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New: Breitling Top Time B01 Deus
The collaboration between Breitling and Deus Ex Machina gets an update with two new watches sporting the Breitling Manufacture B01 chronograph movement.
Results for Movement vs Caliber
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SJX Watches
Tissot Introduces the PRX Powermatic 80 35 mm
Tissot’s PRX Powermatic 80 has quickly gained popularity since its introduction more than three years ago as it offers the popular integrated-bracelet aesthetic at an affordable price point. In March, the brand added new dial options to the collection, and now it has added more horological power to the smallest model that’s 35 mm in diameter and was previously only available with a quartz movement. Initial thoughts A slightly disappointing aspect of the PRX collection was the fact that the 35 mm model only had a quartz movement, until now. Now anyone who wants a mechanical movement in a more wearable size is catered for. The overall design of the watch, including its waffle-pattern dial and brushed steel case, remains largely unchanged – a good thing since it is precisely these elements that first captured people’s attention in the first place. The green version stands out as a personal favourite among the new models and I expect it will be a strong seller overall given the popularity of the colour now. Starting at US$695 and going up to US$750 for the mother-of-pearl dial, the new 35 mm models are slightly pricier than the original. While the increase in price is perhaps linked to inflation, compared to many of the other integrated bracelet sports watches on the market, it still offers great value for the overall feel it gives. Now at 35 mm The latest version of the PRX collection introduces a remarkable decrease in size when compared to the original model whi...
SJX Watches
Hervé Schlüchter Debuts with L’Essentiel Regulator
The latest watchmaker to launch a time-only watch with a finely finished movement is Hervé Schlüchter, who makes his debut with the L’Essentiel. A watchmaker who spent most of his recent career as a movement constructor at Bovet, Mr Schlüchter’s entry into the progressively more crowded segment features a regulator-style display with a day-and-night indicator and on the reverse, a hand-finished movement. Initial thoughts Having worked at Bovet and then spent time studying with Philippe Dufour, Mr Schlüchter has the background for a fine watch. Notably, Mr Schlüchter is an actual watchmaker, having trained as a watchmaker and repairer. As a result, the L’Essentiel is arguably purer in concept since it was developed and then produced by a watch-maker, rather than being drawn by a designer or engineer and then outsourced to specialists. The L’Essentiel lives up to expectations in terms of decoration and construction. It has impressively high quality in most respects: the dial is engine turned by hand, and includes fired enamel, and aventurine. The movement shows off lots of black-polished steel, chamfered edges, and polished countersinks. At CHF78,000 before taxes, the L’Essentiel has a decent price-to-quality ratio. But while watch is titled “The Essential”, it is ironically a lot, maybe too much, both stylistically and tangibly. As is increasingly the case with independent watchmaking, the product feels contrived because it wants to be everything that is ...
Worn & Wound
From Designer Eric Giroud, the New Schwarz Etienne Geometry Has One of the Trippiest Dials We’ve Seen
A watch, like any designed object, is the product of a series of decisions, and those decisions can define it. At some point, whoever is making the thing has to determine what type of watch it’s going to be, what sort of movement it will have, the size, the style of handset and indices, the dial colors, and so forth. The most successful watches, in my opinion, are those made by people who have come to tough but deliberate decisions. We’ve all seen watches that feel like they are just too much in one way or another, and they never tend to work. The new Geometry by Schwarz Etienne is literally the watch equivalent of a fully loaded luxury car: when it comes to dial finishes, it has every option. But instead of being too much, it works in a sort of psychedelic way. Whatever you think of it, I think it’s hard to argue that it’s the product of some serious decision making. The Geometry comes to us via designer Eric Giroud, who has previously worked with brands as diverse as Louis Erard, MB&F;, Mido, and many more. The dial is divided into four distinct quadrants, each incorporating different dial finishes and patterns. You can imagine any one of the single quadrants made as an entire dial, and the watch would probably look great. But broken into pieces, you get a sense of how these different patterns and finishes work with and against one another. The fact that it’s somewhat jarring to look at at first is a reminder of the difficulty of watch design in the first plac...
