26,296 articles · 267 videos found · page 822 of 886
Revolution
When the BVLGARI Octo Finissimo Ultra launched earlier this year, it was a horological mic drop that blew the minds of everyone in the industry. At only 1.80mm thick, it is the eighth record breaker in eight years and the culmination of the Octo Finissimo’s journey to explore the heights of ultra-thin watchmaking. In the […]
Time+Tide
Most people associate IWC with pilot’s watches, which makes total sense due to their rich aviation history and classics like the Mark and Big Pilot series. But with their Portugieser and Portofino collections, IWC prove they still know how to appeal to dressier sensibilities. The latest duo of Portofino watches, the IWC Portofino Perpetual Calendar … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The new IWC Portofino Perpetual Calendar IW344601 and IW344602 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Having just announced a limited edition with a gold case and semiprecious stone dial, TAG Heuer has debuted another all-gold Carrera, the Carrera Chronograph “JPS”. It features an 18k yellow gold case matched with a black-and-gold dial inspired by the 1158 CHN chronograph of the 1970s, a colour combination better known as the “JPS”. That’s is short for John Player Special, a cigarette brand that sponsored the Lotus Formula 1 team in the 1970s. Its brand colours were black and gold, which was also the paintwork for the Lotus race cars. That led to the “JPS” label for the Rolex Daytona in the same colours, though the nickname has since been applied to sports chronographs in the same livery. Initial thoughts The Carrera “JPS” is essentially the same model that’s usually seen in steel, but now given a luxe makeover with a gold case and “JPS” dial. In typical Carrera style it opts for a two-counter look with a “ghost” seconds at six, resulting in a vintage vibe although the case is a very modern and slightly chunky 42 mm in diameter. But the new Carrera really is all about the dial, which is no doubt meant to evoke what is now a million-dollar watch. While the market for vintage Daytonas has plateaued or even declined since its peak four years ago, the Daytona “JPS” has continued to sell for large sums, with a handful crossing the million-dollar mark over the past year. Besides the rarity of the model, the value also reflects the intrinsic appe...
Time+Tide
Oris has a long history at the forefront of environmental issues, releasing a continuous series of limited editions to benefit causes from ocean reef health to pollution. Their newest release continues the tradition. The 1,000-piece Oris Coulson Limited Edition is designed to bring awareness to the very real problem of wildfires (or bushfires in Australia), … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Flame to please with the Oris Coulson Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Presented to the world leaders who were recently in Phnom Penh for the ASEAN Summit, the ASEAN Lotus Tourbillon was created by the Prince Horology Vocational Training Center, the impressively-equipped watchmaking school set up by local conglomerate Prince Holding Group. (I visited the school in 2020 just before it opened its doors – see our report here.) Produced in an initial run of 25 pieces for the summit, it contains a hand-wind movement that is as notable for both its hand finishing and the one-minute tourbillon regulator. Cambodian prime minister Hun Sen was personally involved in the design of the watch – he received the very first example – and posted photos of the watch on his Facebook page a few days before the summit with the comment “Khmer can do it”. Initial thoughts Having been aware of the project and its ambitions since I visited the school two years ago, I was expecting much of the Lotus Tourbillon and I wasn’t disappointed. The quality of the execution is immediately apparent in the hand finishing of the components, particularly for the key components of the tourbillon, namely the cage and bridge. Equally impressive is the fact that it was developed and completed in under two years. Admittedly, the Lotus Tourbillon is plain in terms of the dial and case aesthetics, but the mechanical excellence is obvious. Importantly, the movement is likely to make it into a series of watches that will be sold publicly to raise funds for watchmaking school,...
Time+Tide
Hospital chic (via @watchumor) Style is about being appropriately dressed for the occasion. But sometimes life throws you a sartorial curveball. Having to submit to a thin, flexible tube containing a small camera being inserted into your bottom probably qualifies as such. So what to wear on your wrist? Do you take the high-contrast approach … ContinuedThe post The memes of the week: Dumb buys, colonoscopies and the wisdom of dads appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Seems it wasn’t that long ago that GaryG wrote his first “Objects of Desire” article about the watches of Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey, finishing with the sentiment that given the prices of their watches that he was unlikely to be able to buy any of the ones he truly lusted after anytime soon. Gary’s observation at the time was “go big or go home.” As you see, he ended up going big and is now the proud owner of a Greubel Forsey Invention Piece 1.
