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Zenith Chronomaster Sport Review: The Modern El Primero Teddy Baldassarre
Zenith Oct 15, 2025

Zenith Chronomaster Sport Review: The Modern El Primero

The Zenith Chronomaster Sport debuted back in 2021 and has evolved into one of the brand’s most compelling contemporary chronographs (and that’s saying a lot for Zenith). There was a lot of initial chatter about some similarities to the Rolex Daytona because the collection debuted with a panda and reverse panda dial model with ceramic bezel and, while the comparisons are certainly valid, it does warrant a reminder that the Daytona indeed used to be El Primero-powered. Earlier in 2025, Zenith went all out on the blue theme at this year’s Watches & Wonders in celebration of its 160th anniversary. The star of the show may have been the return of the Caliber 135 in the G.F.J. (see more on that one right here), but the supporting releases didn’t hold back either, boasting bright blue ceramic cases and bracelets. Together, this trio of watches comprise the Zenith 160th anniversary collection, touching on each of the cornerstones of the brand’s modern architecture. The watch I am going to focus on here is the Zenith Chronomaster Sport rendered nearly in its entirety in blue ceramic, showcasing a very different side of the brand’s most popular modern chronograph. Zenith Chronomaster Sport Context The Chronomaster collection has been around since 1994, building on the rather illustrious history of precision timing (outlined in more detail right here) that Zenith is known for. In 2021, Zenith found its modern stride with the release of the Chronomaster Sport with a blac...

SJX Podcast: Quest of Time SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin just unveiled Oct 1, 2025

SJX Podcast: Quest of Time

On episode 11 of the SJX Podcast, SJX and Brandon Moore discuss the monumental La Quête Du Temps astronomical clock that Vacheron Constantin just unveiled in Paris alongside the companion Quest of Time wristwatch. We also tackle Tudor’s first moon phase complication and what it means for the brand’s collection of dress watches. SJX also shares his views on the news that Rolex chief executive Jean-Frédéric Dufour will be giving the keynote at Dubai Watch Week, a move that’s largely unprecedented for the industry’s most impenetrable brand. We also chat about the other big news in the world of watch fairs, Audemars Piguet’s return to Watches & Wonders in 2026. Last but not least, we discuss what Girard-Perregaux’s new movement platform might reveal about the future of the brand. Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and Youtube.  

Is The Tudor Black Bay 54 “Lagoon Blue” A Perfect Summer Watch? Fratello
Tudor Black Bay 54 “Lagoon Sep 8, 2025

Is The Tudor Black Bay 54 “Lagoon Blue” A Perfect Summer Watch?

When Tudor released a new “Lagoon Blue” take on the Black Bay 54, I knew I had to get my hands on it. You see, Tudor is a brand I keep coming back to. Unlike Rolex, which pursues constant iterative improvement above all else, Tudor seems to get more leeway to experiment and play with […] Visit Is The Tudor Black Bay 54 “Lagoon Blue” A Perfect Summer Watch? to read the full article.

What is a Chronograph Watch? Teddy Baldassarre
Sep 3, 2025

What is a Chronograph Watch?

Chronograph watches are among the most popular styles of timepieces: iconic models like the Rolex Daytona, Omega Speedmaster, TAG Heuer Carrera, and Breitling Navitimer, for example, have become some of the most famous and collectible watches in the modern era and have contributed to the enduring appeal of the chronograph to generations of enthusiasts. If you're new to the watch game, however, you might be wondering not only what all the buzz is about but what these watches actually do that makes them so special. Read on for a comprehensive primer on chronograph watches, from their earliest ancestors to the most ambitious, avant-garde timekeeping technology available in chronographs today. Chronograph vs. Chronometer As I explore in depth in our guide to chronometers, one of the first hurdles to clear for newcomers to watch appreciation is the clarification of two very common horological categories: Chronometer and Chronograph. Quite simply, a chronometer (from the Greek chronos, meaning time, and meter, meaning measure) is any watch or clock that keeps reliably accurate time, usually as determined by an outside independent testing agency, whereas a chronograph (from chronos and graph, i.e., to “write time”) is any watch or clock with the ability to track and record intervals of time, aka a stopwatch. The terms are not interchangeable but they are also not mutually exclusive: a watch equipped with chronograph functions can also be a chronometer if it has met a s...

