with the key change being the removal of the date. This streamlines the aesthetic though some might find the date more practical than the power reserve indicator. The movement inside is an upgraded version of the calibre in the 1990s Géographique and now has a three-day power reserve, but is still relatively complex to set. A more useful update would have been a more intuitive time zone-setting function. The Polaris Geographic retails for US$16,100, which feels steep, particularly since JLC has historically been affordable more affordable watchmaking of good, industrial-artisanal quality. A diving dual time zone The new Geographic adopts the style of the Polaris line, which is a modern-ish dive watch look with an inner rotation bezel. The layout remains the familiar one found on past generations of the model, with the second time zone in a sub-dial at six and the day-night indicator to its left. A...
Teddy Baldassarre
Among the many decisions facing a prospective watch buyer before pulling the trigger on a new timepiece, is choosing which type of strap or bracelet it should have. We covered the various types of watch straps in this article; read on for our rundown of the most popular watch bracelets, focusing on some of the influential, proprietary styles from brands like Rolex and Breitling, which have impacted numerous other brands’ designs, as well as more niche-oriented options geared to collectors and historical-minded enthusiasts. Oyster Bracelet Rolex’s iconic Oyster bracelet is the template from which many other three-link bracelet styles have been drawn. Its name comes from its association with the Oyster case, which Rolex first introduced in 1926 and for which the original version of this bracelet served as an extension. Oyster bracelets are recognizable for their wide center links bordered by thinner end-links. Rolex patented the design in 1947 and fitted one on a watch in 1948. In the early versions, the links were riveted; these were phased out in favor of a “folding” style in 1967, which eventually gave way to the modern, solid-link style in 1975. Three-link bracelets like the Oyster and its various descendants are particularly popular on sports watches and dive watches. President Bracelet The Rolex Day-Date appeared on the market in 1956 and with it came a new three-link bracelet called the President. Intended as the epitome of Rolex’s luxurious bracelet optio...
Worn & Wound
Growing up in the late ‘90s and early ‘00s, there were plenty of things I missed out on. I was too late to see the Rangers win the Stanley Cup, was rarely allowed to sit in rear-facing seats in the back of a car, and Nickelodeon’s Legends of the Hidden Temple was in re-runs before I was old enough to compete. According to my parents, I also missed out on one of the great toys of their youth - quicksilver. Growing up, they would often tell stories of cracking open a thermometer to play with the mysterious liquid metal inside, before making it very clear that the element also known as mercury was strictly off-limits. Now, thanks to a collaboration between Revolution and Isotope, we all have the opportunity to re-capture some of the fun of that elusive metal. The Isotope x Revolution Mercury draws inspiration from not only the aforementioned element but also the iconic Mercury Streamliner train designed by Henry Dreyfuss and the Roman god Mercury, from whom both the train and the element take their names. The result is a unique watch with a level of polish I’m not sure I’ve ever encountered before - though the Sartory Billard and Grail Watch SB07 “Ghost” sure comes close. The Mercury answers the question of what a dress watch from Isotope would look like. The Art Deco-inspired cushion case of the Mercury measures 38mm across, 44.5mm lug-to-lug, 10mm thick, with a 20mm lug width, and is 100 meters water resistant. It’s also fully mirror-polished. And when...
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SJX Watches
Nature-inspired textures are a consistent motif across Grand Seiko’s portfolio, so it comes as little surprise that the brand would choose this familiar theme for the launch of its newest dress watches, the hand-wind and mechanical Evolution 9 “Birch Bark” SLGW002 and SLGW003. With a dial that features a fresh take on the texture of tree bark, the Birch Bark is also noteworthy for the movement within: the first manually-wound caliber in Grand Seiko’s 9S movement family that hitherto was entirely self-winding. The SLGW002 (left) and SLGW003 Initial thoughts There are few things I like more than a manually wound, chronometer-grade dress watch. With this bias in mind, I am predisposed to like watches like the Birch Bark. But Grand Seiko made things easy by making it attractive as well, with a new iteration of its Evolution 9 design language that is lighter in terms of visual weight. The big news is, of course, the thickness, or rather the lack thereof. The Birch Bark is 1.75 mm (15%) thinner than its automatic siblings like the SLGH003, answering’ calls for slimmer, dressier options in the Grand Seiko catalogue. The watch is also 1.4 mm (3.5%) smaller in diameter, resulting in a form factor that sits comfortably on the average wrist and will slide under most shirt cuffs. Dimensions aside, the Birch Bark in titanium feels smaller and lighter than expected due to the case material. This runs counter to expectations, since most dress watches are in precious metal....
