Hodinkee
Introducing: The Grand Seiko SBGJ273 GMT
A Japan-themed special colorway for Grand Seiko's Hi-Beat travel watch.
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Hodinkee
A Japan-themed special colorway for Grand Seiko's Hi-Beat travel watch.
Time+Tide
The Maurice Lacroix Aikon Skeleton Urban Tribe introduces even more complexity and depth At 39mm in diameter, it’s a comfortable fit for such a visually-loud watch The skeletonised dial artfully shows off the ML115S movement, based on a Sellita SW200 Maurice Lacroix aren’t afraid to get experimental, and the Urban Tribe is a key example … ContinuedThe post Maurice Lacroix Aikon Skeleton Urban Tribe appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet has unveiled a fresh rendition of the famed Royal Oak “Jumbo” with the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Titanium BMG ref. 16202XT. Featuring a smoked burgundy dial, this latest version is set apart by its materials – a titanium case complemented by a bulk metallic glass (BMG) bezel – that are the same as those of the unique ref. 15202XT created for Only Watch 2021. Initial thoughts While the classical steel “Jumbo” gets most of the attention, the most interesting version of the ref. 16202 in my view is the platinum model, mainly due to the smoked green dial. The platinum model has an appealing radial brushed finish on the dial that was exclusive to that variant, making it quite different from the usual tapisserie guilloche. It’s good to see the same dial finish on another model, and this time with an even more striking burgundy red dial. What sets the new “Jumbo” apart are the case materials: titanium and BMG. Though the materials are identical to the Only Watch edition, the finishing is different. The Only Watch edition was mostly sandblasted. This, on the other hand, has the conventional brushed finish of the Royal Oak. And of course the movements differ between the ref. 15202 and ref. 16202. Still, this remains a “Jumbo” is most respects – size, shape, and style. Yet, with its smoked dial and unusual case material, it becomes an interesting new watch. Whilst it will become part of the permanent collection, it will presumably be ...
Worn & Wound
Ever see a watch and just can’t get it out of your head? Of course you have – it’s a common side effect of the hobby. Sometimes, for reasons we can’t quite wrap our arms around, a watch becomes something we fixate on. It could be uncommonly beautiful, or genuinely unique, or some combination of the two. Or it could be for an entirely different reason altogether. The point is: some watches have a way of lingering in our brains long after we’ve first seen them, and like a pop song that gets stuck in your head, sometimes you just have to give yourself over to it. For Blake Buettner and Zach Kazan, few watches have come along in recent years that are more emblematic of this idea than the Bell & Ross BR 03-94 Multimeter. It made its debut, somewhat under the radar, during Watches & Wonders 2022, and ever since then has been an object of obsession, mystery, and genuine fascination. It’s come up on the podcast, inspired editorials, and has taken up space in our brains rent free for months. Recently, we finally were able to see one in the metal (actually, ceramic), so of course we wanted to document the experience on video. This strange watch, with a dial featuring a total of five timing scales in a layout that seems designed to intentionally make you think about “closing the rings” is without a doubt one of the weirdest new watches we’ve seen from a major brand in recent years. Is it a pilot’s watch? A doctor’s watch? A very manual health and fitness tra...
Worn & Wound
We know you’re out there having a blast on this long holiday weekend, but don’t forget our Labor Day Sale ends tonight at midnight. We’ve got some amazing deals this year including 10-25% off select watches and so many gifts with purchases. Need help deciding? Don’t forget we also have a new consultation service offering you a chance to work one on one with one of our staff to help you pick the perfect watch or accessory. Head here to see all of our sales befroe they’re official gone and we’ll highlight some of our favorite sales of the weekend below! We know you’re out there having a blast on this long holiday weekend, but don’t forget our Labor Day Sale ends tonight at midnight. We’ve got some amazing deals this year including 10-25% off select watches and so many gifts with purchases. Need help deciding? Don’t forget we also have a new consultation service offering you a chance to work one on one with one of our staff to help you pick the perfect watch or accessory. Head here to see all of our sales befroe they’re official gone and we’ll highlight some of our favorite sales of the weekend below! The post Last Chance! Labor Day Sales End Tonight appeared first on Worn & Wound.
