Revolution
Alternative Aesthetic
The origins and recent interpretations of regulator dial watches.
Results for WOSTEP (Watchmakers of Switzerland Training and Educational Program)
40,038 articles · 236 videos found · page 824 of 1343
Revolution
SJX Watches
Up Close: Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5057G “Cortina Watch 50th Anniversary”
Conceived for the jubilee of Singapore-based retailer Cortina Watch, the Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5057G-010 is a throwback to the nineties in both size and size, but given a contemporary flavour with a dial in smoked grey. In fact, it is a remake of the original model, the ref. 5057R that was in rose gold. Interestingly, the reference was specifically created for Cortina’s 25th anniversary in 1997, giving the ref. 5057 the distinction of being a reference unique to a retailer. Initial thoughts Though it’s small by modern standards – it’s a bit over 36 mm in diameter – the ref. 5057G instantly stands out with its nineties style. The triple-row hobnail bezel and straight lugs instantly evoke Patek Philippe’s aesthetic of that decade. They set the ref. 5057G apart from the brand’s current offerings that have a more modern style. I like Patek Philippe’s style of that era, so I like the ref. 5057G. With the wide hobnail bezel, it’s a bit fancier than it should be, but that’s the appeal. And the bezel is the very feature that gives the watch presence. It catches the light well and is essentially “bling” for an otherwise conservative design. At the same time, the ref. 5057G is more attractive than the original model in rose gold, which lacked contrast due to its white-on-rose gold palette. By today’s standards the original is old fashioned. The ref. 5057R of 1997 that was created for Cortina’s 25th anniversary and also a limited edition of 100 wat...
Quill & Pad
Ineichen Auction ‘La Vie en Rose’ On March 12, 2022: 6 Unusual Picks From 40 Pink Gold Timepieces
Ineichen Auctioneers’ first auction of 2022, aptly entitled “La Vie en Rose,” takes place in Zurich and online on March 12, 2022. As the name of this auction professes, all 40 of the watches offered are encased in pink – “rose” – gold. Here, Elizabeth Doerr highlights five of the less “mainstream” independent offerings and one rarity from an established brand that will certainly interest connoisseurs.
Time+Tide
The new Glashütte Original SeaQ Panorama Date Reed Green delivers more than your typical diver
The diver’s category, pun alert, is already saturated in the watch marketplace. Many of their design cues are quite fixed, as in order to be appealing, as well as meet the demands of the segment, they have to offer certain visual cues and functionality. But, leave it to the Germans to engineer a diver that … ContinuedThe post The new Glashütte Original SeaQ Panorama Date Reed Green delivers more than your typical diver appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
The Watch Whisperer: Terence Low on The Collector’s View
We caught up with Terence Low, a Deployant friend and Singaporean watch collector and lover of all things related to horology.
Time+Tide
The Ming 22.01 GMT may be your best shot at getting your hands on this hot independent
I’m going to be honest with you. The appeal of independent watch brands has grown in my day-to-day involvement with this hobby. The chance of owning something unique, with a recognizable design language and quality construction gets harder and harder to say no to. Yet, with these brands currently at the forefront of watchmaking, the … ContinuedThe post The Ming 22.01 GMT may be your best shot at getting your hands on this hot independent appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
WatchAdvice
Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon Original 40mm Hands-on Review
What we like: Great looking watch with solid engineeringExcellent fit and finishComfortable on the wrist What we didn’t : Crown guard may feel fiddly for day-to-day useSharpish edges on the claspNot the easiest watch to change straps Overall rating: 8.125 /10 Value for money: 7.5/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 8/10 Build quality: 8.5/10 First things first. Let’s all get our minds out of the gutter and leave the crude, juvenile schoolyard jokes behind. We’re better than that. Aren’t we? Yes, I get that jokes about balls are just too easy and we should all rise above it and move on to more sophisticated humour. Probably. Ball watches may not be front of mind for the vast majority of us considering a watch purchase, but it really shouldn’t be overlooked… once you get past the name… Yes, I know what I typed just in the previous paragraph. But it’s just too easy. As the size of your balls, all the best quality of the watches are hidden, away from prying eyes. But once you dive deeper you’ll see that perhaps these inner qualities are worth a second glance. Or three. To be honest, much like the rest of you, I’ve not given the Balls a second glance. Even though I’ve known about the brand for a long time, the only thing that I knew about them was their glow-in-the-dark capabilities, thanks to their tritium gas tube technology. Other than that, to me, they were just another brand utilising reliable workhorse movements from ETA/sellita, but not much else stood o...