Worn & Wound
Citizen Series 8 Welcomes New 880 GMT Collection
The Series 8 is Citizen’s take on the integrated bracelet sport watch genre that was introduced into the premium end of the brand’s catalog under the The Citizen banner, sporting the brand’s flagship movement developed in partnership with La Joux-Perret. It’s a watch we were quite fond of in our hands-on. This year, the Series 8 is taking a step in a new direction with the addition of this 880 GMT collection using the 9054 caliber, and some slightly familiar color schemes. This is a watch that ticks all meta boxes for the moment, and while it makes a lot of practical sense, has us wondering how it will fit into the broader Series 8 project in the long term. Integrated sports watches and so-called ‘flyer’ or ‘traveler’ GMT complications are certainly having their moment this year, which is great for consumers looking for more options at a wide range of price points. Combining the two seems only natural, however the landscape of integrated cases housing GMT movements is relatively sparse. Citizen brings the two together in this Series 8 880 GMT collection making use of the 9054 automatic caliber, which offers that ‘flyer’ functionality, and offers a higher magnetic resistance than the 9075 upon which it is based. The movement offers plenty of practical features, though will be pushing the price ceiling of watches using other variants. But a watch is more than a movement. There’s a full steel case and integrated bracelet here, which should justify the ...
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Automotive attitude with the TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16
SJX Watches
Schwarz Etienne Introduces the Geometry
While historically a movement and components supplier, Schwarz Etienne has produced timepieces under its own name for some years now. Some of its watches feature original designs with a touch of traditional watchmaking, an example being the recent collaboration with independent watchmaker Voutilainen. Now, it is continuing the collaborative design approach in its latest release, the Geometry. Unveiled as a limited edition in two colourways, this collection showcases a dial penned by Eric Giroud, the designer best known for his work for contemporary brands like MB&F;. Described as “deconstructed”, his dial design takes inspiration from the branch of mathematics that’s all about precise alignment and arrangement of lines to form shapes. Initial thoughts In recent years, a growing number of watch brands, including Louis Erard and Bulgari, have embraced geometric dial designs to produce some standouts in their collections. As evident in its latest creation, Schwarz Etienne also aligns with this trend. What sets the Geometry apart is the combination of traditional decoration with modernist style in its contrasting utilisation of fluted lines and clous de Paris patterns. Between the two iterations, the silver dial is particularly captivating. The subtle contrast between the textures and colours are simultaneously cohesive and balanced, creating something pleasing and elegant out of what could be a very busy dial. With a price tag of US$23,490, the Geometry is expensive i...
Quill & Pad
Naissance d’une Montre 2: A Handmade Future Built on the Foundations of the Past by Oscillon, Greubel Forsey and Urwerk
The Oscillon duo of Buser and Devanthey have created the second release of Naissance d’une Montre with the Naissance d’une Montre 2. Using Oscillon’s own L’instant de vérité caliber as a base, one already designed to be made entirely by hand, the Naissance d’une Montre 2 brings the glory of the past to something that would make sense in any futuristic setting.
Hodinkee
Introducing: A Special Rolex Daytona For The 100th Running Of The 24 Hours Of Le Mans (With Live Pics From The Race)
Paul Newman vibes from a new white gold Cosmograph with a race-specific movement.
SJX Watches
Rolex Introduces the Cosmograph Daytona “Le Mans” Ref. 126529LN
Having surprised everyone with the Perpetual 1908, “Bubbles”, and “Puzzles”, Rolex continues to do the unexpected. Launched to mark the 100th year of the 24 Hours of Le Mans, the Cosmograph Daytona ref. 126529 LN is a new model based on the latest-generation Daytona launched earlier this year. But the Daytona “Le Mans” is not merely a facelifted chronograph but contains the cal. 4132. The new movement swaps out the conventional 12-hour counter at nine for a 24-hour register in a nod to the famous endurance race that Rolex has sponsored for over two decades. But perhaps most pertinent for enthusiasts are sub-dials, which are modelled on the vintage Daytona “Paul Newman”. And while availability for the Daytona “Le Mans” will be limited, at least initially, it is a regular-production model that will be available at retailers and boutiques. Initial thoughts A new Daytona with a new movement is big news not because it’s majorly different – this is still very much a Daytona – but because Rolex rarely introduces new models outside of the annual watch fair in Switzerland. And when it does, the watch tends to be a surprise in more ways than one. The new Daytona is actually new, largely because contains a new calibre, a simple variation of the current Daytona movement, but one that is mechanically different nonetheless. The movement reflects the Rolex approach to engineering that does nothing in half measures. Even though the cal. 4132 inside the Daytona ...
Deployant
Review of the new Breguet Military Type 20 and Civilian Type XX
Breguet Military Type 20 and Civilian Type XX watches are reviewed, highlighting their craftsmanship, movement, and distinct features.