SJX Watches
Following the recent introduction of scaled-down automatic models, the Tissot PRX lineup takes a decidedly nostalgic turn with the PRX Digital. A slightly more refined take on the digital wristwatch, the new PRX captures the future as seen from the late 1980s with a streamlined LCD display and integrated bracelet. Initial thoughts The PRX in all its flavours has proven popular thanks to a vintage-inspired design that caters perfectly to today’s taste for integrated bracelets. A retro-style quartz watch with an LCD screen, however, is unexpected but appealing in its thoughtful design that doesn’t try to do too much and is just right. For a mechanical-watch enthusiast, the PRX Digital is a diversion, but one that’s fun and affordable. On its face, the new PRX immediately evokes Casio’s lineup of digital watches on bracelets (namely the A171WEG-9AEF and A171WE-1AEF). The Japanese brand is clearly the market leader in affordable digital watches, but the PRX Digital is a step up in terms of branding and presentation, as opposed to Casio’s primarily utilitarian approach (though Casio’s upscale G-Shock models are another matter). At US$375 for steel models and US$75 more for the gold-plated variants, the PRX Digital is pricier than its Casio counterparts. This premium is significant, but justified in part by the slightly more upscale feel of the PRX and of course the “Swiss made” provenance. However, it’s worth noting Casio trumps Tissot in terms of tech: t...
Time+Tide
For as many watch enthusiasts as we have here, Australia is lacking somewhat when it comes to home-grown brands. Of course we have Bausele, Galvin, and the not-so-subtly-named Melbourne Watch Company, though none of these designs have much to offer in terms of Australian-inspired design traits. Nullarbor, this week’s feature on Micro Mondays, aims to … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Nullarbor Terrain is inspired by Australian nature appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
The first time Bhanu Chopra strapped a borrowed BR 03-92 Black Matte Ceramic on his wrist, he thought that it was the perfect Bell & Ross watch for him, checking all the boxes for the characteristics he expected from an aviation-style instrument watch. He bought one and it has been part of his core pilot’s watch collection ever since. This is why.
Time+Tide
Watch collectors love the hunt for their next watch, and auctions are a great place to find the next dream reference you desire. Sure, it can be intimidating at times, with high-profile lots going for exorbitant amounts of money, but these auctions typically have very large catalogues with hundreds of lots. For example, the upcoming … ContinuedThe post Sotheby’s Fine Watches Auction: Zach picks 5 lots to keep an eye on appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
For Geneva Watch Days 2023, Alpina has released two regular -production tribute versions of the tank-style Alpiner The Alpiner Heritage Carrée Automatic 140 Years offers vintage looks with modern appointments Two dial variants are available: two-tone silver (US and international), and black (international only) For Geneva Watch Days, Alpina is looking back with the release … ContinuedThe post The Alpina Alpiner Heritage Carrée Automatic 140 Years brings back classic contours in a modern package appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
The framed aventurine central dial of this bespoke Sartory Billard SB05 has a depth that allows us to easily imagine we are looking through a maze of galaxies toward the far edges of the universe. And framing that is a ring of meteorite, a true space material. What else makes this watch so unique?
Worn & Wound
What makes watches so expensive? It’s a question enthusiasts ask themselves at the beginning of their horological journeys, and later on, a question we find ourselves answering from curious friends and family. The answer comes down to options. Not all watches are powered by in-house movements, but some are. And if that’s what you’re into, companies will ask you to chip in for the research and development required to develop a new caliber. Likewise, not all watches go through extra testing to confirm accuracy to a few seconds per day. But if that level of reliability is a priority for you, plenty of brands are willing to provide that service for a fee. With enough rationalizing, it’s easy to see how even six digit price tags offer fair value. On the other end of the spectrum, if those options that increase MSRP don’t excite you, then maybe a one watch collection of a single $15 Casio F91W makes the most sense…but where’s the fun in that? For most of us, myself included, the sweet spot lies somewhere between the Casios and the Urwerks of the world. In the previous installment of Selling Point that Don’t Sell Me I explored what options excite me on my personal quest for quality on a budget. But enjoying watches at modest price points doesn’t mean I can’t still be picky. And so, for this installment of Selling Points that Don’t Sell Me, I’ve compiled my personal list of deal breakers and pet peeves. This list is less focused on keeping costs low, and mo...
