Two Broke Watch Snobs
The Best GMT Watches We Recommend Purchasing This Year
These are our favorite GMT watches of the year and the one's we recommend most often for people to add to their collections.
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Two Broke Watch Snobs
These are our favorite GMT watches of the year and the one's we recommend most often for people to add to their collections.
Hodinkee
Last month, Jay Z blurred the lines between music video and fine art by performing the single "Picasso Baby" from his new album Magna Carta Holy Grail for 6 hours inside New York City's Pace Gallery. A small group of people joined him for the intimate performance – which was filmed by director Mark Romanek – including luminaries from the creative world such as Marina Abromović, Judd Apatow, Alan Cumming, Taraji P. Henson, Adam Driver, and Rosie Perez. Also present for the performance, a gold Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar with an openworked dial on the wrist of Jay himself.
Hodinkee
Three of the brand's most tried-and-true references get a blacked-out treatment.
Worn & Wound
The Timex Marlin at its core, is a dress watch. I’m referring to the first Marlin that comes to mind when you think of this particular model. You know, the one with the 34mm case, hour numerals using a vintage typeface, and an accompanying faux-gator leather strap. Believe it or not, this style of watch was normally worn during any activity back in its day. From working at the office, right into doing household chores during the weekend. Think Don Draper wearing a similarly styled watch while cutting the lawn. Sure we could do the same, but nowadays there’s just way too many good steel sports watches out there for them to just sit on the sidelines while they watch their dressier watchbox mate get all the wrist time. Timex’s latest iteration of their flagship dress watch aims to fill that void in their current Marlin collection by becoming a bit more sportier via a new-look dial. One look at the Marlin Automatic Sub-Dial could have you mistaken for a refined version of your quintessential Timex field watch, but it is in fact a Marlin. The main reason here is the new set of numerals used to demarcate the hours. The collection of numerals are more sizable, much bolder, and a new typeface all together. The font leans into Sans Serif territory and as a result, the numerals look friendlier and playful, while also being more legible at the same time. The natural boldness of this new typeface accentuates the curves of each numeral, especially the unique looking flat top “4...
Worn & Wound
Vulcain made a triumphant return in 2022 with the launch of a new series of iconic Cricket alarm watches in varying sizes and colors. By using the seemingly foolproof recipe of recreating a vintage timepiece with little to no reinterpretation, and relying on the historical value of the name itself, the brand was able to shake off several years of being dormant. The result was a quick sell-through and a return to relevance. The question, of course, was how they would follow up and take advantage of their newfound spotlight. The answer is the Vulcain Skindiver Nautique, which might initially seem like a surprising follow-up. Why? Well, rather than sticking with their in-house calibers or most recognizable models, they went for a somewhat generic mid-century diver. Whether or not this was a good idea will be left to consumers, but it was smart of them to demonstrate that they are going to delve deep and wide into their archives for inspiration, as well as create products at different price points. Available in black or blue with a few strap options, the Vulcain Skindiver Nautique is priced at around $1,600 (to be clear, it’s 1490 CHF, the USD is based on the exchange rate). $1600 Hands-On with the Very Reasonable Vulcain Skindiver Nautique Case Stainless Steel Movement ETA 2824-2 Dial Gloss Black Lume Yes Lens Domed Sapphire Strap Carbon Pattern Leather Water Resistance 20 ATM Dimensions 38 x 44.2mm Thickness 12.3mm Lug Width 20mm Crown screw down Warranty yes Price $1600 N...
Deployant
Nomos extends their classical dress watch lineup - the Tangente with a new Neomatic in Blue Gold. Available in two sizes of 35mm and 39mm.
SJX Watches
Jacob & Co. already has a roulette complication in its catalogue inside the Astronomia Casino, a variant of its signature watch. Now the jeweller has condensed the concept into the Casino Tourbillon, which does away with the orbital carousel to focus on the roulette automaton, although it still conceals a flying tourbillon on the back. Initial thoughts The Casino Tourbillon is very much a Jacob & Co. watch with its exuberant style and complication – but it is slightly more restrained in design than the brand’s usual offerings. While it’s far from a low-key watch with its 44 mm diameter and over-16mm height, it is modest for a Jacob & Co. watch. The roulette complication is interesting and smartly executed, though not exactly new. It is essentially a more sophisticated version of the Franck Muller Las Vegas, which instead relied on a simple execution made up of a fixed wheelhead and freely-spinning pointer hand. Priced at US$280,000, the Casino Tourbillon is pricey. Although the dial construction is complex, the roulette automaton is relatively straightforward, as is the flying tourbillon. It is, however, unique in today’s market. While casino-inspired complications were once popular (after the Franck Muller Las Vegas became a bestseller), they are uncommon today. So for the high roller who wants a novel casino-themed complication, this is probably it. Game of chance While Jacob & Co.’s watches are usually over the top, the Casino Tourbillon is relatively clean...