Interview: Dr. Woo on the Unexpected Parallels Between Watchmaking and Tattooing, and His Latest for Roger Dubuis Worn & Wound
Roger Dubuis As you well know Jul 31, 2025

Interview: Dr. Woo on the Unexpected Parallels Between Watchmaking and Tattooing, and His Latest for Roger Dubuis

As you well know, we here at Worn & Wound are big fans of collaborative watches – we’ve had the pleasure of doing quite a few of our own over the years. Watch collaborations are nothing new, but they haven’t always been as trendy or prevalent as they are today. Sure, adjacent industries like sport, diving, and racing have long found ways to co-create. Rolex and the German luxury car manufacturer Mercedes-Benz marks one of the earliest examples of such a partnership tracing back to the 1920s. Still, it wouldn’t be until the later part of the 20th century that co-branded watches would really rise in popularity and become as commonplace as they are now.  In the current market, mashups have gone far beyond the usual suspects. Watch brands have been getting creative and tapping anyone and everyone from DJ Steve Aoki to Cohiba cigars and Japanese architect Tadao Ando. Today, we’re going to dig deeper into one such collab that has taken us by surprise, one between Roger Dubuis and the renowned tattoo artist Dr. Woo.  For the uninitiated, Brian Woo, better known as Dr. Woo, is a Taiwanese American tattoo artist based in Los Angeles. He’s known for his intricate, single-needle black and gray tattoos marked by ultra-fine lines and minimalist designs that mimic drawn sketches. Over the years, he’s developed a cult following among celebrities like Emilia Clarke, Drake, Miley Cyrus, and Zoe Kravitz, resulting in a long waitlist to get a seat in his chair.   View this p...

Tudor Black Bay Chrono Review Teddy Baldassarre
Tudor Jul 23, 2025

Tudor Black Bay Chrono Review

The Tudor Black Bay Chrono hit the market, somewhat unexpectedly, in 2017, boldly elevating the already red-hot Black Bay collection into a new tier of horological prestige and marking the debut of a collaboration (again, rather unexpected) between Rolex-owned Tudor and its Swiss sport-watch competitor Breitling. Nearly a decade later, the model still represents the highest level of complication in Tudor’s 21st-Century lineup, and yet this Tudor chronograph also remains very manageable, as a subfamily, in terms of material, size, and colorway options - an area in which the larger Black Bay collection, some might argue, has gone a bit far in the opposite direction, now encompassing three distinctive iterations: original Black Bay, Black Bay 58, and Black Bay 54 (which we reviewed here), all touting different sizing and multiple colorways and materials. And this doesn’t even include the other “complicated” extension of the line, the Black Bay GMT, which recently debuted in the “58” sizing and which seems to unveil a new bicolor bezel or dial color every year since its 2018 debut. Originally called the Heritage Black Bay - as it was clearly an homage to vintage dive watches from Tudor’s watchmaking history, which began in 1946 - the OG Black Bay model traces its aesthetic roots to the Oyster Prince Submariner, released in 1954, one year after big brother Rolex rolled out its own much more famous Submariner watch. This original version, Ref. 7922, used the ...

Fratello Summer Watch Picks 2025: Daan’s Choices From Longines, Girard-Perregaux, And Ressence Fratello
Girard-Perregaux Jul 10, 2025

Fratello Summer Watch Picks 2025: Daan’s Choices From Longines, Girard-Perregaux, And Ressence

The Sun is shining, temperatures are rising, and my kids are finishing their classes. At last, our summer vacation is just around the corner. It’s time to go through the watch box and pick my watches for a road trip through France and Spain. I’ll probably end up with the Rolex Explorer 114270 as my […] Visit Fratello Summer Watch Picks 2025: Daan’s Choices From Longines, Girard-Perregaux, And Ressence to read the full article.

