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Bulova Makes a Stronger (and Smaller) Case for Why You Should Add the Lunar Pilot Chronograph Worn & Wound
Bulova Makes Feb 8, 2023

Bulova Makes a Stronger (and Smaller) Case for Why You Should Add the Lunar Pilot Chronograph

The history of the Bulova Lunar Pilot Chronograph is a nebulous one. Sure, its claim to fame is that it was worn on the moon’s surface by astronaut Dave Scott during the 1971 Apollo 15 mission. As the story goes, Scott’s issued Omega Speedmaster malfunctioned during his second moonwalk, which opened up the door for his personal Bulova Lunar Pilot to get some action. But there were always questions to be answered in regards to where its design came from, what movement it used, and how it got into Scott’s possession in the first place. If you’re an Apollo enthusiast, moonwatch enthusiast, or both, then I’m sure these queries already have the gears turning. But before you move that cursor over to your browser search bar, I strongly suggest you stay right here and check out this editorial piece written back in 2016 by W&W; contributor, Hung Doan, as he covers all the bases in this interesting piece of investigative journalism. Alright, welcome back! Interesting bit of history, right? Dave Scott’s Bulova Worn On The Moon During The Apollo 15 Mission Fast forward to today, Bulova has announced that they are expanding their Lunar Pilot Chronograph line with two brand new models – a black dial and accompanying subdials harkening back to the traditional steel case special edition model and a cream textured dial with navy blue accents. Both variations get a new and improved case that’ll be more suitable for a wider range of wrist sizes, as well as a cleaner dial layou...

INTRODUCING: The Bulova Lunar Pilot and Accutron Astronaut prepare for lift off once again Time+Tide
Accutron Astronaut prepare Feb 7, 2023

INTRODUCING: The Bulova Lunar Pilot and Accutron Astronaut prepare for lift off once again

The Accutron Astronaut is being reissued with incredible accuracy The Bulova Lunar Pilot is getting rid of the date and coming down to 43.5mm The Lunar Pilot will also be available in a blue and white colour scheme The 1960s space age was an incredible time for the progression of technology, even if NASA was … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Bulova Lunar Pilot and Accutron Astronaut prepare for lift off once again appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HBO’s The Last of Us illustrates the potent meaning watches can carry (as well as a great gift idea) Time+Tide
Feb 5, 2023

HBO’s The Last of Us illustrates the potent meaning watches can carry (as well as a great gift idea)

Editor’s note: If you have never played The Last of Us video games, or have yet to start HBO’s adaption for television (get on it!), please beware there are small spoilers for the beginning of episode one below. HBO always seems to have the hit show of each season. Game of Thrones: House of the Dragon dominated … ContinuedThe post HBO’s The Last of Us illustrates the potent meaning watches can carry (as well as a great gift idea) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Code 11.59 Minute Repeater Supersonnerie Smoked Sapphire Dial SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces Feb 3, 2023

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Code 11.59 Minute Repeater Supersonnerie Smoked Sapphire Dial

Besides the Universelle grand complication, Audemars Piguet has another ace up its sleeve when it comes to its line of round watches. Originally launched a blue enamel dial, the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Minute Repeater Supersonnerie gains sharper aesthetics with a smoked sapphire dial and a pink gold case. Initial thoughts A big part of the appeal of a repeater is the mystifying mass of racks and levers that drive the chiming mechanism and are most often hidden under the dial. Unveiling their secret is sometimes best done with the direct approach of not having a solid dial. A clear sapphire dials is arguably perfect it for a repeater, because the complication is usually constructed on the movement’s dial side. Unlike other frontal complications such as perpetual calendars, chiming complications are highly interactive – the racks are set in motion during the chiming sequence in a mechanical dance, all while the chimes sound, a performance that elevates the appeal of the complication. And for the Code 11.59 specifically, the tinted sapphire dial works especially well. Matched with high-contrast pink gold, it is an ideal complement for the case design as it blends an otherwise classical complication with contemporary livery that matches the modern styling of the case. As a result, the new repeater is one of the most appealing watches in the Code 11.59 range, with an intrinsic appeal that few of its brethren possesess. Contemporary package While retaining the same...

