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Time+Tide
The Grand Seiko SBGW323 pairs the hue of the purple kiri flower with the brand's famed Mt. Iwate dial texture - all within a 36.5mm 44GS case.The post Grand Seiko’s 36.5mm 44GS gets a purple “Kiri” dial with the new SBGW323 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Grand Seiko introduced the Tokyo Lion’s bold, angular case design in 2019 and since then, additional editions have multiplied its aesthetic -limited and regular production-the most recent being the 2024 Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE307 Tokyo Lion and the Spring Drive Chronograph GMT SBGC275. This year, the Grand Seiko Sport collection expands by unveiling a […]
Worn & Wound
I love a worldtimer complication, if only because it allows me to envision a timeline in which I’m a spunky world traveler who isn’t afraid of losing my passport or getting lost in the desert. Something about seeing the names of all the places I haven’t been to (yet) on my watch is a surefire cheer-up when the world inside my apartment starts feeling a little small. Pair that global functionality with mature, elegant styling, and you have the new NOMOS Glashütte Club Sport neomatik Worldtimer. Measuring at a democratic 40mm with an equally accessible 20m lug width, the Worldtimer’s stainless steel case is kept slim and simple-so slim, in fact, that it claims to be one of the world’s thinnest worldtimer watches. NOMOS Glashütte’s proprietary caliber DUW 3202 neomatik movement is to thank for 4.8mm of the impressive 9.9mm total thickness of the watch and is still robust enough to offer the NOMOS swing system with DUW regulation and 100m of water resistance. And while all of this is remarkable in its own right, the German brand has more than impressive mechanical achievement up its sleeve with the Worldtimer. Functionality is straightforward, and while the dial layout is a bit different from the enthusiast favorite Worldtimer NOMOS has been making for years, the pushbutton ease of cycling through world time zones will be familiar to anyone who has experienced one of those earlier watches. Just press the pusher at 2 o’clock until your current time zone is a...
Deployant
Next up, Jaeger-LeCoultre. We focus our view on two highlights, both from the Reverso collection. The Geographic and the Minute Repeater.
Deployant
its 5pm in Geneva, and we are on our 6th appointment. This time at Tudor to see the new releases from this iconic brand. We pick two highlights
Deployant
Our next appointment is at Hermès. And as with our Live from WWG25 series this week, we bring you for our visit and you see this live from the PalExpo.
Monochrome
IWC is busy this year rolling out new iterations of its Ingenieur, a collection that underwent a major revamp in 2023 to resurface with its Gérald Genta heritage intact. The watch we’re introducing today comes with a fun story involving actor Brad Pitt and the upcoming movie F1. What was initially a prop watch for […]
Worn & Wound
Much to the chagrin of my fellow automotive enthusiast friends, I am not an ardent Formula 1 follower-I prefer motorsports of the all-wheel drive variety, coated in mud in the Finnish wilderness. Still, the allure of the screaming engines, blinding speed, and pure bling of Formula 1 isn’t lost on me. Millions of fans worldwide are captivated by the sport and its entrants for a reason-and TAG Heuer, the official timekeeper of Formula 1, has nine new references to match that ever-growing fervor. In celebration of the colorful 1986 origin of the brand’s Formula 1 Collection, the new models feature bright hues and a reimagined design. Three of the nine pieces feature the more “classic” dial colors of black and white or blue on a steel bracelet. The remaining six are limited edition colorways: black and red, black and yellow, blue and black, white and green, white and red, and green and red. According to TAG Heuer, each model pays direct homage to the 1986 collection in design and function. However, key changes reflect contemporary taste-instead of the original 35mm, the new cases (constructed of sandblasted steel or TH-Polylight depending on the model) measure 38mm but retain the sporty aesthetic that the line is known for. The original shield-shaped markers have also been modernized, appearing now as applied and Super-Luminova-treated indexes. The “Mercedes”-style hands carry on, as does the chunky 60-second scale bezel, date window at 3 o’clock, and agg...
Deployant
Piaget unveils a series of trapeze watches which is deeply rooted in the maison's historical codes. Dubbed Sixtie, this novelty comes in three flavours.
