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Andersen Genève Introduces the Heures du Monde “Asprey” SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Sep 17, 2022

Andersen Genève Introduces the Heures du Monde “Asprey”

Once a London institution that’s been in business for over two centuries, Asprey was a storied retailer of all manner of luxury goods in its heyday. Now owned by an American private outfit, Asprey has lost its lustre, but on vintage watches the name still carries magic – a 1950s Patek Philippe ref. 2499 bearing the Asprey logo on the dial sold for a record sum in 2018. Now Andersen Genève is trying to recapture some of that magic with a double-crown world time wristwatch made made specifically for the London retailer: the Heures du Monde “Asprey” with a blue-gold guilloche dial bearing the Asprey signature at six. The engine-turned pattern on the dial is inspired by the bottles of perfume once sold by Asprey Initial thoughts The Asprey world time has a look of Andersen, an old-school, classical style that brings to mind the 1980s and 1990s. For anyone who likes that retro style, it’s a good thing since there are not many modern-day watches with such aesthetics. Still, being a special edition, the Asprey world time has to set itself apart. It does so only modestly, first with the flared lugs that were previously only used for other Andersen models, and second with the hand-made guilloche dial with a unique lozenge pattern in Andersen’s signature “blue gold”. But arguably the most important element is the signature at six o’clock, one that echoes vintage, retailer-signed world time watches from the likes of Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin. With ...

The Rolex Day-Date you never knew existed Time+Tide
Rolex Day-Date you never knew Sep 16, 2022

The Rolex Day-Date you never knew existed

Rolex is known for being fairly conservative and calculated these days. Sure, there are a few exceptions like the recent falcon’s eye dial for the Yachtmaster, say, or their colourful expressions with their gem-set watches like the leopard and rainbow Daytona watches. But, more often than not, their novelties involve incremental updates – slight refinements … ContinuedThe post The Rolex Day-Date you never knew existed appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

George Clooney and Hyun Bin showcase the Omega Speedmaster ’57 Time+Tide
Omega Speedmaster ’57 Omega have Sep 15, 2022

George Clooney and Hyun Bin showcase the Omega Speedmaster ’57

Omega have been at the forefront of vintage-inspired sports watches for quite some time, and the latest revamp of the Omega Speedmaster ‘57 shows what a great place watchmaking is in right now. We seem to have made it through the onslaught of strait-laced vintage reissues, and now their evolutions featuring daring and creative dials … ContinuedThe post George Clooney and Hyun Bin showcase the Omega Speedmaster ’57 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Longines Introduces the Master Collection 190th Anniversary SJX Watches
Longines Introduces Sep 14, 2022

Longines Introduces the Master Collection 190th Anniversary

While it isn’t common knowledge, Longines now 190 years old, making it the longest-established of the seven biggest brands in Swiss watchmaking, besting even its sister company Omega. Historically known for its top-quality chronographs and time-only chronometers, Longines has unsurprisingly delved into its archives to mark the anniversary. The brand has just taken the wraps off the Master Collection 190th Anniversary, a three-hand wristwatch with an unusually elaborate dial for a Longines. And as expected for a commemorative model, it is available not only as a regular production model in steel, but also also a pricier limited edition in yellow or rose gold. The steel version with blued steel hands is an affordable US$2,400 Initial thoughts With compact proportions and an elegantly detailed dial, the Master 190th Anniversary blends various elements drawn from watches of the mid 20th century, giving it an easy appeal. That said, the aesthetics of the Master anniversary are not exactly original – it does bring to mind a variety of other watches. While it’s definitely a vintage-style watch, the Master anniversary is not a reissue – a feat for Longines, a brand that already has several dozen reissues in its catalogue. I find the dial of the new Master more attractive than most of the actual remakes in Longines’ Heritage collection. Those watches typically have good fit and finish, but the anniversary Master is a marked improvement and enhanced by flourishes lik...

