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Accutron Watches Buyer's Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Accutron Watches Buyer's Guide Accutron Sep 15, 2023

Accutron Watches Buyer's Guide

Accutron watches have been around since the 1960s, and yet the brand has become one of the freshest faces in the watch industry in the 2020s, anchored by its combination of uniquely innovative movement technology and a defiantly retro design language. When one considers how ahead of its time the original Accutron watches were - back when they were still called Bulova Accutron, part of that company's sprawling portfolio - their success in the 21st Century under a newly independent Accutron brand should surprise no one. Read on to familiarize yourself with Accutron and its pioneering role in watchmaking, from its early days to its most recent releases on the market now. Made in America: Bulova History The history of the Accutron brand begins with the Bulova Watch Company, founded by Bohemian immigrant Joseph Bulova (above) in New York City in 1875. One of the most important historical watch brands with roots in the United States, the company is today part of the Japanese Citizen Group and can look back upon a history littered with milestones: the first full line of ladies’ watches, the first television commercial, some of the earliest wristwatches produced for American troops during World War II, and one of the earliest celebrity watch endorsements - by none other than legendary aviation pioneer Charles Lindbergh, for its Lone Eagle watch - to name just a few. Throughout this history, Bulova had developed a well-earned reputation for innovating and for adapting ...

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar “Darth” SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Sep 13, 2023

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar “Darth”

Since its debut in 2021, the A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar has been the brand’s flagship pure-play perpetual calendar that combines the trademark Lange 1 design with a sophisticated movement, while doing away with the tourbillon of its bigger brother. The model now gets a new of platinum with a black dial, a combination nicknamed “Darth”, and remains powered by the L021.3. Initial thoughts The Lange 1 perpetual calendar has consistently impressed with its thoughtful design. The asymmetrical yet streamlined dial effortlessly communicates essential information. And because doesn’t have the tourbillon of the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar, it is relatively affordable, at least as such things go. As for the new version, it does look good. Lange watches tend to look good with white metal cases and black dials, think Datograph or Zeitwerk, and this is no exception. This is especially considering the model was available only with light coloured dials like salmon or grey.  The rest of the watch remains unchanged, so it has all the pros (and cons) of the earlier iterations. While the movement is impressively executed, it is a large watch, particularly since it only has the calendar complication. At almost 42 mm wide and just over 12 mm high, it has dimensions comparable to a sports chronograph. That said, most complicated Lange watches feel over-engineered, so this is typical Lange in many ways. “Darth” The new model retains the dial layout that i...

Maurice Lacroix Aikon Skeleton Urban Tribe Time+Tide
Maurice Lacroix Aikon Skeleton Urban Tribe Sep 6, 2023

Maurice Lacroix Aikon Skeleton Urban Tribe

The Maurice Lacroix Aikon Skeleton Urban Tribe introduces even more complexity and depth At 39mm in diameter, it’s a comfortable fit for such a visually-loud watch The skeletonised dial artfully shows off the ML115S movement, based on a Sellita SW200 Maurice Lacroix aren’t afraid to get experimental, and the Urban Tribe is a key example … ContinuedThe post Maurice Lacroix Aikon Skeleton Urban Tribe appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

H. Moser and MB&F; Team Up for the Streamliner Pandamonium SJX Watches
H. Moser Aug 31, 2023

H. Moser and MB&F; Team Up for the Streamliner Pandamonium

For their joint contribution to this November’s Only Watch charity auction, H. Moser & Cie and MB&F; have released the Streamliner Pandamonium. Made up of a Moser Streamliner case, fume dial, and minute repeating movement, the Pandamonium gets the MB&F; exposed, oversized balance wheel construction along with a panda DJ miniature sculpture.  Initial thoughts  These two brands are not strangers to each other, having collaborated many times before, this joint effort however, seems to be much more Moser than MB&F;, given this is essentially a Streamliner with a hint of MB&F;. Though it is an appealing watch if you like the Streamliner design, I expected the whole to be greater than the sum of the parts with such creative companies combining their powers. While the panda figure looms large in the marketing for this watch, in reality, it is easy to miss on the dial since it just under the flying balance wheel. MB&F; has employed a tiny sculpture as a power reserve indicator in the past, but here the panda is no more than a nice piece of miniature art. It would have been great if there was more of a mechanical aspect to this character, which would have transformed it into a modern take on old-school automaton repeaters – which is not too much of a stretch given the price tag. This watch is undoubtedly whimsical, but it has credible horological backing. The estimate of CHF300,000-400,000 is entirely expected for a minute repeater, and will likely be surpassed, albeit not by mult...