Deployant
The new Omega Seamaster Ultra Deep - a technical discourse
Omega released a series of watches yesterday in their Omega Watch Days show. We attended the conference online, and here is our top pick from the watches released – the Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep. A very special watch, challenging the depths of the oceans where no watch has gone to before. Press Release informationRead More
SJX Watches
Recommended Reading: A Guide to the F. P. Journe “Tourbillon Nouveau”
F.P. Journe’s second-generation Tourbillon Souverain, the” Tourbillon Nouveau” or “TN”, was the longest-lived iteration of his first wristwatch model. Produced for 15 years from 2003 to 2018, the TN was replaced in 2019 by the Tourbillon Souverain Vertical (“TV” for short), which was launched to mark the 20th anniversary of Francois-Paul Journe’s first tourbillon wristwatch. Though the first-generation Tourbillon Remontoir d’Egalite and second-generation TN were fundamentally identical – both combined the tourbillon with a constant force mechanism – the TN brought with it several improvements. Most notably, the TN marked F.P. Journe’s transition from brass to 18k red gold for its movement plates and bridges – an impressive breakthrough at the time. The Tourbillon Souverain Regency with a hand-engraved dial The development of the TN along with its various iterations have been detailed in The Tourbillon Nouveau Collector’s Guide by Shawn Mehta, founder of independent watchmaking merchant Watch4moi. Relying on information from F.P. Journe itself, Mr Mehta explains the differences between the first- and second-generation tourbillons before moving on to production numbers and variants. He estimates only 750-850 examples of the TN were produced over its 15-year production run, most of them in the standard catalogue variations. But in his opinion, the rarest standard configuration is likely the version with both the dial and case in rose gold. The ...
SJX Watches
Yosuke Sekiguchi Debuts with the Primevère Wristwatch
The latest watchmaker to strike out on his own as a one-man operation is Yosuke Sekiguchi, a Japanese watchmaker who has spent his entire career in Switzerland. Based in Le Locle, Mr Sekiguchi spent several years at well-known complications specialists before starting on his namesake brand. His debut watch is the Primevère, a wristwatch that is uncompromising in its adherence to tradition, both in style and substance. Powered by a finely finished movement, the Primevère was inspired by the 19th century “Le Locle” style ebauche that LeCoultre supplied to several brands, most notably Jules Jurgensen. In fact, Mr Sekiguchi modelled the Primevère on an 1871 Jurgensen pocket watch that he restored and then re-cased into a wristwatch. Initial thoughts Mr Sekiguchi is one of several Japanese watchmakers working in Switzerland. Like a few of his compatriots, Mr Sekiguchi’s background is in complications and restoration. His reverence for high-quality Vallee de Joux movements of the 19th century is equally obvious in the eminently traditional layout of the movement. Mr Sekiguchi has done such a good job of recreating the original that the movement is difficult to distinguish from a 19th century calibre in both aesthetics and finishing at a distance. But up close the Mr Sekiguchi’s movement reveals a higher level of finishing and decorative extras than a 19th century original, which were often robust and workmanlike – the very qualities that drew Mr Sekiguchi to the...
Time+Tide
How working for Time+Tide has changed my passion for watches
When I was about a year into teaching myself electric guitar in high school, I couldn’t dream of a better job than working in a music store. To be surrounded by a huge array of instruments that I would usually be staring at online, tinkering with electronics and fixing vintage gear just sounded like pure … ContinuedThe post How working for Time+Tide has changed my passion for watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
EDITOR’S PICK: 5 things that separate fine from very fine watchmaking (apart from the price tags)
Editor’s note: They’re the questions we all ask ourselves when contemplating a new mechanical watch: is it worth it? Is that price-tag truly justified? Here’s Justin’s excellent piece offers some pointers on what to look for and what separates fine from very fine watchmaking. It’s a question many of us in the industry get on a … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: 5 things that separate fine from very fine watchmaking (apart from the price tags) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Panerai Luminor is a tool watch with heavyweight punch
Welcome to The Icons, a series where we take a horological deep dive into the most legendary watches of all time. We’ll delve into the story behind the watch, its evolution over the years, famous (and infamous) wearers, the classic references, and the contemporary versions you should be checking out. Introduction: The Panerai Luminor When … ContinuedThe post The Panerai Luminor is a tool watch with heavyweight punch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Kross Studio Introduces the Batman Tourbillon
A start-up that focuses on design and watchmaking, Kross Studio was founded in 2020 but has already rolled out several pop culture-themed watches, including a desk clock in the form of the Batmobile from 1989’s Batman as well as a tourbillon wristwatch modelled the Death Star from Star Wars. Timed to debut just before the premiere of the latest Batman movie, the Batman Tourbillon once again relies on the central tourbillon movement that Kross has used in its past editions, but restyles the tourbillon cage to resemble the “Bat Signal” searchlight. Initial thoughts As was the case with Kross’ earlier watches, the Batman Tourbillon excels in terms of design. Though the brand has launched different editions with the same case and movement, the Batman watch is unique in style and theme. The tourbillon cage, for instance, has been transformed into a distress signal made famous by the “Caped Crusader”. And while the earlier Death Star Tourbillon was equipped with conventional hands, the Batman watch does away with traditional hands, rendering the it much more futuristic. That said, the Batman theme gets in the way of the movement. The Bat Signal frame that sits over the tourbillon obscures an otherwise interesting, oversized central tourbillon. This compromise would be more acceptable if the cage was more figurative and decorative as on the Death Star Tourbillon – where the cage is shaped like the titular planetary laser – which would have made the dial more aes...