TAG Heuer Hits the Track with New Carrera Chronograph x Porsche Orange Racing Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Hits Feb 2, 2023

TAG Heuer Hits the Track with New Carrera Chronograph x Porsche Orange Racing

TAG Heuer and Porsche have revealed the latest fruits of their partnership in a new Cerrar Chronograph dubbed the Orange Racing. It’s been two years since the announcement of these two brands coming together once again, which came alongside this Porsche Carrera with road surface textured dial, and the latest member of that family turns up the color for an equal amount of drama. This watch represents the sixth creation of a TAG Heuer x Porsche watch, and while it treads into new territory thanks to its unique colorway, it also carries many of the familiar hallmarks we’ve come to expect from TAG Heuer chronographs.  This Carrera x Porsche Chronograph, much like the examples that came before it, features a full set of applied Arabic numerals around that dial marking each 5 minute segment rather than the hours. This lends itself to the sporty, speedometer-esque feeling of the dial, which in this case, is accentuated by orange outlines defining each area of the dial. The black base of the dial gets a fine vertical brushing that’s noticeable, but doesn’t quite compete with the application of color. The rings of color, which inspire the name of the watch, appear to be something near Porsche’s Lava Orange (paint code M2A), though that specific color isn’t referenced by TAG Heuer. This color lands somewhere between red and orange and obviously works in rather dramatic fashion against the black backdrop of this watch. The dial itself is outlined, as are each of the sub ...

Hands On: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Grained Dial in White Gold SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Grained Feb 2, 2023

Hands On: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Grained Dial in White Gold

Audemars Piguet (AP) just revealed its new launches for the year and one of the highlights is a new version of the classic Royal Oak “Jumbo”. Harking back to the uncommon “Tuscan” dial from three decades ago, the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Ultra-Thin in white gold boasts a grained blue dial. Initial thoughts At a distance, the new “Jumbo” looks like an average Royal Oak with its white metal case and blue dial. But on the hand, it is evidently different. It is still thin and elegant but wonderfully weighty thanks to the gold case and bracelet. Granted, the quintessential Royal Oak is a steel “Jumbo” but the white gold case leaves this feeling a bit more refined and sophisticated. And then there’s the dial. With its granular surface, it is recognisably different from the average Royal Oak – and also easily beautiful. The PVD treatment gives it a gorgeous metallic blue that combines with the texture to catch the light nicely. Although it is not a limited edition, this feels special, mostly due to the fact that it’s the only white gold “Jumbo” in the catalogue. There is another white metal “Jumbo” in the line up – the platinum model exclusive to AP Houses – but it has a green dial that feels a bit too fashionable. This grained blue dial, however, feels more like a classic. The standard steel “Jumbo” is already an excellent watch, combining the perfect proportions of the original Royal Oak with the excellent cal. 7121. This version in white ...

Demystifying the mystery dial Time+Tide
Breguet s Mudges Feb 1, 2023

Demystifying the mystery dial

Many times, a horological invention is credited to a household watchmaking name. I bet that most of you won’t have heard of Jean-Eugène Robert-Houdin, however. Among Breguets, Mudges and Danielses, his invention was less technically impressive, yet no less astonishing, which may partly explain his amazingly successful career as a magician. Following in the footsteps … ContinuedThe post Demystifying the mystery dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A Week in Watches Ep. 34: A New Balance from Omega, Dune Watches from Christopher Ward, and a Gold Metric from Brew Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Jan 29, 2023

A Week in Watches Ep. 34: A New Balance from Omega, Dune Watches from Christopher Ward, and a Gold Metric from Brew

