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Quill & Pad
American swimmer Michael Phelps is the most decorated Olympian in history, having won 23 gold medals over the course of 5 Olympic Games. In addition, he is an Omega ambassador and has been since 2004, a longstanding partnership. What watches did he wear during the 2016 Olympic Games in Rio de Janeiro? Find out here!
Time+Tide
When you ask many collectors what got them into watches, you’ll often hear them attribute the spark to James Bond. The charismatic secret agent is intricately tied to timepieces, wearing various watches from Rolex, Seiko, Heuer, Pulsar, and, more recently, Omega across the six decades and 25 films of the James Bond franchise. As a … ContinuedThe post Daniel Craig’s Omega Seamaster from No Time to Die to be auctioned for charity appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
The preeminent – and perhaps only international – awards for watchmaking, Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG), has just announced the competing timepieces of 2022. We are please that one of own editions, the Kudoke 2 “Zodiac”, is competing in “Artistic Crafts”. Created last year for the 10th anniversary of SJX Watches, the Kudoke 2 “Zodiac” is a candidate alongside marques like Voutilainen and Hermes in a category that calls for “exceptional mastery of one or several artistic techniques such as enamelling, lacquering, engraving, guilloché (engine-turning), skeleton-working, etc.” The Zodiac is all about engraving – done by hand naturally – with both the front and back decorated in relief and textures. Both the dial and movement are fully engraved by the hands of the skilful artisans at Kudoke. The hand engraving is extensive and complete, with is nothing on the dial or movement that is engraved by machine – even the brand name on the dial is executed by hand. But the Zodiac is more than just artisanal technique. It is also an artistic creation: the hour symbols on the dial were commissioned especially for the watch and drawn by Canadian illustrator Lee Yuen-Rapati, who’s now the in-house designer at Fears. He cleverly combined both a sign of the zodiac and Roman numeral into each hour markers. The marker at ten, for instance, is Aquarius but also contains “X”, the Roman numeral for “10”. To echo the celestial theme on the fr...
Hodinkee
In which I sit down with TAG Heuer's newest ambassador Jacob Elordi and debate the origins of a watch nickname.
SJX Watches
Though born in Japan, Yosuke Sekiguchi is steeped in the tradition of Swiss watchmaking. He moved first to France and then Switzerland some two decades ago, and is today fluent in French and skilled at watchmaking. After a career at complications specialists like Claret and La Joux-Perret, Mr Sekiguchi established his own brand in 2020 with the goal of building a historically-inspired timepiece of extremely high quality. The concept is a familiar one that has been interpreted in various ways by others, but Mr Sekiguchi arguably succeeds far better in both paying tribute to the historical inspiration and achieving impressive, artisanal quality. His first watch is the Primevère, which made its debut just earlier this year. It is an elegantly designed and clearly rooted in 19th century pocket watches, but also novel in several ways, reflecting Mr Sekiguchi’s unusual approach to the concept. Amongst other things, it is robustly constructed and larger than such wristwatches typically are. And while the movement resembles its vintage inspiration, it is fabricated and decorated in a finer, more artisanal manner than the 19th century original. NB: The Primevère pictured here is the first complete prototype with a gold-plated case, so it still reveals several obvious imperfections in the movement decoration. Mr Sekiguchi promises the the final product will be perfectly finished and I believe that it will be. Initial thoughts Although it appears to be a pocket watch reproducti...
Time+Tide
People often conflate wristwatches and horology as being the same thing. But the latter, in fact, encompasses hundreds more years of history and tradition . The art of luxury clocks, whether for travel or for display on a mantlepiece or desk, is often reserved for lofty Swiss brands who have made significant advancements in clock … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Louis Vuitton’s travel clock comes with its own tailor-made trunk appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
The 1970s were a period of upheaval and turmoil for the mechanical watchmaking industry. This was the time of the “quartz crisis” during which the advent of quartz watches, with its superior accuracy at a much lower cost, had posed an existential threat to the Swiss watch industry. The quartz crisis led to a majorRead More
Time+Tide
OK, let’s cut to the chase here. The Bamford x G-SHOCK DW6900BWD is going to sell out fast. Online sales begin on July 20, but if you want to get your mitts on one then don’t hang about. Remember, if you will, the first time these two brands collaborated together on the Bamford G-SHOCK 5610 in … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Where does the second Bamford G-SHOCK rate on the Richter scale if the first was a 10? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Solid sizing, great specs, and a fair price to boot? The new Ranger is what field watches are all about.
