Hodinkee
Hands-On: Panerai's Submersible Elux Lab-ID Takes 'Luminous' Seriously – In A Seriously Unusual Way (Live Pics)
With ideas drawn from deep in Panerai's history, the new Elux Lab-ID does something few other watches have ever done.
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Hodinkee
Monochrome
Hands-on – The Exceptional Duo of Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Frosted Gold Selfwinding 34mm with Crystal Sand Dials
Audemars Piguet introduced the Royal Oak Selfwinding 34mm in 2020 as the smallest-sized option with mechanical movement. Since its debut, AP has expanded the range with several variations, ranging from simple stainless steel to diamond-covered pink gold versions. For 2024, Audemars Piguet added two new models to the Royal Oak Frosted Gold Selfwinding 34mm series-one […]
Monochrome
Hands-on – The Appealing looks of the TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Skeleton Dark Blue
Changes to the appearance are often a more frequent feature of the TAG Heuer Monaco series than groundbreaking innovation in its mechanics. And over the years the brand almost always successfully implemented the use of new materials and updated designs, with the recent 2023 introduction of open-worked dials to the collection preceding the launch of […]
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: the Beaufort Pulsatimer
So far 2024 is a year where brands have been belting out bombastic bangers of watches one after another. So, when a different take on a beloved complication is dropped, we naturally crane our necks to peek at what’s new. The first Swiss chronograph in New Zealand based Beaufort’s lineup highlights the old school idea of a doctor/medic’s watch with a pulsometer as the primary complication. It takes this complication and sets it inside a case and dial that are elegant, yet industrial, but some of the changes made to the chronograph functionality caused me to ask some questions. The Beaufort Pulsatimer, upon quick inspection, might look like your average chrono, but the longer you linger over its construction, the more you’ll start to notice its unique styling. The case is almost totally brushed, with the exception of thinly polished chamfered edges and a polished inner bezel ring. The polished ring steps up from a brushed base bezel ring like the watch is laying its own foundation. And rising once more from the step bezel is a significantly raised box sapphire crystal. All this architecture pulls your eye into a dial that dramatically drops from the crystal with the sloped pulsometer chapter ring. Then we find a beautiful, vertically brushed copper-colored dial that Beaufort calls “Salmon.” They also have an all black, DLC coated version, a reverse panda black and silver dial, and an all silver dial version of the Pulsatimer. The architectural nuances of the ca...
SJX Watches
Hands On: Louis Vuitton Escale Métiers d’Art “Cabinet Of Wonders”
The recent debut of the Escale Time-Only was actually the second instalment of the design’s revival. Earlier this year, Louis Vuitton presented the Escale Métiers d’Art “Cabinet Of Wonders”, also time-only but with exceptionally elaborate dials decorated in a variety of artisanal crafts – all executed in-house at La Fabrique du Temps (LFT), the brand’s Geneva manufacture. The “cabinet” is a trio of watches with dials featuring Asian motifs inspired by a collection of tsuba, or Japanese sword guards, owned by Gaston-Louis Vuitton, the grandson of Louis Vuitton. Ranging from enamelling to marquetry to hammering, the dial decoration is intricate and three-dimensional. From left: Koi’s Garden, Dragon’s Cloud, and Snake’s Jungle Initial thoughts Like the Voyager Flying Tourbillon Plique-à-Jour, the Cabinet of Wonders is a tangible realisation of LFT’s swift buildup of an in-house métiers d’art workshop that encompasses enamelling, engraving, and guilloche. The métiers d’art workshop is just one facet of Louis Vuitton’s ambitious, wide-ranging development of its watchmaking division, a project that is still a work in progress but advancing at a pace rapid enough that it will go far quickly. The dials are lavish, complex, and finely executed. Although they are each decorated with a variety of techniques, the different textures, colours, and styles complement each other perfectly. The quality of the work is comparable to that of Van Cleef & Arpe...
Monochrome
Hands-on – The Puzzling, Distinctive Kollokium Projekt 01 Variant B
The name Kollokium might not sound familiar to most of our readers. What is Kollokium…? Is it a brand? Not really. It’s a collaborative project between three friends, all fairly established names within the watch industry. Even the good people behind this venture aren’t sure what Kollokium really is. “This is where it all begins […]
Hodinkee
Hands-On: A Shoot-Out Between Two Full-Metal G-Shocks With The GMB2100AD-2A And GMWB5000D-2
In a battle between two cool, bold, and shiny G-Shocks in stainless steel, which one reigns supreme?
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Timex x The James Brand GMT
The collaborative release might be the best budget GMT I've ever handled, and I don't make that claim lightly.
