Deployant
New and Reviewed: Blancpain Ocean Commitment 4
Blancpain reaffirmed their dedication to ocean preservation with the fourth in the series of watches labelled as Blancpain Ocean Commitment.
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Deployant
Blancpain reaffirmed their dedication to ocean preservation with the fourth in the series of watches labelled as Blancpain Ocean Commitment.
Monochrome
Swiss brand Breva Genève was founded in 2010 by Vincent Dupontreué. At one point, the brand garnered quite a bit of attention on the independent watchmaking scene with a series of original but niche complications such as a barometer, an altimeter or even a retractable speedometer! For multiple reasons, the brand unfortunately disappeared for a […]
Time+Tide
With Watches and Wonders Geneva just around the corner, we predict big things from Tudor for 2025.The post Tudor 2025 predictions – why Rolex’s little sibling could end up overshadowing it this year appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
Certina is a watch brand that may be fairly new to you, especially if you live in the United States, where distribution has been limited to non-existent over the past several decades. In actuality, however, Certina is among the oldest Swiss watch brands currently in operation and today represents an appealing and perhaps underrated option in the arena of stylish sports watches that are solidly built yet priced affordably. The Kurth Brothers, Grana, and the Dirty Dozen Certina has its origins in 1888, when two Swiss brothers, Adolf and Alfred Kurth, set up a watchmaking workshop in an annex to their family home in the town of Grenchen (above). Initially, the brothers made movements and parts that they supplied to other watch companies in the region, but by 1906 they were making enough of their own complete timepieces that they introduced a brand name: Grana, which was a shortened version of the Latin word “Granatus,” referring to Grenchen. The early Grana watches found success, but for several years the Kurth brothers continued to also make and supply movements to other companies; the name “Certina” - another Latin-derived word, from “certus,” for “sure” or “certain” - began appearing on the company’s timepieces throughout the 1930s. The name, which was also easier to pronounce than “Grana” in more languages, was registered in 1933 and eventually became the company’s sole name in 1949. Few Grana watches are remembered as milestones today, i...
Monochrome
Pequignet was founded in 1973 by Emile Pequignet in Morteau, a French city in the mountains next to the Swiss border. The brand developed quickly in the 1980s and 1990s, but it has gone through its fair share of ups and downs in its 50 years of history. In the early 2000s, Pequignet initiated the […]
Worn & Wound
I recently visited the Aristo Vollmer watch and bracelet manufacturer in the Black Forest town of Pforzheim. Aristo-Vollmer was founded 14 years ago as a merger of two well-known companies from the towns of Birkenfeld and Pforzheim. After three generations in the possession of the founding Epple family, the watch manufacturer Aristo Watch was sold in 1998 to Hansjörg Vollmer, a member of the founding family of watch bracelet manufacturer Vollmer, which has been associated with Aristo since 1927. Hansjörg Vollmer is a grandson of the founder of the metal bracelet manufactory Vollmer (Vollmer, Evvo, New Line), which was founded in 1922 and had maintained business relations with Aristo since 1927. After World War II, the production of bracelets moved from Birkenfeld to Pforzheim where it is still located next to the Pforzheim train station. Since 2005, the Aristo-Vollmer’s portfolio includes watch brands (Aristo, Aristomatic, Aristocrat, Messerschmitt, Vollmer, Bellana, Aristella, and Erbprinz) as well as bracelets (stainless steel, titanium, carbon), buckles, and deployant clasps. The bracelets are used for its own watch brands, and supplied to retailers, as well as outside the group. Recently Aristo added Klaus Jakob’s Jacques Etoile brand, which we’ll come back to a little later. Hansjörg is an intriguing personality, very driven yet approachable. He is a high-speed fanatic and professionally races BMW motorcycles, and even custom builds them upon request. I att...
