2,678 articles · 88 videos found · page 84 of 93
Quill & Pad
Bell & Ross turns its aviation watch “DNA” toward the urban man. Chris Malburg spent a week with the BR 05 with gray dial in stainless steel and has a lot to say about this everyday city-dweller’s timepiece.
Worn & Wound
The recent history of dive watches is all about going deeper and deeper beneath the ocean’s surface. Recent releases (and major technological advancements) from Rolex and Omega underscore the continuing interest on the part of brands, collectors, and, we assume, pro divers in maximizing depth ratings, whether for practical purposes or bragging rights. The watches that come out of the research and development around extreme depth resistance have a certain appeal even if you don’t have a particular desire to even get them wet – they are technological marvels, and often compelling design objects with an offbeat aesthetic appeal. Now, Oris is getting in on the act, with a new member of the Aquis family that goes deeper than any before it, the AquisPro 4000m. The headline here is right in the name of the watch: this is an Aquis that is rated to an impressive 4,000 meters of water resistance. While not as robust as Omega’s Ultra Deep which is rated to 6,000 meters, or the truly incomprehensible Deepsea Challenge diver by Rolex that goes to 11,000 meters, this Aquis handily beats other divers in the Aquis family, which are typically rated to 300 meters. It does so with an oversized, multi piece titanium case measuring 49.5mm in diameter and a little over 23mm thick. I don’t know if there’s an obscure Swiss law that says any dive watch rated over a certain depth rating needs to have some kind of ocean themed dial design, but we get one with the AquisPro 4000m in the ...
Time+Tide
It may come as a bit of a surprise, but I often compare Rolex and Cartier due to a strong commonality. Yes, they are very different brands with very different products. But an element I believe they do share is a very key point. Watch enthusiasts often point out that Rolex practises incremental updates. The … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Cartier Santos Dumont Skeleton Micro-Rotor once again proves the brand is more than just a pretty face appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
If you're seriously into dive watches, you probably know that the Doxa SUB is one of the most important and influential members of that popular genre, but if your interest in underwater timepieces and their history is more casual, you may not be aware of Doxa's unique spot in that pantheon of pioneers that includes household names like the Rolex Submariner, Omega Seamaster, and Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. Here is a brief history of the Doxa SUB and a rundown of where the watch renowned for bringing orange dials to the watch world stands today. Bound for Glory Doxa founder Georges Ducommon, a native of the Swiss Jura town of Le Locle and one of his family’s 13 children, came to watchmaking early in life. He began an apprenticeship with an established local watchmaker in 1880, and within less than a decade had developed the skills, creativity, and resolute confidence to start his own business. He founded Doxa in 1889, naming it after a Greek word meaning “glory,” a bold harbinger of the successful future Ducommon envisioned for his brand. That success came in fairly short order, with Doxa pocket watches winning accolades at World’s Fairs in Belgium, in 1905, and in Italy, in 1906. With automobile racing becoming a popular pursuit in the early part of the 20th century, Ducommon filed a patent in 1907 for a caliber with an eight-day power reserve, which became standard equipment in the dashboard clocks of Bugatti race cars. After Georges Ducommon’s death in 1936, Do...
Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward is refreshing their C63 Sealander line this week with more than just new dial variants. Of course, we’re getting new dial variants, but the big news here for collectors and fans of the brand is the debut of a new bracelet option. Dubbed the Consort, the five-link style is reminiscent of a traditional Rolex Jubilee bracelet, but still very much its own thing, and adds a new, more elegant, dimension to Christopher Ward’s all purpose sports watch. Before we get to the bracelet, let’s start with the dial updates. There are two brand new references here, a Dragonfly Blue version of the C63 Sealander GMT, and a Mulberry Red execution of the C63 Sealander Automatic 36mm. The red dial in particular is quite striking in these Christopher Ward supplied images. This is a tough color to get right, and perhaps even tougher to pair with everyday attire, but it’s undeniably attractive nonetheless. The Dragonfly Blue tone on the GMT has an aquatic vibe not unlike other references we’ve seen from Christopher Ward recently. This one pairs particularly well with the orange tipped 24 hour hand and offers a nice base for the high contrast white, lume filled applied hour markers for easy legibility. Both new dials have sunray finishes that should allow them to come alive in the light. The Consort bracelet that’s paired to these two watches immediately makes them feel a little more formal, and a little less tool oriented. It’s a traditional five-link design, wi...
