Revolution
Zooming In with Max Büsser & the HM10 “Bulldog”
Practicing social distancing, Wei Koh speaks with Max Büsser of MB&F; via Zoom video chat about the recently announced HM10 “Bulldog” and much more.
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Revolution
SJX Watches
The Low-Key Debut of the Coolest Recent IWC Big Pilot
Last month IWC premiered a limited edition that has all the qualities of a hit: a bestselling classic in an exotic material, made in a very small run – and also incorporating nerdy, collector-oriented details. Instead, the IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Edition Black Carbon was debuted quietly, delivered to clients, and pretty much went unnoticed around the world. The first ever Big Pilot with a carbon fibre composite case, the Big Pilot Black Carbon has a black dial with grey hands and markings, replicating the colour of the composite case. It’s livened up by red accents on the power reserve indicator and seconds hand (and also the date disc, for a small number of special watches, more on that below). The famous “fish” More unusually, the Big Pilot Black Carbon has a “fish” crown – the oversized, onion-shaped winding crown has a stylised fish logo on its top. Despite being a seemingly trivial detail, the “fish” crown is dear to IWC enthusiasts, being a memorable element from IWC’s 20th century history – one many collectors regard as a golden age. From the 1950s until the mid-2000s, most water-resistant IWC watches featured a “fish” crown. The very first generation of the Big Pilot, the ref. 5002 introduced in 2002, featured a “fish” crown. Not long after, the “fish” crown was dispensed with in favour of a crown featuring the IWC “Probus Scafusia” emblem. This happened sometime in 2006, first with a “transitional” ref. 5002 that was equi...
SJX Watches
Breitling Introduces the Top Time “Zorro” Dial
Following the faithful and well-received Navitimer 806 and AVI Ref. 765 1953 re-editions – both very much instruments for pilots back in the day – Breitling has now recreated a distinctly different watch from the archives – the Top Time “Zorro”. And while the new Top Time takes its cues from the past, it will be sold entirely online via Breitling’s website, at least initially. Produced from the 1960s to the 1970s, the Top Time was Breitling’s simpler and more affordable line of chronographs designed to appeal to younger buyers – which is also the rationale behind the new remake. Unlike the Chronomat or Navitimer, which were mostly no-nonsense tools equipped with slide-rule bezels for pilots to do in-flight navigation, the Top Time did away with the slide-rule bezel and relied on a more generic style emblematic of the era. The Top Time limited edition Despite being an entry-level mode, the original Top Time had a starring appearance on the big screen: a Top Time ref. 2002, with a “reverse panda” dial and a fictional Geiger counter, was worn by Sean Connery in Thunderball. The very watch worn in the movie sold for £103,875 at Christie’s in 2013, not long after surfacing at a car boot sale where it was purchased for £25. While the “panda” or “reverse panda” variants are arguably the iconic versions of the Top Time, the new remake is modelled on the more unusual Top Time ref. 2003 equipped with a gold-plated case and “Zorro” dial (or the r...
Time+Tide
Everything you need to know about French brand Yema watches, and their four key models
If you didn’t spend much time diving in the Azure Seas in coastal France in the late ’60s, chances are you may not be entirely familiar with the French brand Yema. With its most popular models having a subdued appearance, and not featuring ‘Swiss Made’ plastered all over the dial, it can be easy for … ContinuedThe post Everything you need to know about French brand Yema watches, and their four key models appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
The G-Shock CasiOak: Overhyped or Just Right?
Few watch releases have had as much impact as the CasiOak. But is the popularity justified? Check out our hands-on feature right here!
Revolution
The Return of the Pulsar
[vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]Did you know that Gianni Agnelli is attributed to have worn and lent to the popularity of a watch from 1972, that cost as much as a car at the...
Revolution
1996 36mm Steel Franck Muller Chrono Seen on A Collected Man
Revolution speaks with the team at A Collected Man on their recently listed 1996 steel Franck Muller Chronograph and why it looks so much like the Roger Dubuis Hommage Chronograph.
Time+Tide
Land, Sky or Sea – 5 Bremonts whose claim to fame is toughness
British watchmaker Bremont may have only been around since 2002, but in that time they’ve earned respect for watches that are durable and robust to an extreme degree, and British to a tee at all times throughout. Few breakthroughs have helped this reputation quite as much as the significant percentage of watches Bremont produce being … ContinuedThe post Land, Sky or Sea – 5 Bremonts whose claim to fame is toughness appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
IN-DEPTH: The Apple Watch Series 5 review for people on the go
As I mentioned in my video review of the Apple Watch Series 5, this isn’t the sort of watch that Time+Tide typically reviews. But since 2017, when the Series 2 was launched, the Apple Watch has made headline after headline as it sold millions of units and increasingly worried Swiss watch executives. This shifted the … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The Apple Watch Series 5 review for people on the go appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe Calatrava Diamond Ribbon Joaillerie Ref. 4978/400G: Swirl Into Infatuation
As much as they may glitter, the diamonds are not the most critical thing in a diamond-set watch: the setting is. Creating a diamond-set watch is not at all as easy as many think, but when done right the result can be spectacular – as is the case with the Patek Philippe Diamond Ribbon Joaillerie.