Hodinkee
Max Büsser and his cohorts at his horological think tank, MB&F;, have, without question, created a bewildering variety of watches over the years that have used horology as a jumping off point for the exploration of a highly idiosyncratic vocabulary of watchmaking, in which mechanics put themselves at the service of an aesthetics that freely mingles everything from pop culture to science fiction to sometimes alarming arachnomorphism, and beyond. However, what MB&F; thus far has largely not addressed itself to is the world of traditional complications – other than the tourbillon, used by MB&F; for its aesthetic impact, you will look in vain for anything beyond a simple calendar or a moonphase. Now, however, MB&F; and Büsser have gotten into the complications game in a big way: they’ve launched their own perpetual calendar, and, what’s more, they’ve done so with an in-house movement, with a variation on the perpetual calendar mechanism unlike anything we’ve seen so far.
Time+Tide
When people ask me what brand they should keep an eye on, without hesitation I say Parmigiani Fleurier. The manufacture, while less of a household name, has always created quality timepieces. But with the brand now helmed by CEO Guido Terreni, formerly head of watches at Bulgari, the Parmigiani catalogue is becoming stronger than ever … ContinuedThe post An NYC weekend with the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Micro-Rotor appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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There is little mystery about the seismic impact of the MoonSwatch on Swatch sales. The brand can simply not make enough of them, and despite grumblings about accessibility and lack of an online sales option, demand is still red hot. The bigger question that’s emerged is, what impact will the MoonSwatch have on sales for … ContinuedThe post It’s official: Speedmaster sales up 50% in the wake of the MoonSwatch collaboration appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Evolution 9 represents a new era of design for Grand Seiko, pushing the envelope both externally and internally. The most prolific Evolution 9 design is the SLGH005 “White Birch”, but since 2021 the Grand Seiko Birch family has rapidly grown – expanding into new materials, movements and dial colours. So, here is an overview of … ContinuedThe post Branching out: An overview of the Grand Seiko Birch family appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
A venerable retailer of vintage timepieces and independent watchmaking, Shellman marks its 50th year in business. Still in its landmark Ginza store that curiously sits slightly below street level, the Tokyo retailer has announced a series of one-off and limited edition watches to mark the occasion. The latest commemorative edition is a pair from Habring², the Felix Shellman 50th Anniversary and Chrono-Felix Shellman 50th Anniversary, both featuring a discreet champagne-tone sector dial with thoughtful details. The flagship Shellman store in Tokyo’s Ginza district Initial thoughts Habring² offers honest quality and solid engineering, which makes it tangible qualities impeachable, especially in its price segment. So the appeal of a specific Habring² watch boils down to its specific design. While sector dials are common today, perhaps too common, Shellman was a pioneer in this type of design, having debuted its first Habring² with a sector dial in 2017, well before the style became a fad. For that reason, these anniversary watches have a stronger resonance than the average sector dial. The time-only And the two are also intrinsically appealing because of their careful design. At a distance both appear to be typical “sector” dials – attractive but more of the same. Up close, however, the dial designs are both smartly executed with strong attention to detail. The leaf-shape hands, for instance, are a familiar shape, but here they are heavier than usual, giving the ...