Welcome to episode 34 of A Week in Watches, where we’ve got managing editor Blake Buettner jumping back in to discuss a handful of new releases, and one important survey. We’re kicking things off with the biggest news of the week that’s focused on something very small from Omega, and that is their new Spirate Balance, which we introduce on the site right here, and react to in real time right here. We still not sure how it’s pronounced but the technology is impressive! The watch its packed in also makes quite the statement, and we’d love to hear your thoughts on this one. That Omega wasn’t the only big news this week, though. Brew dropped a stunning gold Metric on us that works way better than it has any business doing. Is this the watch that gets us into gold? Likely. Next up are a couple releases from the UK, with the 36mm Three Hander collection of watches from Farer, and new C65 Dune watches from Christopher Ward. Lots of unique personality to find in these watches, from big colorful dials, to svelte shapely cases. Finally, we’ve got a watch and wrist size survey from Mark Cho of NYC’s The Armoury. Let your voice be heard by taking the survey found right here. This week’s episode was brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop. For an excellent and ever-growing catalog of watches, straps, clocks, and more, head to windupwatchshop.com. The post A Week in Watches Ep. 34: A New Balance from Omega, Dune Watches from Christopher Ward, and a Gold Metric from Br...

Outfitting the wrists of the best-dressed celebrities of the last year Time+Tide
Jan 28, 2023

Outfitting the wrists of the best-dressed celebrities of the last year

By no means do I consider myself being the fashion police, but I think I can spot a good fit when I see one. Last year saw plenty of good ones, but the shortlist below is what I consider to be the most fashionable male celebrities over the past year. Though most of them are … ContinuedThe post Outfitting the wrists of the best-dressed celebrities of the last year appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

eBay Finds: Seiko Alarms, an Omega DeVille, & The UG Polerouter Worn & Wound
Omega DeVille & Jan 26, 2023

eBay Finds: Seiko Alarms, an Omega DeVille, & The UG Polerouter

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Seiko Automatic Alarm Bell-Matic You can never go wrong with vintage Seiko, especially when it’s a Bell-Matic alarm! Of course, we all have alarms on our phones, but then again, we also have clocks and we’re wearing watches right? The Bell-Matic alarms are killer, and their little chirping sound is just so cool. This model is an early one, from 1971 and has a nice chunky 70’s style cushion case. The 38mm wide case looks superb and unpolished with the original brushed finish. The crown is unsigned which is correct. The silver dial is super clean and the watch runs and works as it should per the seller. And best of all it comes on its original ‘coffin link’ bracelet, so it’s ready to rock. View auction here. Elgin Black Knight Here’s a rare one for you bidding pleasure, the unique and iconic Elgin Black Knight. This design masterpiece hails from the 1950’s and just screams “Atomic Age” with its distinctive yellow gold fill case and lugs. I don’t even know how to properly describe them, but one look and you know it’s a Black Knight. The 28mm case is in excellent condition, with no wear through. The lugs are the star here, but the wide, flat bezel is quite ...

TAG Heuer Aquaracer Guide Teddy Baldassarre
TAG Heuer Jan 25, 2023

TAG Heuer Aquaracer Guide

TAG Heuer, which was founded as Heuer Watchmaking by Edouard Heuer in 1860, built much of its modern reputation as an innovator in chronograph watches for automobile racing. Its most iconic models, the Heuer Carrera and Heuer Monaco, both debuted in the 1960s and remain inextricably linked with motorsports. By the end of the 1970s, however, the company was exploring a new realm of sport-oriented timepieces that would be at the forefront of its transition from the family-owned Heuer firm to the modern era that began in 1985 when it was acquired by Luxembourg-based high-tech manufacturer Techniques d’Avant-Garde (TAG). The watches from this pivotal period would form the foundation of today’s TAG Heuer Aquaracer collection, which continues to grow and evolve today.   Aquaracer Ancestors: Ref. 844 and Beyond (1978-1998)   In 1978, Heuer launched the now-legendary Ref. 844 (above left, next to the 2021 Revival edition), the forerunner of its 1000 and 2000 series of divers’ tool watches that paved the way for the Aquaracer collection. Ref. 844 - the brainchild of company scion Jack Heuer, who also created the Carrera, the Monaco, and numerous other enduring models - featured a 42mm steel case, water-resistant to 200 meters and containing mostly quartz and a few mechanical movements. The dial was distinguished by an inner 24-hour scale of red numerals and large geometric hour markers reminiscent of those on the Rolex Submariner, a model Jack Heuer has readily acknowle...