Monochrome
Hands-on – Going Full Watchmaker with the DIY Watch Club Bluing & Luming Kits
To many, watches are all about creating memories and lasting experiences. I still vividly remember where, when and how I bought one of my most precious watches, the Tudor Black Bay 79220N. It’s that connection that keeps me from ever selling it. But what if you wanted something more than just a ready-made product? What […]
![[VIDEO] Hands-On: the Amida Digitrend](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2024/06/Amida_Digitrend_2.jpg)
Worn & Wound
[VIDEO] Hands-On: the Amida Digitrend
Here’s the thing about wearing the Amida Digitrend: you can’t take a traditional wrist shot with it. It’s not an insignificant point in 2024, when the watch industry effectively lives on Instagram, and the currency through which influence is thrust upon brands, collectors, and all of the other personalities who have risen to prominence in recent years is the wrist shot. We expect them when our friends pick up a new piece for their collection, and it’s the first thing we ask for when a new watch is announced with a series of renders depicting the watch in some altered state. So can a watch find success with the enthusiast crowd if it’s virtually impossible to take a traditional wrist shot? Amida deserves a lot of credit, I think, for rolling the dice and finding out in real time. Their new watch, the Digitrend, is one of the most interesting and quietly daring new watches to hit the market in the last few years. It takes a design that’s fifty years old and revives it so successfully that it forces you to wonder what’s happened to the industry in the intervening decades. How did we go from the strange and clever problem solving of the Digitrend to a nearly endless stream of Black Dialed Divers based on the same rudimentary outline? The answer to that question is far outside the scope of this review, but it’s worth reporting that we may indeed be nearing an end to the watch market being saturated with straightforward vintage inspired sports watches. This is ...
Worn & Wound
Hands-On Impressions of the New Credor Locomotive
Walking into Grand Seiko’s Madison Avenue boutique last week, I was ready for a fun evening with great company. After all, that’s what you expect anytime you go to an event hosted by Complecto. What I wasn’t expecting was the opportunity to check out the latest and greatest from Credor, the recently relaunched Locomotive, just a day after its public launch. Timed to celebrate the 50th anniversary of Credor, the revival of the Locomotive resurrects a long-dormant design from probably the most influential and well-known watch designer of the 20th century, Gerald Genta, and it more than lives up to both his name, and that of Credor. And speaking of names; when is a Seiko, not a Seiko? I admit, it’s a slightly odd question, but it bears asking. Seiko sells watches at just about every conceivable price point for every conceivable customer. But whether you’re picking up a Seiko for $79.94 on Amazon or a Kodo Constant Force Tourbillon for $350,000, every watch in the Seiko lineup will always have something in common - the word “Seiko” on the dial. It’s hard to think of another watch brand that not only sells watches at such dramatically different prices, but that doesn’t shy away from putting the same name on their entire collection. Sure, there are slight differences we learn to decode. Grand Seiko and Prospex elicit different reactions from collectors than Seiko 5 or Astron but, fundamentally, Seiko proudly declares just about every watch they make a Seiko. ...
WatchAdvice
REVIEW: Hands On With The New Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph
IN PARTNERSHIP: Almost 2 months ago at Watches & Wonders, Zenith released a chronograph version of their highly popular Defy Skyline – The Defy Skyline Chronograph and we thought let’s see how they compare to the OG. What We Love The edgy look, true to its DNA Quick change strap & bracelet system Accuracy of the 1/10th chronograph What We Don’t Clasp can irritate the wrist on the rubber Still no micro-adjust for the steel bracelet On the larger side and may not be for all wrists Overall Rating: 8.75/10 Value for money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build quality: 9/10 The Zenith Defy Skyline is no stranger to me. In fact, I’m very familiar with both the brand as well as the Defy Skyline having the Blue dial version as part of my collection. So, when I heard that Zenith were adding a chronograph version to the Skyline collection, part of me was curious as to how they’d look and wear, the other part was really looking forward to seeing them in person upon their release. And if I’m honest, part of me was interested in how they would compare to my Defy Skyline, which if you’re interested in comparing this review to my Owners’ Perspective, feel free to read it here. The Zenith Defy Skyline in blue – a good-looking piece if I say so myself! Initial Impressions Our first experience with the new Defy Skyline Chronograph was a brief one – amidst the chaos that is Watches & Wonders and at the Touch and Feel Session with the full range of Zenith’s laun...
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The VPC Type 37HW
The initial offering from a new enthusiast-driven brand looks to perfect the everyday sports watch.
