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Lug-to-Lug

The single most important wristwatch fit dimension, more practical than case diameter. Comfort thresholds and reference numbers.

3 Tudors that got everyone talking in 2019 Time+Tide
Tudor s Jan 9, 2020

3 Tudors that got everyone talking in 2019

2019 was an exciting year for Tudor, as the iconic Swiss watchmaker released several models that collectively surprised and even inspired the greater horological community. And while some of the novelties unveiled last year were contentious at the time, I think people’s attitudes have softened towards them and, more importantly, it’s just great to see … ContinuedThe post 3 Tudors that got everyone talking in 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Flyback Chronograph SJX Watches
Montblanc Jan 9, 2020

Up Close: H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Flyback Chronograph

Luxury sports watches are a fad that numerous watchmakers are trying their hands at – with varying degrees of success. H. Moser & Cie. is the latest brand to try its hand at a sports watch. While the fact is not a surprise, since the company has been dropping hints about it for over a year, the product is unexpectedly well executed and different. Limited to 100 pieces but with future variants in the works, the Streamliner Flyback Chronograph is a “bull’s head” chronograph with the buttons at two and ten o’clock and a “racing” style dial. The Streamliner is characterised by an unusual cushion-shaped case and integrated bracelet, creating a design that brings to mind watches of the 1970s and 1980s, but still manages to be novel in the crowded luxury sports watch segment. Importantly, Moser also got the functional aspects of the watch right: the case is water-resistant to 120m, and the chronograph pushers can be operated underwater to the same depth. The Streamliner on the wrist of Moser CEO Edouard Meylan Fond memories Designed by Marcus Eilinger, a freelance designer whose recent work includes watches for IWC, Montblanc and Huawei, the Streamliner brings to mind interesting, maybe even great, watches of the past that are now forgotten, so it looks fresh. Edouard Meylan (left) with designer Marcus Eilinger. Photo – H. Moser & Cie. While Streamliner’s case is reminiscent of chunky 1970s chronographs made by the likes of Omega, Heuer, and Longines, the integ...

These were the 3 most expensive watches sold on eBay in 2019 Time+Tide
Jan 8, 2020

These were the 3 most expensive watches sold on eBay in 2019

eBay, the largest online auction website in the world and, rather notably, the first site in the world to support peer-to-peer transactions, is of course a complete leviathan. In 2019 alone, there was nigh on 200 million active users across the globe and more than 1.2 billion listings. So, as you can probably imagine, to … ContinuedThe post These were the 3 most expensive watches sold on eBay in 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Two years after its release, this Tissot is still one of the best value propositions on the market Time+Tide
Tissot Jan 8, 2020

Two years after its release, this Tissot is still one of the best value propositions on the market

Editor’s note: When you’re looking to buy your next watch, you want to know you’re getting great value for the money you’re spending. This Tissot Seastar 1000 could still be one of the best value watches on the market after its release at Baselworld 2018, and there’s no sign of that changing. Let’s take a … ContinuedThe post Two years after its release, this Tissot is still one of the best value propositions on the market appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Porthole perfection: Our top 5 Hublot watches from 2019 Time+Tide
Hublot watches from 2019 Horological Jan 8, 2020

Porthole perfection: Our top 5 Hublot watches from 2019

Horological disruptors Hublot were on a veritable roll last year, releasing a great many new and innovative timepieces that once again show why they are making waves in the watch world. Here are a few special wristwatches that caught our eye. HUBLOT BIG BANG UNICO TEAK ITALIA INDEPENDENT TITANIUM Limited to just 100 pieces, the … ContinuedThe post Porthole perfection: Our top 5 Hublot watches from 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: Longines Heritage Classic Chronograph 1946 SJX Watches
Longines Heritage Classic Chronograph 1946 Jan 8, 2020

Hands-On: Longines Heritage Classic Chronograph 1946

Longines’ determination to churn out affordable vintage remakes is going strong, despite having just unveiled the Heritage Classic Sector Dial and then the Heritage Military 1938 late last year. Previewed last year but only just officially launched, the Heritage Classic Chronograph 1946 sticks to the same formula – reproduce a desirable Longines wristwatch and price it modestly – but is unusual in being the first vintage-inspired chronograph since the Avigation BigEye of 2018. More unusually, it’s a good-looking remake of an odd-looking vintage watch, purportedly from 1946, in the Longines Museum that combines elements not usually found together. Whatever the case maybe with the historical inspiration, the design of the remake has been sleekly refined. Heritage Classic Chronograph 1946 Like other remakes, the 1946 won’t win any prizes for imagination, but it’s a good-looking remake that gets the details right. The basis for the remake is a watch from 1946 in the company’s museum, which was most probably powered by the famed cal. 13ZN flyback chronograph movement (which was succeeded by the equally famous cal. 30CH in 1947). Introduced in 1936, the cal. 13ZN represented the cutting edge of chronograph technology at the time, being the first serially produced chronograph movement to incorporate a flyback function. Catered for sportsmen and aviators, the flyback function allowed the wearer to reset the chronograph without having to stop it first. As a rather...

