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The Aquastar Benthos Returns As The Heritage One Limited Edition Two Broke Watch Snobs
Dec 1, 2023

The Aquastar Benthos Returns As The Heritage One Limited Edition

With more than a few releases under their belt since the brand's formal re-launch in 2020, Aquastar has had our attention for a while now. They currently offer a mix of faithful re-editions as well as new models inspired by previous designs. But so far, dive watch nerds have been curious about another Aquastar diver lurking deep within the shadows of dive watch history.

LAST CHANCE WITH CYBER MONDAY DEALS Worn & Wound
Nov 27, 2023

LAST CHANCE WITH CYBER MONDAY DEALS

It’s the final day of our huge Black Friday sales week which means we’ve arrived at Cyber Monday. With multiple watch, accessories and EDC deals, many of you may be wondering, how could we possibly top what we’ve done so far. Well, here are three ways this CYBER Monday takes the cake. It’s the final day of our huge Black Friday sales week which means we’ve arrived at Cyber Monday. With multiple watch, accessories and EDC deals, many of you may be wondering, how could we possibly top what we’ve done so far. Well, here are three ways this CYBER Monday takes the cake. The post LAST CHANCE WITH CYBER MONDAY DEALS appeared first on Worn & Wound.

[Hands-On] Ming Brings Lightweight and Big Textures to Dubai Watch Week Worn & Wound
Ming Nov 24, 2023

[Hands-On] Ming Brings Lightweight and Big Textures to Dubai Watch Week

Ming has had a deep presence at this year’s edition of Dubai Watch Week, not just with their latest and greatest on display, but with Ming himself offering insights to his process, including creation of the ultra-lightweight LW.01, in the form of a speech given at the beginning of the show. He even found time to challenge Rexhep Rexhepi to a game of foosball in the halls of the show. At the booth, a selection of new Ming releases drew a consistent crowd throughout the week of the show, and we took the opportunity to get a hands-on look at a few of our favorites, including one of the best releases around the fair in Dubai: the 37.08 Sand.  If there’s one thing that Ming has excelled at in recent years it is the delicate interplay between forms and textures, and how they can be harnessed to create a unique dial and case experience. Their skill here was on full display this year in Dubai with two watches in particular, the 37.08 Sand, and the 37.04 Rose Gold. In addition, Ming released a 29.01 Dubai worldtimer for Arabic speaking collectors. A trend we saw realized across many of the exhibiting brands at the fair. Both the 37.08 Sand and 37.04 Rose Gold feature extraordinary dial work, though in very different ways. Beginning with the 37.08 Sand, which Ming says is the first in a series of watches that will showcase deep-relief textured dials, the initial offering does not disappoint in this department. The dial depicts a somewhat ambiguous wave pattern that could be int...

The Logic and Lavishness of the Patek Philippe Aquanaut “Rainbow” Minute Repeater Ref. 5260 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Aquanaut “Rainbow” Minute Repeater Nov 15, 2023

The Logic and Lavishness of the Patek Philippe Aquanaut “Rainbow” Minute Repeater Ref. 5260

Unveiled barely a week after the reasonably traditional Minute Repeater Alarm ref. 1938P, the Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” Minute Repeater ref. 5260 is unexpected, over the top, and entirely logical. It’s available in two variants, the simpler ref. 5260/355R-001 on a strap and the no-expense-spared ref. 5260/1455R-001 that’s set with gemstones on practically every surface, even the hour and minute hands. Now the most expensive ladies’ watch in the Patek Philippe catalogue – the ref. 5260/1455R-001 on bracelet costs CHF2.5 million with taxes – the ref. 5260 is a first in several ways. It’s the first Patek Philippe sports model with a minute repeater, and also the first ladies’ sports model with a “grand” complication. In fact, the ref. 5260 is the most complicated sports model of any kind, with the next-most-complicated being the Nautilus Perpetual Calendar ref. 5740. The ref. 5260/1455R-001 Initial thoughts I can certainly comprehend the appeal of the ref. 5260, even though it’s evidently not a watch catered to me. As far as crazily over-the-top ladies watches with impressive sertissage and impeccable horological credentials go, it doesn’t get any better than this. Mechanically the ref. 5260 is identical to Patek Philippe’s revered minute repeating models since it is powered by the R 27, the longstanding self-winding movement found in the current ref. 5178 and all the way back to the ref. 3979. In acoustic and watchmaking terms, the Aquanaut repeater...

