Introducing: The Czapek Antarctique Is All About Texture
On the case and bracelet, and also on the dial.
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On the case and bracelet, and also on the dial.
Time+Tide
Having worked for Tissot selling their watches for two years before joining the T+T team, I’d like to think that I have a comprehensive grasp of their offering. Purchasing trends were easily noticeable during that time, but what was also apparent is that some great watches were criminally overlooked. With models such as the PRX … ContinuedThe post 5 sleeper hits from Tissot that you need to consider appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Think outside of the box with this week's vintage selection.
Deployant
We take a close look at the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel Alfons Mucha - and examine two of the three watches released in 2018 in Rare Watches.
Time+Tide
Sometimes I encounter a watch that makes me think of Kim Jong-il. Let me explain. With more than 1,200 official titles, the North Korean dictator boasted more aliases than the average member of the Wu-Tang Clan. These included “Guardian Deity Of The Planet”, “Ever-Victorious General”, “Lodestar of the 21st Century”, “Eternal Bosom of Hot Love” … ContinuedThe post Why do brands give their new watches such dumb names? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
In a sea of automobile-themed timepieces, Reservoir has managed to offer something a little different in the 356 Speedster-inspired Kanister
Revolution
Full of warm tones and genuine history, the Hanhart Bronze 417 Chronograph Edition No. 2 “Copperhead” is a pilot’s watch for the stylish set.
SJX Watches
Founded by a Slovakian duo who are both trained jewellers, Molnar Fabry specialises in elaborately decorated watches built on existing movements. Last year the pair reworked a Vaucher automatic calibre, but the brand’s latest project started life over a century ago. Echoing one of Molnar Fabry’s creations from 2018, the Grand Master Minute Repeater is essentially a pocket watch converted into a wristwatch. Starting out as a C.H. Meylan minute repeating pocket watch from 1901, the Grand Master features a hand-made case containing the pocket watch movement, which has been entirely refinished and extensively engraved. A close-up of the heavily decorated movement Initial thoughts Molnar Fabry does high quality work especially in terms of decoration, both for movement components and engraving. Their style is usual ornate, which might not be to everyone’s taste, but the brand has shown versatility in its past work, which has included more streamlined designs. The Grand Master is definitely ornate with its fully engraved case and movement. The quality and thoroughness of the work is impressive. And relatively to its ballpark price, the Grand Master is priced reasonably compared to what better-known makers in Switzerland would charge. But as with many pocket watch conversions, the Grand Master is a huge watch. The case is 47 mm by 14 mm. For anyone who likes their watches on this scale – and appreciates the skill that went into the decoration – the Grand Master is off t...
Hodinkee
There are 1,899 of them. Meet the man that's cataloging them all in one database.
Hodinkee
Luxury timepieces play a significant role in the murky world of spycraft – just not the way they're portrayed in Hollywood.
SJX Watches
Already “fool-proof” as complicated watches go, the H. Moser & Cie. perpetual calendar has just been given a stylish facelift, resulting in a pair of watches bearing the signature smoked blue dial. The first of the two is the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Funky Blue that is almost identical to its predecessor but even more minimalist with a barely-there logo in transparent lacquer. But the headline model is surely the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tutorial, which has a whimsical user guide on the dial. The Tutorial (left) and the Funky Blue Initial thoughts I like the Tutorial because it has an ingenious movement and a sense of humour. Though the dial is the only element that’s different with the Tutorial, it is certainly an improved watch than its predecessor, simply because it perfectly encapsulates the quirkiness that defines H. Moser & Cie. The dial is so obvious that the watch really does stand out – it is certainly s a conversation piece. But it is the juxtaposition of the tongue-in-cheek schematics on the dial and the serious mechanics underneath gives the watch an amusing, original character. Perhaps only the Schaffhausen-based watchmaker that can pull this off without looking silly, given its technical competence and humorous spirit. That said, the “cheat sheet” dial is entirely practical, as it helps with both adjusting and reading the calendar – somewhat ironically since the Moser perpetual calendar mechanism is one of the most fuss free on the ma...