Worn & Wound
The Ressence Type 3 collection welcomes a new member this week with the introduction of the serene Type 3 EE. The brand continues to work in subtle and interesting green hues, following up on the sage Type 8S (reviewed here) with this rich eucalyptus green dial. It’s a slightly unconventional execution within the more dramatic Type 3 collection, which we’ve only seen rendered in black and soft white up to this point. In person, the green is a perfect companion to the Type 3’s primary accent colors and rotating dial sets. Given the case it’s set within, that green is given an oil filled canvas for maximum impact. The Type 3 is one of two oil filled Ressence watches, along with the “world-proof” dive watch, the Type 5. The effect is remarkable in person, and one that I’ve always found core to the Ressence experience. The Type 3 EE features the eucalyptus green on both the font and back panel of the watch (hence the EE), and comes through brilliantly, as though it were painted directly on the crystal, thanks to the oil filled dial. The color is subtle but rich, somehow, and the colors used for the various displays have been desaturated enough to hit the same value scale as the green itself, so as not to create a distracting level of contrast. The Type 3 is on the maximalist side of Ressence, boasting the oil temperature gauge, a dial for the day of the week, and the date itself, on top of the hours, minutes, and seconds, of course. It all leads to a rather dra...
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: Since publishing this article, Doxa has announced an update to the SUB 300β Sharkhunter as a result of community feedback. The watch will now be offered in both date and no-date variants, with a rectangular marker replacing the date window in the latter. The Doxa SUB 300β Sharkhunter explores a streetwear aesthetic in … ContinuedThe post The Doxa SUB 300β Sharkhunter is a mean-looking diver with a plenty of street cred appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
American clockmaker Jacob Curtis recently completed Regulator Clock No. 2, a precision wall clock that is eminently traditional in style, make, and materials. Based in Staunton, Virginia, the 33-year-old graduated from the Lititz Watch Technicum in 2017 and now runs his own watch and clock repair workshop. Built as a commission from a client, Regulator Clock No. 2 is the first of a pair of clocks, with the second of the pair, No. 3, currently a work in progress. The clocks are actually descended from the school clock Mr Curtis completed during watchmaking school (pictured above), but the basis of his creations lies further back in history. The dial of the recently-finished No. 2 Mr Curtis took inspiration from the precision regulator clocks made in Germany during the late 19th- and early 20th centuries by firms like Strasser & Rohde and Riefler. Considered amongst the finest clocks of the genre, these regulator clocks were refined by fuss-free aesthetics and extremely high quality mechanics, characteristics that Mr Curtis sought to recreate with his own clocks. Initial thoughts Clocks don’t have the same popular appeal as watches, so clockmaking remains a niche subject, despite the faddish popularity of watches. Established brands ranging from Chanel to Patek Philippe, but there the brand arguably matters as much as the timepiece. On the other hand, independent clockmakers are less known but some do impressively fine work. Although I only have photos to go on, Mr Curtis...
Worn & Wound
A Week In Watches returns with a special episode, highlighting a bevy of new limited edition watches, a new, slightly small Christopher Ward The Twelve, and one guest appearance to help shed some light on his latest work. There’s something for everyone this week, from high end colorful chronographs in the new Zenith Defy Chromo II, to serene new US exclusives from Grand Seiko. Did we mention they were limited editions? Elsewhere, Christopher Ward has revealed their next steps for the The Twelve integrated bracelet sport watch, scaling it down to 36mm in diameter, and bringing some new dial colors to the table for good measure. Finally, we’ve got news from Brew, who released a new Metric this week with an automatic movement. We’re thrilled to welcome our friend Johnathan Farrer to the show to give us a first hand look at the new watch, and talk us through some of its distinguishing features. We love that the case wasn’t compromised to house the automatic movement, and that it still manages to keep its price point in check. We recorded this week’s episode just prior to news of Rolex purchasing Bucherer, but keep an eye out for our thoughts on that in an upcoming episode of the Worn & Wound podcast. This week’s episode is brought to you by the Worn & Wound+ Slack community. Worn & Wound+ represents our commitment to the community as we strive to build a better environment for enthusiasts of all stripes. Whether you’re into LED quartz watches from the ‘80s, mod...
