2,403 articles · 1,936 videos found · page 84 of 145
Monochrome
Bucherer, the world’s leading watch retailer that recently made headlines when Rolex acquired it, has a history of collaborating with various brands to release exclusive editions, and one signature colour has consistently defined these partnerships – Bucherer Blue. Last year, this theme was showcased in a trio of remarkable timepieces from H. Moser & Cie […]
Fratello
Another Friday, another list! Last week, we looked at the rarest Rolex Submariner references. This week, we have shifted our focus to Tudor. We decided to have a look at our favorite five vintage Tudor references. Most people will know the classic Submariner models, but there is plenty more to enjoy from the Tudor brand. […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Vintage Tudor References to read the full article.
SJX Watches
The vertical clutch has become the de facto standard in modern chronograph movements thanks to its mechanical and practical benefits. The widespread and varied use of the vertical clutch is illustrated by the many recent movements that employ the mechanism, ranging from the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona to the Breitling B01 to the MB&F; LM Sequential Evo. The proliferation of the vertical clutch is easily explained by its merits. Having explained the construction of a vertical clutch, we now turn to its advantages over the traditional horizontal clutch (or lateral coupling). Figure 1: A simplified cross section of a vertical clutch A vertical clutch serves to transfer energy from the going train of the movement to the chronograph going train, accomplishing this via a vertical motion. Figure 1 illustrates its key parts: a flywheel (yellow) geared to (or even part of) the going train; a cone (grey) that is linked to the chronograph seconds mobile, and vertically tensioned by a spring (red); a pair of pincers (blue) that engage with the cone, lifting or lowering the cone. When the cone is raised and engaged with flywheel, the chronograph starts running, and when the cone drops and disengages, the chronograph stops. One of the most apparent advantage of the vertical clutch is the low kinetic friction generated during coupling and uncoupling of the chronograph, as friction is produced only by the sliding motion of the pincers and the vertical motion of the cone. The Rolex Cosmogra...
Fratello
I am a big fan of vintage Tudor, as many of you will probably already know. Tudor, to me, is a brand that represents the very best of Hans Wilsdorf’s vision of creating mechanical excellence but without the posh baggage of Rolex. The vintage Tudor Prince Oysterdate “Jumbo” will scratch the Datejust itch but with […] Visit The Tudor Prince Oysterdate “Jumbo” Is A Vintage Value Proposition to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Having already explained the more traditional horizontal clutch (or lateral coupling), we now look forward to the more modern vertical clutch. This is found in some of the most famous chronographs in contemporary watchmaking, including the Rolex Daytona with the cal. 4131 (pictured above), Patek Philippe Nautilus with the CH 28-520, and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph with the cal. 4401. Arguably the most advanced type of chronograph coupling mechanism, the vertical clutch as it is known today was debuted in 1969 by Seiko in the 6139 chronograph. But the concept can be found in late 19th century pocket watches, and even the inexpensive Pierce Chronographe of the 1930s. Today it is practically the default choice for new chronograph constructions. Equipped with the vertical clutch, the Patek Philippe CH 28-520 in the Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph ref. 5990/1A Like its horizontal counterpart, the vertical clutch serves as the mechanical link between the chronograph mechanism and the going train of a movement, allowing power to flow from the going train to the chronograph, which then allows the chronograph to run. While it fulfils the same function, a vertical clutch works differently from the horizontal equivalent, a distinction that comes with its own set of advantages and disadvantages. How it works A chronograph vertical clutch is similar to the clutch found in the manual transmission of some automobiles. The clutch of an automobile enables the intermittent connec...
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Time+Tide
There are a lot of stories in watches, and these four have more to say than most, with a unique Rolex, an early F.P. Journe, and more. The post Phillips Reloaded auction brings the best of neo-vintage to the market appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
The rumours have been swirling for some months that LVMH has replaced Rolex as a key sponsor of Formula 1. As we noted in our July editorial, that wasn’t true yet. According to a source inside F1, LVMH and Formula One Group are on the cusp of a multiyear sponsorship deal starting in 2025. The French luxury group will join Lenovo and Santander as the latest sponsors of F1. Once signed, the deal will mean that LVMH takes the place of Rolex, which had been “Global Partner” of F1 since 2013. The group is not new to F1. TAG Heuer is now a sponsor of Red Bull Racing, while Dior only just signed up Lewis Hamilton as a brand ambassador. But now the group’s many brands – 75 at last count – could stand to gain even more exposure with F1. Marques like Moët & Chandon, Hublot, Loro Piana, and of course Louis Vuitton would have the chance to share in the increasing viewership of the sport, which has been steadily growing its presence in pop culture since it was acquired American media conglomerate Liberty Media in 2017. Besides adding races in glamorous cities like Miami, F1 is now the subject of a hit television series on Netflix. And a film starring Brad Pitt, titled F1 naturally, will premiere on Apple TV next year. LVMH Watch Division chief Frédéric Arnault (third from left) at the 2023 Monaco Grand Prix with the drivers of Red Bull Racing. Image – TAG Heuer TAG Heuer returns More importantly, an F1 deal will be a return to form of sorts for TAG Heuer, the biggest ...