With watches such as the Multifort Mechanical, the Ocean Star 39, or the Decompression Timer 1961, Swatch Group-owned brand Mido seems to be on a roll regarding dial creativity. Fun, colourful, original and bold, the brand’s latest creations stand apart with the use of unusual designs and clever application of SLN to add even more […]
Fratello
Honest question: why do people like the Sky-Dweller? Is it because the travel watch with the Saros annual calendar and Ring Command is a complicated piece of watchmaking? Is it the characteristic dial layout, perhaps? Or is it because if you wear this 42mm watch in precious metal, everybody within a hundred-meter radius will know […] Visit Trying To Get Airborne With The Rolex Sky-Dweller In Yellow And Everose Gold On A Jubilee Bracelet to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Launched a few months ago, the Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon “Companion” 43 mm is Audemars Piguet’s first collaboration with Kaws, the contemporary artist best known for work inspired by Mickey Mouse and The Simpsons. While the Kaws edition is not the first AP pop culture collab, it is arguably the best. Initial thoughts I like the Royal Oak Concept Kaws, more than any of AP’s other pop culture collaborations. I like the aesthetic, feel, and execution (though not the oversized case), which put this amongst the best contemporary art crossovers in watchmaking. The Hublot-Murakami series is another outstanding artist-watchmaker collab, but the AP-Kaws watch is executed to a much higher level of quality (and price). Visually, the Kaws is big and bold, but rendered in muted, monochromatic grey – a paradoxical but complementary combination. At a distance the watch seems like yet another oversized Royal Oak, but up close it gets more interesting, starting with the fact that it has no hands in the traditional sense. The lack of hands (which are replaced with peripheral pointers) make this a little more interesting, since the cal. 2979 is a new movement that’s a variant of AP’s more conventional tourbillon calibre. I appreciate the fact that the movement was developed for this watch, both in order to accommodate the figure on the dial and to incorporate the “padded” Kaws aesthetic into the movement bridges on the back. Adding a mechanical complication to the Kaws s...
Time+Tide
American microbrand Havid Nagan's latest effort represents a high watermark for refinement in the microbrand space.The post Havid Nagan challenges traditions with the new Classic One appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
The flagship watch of Breitling’s best-known watch, the Navitimer B19 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph is now more affordable. The latest iteration with an “ice blue” dial retains the specs of the pink gold 140th anniversary edition launched last year, but trades precious metal for steel. Unlike last year’s limited edition, the new steel model is regular production and is priced under US$30,000, over Breitling’s traditional sweet spot on the price spectrum but still half the retail of the anniversary edition. Breitling Navitimer B19 Chronograph 43 Perpetual Calendar_Ref. PB1920251C1P1_RGB Initial thoughts The new Navitimer B19 keeps it affordable, relatively speaking, by combining Breitling’s excellent in-house B01 movement with the tried-and-tested Dubois Depraz perpetual calendar module. The resulting watch is thick at almost 15 mm high, but combines several complications in Breitling’s iconic slide-rule pilot’s chronograph. While the watch is pricier than most of Breitling’s offerings, it is one of the few perpetual calendar chronographs in this price range. Most of such watches tend to be a lot more expensive, although Austrian independent watchmaker Habring² offers similar for less in keeping with its focus on affordable complications. Value proposition The new B19 retains the same basic specs as its precious metal counterpart. The stainless steel case measures 43 mm in diameter and 14.94 mm in thickness. Water-resistant to 30 m, it features the Navit...
The other day, I got to sit down and take a look at the new Bulova Snorkel collection. They caught my attention for a simple reason: they are literally eye-catching. The brand’s first foray into the new world of “hybrid” ceramics, they bring an unexpected dose of color to a well-liked, if a bit cult, vintage model: the amusingly named “Devil Diver.” In the video below, I go hands-on with this new collection and give you my thoughts on this trend of not-quite-plastic watches and, of course, the Snorkels themselves. The post Video Reaction: the Bulova Snorkel Collection appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Deployant
In this article, we take a look at a series of watches from watch brands that many will consider as non-traditional watch manufacturers.
Fratello
It’s no secret that I have a huge soft spot for Christopher Ward’s C65 Dune series. I own the first-generation C65 Dune GMT, and the C65 Dune Automatic models are easily among the best affordable daily wearers. It came as a bit of a surprise that the brand decided to update the Dune lineup with […] Visit Hands-On With The New Christopher Ward C65 Dune Aeolian Automatic And GMT to read the full article.
Fratello
And before you know it, it is Sunday again! Welcome to another Sunday Morning Showdown. We hope you are comfortable, with a cup of coffee in hand and a croissant nearby. Depending on where you are, maybe you are even greeted by a soft spring sunshine. Well, say goodbye to your peaceful morning because we […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: King Seiko Vanac Vs. Toledano & Chan B/1 to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Casio celebrates International Women’s Day, Anoma releases its second-ever watch and King Seiko unveils a new flagship collection.The post New releases from Anoma, Ming, Casio G-Shock and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
The Citizen Tsuyosa lineup has always impressed us as an absolute sweet spot in the market. I struggle to think of any watch offering more for the price. The Tsuyosa collection, then, can make you think twice about anything fancier. So what if you want all of that but in a more classical, elegant size? […] Visit Hands-On With The New Citizen Tsuyosa 37mm - A Sweet Spot In The Market Is Now Also A Sweet Spot In Size to read the full article.
