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Beads of Rice Bracelet

Mid-century steel bracelet with discrete bead-shaped links; Gay Frères, NSA, Novavit; modern Forstner revival.

The Pink Dial Project Auction Lot Overview: The big box brands Time+Tide
Oct 16, 2021

The Pink Dial Project Auction Lot Overview: The big box brands

Whenever an auction catalogue is released, many collectors scavenge through the lots to find unique or prototype pieces. Whether a piece unique, or watch #00, the pieces present ultra-rare finds for bidders – and, as we all know too well, ultra rare equals super collectible. But what if there was an auction entirely comprised of … ContinuedThe post The Pink Dial Project Auction Lot Overview: The big box brands appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: Two new Grand Seiko Sport Collection Automatic GMTs (and why I immediately bought one) Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Sport Collection Automatic GMTs Oct 15, 2021

INTRODUCING: Two new Grand Seiko Sport Collection Automatic GMTs (and why I immediately bought one)

You ever wish a watch brand does something and then it actually happens? Not some slightly related version of your wish but the actual thing. It’s such an amazing feeling, that for a moment in time it feels like you and the brand are perfectly in sync (almost like they are directly responding to a … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Two new Grand Seiko Sport Collection Automatic GMTs (and why I immediately bought one) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Cartier Introduces the Santos-Dumont Extra-Large “Dubai Watch Club” SJX Watches
Breguet hands were historically found Oct 15, 2021

Cartier Introduces the Santos-Dumont Extra-Large “Dubai Watch Club”

A collectors’ club based in the United Arab Emirates, Dubai Watch Club recently announced the latest special edition for its members. Based on the largest version of the Cartier wristwatch launched last year, the Santos-Dumont Extra-Large “Dubai Watch Club” is a distinctive new take on the classic design. Featuring a salmon dial inspired by the Santos-Dumont 90th Anniversary limited edition of 1994, the Dubai Watch Club version features Eastern Arabic hour numerals as is tradition for special editions made for the region. Initial thoughts A large but elegant watch, the Santos-Dumont XL is appealing in its original form, albeit looking very much like a classical Cartier. The Dubai Watch Club edition injects novelty into the design without doing too much. In fact, the only changes to the watch are the dial colour and hands, although Breguet hands were historically found on many Cartier models. But the best feature of the dial is the colour of the numerals, which are rendered in a dark red that was meant to mimic Cartier’s house colour. Notably, red numerals were traditionally found only on platinum watches, while the Dubai Watch Club edition is steel. The case material means the special edition is an easily affordable US$7,500, but that’s a moot point as the watch is available only to members of Dubai Watch Club. Dubai style Founded by local collector Adel Al Rahmani, Dubai Watch Club has some 120 members in its ranks. The club has commissioned a handful of speci...

Patek Philippe Introduces the Split-Seconds Chronograph Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5204R SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Oct 14, 2021

Patek Philippe Introduces the Split-Seconds Chronograph Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5204R

A variant of a longstanding reference in the Patek Philippe catalogue, the Split-Seconds Chronograph Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5204R-011 is only set apart by its slate-grey dial, but unusual nonetheless – it’s the sole model in Patek Philippe’s Grand Complications collection in that colour, where the predominant colours are silver, blue, black, and a splash of salmon. Initial thoughts Historically the split-seconds seconds chronograph with perpetual calendar in gold was often paired with a silver dial. But as the new World Time Chronograph ref. 5930P illustrates, Patek Philippe is continuing to add new colours into the regular catalogue, instead of reserving them for limited editions or special orders. The rose gold version of this reference is already available with a black dial as the ref. 5204/1R, but matched with a weighty and flashy rose gold bracelet. The new ref. 5204R in contrast is a relatively low key watch, which will appeal to anyone who wants a “Grand Complication” that’s, well, low key. The colour palette of the new ref. 5204R is a familiar because it works well. This makes the ref. 5204R the most appealing version of the model currently available; it is certainly more striking than the conservative model with a silver dial. That said, I do wish Patek had taken the opportunity to redesign the dial slightly, perhaps with slimmer hands and a moon phase display on the top of the lower register. As it is, the moon phase display leaves the dial bottom he...