Fratello
Another Friday, another list! This week, we look at five gentlemen’s GMT watches that stand out because of their distinguished presence. These aren’t your typical Rolex GMT-Master-influenced timepieces. No, this is a list of the more classical-looking GMTs, multi-time-zone/traveler’s watches that fly a little more under the radar. So don’t expect any colorful rotating bezels […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Gentlemen’s GMT Watches - From Grand Seiko, Parmigiani Fleurier, Lorca, And More to read the full article.
SJX Watches
The second wristwatch Francois-Paul Journe ever made and the counterpart to the similar example in the brand’s own museum, the F.P. Journe Tourbillon à Remontoir d’Egalité “15/93” was made by Mr Journe in 1993, by hand naturally. It will be offered by Phillips at its 1990s thematic sale in November (that includes the original Rolex Daytona “Rainbow”), accompanied by associated documents. One of three examples his tourbillon prototype, the watch has all of the telltale signs of a hand-made watch. It also serves as the design template that would later shape the signature F.P. Journe Tourbillon. One of the readily apparent details is the fact that the dial is actually the underside of the base plate. The actual dial, namely the guilloche register at three o’clock, is actually secured by screws on the base plate. With an estimate of over CHF2 million, the 1993 F.P. Journe tourbillon be sold at Reloaded: The Rebirth of Mechanical Watchmaking, 1980-1999 that takes place on November 8, 2024 in Geneva at the Hotel President.
Quill & Pad
Tim Mosso explores the renewed rivalry between luxury watch titans Omega and Breitling. Once an also-ran, Breitling has been rehabilitated in the marketplace and offers competitive watches in all classes. As Rolex has moved upmarket, Omega and its Speedmaster have been left in possession of the mid-market field.
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Time+Tide
The Rolex 1908 launched with much fanfare, so why has the Omega De Ville Tresor been overlooked for years?The post Have modern Omega dress watches been slept on for far too long? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
The Plan-les-Ouates district of Geneva is well-known for its concentration of watchmaking facilities, earning it the nickname “Plan-les-Watch”. But the standout structure is arguably the Vacheron Constantin (VC) manufacture, which houses both management functions and production under one roof – or more specifically, under one curving metal skin that wraps over the top of the building from east to west. The area’s other prominent residents include Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Piaget, but you can also find numerous other brands like Frederique Constant, Harry Winston, and Laurent Ferrier clustered together in what feels like a large office park. “Plan-les-Watch” is where most of the actual watchmaking in Geneva gets done, since most brands have relocated their production facilities to the suburbs over time, leaving FP Journe as the only industrial operation in the city’s historic center. And it is here that power is expressed through architecture, from the imposing black glass facade of the Rolex building to the superyacht-like decks that wrap around the Patek Philippe manufacture. The reception at the manufacture. Image – Vacheron Constantin Completed in 2005 to celebrate VC’s 250th anniversary, the Vacheron Constantin building was designed by Bernard Tschumi Architects as a single building. A second wing was then added by the same firm in 2014, increasing both production space and staff amenities. A key emphasis of the building is lighting, with expansive...
Hodinkee
From the Rolex Air-King himself to a modern icon from Breitling and the ultimate dress watch from Patek Philippe.
Fratello
Another challenge accepted, and this time, it’s a hard one. As you know, €5,000 is not the Rolex-bag-filling stash it once was. Yes, I’m old, but it wasn’t that long ago that €5K was big money. Finding the best watches under €5,000 is not easy these days. I say that reasonably subjectively, even understanding Lex’s […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €5,000 - Thor’s Picks From IWC, Christopher Ward, Oris, And More to read the full article.
SJX Watches
The world’s most important watch trade show, Watches & Wonders, has just announced the dates for next year: April 1-7, 2025. Practically all major luxury watch brands present their latest wares at Watches & Wonder (W&W;), including Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Cartier. The event also named additions to the board of the Watches and Wonders Geneva Foundation (WWGF), the governing body of the event. Chanel, Hermès and LVMH join Rolex, Richemont, Patek Philippe, and Cartier on the board, giving representation to the biggest brands or groups showing at the event. Alongside the enlarged board, the WWGF appointed Cartier chief executive Cyrille Vigneron chairman of the board, taking over from Rolex chief executive Jean-Frederic Dufour, who now becomes the organisation’s treasurer. Still a key man on the board, Jean-Frederic Dufour (second from left) Give and take The changes at WWGF reflect longstanding rivalry between the brands and groups that emerged when the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie, better known as SIHH, evolved into W&W; after the demise of Baselworld. Previously dominated by Richemont and Cartier, SIHH transformed into an event that included giants like Rolex and LVMH. LVMH long believed it deserved a seat on the board, according to a senior executive of its watch division. It is possible that the elevation of Cartier’s boss to the chairmanship is a concession for the jewellery agreeing to the enlarged board. Interestingly, the two-year term of Mr Vign...