SJX Watches
Hands On: Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT
For Tudor, 2024 was a year of safe bets, with the only completely new model family, the Black Bay 58 GMT, being an almost guaranteed success from the get-go. Overtly referencing sought-after vintage GMT Master models from sister brand Rolex, the BB58 GMT further solidifies Tudor’s dominant position in its category. While the big story last year was Tudor’s move out of its parents’ basement and into its own manufacture in Le Locle, this year was comparatively tame, focused on expanding the line-up of METAS-certified Black Bay models. Initial thoughts Tudor is one of the Swiss watch industry’s great success stories of the last decade. In a market in which high-end products have enjoyed the lion’s share of growth, Tudor has achieved an enviable market position by consistently improving design and quality while maintaining affordable pricing. The brand is also listening to the community, and introducing products that are likely to have built-in demand; the BB58 GMT is emblematic of this formula. Beyond its signature gilt accents and black and burgundy “Coke” bezel, the big story is of course the packaging of a true “flyer” GMT functionality in the smaller Black Bay 58 case format. The original Black Bay GMT, introduced in 2018, was beefier, at 41 mm in diameter and nearly 15 mm thick (14.6 mm to be specific). The Black Bay Pro shrunk the diameter to 39 mm, but the thickness stayed the same, resulting in a watch that felt overly thick. The New BB58 GMT address...
SJX Watches
Hands On: Patek Philippe “Extra Special” Chronometer of Henry Graves Jr.
A patrician banker who gained posthumous fame in the 21st century for his watch collection, Henry Graves Jr. (1868–1953) is most famous for having owned the Graves Supercomplication, once the most complicated watch in the world, and also the most expensive watch ever when it sold at auction ten years ago. His reputation means the watches he once owned – there were not all that many of them but all were high quality – carry cachet. One such example is coming up for sale at Phillips New York auction. It’s a Patek Philippe “Extra Special” pocket watch that is top-quality chronometer, classical in style and functional, and bearing the all-important Graves family crest on the hinged back. Now a horological symbol Not rivals but great collectors Graves’ modern-day fame as a watch collector was due in part to the ostensible rivalry between him and James Ward Packard (1863-1928), the engineer who founded the eponymous automobile company and an equally accomplished collector of great watches. Though both were active during the same decades, more or less, the famous competition between the two was a story made up in the 1990s to market the Supercomplication. Graves outlived Packard by 25 years, and the latter was quite ill when Graves was at his collecting peak. Graves bought the “Extra Special” pocket watch here in 1925, the year Ward fell ill with cancer before dying just three years later. An example of Packard’s impeccable taste: he commissioned this Patek Ph...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Hands-On Video Review: The CWC Sea Falcon Chronograph
A quick write-up and video review of the CWC Sea Falcon-a durable and affordable quartz chronograph packed with features.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: A Quick Look At Parmigiani Fleurier's New Toric Chronograph Rattrapante
The Toric line is nothing without a complication in the mix and Parmigiani brought one of their best, right out of the gate.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: Swatch Adds Six Watches To Its Neon Collection Just In Time For Summer
Grab your chronographs and Kool-aid bursts and get ready for some '90s nostalgia.
Deployant
New with Hands-on: MB&F; LM Sequential Flyback
MB&F; enhanced their innovative LM Sequential chronograph with a flyback system and an anbled hour minute dial. Presented in a platinum case.
SJX Watches
Hands On: Grand Seiko “Birch Bark” SLGW002 and SLGW003
Nature-inspired textures are a consistent motif across Grand Seiko’s portfolio, so it comes as little surprise that the brand would choose this familiar theme for the launch of its newest dress watches, the hand-wind and mechanical Evolution 9 “Birch Bark” SLGW002 and SLGW003. With a dial that features a fresh take on the texture of tree bark, the Birch Bark is also noteworthy for the movement within: the first manually-wound caliber in Grand Seiko’s 9S movement family that hitherto was entirely self-winding. The SLGW002 (left) and SLGW003 Initial thoughts There are few things I like more than a manually wound, chronometer-grade dress watch. With this bias in mind, I am predisposed to like watches like the Birch Bark. But Grand Seiko made things easy by making it attractive as well, with a new iteration of its Evolution 9 design language that is lighter in terms of visual weight. The big news is, of course, the thickness, or rather the lack thereof. The Birch Bark is 1.75 mm (15%) thinner than its automatic siblings like the SLGH003, answering’ calls for slimmer, dressier options in the Grand Seiko catalogue. The watch is also 1.4 mm (3.5%) smaller in diameter, resulting in a form factor that sits comfortably on the average wrist and will slide under most shirt cuffs. Dimensions aside, the Birch Bark in titanium feels smaller and lighter than expected due to the case material. This runs counter to expectations, since most dress watches are in precious metal....
Monochrome
Hands-on – The New Tudor Black Bay Master Chronometer is a Classic Monochrome Diver
A classic that has been in the collection for over 12 years and, without a doubt, the brand’s cornerstone model, the classic 41mm Tudor Black Bay is now in its third generation. If design-wise not much has changed at first sight, the watch you see today is, in many ways, a much more advanced instrument […]
Hodinkee
Hands-On: Ulysse Nardin's Freak S Nomad Blends Old Techniques With Iconic Design
A complex watch turns 23 years old, but it doesn't mean Ulysse Nardin doesn't have some new tricks.