Revolution
Wei & Constant are excited to unveil the highly anticipated Cartier Santos Dumont L “Les Flaneurs” Edition in steel, a New Special Order project that has been in the making for the past two years. This exclusive edition is a testament to the passion and dedication of the “Les Flaneurs” club, a community of Cartier […]
SJX Watches
Louis Erard gained a cult following collaborations with partners ranging from independent watchmakers to industrial designers. Now, the brand has teamed up with Switzerland-based watch influencer Amr Sindi, better known by his Instagram handle The Horophile. Their project, the Le Petite Seconde Metropolis, draws direct inspiration from Art Deco with its clean, distinctive dial. Initial thoughts Following their recent collaboration at Raketa, it comes as no surprise that Louis Erard chief Manuel Emch (who’s also helping run Raketa) and Mr Sindi have once again united their creative forces. While deviating from the contemporary design accented by Mr Sindi’s trademark purple that characterised his past creations, the trio of timepieces represent a unique interpretation of 1920s style. The watches evoke the era without being remakes of 1920s watches. They are distinctive yet unbranded, enabling the design to be conveyed clearly. Aside from the Art Deco hour numerals, there is absolutely no text on the dial whatsoever. In my view, this exemplifies how watch brands should design a retro watch, rather than simply generating a remake based on archives. While the dial is new, the rest of the watch is identical to the regular production model. That means a relatively thick case, which is the only major shortcoming of the design. The Le Petite Seconde Metropolis is priced at US$2,900, which is roughly in the same price range as the standard version of the model. Although the pr...
Time+Tide
If you're looking for a lightweight and reliable field watch, you can't go wrong with the Hamilton Khaki Field Titanium.The post Hamilton Khaki Field Titanium appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Four new Royal Oak and Royal Oak Offshore models have been announced, along with one unique piece that make up this latest collaboration. With a mixture of yellow gold, white gold and two-tone, all pieces are co-branded with Audemars Piguet and 1017 ALYX 9SM, Matthew Williams’ own brand, on the dial and rotor. Initial thoughts It’s nice to see collaborations like this taking place. When someone with the fashion and design pedigree of Matthew Williams enters the watch space, it is always worth taking note, as they are bound to bring a fresh and unique perspective. However, here it would seem he has just taken the designs he previously made with MAD Paris and asked Audemars Piguet to make them instead. The only visual difference being that the original ones had circular brushed dials, whereas these are vertically brushed. While the variety of case size and metal is appreciated, it is clear that these designs are not original with perhaps the only real difference being that the date window has been removed from the standard Royal Oak. Having the same aesthetic treatment applied across the time-only Royal Oak, chronograph Royal Oak and Offshore is nice to see, making this a cohesive collection. And the unique piece carries pleasing contrasts with the two-tone case and dark, PVD-coated dial giving a look that seems fitting for the streetwear-savvy Williams. There has been no communication on the price of these pieces, nor how many are set to be produced. All we can be sure ...
WatchAdvice
After searching for months to try one on, I finally got my hands on the new Tudor Black Bay, and when told I was able to purchase it, I bought it! So how has it been after a month or so on the wrist? Why I Bought It Liked the 5-Link bracelet aestheticWell proportioned case and dialNew T-fit clasp The Ownership Reality Wears well due to the slimmer caseNo date still, slight bug bear of mineAluminium bezel insert is more prone to scratches than ceramic Overall rating: 9 /10 Value for money: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build quality: 9/10 The Back Story The Black Bay Burgundy is now in its third generation or iteration of the watch. Originally released in 2012 to much acclaim, the watch was a great homage to the Tudor and Rolex dive watches of the 50’s. 10 years ago, it was released with an ETA movement and had the now much sought after “smiley” dial, with the lines of text at the bottom being curved making it look as thought the watch was smiling at you. And maybe it was?! This was then updated and launched at Baselworld in 2016 with the Tudor inhouse movement, the MT5602 that was COSC, the smiley removed and now with three lines of text saying it is Chronometer Certified. This is still the case with the current black and blue bezel variants on the love it or hate it faux riveted oyster style bracelet (which was done to mimic the pieces of the 1950’s). All three generations of Black Bay, from the Smiley to the new Master Chronometer However, at Watches an...