Fratello
When Ollech & Wajs released the C-1000 A, I knew I had to spend some time with it. This watch is an interesting one that pays homage to the brand’s groundbreaking Caribbean 1000 from 1964. Ollech & Wajs is a brand that does not enter the mainstream conversation much, which is a shame because there’s […] Visit Hands-On With The Ollech & Wajs C-1000 A to read the full article.
Monochrome
What would you expect from a proper city car? Probably the answer to that question is something practical, reliable, agile, compact on the outside and spacious on the inside, cheap to run and so. Surely, you wouldn’t think “V8!!”, now would you? Well, the madmen of Aston Martin’s Q-division did think “V8!!” back in 2018 […]
Time+Tide
Simple, solar Tissot.The post The PRC 100 Solar brings photovoltaic technology to an analogue Tissot appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
At the end of 2023, Michiel Holthinrichs showed me the first sketches of his new Ornament watches at his atelier in the center of Delft, here in the Netherlands. In May 2024, he finally felt confident enough to officially announce the watches. I hadn’t seen them in real life yet, though, so I was very […] Visit Hands-On With The Holthinrichs Signature Lab Series And The Impressive Ornament Nouveau to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Many thanks to the Hodinkee community who submitted a slew of insightful questions about the business of watches.
Finally, we have decided to do an collector's journey interview with the Chief Editor. With highlights of his watches and stories of the industry.
Fratello
Another Friday, another list! This week, we’re highlighting the best pre-Daytona Rolex chronographs. While most watch fans know of such models’ existence, it’s not something we focus on often. This is for obvious reasons. The legacy of the Daytona has become one of the industry’s greatest success stories, so that is where the focus is. […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Pre-Daytona Rolex Chronographs to read the full article.
Fratello
Are you attending the 2025 British Watchmakers’ Day in London tomorrow? If so, I guess you already have your ticket ready because the ones for club members and the general public are all sold out. I considered attending the event this year, and that was mainly because of the Gimlet, a very attractive special-edition watch […] Visit Our Favorite Special-Edition Watches At The 2025 British Watchmakers’ Day to read the full article.
Monochrome
A micro-brand that should sound familiar to you now, Kurono Tokyo is the brainchild of Japanese independent watchmaker Hajime Asaoka, known for his high-end tourbillons or chronographs. With this brand, Asaoka wanted to deliver his style and design ideas in far more accessible watches, without the highly complex movements, but with an equal taste for […]
Time+Tide
Plush sofas, VC-branded knick-knacks, and Holy Trinity watches galore.The post Vacheron Constantin officially reopens Melbourne boutique, opening up the beautiful heritage-listed space appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
I need gold. My watch collection lacks precious metal, so with that in mind, I started looking for gold watches on a budget of €5K. Please enjoy my gold choices from Audemars Piguet, IWC, and Minerva. And yes, my colleagues told me I cheated by choosing the steel-cased Minerva, but I responded that the gold […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Vintage Watches Under €5K - Lex’s Gold Picks From Audemars Piguet, IWC, And Minerva to read the full article.
SJX Watches
A mechanical watch is not always spot on; less-than-perfect timekeeping can happen, often due to an unruly oscillator. The solution is direct adjustments to the hairspring and balance assembly, either slowing down or speeding up the oscillator, a practice known as regulation. Watchmakers have devised multiple innovations to achieve this, including the free-sprung balance, exemplified by the Gyromax of Patek Philippe and Microstella of Rolex. While a simple concept in principle, the mechanics and practice of regulation are nuanced. Here we’ll delve into the theory of regulation and the primary regulating systems: the curb-pin regulator and the free-sprung (or variable inertia) balance. The Lange L043.4 with a screwed balance inspired by pocket watches Basic concepts In order to better understand watch regulation, we need to first cover some of the basic physics behind the watch oscillator: The component responsible for the running rate of a movement is its regulating organ. The regulating organ is made up of a hairspring paired to a balance, which together are also known as a harmonic oscillator. The natural oscillation period is the time it takes the balance to make a full swing, back and forth. The period is made up of two vibrations, one for each direction of the balance motion, with the escapement being unlocked at each vibration. Notably, the natural period of a balance wheel is intrinsic to itself and does not depend on the escapement type or the going train ratio. ...
Fratello
Ask a random watch enthusiast about the great diving watches in history, and the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms will be on the tip of many tongues. In 2023, Blancpain celebrated the 70th anniversary of its legendary Fifty Fathoms in three acts. With a trio of completely different releases, the brand gave us a good idea of […] Visit Hands-On With The New Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Tech BOC IV to read the full article.
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