SJX Watches
Released in March at Watches & Wonders, the Black Bay GMT “Opaline” is perhaps the most notable travel watch in Tudor’s line up thanks to a silvery-white dial that may or may not have been inspired by the Rolex GMT-Master “Pan Am”. A variant of the original model in black, the Black Bay GMT with a white dial is typical Tudor – namely excellent quality and outstanding value – but it might be a subtle reference to the mythical, and sometimes controversial, GMT-Master “Pan Am”. Though there’s no official reference to the potential historical inspiration, the GMT “Opaline” is an in-joke that a historically-minded enthusiast will appreciate. Initial thoughts To the casual observer, the Black Bay GMT “Opaline” might seem like yet another iteration of Tudor’s bestselling dive watch. In fact, the GMT might seem less appealing when set against the equally recent Black Bay 54 with its properly-vintage proportions. But the GMT “Opaline” deserves a second look. The softly-grained dial with its “polar” palette is clear, clean, and well-executed, and most importantly possesses a different feel compared to the black dial of the original version, especially since black is the de facto dial colour for sports watches and very, very common. Being a dual time zone and silvery-white, the GMT “Opaline” is different despite its traditional design. That said, the GMT “Opaline” is otherwise entirely the same as the model introduced in 2018, which mea...
Time+Tide
Will Patek Philippe ever introduce a Nautilus ref. 5811/1A? Will Rolex ever debut a Submariner in RLX titanium? These are questions with uncertain answers. But one thing that is certain is #watchfam having strong opinions. Nothing gets by watch enthusiasts and, with each new release, a flurry of passionate comments on Instagram is inevitable. So, … ContinuedThe post We asked you for your controversial watch opinions – here are some standouts… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
With the recent retirements of tennis superstars Roger Federer (Rolex) and Serena Williams (Audemars Piguet), and with veterans like Rafael Nadal (Richard Mille) on the back nine of their careers, watch brands have been snapping up next-gen talent. At the start of the 2023 Wimbledon tournament, here’s a look at some of the tennis young … ContinuedThe post Holding court: Wimbledon and the next generation of tennis’ young watch ambassadors appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The deeper history of dive watches will always be murky, especially on the topic of first-time achievements when simultaneous development had countless brands competing. When it comes to trend-setting however, there are some pretty obvious titans which spread their influence. The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms and Rolex Submariner were both released in 1953, cementing a significant … ContinuedThe post How Zodiac started the funky colour trend appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
In Australia, Sky News isn’t a precise equivalent of Fox News – its daytime news coverage is comparatively balanced. But Sky is also owned by Rupert Murdoch and has undeniably become something of a hotbed of right-wing punditry. As a current-affairs channel, watches are not covered on a regular basis. Which makes it all the … ContinuedThe post Watch brands enter the culture wars appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
A GMT watch is more of a function than a style, yet I expect your mind goes straight to a red and blue ‘Pepsi’ bezel, or perhaps a red and black ‘Coke’. It’s now 10 years since Rolex first launched the 116710BLNR, so maybe the ‘Batman’ is more your style. Whichever is your favourite, a bi-color bezel is a common sight on a GMT watch. A couple of months back, Bell & Ross added another iteration to their GMT lineup. This one uses the BR 03 outline as its base, and combines it with a sharp blue and gray colorway. The blue isn’t restricted to one half of the bezel only though, which results in a vibrant looking watch. On paper, there’s a lot to like about the BR 03-93 GMT Blue, but how good is it on the wrist? With Bell & Ross’s more typical square cased watches, the dial is relatively simple. Often a black dial, large indices, bold sword hands and plenty of lume. A real utilitarian look. There are some BR 03 models which are altogether more lavish. This is one. The blue dial is bright, with a sunburst finish, and is as vibrant in real life as you’d expect. What’s especially nice to see is that although Bell & Ross’s familiar design language is present in the large numerals at the cardinal points, they are applied indices rising above the dial with superb vertical brushing on the top surfaces. The other indices are also applied, with a generous amount of lume in each. Bell & Ross have taken the familiar, and elevated it into something more elegant. Th...