Opinion: Selling Points that Don’t Sell Me Part II - Deal Breakers, Pet Peeves, and Collecting Authentically Worn & Wound
Urwerk s Aug 30, 2023

Opinion: Selling Points that Don’t Sell Me Part II - Deal Breakers, Pet Peeves, and Collecting Authentically

What makes watches so expensive? It’s a question enthusiasts ask themselves at the beginning of their horological journeys, and later on, a question we find ourselves answering from curious friends and family. The answer comes down to options. Not all watches are powered by in-house movements, but some are. And if that’s what you’re into, companies will ask you to chip in for the research and development required to develop a new caliber. Likewise, not all watches go through extra testing to confirm accuracy to a few seconds per day. But if that level of reliability is a priority for you, plenty of brands are willing to provide that service for a fee. With enough rationalizing, it’s easy to see how even six digit price tags offer fair value. On the other end of the spectrum, if those options that increase MSRP don’t excite you, then maybe a one watch collection of a single $15 Casio F91W makes the most sense…but where’s the fun in that? For most of us, myself included, the sweet spot lies somewhere between the Casios and the Urwerks of the world. In the previous installment of Selling Point that Don’t Sell Me I explored what options excite me on my personal quest for quality on a budget. But enjoying watches at modest price points doesn’t mean I can’t still be picky. And so, for this installment of Selling Points that Don’t Sell Me, I’ve compiled my personal list of deal breakers and pet peeves. This list is less focused on keeping costs low, and mo...

The Frederique Constant Classic Power Reserve Big Date Manufacture is a sign of a brand going upmarket Time+Tide
Frederique Constant Classic Power Reserve Big Aug 30, 2023

The Frederique Constant Classic Power Reserve Big Date Manufacture is a sign of a brand going upmarket

The Frederique Constant Classic Power Reserve Big Date Manufacture combines elegant style with mechanical wow factor It’s highly accessible in design, referencing classic mid-century styles The FC-735 is Frederique Constant’s 31st in-house movement, signalling their intent to continue driving their brand upmarket Sometimes the little things in life are worth celebrating, and for Frederique Constant, … ContinuedThe post The Frederique Constant Classic Power Reserve Big Date Manufacture is a sign of a brand going upmarket appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Seiko Makes It Hard To Choose Favorites With Their New Addition of Seiko 5 GMTs Worn & Wound
Seiko Makes It Hard Aug 29, 2023

Seiko Makes It Hard To Choose Favorites With Their New Addition of Seiko 5 GMTs

A few months back, Seiko made a big splash in the watch scene with their sub-$500 GMT watch. With their own GMT movement inside and a design based on the iconic SKX case, they had an instant hit on their hands. We’re happy to offer their two latest dial colors: a dark charcoal grey and a bright and cheerful yellow. Read on to find out more about these two new Seikos that just landed at the Windup Watch Shop. A few months back, Seiko made a big splash in the watch scene with their sub-$500 GMT watch. With their own GMT movement inside and a design based on the iconic SKX case, they had an instant hit on their hands. We’re happy to offer their two latest dial colors: a dark charcoal grey and a bright and cheerful yellow. Read on to find out more about these two new Seikos that just landed at the Windup Watch Shop. The post Seiko Makes It Hard To Choose Favorites With Their New Addition of Seiko 5 GMTs appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Rexhep Rexhepi Reveals the Chronomètre Antimagnétique for Only Watch 2023 SJX Watches
F.P. Journe whose Chronomètre Furtif Bleu Aug 28, 2023

Rexhep Rexhepi Reveals the Chronomètre Antimagnétique for Only Watch 2023

Having dropped tantalising clues about his creation for Only Watch 2023 a few weeks ago, Akrivia founder Rexhep Rexhepi has finally taken the covers off the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Antimagnétique. A unique creation with a brand-new movement, the Chronomètre Antimagnétique (RRCA) is a time-only wristwatch with a steel case, one that was inspired by the magnetism-resistant chronometers of the mid-20th century. Its design has clear roots in vintage watches, while the movement features an indirect centre seconds with a hacking, zero-reset mechanism. Initial thoughts About the half the offerings in Only Watch 2023 are from independent watchmakers, but the creations vary tremendously in their originality and effort. Amongst the independents that created genuinely new watches for the event is F.P. Journe, whose Chronomètre Furtif Bleu is the first of a new sports model and likely the only watch ever made by an independent that boasts a tantalum bracelet. At the low-effort end of the spectrum is Moritz Grossmann that added “Only Watch” to the seconds register of a regular-production model and called it a day. The RRCA sits alongside the Chronomètre Furtif Bleu as being impressively original. The RRCA has an newly-designed steel case with a removable outer back and within, a calibre that inherits the distinctive Rexhep Rexhepi aesthetic but is newly developed from the ground up. Even though it is a simple watch with just three hands, the movement is executed in the Mr ...

