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We Predicted It! Tudor Is In Formula 1 And Daniel Ricciardo Is Wearing A New Tudor Black Bay Ceramic Fratello
Tudor Feb 9, 2024

We Predicted It! Tudor Is In Formula 1 And Daniel Ricciardo Is Wearing A New Tudor Black Bay Ceramic

After test-driving two carbon fiber Pelagos FXD “Alinghi Red Bull Racing Editions” in October, we painted a picture in which Tudor was a sponsor of a Formula 1 team. You said we were nuts. Rolex was already too heavily involved, and Tudor would stick to surfers, sailors, and cyclists. But what do you know? In […] Visit We Predicted It! Tudor Is In Formula 1 And Daniel Ricciardo Is Wearing A New Tudor Black Bay Ceramic to read the full article.

The New Longines Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve Celebrates a Big Anniversary by Updating a Mid Century Classic Worn & Wound
Longines Conquest Heritage Central Power Feb 1, 2024

The New Longines Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve Celebrates a Big Anniversary by Updating a Mid Century Classic

It’s like we always say: every year is an anniversary year. As surely as the sky is blue and the tax bill comes every spring, watch brands will celebrate major (and not so major, to be honest) anniversaries with new watch releases. This year, Longines is celebrating what is actually a fairly big milestone for their Conquest collection, which turns 70 in 2024. This line is pure mid century elegance, which in my opinion never really went out of fashion, even if sportier watches have been the focus of the watch world for much of the last decade. The Conquest watches immediately evoke a period of time when you could wear a fedora unironically, and smoke cigarettes indoors. A simpler time, before we felt the need to place watches into distinct categories, and they were just watches. You get a little taste of that with the new Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve, as well as a very cool execution of a common complication.  The new reference seen here is a reinterpretation of a watch that made its debut in 1959 and featured a power reserve indicator in the center of the dial, which functioned with two rotating discs. The modern version uses the same principle as the watch from the 50s, with a power reserve indicator tied to an uncoiling disc marked with a baton shaped indicator that tracks the movement’s power over the course of its 64 hours of running time. Seeing the power reserve at the center of the dial seems remarkably intuitive, and Longines, for their part, take c...

Christiaan van der Klaauw Unveils the “Amsterdam Star” SJX Watches
Christiaan van der Klaauw Unveils Feb 1, 2024

Christiaan van der Klaauw Unveils the “Amsterdam Star”

Best known for its astronomical complications, Christiaan van der Klaauw (CVDK) has created a special run of its chronograph with complete calendar and moon phase for its retailer in the Netherlands. The Ace x Christiaan van der Klaauw stAriadne Amsterdam Star is preserves the original design but adds a “fog grey” dial with star-shaped indices inspired by the “Stelline” dials found on 1950s Rolex watches. Initial thoughts The independent brand’s collaboration with Ace Jewelers is logical since both hail from the same country. The stAriadne stands out with its star indices that replaces the Arabic numerals of the standard model. A nod to the Rolex ref. 6062, star dials are relatively rare in contemporary timepieces, rendering this release quite distinctive. That being said, this is essentially an Ariadne with a new dial. Ideally, it would have been more interesting with mechanical tweaks to the largely standard Valjoux chronograph movement, a reliable but thick movement with shortish power reserve. But considering it is a limited edition of 50 pieces priced at €7,180 – about the same as the standard model – it is a reasonable proposition. A “star” dial  The stAriadne is the latest iteration of the Ariadne, one of the longstanding models in the CVDK line-up. Since its launch, the model has been powered by the Valjoux 7758, a variant of the familiar 7750 chronograph movement that has the addition of a complete calendar and moon phase. Last year, the Ari...

IFL Watches Introduces The Fun Citizen Tsuyosa Automatic Space Surfer Fratello
Citizen Tsuyosa Automatic Space Surfer Jan 29, 2024

IFL Watches Introduces The Fun Citizen Tsuyosa Automatic Space Surfer

IFL Watches is one of the remarkable success stories of the past few years within the world of watches. I vividly remember seeing the brand’s Tissot PRX Arctic Sky and Midnight Sky models for the first time. At the hands of IFLW’s artists, the PRX had transformed into something even more unique with beautiful handpainted […] Visit IFL Watches Introduces The Fun Citizen Tsuyosa Automatic Space Surfer to read the full article.