Worn & Wound
Over the last few years, the popularity of vintage watches has had some ups and downs, to say the least. It was only about five or six years ago that vintage was all anyone in our community seemed to be talking about. Rare references from Rolex and Patek were setting auction records, and enthusiasts who got into the hobby before the vintage boom suddenly found themselves with collections of real and surprising value on their hands. Things have calmed down a bit recently, and while I certainly wouldn’t say vintage is over by any means, it’s become a tougher nut to crack. Consumers are, correctly, more concerned with authenticity and originality than they ever have been, which has changed the landscape considerably. Among other things, it’s opened the door for brands to get into the vintage game, making rare references from their back catalogs available to the public with the promise of proper and careful restorations, ensuring the value and history of these watches haven’t been neglected by an inexperienced watchmaker or service center. Jaeger-LeCoultre is perhaps the highest profile brand to enter this market, and they’ve just unveiled their second capsule collection in their ongoing series, The Collectibles. A pair of Memovoxes from The Collectibles collection Last week, at the Jaeger-LeCoultre boutique in Beverly Hills, collectors gathered for the big unveiling of the new eleven piece collection. Spanning periods of the brand’s history from the 1920s to the...
WatchAdvice
The Tudor Black Bay GMT was a hit when released in 2018 giving people a much more affordable alternative to it’s older and wiser cousin, the Rolex GMT BLRO, otherwise known as “The Pepsi”. And being more attainable and a great value proposition, I decided it was time to add a GMT to the collection. Why I Bought It I had never owned a GMTGreat Rolex alternativeClassic styled GMT & similar to my Black Bay The Ownership Reality Wears larger than a 41mm watch due to it’s 14mm thickness and slab sidesNo micro adjust or extendable links for on the fly adjustment Aluminium bezel insert more prone to scratches than ceramic Overall rating: 8.5 /10 Value for money: 9/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build quality: 8/10 A few months ago, Tudor released a new variant of the Tudor Black Bay GMT with a white dial, which you can read about here, but personally, I didn’t love the white dial on this watch. The black dial “Pepsi” configuration, The OG looks better in my opinion, which made me think why, and then made me think – maybe I should write about it in this next Owners Perspective article. The original and the best – Tudor Black Bay GMT Having never owned a GMT, and les face it, over 2020 and 2021, I’ve not needed one as I’ve not really gone anywhere thanks to COVID. But with the world opening up again early last year, and with a few family holidays planned combined with an itch for a new watch, I decided to take the plunge and get a Tudor Black Bay GMT. W...
Worn & Wound
For Rolex its Oystersteel, their own version of 904L. Hublot has Hublonium, arguably the best named material in the industry. I like to picture a room of C-level executives in Geneva participating in a brainstorming session to name their special blend of magnesium and aluminum. Steve throws out “Hublonium” as a joke. Two hours later, there are no better ideas, and suddenly Steve seems like a genius. Feeling empowered, he suggests putting a rhinoceros on a Big Bang. Everyone trusts him after the success of Hublonium, so why not? 2 for 2 Steve. Congratulations. I can’t wait to see what you think of next. While the mixtures and creative names vary, ultimately, it’s all metal. This metal houses movements, dials, and hands. This collection of items gets thrown on a strap or bracelet. Collectively, the whole ensemble weighs 100, maybe 150 grams. It’s a small piece of functionality wrapped in metal, and sometimes that’s ALL it is. And that’s OK. But sometimes, for some people, this 100–150-gram object becomes more than a time keeping device. Growing up in Michigan, my grandparents lived on a small in-land lake a couple hours north of us. We made the drive frequently, enjoying hours-long daytime rides on grandpa’s pontoon boat, followed by hours-long games of cards at the lake house. My grandpa always wore, and still does, a tiger’s eye ring. There isn’t a moment I remember noticing this ring for the first time. It was just always there. The silky, golden sto...
Hodinkee
A sky high take on the aviation-themed watches we love.