SJX Watches
In anticipation of the upcoming Monaco Grand Prix, TAG Heuer takes the covers off the Monaco Chronograph “Dark Blue”, a variant of last year’s Skeleton Dial that retains the open-worked dial that’s now in a restrained blue with vibrant yellow accents, match with a case coated in diamond-like carbon (DLC). Initial thoughts The new Monaco makes an immediate impression with its striking colours and open-worked design. It’s essentially a darker version of last year’s model (that was almost electric blue), with the muted blue a good compliment for yellow accents on the counters, central and hands, while also matching the all-black case. Aside from the aesthetic refinements, this is fundamentally a Monaco Skeleton Dial, with the same calibre and dimensions. Appropriately, it is priced the same as last year’s equivalent Skeleton Dial model. However, the Skeleton Dial is not quite a value proposition as it’s priced quite a bit higher than the Monaco “Dark Lord” that has the same movement. Muted colours The latest Monaco is making its debut just in time for the Monaco Grand Prix that begins this weekend. It’s essentially a chromatic variation of Skeleton Dial “Turquoise”, with the same open-worked dial showcasing the mechanics. The primary distinction is the lattice-like dial that is now in a dark, navy blue. It’s matched with yellow lacquered hands for the chronograph, which are echoed by yellow markings on the oscillating weight and column wheel visib...
Worn & Wound
It’s been a few years since Ming released the massively popular 18.01 H41 dive watch, and fans of the brand have been clamoring for more ever since. It would have been easy enough for Ming to re-release the 18.01, maybe with a new colorway, but the brand is not one to rest on their past successes and the Ming 37.09 Bluefin is far more than a slight update to a familiar model. Instead, Ming has completely re-thought what a dive watch from Ming can be, and the results are absolutely stunning - and quintessentially Ming. If you follow Ming on social media, the release of the 37.09 Bluefin today shouldn’t come as much of a surprise. After all, the brand has been posting throwbacks and teasers left and right to get us all excited about this release. Today, we get to see the new watch: A 600 meter water-resistant, dual crown diver inspired by the architecture of Ming’s recent 37-series watches, complete with Ming’s signature flared lugs and a preposterous preponderance of lume. Whether putting out affordable time-only watches or ultra-light record-setters and wild tourbillons, Ming has been unafraid and uncompromising. This details-first approach might help to explain why it took so long for Ming to follow up on the 18.01. Apparently, Ming experimented with several successors to their first dive watch, focusing on outperforming the 1000 meter water-resistant dive watch on a technical level. Eventually, after producing several prototypes at thicknesses creeping up to ...
SJX Watches
To mark 20 years of its first boutique, and also 20 years of limited editions, F.P. Journe has created its final limited edition of any sort. Limited to 200 pieces, the F.P. Journe Chronographe FB is a flyback chronograph with big date that’s powered by the manual-wind cal. 1518.2. Like past boutique anniversary editions, this has a titanium case with pink gold accents. Initial thoughts In terms of intrinsic attributes, the Chronographe FB scores well on all counts. It is a good looking watch that is priced well. The FB doesn’t depart from the established aesthetic for boutique editions, which is a good thing since the titanium-and-gold combination is appealing. The watch is classical F.P. Journe in terms of dimensions at 40 mm wide and just over 10 mm high, which makes it elegantly slim. Styling aside, the FB is also notable as it is equipped with a new calibre. Few brands design new movements for a small-run limited edition. Admittedly the cal. 1518.2 inside is based on the current split-seconds movement, but it is still a new, different construction. Technically, the movement is not as much of an achievement as say the FFC or Vagabondage III, but it is executed well, and the watch is priced right for the complication. As is typical for majority of F.P. Journe watches, the Chronographe FB is reasonably priced at retail, just CHF90,000 before taxes. Accessibility, rather than affordability, is instead the problem. That’s true despite the 200 piece run is bigger than...