INTRODUCING: The Bulova Frank Sinatra Summer Wind Collection Time+Tide
Bulova Frank Sinatra Summer Wind Sep 14, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Bulova Frank Sinatra Summer Wind Collection

Few celebrities hold such strong sway in the public consciousness as the Chairman of the Board, Frank Sinatra. Having dominated both music and film throughout the 1940s to ‘60s, Sinatra’s legacy is firmly cemented through his lasting works as well as his eternal style and demeanour, the latter of which Bulova have captured within the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Bulova Frank Sinatra Summer Wind Collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

IN-DEPTH: The ominous history of the Doomsday Clock Time+Tide
Sep 13, 2022

IN-DEPTH: The ominous history of the Doomsday Clock

We’ve covered some pretty strange watches here on Time+Tide, even a bunch which don’t tell the time, but it’s rare that we discuss something that doesn’t physically exist. The Doomsday Clock is a concept and a symbol which has been referenced across plenty of media forms - from 2 Minutes to Midnight by Iron Maiden … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The ominous history of the Doomsday Clock appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Time+Tide anti-flipper launch of the Bamford G-Shock DW-6900BWD Time+Tide
Sep 13, 2022

The Time+Tide anti-flipper launch of the Bamford G-Shock DW-6900BWD

You might call it a slightly premature house-warming party. The Time+Tide HQ recently moved into Collins Street in the heart of Melbourne’s CBD and, while our new location probably wasn’t totally ready for an event, we couldn’t resist giving our T+T Club Members a sneak peek of our new home nonetheless. The ostensible excuse for … ContinuedThe post The Time+Tide anti-flipper launch of the Bamford G-Shock DW-6900BWD appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Should titanium watches really be more expensive than the steel equivalent? Time+Tide
Citizen unveiled Sep 11, 2022

Should titanium watches really be more expensive than the steel equivalent?

Titanium watches aren’t anything new by any stretch of the imagination. When Citizen unveiled the world’s first titanium wristwatch in 1970, the lightweight and hypoallergenic properties of the metal were an incredible development for the industry, but a lot has changed in the last 50 years. Titanium has been well and truly democratised in the … ContinuedThe post Should titanium watches really be more expensive than the steel equivalent? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Jaquet Droz Introduces the Dragon Automaton SJX Watches
Zodiac Sep 8, 2022

Jaquet Droz Introduces the Dragon Automaton

Already a prolific maker of wristwatches with tiny, intricate automatons – with tropical birds and magic lotus being part of its repertoire – Jaquet Droz has turned to the realm of Middle Earth for its latest creation. Featuring an automaton with nine mechanical animations, the Jaquet Droz Dragon Automaton was designed by Canadian illustrator John Howe. When it comes to dragons and fantasy lands, Mr Howe’s credentials are impeccable. Amongst his past roles was one of the two chief designers of The Lord of the Rings trilogy. And aside from the Dragon Automaton, another of Mr Howe’s most recent works was designing The Lord of the Rings: The Rings of Power, the Amazon production that’s the most expensive television series in history. Initial thoughts Dragons are a common theme on watches, but usually of the East Asian kind and typically in the Year of the Dragon of the Chinese Zodiac – a simple reflection of where most demand for luxury watches originates. A dragon of the European fantasy genre is less common; in fact, I cannot recall another watch that depicts themes from the fantasy genre. This makes the Dragon Automaton unique, both figuratively and literally. The motif is usual and esoteric so its appeal will certainly be niche at best. This version has an onyx dial with a hand-engraved dragon sculpture set against a similarly engraved mountain backdrop – the aesthetic is entirely The Lord of the Rings But that is exactly the point, since each Dragon Automa...

