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Collector’s Guide: A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Oct 28, 2022

Collector’s Guide: A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk

Undoubtedly the most unusual wristwatch from A. Lange & Söhne – and perhaps the brand’s most intriguing – the Zeitwerk is digital but entirely mechanical. Thirteen years after the first model made its debut and became a landmark in modern watchmaking, Lange has just unveiled the all-new, second-generation Zeitwerk. Gently redesigned but substantially improved, the second-generation model brings the total number of Zeitwerk models to ten (totalling 17 references) from 2009 to now. What follows is a look at every single Zeitwerk reference, including rarely-seen limited editions and a little-known unique piece (save for the unique example never publicly announced by Lange). It’s intended to be be a clear and concise guide covering every single model, one that details the varied functions, decoration, and changes across variants. The latest-generation Zeitwerk movement, still recognisable thanks to the remontoir bridge A brief history Before we dive into the watches, it’s important to understand how the Zeitwerk came along and its significance in modern watchmaking. Like much else created by Lange, the Zeitwerk has its roots in historical watchmaking in Saxony. The Zeitwerk’s digital display takes its cues from the five-minute clock sitting over the stage in the Dresden’s Semper Opera. And like much else in historical Saxon watchmaking, the clock is related to A. Lange & Söhne. The clock maker behind the opera timekeeper, Johann Christian Friedrich Gutkaes,...

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: WatchTime, Windup, a chiming Speedy and Accutron’s 62nd birthday Time+Tide
Accutron s 62nd birthday Watch Oct 28, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: WatchTime, Windup, a chiming Speedy and Accutron’s 62nd birthday

Watch collectors from far and wide gathered in New York City this week for an itinerary packed with watch-related events. You had the RedBar Global Meetup, WatchTime NY, and Worn & Wound Windup fairs all jam-packed into the space of seven days – giving watch lovers in the area lots to do. It may have … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: WatchTime, Windup, a chiming Speedy and Accutron’s 62nd birthday appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Baltic Introduces the MR01 “Perpétuel” SJX Watches
Baltic Introduces Oct 27, 2022

Baltic Introduces the MR01 “Perpétuel”

Despite being just two years old, Dubai-based retailer Perpétuel has unveiled a string of its own special editions, starting with Baltic in 2020, the year Perpétuel was founded. The retailer has once again turned to the French brand for the third collaborative edition between the two. This time it’s a twist on Baltic’s best-selling micro-rotor wristwatch, the MR01. As is expected, the MR01 “Perpétuel” has all the elements associated with the Arabian Gulf, namely Eastern-Arabic numerals on a green dial. Initial thoughts The MR01 is already appealing in its original iteration, especially considering the price, but the Perpétuel edition includes several details that makes it that much more special. Though a green dial with Eastern-Arabic numerals is no longer novel, it’s uncommon on a watch as affordable as the MR01. The Perpétuel edition brings these design elements to new or young enthusiasts, or anyone on a budget really, a laudable achievement. But it’s also limited unfortunately. Though the run is far more generous than past editions – this is limited to 300 – the affordability means it will have a large audience. Everything all at once The MR01 manages to pack several desirable, old-school design elements into a compact, 36 mm package. Yet it remains impressively clean and fuss free. For instance, the movement is a micro-rotor automatic made by the Hangzhou Watch Factory (we explained the calibre in our MR01 review), hence the affordability. This ...

Exhibition: ‘Spring Sprang Sprung’ in Singapore SJX Watches
Atelier Wen Oct 27, 2022

Exhibition: ‘Spring Sprang Sprung’ in Singapore

An exhibition focused on “microbrands”, Spring Sprang Sprung takes place in Singapore from October 28-30, 2022. Happening at XM Studio, a workshop best known for its hand-made comic figurines, the exhibition encompasses 21 watch brands and a leather goods maker. The exhibition was the brainchild of local retailer Red Army Watches (RAW) and Singapore-based micro brand Feynman Timekeepers. Exhibiting brands include Havaan Tuvali, Vario, and Atelier Wen. The flagship wristwatch from Feynman with a hand-made cloisonné enamel dial Dive watches in bronze from Zelos A city state that boasts a high density of high-end watch collectors, Singapore also has a thriving community of enthusiasts who cherish fun and inexpensive timepieces. In fact, several micro brands have emerged from Singapore, such as Feynman and Zelos. The appreciation of micro brands has been developed in large part by RAW, long a proponent of affordable watchmaking. With stores in Singapore, Malaysia, and Brunei, RAW carries a range of micro brands, including several that are showing at Spring Sprang Sprung. It was RAW founder Sugiharto Kusumadi and Yong Keong Lim, the founder of Feymann, who provided the impetus for the exhibition. The Vario Popeye jumping hour The Atelier Wen Perception with a hand-made guilloche dial Spring Sprang Sprung takes place October 28-30 at XM Studios in Singapore. It is open to public daily from 11:00 am-6:00 pm, except for Sunday when it closes at 5:00 pm. Admission is fre...