Christopher Ward Introduces The Twelve in a Smaller, 36MM Case Size Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Introduces Aug 24, 2023

Christopher Ward Introduces The Twelve in a Smaller, 36MM Case Size

Over the last few years, the watch-buying public has made known its seemingly insatiable appetite for sport watches with integrated bracelets – and smaller ones at that. In response, brands from Alpina to Zenith have given it their best shot. Today Christopher Ward fires the latest salvo in this movement with The Twelve, now in all of its 36mm glory. Introduced in April of this year, The Twelve is Christopher Ward’s interpretation of the integrated bracelet sport watch, and the new release changes little other than its dimensions. Front and center is still the eponymous dodecagonal bezel, which is mirrored on the caseback with three types of finishing: brushed, sandblasted, and highly polished. The 36mm case features screwed-in crown guards and remains 9.95mm thin. Lug-to-lug distance is now 40.8mm (likely not including the male end links), and water resistance is still 100 meters. At launch, you can choose from four dial options: Nordic or Glacier Blue, Alta White, and exclusive to this smaller size, Frosted Lichen (mint green). Inside beats the same Sellita SW200-1 that lives inside the non-titanium 40mm variants of The Twelve, but the date feature has been removed. CW claims keeping the date on this variant would have necessitated omitting the 6 o-clock hour marker entirely, something the brand elected not to do in order to preserve simplicity. Retail price is $1,225 on a bracelet and $995 on a tapering rubber strap. CW has stated that this new 36mm size is agender ...

The new MB&F; HM9 Sapphire Vision bare all with full transparency and new colours Time+Tide
MB&F; Aug 24, 2023

The new MB&F; HM9 Sapphire Vision bare all with full transparency and new colours

The MB&F; HM9 Sapphire Vision initially came in four editions, each limited to only 5 pieces Two new HM9-SV models now join the collection, again each limited to 5 pieces One brings a blue PVD-coated movement into a white gold case, the other a green PVD-coated movement into a yellow gold case The MB&F; catalogue … ContinuedThe post The new MB&F; HM9 Sapphire Vision bare all with full transparency and new colours appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Zenith DEFY 21 Chroma II is another high-tech taste of the rainbow Time+Tide
Zenith DEFY 21 Chroma II Aug 22, 2023

The Zenith DEFY 21 Chroma II is another high-tech taste of the rainbow

Zenith’s colourful limited edition from last year has returned, this time in black ceramic too The white variant now features a subtly different colour gradation An El Primero movement and openworked dial provides plenty of visual drama There’s just something undeniably fun and alluring about a rainbow watch. There’s a sort of horseshoe effect with … ContinuedThe post The Zenith DEFY 21 Chroma II is another high-tech taste of the rainbow appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Latest from Grail Watch is a Ludovic Ballouard Upside Down with Art by the Watchmaker’s Young Son Worn & Wound
F.P. Journe he was handpicked Aug 21, 2023

The Latest from Grail Watch is a Ludovic Ballouard Upside Down with Art by the Watchmaker’s Young Son

Ludovic Ballouard’s Upside Down, first seen in 2010, is one of independent watchmaking’s most inventive and whimsical creations. Ballouard started his own brand after stints working with big names like Franck Muller and F.P. Journe (he was handpicked by Journe to work on his most complex movement, the Sonnerie Souveraine), and his signature complication is quite unlike anything else. The Upside Down’s conceit is that it displays each hour upside down except the current hour, which is flipped right side up when the minute hand crosses 12:00. It’s an incredibly complicated design, the purpose of which, according to Ballouard, is to “treasure the time we are in.” It’s also just a very cool party trick, and the platform for the latest release from Grail Watch, Wei Koh’s ongoing series of dream collaborations.  The new Upside Down seen here isn’t a brand to brand collaboration like previous Grail Watch releases, but a heartfelt partnership between Ballouard and his young son, Gabriel, or “Gaga” for short. Wei Koh asked Ballouard if Gabriel could be involved in the creation of this watch after hearing Ballouard’s incredible story of becoming a parent. He lost his first wife, Eveline, to cancer, some years ago, but not before she told him of her hopes that he’d remarry and have a family. This seemed impossible to Ballouard at first, but he eventually met Flavia during his daily walk in Parc Bertrand in Geneva. She changed his life, and they soon become ...