Time+Tide
Was this the greatest limited edition Seiko of 2019?
Editor’s note: Seiko dropped what seemed like an innumerable amount of limited edition timepieces in 2019, and that got us thinking – which one was best? That’s a much tougher question than it sounds, but this SLA033 dive watch surely has to be in the running. A revival of the prolific 6105, a watch made … ContinuedThe post Was this the greatest limited edition Seiko of 2019? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Counterpoint: Double Wristing with a Smartwatch
Recently, Time+Tide put out an Instagram survey asking you, the reader, to express your opinion about wearing a smartwatch on one wrist and a mechanical watch on the other. I was really surprised to see the survey turn out heavily against this practice and here’s why … I like tech just as much as the … ContinuedThe post Counterpoint: Double Wristing with a Smartwatch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Ep. #164: Hey, Bro – Nice Fashion Watch
This week we're tackling more horological prejudices by taking a deep dive into a single burning question: why all the fashion watch hate? When we make the transition from horological civilians to watch collectors why is there so much hate for fashion watches (i.e. Timex, Michael Kors, Fossil, Kate Spade, etc.)?
Deployant
Chillout TGIF: Pegoretti Responsorium
In the world of bicycling, the master artisans are much like watchmaking.We take a look at the Responsorium, the masterwork Dario Pegoretti.
Time+Tide
What Sealed The Deal – James’s Baume & Mercier Capeland Chronograph
Well, this is a bit different to a normal What Sealed The Deal … seeing as this Baume & Mercier Capeland Chronograph is actually my watch. I purchased it late last year after a particularly dogged haggling match that started with a seemingly innocuous Gumtree.com ad. Anyway, I’ll spare you the deets of the torrid exchange … ContinuedThe post What Sealed The Deal – James’s Baume & Mercier Capeland Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Breguet Classique Dame Ref. 9065 Features Tahitian Mother-Of-Pearl Dial And More Than A Touch Of Romance
Breguet launches the Classique Dame Reference 9065 in time to celebrate Valentine’s Day and the season of love, but rest assured this watch is the right choice any time. Martin Green thinks that's largely due to the Tahitian mother-of-pearl dial, but there's much more to this colorful delight as he explains here.
Time+Tide
Weekend watch spotting with JR: The Japan edition
Australia and Seiko have always had a strong relationship … in fact, pretty much every major Japanese watchmaker, whether it be Seiko, Grand Seiko, Casio, Citizen … whomever it is, we folk Down Under love a Japanese timepiece. And, out on my watch spotting expedition at the weekend, this sentiment was shored up no end. … ContinuedThe post Weekend watch spotting with JR: The Japan edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Found: A Seiko 6306 From A 1979 Antarctic Research Expedition
A different kind of iced-out watch. Much less polarizing.
SJX Watches
Face-Off: Seiko Credor Eichi II 7R14 vs. Grand Seiko Spring Drive 9R02
When it comes to finely-finished, time-only movements, the ultimate Seiko offerings are the Credor Eichi II and Grand Seiko Spring Drive 20th Anniversary. The Japanese equivalent of watches like the Akrivia Chronometre Contemporain and Philippe Dufour Simplicity, the pair are the work of the Micro Artist Studio and finished to the same magnificent level, broadly speaking. (The Grand Seiko 8 Day is of the same quality, but it is a much larger and more complex watch.) Because the movements, the 7R14 in the Eichi II and 9R02 in Grand Seiko SBGZ001 and SBGZ003, are fundamentally identical, comparing the finer details of the two – an enlightened, obsessive nitpicking – makes for some interesting conclusions. The 7R14 in the Eichi II (left) and the 9R02 of the Grand Seiko SBGZ001 The sampled are both finished examples that were purchased in stores, and not prototypes, so both are representative of their respective model and movement. Though both were made in the Seiko-Epson’s Micro Artist Studio, probably by the very same craftsmen, the Eichi II was produced in 2015, while the Grand Seiko SBGZ001 dates to 2019, which is the year of its launch, and is the property of Mark Cho, founder of menswear retailer The Armoury. Same but different Both movements share the same architecture and layout, with the key functional difference being the power reserve, in both duration and display. The Eichi II’s 7R14 has a single barrel and a 60-hour power reserve, indicated on a fan-sha...
SJX Watches
Up Close: Ulysse Nardin Executive Tourbillon Free Wheel
With the Freak being the undisputed flagship complication of Ulysse Nardin – as well as a historically important watch – many of the brand’s other technical accomplishments often go under the radar. One intriguing offering that hasn’t gotten much attention: the Executive Tourbillon Free Wheel. Despite the somewhat dull name, the Tourbillon Free Wheel is a compelling reinterpretation of a mystery clock – where the mechanics are artfully hidden and exposed for visual effect – that is both fascinating and exotic. The Executive Tourbillon Free Wheel with an aventurine dial While the base model of the Executive collection features a largely conventional, open-worked movement, the Tourbillon Free Wheel takes things a step further by elevating the crucial parts of the movement like the barrel, tourbillon regulator, and gear train for the power reserve. In fact, most of the components are “floating” – the movement boasts a flying tourbillon, a “flying” gear train and power reserve indicator, as well as a “floating” barrel. At the same time, the construction is inverted, with parts that are usually hidden sitting exposed, and vice versa. As a result, the tourbillon and power reserve display appear to operate in isolation, with no obvious connection to the rest of the movement. Floating and flying minimalism While much of the gearing is hidden underneath the dial – which doubles up as the base plate – most of the moving parts are “floating” –...