HANDS-ON: The new IWC Portofino collection delivers classical sophistication in spades Time+Tide
Casio nally Jan 23, 2023

HANDS-ON: The new IWC Portofino collection delivers classical sophistication in spades

IWC usually brings to mind the stern, sporty range of military-inspired pilot’s watches, and occasionally the suave dressiness of one of their Portugeisers. Often under-appreciated is the Portofino collection - a group of watches which pay homage to one of the most classic eras in watchmaking history. With elegance and detail-oriented excellence in spades, the … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The new IWC Portofino collection delivers classical sophistication in spades appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The 8 best Hublot skeletons to come out of the cupboard Time+Tide
Hublot skeletons Jan 22, 2023

The 8 best Hublot skeletons to come out of the cupboard

Whether you’re a lover or a hater, nobody makes watches quite like Hublot. They are pioneers in materials and styles, which is what makes them such an attractive beacon to some of the world’s greatest modern athletes, artists, musicians, chefs and more. One of their most unique qualities is pride in showing off their innermost … ContinuedThe post The 8 best Hublot skeletons to come out of the cupboard appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Why I Love It: The Vacheron Constantin Metiers d’Art Lunar New Year Watches, Plus a Brief Survey of “Year of the Rabbit” Limited Editions Worn & Wound
Vacheron Constantin Metiers d’Art Lunar New Jan 17, 2023

Why I Love It: The Vacheron Constantin Metiers d’Art Lunar New Year Watches, Plus a Brief Survey of “Year of the Rabbit” Limited Editions

January 22 of this year marks the Lunar New Year, which is a massively important celebration across many east Asian countries. For as long as I’ve been interested in watches, we’ve seen many large brands release a selection of limited edition watches tied to the Lunar New Year celebration, often exclusively for the Chinese market. The occasion is a natural fit for a limited edition watch on a number of fronts. First, it reinforces the importance of the Chinese and east Asian market to high end, global, luxury watch brands. And it also offers these brands an opportunity to produce watches that are extravagant while also being somewhat playful. Lunar New Year watches are almost tied to the Chinese Zodiac, so as we close in on the year of the rabbit, don’t be surprised if watches fit for Bugs Bunny start to take over your Instagram feed.  This year, among a handful of Lunar New Year watches, one that stands out for its sheer opulence is a new release from Vacheron Constantin, through their Metiers d’Art line. The Metiers d’Art Legend of the Chinese Zodiac – Year of the Rabbit (a mouthful of a name) finds a rabbit sitting in the center of a dial that displays the time, day, and date within a series of four separate apertures. The rabbit here is very much center stage, which is the whole point of Metiers d’Art watches.  While handcraft and exceptional finishing are foundational to the Vacheron Constantin story, the Metiers d’Art watches are laser focused on de...

The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph Goes Full Titanium Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph Jan 12, 2023

The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph Goes Full Titanium

The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional has taken significant strides over the past couple of years in both design and form, while simultaneously offering multidimensional models across the entire collection. Examples include the green dialed titanium diver with the Aquaracer Professional 300, a fully lumed dial with the Aquaracer Professional Night Diver, and the introduction of the Aquaracer Professional 200 line, which packaged their flagship dive watch into a tidy 40mm case and refined some of the design elements in the process. With all of these signs pointing in the right direction for the brand, the table is set for TAG Heuer to continue their momentum in 2023, and boy, do they do so with the release of the Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph. TAG Heuer takes the Aquaracer Professional 200 further by going lighter with this new iteration of the Solargraph. All of the case components, including the case body, bezel, and caseback, as well as the accompanying bracelet, are built from grade 2 titanium. Unlike the more refined versions of the Aquaracer Professional 200, there isn’t a hint of polish on the case. Instead, every millimeter of the case and bracelet gets a sand blasted finish giving this diver a more resolute and utilitarian aesthetic. Differentiating Lume The bezel maintains the signature twelve-sided shape with each facet housing a set of six bezel teeth. The black numerals and markers are displayed in-relief, once again keeping the same design language wi...

