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The Longitude Problem

The 200-year navigation crisis solved by John Harrison\'s H4 marine chronometer (1759); the lineage to modern COSC and Master Chronometer.

The New Bremoir South Beach, and the Influence of Art Deco Design Worn & Wound
Cartier Tank Oct 8, 2025

The New Bremoir South Beach, and the Influence of Art Deco Design

Virtually every watch enthusiast is familiar with Art Deco, even if they don’t know it. Art Deco, short for Arts décoratifs, first appeared in Paris in the 1910s and spread across the globe over the following two decades. You may not be familiar with Art Deco’s principles - bold geometric forms and streamlined, mechanical aesthetics, among them - but you are almost assuredly familiar with some of its most famous designs, like the Cartier Tank and JLC Reverso. Worn & Wound contributor and Art Deco enthusiast Christoph McNeill considers Art Deco “the pinnacle of design,” and says he loves the beauty of the Machine Age design movement’s expression of curves and lines, obsession with mechanical aesthetics, and “streamline” nature. Wristwatches, which became popular about the same time Art Deco came onto the scene, was a natural medium for Art Deco design. “Because they’re little, tiny machines, right? said McNeill. “It sort of went hand-in-hand.” Vintage Art Deco watches from Christoph’s personal collection So, what does Art Deco design look like in watches?  “It means clean lines, very specific fonts,” said watch collector and seller extraordinaire Eric Wind. “I think of a lot of rectangles, squares, things like that. Less round, unless it’s round within a rectangle. A lot of black on silver. I think of that kind of high shine chrome when I think about Deco as well. More silver than gold.” Wind cites “a lot of Pateks from the 20s and ...

Xu Beihong Immortalised in Enamel on Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Reverso SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre s Reverso One Oct 8, 2025

Xu Beihong Immortalised in Enamel on Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Reverso

One of the most famous Chinese artists of the modern era, Xu Beihong is best known for his ink paintings of horses and birds, which are amongst the most valuable examples of 20th century Chinese art. Three of those equine works have been reproduced in miniature enamel on the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel “Xu Beihong”. Presented in the classic Grande Taille case size, this limited edition trio continues Jaeger-LeCoultre’s longstanding tradition of transforming the case back of the Reverso into a blank canvas for art. Past works that have been miniaturised for the Reverso include Claude Monet’s Venice paintings and Shahnameh, an epic poem of ancient Persia. Initial thoughts Like other miniature enamelled Reversos, the Xu Beihong trio is impressive. The original artworks are already beautiful, and they have been reproduced in exceptionally fine detail. Even if you don’t like the works, the enamelling is clearly top quality. But like the other recent enamel Reversos, the Xu Beihong trio is expensive in comparative terms. The retail price for similar watches was almost half today’s level six years ago. This is not unique to JLC of course. But JLC doesn’t have the cachet, after a few slow years, for such strong pricing, unlike say, Patek Philippe or a hot indie brand. That’s not entirely fair since they are beautiful watches with finely executed miniature enamelling, but it is the state of affairs. Two Horses Horse running and standing Notably, this is ...

Hands-On: The New Oris × Cervo Volante Big Crown Pointer Date With An Indian Summer Dial Fratello
Oris × Cervo Volante Big Oct 8, 2025

Hands-On: The New Oris × Cervo Volante Big Crown Pointer Date With An Indian Summer Dial

Fall is hitting us hard here in the Netherlands this week. Temperatures are dropping, and so are the leaves. But autumn doesn’t have to be a season defined by rain and storms. In Canada, especially, the period from September to November can be quite enjoyable, with the sun hitting the multicolored leaves on the country’s […] Visit Hands-On: The New Oris × Cervo Volante Big Crown Pointer Date With An Indian Summer Dial to read the full article.

Video: Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty - A Fresh Take On A 1970s Icon Fratello
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty – Oct 7, 2025

Video: Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty - A Fresh Take On A 1970s Icon

Let’s start with the name - Laureato. It’s Italian, which we happen to like here at Fratello. Roughly translated, it means “crowned for success” or “crowned with laurels,” a reward once given to winners of sports competitions and, later, to students and artists. In Italy, laurea is also the equivalent of a master’s university degree. […] Visit Video: Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty – A Fresh Take On A 1970s Icon to read the full article.