Introducing The Cyano - Artisans De Genève’s First Personalized Audemars Piguet Watch Fratello
Audemars Piguet Watch Artisans de Genève Jan 27, 2024

Introducing The Cyano - Artisans De Genève’s First Personalized Audemars Piguet Watch

Artisans de Genève is not the only company creating personal interpretations of grail watches from Rolex and Patek. Still, I feel that ADG deeply respects the clients’ base models while meticulously improving details. Adding interest and bespoke detailing to an already accomplished design is a delicate subject, but to me, Artisans de Genève is on […] Visit Introducing The Cyano - Artisans De Genève’s First Personalized Audemars Piguet Watch to read the full article.

Clark Gable Wears The Coolest Watch Of 1955 In ‘Soldier of Fortune’: Patek Philippe Reference 1526 Perpetual Calendar – Reprise Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe Reference 1526 Perpetual Calendar Jan 25, 2024

Clark Gable Wears The Coolest Watch Of 1955 In ‘Soldier of Fortune’: Patek Philippe Reference 1526 Perpetual Calendar – Reprise

Like a proper gentleman, Hollywood legend Clark Gable paired wristwatches to go with his outfits both on and off screen. Gable had a gold Rolex Oyster Perpetual Reference 6011 and also wore a Patek Philippe Reference 1526 Perpetual Calendar, prominently seen in ‘Soldier of Fortune’ as Nick Gould highlights here.

Over The Influence - Why Watches Worn By The Celebs Of Today Won’t Be The Icons Of Tomorrow Fratello
Louis Vuitton Tambour Jan 19, 2024

Over The Influence - Why Watches Worn By The Celebs Of Today Won’t Be The Icons Of Tomorrow

Paul Newman made the Rolex Daytona famous for all kinds of reasons, but money wasn’t one of them. Will Bradley Cooper make the Louis Vuitton Tambour a legend of the watch world? Well, when the American actor was an IWC ambassador, he didn’t get a watch (nick)named after him. Also, once his deal with the […] Visit Over The Influence - Why Watches Worn By The Celebs Of Today Won’t Be The Icons Of Tomorrow to read the full article.

Best of 2023: Notable Surprises and Unexpected Developments SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Travel Time Dec 28, 2023

Best of 2023: Notable Surprises and Unexpected Developments

Perhaps the most surprising aspect of the year was how predictable much of it was. We saw more sports watches with integrated bracelets and more time-only watches with ostensibly artisanal decoration. Paradoxically, most of the notable surprises came from establishment marques that would ordinarily be predictable. Amongst them are the Rolex Perpetual 1908 and Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Travel Time ref. 5224R, both thoughtful creations that are typical for their respective brands. Here are our picks for the year’s best surprises in watchmaking. Brandon Moore Technical Contributor An unexpected, but user-friendly complicated watch that debuted this year is the Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Display Travel Time Ref. 5224R, a simple dual time watch with a twist: both time zones are indicated on a 24-hour dial, eliminating the need for an auxiliary day-night indicator. Not only is the functionality appealing, but the aesthetic and ergonomic execution is done well. While 42 mm may seem large for a Calatrava, the watch is visually smaller thanks to its abundant use of applied markers on the dial and stepped case and lugs. Moreover, and importantly, it is different for Patek Philippe, which is notable since the brand usually errs on the side of the tried and tested. Who would have thought Patek Philippe would remake the Chronometro Gondolo into a wristwatch? Richard Lee Technical Editor I was surprised when I first saw the Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” Minute Repeater ref....