Hodinkee
A race car is a work of art, and so too are the watches they inspire.
Quill & Pad
The Lundis Bleus arts and crafts are a very special aspect of watchmaking. It is not so much about the mechanical side – escapements, micro rotors, gearwheels, and gold chatons – but more the artistic and aesthetic (dial) side of independent watchmaking. Is this why Thomas Brechtel chose to buy two custom-made watches from the boutique brand?
Time+Tide
It’s easy for panda-dialled chronographs to be pigeonholed into a specific look, or to draw comparisons with other watches that have popularised the colour scheme. Brellum’s latest addition to their Pandial line completely sidesteps this issue with a fairly unique concept - retaining the iconic panda style within a completely blacked-out case and bracelet coated … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Brellum Pandial LE.3 DD DLC Chronometer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Launched to mark 50 years since the original was created by the jeweller’s London workshop, the Cartier Pebble was also perfectly timed to ride the wave of interest in vintage Cartier form watches that began during the pandemic. Looking much like the original but with enough tweaks to set it apart as a modern timepiece, the Pebble reissue is the second commemorative reissue after the Tank Cintrée 100th Anniversary from two years ago. With only six large-size Pebbles made by Cartier London in the 1970s, the original Pebble was long a peculiar watch known only to a few Cartier aficionados. The reissue has changed that, but it is a limited edition of only 150 pieces, a small enough number that it will leave some would-be buyers disappointed. Initial thoughts A hair’s larger than the vintage original, the reissue is a smallish watch by modern standards at 36 mm in diameter but feels larger than that due to the form. In fact, 36 mm is probably the largest it can go without changing the shape; any larger and it will resemble a dinner plate. On the wrist it cuts a striking figure and unlike other vintage remakes, the new Pebble might pass for a modern watch thanks to its novel form. Minor adjustment have been made to the design of the reissue that give it a more refined appearance than the original. The Roman numerals, for instance, have tighter lines. The result is a watch that looks thoughtfully designed. Everything about the reissue is executed well, case to dial to cr...
Quill & Pad
As most folks who follow Patek Philippe are aware, the brand has long been in the habit of making unique watches for special customers, including in recent times entertainment luminaries such as Eric Clapton and Michael Ovitz. It was not until 2015, however, that Patek Philippe publicly issued a number of small editions of previously discontinued references, each in previously unmade metal/dial combinations. This Patek Philippe Reference 5070J-013 is one of those ultra-rare birds. And GaryG wonders if it might bring yellow gold back into fashion single-handedly.
SJX Watches
A much-anticipated series of auctions just concluded in Geneva, the first sale season to take place after financial markets started to crack in mid 2022. All the major auction houses – Christie’s, Phillips, and Sotheby’s – staged sales in the Swiss city, and almost everyone who was anyone turned up (or took part by phone or online). The season’s top performer by the numbers was Christie’s, which sold CHF55.5 million of watches, fees included, largely thanks to the collection of former Ferrari Formula 1 chief Jean Todt. It displaced the traditional number one, Phillips, which sold CHF45.0 million. The Phillips auction at La Reserve. Image – Phillips A few takeaways are immediately apparent in the results. One was widely expected: “hype” watches have come off their highs, often by a third or more. Including obvious candidates like sports watches, namely the Nautilus, Royal Oak, and Overseas, but also brands that enjoyed massive run-ups in value during the pandemic like F.P. Journe. Values are still up from the pre-pandemic lows, but if prices overcorrected on the way up, then it is likely they will do so on the way down. Sotheby’s, for instance, had several dozen examples of various Nautilus and Royal Oak models in its sale, mostly with estimates close to peak values from late 2021. As a result, a third of the watches went unsold. The dip in values was also evident with F.P. Journe, certainly not a “hype” brand but one that enjoy a stellar run during ...