Quill & Pad
Silence Is Complicity: How The #WatchFam Is Standing Behind Ukraine
Over the last few days, Dan-Andrei Kluska has watched the news in horror. He has lost sleep, he has cried a lot, and he feels that he has been paralyzed by the eruption of war in Europe. After the first shock wave passed and his tears dried, he started to think about the future and was sincerely fearful because a nuclear war would wipe out humanity as we know it. Here he challenges us all to do something (and some have answered the call).
Time+Tide
The Collector’s Crossroads: Should I buy now or wait?
It’s that time of year. As watch journalists, our inboxes start getting inundated with press releases and embargo dates. New collections are created while others are retired with one of the biggest watch fairs of the year around the corner. Yet as crazy as this time is for us, as a collector, it’s probably one … ContinuedThe post The Collector’s Crossroads: Should I buy now or wait? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Who Dares Wins: Rolex teamed up with the SAS to create this unique Explorer II. Now you can buy it…
“This watch has generated more interest than any watch we’ve had in stock for a long, long time,” says Tom Jenkinson, a senior watch sales consultant for Xupes, the online site for watches and other collectibles. “It was originally a P.O.A piece, but we were just getting a deluge of inquiries on it to the … ContinuedThe post Who Dares Wins: Rolex teamed up with the SAS to create this unique Explorer II. Now you can buy it… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Hands-On: Hermès Arceau Space Derby
Unveiled last year as part of Hermes’ annual collection of metiers d’art watches, the Arceau Space Derby is typical Hermes with its equestrian motif, but also strikingly different since the dial depicts a jockey riding a robot horse past planets and stars. The Space Derby is actually a pair of watches, a smaller one for ladies with the dial in pink opaline glass, and a larger model for men with an aventurine glass dial that is detailed below. But both have a similar motif on the dial that was taken from an Hermes scarf designed by French filmmaker and cartoonist Ugo Bienvenu. The larger, 41 mm Space Derby Initial thoughts Hermes adapts many of its most famous scarves for metiers d’art watches. Most of the resulting dials are whimsical and subtle in a manner typical of the brand. And Hermes does more of such watches, both in terms of range as well as number, than its immediate rivals Louis Vuitton and Chanel. The diversity of its offerings with artisanal dials is impressive in both style and technique – though horses, big cats, and birds are recurring themes – but even so the Space Derby is unique. While the theme of the Space Derby is still equestrian, it is has a pop art aspect that sets it apart from the usual metiers d’art fare from Hermes. So it’s still recognisably an Hermes watches, but a bit more funky and very much different. But the Space Derby is more than just a fancy dial. As is increasingly the case with fashion and leather goods brands, it is eq...
Time+Tide
WATCH ANALYTICS WEDNESDAYS: Is the A. Lange & Söhne Datograph seriously undervalued?
Editor’s Note: We recently partnered with @watchanalytics to crunch the numbers and dig into the horological market trends and value fluctuations for the references that matter. Last time, we delved into how Omega Speedmaster Limited Editions are rocketing in value. Today we are going to dive into the market status of first generation A. Lange & … ContinuedThe post WATCH ANALYTICS WEDNESDAYS: Is the A. Lange & Söhne Datograph seriously undervalued? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Available in the shop: The sun-kissed, seductive Reservoir × Revolution Hydrosphere Bronze ‘Maldives Edition’
The retrograde Reservoir × Revolution Hydrosphere Bronze’ Maldives Edition’ is a breath of fresh air in a world of stuffy dive watches. Add bronze and golden tones to the already unusual configuration and that fresh air takes on a distinctly tropical flavour.