How Ulysse Nardin’s Freak-Mentality Has Taught the Industry to Keep Watchmaking Forward-Thinking and Fun Worn & Wound
Jaeger-LeCoultre just Jun 25, 2025

How Ulysse Nardin’s Freak-Mentality Has Taught the Industry to Keep Watchmaking Forward-Thinking and Fun

When Ulysse Nardin unveiled the Freak in 2001, it set off a chain of events that forever changed the course of history for the brand and for the industry at large. The model seamlessly flexed a combination of technical and design achievements. The Freak offered material innovation that was far ahead of its time, introducing the use of silicon in the escapement wheels-a technology that is now used by almost every major watch brand from Rolex to Patek Philippe, Girard-Perregaux, Breitling, and Jaeger-LeCoultre, just to name a few. It also presented an entirely new set of aesthetic codes for watch design with an expression of time that notably lacked a traditional dial, hands, or crown. With the Freak’s overall success, it immediately established the brand as a thought leader, an innovator, and (perhaps most importantly) a rebel in an industry often paralyzed by its reverence and steadfast commitment to tradition.  In the nearly 25-years since the first Freak, we have seen Ulysse Nardin infuse this spirit in each subsequent Freak model and its catalog at large-from the Blast collection to its UFO clocks and, most recently, in its record breaking Diver [Air], the world’s lightest mechanical dive watch.  The first Freak We all know record setting has become a bit of a thing in watchmaking. Particularly in the past decade or so, we have witnessed brands embark on the race to claim the next world record title. Since 2014, Bulgari has set a whopping ten for the ultra-thi...

Watches & Wonders Announces 2026 Dates SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Jun 17, 2025

Watches & Wonders Announces 2026 Dates

Anchored by brands like Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Cartier, Watches & Wonders (W&W;) is the world’s biggest luxury watch fair  and it will take place at its traditional time of early spring, April 14-20, 2026, once again at Palexpo. As is now convention, the final three days, April 18-20, will be open to the public, who can access the fair by buying a ticket. The first four days will only be open to invited guests, namely members of the trade, primarily brand executives, retailers, media, as well as select clients. W&W; will also stage events outside Palexpo, the convention centre near the airport, with several events planned in downtown Geneva. In past years, these have included exhibitions, talks, and social gatherings. The exhibitors for 2026 have yet to be announced, but the establishment brands are a certainty, including the brands owned by Richemont like A. Lange & Söhne and Vacheron Constantin, and the LVMH marques like TAG Heuer and Hublot. There has been talk of brands joining (or returning to) the list of exhibitors – Bulgari was a newcomer in 2025 – but this will soon be known once W&W; publishes the exhibitors directory.  

Introducing: The Tudor Black Bay 54 “Lagoon Blue” Fratello
Tudor Black Bay 54 “Lagoon Jun 13, 2025

Introducing: The Tudor Black Bay 54 “Lagoon Blue”

Tudor’s Black Bay line has become the foundational building block for the modern brand. The Black Bay 54 “Lagoon Blue” brings the summer vibes in the form of a 37mm dive watch. Let’s take a look. Tudor was once a more affordable entry point into the Rolex stable, sharing many parts, including cases, crowns, and […] Visit Introducing: The Tudor Black Bay 54 “Lagoon Blue” to read the full article.

The 45 Best Pilot Watches For Every Budget In 2026 Teddy Baldassarre
Jun 7, 2025

The 45 Best Pilot Watches For Every Budget In 2026

Some of the most interesting and coveted watches on the market were designed as tools for professionals in fields that are more exciting than those of the average nine-to-fiver. Divers, race car drivers, and pilots have spurred on many of the most popular tool watch designs on the market today. Take, for example, the Rolex Submariner, designed for divers, the TAG Heuer Monaco, used for auto racing both onscreen and off by Steve McQueen, and the Breitling Navitimer, an aviation icon for decades. More than just jewelry, the timekeepers worn by these professionals, plying trades in which seconds count, were depended upon in some cases to save their lives. Pilots had to rely on their watches for critical information like calculating the distance traveled and the amount of fuel left. However, thanks in large part to digital tech, much has changed, and many great pilot’s watches are now used as heritage-infused time tellers in less austere circumstances, though the watches themselves are still more than capable. But, before we get too far ahead, what do we mean when we talk about pilot’s watches? Today, there’s an entire genre of watches dedicated to aviation. Some are homages to vintage designs, while others are modern variations on those earliest pilot’s watches. Some pilot watches are still tools, and act as backups to onboard instrumentation for professional pilots, while others are simply accessories for frequent fliers. In either case, the pilot watch genre ...