Interview: Hind Seddiqi, Director General of Dubai Watch Week SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Nov 29, 2023

Interview: Hind Seddiqi, Director General of Dubai Watch Week

Having began as a small-scale and mostly regional event in 2015 – I was there and thought it would become important one day – Dubai Watch Week (DWW) has since grown into an expansive horological extravaganza with an international audience. With some 23,000 visitors, a 42% increase over the 2021 event, this year’s DWW is the biggest to date. Sixty-three brands took part, ranging from giants like Rolex, Audemars Piguet, and Chanel, to independent watchmakers like F.P. Journe, Rexhep Rexhepi, and H. Moser & Cie. Some brands even launched all-new products at DWW. MB&F;, for instance, launched its headline creation for the year, the HM11, at the event. As Director General of DWW, Hind Seddiqi is one of the individuals who makes DWW possible. We discussed with her vision for DWW, ranging from its emphasis on independent watchmaking to the future of horological education in the region, which includes a WOSTEP watchmaking academy in Dubai. The interview was edited for length and clarity. The MB&F; HM11, one of the watches launched during DWW SJX: I remember the first Dubai Watch Week was inside the mall. Now it’s a separate setup that’s impressive. And even though it’s grown, I like the fact that you retain all the independents. Hind Seddiqi (HS): [Indpendents are] extremely important and if you enter into the [fair] in the afternoons you will see they’re the ones who are the busiest with customers wanting to meet the watchmakers. SJX: How do the independents relate to...

Fascinating and Landmark Complications at Christie’s Hong Kong SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony ref 30020 Nov 21, 2023

Fascinating and Landmark Complications at Christie’s Hong Kong

After seeing the fascinating timepieces made by independent watchmakers and the artistic highlights, let us now direct your attention to the notable complications in the Christie’s sales that take place on November 26.  In this compilation, we scrutinise nine noteworthy lots. Some items, like the Audemars Piguet Perpetual Calendar ref. 5516 and the Patek Philippe Sky Moon Tourbillon, stand out with their six-figure price tags, while others might escape attention but are still deserving of a mention. Examples include the contemporary Omega De Ville Central Tourbillon or a distinctive version of Montblanc’s 1858 Split-Seconds crafted for the Only Watch charity auction. Important Watches (lots 2201-2343) begin at 1 pm on November 26 at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre – the catalogue is available here. It will be followed by the second session (lots 2501-2639) offering watches from the OAK Collection at 6:30 pm – see the full catalogue here. Lot 2223: Vacheron Constantin Patrimony ref. 30020 in platinum  The Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar pays homage to the revered vintage reference 4261, capturing the essence of one of Vacheron Constantin’s most sought-after timepieces among collectors. Manufactured in 200 examples across two configurations, one with a traditional dial, as seen here, and the other skeletonised, the watch stands out as a coveted item in the current collectors’ market. Notably, only 77 examples, inc...

An Eye on Complicated Watches at Phillips Hong Kong SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle grand complication both Nov 20, 2023

An Eye on Complicated Watches at Phillips Hong Kong

Our favourite segments in Phillips’ Hong Kong sale on November 24 and 25 are artisanal and form watches, independents of course, and now complications. We round up a selection of nine notable complicated watches, including two special-order Patek Philippe masterpieces, a ref. 3974P with Breguet numerals and a ref. 5004P Michael Ovitz special. The list also includes vintage complications, like the well-preserved Rolex ref. 6062 yellow gold “Stelline”. And also some big value buys in a literal sense: the 48 mm Panerai PAM00350 “Lo Scienzato” skeleton tourbillon and the 44 mm Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle grand complication, both estimated at a fraction of their retail price. The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XVII takes place on November 24 and 25, 2023. Registration for bidding and the complete catalogue can be accessed here. Lot 839: Panerai Radiomir Tourbillon GMT Ceramica “Lo Scienziato” PAM00350 Panerai paid tribute to astronomer Galileo Galilei in 2010 with the PAM00350 “Lo Scienziato”, one of the most complicated watches made by the brand.  It was a Radiomir Tourbillon GMT Ceramic powered by the in-house cal. P.2005/S – a skeletonised movement executed in a distinctly modern style with the base plate and brides open worked in a grid and finished entirely in matte black. The aesthetics of the P.2005/S movement make the PAM00350 arguably one of the few Panerai models that successfully blended a thoroughly contemporary aesthetic with the historical Pa...