Time+Tide
If you spend any considerable time on watch-related internet sites and Instagram, you would’ve seen people obsessively trying to categorise watch brands. Whether that be by their idea of luxuriousness, prestige, or the ever-popular tier list (watch this space). My favourite version of this ranking system is the alignment chart. Originating from the ever-popular role-playing … ContinuedThe post The Time+Tide watch brand alignment chart appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Toward the tail end of 2022, IWC quietly introduced a new Portofino perpetual calendar (in gold and stainless steel) and it immediately caught our attention. I mean, it’s kind of an objectively beautiful watch, with an elegantly executed complication that we’re all quite fond of, and the fact IWC is making them in steel is really just icing on the perpetual calendar cake. Still, at $24,000, the steel version isn’t exactly anyone’s definition of affordable, even if we’re using imaginary money. So we were even more surprised to learn that IWC has once again sprung a very attractive calendar watch on us in a non-precious metal, still in the Portofino collection but with a different calendar complication. The new Portofino Complete Calendar shares an aesthetic with its perpetual big brother, but is less than half the price. It requires more adjustment from the user, but it’s still a classic calendar with a ton of charm. First things first, the Portofino seems to be hitting a newfound stride with these calendar watches. This has always been a solid IWC collection, if a little under the radar compared to the brand’s sportier offerings. But the Portofino speaks to the broad range of styles that IWC excels in. These are traditional dress watches, which are now increasingly outfitted with traditional complications based around IWC’s solid and reliable watchmaking. In terms of aesthetics, you’d be hard pressed to identify a distinguishing feature in these watches...
Worn & Wound
The formula for Circula’s AquaSport dive watch is fairly simple. It’s a proper 40mm diver that keeps dial furniture to a minimum and blends in a mix of color to keep their watches looking lively, and less mundane like your traditional black dial dive watch. It’s just enough to keep the AquaSport fun and refreshing, without straying too far away from Circula’s main mission – to produce high-quality, German made (Pforzheim to be exact) watches that harken back to past designs. Circula also takes pride in listening to their customers and the entire watch community as a whole, taking suggestions and then applying them accordingly to future projects. Whether there was an increasing demand for a GMT model from the community, or it was Circula’s intention to turn their AquaSport diver into an exceptional travel companion, we’ve got a brand new AquaSport GMT in two different flavors. The Circula AquaSport comes in two different dial variations: Anthracite and Blue. The AquaSport GMT Blue stays in line with what we’ve seen within the AquaSport collection. The dial has a cyan tone amplified by a sunburst effect paired with orange accented hour markers, seconds hand, and trim around the crown. A sky blue AM bezel display offsets the color matched PM display. The AquaSport GMT Anthracite keeps things a bit more reserved. The bezel remains a uniform matte gray color. Like the sunburst effect on the anthracite gray dial, the faded yellow and light blue accents on the dia...
Time+Tide
New T50 watches with new in-house Goldbronze 125 alloy comprised of 12.5% solid gold (Omega’s bronze gold is 37.5% for comparison) Standard-production models use it strictly for the bezel, limited edition with decorative grinding dial has Goldbronze bezel and case 41mm x 12.3mm x 47mm dimensions, 500m depth rating, SW 300-1 movement. German manufacturer Sinn … ContinuedThe post The Sinn T50 debuts new in-house Goldbronze 125 alloy appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Nodus started teasing out the continuation of their Sector Series early last month. With some early indications as to what we were in store for – a dual bezel display, southpaw crown stance, and a dial reading “500” potentially alluding to the water resistance rating. I assumed the latter would hold true given the appropriate name of Nodus’ latest release: the Sector Deep. The Sector Deep heavily concentrates on the keystone features in what constitutes as a legitimate dive watch. I’m talking about outstanding legibility, a case intentionally designed for comfort, and seamless functionality. We’ve seen dive watches before from the determined brand based out of California, but nothing like the Sector Deep. It’s completely novel, and their most, dare I say, professional watch to date. The Nodus Sector Deep is capable of going where its name says it can go – deep below the ocean’s surface. More specifically, 500 meters. That’s 1,640 feet for those who need the conversion and for additional perspective, that’s proximal to the height of New York City’s Freedom Tower underwater and right in the thick of the ocean’s water column. Now I know most of us won’t even come close to using up a fraction of that depth rating. Actually, I think I could speak for most of our readership (barring any certified SCUBA divers out there) when I say that we’re pretty much only concerned with the first few meters below the surface, but it’s amusing to know that the w...