New To The Windup Watch Shop – Nivada Grenchen Worn & Wound
Nivada Grenchen Nov 2, 2023

New To The Windup Watch Shop – Nivada Grenchen

At times the vintage watch world can seem like the Wild West: rife with danger and opportunity at the same time. Many who have gone deep down the rabbit hole may have discovered incredibly interesting watches at good value in mid-century watchmaking stalwart Nivada Grenchen. Established in 1926, the Swiss-based brand made a name for itself by building robust timepieces and was one of the first to mass-produce automatically winding watches. Nivada Grenchen, like many others, struggled through the Quartz Crisis but was relaunched in 2018 with the help of entrepreneurs Guillame Laidet and Remi Chabrat. It has emerged from the gates with a core lineup composed of some of its most beloved watches from the 20th century, and from a vintage enthusiast’s vantage point, few brands are doing it like Nivada Grenchen. Every model and configuration oozes old-school cool and has been thoughtfully reinterpreted for today. The Windup Watch Shop is proud to welcome Nivada Grenchen and offer two of its most famous models: The OG Antarctic and the inimitable Chronomaster. At times the vintage watch world can seem like the Wild West: rife with danger and opportunity at the same time. Many who have gone deep down the rabbit hole may have discovered incredibly interesting watches at good value in mid-century watchmaking stalwart Nivada Grenchen. Established in 1926, the Swiss-based brand made a name for itself by building robust timepieces and was one of the first to mass-produce automatically...

Breguet Navigates Tradition and Ambition with the Marine Tourbillon 5577 SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Nov 2, 2023

Breguet Navigates Tradition and Ambition with the Marine Tourbillon 5577

In the realm of haute horlogerie, few names hold the same level of esteem and reverence as Breguet. The newly unveiled Breguet Marine Tourbillon 5577 is no doubt intended as a tribute to the brand’s visionary founder, Abraham-Louis Breguet, by drawing inspiration from his deep ties to maritime navigation, astronomy, and the spirit of innovation.  Initial thoughts By introducing a tourbillon for the first time in the Marine collection, Breguet aims to leverage the prestige of the complication to enhance its sport watch offering. Like many other Breguet complications, the Marine tourbillon possesses a high level of quality, particularly in the sophisticated and impressively constructed movement that’s just 3 mm high, making its one of the thinnest tourbillon calibres on the market. The thinness gives the watch elegant proportions, despite the relatively wide case that’s 42.5 mm, as it stands well under 10 mm high. Besides its height, the cal. 581 is notable for having a decoration unique to this watch. The Geneva stripes are modified to feature engraved channels separating the stripes, creating the impression of a sailboat’s decking. However, the devoted Breguet purist might see the addition of a tourbillon to the Marine as a departure from tradition, likely driven by the ambition to compete with comparable sports watches like the Vacheron Constantin Overseas and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak.  Abraham-Louis Breguet never incorporated a tourbillon into a marine chronom...

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Meg Tocci Worn & Wound
Oct 27, 2023

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Meg Tocci

Editor’s note: In this 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, reader Meg Tocci (@minutemeg on Instagram) brings us a well balanced collection hitting on a variety of enthusiast favorites – and all with blue dials, a constraint Meg chose to challenge herself to stick to with these picks. This collection has bronze, an integrated bracelet sports watch, and a bezel that will help you leave an appropriate tip. Between these three watches, you’ve got virtually any situation covered, even if you can’t use a slide-rule.  You can make your submission to the Three Watch Collection – Reader Edition by filling out the form right here. If your watchbox is getting a little unwieldy and you’d like to pare down, the three watch collection seems to offer a solution. It frees you from the burden of becoming a One Watch Person (who needs that pressure?) while providing reasonable constraints to shield you from the black hole of price drop alerts and the illusory refrain of “just one more.” It leaves the collector with enough space to make choices without feeling restricted by them. With countless combinations, I knew this project required a strategy. While I considered dropping significant dough on one heavy-hitter and two inexpensive options, I wanted to challenge myself to stretch those dollars as far as I could, with all three choices weighing in above the $1,000 price point. I knew I wanted to prioritize real-life applicability by picking options for both work and leisure. Whee...