The new Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Maillechort is Monochrome’s latest montre de souscription Time+Tide
Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Maillechort Aug 21, 2023

The new Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Maillechort is Monochrome’s latest montre de souscription

This marks the third montre de souscription from Monochrome Monochrome aimed to design a “warm, discreet, and traditional” take on the Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force This edition stands out with its usage of maillechort, or German silver, for the movement These days, whether standard models or limited editions, many try to leverage bold colours … ContinuedThe post The new Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Maillechort is Monochrome’s latest montre de souscription appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

20 Affordable GMT Watches for Budget-Conscious Travelers Teddy Baldassarre
Timex Q Timex GMT Price Aug 18, 2023

20 Affordable GMT Watches for Budget-Conscious Travelers

Of all the different types of complicated timepieces, watches with a GMT or second-time-zone function are among the most useful in everyday life, especially for those of us who travel frequently, do long-distance business in other parts of the world, or some combination of both. Until relatively recently, if you wanted such a watch with a traditional mechanical movement (as opposed to a digital or quartz option), you could expect to pay a fairly hefty price for it. Fortunately, a growing number of watch brands - large and small, well-established as well as plucky newcomers - have started to make GMT watches that are attainable for newer, less affluent aficionados while also being robustly built and thoughtfully designed. In this article, we spotlight 20 of these affordable GMT watches, in ascending order of MSRP, all of which fall under the $2,000 threshold. (If you’re interested in a broader look at the GMT watch category, and might be convinced to spend a bit, or a lot, more, check out our original list of the best GMT watches.) Under $1,000: Timex Q Timex GMT Price: $229, Case Size: 38mm, Thickness: 12.5mm, Lug Width: 18mm, Crystal: Acrylic, Water Resistance: 50 meters, Movement: Quartz Analog Always known for its value proposition, mass-market Timex has also gotten onto the radar of vintage-watch fans in recent years by reproducing some of its cult-favorite historical models, seeking out the sweet spot between historical flair, modest dimensions, and great pricin...

Everything you need to know about dial finishing Time+Tide
Aug 14, 2023

Everything you need to know about dial finishing

When you look at a watch, what’s the first thing you notice? Do you immediately comment on the movement, or perhaps case finishing? Of course not – it’s the dial. No matter how nice the movement is, or even how suitable the dimensions are for your wrist, the dial is the likely the one to … ContinuedThe post Everything you need to know about dial finishing appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Porsche Design Chronograph 1 911 S/T is only available for owners of the most desirable Porsche in years Time+Tide
Porsche Design Chronograph 1 911 S/T Aug 12, 2023

The Porsche Design Chronograph 1 911 S/T is only available for owners of the most desirable Porsche in years

The car industry is perfect proof that hype is not a plague reserved just for watches. With multi-year waitlists, and insane dealer mark-ups, Porsche is spearheading the car hype movement, and their latest model is not likely to buck the trend. Essentially a wolf in a buff sheep’s clothing, the new 911 S/T is a … ContinuedThe post The Porsche Design Chronograph 1 911 S/T is only available for owners of the most desirable Porsche in years appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Summer Shades for the Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph SJX Watches
Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph Glashütte Orig... Aug 9, 2023

Summer Shades for the Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph

Glashütte Original has released the latest variations of its vintage-style sports chronograph, the Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date. First introduced in 2014, the watch is defined by a squarish case, integrated bracelet, and in-house movement. Now the German watch brand has unveiled a limited edition pair that feature matte, lacquered dials in either ochre or grey-blue. Initial thoughts Given the niche appeal of its obviously-retro case, it is unsurprising that the Seventies Chronograph doesn’t receive as much attention as most sports watches derived from that period. It doesn’t quite have the same look of the most popular watches of the 1970s (think sports watches from Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet). That’s something of a shame considering the excellent, integrated chronograph movement inside. Hopefully, the introduction of brighter dial options will boost its appeal. Certainly, the new dial offerings align with the current trend for coloured dials, particular the dial in light blue that’s much like the shade found in the Rolex Oyster Perpetual collection. This dial update significantly improves the models in terms of visual appeal as it gives the model a more lively appearance compared to earlier versions that had conventional dark, metallic finish dials. Priced at US$14,100 on a rubber strap and US$15,300 on a matching bracelet, the new models cost slightly more than the standard models. But given these are limited editions in colours will not be seen a...