Dubai Watch Week Begins November 16, 2023 SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet while independent watchmakers continue Nov 12, 2023

Dubai Watch Week Begins November 16, 2023

Dubai Watch Week (DWW) is the last major international event of the year’s horological calendar. Organised by Middle East retailer Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, DWW takes place from November 16-20 at its traditional venue of the Dubai International Financial Centre (DIFC). The event promises to be bigger and better than before, with exhibitors spanning the spectrum of watchmaking, from Rolex to Rexhep Rexhepi. From its origins as an event focused on niche and independent brands, DWW has grown to involve major marques. The exhibitors this year include Rolex and Audemars Piguet, while independent watchmakers continue to have a major presence. F.P. Journe, MB&F;, Urwerk, and Rexhepi Rexhepi are amongst the indies taking part. DWW founder Hind Seddiqi Many of the industry’s notable personalities will be Dubai Watch Week, with speakers including Frederic Grangie, head of Chanel’s watch and jewellery division; Francois-Henry Bennahmias, the outgoing chief executive of Audemars Piguet; and Jean Arnault, director of watches at Louis Vuitton. And independent watchmaking will have an equal share of the limelight, with Felix Baumgartner of Urwerk, as well as Maximilian Büsser and Stephen McDonnell of MB&F; amongst the speakers. The event includes classes intended to give the public a taste of the watchmaking crafts. These include a gem setting workshop by Audemars Piguet and a miniature painting class by Louis Vuitton. DWW takes place from November 16-20, 2023 at DIFC. Entry is free but...

Sotheby’s sale of two George Daniels x Roger Smith watches had a record-breaking result Time+Tide
Patek Philippe watches But it Nov 8, 2023

Sotheby’s sale of two George Daniels x Roger Smith watches had a record-breaking result

When a big auction house presents their latest catalogue of lots, it is expected that it will be filled with various Rolex and Patek Philippe watches. But, it is not an everyday occurence for two incredibly rare and historically significant watches from the likes of George Daniels and Roger W. Smith to pop up – … ContinuedThe post Sotheby’s sale of two George Daniels x Roger Smith watches had a record-breaking result appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Happenings at the Geneva Auction Season Fall 2023 SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Nov 7, 2023

Happenings at the Geneva Auction Season Fall 2023

Regarded as a bellwether of the market, the Geneva auction season just concluded with the main players – Phillips, Christie’s, Sotheby’s, and Antiquorum – having staged their sales over four days. Several records were set over the season, including CHF2.1 million for an immaculate Rolex ref. 6062 triple calendar in steel at Phillips, and CHF2.2 million for the George Daniels Millennium also signed by Roger W. Smith, both including fees. Trending one way Despite the record holders, the tone of the season was set by moderating or even weak prices. This was already evident with the most faddish of the “hype” watches last season six months ago. The May auctions saw prices for such watches gap down substantially, reflecting a new reality. Now the same appears to be happening for independent watchmaking – a good thing in my view as it will hopefully shake out the opportunists and no-hopers. The Roger W. Smith Series 2 hammered for CHF400,000 at Phillips (or CHF508,000 with fees), which is below the current retail price for the model and a third below the price of the lower-priced Series 1 that sold in the same venue in May 2023. The Phillips saleroom at La Reserve. Image – Phillips This phenomenon was not unique to Roger W. Smith, with prices gapping down for significant independents like F.P. Journe and Voutilainen. However, these brands remain buoyed by their relative reasonable retail prices, which still remain below recent auction valuations. Even if some exa...

Aventurine Complications by Bucherer and H. Moser & Cie. SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Oct 30, 2023

Aventurine Complications by Bucherer and H. Moser & Cie.