The 25 Most Expensive Watches Ever Sold at Auction Teddy Baldassarre
Oct 20, 2023

The 25 Most Expensive Watches Ever Sold at Auction

How much would you pay for a watch? What if it was the only one of its kind, or a record-breaker in terms of complications, or once owned by someone famous or historically significant? And just how expensive are the most expensive watches to ever change hands in a sale? In today's red-hot watch auction market, the answers, and the sums, may surprise you. Here we run down the list of the top 25 watches in descending order of the price they fetched on the auction block, while spotlighting some of the timepieces with the most fascinating backstories and representing the most impressive technical achievements. You'll find the expected abundance of watches from Patek Philippe and Rolex (the clear leaders in the category) but also a few from other watchmakers, large and small, who've recently broken into the upper echelon. At the end, we'll spotlight the highest selling watches from a few other brands that didn't crack the top 25 but maintain a robust presence on the watch auction scene. 1. Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime Ref. 6300A-010 ($31.19 million, 2019, Christie’s) Patek Philippe unveiled the first Grandmaster Chime watch in 2014 as part of the many celebrations around the Genevan maison’s 175the anniversary. The reference that made history at the Only Watch auction in Geneva in 2019 was a unique piece, the only Grandmaster Chime ever crafted in stainless steel; the Grandmaster Chime models in Patek’s regular collection are all made in precious metals. The watch...

Horage Mission Independence – what you need to know Time+Tide
Oct 6, 2023

Horage Mission Independence – what you need to know

Have you ever dreamed of designing your own watch? I sure have, but as much of an enthusiast as I am, I do not have the tools or knowledge to do so. If I could, the best-case scenario would be the ability to create watches uninhibited and unencumbered by conglomerate politics and red tape. Full … ContinuedThe post Horage Mission Independence – what you need to know appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

anOrdain Combine Woodwork and Enamel in the Model 3 Method SJX Watches
anOrdain Oct 6, 2023

anOrdain Combine Woodwork and Enamel in the Model 3 Method

The latest release from Scottish microbrand anOrdain continues its run of interesting enamel dials. The Model 3 Method combines a stamped silver dial covered with translucent enamel to create a deep, textured finish similar to that of flinqué enamel. Created in collaboration with Method Studio, a Scottish woodworking studio, the pattern resembles a wooden block that has been artistically chiselled away.  Initial thoughts This is not the first time anOrdain has used a textured silver dial base covered in translucent enamel. We have seen it before in the Model 1 Fumé, which boasted a hand hammered finish. In the new Model 3 the indentations are far more pronounced, giving a more dramatic look.  I have been a fan of the Glasgow-based brand for a while now, and its willingness to try new things arguably shows a mindset that is lacking in the wider industry. While nothing technically new has been done here, the combination of a woodworking texture and technique, with the miniature canvas of a watch dial has given us this brilliant look that sits perfectly within the anOrdain aesthetic. While the dial is fantastic, there is one area that I could conceivably suggest an improvement from studying the imagery that we’ve been provided. And that is instead of pad printing the markers onto the dial surface, instead printing them onto the underside of the crystal which would have left the dial texture completely untouched. But that is really the only room for aesthetic improvement...

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Huy Tran Worn & Wound
Tissot Heritage 1938 Automatic COSC Sep 29, 2023

The Three Watch Collection for $5,000: Reader Edition – Huy Tran

Editor’s note: In this 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, reader Huy Tran shares a well considered trio that touches on heritage and utility while staying entirely within the practical realm.  You can make your submission to the Three Watch Collection – Reader Edition by filling out the form right here. A 3-watch-collection is a fairly common topic of the watch community, and for good reasons. It represents a somewhat minimalist solution for those who still want to enjoy the fascination of these little machines but don’t like the idea of succumbing to consumerism craze. To be honest, I’m actually one of those people and am fancying the potential of selling all my watches to start again with an empty 3-slots watchbox. So this challenge is the perfect opportunity for me to simulate an imaginary outcome and see if I like what I come up with. My three choices reflect the spirit of minimalism that I mention, they are all time-only three-handers that offered by brands from the same watch conglomerate and one of them has just been released recently and gave me the idea. Tissot Heritage 1938 Automatic COSC (Salmon Dial) – $825 When a watch comes with the word “heritage” you know you’re dealing with some vintage inspired design. In fact, this Tissot Heritage 1938 is reminiscent of the watches they produced in the 1930’s, with a classic looking case in a compact but contemporary size of 39mm. The tasteful salmon dial is matte and occupies most of the watch face with ...