The Evergreens – The History of The Citizen Aqualand, The Diving Icon Celebrating 40 Years Monochrome
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms State Jun 3, 2025

The Evergreens – The History of The Citizen Aqualand, The Diving Icon Celebrating 40 Years

Traditional dive watches have never waned in popularity, despite modern diving computers and even smart watches pushing them into technical obsolescence. The dawn of early divers in the 1950s is defined by two brands and two watches – the Rolex Submariner and the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. State of the art at the time and able […]

Dubai Watch Week Returns in November 2025 SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Van Cleef & Arpels May 15, 2025

Dubai Watch Week Returns in November 2025

Now a decade old and an established event in the annual horological calendar, Dubai Watch Week (DWW) will take place November 19-23, 2025. Most notably, DWW will move to a new venue, a 200,000 sq ft space next to Dubai Mall, departing its longtime home of the Dubai International Financial Centre (DIFC). The 2025 event will host over 90 brands, ranging from giants like Rolex to micro-brands such as Studio Underd0g. The biggest names will have standalone spaces, including Rolex and Tudor, Audemars Piguet, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Chanel. DWW traditionally took place at DIFC, pictured above But independents will still have a prominent role in the event, since DWW got its start as an indie-centric event. The 2025 edition will give independent brands room to breathe with a dedicated space. Exhiitors include leading independents like Rexhep Rexhepi, Voutilainen, and Roger W. Smith. DWW takes place from November 19-23, 2025 in Burj Park, the landscaped area surrounding the Burj Khalifa and adjacent to Dubai Mall. Entry is free but registration is required. For more, visit Dubaiwatchweek.com.  

Omega Railmaster Review Teddy Baldassarre
Omega May 15, 2025

Omega Railmaster Review

The Omega Railmaster can best be put into historical context as of one of the most recognizable names in its category that arguably gets the least amount of attention. It hasn’t been a mainstay for the brand, and currently sits in purgatory, with no modern Railmaster existing in the contemporary Omega collection. It’s a black sheep with serious historical credentials that should have been a perennial adversary to the Rolex Explorer, and yet it became instead something of an enthusiast darling, a relic of esoterica. I would argue that it just missed its initial window to hit immortality, courtesy of little more than bad timing. It was, and remains, one of the coolest designs from a brand that really could rest on its laurels behind the Speedmaster and Seamaster. And with those two models mentioned, let’s properly understand the what, where, how, and why of the Omega Railmaster. Okay, and also the when. In 1957, Omega basically released the only three watches any brand would ever have to release to prove everlasting viability. Well, in theory, two of those brands seem to have done the trick – the Railmaster was just icing on the cake. Think of it like when Rolex unveiled the Submariner and the Explorer in the very same year, followed closely by the GMT-Master. Those three watches have experienced continuous production since that time and represent the core ethos of Rolex today. Similarly, in ‘57, we saw Omega unveil a trilogy of watches: The Seamaster, the Speedmas...

This is the Company Quietly Making the Rubber Straps for Nearly Every Brand in the Industry Worn & Wound
Blancpain May 8, 2025

This is the Company Quietly Making the Rubber Straps for Nearly Every Brand in the Industry

Rubber straps are relatively new in the centuries-old history of wristwatches, and their widespread popularity is even more recent. Like many elements of watchmaking, rubber straps first came into use for a specific utilitarian purpose, and now-in a world that no longer needs watches as practical tools-rubber straps no longer need to be purely functional. They can simply be a fashion statement.  The first rubber straps appeared in the 1960s throughout the catalogs of brands like Rolex, Tudor, IWC, and Blancpain. Fittingly, these rubber straps were perfect for sport models like dive watches thanks to their lightweight build, durability, and resistance to the elements. Still, it would be another three decades before the rubber strap would transform from an occasional companion for a tool watch to a prominent bracelet material seen across styles and brands at all price points.  Hublot was at the forefront of shifting the perception and prevalence of the rubber strap. In 1980, the brand debuted the material in its catalog in a surprising way. The Classic Original (later revived as the Classic Fusion) featured Hublot’s signature porthole shaped case rendered in polished and brushed gold, complete with a black rubber strap, perfectly complementing the model’s black dial. The watch was not only the brand’s first to showcase a rubber strap but also the first luxury wristwatch ever to combine a rubber strap with a precious metal case as opposed to stainless steel. The d...