Time+Tide
The Longines Legend Diver collection, since its inception in 2007, has presented a strong example of heritage revivals done right. Longines, a trendsetter in this regard, has always done a great job of digging into their rich archives to take beloved designs of the brand and reinterpret them with fresh and flavourful notes that speak … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Longines Legend Diver Watch adds new gradient dials to its repertoire appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
In Ken Gargett's opinion, the Charles Heidsieck Blanc des Millénaires 2006 champagne is still quite exuberant and has a chalky/minerally backing with a little grip on the finish, entwined with a hint of bitter almonds. Ken would happily drink this any time he could as it is undoubtedly one of the best champagnes from the 2006 vintage.
Time+Tide
EDITOR’S NOTE: “Be brave. Take risks. Nothing can substitute experience.” It’s hard to argue with those words from the author Paulo Coelho . Experience is the best teacher (albeit a brutal one, too). It is the creator of memories, the catalyst of understanding and the source of worldly wisdom to boot. Suffice to say, a life … ContinuedThe post THE READER RANT: Life is about experience. Don’t deny your watch its own adventures appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
For an uncompromising mechanical watch enthusiast, one of the most dreaded words in the specifications of a watch is surely “quartz”. Oftentimes that dread is followed by the thought, if only it was mechanical… I must admit this went through my mind when I discovered the lovely Cartier Santos Dumont in 2019. And that was despite Cartier’s best efforts in communicating that the movement inside was a long-autonomy quartz calibre with a six-year battery life. The Cartier Santos Dumont trio, with only the XL variant (extreme left) being mechanical In the time since, I began to ponder the question: why do I seek the latest electronic gadgets, but am dismissive towards quartz watches? Just because quartz movements are often cheap and easily available, does that leave them uniformly uninteresting? The Quartz Crisis On Monday, December 29, 1969, tucked somewhere in the The New York Times was an eight-line paragraph that ended with “[the] world’s first electronic wrist watch with a crystal oscillator.” That electronic watch, as you may have guessed, was the Seiko Quartz-Astron. It was barely obvious at the time, but the announcement, innocuous as it was, would be the harbinger of a crisis for Swiss watchmaking. The father of all quartz watches, the Seiko Quartz-Astron 35SQ in 18K yellow gold The Quartz-Astron cost as much as a Toyota Corolla at the time of of its release – its price was equivalent to about US$1,200 – and was without a doubt a luxury product. Ov...
Revolution
A detailed look at the extremely rare examples of Longines’ early waterproof chronographs with mushroom-shaped push-pieces.
Time+Tide
The everyday watch is an enigma of design. It’s the guiding principal of most designers to create a purpose-built watch. So when you tell them to create something that suits multiple situations, the resulting watch can sometimes become a jack of all trades and a master of none. It’s this outcome that Raymond Pee, founder … ContinuedThe post Gane takes on minimalist design with the Type C appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Launched in 2020 inside the all-new Evolution 9 collection, Grand Seiko’s top-of-the-line mechanical and Spring Drive movements have now found their way into the distinctive 44GS case, which happens to turn 55 this year. With its wide, flat lugs, the 44GS case is a familiar, quintessential Grand Seiko (GS) design, but the Heritage Collection 44GS 55th Anniversary Limited Edition pair bring along relatively new features: the case is machined from brand’s proprietary Ever Brilliant Steel for the first time, while the dial now sports an unusually pronounced woodgrain pattern. Initial thoughts The 44GS 55th Anniversary is typical of the brand’s recent launches with its iteration on familiar elements but made different with minor tweaks. It’s a subtlety that appeals to enthusiasts who cherish variations on a theme, though casual observers will find it difficult to distinguish between the models. But the fundamental appeal of GS remains, which is a top notch execution within its price segment. That said, the latest pair are arguably a bit more special. One factor in their favour is the patterned dial. It’s a newish addition to the GS line up and also exclusive to date, having been used only in two models, both of which are expensive watches in precious metals. The new 44GS is, of course, in steel and hence more affordable. But the case is no ordinary steel, but instead Ever Brilliant Steel – the corrosion-resistant alloy is being applied to GS cases for the first ...