How To Clean A Watch Teddy Baldassarre
Sep 28, 2023

How To Clean A Watch

When you’re starting or building upon a watch collection, keeping those watches clean is probably a matter to which you rarely give much thought on a day-to-day basis. Of course, there’s always the least time-intensive option, outsourcing your watch’s semi-regular cleaning to your local watchmaker or watch repairer when you send the timepiece in for its recommended technical maintenance. But if you’re interested in keeping your timepieces in tip-top condition between services - and especially if you have notions of perhaps selling or trading any of them for the maximum return - there are some simple steps you can take on your own, for minimal cost, that can ensure your watches are maintained at a level that’s both presentable and potentially sellable. Watches, after all, are not only luxury objects; they are also items that are worn regularly, day after day in some cases, like a pair of boots or shoes, or an overcoat. And like those items, they encounter all kinds of conditions based upon the wearer’s lifestyle, occupation, and recreational pursuits. Watches are also worn right against the skin, with all of the exposure to sweat, dirt, and unexpected atmospheric splatter that implies. Thus, regular cleaning of your watches should be considered a regular chore in the cycle of life, like doing the laundry or washing your car. The go-to shortcut of wiping the watch’s crystal with an untucked shirt tail or handkerchief - we’ve all done it - isn’t goin...

The Journey To Diving In Tudor’s New Black Pelagos FXD Worn & Wound
Tudor s New Black Pelagos Sep 21, 2023

The Journey To Diving In Tudor’s New Black Pelagos FXD

Earlier this year, in the middle of our Windup Watch Fair in Chicago, Benrus put together a dive trip in the cold waters of Lake Michigan in celebration of their Ultra-Deep dive watch. You can see my photo report from the morning expedition right here. While diving has always been on my periphery, a side effect of writing about scores of dive watches over the years, I had never truly confronted the idea of getting dive certified myself until the experience of seeing those divers, many of them friends, take their turns stepping off the boat and into the depths. So, not long after returning back to New York, I scheduled time to get my open water dive certification through NAUI instructors. The only decision left was which watch I’d use during the process.  I’ll confess, the final kick to get certified came upon learning of a dive trip that was being planned by Tudor, something off the coast of Florida in the Gulf, potentially around a new watch release (which of course ended up being the case). With that knowledge in mind, it felt appropriate to complete my training with a Tudor Pelagos FXD on one wrist, and the Apple Watch Ultra on the other. The idea of putting these things to use in such a manner was half the excitement, allowing me the opportunity to experience them as intended, and creating an additional layer of context within which I could assess them as tools. And not just the Tudor, but all of my divers.  Having access to more seasoned divers during this proce...

Apple Brings Updates to New Generation of Apple Watches Series 9, & Ultra 2 Worn & Wound
Sep 12, 2023

Apple Brings Updates to New Generation of Apple Watches Series 9, & Ultra 2

Apple held their annual September event today, introducing new iPhones and new Apple Watch models in the process. This year, Apple is leaning heavily into environmental consciousness across all of their new products, including new straps that utilize recycled materials, as we’ve seen with increasing recency in the watch world. In addition to new Series 9 watches, Apple also introduced a second generation of their Apple Watch Ultra, with the Ultra 2. Both utilize Apple’s new home cooked silicon, the S9 SiP, a more powerful chip, allowing for a slew of new on board features that are less reliant on your connectivity status, including the ability to recognize gestures. The watches retain largely the same design across the board, so the real story is the new silicon, and the 100% carbon neutral status of the product in many configurations.  The Apple Watch has established itself as the most popular watch in the world since it was first introduced 9 years ago, and while its form factor hasn’t substantially changed over the years, it’s become far more powerful with each generation, allowing it to blossom into its own product category for Apple. I suspect we’ll see the first big design update for its 10th anniversary next year, but until then the Series 9 and Ultra 2 will look to keep the trend moving forward. The Apple Watch Ultra was introduced just last year, a rugged take on the formula which won over those of us who prefer using the Apple Watch for specific scenar...