SJX Podcast: Quest of Time SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin just unveiled Oct 1, 2025

SJX Podcast: Quest of Time

On episode 11 of the SJX Podcast, SJX and Brandon Moore discuss the monumental La Quête Du Temps astronomical clock that Vacheron Constantin just unveiled in Paris alongside the companion Quest of Time wristwatch. We also tackle Tudor’s first moon phase complication and what it means for the brand’s collection of dress watches. SJX also shares his views on the news that Rolex chief executive Jean-Frédéric Dufour will be giving the keynote at Dubai Watch Week, a move that’s largely unprecedented for the industry’s most impenetrable brand. We also chat about the other big news in the world of watch fairs, Audemars Piguet’s return to Watches & Wonders in 2026. Last but not least, we discuss what Girard-Perregaux’s new movement platform might reveal about the future of the brand. Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and Youtube.  

First Look - The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Calendar now with Handsome Grained Sector Dial Monochrome
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Calendar now Sep 29, 2025

First Look - The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Calendar now with Handsome Grained Sector Dial

Launched in 1992, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Master Control collection is inspired by the brand’s classic round timepieces of the 1950s, focusing on technical rigour, certification (JLC’s in-house “1000 Hours” Control), and stylistic restraint. The Master Control Calendar was part of the refreshed collection in 2020, equipped with a triple calendar and moon phases inspired by movements developed […]

Elka Launches New Watches in a Vintage Inspired 36mm Case Size Worn & Wound
Sep 26, 2025

Elka Launches New Watches in a Vintage Inspired 36mm Case Size

Labeling a watch as “vintage-inspired” can open it up to extra scrutiny. How historically accurate are the vintage features? How well-executed is the styling? And mostly importantly, does it make enough practical sense to release today? With their re-launch in 2022, Swiss brand Elka Watch Co. released the original Série 1 line, and the X- and D-Series lead the charge as historically-inspired sport and dress-style watches. Now, in 2025, Elka is bringing back the D series, and introducing a field watch variant, the N Series, in a smaller 36mm size, further upping their vintage styling accuracy.  The new 36 N and D references first and foremost share the titular 36mm case diameter, 10.50mm thickness, and 41.10mm lug-to-lug measurements. Keeping both references ticking is a La Joux Perret G101 automatic movement with a 68-hour power reserve, promising modern functionality under the vintage dress, and both feature a screw-down exhibition case back to showcase that movement and provide 50 meters of water resistance. A scratch-resistant box-type sapphire crystal, coated with anti-reflective treatment, tops off the similarities between the two models. The N Series bursts into the lineup as Elka’s first field watch, and the beige, black, and yellow styling matches that application. Two models are available for the 36 N line: a beige dial model with black numerals and indexes and yellow-orange details; and a black dial version with yellow numerals and hands and white indexes...

David Candaux Thinks Differentially with the DC12 MaveriK SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Hybris Mechanica à Grande Sep 25, 2025

David Candaux Thinks Differentially with the DC12 MaveriK

After a few quiet years, David Candaux has introduced the DC12 MaveriK – the brand’s fourth model and its first without a tourbillon. A deceptively complicated time-only watch, the DC12 features twin escapements linked by a differential, a mechanism deeply rooted in the twentieth century history of the Vallée de Joux. Housed in an organic 39.5 mm titanium case, the DC12 is the most affordable watch yet from the Le Solliat-based watchmaker, but retains the brand’s signature push-button crown below the dial. Initial thoughts An experienced constructor who can count the MB&F; HM6 and Jaeger-LeCoultre Hybris Mechanica à Grande Sonnerie among his credits, David Candaux launched his eponymous brand in 2017. But he would be the first to tell you it was not an easy start, managing to sell just 14 watches during his first four years in business. This is not uncommon in the world of independent watchmaking; look around at some of the most popular independent brands today and you’ll hear a similar story about their early days. Mr Candaux’s business subsequently picked up some momentum, and in the past four years the brand claims to have made an additional 42 pieces. If true, it’s an encouraging sign for a watchmaker with something of a chequered past as an independent constructor, who is said to have had difficulty meeting obligations to client brands. In some ways, the DC12 is the embodiment of this journey, being simpler and cheaper than Mr Candaux’s previous models....