The Opera Godfather 50th Anniversary from Jacob & Co is a horological offer you can’t refuse Time+Tide
Jacob & Co Oct 27, 2022

The Opera Godfather 50th Anniversary from Jacob & Co is a horological offer you can’t refuse

Did you know the severed horse’s head in the famous scene from The Godfather was real? Or that Warren Beatty, Dustin Hoffman, Jack Nicholson and Robert DeNiro were all turned down for the role of Michael Corleone? Or that the classic line: “Leave the gun. Take the cannoli,” uttered by capo Peter Clemenza was actually improvised? … ContinuedThe post The Opera Godfather 50th Anniversary from Jacob & Co is a horological offer you can’t refuse appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Habring2 Introduces the Erwin ‘THC School Piece’ SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Calatrava refs 565 Oct 26, 2022

Habring2 Introduces the Erwin ‘THC School Piece’

An Austrian independent watchmaker specialising in honest and appealing watches, Habring² has just unveiled its latest jumping-seconds wristwatch, the Erwin “THC School Piece”. Based on the brand’s signature time-only watch, the School Piece is fitted with a two-tone dial that features familiar elements combined in an unusual manner. It sports ever-popular olive green, but only for the chapter ring that features Breguet numerals. Having a 1930s vibe thanks to the dial, the School Piece was unsurprisingly born of a request by a group of Asian collectors with an eye for vintage wristwatches. Initial thoughts Neither overly vintage nor too modern, the School Piece is arguably just right. The design blends details that are common but manages to do so at a coherent manner, resulting in something different that stands out from most Habring² creations – a feat considering the that most of the brand’s limited runs are vintage-inspired watches. The styling should allow the School Piece will speak to enthusiasts across the collecting spectrum. Vintage-watch enthusiasts will appreciate the hints of the Patek Philippe Calatrava refs. 565 and ref. 570. While those who follow modern watchmaking will like the two-tone dial with a prominent green ring that gives the dial more flair than the typical vintage-style watch. And then there are the Breguet numerals that almost everyone likes. While the School Piece is certainly appealing, there are arguably too many iterations of...

How Jacob & Co made hysterical exuberance their stock in trade (before adding extra diamonds…) Time+Tide
Jacob & Co made hysterical exuberance their Oct 26, 2022

How Jacob & Co made hysterical exuberance their stock in trade (before adding extra diamonds…)

Jacob & Co don’t really make watches. What they specialise in is wrist-bound manifestations of the American Dream. The brand’s watches tend to be buried alive in diamonds or tricked out in mind-boggling complications. Sometimes they combine both at the same time. You can’t describe them as mere status symbols. They’re more like flashing neon … ContinuedThe post How Jacob & Co made hysterical exuberance their stock in trade (before adding extra diamonds…) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro hits the goldilocks size Time+Tide
Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro hits Oct 26, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro hits the goldilocks size

There’s really nothing else like the look of a Panerai, such is its visual singularity. A long-time favourite of Hollywood (and real-life) tough guys, it’s a legend among those whose default wristwear leans hard into “bold statement”. In fact, I’d say it’s nearly as recognisable as a Submariner, if less ubiquitous, and frankly, one of … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro hits the goldilocks size appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

So you can’t get a MoonSwatch. Here are 5 alternatives… Time+Tide
Oct 25, 2022

So you can’t get a MoonSwatch. Here are 5 alternatives…

I do have to start this segment by admitting that no other watch out there quite matches what the MoonSwatch can offer. It’s a truly unique proposition, and the demand for one does not surprise me whatsoever. But this isn’t about the MoonSwatch. Given that the Swatch Group has quietly backtracked on their promise of … ContinuedThe post So you can’t get a MoonSwatch. Here are 5 alternatives… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Duoface Calendar Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Duoface Calendar Oct 25, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Duoface Calendar

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute was a phenomenal success. Whether that was due to the influx of luscious, colourful dials or the honouring of its 1930s heritage, there was just something about those models that struck a chord with modern audiences. Now, instead of placing safe bets and expanding their colour ranges further, Jaeger-LeCoultre have reached … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Duoface Calendar appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Panerai Introduces the Luminor Marina PAM01501 “Kids Horizon” SJX Watches
Panerai Introduces Oct 24, 2022

Panerai Introduces the Luminor Marina PAM01501 “Kids Horizon”

Historically a maker of military dive watches, Panerai has since evolved into a maker of distinctively-styled sports watches encompassing complications and precious metal cases. The watchmaker has just revealed an all-gold version of its trademark dive watch as a unique piece conceived for a good cause and a special occasion, the Luminor Marina Automatic PAM01501. Engraved to indicate it’s a one-off creation, something Panerai rarely does, the PAM01501 will go under the hammer during the upcoming charity gala dinner for Kidz Horizon Appeal, a Singapore-based charity that funds medical treatment for children from disadvantaged backgrounds, which will take place on October 29, 2022. The PAM01501 is engraved with “1/1” on the back Initial thoughts The PAM01501 is a metallic olive green – certainly a familiar colour. But keep in mind Panerai was one of the first brand to utilise green as a dial colour, most famously for the Submersible Bronzo a decade ago. This happened well before the current fad for green dials, so Panerai is sticking to historical precedent rather than jumping on the bandwagon. In fact, the green dial and rose gold case brings to mind the original Bronzo, which had a similar palette (before it developed a patina). But the crucial point is that the PAM01501 distinguishes itself by being a unique piece, and one for a good cause no less. For the kids Founded in 2004, Kidz Horizon Appeal (KHA) is a Singapore charity that supports children with chroni...