SJX Watches
Exhibition: Early Lange Wristwatches at Phillips Perpetual in London
The watch boutique arm of auctioneer Phillips, London-based Perpetual is staging an exhibition of early A. Lange & Söhne wristwatches in its Berkeley Square showroom for a week starting March 9, 2022. Made in Germany, a Tribute to the Early Lange 1 and Datograph comprises 20 examples of Lange’s best-known watches from the late 1990s to the early 2000s, including limited editions that rarely emerge publicly, making it an great opportunity for the brand’s enthusiasts to see special watches and even “grails” in the metal, like the extravagant Lange 1A. Pillars of the brand Arguably the most important Lange models, at least in the brand’s first two decades, are the Lange 1 and Datograph. Both were seminal when they each made their debuts in 1994 and 1999 respectively, helping to put the brand on the map. And because early days of the German watchmaker saw it debut a large number of small-run limited editions, the variety of watches from that period is particularly interesting. Lange 1A The rise in interest that Lange has recently enjoyed means many of the brand’s early or unusual watches are being rediscovered. As a result, the exhibition is perfectly timed. It focuses on the two landmark models, although the line up also includes other intriguing watches like the rare solid-back Saxonia. One of the best examples of the Lange 1 on show is the ref. 101.027X, which has a handsome blue-on-silver palette that served as the inspiration for the Lange 1 25th annivers...
Revolution
Ineichen Auctioneers ‘La Vie en Rose’ Auction
Ineichen announces their first watch auction of 2022, to be held on March 12, in Zurich and online.
Time+Tide
IN-DEPTH: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Curve GMT Flying Tourbillon
The average person thinking of Louis Vuitton will have a lot of inspiration from which to draw their impressions. Between the $4000 handbags, $700 T-shirts, and even $1000 bucket hats, the image that Louis Vuitton paints is a surprisingly broad spectrum of wealth across high-fashion and streetwear. Leather goods, fragrances, clothing and eyewear are just … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Curve GMT Flying Tourbillon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Review: IWC Portugieser Minute Repeater Ref. IW5242-02. Old but gold.
The year 1995 was as eventful as it gets. It was the year the first Toy Story movie was released, the year Operation Desert Storm officially ended, and it was the last time AFC Ajax won the UEFA Champions League. It also marked the debut of a classic IWC timepiece: the original Portugieser Minute RepeaterRead More
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Seiko SLA055J1 Save The Ocean Limited Edition
Seiko’s Save The Ocean series has been a favourite among the brand’s fans for years, with the charitable contributions and environmental associations delivering a host of fun new dial variations of established watches. While those Save The Ocean editions have definitely been a great option for anyone looking for something a little more unique straight … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Seiko SLA055J1 Save The Ocean Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Introducing The Top Time Triumph Speed Twin Owners’ Limited Edition
A chronograph with a freewheeling 1960s café racer spirit. It was a huge hit with an in-crowd of men and women, and it is set to be so again in icy blue style.
Time+Tide
Time flies: The best travel watches from the last 12 months
What’s travel, I hear you ask? Believe it or not, there’s an activity which means you can leave your home, and go somewhere else! Sadly, that’s an opportunity that many of us have been denied over the last couple of years due to Covid, but now the world is open again, it’s time to dust … ContinuedThe post Time flies: The best travel watches from the last 12 months appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Five takeaways from my time with the Tutima M2 Seven Seas S
There are multiple categories of watches out there. Dress, casual, chronograph, pilot; each with their own look and prerequisite capabilities. And with these options on the table, you’ll find many collectors simply pick one and begin scouring the internet for a brand’s interpretation of the category. It’s at this point that a good brand displays … ContinuedThe post Five takeaways from my time with the Tutima M2 Seven Seas S appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Vanessa Redgrave’s Rolex Reference 5513 Submariner With Explorer Dial: Should It Be The Female ‘Paul Newman’ Daytona? - Reprise
Are there special vintage watch dial variations named after notable women in a vein similar to that of the Paul Newman Rolex Daytona? Nick Gould was wondering just that and researched. Finding a photo of Vanessa Redgrave wearing a Rolex Submariner Reference 5513 with "Explorer" dial in 1966, he ruefully opines that this rare model would sound so much cooler as the Rolex "Vanessa Redgrave" Submariner rather than what collectors call it now: Rolex Reference 5513 Submariner with Explorer dial.
Time+Tide
How Furlan Marri went from Kickstarter to GPHG winner in seven months
What did you achieve during the pandemic? For most of us, when we look back at the last couple of years of lockdowns and sabotaged plans, the answer to that question is “precious little”. Unless, of course, you count gaining 5kg, drinking reckless amounts of gin and becoming pathetically addicted to Wordle. Andrea Furlan, however, … ContinuedThe post How Furlan Marri went from Kickstarter to GPHG winner in seven months appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.