WatchAdvice
REVIEW: Hands On With The Studio Underd0g Mint Ch0c Chip
In the early 2020s, everything was shut down, and the watch industry was beginning to stagnate. However, one man decided to make the most of it and designed a watch – inadvertently helping facilitate the ‘Rise of the Microbrand.’ But do we believe the hype? Let’s find out! What We Like: A non-serious yet refined design Remarkable build quality for the price point Comfortable and well-made strap with plenty of adjustment What We Don’t: Insufficient lume Crown and pushers are extremely fiddly to use Low power reserve Overall Rating: 8.5/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 10/10 Build Quality: 7/10 The 2020s post-pandemic watch industry has been coined by some to be the ‘Rise of the Microbrand.’ for those unfamiliar with the term, a microbrand is a watch brand, usually independently owned and run by a small team – Essentially a small business or a start-up, in normal terms. What the ‘Rise of the Microbrand’ indicates is the massive resurgence of interest in said start-ups, which in turn has been a contributing factor to saving modern horology as we know it. That might sound like hyperbole to you, but I don’t say it lightly – Microbrands like Christopher Ward, Baltic, Formex and Farer have grown to the point where they now challenge household names. Every day, promising young microbrands such as HZ Watches also come out of the woodwork, transforming the industry in small but significant ways. We even got the chance to look at a HZ wat...
SJX Watches
Hands On: Rolex GMT-Master II Oystersteel Ref. 126710GRNR
Just released at Watches & Wonders 2024, the Rolex GMT-Master II in steel with a grey and black bezel (ref. 126710GRNR) is the newest addition to the famous line of dual time zone watches. More restrained in terms of colour, the new GMT-Master sports a 24-hour bezel with a grey-and-black Cerachrom insert. It’s still immediately recognisable, but a bit more discreet than its siblings in the collection, especially the famous “Pepsi” that is perhaps too recognisable. Like several other Rolex sports models, the 126710GRNR sports green accents on the dial and GMT hand. And the 126710GRNR is available on either a Jubilee or Oyster bracelet. Initial thoughts The GMT-Master II is a almost perfect, with little that needs revision. While some expected a “Coke” GMT this year, the 126710GRNR is a solid proposition for anyone who wants a GMT-Master dressed more subtly. The bi-colour bezel is functional without being too loud unlike the better-known GMT-Master “Pepsi”. Flashy or recognisable watches sometimes attract unwanted attention, so dialling back the bezel colours is smart. In fact, the 126710GRNR may as well be more appealing than the discontinued 116710LN with its all-black bezel. Although I prefer the all-black bezel of the 116710LN, the grey and black bezel of the 126710GRNR is more functional as it separates day and night. The Rolex GMT-Master II “Pepsi” 126710BLRO The green accents are a nice touch and also logical since green is the Rolex corporate c...
Monochrome
Hands-on – Impressions About The White Dial Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch
“It’s just a new dial colour…” is probably the first thing you’ll assume when looking at this new watch, and you’re not a Speedmaster fan. In a way, I can’t really blame you for that, as it is exactly what we’re talking about here: there is a new white dial for the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch […]
Hodinkee
Hands-On: Parmigiani Fleurier's Toric Petite Seconde Breathes New Life Into Its Original Collection
It's not a revival of the old Toric, but it's certainly the best we've seen in years.
Deployant
Hands on with the new Depancel Série-R Tangerine Chronograph
Depancel releases the Série-R Tangerine Chronograph, a new chronograph in a square shaped case, reminiscent of some of the iconic racing watches.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Amida Digitrend Brings Back The '70s With Its Digital Driver's Watch
A jumping-hour driver from the '70s leaps back into gear.
Monochrome
Hands-on – Is the Platinum Rolex Perpetual 1908 with a Guilloché Dial Really That Good?
When it was unveiled last year, the Rolex Perpetual 1908 made quite a strong impression. I know that the brand doesn’t want to call it the successor to the Cellini line but the reality is that it is an Mk2 Cellini. The inaugural models were surprisingly appealing despite their minimalist, almost empty dials. Rolex isn’t […]
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Nodus Contrail GMT Laguna Hands-On
Just when I thought things couldn't get any better for Nodus after the TrailTrekker I reviewed this year, they go and do this. Recently, Nodus announced the latest iteration of the Contrail-one of their long-standing aviation/travel-focused pieces and a watch that I reviewed on this site a while ago. As an owner of the original Contrail, I was eager to see what they'd come up with for the latest refresh. Nodus went all out, with a new triple time-zone variant featuring the Miyota 9075 "true" GMT movement and a bunch of colors that are sure to drive enthusiasts nuts this year. It's the new Nodus Contrail GMT and we were able to go hands-on with the textured "Laguna" dial variant.