Worn & Wound
Massena LAB has announced a new collaboration with independent watchmaker Raúl Pagès inspired by one of the most important Patek Philippe watches of the last century. The Absinthe, which serves as the direct follow-up to the pair’s massively successful 2022 release, the Magraph, brings together a proprietary hand-wound movement, a strikingly green dial (reminiscent of the infamous spirit for which the watch is named), and all the vintage charm we have come to expect from Massena LAB in one surprisingly affordable (and highly limited) package. William Massena is one of those rare figures in the watch industry who everyone seems to know. He’s an outsized presence who seemingly manages to be everywhere at once and have a hand in every facet of the watch industry. Over the last few years though, his name has come to be associated primarily with Massena LAB, where he consistently produces some of the most talked about limited editions and collaborations on the market. This latest release follows closely on the heels of a watch introduced last month. That watch - a collaboration between Massena LAB, Pagès, and Phillips Auction House in association with Bass & Russo - debuted the M690 movement used in the Absinthe and drew inspiration in its layout from the iconic (and record-setting) 1952 Patek Philippe ref. 2458 produced for J.B. Champion, Jr. That watch was one of only two Patek wrist watches to have been fitted with an Observatory-grade movement, and its unique d...
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Deployant
Bell & Ross adds to their rather extensive BR 03 catalog with a new model with a white dial on a steel and gold bi-metal case.
SJX Watches
Tissot added to the Chemin Des Tourelles Squelette collection of accessibly-priced skeleton watches. Sharing the same exact case design as last year’s updated model, the trio of new additions have open-worked dials that display the inner workings of the Powermatic 80 calibre. Both the styling and movement are no-frills, and matched with a price below US$1,000, making them a good option for the beginner enthusiast. Initial thoughts Tissot is known for affordable Swiss-made watches and the Chemin des Tourelles Skeleton is exactly that. The novelty of the watch lies in the open dial that reveals the skeleton movement. Although the calibre isn’t fancily executed, it is cleanly finished and provides visual detail that sets this apart from most similarly priced watches. The design is also enhanced by the fact that it doesn’t have a date, which gives the dial a clean, symmetrical appearance. Priced between US$895 and US$975, the Chemin des Tourelles Skeleton is a good value proposition, especially since skeleton watches are not common in this price segment. Entry-level skeleton While the sporty PRX collection is now its most high profile product, the brand overhauled the Chemin des Tourelles line last year. Named after the street where the Tissot headquarters are located, Chemin des Tourelles is made up of dress watches, with the skeleton model being the top-of-the-line. The Chemin des Tourelles Skeleton has a case that’s 39 mm in diameter and 11.2 mm thick, with a domed ...
Time+Tide
Casio might be the masters of resin watches, but there's just something undeniably cool about a proper steel G-SHOCK.The post The full metal Casio GMW-B5000D-2DR & GM-B2100AD-2ADR make the case for elevated G-SHOCK watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Alongside its results for the year ended March 2024 – with revenue at an all-time high but marked by slowing growth – Richemont announced a major management revamp with Nicolas Bos promoted to chief executive officer of the group that owns brands like Cartier and Piaget. His predecessor (but not exactly), Jérôme Lambert, will be the group’s chief operating officer. Having led Van Cleef & Arpels (VC&A;) for just over a decade, Mr Bos skilfully grew the jeweller’s revenue more than sixfold during his tenure. At the same time, he managed to established a recognisable identity for VC&A;, one distinct from its bigger sibling, Cartier. He has spent practically his entire career at Richemont, having joined the group in 1992. Prior to taking the top job at VC&A;, he was its creative director, a role he retained even after becoming the jeweller’s chief executive. Effective June 1, the promotion of Mr Bos lends credence to talk of retirement for Cartier boss Cyrille Vigneron, who at 63 is nearing the group’s retirement age. Having led Cartier since 2015, Mr Vigneron has transformed it into a reliably profit generator that accounts for about half of the group’s revenue and a great deal of its profits. And next most profitable brand in Richemont is of course VC&A;. Jerome Lambert Some are more equal than others Mr Bos’ new job implies a demotion of sorts for Mr Lambert, who was appointed chief executive officer in 2018, after having led Jaeger-LeCoultre and then Montbla...