Time+Tide
Calling Circula a microbrand feels like a bit of a disservice considering their history, but their approach to unique design and modern brand identity really does align with that of a much younger company. First founded in the Black Forest region of Germany in 1955 by Heinz Huber, who had been running a watch and … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Circula AquaSport GMT is a funky diver with ’70s swagger appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Digital watches often get overlooked by watch enthusiasts, as we tend to want mechanical and automatic watches that have a “heart”. But digital watches have become an essential part of modern life, offering convenience, accuracy, durability, and functionality at an affordable price. It’s tough to argue with that. Autodromo knows how to win over even the most hardcore watch enthusiast with their unique automotive inspired designs and they’ve done it again with the newest Group C, now available in the Windup Watch Shop. Digital watches often get overlooked by watch enthusiasts, as we tend to want mechanical and automatic watches that have a “heart”. But digital watches have become an essential part of modern life, offering convenience, accuracy, durability, and functionality at an affordable price. It’s tough to argue with that. Autodromo knows how to win over even the most hardcore watch enthusiast with their unique automotive inspired designs and they’ve done it again with the newest Group C, now available in the Windup Watch Shop. The post The New Autodromo Group C’s Just Landed In The Windup Watch Shop! appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Worn & Wound
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing tcalara@wornandwound.com Header Image Via: Sotheby’s Get Your Group C Racing On With This Barely-Driven Jaguar XJR-15 Via Sotheby’s Lately we’ve got Group C racing on the mind and that’s no thanks to Autodromo’s recent release. If you haven’t checked out their latest offering, you should stop reading and see it here. This week, another Group C racing related thing crossed our radar, but it wasn’t a watch. Currently on the Sotheby’s auction block is a 1991 Jaguar XJR-15 in pristine condition. This devilishly cool looking piece of machinery is only 1 of 27 ever made and is the production version of the Group C Sports-Prototype Jaguar XJR-9. We’ll save the specs listed in the auction description, as we’d rather spend time just drooling over the curves and lines of this XJR-15. The odometer on this thing currently reads 153 miles. One hundred fifty three. It’s barely lived a life. A word of advice to whoever wins the auction, which by the way is estimated to fetch upwards of $1.5 mil, drive this thing! And we’ll all be ready to snap a photo when you zip by. See Further & Look Cool Doing...
Time+Tide
Watch enthusiasts do not always share the Swiss philosophy of neutrality. Being enthusiastic about something inevitably leads to hot takes, strong and stubborn opinions and, in turn, some snobbery. On the wrong day, I am definitely guilty of it myself – we’re all human after all. The reality is this niche hobby becomes less welcoming … ContinuedThe post 10 signs you’re becoming a watch snob appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
The H. Moser & Cie Perpetual Calendar Tantalum Armour is an exceptional timepiece that combines sophisticated design, intricate mechanics, and the unique properties of tantalum. This watch offers not only accurate timekeeping but also the ability to display the date and month with perpetual accuracy, making it a highly sought-after watch among collectors.
Time+Tide
The Tangente launched as one part of a quartet of watches designed by Susanne Günther in 1992, marking the beginnings of NOMOS Glashütte. Throughout the years, the Tangente has likely become the most recognisable NOMOS model, achieving that with the minimum amount of overt design possible. It has shifted in size and colour options, adopted … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: How the new NOMOS Tangente Blaugold fits into the iconic line-up appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
In 2022, when De Bethune relaunched their incredible DB25 Perpetual Calendar in an all-new case size of 40mm, collectors sat up and took notice as it made an already thoughtfully-designed grand complication watch even more well-proportioned for the wrist. Wei and Jeremiah discuss the genesis of this sea change in the DB25 Perpetual Calendar’s case […]
Worn & Wound
As a self-proclaimed watch guy, I’ve developed a natural habit for watch spotting in the wild. It doesn’t matter if I’m in the midst of a routine trip to my local cafe or seated in my designated row as I observe the rest of the passengers board the plane. It’s also not limited to being out and about, as I’ve been known in my household to occasionally pause a movie if I spot something interesting on a character’s wrist. Needless to say, my watch-radar is always on. There are a few things that actually set this “radar” off. But for the most part, it’s design recognition. You know what you’re looking at, even when you just catch a glimpse of the watch from across the room. All the classic models and references have this going for them. A couple months back however, I must admit, I was stumped. A gentleman strolled into our Worn & Wound office and was looking to chat with someone from our editorial team. He walked into our headquarters, so surely he should have a watch on, right? So mid-conversation, I glanced over when the opportunity presented itself, and just visible outside of a denim shirt cuff, layered with a stone gray tweed overcoat, was a watch that I thought I recognized.But the more I looked, the more I got confused … and intrigued. “Definitely vintage,” I thought. But was it an IWC? A Universal Geneve? It was none of the above – it was actually something totally new. Turns out the gentleman visiting that day was Jesse Marchant, a New Yor...