Time+Tide
After working for lofty brands such as Cartier, Baume & Mercier, and Zenith, Brice Jaunet needed to forge his own path. Briston was founded to be the culmination of his experience, as well as a blend of French and British styles to represent both his homeland and university days. Small watch brands can sometimes struggle … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Briston Streamliner Urban and its retro-modern inspiration appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Zenith’s colourful limited edition from last year has returned, this time in black ceramic too The white variant now features a subtly different colour gradation An El Primero movement and openworked dial provides plenty of visual drama There’s just something undeniably fun and alluring about a rainbow watch. There’s a sort of horseshoe effect with … ContinuedThe post The Zenith DEFY 21 Chroma II is another high-tech taste of the rainbow appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
When you’re contemplating buying a watch that is so clearly an homage to an established model, you have to be absolutely sure that you’re getting your money’s worth. There’s no shortage of watches which look like a Rolex just to make quick sales, but the Oceaneva Deep Marine Explorer Pro Diver GMT Automatic 1250M is … ContinuedThe post MICRO-MONDAYS: The Oceaneva Deep Marine Explorer Pro Diver GMT has a long name, and an impressive spec sheet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
No matter how tasteful your watch collection, no matter how stuffed your portfolio is with blue chip stocks like no-date Subs, classic Heuers, or the perfect Cartier Tank, there’s probably a black sheep lurking somewhere. Your questionable choices. Your dark secrets. The one that’s horribly out of fashion, objectively unattractive, or just plain bizarre. Be … ContinuedThe post Unholy Grail: the spaciest Speedy ever, the Omega Speedmaster ‘Teutonic’ appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
The dive watch genre is rife with great watches, and many stick to a tried and true formula that was first devised in the early ‘50s with the advent of recreational diving. It’s evolved a bit over the generations, but what made for a great dive watch then, largely still makes for a great dive watch today. Their broad popularity stretches far beyond the bounds of the actual diving community, as the features that make a great dive watch also happen to make them great everyday companions for those that prefer life on dry land. But that doesn’t mean they all have to abide by the same set of rules. In this Inside the Collection episode, I take a look at 3 dive watches that march to the beat of their own drum in some way, shape, or form, and eschew the established design codes of the genre. You’re probably familiar with one or two of these watches, as we’ve discussed two of them at length before (here, and here), but all three come together to say something important about my own collection, and how I view watches regardless of their label. The Omega Seamaster 300 reference 2231.50.00 seen here will be the subject of an upcoming Missed Review, in which we’ll further explore this era of the famous diver, and some of the ways the collection has diversified itself over the generation. This is watch that’s always found it’s own path, for better or worse, and not only does this specific reference represent something special within the collection, it represents somet...
Time+Tide
Glashütte Original’s most underrated watch is now chronometer-certified… But not by COSC Its Panorama Date brings a signature Glashütte twist to a marine chronometer aesthetic Glashütte pivots from their typical striping to a 3/4 bridgeplate with a frosted finish Glashütte Original’s really cooking at the moment, with the German brand having released some serious stunners … ContinuedThe post The Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer is exceedingly German and exceedingly dapper appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Grand Seiko studied the blade for these three new releases.
Hodinkee
For Only Watch 2023, a trio of watchmakers dramatically simplified one of the most complicated complications. Here's how they did it.
SJX Watches
Having signed on as the sponsor for the Swiss syndicate competing in the 2024 America’s Cup, Tudor recently unveiled the Pelagos FXD “Alinghi Red Bull Racing” and Pelagos FXD Chrono “Alinghi Red Bull Racing”. Both watches have carbon composite cases – a first for Tudor – while the FXD Chrono is an entirely new model. The two timepieces mark Tudor’s partnership with Alinghi Red Bull Racing, but are also official-issue watches for the team, so the crew of Alinghi are wearing either one of the two, both during training and as they challenge for the 37th America’s Cup taking place next year. Key takeaways Both feel more solid than expected for carbon-composite cases, which is reassuring. The carbon composite cases have the same design and detail as their equivalent metal counterparts. The blue and black colour combination is unusual and takes some getting used to, while the branding on the flange is not apparent on the wrist. The value proposition is outstanding as expected for Tudor. The chronograph has an edge in terms of appeal due to its slightly better value proposition as well as the visual appeal of the complication matched with the Pelagos design. Pelagos FXD Chrono (left), and Pelagos FXD Initial thoughts Tudor watches usually look much as they do in photos, but the two Alinghi watches look quite different, and much better, in real life, particular in terms of dial colour. The dial colour appears purplish in the stock images, but it’s a dark blue ...
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