Time+Tide
I may not be an Aussie myself, but green and gold tones definitely get the T+T HQ going. Norqain recently moved upmarket with their Wild One collection, but that does not mean they are abandoning their positioning at lower price points as well. The new Norqain Adventure Sport 42mm Bronze Khaki Dial is a handsome … ContinuedThe post Norqain speaks our language with new bronze and green Adventure Sport 42mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Editor’s Note: Yesterday, the 2022 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) was held. For those who don’t know, it is basically the Oscars of watchmaking. But while there are many prizes to win, one stands above the rest: the “Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prix prize. And this year’s winner is the MB&F;, Legacy Machine Sequential EVO. So … ContinuedThe post MB&F; Sequential EVO takes home the “Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prix prize at 2022 GPHG Awards appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Having launched several elegant and concise time-only watches this year, Grand Seiko has unveiled something once again simple but still unusual: the first regular-production, manual-wind Spring Drive 44GS, the Heritage Collection SBGY011 “Asaborake”. The SBGY011 combines two of the best elements of Grand Seiko (GS), namely the hybrid Spring Drive movement and the distinctive 44GS case. While the combination has been seen before, the SBGY011 brings something new to the table because the movement is manual wind, instead of self-winding as most Spring Drive calibres are. Initial thoughts I appreciate the SBGY011 because it retains the key features of the original, namely the 44GS case, silver dial, and hand-wind movement – but reinterpreted to incorporate contemporary elements such as the Spring Drive movement and patterned dial. Combined with the 44GS case, the silver dial gives the SBGY011 an aesthetic that’s close to the vintage 44GS of 1967. In fact, it’s essentially a modern, more technically-capable version of the original, which also contained a hand-wind mechanical movement. In fact, the SBGY011 is only the second hand-wind Spring Drive watch with a 44GS case, and the first and only one that’s not a limited edition. The hand-wind movement matters because the 44GS case is exponentially more attractive when it’s thin; in this case it is only 10.5 mm high. In comparison, a typical automatic Spring Drive is around 13 mm thick. Notably, despite being a regul...
Quill & Pad
The 2022 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève is scheduled to begin at 6:30 pm Central European Time on Thursday the 10th of November. Follow the big night live on Quill & Pad.
Time+Tide
For me, Minase are one of the few brands who can beat Grand Seiko in their level of artful dials, finishing quality and ingenuity. In addition, their originality extends to their case design as well. Add in their reasonably low prices, and this Japanese brand is probably one of the best value options out there … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Minase 7 Windows Hakose Urushi collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Collaborative limited editions are nothing new to the industry. It would seem over the last few years we see one debut every month, and the trend is still going strong. But with so many hitting the market, it is more important than ever for all parties involved to realise something that is truly fresh that … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force P.03 for Collective looks to make high horology more casual appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Which watch would you wear on a mission to Mars?
Hodinkee
A sleeping giant of watchmaking is on the verge of waking up at LVMH.
Time+Tide
LeJour is one of those rare success stories of an extinct Swiss brand being revived with a modern catalogue, and they continue to move from strength to strength with the LeJour Brooklyn collection - putting some unique twists on much-loved elements from dress and field watches. If you’ve been looking for an interesting and reliable … ContinuedThe post The LeJour Brooklyn throws its hat in the ring for best affordable Datejust alternative appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
After rolling out the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar in black and then white ceramic – making them the first all-ceramic Royal Oaks – Audemars Piguet put new colours on hiatus, until now. The Le Brassus watchmaker has just unveiled the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar ref. 26579CS in blue ceramic, making it the first Royal Oak entirely in coloured ceramic (aside from black or white). Initial thoughts Though ceramic has long been a favoured case material at Audemars Piguet (AP), it is typically employed for certain components, usually the bezel, to create two-tone appearance. AP has rarely made entirely watches in ceramic until recently. Even now AP only has eight Royal Oak models entirely in ceramic, out of dozens of references in total. And of the eight, six are black ceramic. So the latest Royal Oak is special just because of the colour. Admittedly, the colour is not unique in watchmaking. And the all-blue aesthetic is certainly polarising. But an all-ceramic Royal Oak is always attractive in terms of look and feel, because the case and bracelet finishing is exemplary. More broadly, the electric blue Royal Oak perhaps captures the zeitgeist of contemporary watch collecting perfectly with its brash colour, unusual materials, and integrated bracelet – it is a watch of the times. It costs CHF129,000, making it more expensive than the equivalents in steel or titanium, but there’s nothing else quite like it, which helps make the price a bit more digestible. High-tech blue ...