Time+Tide
Yesterday, Jessie Armstrong, creator and showrunner of HBO’s hit television series Succession, revealed that season 4 would be the show’s last. He told The New Yorker he remains conflicted about the decision – and we devout viewers are certainly conflicted with whether or not we are ready for the show to end as well. But, … ContinuedThe post HBO’s Succession to end with upcoming season 4. Here are past horological highlights appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
The news concerning a revival of Daniel Roth was been circulating in Geneva and Paris for over a year but it is now official. LVMH just announced Daniel Roth “will be run as an independent brand, with guidance and incubation from La Fabrique Du Temps Louis Vuitton, as of February 2023.” Once an independent brand run by its namesake founder, Daniel Roth had its heyday in the mid-1990s when classical complications with Breguet styling were the “in” thing with collectors. Due to Mr Roth’s personal and financial struggles, the brand then changed hands several times before ending up with Bulgari over a decade ago. Daniel Roth had been on ice for several years after a few half-hearted attempts by the Italian jeweller to do something with the brand. No doubt spurred by the renewed interest in independent watchmaking, LVMH has spun off Daniel Roth and attached it to La Fabrique du Temps (LFDT), the complications and movement factory owned by Louis Vuitton (and word has it that the same will soon be done with Gerald Genta, once the sister brand of Daniel Roth). One of the less successful Bulgari-Daniel Roth offerings, a “Chronosprint” made for the All Blacks, New Zealand’s rugby team Revived with resources The return of the brand is the brainchild of Jean Arnault, the Director of Marketing and Development at Louis Vuitton’s watch division. While Mr Arnault is best known as being the youngest son of LVMH chief executive Bernard Arnault, the younger Arnault is a c...
Time+Tide
Any fun plans for the weekend? Well, before you get to it, here are the highlights of the week you may have missed and that we have yet to cover ourselves! Sinn goes for Gold(bronze) New T50 watches with new in-house Goldbronze 125 alloy comprised of 12.5% solid gold (Omega’s bronze gold is 37.5% for … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Sinn debuts Goldbronze, Richard Mille emphasises women, tantalising new Moser appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Last month, Cartier relaunched the Tank Francaise, a bestseller in the 1990s and early 2000s and also the first Tank to feature an integrated bracelet. Retaining the design elements of the 1996 original, the new Tank Francaise nonetheless sports a sleeker form and a more modern appearance overall. In many ways it’s not merely a remake but an entirely new watch. Initial thoughts When Cartier revealed the revamped Tank Francaise 27 years after the original, I was sceptical for several reasons. One because the original isn’t yet vintage enough to be a classic, but it is old enough that it might be stale. Another is the fact that it has been around for so long – the heyday of the original was the late 1990s but it remained in the catalogue until recently – the design feels too familiar. So I naturally wondered if the brand would do it justice to the model in redesigning it. After checking out the new Tank Francaise, I can certainly say it is well done and just right (apart from a few minor shortcomings in execution, like the date on the large model). The large model in steel The new Tank Francaise retains the style of the original, so it still has a bit of retro, 1990s style but not too much so it manages to look current. It still has the look of the original, with a similar outline and profile, but now with cleaner lines and neater details like a recessed crown. Other details like the brushed finish and sticker-appliqué numerals on the dials adds texture and visu...
Time+Tide
Ulysse Nardin Blast Tourbillon Blue & Gold’s faceted case is inspired by the lines of stealth aircraft design 45mm in diameter, 18K rose gold and PVD blue titanium case. Flying Tourbillon. Hours and minutes. Escapement wheel, anchor and balance spring in silicium. When delving into the romanticism of traditional high-end watchmaking, we often discuss hand-craftsmanship. But, … ContinuedThe post The Ulysse Nardin Blast Tourbillon Blue & Gold offers exemplary in-house machined mastery appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Omega Seamaster DeVille First up this week is this beautiful minimalistic Omega Seamaster DeVille presentation watch in 14k yellow gold circa 1966. The solid gold case looks clean and unpolished, with super slim straight lugs. The back has an IBM presentation engraving dated 7/21/66. The champagne dial looks original and nearly perfect, with simple gold stick hour markers and hands. The Omega signed crown is correct. The watch comes with an Omega metal presentation box that shows lots of discoloration, which is common on these boxes. Seller states the watch runs well, no picture of the movement as the case is the front-loading type. View auction here. Vintage Bulova Accutron Day & Date Next up is a really cool and unusual Accutron. This model is unique with its “up-down” day/date configuration. The day is read vertically and is positioned just below the 12, and the date window is at 6. I love the way this dial design is so symmetrical. The dial does seem to have a light, fairly even patina that is not unpleasant. The square hour markers are lume filled and match the big stick hands nicely. Correct signed crown at 4 o’clock. The caliber 2182 tuning fork movement is clean ...