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Is Rolex Better Than Tudor? SUBMARINER Face-Off: Rolex 1680 v. Tudor 94110 Snowflake
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Redwood Tactical V2 Stealth: An Affordable Solar Quartz Winner
A quick review of the Redwood Tactical V2 Stealth dive watch with a solar quartz movement. See specs, pricing, photos, and more.
SJX Watches
Seiko Introduces the Prospex Speedtimer 1/100 Sec Solar Chronograph
Drawing inspiration from the Kinetic Chronograph of 1999, Seiko’s latest is the Prospex Speedtimer 1/100 Sec Solar Chronograph. It is equipped with a new solar movement that has the ability to measure elapsed time with a resolution of up to 1/100th of a second, though its defining attribute is the design: the chronograph and time displays are separated into individual sub-dials. The SFJ007 made for the 2023 World Athletics Championships Initial thoughts Seiko’s sports chronographs, particularly those equipped with quartz or solar-powered movements, receive less recognition than their higher-end counterparts. However, some of the brand’s recent endeavours in this segment are interesting, and this is one of them. The primary point of interest in the new model lies in its unique aesthetic with a separated sub-dial design that fans of the brand recognise from the Kinetic Chronograph. The new Speedtimer reimagines the design with a smart and highly-functional movement and price tag of well under US$1,000, making it a compelling option for someone seeking an affordable sports chronograph. The Kinetic Chronograph from 1999. Image – Seiko Up to 1/100th of a second Having done away with the original closed dial of the Kinetic Chronograph, the Speedtimer features four registers beneath a curved sapphire crystal. Positioned at six is an oversized sub-dial displaying the time, while a 1/10th of a second chronograph sits at ten. The running seconds can be observed at 12, and a ...
Worn & Wound
Accutron Spaceview Gets Modern Evolution
Accutron revived their famous electrostatic movement with a modern Spaceview in 2020, tapping into a heap of nostalgia in the process. This year, the Spaceview is getting its first major update with the release of the Spaceview Evolution, pushing the aesthetic concepts of the watch into new territory. The new variants retain every bit of the drama embraced by the original (both from the ‘60s, and from 2020), and dial up the ‘style’ factor thanks to some new finishes and color schemes that compliment the exposed components of the electrostatic movement. It remains as polarizing as ever, which is a refreshing move these days. The new Spaceview Evolution offers a pair of new flavors that bring a light and a dark appearance to the platform. The biggest shift you’ll notice right off the bat is the rotated orientation of everything on the dial. This is due to the 30° counter clockwise rotation of the movement, which alters the dial layout, and moves the crown from the 3 o’clock position to the 2 o’clock position. The move opens up the top portion of the dial a bit further, bunching the three large apertures into the bottom dial’s bottom half. In addition to the layout rotation, the bridge work that frames the exposed areas of the movement, as well as the chapter ring at the perimeter, have received a healthy dose of finishing work, both to their surface and to their edges. The sprawling framing bridge shape gets a guilloche look with diamond polished bevels, whi...
Worn & Wound
Seiko Reveals New, Trimmer King Seiko References
Seiko is continuing to refine their modern King Seiko collection with a series of iterations seen in a pair of new references: the SJE089, and the SJE091. The evolution may not be visible at a glance, but a closer look reveals a new date-equipped movement at use, a slimmer case, and a slightly altered profile, all done in the service of ergonomics. The result is a new King Seiko that measures just 10.7mm in thickness, shaving a few tenths off the first releases we saw in 2022, while adding a date complication at the same time. Overall the design is still heavily referential to the original 1965 King Seiko KSK, which has a special place in Seiko history that you can read more about in our introduction of the 2020 LE that set the template for the modern references we enjoy today. The new King Seiko references bring a date back to the dial at 3 o’clock thanks to the caliber 6L35 inside, which is making its first appearance in the main King Seiko collection. This is the most notable difference from the initial SPB King Seiko references launched last year, which used the 6R31 movement. The SJE references land a bit closer to the original as a result, and remain relatively demure with the same silver and black dial options. The case is what really deserves a closer inspection here. It remains steel and measures 38.6mm in diameter, however features a new trimmer lug profile that integrates a bit more seamlessly to the case via the large, flat surfaces that define its shape. T...