Time+Tide
The Frederique Constant Highlife Automatic collection has been expanded with three new light colours With their sporty versatility and summery colour schemes, they could be considered affordable alternatives for the Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 The Classics Premiere collection has also been announced in limited numbers, with traditional looks in an elegant case Often when discussing … ContinuedThe post The colourful Frederique Constant Highlife Automatic and Classics Premiere appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Owing to the likes of the Rolex Explorer and Omega Aqua Terra, robust everyday watches have become their own thing. Because what we need is a watch we can wear everyday, not necessarily one that has a unique use case and the specifications to match. Everyday watches are the most common in brand catalogues and … ContinuedThe post Second Hour’s Mandala Burst offers a fresh take on the everyday watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
After years of standing in the shadows of its big brother, the Rolex GMT-Master, Tudor steps out into the spotlight.
Time+Tide
For those who were into scuba diving in the 1960s/70s and did not care for the professional-grade dive watches from Rolex and Blancpain, skin divers offered a more wearable and equally cool horological experience. Skin divers got their name from the fact that they were meant to be worn directly on the skin and not … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Marin Instruments create a skin diver for the 21st century appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
After covering the notable in the upcoming auction of an impressive single-owner collection, we now turn to the highlights in Christie’s main sale, Important Watches. Made up of 159 lots, the sale encompasses a remarkable line-up of Patek Philippe timepieces, from the quirky and historically important, like the brand’s smallest-known repeater, to the contemporary and magnificent Sky Moon Tourbillon ref. 5002R featuring a special-order black dial. Important Watches (lots 2201-2360) begins at 1:00 pm on May 26 – the catalogue is available here. But the most significant watch in the sale is undoubtedly the ref. 2523 world time with a cloisonné dial depicting the North American continent, one of three known to exist. Given its importance and value, the ref. 2523 will be sold as the sole lot in a dedicated auction. The ref. 2523 will be sold at 7:00 pm on May 28 – more can be found here. The ref. 2523 with a cloisonné dial Lot 2306: Patek Philippe Pocket Watch with the Smallest Known Repeater Compact yet exceptional, this Patek Philippe pocket watch dates to 1888 and is just 24.5 mm in diameter. According to Christie’s, this pocket watch is smallest known minute repeater ever made by Patek Philippe. It was most likely commissioned by a Spanish or Latin American customer, as indicated by the margins on the movement in Spanish. This pocket watch has a white enamel dial with Roman numerals in black for the hours and oversized minute numerals in gilt print. Several hai...
SJX Watches
Having concluded its Geneva sales that included an F.P. Journe thematic auction, Christie’s will soon open its spring sale season in Hong Kong. The auctioneer’s watch offerings include an impressive line-up of watches assembled over two decades by an Asian collector. Christened The Ultimate Collection, the selection is composed of 107 timepieces – almost all modern – ranging from Rolex to F.P. Journe. Although the watches are diverse, the collector’s keen eye can be discerned. The catalogue includes classic must-haves like various examples of the Rolex Daytona and GMT-Master II, but also rare and special watches from F.P. Journe as well as possibly-unique Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts. We round up nine notable picks from the sale, including the headline lots from F.P. Journe – a Chronomètre à Résonance “RTA” with a mother-of-pearl dial and the Tourbillon Souverain Coeur de Rubis. The “Coeur de Rubis” dial Other highlights including a Patek Philippe Dome Clock that was originally owned by Jean-Claude Biver of Hublot and Blancpain fame, along with uncommon variants of the landmark Lange 1, including the Lange 1A and ref. 101.027X. The Ultimate Collection takes place on May 26 at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre (HKCEC) – the catalogue is available here. Lot 2537 – F.P. Journe Centigraphe Souverain Anniversaire “Hong Kong” In 2016, F.P. Journe marked the 10th anniversary of its first ever boutique (which was in Tokyo) with the ...
Hodinkee
Life beyond Patek and Rolex, selling dials in front of the Mandarin, and limited-edition cocktails.
Time+Tide
As soon as Tudor was founded as an affordable offshoot of Rolex, their cult popularity began. Even so, I don’t think many people could have predicted just how far things would come. The introduction of the Black Bay series in 2012 really accelerated Tudor’s journey out from Rolex’s shadow, and the last handful of years … ContinuedThe post Five alternatives to the Tudor Black Bay 54, since you already can’t get one appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
This handsome diver can compete with the heavy hitters from Tudor, Omega and even Rolex.
Hodinkee
Originally meant for the sky, this everyday pilot watch is just at home on land (and even sea, sorta).