Time+Tide
Motosports get a lot of love from the world of watches, from the smallest microbrand homage to Rolex sponsoring almost all of the Formula 1 Grands Prix. Sadly, one side of automotive expression that doesn’t get anywhere nearly as much recognition is motorcycling. Doing their bit to redress the balance, the Depancel Serie-R Cruiser taps … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Depancel Serie-R Cruiser draws high-octane inspiration from the world of motorcycling appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Having recently reopened Sincere Haute Horlogerie (SHH), a “concept” store dedicated to independent brands, Singapore retailer Sincere commissioned limited editions from several watchmakers to mark the event, including the Greubel Forsey Double Balancier Convexe in purple. Following that, SHH has unveiled another finely decorated time-only wristwatch, the Laurent Ferrier Square Micro-Rotor SHH Edition. With Breguet numerals on the front and a natural escapement on the back, the SHH Edition is classical but given a contemporary aesthetic with a gradient mint green. Initial thoughts A store with 19 brands on its premises, SHH certainly has a diversity of watchmaking on offer. But amongst its most technically accomplished time-only watches are the creation of Laurent Ferrier. Seemingly plain-vanilla on the front, the brand’s Micro-Rotor is tells a different story on the reverse. The movement revives Abraham-Louis Breguet’s escapement from two centuries ago, while the automatic winding mechanism is elaborately executed. It is a watch that is easily appreciated by collectors who appreciate history and chronometry. Like most collaborative editions, the SHH edition retains the flavour of the original, but with enough tweaks that it appeals to the target audience, namely watch enthusiasts who like classical design. While many of the dial details are familiar, they are combined in a coherent and restrained manner. The effect is subtle but significant. When I first encounte...
Quill & Pad
Halloween, a word contracted from "All Hallow's Eve," is a predominately American celebration whose traditions come from late nineteenth-century Celtic origins. And along comes a modern mechanical time-telling spider in celebration, the MB&F; Arachnophobia: a realistic-looking arachnid made of metal and other materials traditionally used in watchmaking. Look upon it if you dare!
Deployant
With the demise of Watchville, yes, it is being withdrawn as of tomorrow, October 31, 2022, we are now on Watchicity, a new but similar platform.
Time+Tide
Louis Erard is no stranger to collaboration, having released some of their most successful pieces in partnership with the likes of Massena LAB and legends like Alain Silberstein and Vianney Halter. Another on the long list of associates is Romaric André of seconde/seconde/, working together to produce a brilliant take on the brand’s regulator design, … ContinuedThe post Louis Horror and seconde/seconde/ reveal the spooky skeletons in their closets appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Glashütte brand recently introduced a new entry into their affordable Club family with the NOMOS Club Sport neomatik 37. While this line-up features some of the most affordable models that NOMOS offers, the Club Sport neomatik is a different beast, though its diminutive sizing and simple looks may not suggest so. Through a few … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Why the NOMOS Club Sport neomatik 37 puts versatility first appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Undoubtedly the most unusual wristwatch from A. Lange & Söhne – and perhaps the brand’s most intriguing – the Zeitwerk is digital but entirely mechanical. Thirteen years after the first model made its debut and became a landmark in modern watchmaking, Lange has just unveiled the all-new, second-generation Zeitwerk. Gently redesigned but substantially improved, the second-generation model brings the total number of Zeitwerk models to ten (totalling 17 references) from 2009 to now. What follows is a look at every single Zeitwerk reference, including rarely-seen limited editions and a little-known unique piece (save for the unique example never publicly announced by Lange). It’s intended to be be a clear and concise guide covering every single model, one that details the varied functions, decoration, and changes across variants. The latest-generation Zeitwerk movement, still recognisable thanks to the remontoir bridge A brief history Before we dive into the watches, it’s important to understand how the Zeitwerk came along and its significance in modern watchmaking. Like much else created by Lange, the Zeitwerk has its roots in historical watchmaking in Saxony. The Zeitwerk’s digital display takes its cues from the five-minute clock sitting over the stage in the Dresden’s Semper Opera. And like much else in historical Saxon watchmaking, the clock is related to A. Lange & Söhne. The clock maker behind the opera timekeeper, Johann Christian Friedrich Gutkaes,...
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