IWC is Timekeeper for First Commercial Space Station SJX Watches
IWC Sep 25, 2025

IWC is Timekeeper for First Commercial Space Station

Founded by a crypto billionaire, Vast is developing the first-ever commercial space station, and IWC is now its official timekeeper. The IWC-Vast partnership continues the watchmaker’s recent involvement with commercial and civilian space travel, which included a series of special watches for the first all-civilian space flight in 2021. The Vast control centre Vast was founded in 2021 by Jed McCaleb, an entrepreneur who set up the now defunct crypto exchange Mt. Gox and later helped develop Ripple, a crypto platform. With a ten-figure fortune from his crypto ventures, Mr McCaleb has funded Vast and its ambition of creating artificial gravity space stations. Inside Haven-1 Sometime in 2026, Vast is planning to launch Haven-1, a small space station in low Earth orbit. Over the next two decades, Vast aims to build larger stations and eventually a fleet of them. Haven-1 under construction What can we expect from IWC partnership? According to IWC, the tie-up will “enable IWC to… develop spaceflight-ready watches. At Vast headquarters, Vast engineers will test prototypes… in a similar way to some of the hardware that will fly on Haven Demo and Haven-1 – a testament to the authenticity of IWC’s aerospace lineage.”  

New Watches in the shop from Nivada Grenchen, Tissot, Casio, and Robot Watches Worn & Wound
Nivada Grenchen Tissot Casio Sep 24, 2025

New Watches in the shop from Nivada Grenchen, Tissot, Casio, and Robot Watches

In this video, shop manager Ricardo sits down with Devin to discuss some of the latest watches to make their way into the Windup Watch Shop. We have four watches on the table from some of our enthusiast favorite brands to go through, and the guys have a little bit of fun breaking each one down. Which one was your favorite? In this video, shop manager Ricardo sits down with Devin to discuss some of the latest watches to make their way into the Windup Watch Shop. We have four watches on the table from some of our enthusiast favorite brands to go through, and the guys have a little bit of fun breaking each one down. Which one was your favorite? The post New Watches in the shop from Nivada Grenchen, Tissot, Casio, and Robot Watches appeared first on Worn & Wound.

The Rock Watch is Back, and We Smell What Tissot is Cooking Worn & Wound
Tissot Sep 17, 2025

The Rock Watch is Back, and We Smell What Tissot is Cooking

Stone dials, as we’re all aware, have been having a moment over these last couple of years. Time, I suppose, will tell if the prevalence of stone dials across more affordable price ranges is a trend, or just a new part of the watch landscape that we’ll all just accept and live with, like green dials, or carbon cases. With the renewed popularity of this inherently 1970s/80s inspired design cue, it was really only a matter of time before we saw the return of a watch that takes the use of stone to a different level entirely. The Tissot Rock Watch, an artifact of the 1980s if ever there was one, is back, albeit in a limited edition that might be tough to acquire depending on your geography (more on that in a bit).  First, a little background on the Rock Watch. Launched in 1985, Tissot claims that the Rock Watch was the first ever watch with a case and dial made entirely from granite procured from the Swiss Alps. I’ll admit here that I haven’t done a ton of scholarly research on the topic, but I’m willing to take Tissot at face value here simply because granite is a particularly difficult material to work with, requiring highly specific machines and tooling. It’s a watch that doesn’t make a ton of practical sense from a production standpoint, but naturally was quite popular in the mid 80s and eventually spawned an entire collection for Tissot that featured a huge variety of exotic stones. Original Rock Watches from the 1980s The new version of the Rock Watch rema...

Introducing - Hamilton Expands the Khaki Aviation X-Wind Collection with Fresh Colours Monochrome
Hamilton Expands Sep 16, 2025

Introducing - Hamilton Expands the Khaki Aviation X-Wind Collection with Fresh Colours

Hamilton has always had deep ties to aviation. From synchronising the first U.S. airmail flights in the 1910s to timing pilots through WWI and WWII, and the jet age, the brand’s Khaki Aviation collection continues this legacy with watches designed for professionals and enthusiasts. The Khaki Aviation X-Wind was developed in 2005 with aerobatic champion […]

SJX Podcast: Best of Geneva Watch Days SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Sep 16, 2025

SJX Podcast: Best of Geneva Watch Days

On episode 10 of the SJX Podcast, SJX and Brandon Moore discuss the highlights and hands-on impressions from Geneva Watch Days, including the Greubel Forsey QP Balancier, Lange 1815 Tourbillon Black Enamel, Gérald Genta’s new Minute Repeater, and the latest perpetual calendars from Audemars Piguet. We also discuss the significance of Tag Heuer’s carbon hairsprings; after a short-lived launch in 2019, the brand has taken a mulligan and relaunched this technology with a key difference that might make carbon hairsprings a real alternative to silicon. Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and Youtube.  