The new Grand Seiko SLGH013 means the 9SA5 x 44GS case combo has arrived in standard production Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SLGH013 means Sep 7, 2022

The new Grand Seiko SLGH013 means the 9SA5 x 44GS case combo has arrived in standard production

Don’t get me wrong. The Evolution 9 case geometry has a stellar aesthetic. But when we first saw Grand Seiko’s innovative and beautiful 9SA5 hi-beat calibre in a case other than the Evolution 9 case, the classic and iconic 44GS case it was found in for their limited edition SLGH009, I immediately knew I wanted … ContinuedThe post The new Grand Seiko SLGH013 means the 9SA5 x 44GS case combo has arrived in standard production appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Benetict Cumberwatches: Why so many watches have overcomplicated names Time+Tide
Sep 7, 2022

The Benetict Cumberwatches: Why so many watches have overcomplicated names

Benedict Cumberbatch, decorated actor, deserves recognition for his work in The Imitation Game, The Power of Dog and Patrick Melrose. Today, however, we’ll poke a bit of fun at something the Internet has been having a go at for years – his name. Re-christened as Blubberbutt Cunningsnatch, Bendyboot Coffeecup and Bendydick Thundersnatch, he’s had a fair share of grief … ContinuedThe post The Benetict Cumberwatches: Why so many watches have overcomplicated names appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Trout fishing in New Zealand with the Draken Kruger SE Time+Tide
Sep 6, 2022

Trout fishing in New Zealand with the Draken Kruger SE

“I’m off fishing next week.” “Right I’ll overnight it to you.”  Timing is everything, and this holds especially true in the horological world.  Mike Blythe, founder of Draken Watches, had just received the first of his updated Kruger model, the Kruger SE, set for release on September 1, and there was a story that needed … ContinuedThe post Trout fishing in New Zealand with the Draken Kruger SE appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands On: Louis Vuitton Tambour Twenty Chronograph SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Tambour Twenty Chronograph Louis Sep 5, 2022

Hands On: Louis Vuitton Tambour Twenty Chronograph

Louis Vuitton is now in its 20th year as a watchmaker. In that time it has gone from basic, ETA-powered watches to a variety of impressive complications, including its signature Spin Time, and even a minute repeater with automaton. To mark the occasion, Louis Vuitton (LV) has just announced the Tambour Twenty Chronograph, a remake modelled on the brand’s first serious mechanical timepiece. The two-decade journey has seen LV’s watchmaking division evolve from a shared space inside TAG Heuer’s factory to its own expansive facility in Geneva that includes not only a complications workshop but also its own dial-making facility. While LV does make some of its own movements now, the Tambour Twenty is a nod to its origins as a watchmaker. The 200-piece limited edition is modelled on the Tambour LV277 of 2003, the brand’s first chronograph that was powered by the Zenith El Primero. Initial thoughts Despite its odd proportions – a big case with tall, sloping sides and narrow lugs – the Tambour case is attractive in my eyes. And it’s distinctive and recognisable although its form is fairly simple. In short, it’s a successful design. The Tambour works especially well with complications since that gives its size – especially its thickness – a sense of purpose. Ordinarily I am not a fan of brown dials, but this is one of the few dials in the colour that looks good. LV executes its dials well – most of them are made in-house – and the reflective metallic brown o...

Up Close: Sylvain Pinaud Origine SJX Watches
Sep 2, 2022

Up Close: Sylvain Pinaud Origine

Sylvain Pinaud entered the independent watchmaking stage in 2019 when he revealed his monopoussoir chronograph that had an unusual dial-side mechanism and a high level of decoration. But he was working on something both more concise and more elaborate all along, the Origine. Launched earlier in 2022, the Origine is a wristwatch that pursues a familiar formula in independent watchmaking – a time-only movement finished extremely well and mostly made by the watchmaker himself, except for the dial and case that are the work of an industry favourite. But Mr Pinaud does it better than most with an original movement construction and gorgeous decoration, though he is clearly still perfecting his brand’s defining aesthetic. NB: The watch pictured is the prototype of the Origine so it is slightly imperfect in terms of cleanliness and detailing. Initial thoughts At first glance, the Origine might seem like one of many time-only rolled out by watchmakers who recently set up their own brands. But it stands apart in several aspects. For one, Mr Pinaud is an experienced watchmaker unlike many nascent independent watchmakers. Now in his forties, he graduated from watchmaking school in 1998 before embarking on a career that took him to Franck Muller as well as Carl F. Bucherer. And then there’s the quality of execution, which is extremely high. Not only is the movement an original construction by Mr Pinaud himself, the decoration is top class. In fact, a major part of the Origine’...