Deployant
There is a certain obsession with ultra-thin watches in the scene, with manufacturers trying to outdo each other by producing the world’s thinnest timepieces. Earlier this year, Bvlgari launched the world’s thinnest mechanical timepiece, in the form of the 1.80mm thick Octo Finissimo Ultra. This effort was however bested by Richard Mille, who recently justRead More
Time+Tide
The brief at Brellum is usually quite simple, I presume. Create well-specced watches, in limited numbers, while minimising mark-ups. That last part is an often-heard filler for independent brands, but it’s also where Brellum differs from many - offering proper substance. The new Brellum Pilot LE.3 Power Reserve Chronometer happens to be one of the more … ContinuedThe post The refreshing Brellum Pilot LE.3 Power Reserve Chronometer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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The Commonwealth Games is a prestige sporting event if you’re in one of the competing nations, with one held every four years since 1930. Longines has had a sporadic relationship with the Games since their first sponsorship in the 1962 Games, but the milestone agreement in 2020 sees the winged hourglass as partners with the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Longines HydroConquest XXII Commonwealth Games appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey’s house style is often contemporary in design but traditional in decoration and construction, an approach best embodied by its watches with an open-worked movement for the dial. Now the brand has reimagined its usually classical movement aesthetic and combined it with a sleek and sharp case to create the Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture. While the Architecture is fundamentally an iteration of the brand’s fastest-rotating and inclined tourbillon, it is powered by an all-new movement with swooping bridges and satisfyingly sharp lines. And the new calibre is contained within a sleek titanium case with an integrated strap, one no doubt inspired by its bestselling sports watches. Initial thoughts When I first saw images of the watch, my instinctive reaction was that it lived up to the name – it is impressive and architectural. I like the complex forms within the movement, which creates immense depth while also being slightly organic thanks to the curved, polished bridges. And the streamlined case is impressively detailed, especially on its flanks and edges. In fact, the Architecture is a major step forward over its predecessors in terms of architecture, no pun intend, in how it creates a strikingly more modern aesthetic for the movement while preserving the signature Greubel Forsey elements like the enormous bridge for the canon pinion that holds the hands or the jewels in chatons. One ingredient of its successful architecture is the shrewd and genero...
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: There’s more to life than watches. There’s also dating, and how to handle your love life business. In one of the most peculiar, but wonderful, stories ever filed at Time+Tide, Borna has compiled some pointers about, uh, coupling up. There is a catch, though. If you’re not up to date with horological terminology, it’s going to … ContinuedThe post 550 words of extremely valuable – and at times explicit – dating advice in heavy horological lingo appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
After our initial overview of an all-encompassing Casio Edifice collection, we thought we’d take a closer look at what they do best – pieces packed with features and functionality. Through clever integrations of their many quirks, they each have the ability to pair with your phone via Bluetooth, which will bring out the best of … ContinuedThe post Feature-packed models from Casio Edifice appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
The Danish-inspired brand is making waves with horological sustainability efforts.
SJX Watches
One of the more intriguing watches debuted by an independent watchmaker in the year to date is the Bexei Dignitas Pure “Project XX”, a collaboration between Hungarian watchmaker Aaron Becsei and American knife maker Todd Rexford. Conceived at the behest of a Thai collector living in Japan, the Project XX is based on Bexei’s time-only model but its case, dial, and movement plates in zirconium, a resilient metal with properties similar to titanium. Mr Becsei is already known for his high-quality movements and regular readers will remember the Vox Vinum grande sonnerie wristwatch he completed in 2019. His partner in his project is a leading artisanal knife maker whose one-off knives regularly sell for more than a Rolex Submariner, Todd Rexford. An artisan who works with metal in ways similar to a watchmaker, Mr Rexford uses the many of same tools found in a watchmaker’s workshop, like lathes, jig borers, and drills; he even makes his own screws. And he clearly works to the same tolerances since he produced the movement bridges for the Project XX. A defining element of the Project XX are its “hot hammered” zirconium components, namely the dial and movement bridges. It’s the signature material of Mr Rexford’s that he often uses for the handles of his knives. The zirconium dial and movement parts were produced and then hot hammered by Mr Rexford, resulting in a textured finish that sharply contrasts with the lustrous movement decoration applied by Mr Bexei. I...
