Deployant
Review with new video: Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Vianney Halter II
We requested for samples to be sent to us as loaners for review. Here are our thoughts after spending two weeks with the watches.
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Deployant
We requested for samples to be sent to us as loaners for review. Here are our thoughts after spending two weeks with the watches.
Time+Tide
Hamilton's helmet-cased behemoth nods to the genesis of the automatic chronograph.The post Hamilton’s Chrono-Matic 50 is an homage to the great race for the automatic chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Continuing with our series focused on the mechanical chronograph – we already explained the vertical and horizontal chronograph clutches, along with the advantages and shortcomings of each – we now turn to another vital component but rarely discussed: the chronograph reset mechanism. While the clutch enables energy transmission between the base movement and chronograph, it plays no role in returning the chronograph indicators to a zeroed position. This is accomplished by an altogether separate mechanism that is synchronised with the clutch action but functions independently. The reset mechanism indexes all the chronograph indicators (hours, minutes, and seconds) back to the zero position, and keeping them securely in place until the chronograph is started once again. Any reset mechanism generally comprises of two main components: a heart cam and reset hammer. The two interact based on clever geometry and illustrates mathematics is often the underlying basis of watchmaking, or more specifically, movement construction. The chronograph works of a Breitling B01 movement, with the reset heart cams (12, 13, and 17) in purple. Image – Breitling patent The heart cam Named after its distinctive outline, the heart cam is a seemingly simple component that is in fact the product of some ingenious engineering. While the cam has a turning axis and is a rotational system – in other words, it revolves on a fixed axis – a clear analogy can be made with linear systems. In order to...
Monochrome
Following the introduction of the Evolution 9 collection, with a new generation of mechanical and Spring Drive movements in 2020, Grand Seiko released a watch that will become a hit, the White Birch SLGH005. With its impressive dial, newly designed case and innovative movement, the watch made quite an impression… So much so that it […]
Time+Tide
Ever-Brilliant Steel surrounds the icy blue dial, with a high-beat movement rapidly ticking away in the back.The post Grand Seiko debuts the Evolution 9 SLGH027 with a brand new Mt. Iwate dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
This November, Sotheby’s will celebrate the 250th anniversary of the foundation of Breguet in Paris in 1775 with a dedicated auction.The post Sotheby’s announces the largest auction dedicated to Breguet timepieces in over 30 years appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Andrew sits down for a candid chat with Anoma founder Matteo Violet-Vianello about the experience of delivering his first model, the A1.The post Anoma finally delivers its first model, the A1, with surprising results appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Moser's surprisingly versatile Pioneer Tourbillon gets a luxe fumé burgundy twist.The post Fumé dial masters H. Moser & Cie reveal a delicious burgundy Pioneer Tourbillon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
It's so much more than a carrot at the end of your AD's waitlist. Don't believe me? Ask the drivers who've won a Daytona (and those who haven't).
Worn & Wound
If you’re an aspiring photographer looking for advice on equipment, technique, or anything else related to producing the best photos possible, you’ll almost certainly come across YouTube videos, blog posts, and forum discussions relating different versions of the same broad maxim: It’s Not About the Camera. This line, and its cousin, “the best camera is the one you have on you,” is repeated so often in photography circles I’m surprised I haven’t seen it emblazoned on novelty t-shirts and hats. It’s not bad advice, necessarily, but it’s about as generic as the old watch enthusiast credo, “Buy What You Love.” OK, easier said than done if what you love is, I don’t know, complicated vintage Pateks, or if you’re new to the hobby and what you “love” isn’t so readily identifiable. For years, with an understanding that the camera didn’t matter, I thought that my own photography was just incredibly bad. Whether my photos were taken on an iPhone (I’ve had so many iPhones), or any number of point and shoot, digital SLR, or mirrorless cameras, the shots produced never quite looked very good to me at all. Sure, I could grab a decent iPhone wrist shot if the light was helping me out, but my little experiments in photography over the years never took. I never developed a feel or a taste for it, stuck in a loop of equipment that I felt like I was fighting against and images that I didn’t like the look of enough to even consider that they could be impr...