Time+Tide
The Accutron Spaceview Evolution is a more decorative twist on the Spaceview 2020
New Accutron Spaceview Evolution is literally a twist on the Spaceview 2020 Movement orientation has shifted 30 degrees, offering a new dial aesthetic and crown placement at 2 o’clock New decoration style for dial-side of the movement with “knurled” bridge detailing Accutron’s claim to fame is the fact that they were the first to offer … ContinuedThe post The Accutron Spaceview Evolution is a more decorative twist on the Spaceview 2020 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Why Cartier Watches Are For You - Drive, Tank, Calibre, Panthere...
Deployant
Review: the new Horage Lensman 2 Exposure
In this balanced review of the Horage Lensman 2 Exposure watch, we explore its innovative features, including the exposure calculator function, dual material case construction, and the K2 micro-rotor movement. We also discuss the competitive landscape and introduce the Brian Griffin Special Edition. Find out more about this unique timepiece that merges the realms of watchmaking and photography.
SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Introduces the Monaco Skeleton Dial
As has become tradition, TAG Heuer is launching a new Monaco chronograph to mark the annual Formula 1 race in the principality of the same name. While past editions for the Monaco Grand Prix leaned towards vintage in terms of style, the Monaco Skeleton Dial is almost entirely modern. Though the watch retains the trademark Monaco case and even many elements of the dial, it has no practically no dial, most of which has been removed to reveal the movement below. Initial thoughts Just like the recent Monza Flyback and Carrera “Glassbox”, the Monaco Skeleton Dial continues TAG Heuer’s pivot towards contemporary designs that its chief executive Frederic Arnault has indicated is the way forward. This is a good thing, because it allows the brand to move away from being reliant on the vintage-esque sports watches that are all too common in this price segment. The new Monaco itself manages to look very much like a Monaco while still being very different. Despite the seemingly opposite characteristics, everything works well together, although the look is certainly more appealing in the all-black iteration than its siblings. The only caveat is the price, which at about US$11,000 makes this a third more expensive than a Monaco with the same movement and case but a conventional dial. That feels like a bit too much for the open-worked dial, which admittedly required substantial reworking of the movement. Loosely vintage inspired The Monaco Skeleton Dial gets its name from, well, a...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Louis Vuitton Voyager Skeleton Limited Edition
The Voyager case goes bones and all with a brand new automatic time-only skeleton movement.
SJX Watches
Exclusive: Under the Dial of the Patek Philippe Owned by the Last Emperor of China
As I was examining the Patek Philippe ref. 96QL once owned by the last Emperor of China, I wondered about the state of the movement. The watch is clearly old – it was sold in almost a century ago – and was not running. Phillips wasn’t able to show me the movement on the spot, understandably considering the value of the watch, although they promised they would get me some information shortly. Their response was more than I expected. Taking the form of a forensic report detailing the materials and details of the watch – right down to a X-ray spectrographic analysis of the dial – the information reveals much about the watch. To start with, the spectrograph of the reverse of the dial reveals it is 92.4% silver, 6.94% copper, with the rest comprised of silver and gold. This finally answer the long-ago question posed by Puyi when he tasked his manservant “Big Li” to scrape off the dial’s coating in order to see if it is platinum like the case. It is but a brass dial plated in silver. The analysis of the dial’s back Inside the platinum case is an 11”’ movement that likely began as an ebauche from LeCoultre that was then completed by Victorin Piguet, which produced the simple calendar module on the top. The movement was then likely sent to Patek Philippe, which applied the finishing touches and cased it. The back of the movement is evidently classical, with the flowing bridges that were then the norm in movement design. It is also finished as high-end movemen...
SJX Watches
J.N. Shapiro Introduces the Resurgence
Having made a name for himself as a guillocheur, Joshua Shapiro has taken things a step further with the launch of the Resurgence, the most thoroughly American-made wristwatch since 1969. The Resurgence offers several features that are unique within the increasingly crowded field of high-end independent watchmaking. It is a customisable product that offers an almost unlimited number of dial, case, and movement combinations; it’s possible that no two watches will be alike. Almost every aspect of the watch, from the elaborate guilloche dial, engine-turned case, and customisable in-house movement, is surprisingly interesting and original. Initial Thoughts I first met Joshua in 2019 after the launch of the Infinity Series, and even then he was keen to discuss his vision for creating an in-house American-made movement that would live up to the quality of his guilloche work. But I must admit the Resurgence has exceeded my expectations, especially in terms of finishing. As a guilloche specialist, Joshua does not disappoint with the multi-part guilloche dial. Its construction reminds me of the dial found in the Roger W. Smith GREAT Britain, a one-off watch made in 2015 for the British government’s tourism campaign of the same name. But while the construction is similar, the Resurgence dial possesses its own aesthetic that steps out from the shadow of Swiss or British-style guilloche. At US$85,000 in gold and US$70,000 in steel, the Resurgence is priced at the upper end of the ...