Time+Tide
This week is a special edition of the Friday Wind Down, dedicated to all things Oris. Ricardo and I had two action-packed days with Oris earlier this week, spending one day at Yankee Stadium and another getting hands-on with the work of the Billion Oyster Project on Governors Island. As a New Yorker, I have … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Yankee Stadium, Billion Oyster Project, and the best of Oris appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Editor’s Note: The Nautilus is back in the news, but not for the reason we’ve become used to. Lofty aftermarket prices are beginning to face a tad of a correction. It seems this brand makes news on the way up and on the way back. But this is likely of little concern to these two chaps … ContinuedThe post That time two unexpected celebrities joined the Nautilus club appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
A young brand that’s managed to pull together impressive knowhow across the supply chain – most notably by turning to Kenissi for its movements and recruiting Jean-Claude Biver – Norqain is all about affordable, sporty watches. Most of Norqain’s offerings stick to a similar formula, but of its more interesting watches is the newly-launched Independence 22 Skeleton. Sellita-powered and open-worked, the model was originally released as a 100-piece run with a DLC-coated case and bracelet. The limited edition sold briskly, which explains the new, regular-production version in steel with a tone-on-tone look that’s arguably better looking than its all-black predecessor. Initial thoughts Skeletonised watches that are affordable – meaning a retail price of US$5,000 or less – often look the part. Such watches are usually plain and occasionally cheap looking, purely as a consequence of price constraints. But the Independence 22 Skeleton manages to avoid that and it looks good as the sum of its parts. The Independence skeleton gets a lot right. To start with, the case measures 42 mm wide and 11.8 mm tall – it’s a big watch but the width-to-height ratio is well balanced; a smaller case would have made it seem disproportionately thick. The movement has been intricately open worked and most of the brass wheels have been rhodium-plated for a consistent, monochromatic appearance that illustrate the attention to detail in its design. Combined with the raised chapter ...
Time+Tide
Upon entering this crazy hobby of ours, one tends to immediately be pulled by the allure of timeless design. Watches from the ’60s and ’70s that live on and are lusted over decade after decade. Sadly, what we as beginners soon realise is that timeless design and affordability tend to live on opposite sides of … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The timeless design and affordability of the Waldan Heritage Collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Having been at Cartier for almost four decades, Pierre Rainero is part of the institutional memory of a jeweller that was founded in 1847. He is the brand’s “Image, Style and Heritage” director, a post he has held since 2003 and one that also puts him in charge of the Cartier Collection, the brand’s own trove of historical timepieces, objects, and jewels that numbers over 1,500 items – the physical manifestation of the jeweller’s storied history. Mr Rainero’s title, along with his encyclopaedic knowledge of the house, means he determines whether something – anything really, ranging from watches and jewellery to marketing and strategy – is truly Cartier. We spoke with Mr Rainero during Watches & Wonders 2022 to unravel the process behind the development of new watches at Cartier. And he also tells us about the time Igor Stravinsky had a Cartier clock thrown at him. The interview was edited for clarity and length. SJX: Congratulations – it’s an impressive collection [launched at Watches & Wonders]. Pierre Rainero (PR): Thank you, thank you. SJX: The Crash is incredible of course. PR: Indeed, it’s just a step further [than we usually go]… It’s always difficult to rework the Crash because it’s such a statement in itself, so here was a certain finesse needed to take it further. In this case we capitalised on the original shape, but created something something else entirely because of the decoration, colours, and how it is perceived. The Crash Tigr...
Time+Tide
The King Seiko era is an often overlooked piece of Seiko’s long and bountiful history. But, as last year marked the 60th anniversary of the King Seiko range’s appearance, there’s been a push to honour it in the best way Seiko know how - with a selection of gorgeous reissues. The latest off the block … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The King Seiko SJE087 gets sexed up with gilt features and a champagne dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Watchmaking is a traditional art form, and its heritage often generates a strong connection between client and manufacturer. But we’re in the 21st century now, so to only create designs that are evocative of what we have traditionally seen over the last century would be a disservice. We need pioneers to revisit what it means … ContinuedThe post HYT reinterpret the classic moonphase with their futuristic Moon Runner Supernova Blue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Cuervo y Sobrinos drums to its own beat. And that beat has a vibrant Latin vibe to it as the heritage of the brand is anchored in the spirit and style that made Havana one of the world’s cultural hotspots. Now headquartered in Switzerland, the Latin spirit is still present in each of Cuervo y Sobrinos’ watches, including its latest creation, the Historiador Doble Luna.
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