Time+Tide
Metallurgy is one of those rare studies which still manages to feel like magic in the 21st century, even when we have all the science we need to understand it. For most people however, the mystery ends with the simple knowledge that silver is a white metal, and gold has a couple of different numbers … ContinuedThe post The Time+Tide guide to universal hallmarks appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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SJX Watches
A brand founded by a trio of industry insiders, Kollokium debuted with a modern, brutalist-inspired timepiece distinguished by a quirky, studded dial. The follow-up, the Projekt 1 Variant “B”, features the same matte black dial that now glows blue in the dark, while retaining the cast-steel case and domed, “glass box” sapphire crystal. Initial thoughts Quirky and perhaps polarising, the Projekt 01 stands out with its industrial, slightly raw aesthetic. The latest version retains the same feel as the original, but now with a more restrained palette instead of the vivid, and slightly angry, red and orange of the original. Variant “B” is a low-key black and white in the light, and then glows a cool blue in the dark. Otherwise identical to its predecessor, the Variant “B” remains affordable at CHF 2,666.66. Although there are many micro brands and establishment names competing in this price segment, Kollokium offers something different that is nonetheless a practical watch. The Variant “B” The Variant “B” is the latest iteration of Kollokium’s inaugural model, which launched last year as a 99-piece limited edition offered only to friends and associates of the founders, Manuel Emch, Barth Nussbaumer, and Amr Sindi, respectively an entrepreneur, designer, and media consultant. Variant “B”, on the other hand, is limited to 199 pieces and available to the public. Last year’s Projekt 01 “Friends & Family” that glows orange in the dark Like the o...
Teddy Baldassarre
For many watch enthusiasts, a Timex watch is the gateway drug for a lifetime of timepiece obsession - understated in presentation, stylish in execution, affordable in price and found just about everywhere. And what Timex may lack in prestige and collectibility, especially when stacked up against industry titans from Switzerland, it makes up for in the key role it has played in "democratizing" timekeeping and for its undeniable influence on Americana and popular culture. How much do you really know about Timex? Read on for a brief but detailed historical perspective, followed by a showcase of the most noteworthy Timex watches on the market now. Waterbury Clock Company Factory From its earliest days, the company now known as Timex was dedicated to making timekeepers that were both reliable and affordable to the masses. Based in Waterbury, Connecticut, and originally a division of brass manufacturer Benedict & Burnham, the Waterbury Clock Company opened its doors in 1854, specializing in the mass production of clocks with gears and wheels made of brass. By 1857, when it was incorporated as an independent business, Waterbury Clock Company was churning out millions of clocks, all priced lower than their European competitors, with parts sourced from manufacturers in Connecticut’s Naugatuck Valley region, which became known at the time as the “Switzerland of America;” Waterbury, the largest city in the region, still carries the nickname “Brass City.” The manufacturi...
SJX Watches
A budget-friendly dress watch, the Orient Bambino is robust and usually priced well below US$300, making it a good option for the entry-level or budget-minded watch enthusiast. Now, the Japanese watch brand added the Bambino 38 “Small Seconds” to the range. Offered in steel or a gold-plated finish, the new Bambino combines a compact case with a retro-style dial featuring a sub-seconds at six and Roman numerals. Initial thoughts The Bambino in its many variants is a compelling value proposition, marrying good quality with an attractive design. It’s the Orient equivalent of the Seiko 5. The model’s past designs have been a mixed bag, while the new Small Seconds is a more cohesive design. The latest iterations, particularly the silver dial, evoke 1930s watches with the railroad minute track and alternating baton-and-Roman markers. However, as is sometimes the case with vintage-inspired designs, this would benefit from revamping of the date, which is practical but gets in the way of the design. Aside from the cosmetic enhancements, the Bambino 38 Small Seconds retains the same in-house calibre as its predecessors, a no-frills movement that isn’t pretty but adequate given the model’s affordability. Retailing for US$344 for the steel models and a $24 hike for the gold-plated version, these remain commendable value propositions. A vintage-inspired dress watch The latest addition to the Bambino collection incorporates many elements from the existing models. It inhe...