Patek Philippe Introduces the World Time Chronograph Ref. 5930P SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Oct 14, 2021

Patek Philippe Introduces the World Time Chronograph Ref. 5930P

Patek Philippe just launched a trio of new chronographs, all variants of existing models. While the ref. 5905/1A in steel is the most affordable, the World Time Chronograph ref. 5930P-001 is surely the most striking with its emerald-green guilloche dial (which is a brighter shade than the olive green of the ref. 5905/1A or Nautilus ref. 5711/1A-014). And despite a dial colour that’s novel for a world-time model, the ref. 5930P does hark back to historical world-time watches with its silver cities ring. Initial thoughts The ref. 5930P is only a different take on an existing model, but it’s certainly a vivid new look. Past versions of the ref. 5930 were either subdued (which was the original in blue) or too much (the Singapore edition in red). The ref. 5930P in emerald green appears striking but just right. A key point of appeal is the silver world-time ring that gives it a look that more closely resembles vintage world time watches, which is a good thing for anyone who appreciates historical Patek Philippe design. This contrasts with earlier versions of the ref. 5930, both of which had tone-on-tone world-time rings, making them less prominent. Notably, Patek Philippe historically utilised such bright colours only on limited editions, so the ref. 5930P is an unusual watch amongst the standard offerings. That said, with green being the most fashionable colour of the year, it goes without saying that the ref. 5930P will be mostly unavailable for the near future. Emerald g...

HANDS-ON: The TAG Heuer Carrera Twin-Time 41 is a clean, robust and sporty-elegant GMT Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Carrera Twin-Time 41 Oct 14, 2021

HANDS-ON: The TAG Heuer Carrera Twin-Time 41 is a clean, robust and sporty-elegant GMT

One of the most sought after complications by buyers is the GMT, a watch that can track two or more time zones on the wrist. With complication though can come cost, especially when we enter the realm of big-name luxury brands. But there are exceptions to the rule, and TAG Heuer has just proven this … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The TAG Heuer Carrera Twin-Time 41 is a clean, robust and sporty-elegant GMT appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Unpacking Jaeger-LeCoultre’s mysterious new film with British actor Nicholas Hoult Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre s mysterious new film Oct 14, 2021

Unpacking Jaeger-LeCoultre’s mysterious new film with British actor Nicholas Hoult

News that Jaeger-LeCoultre have teamed with British actor Nicholas Hoult on “a new short film” is intriguing. After all, if a recipe is only as good as the quality of the ingredients, French director Théo Gottlieb has a couple of hand-picked treats straight from that over-priced deli that you only go to on really special … ContinuedThe post Unpacking Jaeger-LeCoultre’s mysterious new film with British actor Nicholas Hoult appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

2021 Concorso d’Eleganza Villa d’Este On Lake Como, Italy: Sensational Cars, Breathtaking Scenery, And Beautiful A. Lange & Söhne Watches  Quill & Pad
A. Lange & Sohne Oct 13, 2021

2021 Concorso d’Eleganza Villa d’Este On Lake Como, Italy: Sensational Cars, Breathtaking Scenery, And Beautiful A. Lange & Söhne Watches 

A. Lange & Söhne sponsors the world's most luxurious vintage car event, the Villa d’Este Concorso d’Eleganza, and has done so since 2012. The event has taken place every year (except one) on gorgeous Lake Como in Italy since 1929. Elizabeth Doerr went to the 2021 event and shares her impressions of the elegant event with us here.

HANDS-ON: The Zenith Defy Classic Skeleton “Night Surfer” Time+Tide Edition marks five firsts for the collection Time+Tide
Zenith Defy Classic Skeleton “Night Oct 13, 2021

HANDS-ON: The Zenith Defy Classic Skeleton “Night Surfer” Time+Tide Edition marks five firsts for the collection

Collaborative limited-edition watches between brands and publishers are all the rage right now, their saturation within the marketplace creating some cynicism towards their value outside of being rather rare and collectible. I can’t speak for other publishers and the brands they work with, but what I can say with absolute certainty is that when Time+Tide … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Zenith Defy Classic Skeleton “Night Surfer” Time+Tide Edition marks five firsts for the collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Oris introduce their first ever Big Crown ProPilot Big Date in bronze Time+Tide
Oris introduce their first ever Oct 13, 2021