Monochrome
The Big Crown Pointer Date, an important piece in the history of Oris since 1938, has lived through various iterations over the years, evolving with the times to introduce changes and improvements but always faithful to the spirit of the original. In 2021, Oris introduced a 38mm Big Crown Pointer Date model powered by calibre […]
Deployant
Our next stop is Parmigiani Fleurier, one of our favourite brands. This is our touch and feel session with handling impressions and live photographs.
Monochrome
Montblanc‘s appreciation for Minerva‘s heritage drives its evolution as a watchmaker. The brand embraces Minerva’s time-honoured craftsmanship and savoir-faire by celebrating traditional techniques while exploring the possibilities of modern horology. This commitment is again evident in the newly unveiled 1858 Geosphere Annual Calendar, a timepiece poised to become a standout addition to Montblanc’s collection with […]
Deployant
Highlights of the novelties from Norqain. Live handling of the watches from Geneva, showcasing the new Wild One Skeleton 39mm
Fratello
Since 2021, Nomos has been steadily expanding its Club Sport Neomatik collection. The first reference was the 42mm Date, which came on a new three-row bracelet. Each year since then, a new size has joined the brand’s sportier collection. You can now choose between the Nomos Club Sport Neomatik in 34, 37, 39, and 42mm […] Visit Introducing: The Nomos Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer Makes A Fantastic Landing to read the full article.
Monochrome
In 2022, we went as far as to consider the Tudor Black Bay Pro GMT the best tool watch we have seen that year, impressed by its cool design, ultra-robust construction and fair price. A perfect adventure watch, solid and legible, with a GMT complication for travellers – a do-it-all, wear-it-everywhere. This year, this Tudor […]
Deployant
The new releases from Louis Moinet. A revisit to the invention of the chronograph by Louis Moinet in 1816. Live photographs and handling notes from Geneva.
Fratello
Audemars Piguet is famous for using ceramics in its Royal Oak line. Some of the many highlights include the ceramic Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar and Double Balance Wheel Openworked models. When it comes to specific colors, the first two that come to mind are the black and electric-blue shades that most of you will know. […] Visit Audemars Piguet Introduces Three Royal Oak “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” Models to read the full article.
Monochrome
The Streamliner collection was introduced by H. Moser & Cie in 2020 and was an overnight success. Its groovy integrated cushion design was fresh, original and brilliantly executed. Since its inception, we’ve seen a wide range of time-only, perpetual calendar, tourbillon and chronograph models, and even several fascinating skeletonised iterations. Moser also loves to play […]
Worn & Wound
It’s a big year, literally and figuratively, for the Black Bay. This year, Tudor has introduced the all new Black Bay 68, continuing with a naming convention that began with the Black Bay 58 all those years ago. The new Black Bay 68 fills out the range of vintage inspired Black Bays with an all new size for the range, coming in at 43mm. According to Tudur, the new size was created to meet demand from customers who wanted a dive watch with a larger footprint. After the Black 58 and Black Bay 54 (both under 40mm) and the longstanding “standard” Black Bay coming in at 41mm, the Black Bay 68 represents genuinely new ground for the collection in terms of size, and signals that the small watch trend that many say started with the Black Bay 58 might be coming to an end. If you’re familiar with the various forms of the Black Bay, there won’t be too many surprises here. The case is stainless steel with a unidirectional black bezel, with dial options in blue and silver. The dials are subtly domed and have a barely-there radially brushed finish, and are matched with large lume filled hour markers. The hands are the now familiar “Snowflake” style launched in 1969. While the case is 43mm, the important thing to note about these watches is that they are proportionally identical to the Black Bay 54 and Black Bay 58. So, in spite of the larger size, they wear in a way that feels quite familiar if you’ve spent any time at all with either of those earlier Black Bays. Accor...
Time+Tide
The most romantic of complications features in the new Reverso Tribute piece.The post The Reverso Minute Repeater showcases Jaeger LeCoultre’s Métiers Rares in the best light possible appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
A new color for the line also brings in a few significant updates like a five-link bracelet and METAS certification.
Time+Tide
The first sunburst BB58 gets a sultry red makeover.The post Does a sunburst dial defeat the retro purpose of the new burgundy Tudor Black Bay 58? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
First appointment for the show, from Grand Seiko. This article is going live as we see the watches being presented at the Grand Seiko Booth.
Hodinkee
The brand's most casual watch just got a lot more serious. Serious and fun.