INTRODUCING: Tudor gives the people what they want with new 39mm Pelagos Time+Tide
Tudor gives Aug 30, 2022

INTRODUCING: Tudor gives the people what they want with new 39mm Pelagos

Finally! Look, I have always felt the Pelagos is one of the strongest dive watches on the market. But, afflicted with slender wrist syndrome, the size, while it could work for my wrist, was not optimal. While many enjoy the original 42mm Pelagos, and for good reason, others have shared my sentiment – the people … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Tudor gives the people what they want with new 39mm Pelagos appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Nivada Introduces the Chronomaster “Perpétuel” Second Edition SJX Watches
Nivada Grenchen has unveiled another customised Aug 30, 2022

Nivada Introduces the Chronomaster “Perpétuel” Second Edition

Having launched a “panda” version earlier this year, Nivada Grenchen has unveiled another customised chronograph for its Dubai retailer. Clad in a striking olive-green, the Chronomaster Automatic “Perpétuel” Second Edition once again features Eastern Arabic numerals on the dial and bezel. Initial thoughts While the Second Edition is a repetition of the first in a different colour, it is undoubtedly more striking. Olive green is a fashionable colour today but it works well with the faux-vintage lume and retro style of the watch. More broadly, the vintage-inspired design also suits the calligraphic style of the Eastern Arabic numerals. Like the first edition, the new model costs almost double the standard Chronomaster. It’s a steep premium for a new dial, but the Eastern-Arabic numerals have a unique appeal, particularly in the Middle East. The only downside to the Second Edition is arguably the fact that it came second – some who bought the “panda” without knowing this was in the pipeline might have wanted to wait for this one instead. A sixties design The Second Edition is based on the Chronomaster Automatic, a sports chronograph produced by Nivada in the 1960s. Conceived as a multi-purpose chronograph for both divers and aviators, the Chronomaster is rated to 200 m but also has a countdown bezel and tachymeter scale – this also explains the text above six o’clock. Besides the olive green dial, the key feature of the Chronomaster Perpétuel are the Ea...

The Sequent Smart-Ass is bound to excite your inner couch potato Time+Tide
Aug 30, 2022

The Sequent Smart-Ass is bound to excite your inner couch potato

Smart watches are among the more divisive topics in horological circles. Some call for them to be lynched as they threaten the pure, mechanical souls of their 18th century technology. Others, however tolerate their presence or even claim them to be the future. Whichever camp you fall into, simply calling the Sequent Smart-Ass a smart … ContinuedThe post The Sequent Smart-Ass is bound to excite your inner couch potato appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hautlence Returns with the Linear Series 1 SJX Watches
Hautlence Returns Aug 29, 2022

Hautlence Returns with the Linear Series 1

The sister company of H. Moser & Cie., Hautlence is a maker of highly contemporary watches that’s been on ice for several years as its owners completed Moser’s resurrection. Now Hautlence is making a comeback with a trio of watches led by the Linear Series 1. Adopting the TV-shaped case that’s historically the brand’s signature – but now matched with an integrated rubber strap – the Linear Series 1 features a retrograde hours on a straight-line scale along with a flying tourbillon at six o’clock. Initial thoughts Hautlence was founded in 2004 and found success during the subsequent boom in the luxury watch industry. Its fortunes faded together with that era of good times, so it is perhaps fitting that the brand is now being revived in the midst of another boom. The Linear Series 1 smartly returns to the TV-screen case that defined the brand since its inception. When combined with the open dial it is distinctive at a distance and recognisable as a Hautlence. Naturally the case design has been tweaked for today’s tastes, so it gets an integrated rubber strap. The sporty stance of the new look is appealing, although the integrated strap and folding clasp means it won’t fit perfectly on all wrists. Mechanically the Linear Series 1 is the result of a Moser base movement and an Agenhor module (that was originally developed for RJ-Romain Jerome), so it has solid technical credentials. Besides a retrograde hours, the movement also have a flying tourbillon with do...