Oris introduce their first ever Big Crown ProPilot Big Date in bronze

Oris has been on a bronze rampage over the past year, with attractive releases such as the limited edition Carl Brashear calibre 401 and “Fratelloris” Big Crown, as well as the standard production Cotton Candy collection of Sixty-Five divers. While the material has become less of a novelty move for manufacturers, I fully welcome the … ContinuedThe post Oris introduce their first ever Big Crown ProPilot Big Date in bronze appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Beauty in the Beast - the Royal Oak Offshore Revolution
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore was Oct 13, 2021

Beauty in the Beast - the Royal Oak Offshore

When it was first released in 1993, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore was called The Beast. A bold and seemingly brutish take on its famous older sibling, the Offshore seemed destined to live up to its name. But it didn’t take long for people to find beauty in the beast. By the 2000s the Offshore had found its place in the world - comfortably strapped onto the wrists of superstars like Schwarzenegger and rap superstars like Jay-Z.

Pol Roger Sir Winston Churchill 2012 Champagne: It Matches The Hype. And Then Some Quill & Pad
Oct 12, 2021

Pol Roger Sir Winston Churchill 2012 Champagne: It Matches The Hype. And Then Some

As Sir Winston Churchill said, "My tastes are simple: I am easily satisfied with the best." He would surely have been more than satisfied with this brilliant Pol Roger Sir Winston Churchill 2012 champagne. The great man also thought that a magnum of champagne is the perfect size for two gentlemen to have over lunch, especially if one isn’t drinking. But what is his relationship with this great champagne house?

5 things to know about No Time To Die and James Bond’s future according to the Omega CEO Time+Tide
Omega CEO Oct 12, 2021

5 things to know about No Time To Die and James Bond’s future according to the Omega CEO

The obvious place to begin this article would be to wax lyrical about Daniel Craig’s performance in this, his last, unintentionally drawn-out yet still seminal outing as the world’s most philandering spy (sorry Austin). But then that would be unfair on the true hero of No Time To Die – 007’s timepiece. Wary a large … ContinuedThe post 5 things to know about No Time To Die and James Bond’s future according to the Omega CEO appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The story behind our Night Surfer – a Zenith Defy Classic Skeleton with five premieres and limited to 100 pieces Time+Tide
Zenith Defy Classic Skeleton Oct 12, 2021

The story behind our Night Surfer – a Zenith Defy Classic Skeleton with five premieres and limited to 100 pieces

When I say ‘our’ there in the title; ‘our’ Night Surfer, a nickname this watch adopted early on when the vertical gradient of the dial and star came together, I mean it. The amount of collaboration that went into this extraordinary watch is hard to adequately describe in a short written post. So in anticipation … ContinuedThe post The story behind our Night Surfer – a Zenith Defy Classic Skeleton with five premieres and limited to 100 pieces appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Horizon Watches Debuts with the Horizon Diver SJX Watches
Blancpain Fifty-Fathoms Oct 12, 2021

Horizon Watches Debuts with the Horizon Diver

The latest crowdfunded maker of affordable dive watches, Horizon Watches was founded by a veteran of the micro-brand scene, Fred Bekher, a designer who has penned dozens of watches for horological startups. Mr Bekher’s first design for his own brand is the Nautilus, a dive watch with an Art Deco-meets-steampunk aesthetic. Though the model name sounds like something else, it takes inspiration from literature, specifically the submariner commanded by Caption Nemo from Jules Verne’s Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea.  “While I was reading [the novel] as a child, I would imagine how the Nautilus looked like”, Mr Bekher says of his love for sci-fi and the steampunk world of Verne’s works. Initial thoughts The model name aside, the Nautilus is an original design – it manages not to look like anything else – which is an achievement in the space of affordable dive watches. It’s also thought in form, something that’s evident in the dial and case construction, notable for a watch that starts at US$350. And the design is appealing, most notably the Art Deco font and the smartly-disguised date. And smart it is: the date window is sized identically to the hour markers, while the date disc is entirely “lumed”, so it glows just like an hour marker. That said, some details do inevitably call to mind other, more famous dive watches, namely the Breguet Marine in terms of the dial and the Blancpain Fifty-Fathoms for the bezel, but as a whole the Nautilus passes ...