Time+Tide
The history of timekeeping dates back to whenever the first creature wondered where the sun was in the sky, and the earliest evidence for calendars comes from Babylon and Egypt 5,000 years ago. In all that time, there haven’t been any horological events that are mentioned with as much dread as the Quartz Crisis. After … ContinuedThe post The Quartz Crisis wasn’t solely to blame for the industry downfall, real trouble was brewing for years appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Modern mechanical chronograph movements have mostly been conceived according to two standardised recipes. One is the vertical clutch approach exemplified by the the sporty, performance oriented cal. 4131 inside the Rolex Daytona, while the other is the classical, lateral coupling architecture used by the celebrated L951.1 in the Lange Datograph. Sticking with a successful architecture is no bad thing, after all, chronographs are complicated enough in their basic form. However, there are some chronographs that stand out for being truly original, like the F.P. Journe Centigraphe and its cal. 1506. Constructed like no other chronograph on the market, the Centigraphe seeks to measure times with a resolution of 1/100th of a second with a unique movement that is modern in its approach yet subtly references the work of John Harrison. In many ways it encapsulates the philosophy of François-Paul Journe, which prizes original, creative watchmaking that pays tribute to historical greats. The cal. 1506 Despite its achievements, the Centigraphe is overshadowed by the brand’s signature watches, namely the Resonance and Tourbillon Souverain, and remains one of of F.P. Journe’s less-known offerings. Paradoxically, the Centigraphe should be more recognised than most other F.P. Journe watches because has a tangible link to the world of celebrity with its Formula 1 provenance, having been conceived at the suggestion of Jean Todt, the former boss of Ferrari’s Formula 1 team. Although...
Worn & Wound
When you enter Palexpo, the enormous convention center that is home to Watches & Wonders, you have an immediate decision to make: right or left? A glance to the left and you see the Tudor, Rolex, and Patek Philippe booths. These brands, in a lot of ways, anchor the entire show, and dominate much of the conversation for the duration of the fair. If you look to your right, you’ll be greeted by something entirely different. This year, it was a giant Ingenieur, spread across the top of the IWC booth at the end of the hall, and it was hard not to get the message that this watch, and this watch alone, was the brand’s sole focus for Watches & Wonders this year. Building your Watches & Wonders presence around a single watch was a trend that came into sharp focus at this year’s event. The IWC booth at Watches & Wonders, viewed from the opposite end of the hall. Whether brands took a literal one watch approach (like Ulysee Nardin, who only showed the new Freak ONE this year) or put the lion’s share of their backing behind one release but dropped a few additional under the radar pieces (like IWC), it’s a strategy that makes for a stark contrast with what feels like a more traditional practice of overwhelming everyone in the meeting with tray, after tray, after tray of new watches to try on, photograph, write about, and otherwise consider. The single watch strategy communicates a sense of confidence, that a brand has hit on something so good that they don’t need to muddy...
Hodinkee
From Rolex to Richard Mille, some of the best watches of past Masters champions.
SJX Watches
Because it was the world’s biggest watch brands showing off their latest products at Watches & Wonders (W&W;), surprises seemed unlikely. Yet there were a few surprises at the fair, with several coming from the most conservative brand of all, Rolex, which debuted the now infamous “Bubbles” and “Puzzle”. But the unexpected aside, the fair also saw a number of well-executed new models that were just right, most notably from Cartier, which stuck to what it does well. The Tank Normale in yellow gold with a matching bracelet Surprises A surprise launch, but certainly not unexpected as a highlight, is the Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Display Travel Time ref. 5224R. Although it appears to be a typical Calatrava at a distance, the ref. 5224R is elegantly different. For one, it is surprisingly large for a Calatrava at 42 mm but typically thin at under 9 mm. The ref. 5224R More unusual is the 24-hour display that is a convenient and smart method of showing two time zones without the need for a day and night indicator. But as is often the case with Patek Philippe, the novelty of the watch was not invented. Its key features, namely the time display and case size, are rooted in history – the watch is modelled on the oversized Chronometro Gondolo pocket watches of the early 20th century. But at over US$57,000, the ref. 5224R is unusually expensive for a two-time zone watch, though that is explained in part by the high-end movement inside that’s shared with the top-of-t...
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