Tudor GMT: The Definitive Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Tudor May 7, 2025

Tudor GMT: The Definitive Guide

Before getting into the Tudor GMT guide, let's put the brand in context as it has experienced a modern renaissance since returning to the U.S. market with the Black Bay collection in 2012. No longer content as a mere sub-brand of big brother Rolex, Tudor has established itself as the de facto tool-watch manufacture in the $3,000 - $6,000 range, and the brand has done it through methodical progress within the Black Bay, Ranger, and Pelagos families. In 2016, Tudor introduced its first in-house caliber in the North Flag, and has since established its own movements throughout the portfolio, allowing Tudor to approach complications in its own way. Arguably, the most important of these complications is the GMT, which made its modern debut with the Black Bay GMT in 2018. But that’s not the first GMT from the brand.  In this guide, we’ll take a look back at what may be some forgotten GMT references from Tudor, and make our way through the now expansive modern stable of watches boasting the reference today. A GMT is likely the most most requested feature when it comes to new Tudor watches, and lately, the brand has been particularly in tune with those demands - to the point where it’s safe to say that we’re spoiled for choice these days. That’s not to say that there aren’t a few expressions of this complication that we’d still like to see, and I’ll outline some of those in closing.  The GMT complication is a foundational part of the Rolex identity, with Tudor'...

Sunday Morning Showdown: Nomos Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer Vs. Frederique Constant Highlife Worldtimer Fratello
Frederique Constant Highlife Worldtimer It’s Sunday May 4, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Nomos Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer Vs. Frederique Constant Highlife Worldtimer

It’s Sunday morning again, so it’s time for another installment of our famous Showdown. Last week, we featured two rather expensive and hard-to-get watches - the new Rolex Land-Dweller and the new 40mm Patek Philippe Cubitus. That’s why we’re going for something a little more affordable and readily available this week. Both Nomos and Frederique […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Nomos Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer Vs. Frederique Constant Highlife Worldtimer to read the full article.

Hands On: Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 6196P-001 SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Apr 21, 2025

Hands On: Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 6196P-001

Patek Philippe came to Watches & Wonders 2025 with a deep bench of strong new releases, but for fans of the classic Calatrava, the standout was without question the Calatrava Ref. 6196P-001. It’s an easy watch to love, with good proportions, a hefty 38 mm platinum case, a lively “salmon” dial, and is powered by the brand’s latest generation movement. Though the brand was arguably overshadowed this year by its suburban Geneva neighbors Rolex and Vacheron Constantin, at lower and higher ends of the price spectrum, respectively, Patek Philippe demonstrated its ability to deliver in every category, from simple dress and sport watches to mid and high complications. Initial thoughts In February 2017 I was asked what I wished to see from Baselworld that year. I said I’d like to see a successor to the ref. 5196 with a case-filling movement and a large balance. Eight years later, Patek Philippe delivered more or less exactly what I imagined, keeping the proportions and details of the classic Calatrava with a more advanced movement than the outdated cal. 215 that was used at the time. So in a sense, this watch was made for me.  But I had not anticipated a “salmon” dial. Officially labelled “rose-gilt opaline” by Patek Philippe, such dials have become popular among collectors, and are now a staple across the Patek Philippe collection. Naturally, a vivid colour like this helps an otherwise simple watch stand out, but personally I look forward to more toned down iter...

Bell & Ross Celebrates the 20th Anniversary of the BR-03 with New Skeleton Models Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross Celebrates Apr 15, 2025

Bell & Ross Celebrates the 20th Anniversary of the BR-03 with New Skeleton Models

It’s a common refrain here at Worn & Wound: every year is an anniversary. Like death, taxes, and Photoshop renders of what collectors predict the new Rolex will look like, the celebration of anniversaries in the watch industry is a certainty. We’re not complaining. An anniversary of an important watch or collection is a great time to take stock, and there have certainly been plenty of desirable releases over the years centered around big anniversaries. This year, Bell & Ross is celebrating 20 years of the BR-03 collection, their iconic square watch that has become the “face” of the brand over the past two decades.  The celebration begins with the new BR-03 Skeleton, a collection of three watches that capitalizes on a big trend across all sectors of watchmaking while removing the BR-03 from its aviation themed roots, at least a little bit. Bell & Ross has been making skeletonized watches for years (often as part of their Skull series), and these watches highlight their proficiency in that area, and also take advantage of their creativity with lume.  The new BR-03 Skeleton is available in three variants: Black Ceramic, Grey Steel, and Lum Ceramic. All three feature 41mm cases and a new movement, the BR-CAL.328, designed specifically for these watches. While the specs of the caliber are in line with previous time only movements used in recent BR-03 releases (like those, it has a 54 hour power reserve) its architecture has been adjusted, highlighting an “X” motif...