Tissot Adds New Dial Options to their 35mm PRX Powermatic 80 Collection Worn & Wound
Tissot Adds New Dial Options Aug 8, 2023

Tissot Adds New Dial Options to their 35mm PRX Powermatic 80 Collection

In a move that’s sure to excite watch enthusiasts, Tissot is adding two new colors to the celebrated PRX Powermatic 80 35mm: fan-favorite Ice Blue and a PVD Gold. The PRX landscape has never looked more diverse, and those who prefer an automatic movement in the more approachable size can now choose between six flavors: Black, Green, Blue, White Mother of Pearl, Ice Blue, and Gold. It’s hard to believe that it has already been two years since Tissot reintroduced the PRX, a watch with origins from 1978. With its angular case and integrated bracelet, it’s right on trend and has been a calling card for those looking to get into the integrated sports watch game without selling a kidney. Over time, the lineup has grown to include quartz and automatic watches in both 40mm and 35mm. By gradually adding size, color, movement options, and even a chronograph, Tissot has earned its place on the shortlist for affordable yet satisfying sport watches. These new PRX 35mm watches are powered by Tissot’s Powermatic 80. Based on the ETA 2824-2 caliber, the Powermatic’s improved spring barrel efficiency and lower beat rate of 3Hz allow for an impressive power reserve of 80 hours. Unlike their 40mm counterparts, however, the new 35mm PRX watches boast near-universal wearability. This is largely attributed to the way the first bracelet link extends as it meets the case. A 6mm reduction in lug-to-lug distance from 51mm to just under 45mm (44.9mm to be exact) makes this a completely dif...

Hands On: Panerai Radiomir “Otto Giorni” PAM01347, PAM01348 and California PAM01349 SJX Watches
Panerai Radiomir “Otto Giorni” PAM01347 Aug 4, 2023

Hands On: Panerai Radiomir “Otto Giorni” PAM01347, PAM01348 and California PAM01349

Though much of Panerai’s current line up tilts towards more contemporary designs, its new launches for the year included a trio of Radiomir models that will please enthusiasts who appreciate Panerai’s historical watches: the Radiomir “Otto Giorni” PAM01347 and PAM01348, and the Radiomir California PAM01349. All three are equipped with the eight-day P.5000 movement, but are presented in a more wearable 45 mm case with an aged finish. Initial thoughts Panerai’s distinctive aesthetic has given birth to a few iconic designs, all of which have been iterated numerous times. Though the brand has been rightly criticised for repetitive renditions, it is inevitable given a history centred on just a handful of models. The Radiomir is one such iconic design, and it seemed to have fallen out of favour in recent years with the brand choosing instead of roll out many, many Luminor models. The Radiomir “Otto Giorni” PAM01348 Consequently, it is gratifying to see the brand’s renewed emphasis on the Radiomir while infusing the design with fresh elements to make it more than a mere vintage remake. Furthermore, the new models offer enhanced wearability with a 45 mm case, in contrast to older references that mostly had a larger 47 mm case. As an aside, the three have “Brunito” cases with a simulated aged finish that is a bit of a gimmick but suits the design of the watches. I would have preferred a conventional mirrored finish as found on earlier Radiomir models, but the ...

Singer Reimagined Streamlines the Clever Central Chronograph SJX Watches
Singer Aug 3, 2023

Singer Reimagined Streamlines the Clever Central Chronograph

The watchmaking arm of vintage Porsche rebuilder Singer, Singer Reimagined has just taken the covers off the 1969 collection, a pair of watches that reimagine (no pun intended) the brand’s trademark central chronograph, the 1969 Chronograph and the simpler 1969 Timer. Like the brand’s prior models, the 1969 duo are vintage inspired and share the familiar cushion-shaped case and inventive Agenhor movement. But they are now smaller and more wearable, and in a first for the brand, are fitted to a matching bracelet. Initial thoughts In choosing 1969 as the inspiration for the brand’s latest series of watches, founder Marco Borraccino has selected a platform that allowed him both a historical connection to the past and an aesthetic palette from which to draw. The idea is particularly clever for a young brand with no heritage of its own. Choosing instead to focus on the industry-wide heritage for the brand’s most central complication is something of a sideways masterstroke. Pleasingly, the brand communication has refrained from laying it on too thick in this regard, so we can enjoy the pieces for what they are without the story getting in the way of the facts. To me, these two pieces are a welcome addition to the catalogue. I’m never one to ignore an uptick in wearability and this certainly offers it. Achieving this without sacrificing any of the brand’s aesthetic cues is a job well done. While there is a massive drop-off in functionality from the Chronograph to the ...