The collaboration between Bucherer and H. Moser & Cie. has given birth to a trio of timepieces: the Pioneer Tourbillon Concept Aventurine and two different takes on the Endeavour Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon Aventurine. Bucherer, a renowned Swiss retailer with a global presence that was recently acquired by Rolex, has made blue dials a signature feature of its collaborations. While most Bucherer exclusives sport blue-finish metal dials, this trio have dials of aventurine glass, otherwise known as goldstone. It’s essentially glass with metallic inclusions that give it a speckled, sparkly appearance that evokes the night sky. Initial thoughts The combination of red gold and deep blue dials neatly aligns with both Bucherer’s and Moser’s respective aesthetics. This collaboration continues the retailer’s tradition of unique, blue-themed exclusives that are a variants of familiar models.  It is worth noting the three timepieces are derived from models in Moser’s existing product range, including the aventurine dials. Furthermore, the movements, namely the HMC 904 with repeater and the HMC 804 tourbillon, remain unchanged. While this reflects the collaborative effort between Bucherer and Moser, it raises the question of whether even greater imaginative potential could have been explored by both entities.  That said, the aventurine dials are appealing, though they come at a price. For instance, the Pioneer Tourbillon Concept Aventurine costs US$71,500, compared t...

The Tissot Sideral is Both a Re-Interpretation and Trendsetter Worn & Wound
Tissot Sideral Oct 17, 2023

The Tissot Sideral is Both a Re-Interpretation and Trendsetter

One of the more adventurous releases from Tissot as of late, the Sideral S is not an entirely new concept; it is a modern reinterpretation of the original from 1971. That watch was a huge-for-its-time 42mm regatta timer whose case was forged from, of all things, bakelite. Rolex 6542 enthusiasts and others know this wasn’t the most durable material, and Tissot has reissued the Sideral – this time in carbon fiber and stainless steel and we have them available now in the Windup Watch Shop. Look closely, though, and you’ll realize this is a watch that not only embodies a few current trends but may set some new ones of its own. In this case (see what I did there?), it’s what’s on the outside that counts. One of the more adventurous releases from Tissot as of late, the Sideral S is not an entirely new concept; it is a modern reinterpretation of the original from 1971. That watch was a huge-for-its-time 42mm regatta timer whose case was forged from, of all things, bakelite. Rolex 6542 enthusiasts and others know this wasn’t the most durable material, and Tissot has reissued the Sideral – this time in carbon fiber and stainless steel and we have them available now in the Windup Watch Shop. Look closely, though, and you’ll realize this is a watch that not only embodies a few current trends but may set some new ones of its own. In this case (see what I did there?), it’s what’s on the outside that counts. The post The Tissot Sideral is Both a Re-Interpretati...

Highlights: Notable Complications at Sotheby’s Hong Kong Autumn Auction SJX Watches
Patek Philippe ref 5004R Sep 27, 2023

Highlights: Notable Complications at Sotheby’s Hong Kong Autumn Auction

Commencing in early October, the autumn auction season begins with Sotheby’s Important Watches I, a catalogue of 205 lots that will be sold on October 7 in Hong Kong. The auction includes artisanal timepieces, examples of independent watchmaking creativity, and exceptional complications. Here, we present eight notable complications including some unsurprising, six-figure picks like a Patek Philippe ref. 5004R with a special-order dial and a Rolex ref. 6062 “Stelline” from the original Japanese owner. But the list includes some that may fly under the radar but deserve recognition, such as the travel-ready Richard Mille RM62-01 (albeit conceived for flying private) and an impressive Patek Philippe ref. 942 grand complication pocket watch that includes a grande and petite sonnerie, putting it in the top rank of all pocket watches. Important Watches I takes place on October 7, 2023. Registration for bidding and the full catalogue can be accessed here.  Lot 2166: A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar ref. 345.056E  The Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar has effortlessly fuses the renowned Lange 1 design with a complex movement, conspicuously excluding the tourbillon found in its larger counterpart. At launch, the watch was available in two guises: pink gold with a grey dial or the more popular, limited edition white gold with a “salmon” (pink gold) dial, as we see here.  In contrast to conventional calendars that employ sub-dials, the Lange 1 perpetual calendar sea...

The Omega Symbol: Where Does it Come From and What Does it Mean? Teddy Baldassarre
Omega Sep 21, 2023

The Omega Symbol: Where Does it Come From and What Does it Mean?