Worn & Wound
Moser’s latest is the brand’s first ever release in tantalum, a rarely used metal with unique characteristics that make it one of the more rewarding metals in all of watchmaking. In other words, it has a beautiful aesthetic impact, but it takes a lot of work and knowledge to get it to that point. Using it at all is something of a flex for any brand, and Moser is throwing down the gauntlet to a certain extent with this release. Somewhat predictably, they’ve incorporated what has come to be the brand’s signature complication, a unique and easy to read perpetual calendar, into their first tantalum watch, all with an elaborate enamel dial with a distinct hammered texture. The clear highlight of the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tantalum Blue Enamel is the use of tantalum, so we’ll start there. Tantalum is extremely dense and strong, qualities which make it an excellent candidate as a case metal for a luxury watch. It’s also very corrosion resistant, and develops a very thin layer of oxidation when exposed to air that naturally protects it. Tantalum also has a gray-blue tone to it that is quite unlike any other metal, giving it a unique quality that no other metal can match. The reason tantalum is so uncommon in watchmaking is because it is very difficult to machine thanks to a melting point that comes in around 3000 °C. It takes advanced technology and equipment to properly fabricate tantalum for watchmaking purposes, which of course requires not only a substa...
Worn & Wound
Longines receives a lot of well deserved acclaim from the watch community for the tasteful way they recreate historical watches. They not only have a knack for getting the proportions and small details of these watches just right, but over the years they’ve been incredibly smart about the watches they select to reissue. Longines is essentially curating a living museum of watches that are important not just to their own brand history, but watch history writ large. Even if a particular reference is not to your taste, the fact these watches are out there preserving the brand’s heritage is important – it allows enthusiasts to really learn something about watch history, even if they never own the watch in question. Their first novelty of 2023 is a prime example of Longines teaching all of us a little bit about their past. The Longines Pilot Majetek is an uncommon pilot’s watch with a design that has roots in the 1930s. When we think of aviation watches, our minds probably go to simple designs rooted in pure legibility. The IWC Mark series, for example, provides something of a foundation for how we understand pilot watches today. Big numerals, plenty of lume, and generous proportions. For a time in the 1920s and 30s, however, pilot’s watches made by Longines were defined by a feature we now associate with a very different type of tool watch: a rotating bezel. These so-called “aviation counters” placed an emphasis on timing the duration of a flight, and used a sim...
SJX Watches
Long associated with professional pursuits in the early years of the 20th century, Longines made watches worn by explorers, scientists, soldiers, and aviators. Examples include the chronographs made for the hydrographic institute of the Italian navy in the 1930s and the wristwatches supplied to the British army in the 1940s. One of the brand’s most distinctive watches from the period was the cushion-shaped aviator’s watch made for the personnel of the Czech air force in 1935, which has now been reimagined as the Pilot Majetek. Initial thoughts The Pilot Majetek is actually Longines’ second outing in reissuing the Czech air force original. Launched almost a decade ago, the first reissue had too many elements (including a date and “automatic” on the dial) that instantly gave away the fact that it was a modern watch. In contrast, the Pilot Majetek avoids those pitfalls. The design is not a like-for-like reproduction of the original as it has a bulked-up case with crown guards and a wider bezel amongst other tweaks. But it doesn’t have any design elements that stand out as being inappropriate in a vintage-inspired watch. So on its face the Pilot Majetek appears to tick all the boxes as a vintage reissue, but with a big few caveat. Though I’ve yet to see it in person, it is almost certainly a bulky watch at 43 mm in diameter and over 13 mm high, essentially the same dimensions as a chunky sports chronograph and certainly much larger than the 41 mm original, whic...
Time+Tide
From measuring Lindberg’s first transatlantic flight to the monopusher chronograph worn by Amelia Earhart and the Weems, Longines’ tradition of pilot’s watches is a storied one. By the time the 1930s rolled around, Longines had developed a simple system for tracking time in the form of an arrow that rotated with the bezel. You could … ContinuedThe post The Longines Pilot Majetek is a wrist-mounted flight instrument with a storied past appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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