This New Citizen Promaster Altichron Can Read an Altitude Higher than the World’s Tallest Peak Worn & Wound
Citizen Promaster Altichron Can Read Sep 12, 2023

This New Citizen Promaster Altichron Can Read an Altitude Higher than the World’s Tallest Peak

Citizen has introduced a new Altichron to the Promaster family of watches. This series has always struck me as kind of gleefully over the top, even more than many of the crazy dive watches we talk about in these pages frequently. The whole idea behind the “Promaster” branding is to show Citizen’s prominence in designing watches that can take on land and air in addition to sea, but sometimes we get caught up in the dive watch aspect of it all given the importance of watches in that niche to the culture of contemporary watch collecting. The Altichron is, effectively, a souped up field watch made with mountaineering in mind, and it has a number of features that should make athletes who spend their time at higher elevations quite happy. For the rest of us, there’s still a lot of cool tech to gawk at, which is a perfectly acceptable way to enjoy a watch like this in my book.  The key feature of the Altichron is its altitude sensor, which allows for measurements up to 32,800 feet above sea level (Mt. Everest, for the record, is a little over 29,000 feet above sea level). Also, just in case you’re the multidisciplinary sort, you’ll get an accurate reading up to 300 meters below sea level as well. The altitude meter is read via an inner dial for the first 900 meters above sea level, and then via a subdial at 9:00 for higher altitudes. The Altichron is also equipped with an electronic compass that shows your heading via a gauge around the dial’s perimeter. The layout...

Hands-On: Fleux Skin Divers Balance Throwback Inspiration with Modern Vibes Worn & Wound
Sep 12, 2023

Hands-On: Fleux Skin Divers Balance Throwback Inspiration with Modern Vibes

We love seeing watches that break free of the well established genre specific design codes, offering an original perspective that doesn’t necessarily take the beaten path. When it comes to dive watch in particular, this can be a challenge, though it can indeed be done. The dive watch template is simple and straightforward, making it especially challenging to carve a unique path, which often happens in subtle ways. This is a genre with a deep and easily recognizable heritage, and many new watches and watch brands tend to lean on these a bit too heavily, creating a somewhat homogeneous landscape of divers. The watches we’re looking at today from Fleux, are no exception, however they do bring something unique to the table at the same time.  The watches are the FLX001 and FLX002, a pair of skin divers that offer a perfectly comfortable design at a glance, sitting well within that dive watch archetype mold. There is clear old-school inspiration at work, but there’s a modern sheen applied that manages to find a pleasant balance between the inspiration, and the forward looking intent. These watches manage this in a manner that can be tricky to put a finger on, meaning it feels relatively organic in the process, and somewhat retro-futuristic as a side effect. A fact first tipped off by the brand’s motto: “vintage inspired; continually new”. $450 Hands-On: Fleux Skin Divers Balance Throwback Inspiration with Modern Vibes Case Stainless Steel Movement SII SH38A Automati...

We Finally Got Our Hands on the Bell & Ross BR 03-94 Multimeter, and Here’s a Video to Prove It Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross BR 03-94 Multimeter Sep 4, 2023

We Finally Got Our Hands on the Bell & Ross BR 03-94 Multimeter, and Here’s a Video to Prove It

Ever see a watch and just can’t get it out of your head? Of course you have – it’s a common side effect of the hobby. Sometimes, for reasons we can’t quite wrap our arms around, a watch becomes something we fixate on. It could be uncommonly beautiful, or genuinely unique, or some combination of the two. Or it could be for an entirely different reason altogether. The point is: some watches have a way of lingering in our brains long after we’ve first seen them, and like a pop song that gets stuck in your head, sometimes you just have to give yourself over to it.  For Blake Buettner and Zach Kazan, few watches have come along in recent years that are more emblematic of this idea than the Bell & Ross BR 03-94 Multimeter. It made its debut, somewhat under the radar, during Watches & Wonders 2022, and ever since then has been an object of obsession, mystery, and genuine fascination. It’s come up on the podcast, inspired editorials, and has taken up space in our brains rent free for months.  Recently, we finally were able to see one in the metal (actually, ceramic), so of course we wanted to document the experience on video. This strange watch, with a dial featuring a total of five timing scales in a layout that seems designed to intentionally make you think about “closing the rings” is without a doubt one of the weirdest new watches we’ve seen from a major brand in recent years. Is it a pilot’s watch? A doctor’s watch? A very manual health and fitness tra...