Monochrome
Patek Philippe introduces a new and powerful manual-winding calibre for the equally new Calatrava 8 Day Ref. 5328G. As you have gleaned from the name, the new twin barrel movement delivers an impressive 192-hour or 8-day power reserve. While the watch is officially a Calatrava, it shares traits with the more casual aesthetic of the […]
Monochrome
The Tudor Pelagos was released 13 years ago, under the reference 25500TN. A highly capable diver made of titanium, it was the brand’s answer to the Sea-Dweller, a true tool for diving, with a proper instrument-like design. This 500m dive watch has evolved over the years, receiving a manufacture movement and a blue dial in […]
SJX Watches
Known for good looks and good value, Nomos has just introduced a new version of its popular dual-time complication, the Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer. Thanks in part to the new DUW 3202 automatic movement, the Worldtimer offers a rare combination of functionality, robustness, and slimness. Available in two colourways, dark blue or silver, the latter with a ‘Pepsi’ home time scale, the Worldtimer comes on a stainless steel bracelet and is rated to 100 m, making it quite versatile. Initial thoughts I have a soft spot for Nomos, and I like the brand’s unique approach to making sporty watches. Instead of going after the usual macho design cues like dive bezels and tachymeters, the brand has instead taken its signature Bauhaus-inspired design and just bulked it up a bit. This approach resulted in the Club Sport collection, and I was immediately intrigued to see this line-up expand to include the Worldtimer. Key to the Worldtimer’s appeal are its dimensions, which measure a compact 40 mm by 9.9 mm. That makes it quite thin for a dual-time watch, but despite its slim form it still manages a full 100 m of water resistance. And for added security, the crown features a red anodised ring to alert the owner when the crown has been left unscrewed. The stainless steel case is paired with a simple three-link bracelet that is quite bland and probably the weakest element of the design. The dial features a central disc with a sunray finish in either silver or dark blue, surrounded...
SJX Watches
For the first time since 1998, and for only the second time in the nearly 100-year history of its most iconic model, Jaeger-LeCoultre has squeezed a world timer into the Reverso. The result is the Reverso Tribute Geographic, which features a demure primary dial with an outsize date on one side and an exquisite world time display on the other. The Geographic is available in a stainless steel case with a blue dial or as part of a 150-piece limited edition in 18k rose gold featuring a chocolate brown dial. Both models share the same dimensions, which are unfortunately a bit on the large side. Initial thoughts There’s a lot to like about the Reverso Geographic. Reversos like this that hide a complication on the second dial are deeply appealing to me, and carry with them the thrill of keeping a secret. It also gives the watch a split personality, enabling the wearer to choose the dial that matches their mood. While I immediately liked the concept of the Geographic, I was slightly disappointed to see the dimensions, which match those of the Reverso Tribute Chronograph launched in 2023. At 49.4 mm long by 29.9 mm wide, the Geographic is among the larger Reversos, meaning it loses some of the intended vintage charm. That said, the size is a consequence of its functionality – a smaller case size would make the world time display unreasonably small. One of the things I liked about the Tribute Chronograph that also applies to the Geographic is the fact that it’s very much a sle...
Hodinkee
Bright colors! Oh, and finally a metal bracelet.
SJX Watches
The anniversary celebrations continue at Vacheron Constantin, which has introduced 270th anniversary versions of the Patrimony Self-Winding and Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date featuring asymmetric guilloche-style dials depicting the Maltese Cross. Both models are part of Vacheron Constantin (VC)’s 270th anniversary collection, with the simple automatic limited to 370 pieces each in either 18k white or rose gold, while the retrograde date limited to just 270 pieces in each metal. Initial thoughts This watch is all about its dial, which it shares with the Traditionnelle. I liked the look immediately, which is subtle yet appropriately self-referential for such an occasion. I often find the Patrimony to wear on the large side, given the expansive dial and slim bezel, but in this case I think the asymmetry of the dial design helps shrink the watch visually. The Patrimony Self-Winding duo Both references stick to roughly the same dimensions of their standard production counterparts, 40 mm by 8.65 mm thick for the simple automatic, and 42.5 mm by 9.7 mm for the retrograde date. Both sets of figures are on the larger end of the spectrum for dress watches, but this sizing should work well to highlight the special dial. Despite their functional differences, both models share the same automatic base caliber from the cal. 24xx movement family, which is configured either for central seconds or to accommodate the retrograde date mechanism. This 4 Hz movement platform has a relat...
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