The Breitling Navitimer is probably the first name you think of when the subject of pilot's watches comes up. Here's a bit of its history.The post Built for the cockpit, the Breitling Navitimer is a true pilot’s watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Urwerk refines its entry-level offering with the UR-100V Magic T Hunter Green that showcases a metallic ash green dial matched with a sandblasted case and bracelet. Entirely in titanium, the new UR-100V is sleek, matte, and lightweight. The new model remains mechanically identical to the standard UR-100V, and retains the distinctive satellite disc hour display, where the hour indicator advances along a curved 120-degree track graduated for 60 minutes. Initial thoughts Building on the ongoing expansion of the UR-100V series, the Magic T “Hunter Green” adopts the same sanded, shot-blasted titanium case as the original Magic T - but now rendered in metallic ash green. Though the new model has more contrast, it still retains the muted, low-key aesthetic found on the all-grey original. While the model itself has appeal, Urwerk has arguably introduced too many iterations of the UR-100, each distinguished by only subtle variations, since the model’s debut in 2019. This has made the model line confusing, and leaving each individual edition less distinctive. As with other UR-100 models, the “Hunter Green” is an entry-level model in the Urwerk catalogue and priced CHF58,000, or a third of the recent flagship UR-230 Polaris. This and other UR-100 models provide enthusiasts with the chance to experience Urwerk’s signature complication and advanced case making at a relatively accessible price. Restrained green Apart from the green finish, the “Hunter Green” remains id...
Fratello
Welcome to Panerai’s latest release, the PAM01643 Radiomir 8 Giorni. This is not just any Radiomir 8 Giorni; oh no, this is the Eilean Experience edition. When Panerai says “experience,” you get an experience. In this case, you get to live the Sicilian life, complete with a cruise on the namesake 1936 yacht and an […] Visit Introducing: The Panerai Radiomir 8 Giorni Eilean Experience LE PAM01643 to read the full article.
Monochrome
The cool Rado Captain Cook Over-Pole is back! Dating back to models from the 1960s, this evocative name was used for several Rado models, in particular, travel watches with a world time bezel – while the Captain Cook name immediately refers to the brand’s vintage-inspired dive watches. The Over-Pole came back in 2022 as a […]
Monochrome
The Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry has just released their export statistic for 2024 – December ended the year on a negative note with exports down 5.4%. For the year as a whole, the Swiss watch industry exports recorded a decrease of 2.8% compared to 2023. Following two years of robust growth and all-time […]
Time+Tide
Just as they helped us raise money in 2020 for Australian bushfire relief, William Wood is chipping in to help out with the LA fires.The post William Wood to auction unique Fire Exit Watch in support of the LA Fire Department Foundation appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Launched in late 2023, the Tourbillon Cardan marked Greubel Forsey’s pivot to more classical watchmaking, away from the sports watches that defined it for several years. Staying true to its speciality, the Tourbillon Cardan is a fancy tourbillon: it’s equipped with an inclined, high-speed tourbillon making one revolution every 16 seconds, with the tourbillon suspended in a pair of cardan, also as a universal joint or gimbal, similar to the suspension used in marine chronometers. The set-up swivels the tourbillon back and forth as the carriage makes it 16-second rotation, which theoretically optimises the position of the balance wheel while the watch is on the wrist. Initial thoughts The Tourbillon Cardan is classic Greubel Forsey in many ways, bringing to mind the various exotic tourbillons the brand has released over the years. The watch is big, huge in fact, but stands out with engaging visuals thanks to the multiple motions of the gimballed tourbillon. There’s a lot to see on the open dial, which is not only complex and dynamic but also offers an appealing depth. The depth is a consequence of the thickness of the watch, which is substantial – over 18 mm high with the crystal, necessary to accommodate the tourbillon. Despite the size, the watch is lightweight as the case is titanium, but it still feels chunky but that’s almost expected for a Greubel Forsey. The compact Nano Foudroyante EWT, on the other hand, is atypical of the brand. Though the colours are mon...