The Omega symbol that accompanies the brand’s classical logotype is one of the most recognizable emblems in the watch world, up there with Rolex’s hallmark coronet and Patek Philippe’s venerable Calatrava cross. But what exactly does Omega’s iconic hieroglyph actually symbolize, and what is its meaning in the context of the Swiss manufacture’s watchmaking history? Put simply, the symbol that has long been identified with the Omega brand is a stylized version of the 24th and final letter in the Greek alphabet, called Omega. (If you went to a college that had fraternities and sororities, this probably isn’t news to you.) Much like its counterpart at the beginning of the Greek alphabet, Alpha, the symbolism of the letter Omega has been interpreted various ways throughout history. As “the first” letter, Alpha has become associated with leadership and dominance, i.e., an “Alpha Male” or an “Alpha Dog.” Omega, as the final letter, has been known to connote greatness in its own way, representing the culmination or ultimate expression of a great effort or undertaking. The Biblical connotation of “I am the Alpha and the Omega” - i.e., the beginning and the end, as spoken by Jesus in the Book of Revelation (below) - has also lent weight to the concept of Omega as representing the end of an epoch or, in more ominous but perhaps more horologically relevant terms, the End of Time. So what does all this have to do with a watch brand? Let’s start at the...

Diving Lake Michigan with Jason Heaton and the New Benrus Ultra-Deep Worn & Wound
Sep 20, 2023

Diving Lake Michigan with Jason Heaton and the New Benrus Ultra-Deep

Within sight of the Chicago skyline, I stepped off the gunwale of the 47-foot Seaquest II into Lake Michigan and deflated my buoyancy wing. We’d left the dock in Hammond, Indiana under a moody sky and spitting rain, but after an hour’s cruise, the clouds parted and the lake’s surface flattened out. The sun cast filtered shafts of “God light” onto the skyscrapers in the distance, the last view I saw before descending 50 feet into the blue-green depths. I followed the yellow mooring line down to where it was tied in to an auger on the lake bed. And then, there it was: a ship’s anchor, standing proud of the mud. It was coated with algae and quogga mussels but was unmistakable, looking like the archetypal sailor’s tattoo, with a five-foot shank and one fluke pointing to the surface it hadn’t seen in over a century. An intact anchor on a shipwreck is a thrill for any diver and if I wasn’t already chilled from the 59-degree water I’d have gotten goosebumps. To mark the moment, I looked down at my left wrist. The Benrus Ultra-Deep diving watch nestled under the cuff of my thick glove read 9:14. The Great Lakes, a chain of five huge inland seas that hold over 20% of the world’s freshwater, have provided a connected passage for cargo and passenger vessels since the early 19th century. Ships have carried coal, iron ore, lumber and grain between the American states and Canadian provinces that border the lakes, as well as beyond to Europe through the St. Lawrence...

Highlights: Sotheby’s Paris “Fine Watches” Online Auction SJX Watches
Christiaan van der Klaauw planetarium along Sep 16, 2023

Highlights: Sotheby’s Paris “Fine Watches” Online Auction

Sotheby’s Fine Watches has just opened online, marking the start of the fall auction season. Curated by the auctioneer’s Paris office led by Benoit Colson, the sale promises a diverse selection of vintage and contemporary watches from establishment names like Rolex and Breguet, along with a handful of independent watchmakers. While the complete catalogue boasts 160 lots, we have put together a selection of interesting highlights ranging from value-buy complications like a Breguet rattrapante chronograph to the unusual first-generation Christiaan Van Der Klaauw planetarium, along with a very nice vintage Rolex GMT-Master ref. 6542. And for European buyers, Sotheby’s is notable for being the sole global auction house conducting watch auctions within the European Union – majority of such sales are in Geneva and London – which gives clients the chance to purchase watches without the hassle associated with import taxes. Fine Watches takes place online September 15-29. All the watches will be on show at the preview exhibition inside Sotheby’s Paris office located at 76 Rue du Faubourg Saint Honoré. Registration for bidding and the catalogue can be found on Sothebys.com. Lot 363: Rolex GMT-Master ref. 6542 in yellow gold The Rolex GMT-Master ref. 6542 was mostly in stainless steel with the distinctive “Pepsi” bezel. However, the present lot stands as out for being in yellow gold with a brown bezel and matching dial with nipple-shaped hour markers. Dating to 1958,...