Worn & Wound
A few weeks back, I found myself sitting at the end of my kitchen island on a phone call with a man I have never met, but with whose collection I am intimately familiar. After all, CB - better known as @onlybuyingtime - has over 30k followers on Instagram, he is a voting member of the GPHG, and he is the owner and caretaker of, quite frankly, one of the most diverse collections of independent watches I’ve seen anywhere. CB has been collecting for the entirety of his adult life, though his fascination with watches extends back further. As he describes it, CB had “fun watches as a kid,” but it was only in adulthood that he really started collecting in a tangible way. “It wasn’t like I had a parent or anybody that was really into watches. I think I really fell into it as an adult and realized this is something that’s very unique to each man. It tells a lot about a personality. If you are in a sports watch vs. a dress watch; the colors, the make, the models, the complications, all that stuff tells a lot about somebody. And for me, it’s just another level of expression.” Modern Day Patronage One of the great treasures of Philadelphia is the Barnes Foundation which is, for those unfamiliar, one of the world’s stand-out collections of impressionist, post-impressionist, and modern art. When I first moved to Philly in 2022, it took me less than a week to visit the Barnes for the first time, and, in a city filled with great museums, it remains my favorite, and...
SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) unveils a new variant of the Master Grande Tradition Calibre 948 World-Timer, combining an 18k pink gold case with a domed, champlevé enamel dial depicting the Northern Hemisphere. As the name suggests, the watch features the cal. 948 with an orbital tourbillon that makes one revolution around the dial every 24 hours in conjunction with the map, mimicking the Earth’s orbit around the Sun. Dial and case metal aside, this is essentially identical to the white gold model released in 2022. Initial thoughts As a variation of an existing model, the new Calibre 948 World-Timer is not entirely novel. It is, however, a quite a stunning watch in both looks and mechanics. The enamel dial and pink gold case are in a rich, complementary colours, resulting in a striking, warm aesthetics. And the level of execution is also high, reflecting JLC’s strength in industrial-artisanal high-end watchmaking. That said, with JLC’s storied history, it feels like the brand can do more than rehash this tourbillon (and the Duometre as it did at Watches & Wonders earlier this year). The watchmaker’s watchmaker Sometimes known as the watchmaker’s watchmaker, JLC historically supplied calibres to many notable brands, including the “Holy Trinity” of Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, and Vacheron Constantin. As a result, it has a manufacturing know-how that is amongst the best in the mid- to high-end of Swiss watchmaking. A world-time orbital tourbillon with a champlev...
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Worn & Wound
Snoopy and the rest of Charles Schulz’s iconic Peanuts characters have graced newspaper pages since 1950 and for nearly as long, the gang has partnered with Timex to create special edition watch collaborations. Together they bring a playfulness to the wrist like few brands can. Whether you grew up reading the Sunday funnies or watching the holiday-themed specials, their collaborative collection is nostalgic, cheerful, and beloved by casual wearers and knowledgeable collectors alike. The first Timex x Peanuts watches were originally introduced in 1969, and everyone’s favorite characters have all found their way across numerous Timex watches in the 55 years since. New for 2024 is a gold-tone stainless steel Timex Marlin featuring The World-Famous Tennis Player, one of Snoopy’s alter-egos, which was first introduced in 1970. According to the legend himself, he hates playing against top players like Arthur Ashe and Jimmy Connors because they “keep hitting the ball back.” This manually wound timepiece is packed with delightful details, as Snoopy’s arms and his tennis ball are used to read the time. His racket arm tells the minutes, while his other arm displays the hours, and the tennis ball represents the seconds. There is a very neat animation on the Timex website that shows the hands in motion, depicting our favorite beagle in mid-swing. Powering this one is a Japanese Miyota movement and measurements are 34mm in diameter by 10mm in thickness. The whimsical Time...