MICRO MONDAYS: Julian Michaels’ new releases show the value of breathing space and balance Time+Tide
Aug 29, 2022

MICRO MONDAYS: Julian Michaels’ new releases show the value of breathing space and balance

It’s getting harder and harder to stand out as a microbrand as dozens seem to pop up every week, but the most distinctive examples are always something special. Julian Michaels are the latest brand to forge an individual identity, but they do so without the need for any gimmicks or garish novelties. Instead, Julian Michaels … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Julian Michaels’ new releases show the value of breathing space and balance appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

How did my $200 Seiko become worth $1200? Time+Tide
Seiko become worth $1200? Resale Aug 28, 2022

How did my $200 Seiko become worth $1200?

Resale value is a can of worms like no other, turning the discussion of wristwatches from a matter of taste into an investments debate. On one end of the spectrum are people who are happy to buy watches at their retail price, because they’ve got no plans to sell them as soon as they’re paid … ContinuedThe post How did my $200 Seiko become worth $1200? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Andersen Genève x Asprey Heures Du Monde: An Exquisite Double-Signed Trip Around The World Quill & Pad
Aug 26, 2022

Andersen Genève x Asprey Heures Du Monde: An Exquisite Double-Signed Trip Around The World

Despite having made more than 100 pièces uniques among a grand total of approximately 1,500 timepieces spanning 42 years of a truly inventive career, independent watchmaker and co-founder of the A.H.C.I. Svend Andersen has become particularly known for the worldtimer, a complicated timepiece displaying the time in 24 time zones. Here Elizabeth Doerr shares a brief history of worldtimers and blue gold while looking at the Andersen Genève x Asprey Heures du Monde.

INTRODUCING: The new Longines Master Collection in 34mm Time+Tide
Longines Master Collection Aug 26, 2022

INTRODUCING: The new Longines Master Collection in 34mm

I recently wrote an article about the best 34mm watches that anyone can wear, and although the marketing is mostly feminine-orientated, I believe that the new additions to the Longines Master Collection could well be another option. The new 34mm size presents a great option for those who love classic proportions, and perhaps want something … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The new Longines Master Collection in 34mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

In Depth: Ulysse Nardin Freak S SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Freak S Utterly bizarre Aug 25, 2022

In Depth: Ulysse Nardin Freak S

Utterly bizarre and thoroughly ingenious when it debuted in March 2001, the Freak remains avant-garde even two decades later. But unlike the highly modern creations from brands like De Bethune and Urwerk, the Freak arguably gets less credit than it deserves, simply because Ulysse Nardin isn’t a niche, independent watchmaker. But that takes nothing away from the concept, which has been made more avant-garde than ever. Launched earlier this year, the Freak S is now the flagship model in the Freak line-up. In a first for a Freak, it reimagines the trademark carousel display, which now carries twin inclined balance wheels linked by a differential. Initial thoughts The landmark creation of the modern-day Ulysse Nardin (UN) brand, Freak was and still is interesting because it turns conventional movement construction on its head. Most of the moving parts are mounted onto a carousel on the dial that doubles up as the minute hand, while under the dial sits a massive mainspring that occupies most of the case volume. No other watch combines unorthodox form and function like the Freak even though it was launched in 2001, well before most of today’s best known avant-garde timepieces. That was four years before Urwerk unveiled its satellite-cube hour display, for instance, ensuring the Freak’s place as a pioneering creation. The Freak S (left) and the original Freak from 2001 While the essence of the Freak has been mostly retained over the various iterations since its launch, ...