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Petermann Bédat Dead-Beat Seconds Calibre 171 Watch
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Watch Review: Zenith DEFY Extreme E 2023 Limited Edition
Discover the Zenith DEFY Extreme E 2023 Limited Edition watch, a remarkable timepiece crafted in carbon fiber and featuring sustainability-inspired design elements. With its high-frequency chronograph movement and recycled parts, this exclusive watch embodies innovation and environmental consciousness. Limited to 100 pieces, it is available at Zenith boutiques worldwide.
Revolution
Vulcain Cricket “Style Moderne” for Revolution & The Rake with Guillaume Laidet
Wei sits down with Guillaume Laidet of Vulcain to discuss the new Vulcain Cricket ‘Style Moderne’ limited edition for Revolution & The Rake. The Vulcain Cricket dates back to 1947 when it was introduced as the world’s first mechanical alarm watch, powered by the now-legendary caliber 120. The alarm worked with a hammer that struck […]
Time+Tide
New Hamilton Khaki Navy Scuba watches come in one green colour, but two sizes
The Hamilton Khaki Navy Scuba adds green to its 43mm and 37mm variants. The 43mm version is a full-spec dive watch with 300m of water resistance. A budget option is available in the 37mm reference, with a quartz movement and NATO strap. Hamilton’s world has revolved around the Khaki Field for several years now, with … ContinuedThe post New Hamilton Khaki Navy Scuba watches come in one green colour, but two sizes appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
WatchAdvice
Hands On With The Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 In Ethical Rose Gold & Lucent Steel
If you’re in the market for a good two-tone sports watch, then the Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 in Lucent Steel and Ethical 18k Rose Gold may just be the watch you’re looking for! What We Love Wearability and comfortTHAT Iris of the Eagle dial!Sturdy, good looking movement What We Don’t Lack of taper on the braceletNo ability for size adjustmentsClasp not easy to open Overall Rating: 8.5/10 Value for money: 8/10Wearability: 8.5/10Design: 9/10Build quality: 8.5/10 Chopard is a brand that’s probably not first on people’s list when they think of a steel sports watch. In fact, it may not be even top three. I know it wasn’t for me, and if you’re like me and think about steel sports watches, then your mind probably runs through a range of brands from Rolex, to TAG Heuer, to Omega, Breitling, Tudor, and the like. But maybe, you should think of Chopard? The Alpine Eagle in 18k Ethical Rose Gold and Lucent Steel As the watch community’s lust for steel sports watches continued to rise, Chopard recognised this and introduced the Alpine Eagle in 2019 – a modern re-interpretation of the 1970s St. Moritz, the first timepiece that was created by (now Co-President of Chopard) Karl-Friedrich Scheufele. And it was a good release. The star of the watch was the Iris of the Eagle dial that if you have seen it in person, is mesmerizing. And let me tell you, it is very cool. For this review, I was lucky enough to get my hands on the two tone variant in Chopard’s 18k Ethical Rose G...
Worn & Wound
The Maurice LaCroix AIKON Master Grand Date Gets Color-Coordinated with the Technicolour
Late last year, Maurice LaCroix debuted the stealthy Aikon Master Grand Date Black, a tasteful amalgamation of their integrated steel sports AIKON collection and their more refined Masterpiece collection, fittingly dressed in black on black attire. Assisted by the gentle use of white dial accents and emblazoned with an open heart display, the AIKON Master Grand Date Black features a distinguishable off-center dial, grand date complication, and a small through-dial window partially revealing their in-house ML331 movement. It’s most certainly a significant step for the brand in terms of blending their different design languages, but a conservative step in regards to the monochromatic aesthetic. We are most certainly aware that Maurice LaCroix knows how to let loose when it comes to the application of vibrant colors throughout their entire range, and with warmer weather and sunny skies afield, it was only appropriate that ML released a more playful take on their AIKON Master Grand Date. The Maurice LaCroix Grand Date Technicolour comes in four different colorways that taps into the vibrancy and playful use of color in their AIKON #tide collection. Now with a wider color spectrum at their disposal, accompanied by high-end watchmaking at its core and a sport watch build, you can in-arguably make the case that the Grand Date Technicolour touches on all design aspects of the brand. The Grand Date Technicolour retains the asymmetric dial configuration that makes these types of w...
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