The DWISS M3W Wandering Hour Limited Edition Time+Tide
Casio n Maybe Oct 12, 2021

The DWISS M3W Wandering Hour Limited Edition

How should a watch brand celebrate its 10 year anniversary? In an industry where peers disappear left and right, something extraordinary should mark such a momentous occasion. Maybe a party letting the world know how great you are? Or securing a fantastic bit of product placement?  For DWISS, the best way to celebrate was to … ContinuedThe post The DWISS M3W Wandering Hour Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Original Sinn – A close encounter with the legendary U1 dive watch Time+Tide
Sinn Oct 11, 2021

Original Sinn – A close encounter with the legendary U1 dive watch

What is probably the most important and significant Sinn U1 dive watch has surfaced in Wellington, New Zealand. The Sinn U1 is one of the most recognisable and respected dive watches available today.  With its almost Bauhaus utilitarian dial, iconic syringe hands and bead-blasted Tegiment Submarine Steel case, this watch is no pretender, flexing in … ContinuedThe post Original Sinn – A close encounter with the legendary U1 dive watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Swatch Goes Vintage with the 1984 Reloaded Collection SJX Watches
Casio n Swatch constructed Oct 11, 2021

Swatch Goes Vintage with the 1984 Reloaded Collection

Launched in 1983 – with the driving force behind its conception being Ernst Thomke, the then-chief of movement manufacturer ETA – Swatch set out to be the antithesis of the traditional Swiss-made watch. Cased in plastic and quartz, the Swatch watch was cheap, cheerful, and vividly colourful. But it was a hit, with its unusual, funky styling making the Swatch a fashion statement – a million watches were sold in the first year. To celebrate the occasion, Swatch constructed a 13-tonne, 162 m-long mega-watch and hung it from the front of the Commerzbank skyscraper in Frankfurt. A homage to London’s Big Ben, the giant clock was a brilliant publicity stunt that boldly announced the ambitions of Swatch. The oversized watch indicated the time and three pieces of information: “Swatch”, “Swiss”, and the retail price of “DM60”. Now Swatch is remembering 1984 with a quintet of watches, each a recreation of the year’s bestsellers, but with a twist. Instead of plastic as the originals were, the remakes have cases of Bioceramic, while the straps are made of bio-sourced plastic – making the entire watch a little friendlier to the environmental than the 1980s originals. Initial thoughts Given the diverse and imaginative offerings at Swatch, it’s unusual for the company to reissue vintage watches, though it’s done a couple in the recent past. Interestingly, the 1984 collection resonates with the broader, luxury-watch market, which frequently returns to past hit...

MICRO MONDAYS: The Arctic Explorer Signature Series from Tool Watch Co. Time+Tide
Oct 11, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: The Arctic Explorer Signature Series from Tool Watch Co.

What constitutes the ultimate tool watch for you? Should the case be made of durable materials? Do you want a movement that’s robust, reliable and easy to service? Should the size be small enough so it’s not prone to daily encounters with a door jam? It’s these type of questions that Tool Watch Co. (I … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Arctic Explorer Signature Series from Tool Watch Co. appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Trilobe Nuit Fantastique & Trilobe x Daniel Buren La Réciproque Clock: Take Your Time Telling Time Quill & Pad
Trilobe Oct 10, 2021

Trilobe Nuit Fantastique & Trilobe x Daniel Buren La Réciproque Clock: Take Your Time Telling Time

Trilobe, in collaboration with French conceptual artist Daniel Buren, created a clock with an aesthetic designed to jar you awake for the Only Watch 2021 charity auction. And Trilobe's Nuit Fantastique, currently competing in the Petite Aiguille category of the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève, represents the next step in aesthetic direction for Trilobe. Joshua Munchow takes a closer look at both.