AP expert @horoloupe warns against writing off the Audemars Piguet CODE 11.59 Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet CODE 11.59 First Jan 8, 2020

AP expert @horoloupe warns against writing off the Audemars Piguet CODE 11.59

First of all, I think it is wonderful news for Audemars Piguet to have had such a strong run at GPHG and Only Watch, but to be completely honest, I expected it. The RD2 winning the Aiguille d’Or was no surprise to me as it is hands down one of the favourite watches in my … ContinuedThe post AP expert @horoloupe warns against writing off the Audemars Piguet CODE 11.59 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

New Steel Omega Speedmaster 321 “Ed White” Just Announced (ref. 311.30.40.30.01.001) Two Broke Watch Snobs
Omega Speedmaster 321 “Ed White” Jan 7, 2020

New Steel Omega Speedmaster 321 “Ed White” Just Announced (ref. 311.30.40.30.01.001)

Omega has delivered on what the Speedmaster community has been demanding for a while now. The big difference between the previous Omega 1863 Caliber and the new Omega 321 Caliber is that the 321 has a column wheel actuator for the chronograph. This is in contrast to the 1863 Caliber's cam-actuated chronograph function.

INTRODUCING: The Longines Heritage Classic Chronograph 1946 Time+Tide
Longines Heritage Classic Chronograph 1946 Jan 7, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Longines Heritage Classic Chronograph 1946

2020 has barely begun and Longines has already come out swinging with this - the Longines Heritage Classic Chronograph 1946. Representing the latest addition to the Swiss watchmaker’s ever-popular Heritage Collection, the Classic Chronograph 1946 is a faithful re-creation of a timepiece Longines produced back in the ’40s. The pared-back aesthetic of this homage piece … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Longines Heritage Classic Chronograph 1946 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Solar flair: Which Seiko Astron is right for you? Time+Tide
Seiko Astron Jan 6, 2020

Solar flair: Which Seiko Astron is right for you?

Never has a watch encapsulated the phrase “one watch to do it all” more than the Seiko Astron series. Here is a timepiece with an accuracy rating of ±15 seconds per month and a power reserve of no less than 6 months, that can also do the following: Automatically adjust the handset position alignment Host … ContinuedThe post Solar flair: Which Seiko Astron is right for you? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Why the Universal Genève Polerouter was the game-changing dial from the 1950s Time+Tide
Universal Genève Jan 5, 2020

Why the Universal Genève Polerouter was the game-changing dial from the 1950s

Some watches take the world by storm the moment they are released. Some, however, take a little while longer to be appreciated. The true significance of the Universal Genève Polerouter, first released in 1954, and its subsequent offshoots are still in the process of being properly recognised. Not only was it the first really significant … ContinuedThe post Why the Universal Genève Polerouter was the game-changing dial from the 1950s appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

How It’s Made: Inside The Breguet Castle Of Complications – Reprise Quill & Pad
Breguet Castle Jan 5, 2020

How It’s Made: Inside The Breguet Castle Of Complications – Reprise

Few get to check out Breguet’s factory from the inside, and those who do generally don’t get to take photographs of what they see. This modernized factory in the heart of the remote Vallée de Joux with its many annexed hallways, secretive doors, and interesting manufacturing capabilities has long been a jealously guarded secret. Elizabeth Doerr reveals what's behind the doors at Breguet.

Coming off third best: 4 great bronze watches from 2019 Time+Tide
Jan 4, 2020

Coming off third best: 4 great bronze watches from 2019

One of the most polarising materials to make a return to prominence in watchmaking over the last couple of years has been bronze. Why does this ancient material cause so much conjecture when it’s used as a timepiece’s case material? Well, for a start, it can’t come into direct contact with your skin for prolonged … ContinuedThe post Coming off third best: 4 great bronze watches from 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Interview: Julien Tornare, CEO of Zenith SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin where his last job Jan 3, 2020

Interview: Julien Tornare, CEO of Zenith

In mid 2017, Julien Tornare, became chief executive at Zenith, maker of the famed El Primero chronograph. This came after a 17-year stint at Vacheron Constantin, where his last job was running the brand’s operations in Asia, its most important market by a large margin. At Zenith, Mr Tornare was called upon to revitalise a brand that had been drifting for some time. Zenith was clinging on too tightly to the past – namely the landmark El Primero – to the exclusion of everything else the brand had achieved. The diversification beyond the El Primero is exemplified by the Defy, a product crucial to the brand’s resurgence. The collection swiftly became a bestseller since its debut two years ago, but also boasts a milestone for the industry at large with the radical silicon oscillator in the Defy Inventor. The Defy Inventor During the El Primero 50th anniversary event that took place late last year in Singapore, I sat down with Mr Tornare to discuss his vision for Zenith, and how his start-up approach to running the brand has helped propel it into the new decade. The interview was edited for length and clarity. It has been two years since you took over at Zenith. Do you think you’re past the toughest part of the job? The toughest was probably at the beginning; getting the team on board with my vision was the most challenging. You can only develop a brand when you have everybody with you, and when you come from an entirely different brand, that takes some time. The firs...

Letter from the Deputy Editor: 2019 in review Time+Tide
Rolex Dec 31, 2019

Letter from the Deputy Editor: 2019 in review

As we float about in the liminal space between Christmas and the new year, it’s a great chance to reflect on the year that the watch world was in 2019. Andrew mentioned in his Letter from the Editor that 2019 could be defined by the hysterical focus on SSR (stainless steel Rolex), as well as … ContinuedThe post Letter from the Deputy Editor: 2019 in review appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.