Ruminations on my Rolex GMT journey that took me from Batman to Root Beer with a few diversions along the way Time+Tide
Rolex GMT journey Jan 9, 2023

Ruminations on my Rolex GMT journey that took me from Batman to Root Beer with a few diversions along the way

Back in 2014, I wrote my first article for Time & Tide. It was a review of the Rolex GMT Master II, reference 116710BLNR which unfortunately came to be well known as the “Batman GMT”. This nickname is all well and good, except I don’t like Batman. You’d be forgiven for wondering why anyone named … ContinuedThe post Ruminations on my Rolex GMT journey that took me from Batman to Root Beer with a few diversions along the way appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Owner’s Perspective: Reviewing The Zenith Defy Skyline WatchAdvice
Zenith Defy Skyline What we Jan 9, 2023

The Owner’s Perspective: Reviewing The Zenith Defy Skyline

What we like: Comfort factor on either steel or rubberUnique 1/10th Second sub-dialbeautiful blue dial What we don’t like: No micro-adjust system on the braceletThe bracelet can catch arm hairs occasionallyInability to accurately set the time with the 1/10th second sub-dial Overall rating: 8.25/10 Value for money: 8/10 Wearability: 8/ 10 Design: 9/10 Build quality: 8/10 When Zenith released the Defy Skyline towards the start of 2022 at LVMH Watch Week, I was immediately drawn to it. Not only had Zenith completely re-imagined the original Defy from the late 60s, but had designed a modern steel sports watch with today’s watch consumer in mind. A great blend of modern lines, a bold design and styling harking back to the original Defy that was released in 1969. With many integrated sports watches on the market these days, it is good to see that a brand like Zenith is taking inspiration from some of its earlier model lines and bringing this to today’s consumer. Now, full disclosure, this isn’t a loan watch for this review; I did order it back in April 2022 and, after a 6-month wait, finally had it on my wrist in October. So this is my hands-on review of the Zenith Defy Skyline now I’ve owned and worn for the past couple of months. And in that time, I’ve really put it through its paces – office work, beach, snorkelling, surfing, trap shooting, and overseas trips, to name a few!  How it wears: The Defy Skyline has been designed for wearability. With a diameter of 4...

Audemars Piguet Introduces Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon “Dimpled Dial” SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces Royal Oak Selfwinding Jan 6, 2023

Audemars Piguet Introduces Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon “Dimpled Dial”

Arguably the most significant Audemars Piguet timepiece ever, the Royal Oak celebrated its 50th anniversary last year with a host of new models, including the all-new Royal Oak “Jumbo” ref. 16202 and even a skeletonised, selfwinding flying tourbillon. And just before entering the New Year, Audemars Piguet (AP) dropped the Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon “Dimpled Dial”. Essentially identical to the standard model, the new version – which is available in either white or pink gold – is distinguished by its surface finishing: dimples on the dial and frosting on the bezel. Limited to 33 pieces each, the pair are primarily for Japan, with only a handful of watches available outside the country. According to our sources, the unusual combination of finishes were proposed by Japanese watch influencer Chronopeace, explaining why most of the run will be sold only in Japan – though this has neither been confirmed nor denied by AP. Initial thoughts I first heard about this discreet release when images were shared with me. As AP occasionally won’t say what drops, the watch was not announced officially, but instead quietly added to its online catalogue, perhaps because it is only available in Japan. Despite being low key, this new release will surely appeal to anyone who likes the Royal Oak but wants the added oomph of a special dial. At a glance, the watch easily reveals itself to be stunning. The layout and style are familiar, but the few tweaks to the dial an...