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Fratello
The Fratello Favorites series has taken us to the €5,000 limit, and that’s a tricky place to play. This was once the land of opportunity, but it now feels like no man’s land in a search for the best watches. Rising prices mean that brands like Omega and Rolex have disappeared from the scene. That’s […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €5,000 - Mike’s Picks From Citizen, Audemars Piguet, And Tudor to read the full article.
Fratello
The Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M is perhaps Omega’s strongest contender for everyday luxury. In the realm once dominated by the Rolex OP, the Aqua Terra has become a go-to daily watch for the right reasons and can be quite the style chameleon. This time, the inspiration of Armand “Mondo” Deplantis and the Swedish national colors […] Visit Omega Introduces The Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M Inspired By Armand “Mondo” Duplantis to read the full article.
Fratello
No pre-owned shortcuts, just brand-new watches; that was my mantra when putting together my edition of The Best Watches Under €5,000. Rolex and Omega are out of reach, Tudor is on nearly every Fratello team member’s list, and the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 GMT didn’t cut it either - it might be a chronometer, […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Under €5,000 - Lex’s Picks From Grand Seiko, Frederique Constant, And Breitling to read the full article.
Monochrome
This weekend, on Saturday the 15th, we’ll be attending one of the most legendary car races of all time, the 101st edition of the 24h of Le Mans. And just like in Formula 1, watches are everywhere. While Rolex is the official timekeeper of the event, many watch brands are also sponsoring teams, such as […]
SJX Watches
For Tudor, 2024 was a year of safe bets, with the only completely new model family, the Black Bay 58 GMT, being an almost guaranteed success from the get-go. Overtly referencing sought-after vintage GMT Master models from sister brand Rolex, the BB58 GMT further solidifies Tudor’s dominant position in its category. While the big story last year was Tudor’s move out of its parents’ basement and into its own manufacture in Le Locle, this year was comparatively tame, focused on expanding the line-up of METAS-certified Black Bay models. Initial thoughts Tudor is one of the Swiss watch industry’s great success stories of the last decade. In a market in which high-end products have enjoyed the lion’s share of growth, Tudor has achieved an enviable market position by consistently improving design and quality while maintaining affordable pricing. The brand is also listening to the community, and introducing products that are likely to have built-in demand; the BB58 GMT is emblematic of this formula. Beyond its signature gilt accents and black and burgundy “Coke” bezel, the big story is of course the packaging of a true “flyer” GMT functionality in the smaller Black Bay 58 case format. The original Black Bay GMT, introduced in 2018, was beefier, at 41 mm in diameter and nearly 15 mm thick (14.6 mm to be specific). The Black Bay Pro shrunk the diameter to 39 mm, but the thickness stayed the same, resulting in a watch that felt overly thick. The New BB58 GMT address...
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Monochrome
Gerald Genta is surely mostly known for his work with Audemars Piguet (1972, Royal Oak), Patek Philippe (Nautilus, 1976) or his own bold and original creations. There is, however, much more to the man than just these two icons of the luxury sports watch category (think Universal Geneve Polerouter, Omega Constellation or Rolex King Midas). […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Among the many decisions facing a prospective watch buyer before pulling the trigger on a new timepiece, is choosing which type of strap or bracelet it should have. We covered the various types of watch straps in this article; read on for our rundown of the most popular watch bracelets, focusing on some of the influential, proprietary styles from brands like Rolex and Breitling, which have impacted numerous other brands’ designs, as well as more niche-oriented options geared to collectors and historical-minded enthusiasts. Oyster Bracelet Rolex’s iconic Oyster bracelet is the template from which many other three-link bracelet styles have been drawn. Its name comes from its association with the Oyster case, which Rolex first introduced in 1926 and for which the original version of this bracelet served as an extension. Oyster bracelets are recognizable for their wide center links bordered by thinner end-links. Rolex patented the design in 1947 and fitted one on a watch in 1948. In the early versions, the links were riveted; these were phased out in favor of a “folding” style in 1967, which eventually gave way to the modern, solid-link style in 1975. Three-link bracelets like the Oyster and its various descendants are particularly popular on sports watches and dive watches. President Bracelet The Rolex Day-Date appeared on the market in 1956 and with it came a new three-link bracelet called the President. Intended as the epitome of Rolex’s luxurious bracelet optio...
Fratello
Grab a cup of coffee, and get ready for a new Sunday Morning Showdown. For this week’s battle, we have selected two new Tudor introductions. During Watches and Wonders this year, many watch fans agreed that Tudor’s releases were more exciting than Rolex’s. So what if we put two popular Tudor watches up against each […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT Vs. Black Bay Master Chronometer In Black to read the full article.
Monochrome
There was a time when Tudor, just like mother brand Rolex, only released new models during watch fairs and only watches available in the permanent collection. These days are long gone, and Tudor has decided to fly solo, changing from the usual yearly releases to a more constant flow of novelties, now including special or […]
Time+Tide
Unique and ultra-rare was the name of the game, with F.P. Journe, Audemars Piguet, and Rolex owned by Schumacher being sold.The post Michael Schumacher’s collection exceeds $4 million at Christie’s appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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