Worn & Wound
There is always a risk when a product gets an upgrade (Crystal Pepsi, anyone?), but this is especially a touchy subject in the watch world. We, as collectors and enthusiasts, tend to keep things as they are. Small updates? Sure. Bold colorways? Absolutely. But being told there is a completely new design? Well, now I’m a bit weary. Luckily for me, I’ve been proven wrong by Farer. They’ve recently relaunched their GMT Bezel collection, boasting – you guessed it – a completely new design. Previous iterations of this model were a core offering of the brand, showcasing the balance between bold design language and a classic case style. Now, we see a new (and dare I say improved?) set of GMT Bezels on the market, whose main feature is the concave “ski-slope” lugs first seen on the Chrono-Contempo Collection. If variety is the spice of life, then the GMT Bezels are pretty damn spicy. Coming in two size options (40mm and 38mm) and four colorways, this is a series that has a bit of something for everyone. I’ll review each of the four color options briefly, giving you a taste of how distinct – and yet cohesive – each reference feels. For the 40mm models, one can choose from Maze and Crooms options. Maze has a pearlescent grid patterned dial complemented by shades of glossy black, light blue, and red. Crooms exemplifies Farer’s in-house design language, with a clean overall design and a bold colorway mixed with additional pops of color. With its burgundy dial i...
Monochrome
Fire can be an absolutely devastating, unforgiving thing. We’ve all seen the harrowing images coming from LA, where wildfires have been wreaking havoc through large swathes of the coastal city. Thousands of people have lost everything, abandoning their homes and lives to escape the fire, with many tragically losing their lives as well. In a […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Since its high-profile revival in 2012, the Seiko Astron has continuously evolved in both its technical capabilities and in its size and overall aesthetics. As I explore in greater detail in this little treatise on the Astron models and their esteemed history, the founding member of this modern, solar-powered, GPS-equipped Astron family debuted in an imposing 47mm case in steel, with one dial option, in matte black. Since then, Seiko has refined the elements that necessitated the large dimensions and limited colorways — i.e., reducing the size of the quartz movement’s GPS-reception antenna and improving the efficiency of the dial’s solar cell — and the result has been a plethora of intriguing interpretations. The latest and perhaps most distinguished in terms of colorway dropped just recently. The Astron GPS Solar SSJ029 and Astron GPS Solar Chronograph SSH171, both limited editions of 1,500 pieces, feature glittering, violet-hued dials that Seiko says are inspired by “cherry blossoms blooming under the stars.” Both of the new watches have cases and bracelets made from titanium and treated with an extra-hard, scratch-resistant black coating that emphasizes the night-sky motif that these models are shooting for aesthetically. The cases are 42mm in diameter, 12.4mm thick, and 47.9mm lug to lug — the result of the aforementioned streamlining since the oversized original’s debut. The dials’ gradient purple colors are enhanced by a sprinkle of starry glitter...
Hodinkee
The Technical Director and Movement Constructor at Biver will discuss the processes that transform raw materials into exceptional mechanical timepieces.
Fratello
With our long-lasting Thursday vintage column rebranded, it would be criminal not to look back closely at my 2024 watch-collecting moves. Here are some highlights: my obsession with vintage Gallet chronographs goes on (with room for impulse purchases still there), and I invested more in research, lost motivation to share on social media, and struggled […] Visit Retrospective: Tomas Reflects On His Watch-Collecting Decisions Of 2024 to read the full article.
Monochrome
Fears Watch Company, initially founded in 1846 in Bristol (UK), thrived as a family-run business for over a century before closing its doors in 1976. In 2016, Nicholas Bowman-Scargill, the great-great-great-grandson of its original founder, revived the brand, bringing new life to this historic name. Nicholas happens to be an early supporter and friend of […]
SJX Watches
A monochromatic reinterpretation of Ulysse Nardin’s skeleton watch with a prominent “X”, the Blast “Amoureuxpeintre” is a collaboration with Vsevolod “Sever” Cherepanov, a Kyrgyz streetwear designer also known as Amoureuxpeintre who was one of the first to use augmented reality prints on fabric. Restrained and minimalist, the new Blast has a 42 mm sandblasted titanium case and an unusual frosted sapphire dial that partially hides the skeletonised “X” movement, leaving the calibre only faintly visible. According to Ulysse Nardin, the artist drew inspiration for the design from frosted glass panels found in offices. Initial thoughts Renowned for pioneering silicon components in mechanical watchmaking with its groundbreaking Freak, Ulysse Nardin has made some odd design choices in recent years, including the decision to make the letter “X” a centrepiece of its designs. The collaboration with Amoureuxpeintre hides the “X” and transforms the Blast case into something low-key with its all-black finish, and the result is a surprisingly different, and appealing watch. Styling aside, the latest Blast is typical Ulysse Nardin in terms of mechanics, which is to say accomplished. Although the Blast collection does not share the same status or historical significance of the Freak, it still demonstrates Ulysse Nardin’s commitment to contemporary horology with a high-spec, in-house movement that has all of its regulator – hairspring, balance, escape, and pal...