Worn & Wound
“War, war never changes.” An opening line that many Fallout fans will remember and a chilling comment about the nature of humanity. Based some 200 years in the future, the Fallout universe offers a striking look at what could become, if a nuclear apocalypse were to occur. Filled with witty one-liners, brutal imagery, and a splash of romance, Fallout has come to life in a live-action interpretation available to stream now on Amazon Prime. Based on the original video games, the new series features a unique perspective on “Vault Dweller” life and offers new lore about the beginning of the end. I’ll stop before I spoil anything, but as a fan of the games, sci-fi, and dystopian imagery, I can’t recommend this show enough. While I hope that this universe stays science-fiction, it did raise a question in my mind: What gear would I trust to keep me alive in a world like the one portrayed in the series? While several different scenarios could play out in a post-nuclear world, I’m going to stick to one that most follows the show: You’ve survived for many years in a vault, and are now leaving home in search of something important (remember, no spoilers to the show here). All of these items would have been acquired and stored within the vault since it was built. In this scenario, I’d need to carry all of my gear in my pack, and gear failure is not an option. These are the pieces of gear I’d trust in this extremely hypothetical scenario. Knife – Giant Mouse GMF4...
SJX Watches
An ambitious evolution of its signature square-cased chronograph, the Monaco Split-Seconds was first revealed as a unique piece for Only Watch. Although the regular production version was launched earlier this year, the one-off example made for Only Watch remains unique for the finishing on the case and movement. Initial thoughts Powered by a sophisticated Vaucher calibre, the Monaco rattrapante is mostly made of titanium – the alloy is used for the case and movement – and a deft evolution of the Monaco case. On the wrist, the watch feels good as it is noticeably lightweight despite being quite large. The case design is evidently derived from the original but smartly reworked to give it a more pronounced, stylised form. Details like the facetted sapphire crystals and oversized pushers complement the styling. Overall, the aesthetic is the hyper-mechanical look of the same school as Richard Mille and Hublot, but here executed to a high level thanks to the Vaucher calibre that’s hand finished. The only element of the design I would do away with is the “X” bridge on the dial, which feels like an affectation that doesn’t really do much for the design. But overall the aesthetic is cohesive and appealing. Importantly, the watch acquits itself well up close. The finishing on the titanium bridges and plates of the movement is particularly impressively, given the difficulty of achieving a mirror polish on the alloy. And because the Vaucher calibre is a high-end construct...
Monochrome
Carl F. Bucherer embraces almost every facet of watchmaking. Operating since 1888, Carl F. Bucherer started retailing luxury watches and jewellery in Lucerne before going international. In 1919, Bucherer spotted another niche and began manufacturing its own branded watches. With a rich archive of material, Carl F. Bucherer’s Heritage collection is home to reeditions of […]
SJX Watches
The two most important examples of independent watchmaking in Only Watch 2024 are arguably the stealthy F.P. Journe Chronomètre Furtif Bleu and the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Antimagnétique, each a significant creation of a leading watchmaker of his generation (and interesting enough, both are sports watches). Inspired by mid-20th century explorer’s watches that were magnetism-resistant, the Chronomètre Antimagnétique (RRCA) is an elegant but robust watch with a stainless steel case and an entirely new calibre equipped with an indirectly-driven centre seconds with a hacking, zero-reset mechanism. In its Only Watch form, the RRCA is a unique watch but also a prototype for a new line of elegant sports watches. NB: The watch pictured is a work in progress that is not entirely finished so the dial is a prototype and the movement is not perfectly clean. It will be delivered in a perfect state to the eventual owner. Initial thoughts Many of the RRCA’s details bring to mind mid-20th century “sports” watches. Not the sports watches we know of today, but rather the water-resistant Patek Philippe watches made in the 1940s and 1950s for gentlemen sportsmen and adventurers. This reflects with Rexhep Rexhepi’s respect for traditional Geneva watchmaking, which is also expressed in the RRCC but in a different manner. The RRCA subtly marks a new direction for Rexhep Rexhepi’s aesthetics. It’s clearly a thoughtful evolution of the RRCC. While the RRCC is a dress watch, ...
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