Time+Tide
Innovation sensation: 3 of the most innovative watches of 2019
Watches are no longer the robust tools we use in everyday life. We tell the time with our phones, and watches instead have taken on a much more important role as communicating something about ourselves. In spite of this, some watch companies continue to invest heavily in a traditional form of watchmaking where innovation is … ContinuedThe post Innovation sensation: 3 of the most innovative watches of 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic Blasted Gold
About as much gold as one can fit under the radar, or indeed, under any shirt cuff.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: Bape and Seiko have done it again with their latest collaboration
Continuing their creative collaborative partnership, luxury Japanese streetwear label Bape and Japanese watchmaker Seiko have just unveiled their latest limited edition creation … and we like it. Water resistant to 200 metres, this matt black marvel is, much like their first joint effort, sporting Bape’s quintessential “ABC” camouflage, which has been masterfully applied to the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Bape and Seiko have done it again with their latest collaboration appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Weekend watch spotting with JR: #3
This weekend, I wore my DOXA SUB 200 130th Anniversary and went out in search of what other like-minded individuals had decided to attach to their wrist, and this is what I found out in the wild: Kosta’s Grand Seiko 9F quartz GMT SBGN005 Kosta’s passion for timepieces is still very much in its infancy … ContinuedThe post Weekend watch spotting with JR: #3 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
WatchAdvice
Breitling Superocean Automatic 42 Review
Breitling as a brand is famously known for its aviation timepieces, with the likes of the Navitimer and Aviator models being very popular. The brand however, has so much more to offer. With watches to suit sport professionals and adventurers, to the more elegant and urban watches such as the Premier collection, Breitling has a wide variety of timepieces to suit everyone. Breitling has a rich history in the diving sector as well thanks to their SuperOcean and SuperOcean Heritage collections. These two diving collections are different from each other as the Heritage has a more chronograph and sporty appearance, whereas the SuperOcean has a more clean and simple look. Two different styles of diving watches to suit two different audiences. What we have on our hands today is a piece from Breitling’s 2019 Baselworld SuperOcean collection release; the SuperOcean 42mm Automatic. When the Breitling SuperOcean was first released in 1957, it was released to make it clear that there was a new player in the diver’s watch market. Since its first release over 60 years ago, the Breitling SuperOcean collection has stayed true to the quality, pure Breitling style and exceptional performance. The 2019 update brings a new facelift with two dial colour choices (black and blue), while keeping the internal mechanics that the SuperOcean is known for the same. The 2019 update for the Breitling SuperOcean was a much needed fresh look for the collection. Since Goerges Kern took over, most ...
Quill & Pad
Visiting The De Bethune Manufacture In The Swiss Mountains (Video): Is It A Spaceship?
De Bethune is one of the most avant-garde watch brands on the planet. Knowing that, did you ever wonder what its factory looks like? Is it much different from other watch factories? What do this brand’s technicians do differently than others? How do they get the watches to look like that? And the most burning question: does the factory look like a spaceship? These questions and more get answered here.
Time+Tide
Coming off third best: 4 great bronze watches from 2019
One of the most polarising materials to make a return to prominence in watchmaking over the last couple of years has been bronze. Why does this ancient material cause so much conjecture when it’s used as a timepiece’s case material? Well, for a start, it can’t come into direct contact with your skin for prolonged … ContinuedThe post Coming off third best: 4 great bronze watches from 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
A guide to microbrand watches with big-box quality under $6000
How to define microbrand watches is a conversation topic that has worn out many watch journalists’ tongues. With proposed criteria ranging from price to retail model and everything in between, there isn’t much consistency in how this new phenomenon is received or perceived. Perhaps one thing that can unite the explosion of newcomers that the … ContinuedThe post A guide to microbrand watches with big-box quality under $6000 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
6 of the best fashion watch brands that are serious watchmakers
For lovers of Haute Horlogerie, the term “fashion watch” is often akin to a cuss word. But one doesn’t have to dig very far into the history of fine watchmaking to realise just how much we have to thank fashion labels for, and how the best fashion watch brands are serious watchmakers. In the 1980s, … ContinuedThe post 6 of the best fashion watch brands that are serious watchmakers appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Montblanc High Artistry Homage To Emperor Kangxi: Honoring Chinese History
While the regular Montblanc collection already proves that it is one of the best in this field, the High Artistry pens make the case that there is much, much more to this maker. Please enjoy the outstanding High Artistry Homage To Emperor Kangxi comprising three bejeweled unique pieces and two limited editions.