Quill & Pad
Everyday wines are very much a budget/quality/preference equation and you should always ensure you have sufficient of these available. Pointy end wines are those for special occasions and family events. These are the wines you want to be good for your cellar or wine fridge.
Worn & Wound
It’s long been a goal of the Worn & Wound team to use our platform to support charitable causes. Despite making philanthropic contributions from time to time over the years, we’ve never really used the full might of our platform to make an impact. And so I am very excited to share with the Worn & Wound community our partnership to support the 2025 Ride to Conquer Cancer. Before we get to the details…a little backstory. In 2023, at the NYC Windup Watch Fair, I got to chatting with friend, designer, and fellow watch-nerd, Matt Smith-Johnson. Matt’s been coming to Windup for as long as I can remember to support projects he’s worked on (like this, this, and this) or just basking in the watch tsunami that is the Fair. In the course of catching each other up on our lives, my sister’s then-recent breast cancer diagnosis came up (she’s doing great, btw!), which prompted Matt to share something I found really incredible. For nearly a decade, Matt has taken part in the Ride to Conquer Cancer, a two-day, 200+ kilometer cycling event through Southern Ontario, Canada, which raises funds for the Princess Margaret Cancer Centre-one of the world’s leading cancer research institutions. Needless to say, I was inspired by his commitment to the cause. The Ride to Conquer Cancer, launched in 2008, has raised over $300 million for cancer research and care, including $20.6 million in 2024 alone. Each year, more than 5,000 participants come together to support advancements in tr...
Worn & Wound
In this video, we take a closer look at the dressed up Italian diver from Venezianico, the Nereide 42 Stone Dial Avventurina. Is this piece all show and no substance or does it actually stack up again the competition at its sub-$1,000 price point? In this video, we take a closer look at the dressed up Italian diver from Venezianico, the Nereide 42 Stone Dial Avventurina. Is this piece all show and no substance or does it actually stack up again the competition at its sub-$1,000 price point? The post A Eye Catching Stone Dial Dive Watch For Under $1,000 – Venezianico Nereide Review appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Monochrome
Let’s get up close and personal… We have already explored the revamped IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 in detail when it was launched in 2023, the same year that the Schaffhausen-based brand decided to give this long-lasting collection its 1976 Genta-inspired design back. More recently, what is now a strong contender in the luxury sports watch […]
Hodinkee
The famed menswear designer joins Mark and Ben to discuss brand building, collaborations, and stepping outside one's comfort zone.
Worn & Wound
Edward East was one of the most successful and distinguished London clockmakers of the 1600s. He was a shrewd businessman and brilliantly talented artisan who earned the high regard of the rich and famous of society. East made his name against the backdrop of one of the most turbulent times in British history. Early Life in the City of London Edward East was born on the 22nd of August 1602 in Southill, Bedfordshire. He was well-educated, and began his training in London, with the guild associated with gold and silversmithing known as the Worshipful Company of Goldsmiths. Edward’s apprenticeship began in May 1617 under the Master Robert Podmore. In March 1618, his apprenticeship was transferred to Richard Rogers through the Goldsmiths’ Company. Rogers lived and worked on London’s Fleet Street, a bustling centre of commerce where many famous clock and watchmakers had already set up business. It was in this lively environment that Edward learned how to work with different metals and trained in specialist skills, such as engraving and ornamentation. He also met one of the leading London watchmakers, Edmund Bull (1585-1622), son of the eminent watchmaker and goldsmith John Bull. At some point, East may have worked as an apprentice for Bull, as there is evidence that he travelled with him on a business trip to Holland during this time. Pear-shaped watch in a rock crystal case. Gilt-brass dial engraved with the Nativity and a figure of Time. Made by Edward East, London, c....
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