Up Close: Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Starwheel SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Starwheel Jan 2, 2023

Up Close: Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Starwheel

In an unexpected, end-of-year announcement, Audemars Piguet unveiled the Code 11.59 Starwheel, reviving the wandering hours complication that had been absent from its catalogue since 2003. Inspired by a 17th century clock, the wandering hours made its way into wristwatches thanks to Audemars Piguet (AP), which debuted the first wristwatch with the display in 1991. Retaining the familiar three-disc hour display, the new Starwheel is nonetheless an entirely different watch from the compact original. Powered by an in-house movement contained in the Code 11.59 case, the Starwheel has physical presence by virtue of its size, but also a surprising degree of refinement thanks to the excellent finishing of the dial and case. Initial thoughts With a modern look defined by dark colours and instrument-like numerals, the Code 11.59 Starwheel looks pretty much the same as it does in photos – but it is far more appealing than expected. In the metal the watch has an impressive degree of visual detail, particularly the polished bevels on the dial components, and a reassuringly solid feel, all of which give it a great deal of tactile appeal. The refinement in terms of visual detail also translates into the movement, which is in-house both in terms of the base and module. Although it functions identically to the original Star Wheel, the Code 11.59 model has an improved display mechanism. Instead of the periodic rotation found in the original model, the discs rotate continually throughout ...

HANDS-ON: The Chopard Alpine Eagle XL Chrono offers a sportier version on an integrated rubber strap Time+Tide
Chopard Alpine Eagle XL Chrono Dec 31, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Chopard Alpine Eagle XL Chrono offers a sportier version on an integrated rubber strap

With the heat from integrated-bracelet sports watches showing no signs of cooling off, more and more brands are getting into the game. And in some cases, they’re resurrecting those bold designs from their own back catalogues, which is exactly what Chopard did in 2019, when it released the Alpine Eagle to great fanfare. The Alpine … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Chopard Alpine Eagle XL Chrono offers a sportier version on an integrated rubber strap appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Best of 2022: Compelling Complications SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Dec 25, 2022

Best of 2022: Compelling Complications

Most brands, especially the establishment names, stuck to the evolutionary rather than revolutionary in 2022, which also held true for the latest complications for the year. Nearly all of the year’s most notable complications were derived from past concepts. But the result can still be impressive, as demonstrated by the Ulysse Nardin Freak S. The latest version of a watch that was revolutionary when it was introduced in 2001, the Freak S embodies the ideas that made the original Freak a milestone, including the unorthodox movement construction and the liberal use of intricately-shaped silicon components. But above all it boasts a far more complex regulator that takes the form of twin oscillators connected by a differential. As outlined in our in-depth review, the twin-balance setup was mostly found on classical (and expensive) chronometers from the likes of Greubel Forsey and Philippe Dufour, making the Freak S an outlier with its hyper-modern design. And at US$137,000, it is also more affordable than similar complications from other makers. Standing in stark contrast to the aggressively contemporary styling of the Freak S is the Cartier Masse Mystérieuse. Typical of Cartier with its Roman numerals and ruby cabochon in the crown, the Masse Mystérieuse is inspired by the mystery clocks made by the jeweller in the first half of the 20th century. The result of over eight years of research and development, the Masse Mystérieuse was the final complication devised by C...

Why the Rolex Daytona is still the ultimate chronograph to trigger serious FOMO Time+Tide
Rolex Daytona Dec 24, 2022

Why the Rolex Daytona is still the ultimate chronograph to trigger serious FOMO

When it comes to the world’s most desired timepieces, one name stands head and shoulders above the rest: Rolex. And among the legendary models from the storied marque, the Daytona chronograph is at the top of most enthusiasts’ wish lists. No other chronograph generates the same level of FOMO heat in today’s market, with its … ContinuedThe post Why the Rolex Daytona is still the ultimate chronograph to trigger serious FOMO appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.