Time+Tide book club: Ice Cold: A Hip-Hop Jewelry History Time+Tide
Oct 24, 2022

Time+Tide book club: Ice Cold: A Hip-Hop Jewelry History

For fans of hip-hop and streetwear, there’s a lavish new coffee table book just for you. More than simply documenting flash jewellery, Ice Cold: A Hip-Hop Jewelry History drills down into the cultural significance of bling within streetwear culture. And a big part of that culture is the universe of timepieces that the musical luminaries … ContinuedThe post Time+Tide book club: Ice Cold: A Hip-Hop Jewelry History appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Second-Generation (Refs. 142.025 and 142.031) SJX Watches
Ming 13 years after Oct 24, 2022

Up Close: A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Second-Generation (Refs. 142.025 and 142.031)

A certainty after the Zeitwerk Date of 2019 and last year’s Zeitwerk Honeygold Lumen, the second-generation A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk is finally here. As expected, the new Zeitwerk is a gentle evolution from the original in terms of design, but a substantial step forward in technical terms. Known as the ref. 142.025 in platinum and ref. 142.031 in pink gold, the new Zeitwerk is powered by the same revamped movement L043 movement found in the Date and Lumen. As a result, it has all of same upgrades, namely a thinner movement that boasts a quickset corrector for the hours as well as a 72-hour power reserve. The new Zeitwerk in pink gold And the second-generation L043.6 Initial thoughts In a technical sense, the new Zeitwerk is a superior watch, as it should be, coming 13 years after the original. Aesthetically, it remains largely unchanged save for a few nips and tucks, leaving the new model instantly recognisable as a Zeitwerk. In fact, most would be hard pressed to tell the difference between the two generations from across a room. The second generation (left) and its predecessor In the metal the new Zeitwerk looks and feels very much like the original upon initial examination. But the differences quickly become obvious, even though some, like the enlarged seconds, are subtle enough they are difficult to pinpoint. Other tweaks are easier to spot, like the red marking on the power reserve scale. Personally I’m not a fan of the red accent since it creates a peculiar f...

MICRO MONDAYS: The GANE Type D is deceptively simple yet utterly distinctive Time+Tide
Oct 24, 2022

MICRO MONDAYS: The GANE Type D is deceptively simple yet utterly distinctive

Designing a new watch from the ground up is always going to be a difficult task, given that there’s over a century’s worth of designs with which to compete. One way of approaching this challenge is to draw inspiration from an external source, whether that’s from nature, history, industry, or whatever really. For Ray Pee, … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The GANE Type D is deceptively simple yet utterly distinctive appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword: #24 “Nautilus Knowledge” Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Oct 22, 2022

Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword: #24 “Nautilus Knowledge”

With the recent drop of novelties from Patek Philippe and the unveiling of the successor to the Nautilus ref. 5711: the 5811/1G, we decided now is the perfect time for a bit of Nautilus trivia courtesy of the Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword. See how you fare below.The post Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword: #24 “Nautilus Knowledge” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Bell & Ross Introduces the BR-X5 Powered by Kenissi SJX Watches
Bell & Ross Introduces Oct 22, 2022

Bell & Ross Introduces the BR-X5 Powered by Kenissi

Historically reliant on ETA and Sellita, Bell & Ross is employing Kenissi movements for the first time in the BR-X5. Though evidently evolved from the BR05, the BR-X5 is endowed with a more complex, modular case. That, in addition to the high-spec Kenissi movement, means the BR-X5 is the new flagship sports watch for Bell & Ross (B&R;). Initial thoughts The BR-X5 is very much typical B&R; in terms of aesthetics with its squarish bezel secured by screws and legible dial. In fact, it is easy to mistake this for the BR05 at a distance, but up close it is clear that the BR-X5 is a big step up in terms of quality. The Kenissi movement certainly outperforms the ETA and Sellita calibres found in the BR05, while the case has a more complex construction that gives it more versatility in terms of materials. The BR-X5 is making its debut with a model entirely in steel as well as a fancier version in titanium and carbon that best illustrates the modular, layered construction of the case The improved case and movement, however, come at a price. The BR-X5 costs about 50% more than the equivalent BR05, a premium that is easily justified by the technical improvements. However, relative to the rest of the B&R; line-up the BR-X5 is pricey for a time-only watch, which means it will likely only make sense for those who appreciate and understand the tangible qualities of the watch over its less expensive siblings in the B&R; catalogue. Familiar design, new mechanics The centrepiece of the BR-X5 is...