Deployant
For many watch enthusiasts, there is just something poetic and romantic about manual-winding watches. Perhaps these watches are in its most rudimentary form in terms of how it is powered, or maybe it lies in the simple fact that manual-winding movements allow us to have an intimate and tactile relationship with our timepieces. For thisRead More
Quill & Pad
Thrill of the chase. Intellectual satisfaction. Investment. There are nearly as many reasons for collecting things as there are things to collect. But when it comes to watches and writing instruments, a variety of shared motivations, perhaps catalyzed by the obvious common characteristics of the objects themselves, make them conspicuous crossovers for collectors.
Deployant
Quick look at the Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date Blue Dial, adding to our comprehensive review of the Geen and Grey models in 2019.
SJX Watches
A young brand established only in 2018 – but backed by noted industry figures – Norqain is best known for sports watches equipped with high-quality movements produced by Kenissi, the manufacture owned by Tudor and Chanel. At the higher end of the brand’s offerings is a dual-time watch with a ceramic bezel insert and patterned dial that was introduced just last year in steel. Now it gets a luxe facelift, resulting in the Adventure Neverest GMT 41mm Steel & Gold. Available either with rubber strap or steel bracelet Initial thoughts The all-steel Neverest GMT a straightforward, agreeable proposition: practical functions backed by a solid movement, while boasting a fairly elaborate case and dial. Yet such features aren’t enough in today’s market since extras like a ceramic bezel are almost the norm. Despite its strong execution in terms of fit and finish, the original Neverest GMT lacked a punchy aesthetic, with its styling seeming a bit derivative. That’s changed with the two-tone model. The addition of a modest quantity of pink gold gives the watch a more upscale feel, especially complemented by the glossy ceramic bezel, resulting in a look more comparable with its competition in the same price range. Two-tone here means the addition of gold details, rather than an excessive use of the precious metal The gold details, however, mean the watch is about 40% pricier than its steel counterpart. At US$5,290 on a strap and more on a bracelet, the two-tone Neverest GMT ...
Hodinkee
We asked. They answered. And some of us now need to take out a loan.
Hodinkee
Last President's Day, we released one of our most ambitious watch research projects to date: an attempt to catalog all known watches of U.S. Presidents. We knew that more watches would continue to come out of the woodwork, so we have collected a number of new watch discoveries here and have added them to the full guide. As always, please let us know if you happen to become aware of any U.S. President's watch we don't have listed.
Deployant
Sinn releases a new EZM, now 13.1 with a left hand crown arrangement and a diving chronograph capable of 500m water resistance rating.
Time+Tide
When the original Grand Seiko SLGH005 “White Birch” was first unveiled, I was overjoyed that their 9SA5 hi-beat caliber had made its way into the standard production caliber. It is a personal goal of mine to own a watch powered by this movement, which represents the pinnacle of their mechanical movement technology. But, as I … ContinuedThe post Grand Seiko’s family tree grows with their new SLGH011 “Green Birch” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
A lot has happened over the last seven days, but earlier today TAG Heuer ushered in their next generation of Connected Watch: the Calibre E4. Some collectors scoff at the idea of a smartwatch, claiming that such a digital device does not have the artistic essence of a traditional mechanical timepiece. But let’s face it, … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: TAG launches new Connected Watches, 2022 looks promising for Longines appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
A pioneer in the luxury smartwatches, TAG Heuer releases the fourth generation of its Connected with upgraded performance and two new case sizes.
Time+Tide
While some watch collectors may ‘pooh pooh’ smartwatches in general, ultimately it is the largest category of watches in the marketplace today. Sure, they may not possess the traditional glamour of mechanical watchmaking but their modern functionalities are extremely compelling to watch wearers around the world. The USP of the TAG Heuer Connected lineup has … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Connected Calibre E4 is smaller, sleeker in 42mm, and better optioned again appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Hands-on coverage of the full commercial release of the Leica L1 and L2 wristwatches. The watches are available now for order at selected Leica Boutiques.
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