Looking Back on a Decade of Windup Watch Fair Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Sep 15, 2025

Looking Back on a Decade of Windup Watch Fair

Ten years ago, in a cab stuck in traffic somewhere in Manhattan, the decision was made to put together a watch fair for like-minded brands and watch collectors. Not a stuffy event, but rather one where all are welcome. An event where small, young brands can be in the same room as long-established brands on an equal footing. An event that is free and open to the public. An event called Windup Watch Fair. The first Windup Watch Fair   Windup is for the children   Windup OGs – Christopher Ward and Oris   It was a weekend to remember   With the confidence that only comes from not knowing precisely what you are getting yourself into, we moved ahead with renting a space, rallying brands, hiring production vendors, and more. On October 23rd, 2015, we opened the doors to a pleasant surprise: there was a line down the block. In the years since, we’ve expanded and refined the Windup Watch Fair many times over. First, we added San Francisco, then Chicago, and most recently, Dallas. Each show grew a little in size, but also in stature. Windup went from a simple fair to a cultural rallying point for watch enthusiasts. It became a format that has been replicated around the world. In 2024, we expanded Windup Watch Fair NYC to an international scale, attracting over 150 brands and seeing over 10,000 attendees. And now, we’re excited to host Windup NYC once again, honoring 10 years of hard work, enthusiasm, and great watches. But, more importantly, it marks 10 years of bringing e...

Introducing - British Indie Brand Farer is Back with the Three Hand Series III Monochrome
Farer Sep 15, 2025

Introducing - British Indie Brand Farer is Back with the Three Hand Series III

Farer, a British indie brand, debuted in 2015 with watches designed in London and produced in Switzerland. With an extensive portfolio ranging from characterful three-handers to GMTs, as well as chronographs, integrated sports watches, and compressor-style dive watches, the brand’s keen eye for design is paying off. Coupled with its direct-to-consumer business model, which eliminates intermediaries, prices […]

First Look - The Sporty-Chic Hermès H08 Returns in Titanium with Signature Hermès Colours Monochrome
Hermes Sep 12, 2025

First Look - The Sporty-Chic Hermès H08 Returns in Titanium with Signature Hermès Colours

When Hermès launched its sporty cushion-shaped H08 men’s watch four years ago, it was welcomed with open arms – and not just among Hermès devotees. Characteristic of the brand’s flair for enigmatic shapes, the H08 is a playful juxtaposition of shapes highlighted with different finishes and textures. Continuing the success story, the H08 collection expands […]

Experiencing The Ultra-Limited And Complicated Montblanc 1858 Cylindrical Tourbillon Geosphere Around The World In 80 Days Limited Edition - Chapter Three In Villeret Fratello
Montblanc 1858 Cylindrical Tourbillon Geosphere Sep 12, 2025

Experiencing The Ultra-Limited And Complicated Montblanc 1858 Cylindrical Tourbillon Geosphere Around The World In 80 Days Limited Edition - Chapter Three In Villeret

You could qualify a town with just 929 inhabitants as sleepy. Villeret, in the Swiss canton of Bern, is indeed quiet. It’s stuck between two mountain ridges in the Jura, and apart from a pizzeria that serves Dutch beer instead of Swiss for some reason, the isolated place looks pretty much timeless. Still, time plays […] Visit Experiencing The Ultra-Limited And Complicated Montblanc 1858 Cylindrical Tourbillon Geosphere Around The World In 80 Days Limited Edition – Chapter Three In Villeret to read the full article.

Introducing - Vibrant Stone Dials for the 38mm Audemars Piguet Code 11:59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Monochrome
Audemars Piguet Code 11:59 Selfwinding Flying Sep 12, 2025

Introducing - Vibrant Stone Dials for the 38mm Audemars Piguet Code 11:59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon

If there were a concise guide to the latest trends in watchmaking, it would likely feature compact unisex case sizes, vibrant colours and stone dials. Bang on trend, Audemars Piguet’s latest trilogy of compact 38mm Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon models flaunts vibrant-coloured stone dials sourced from around the world. As part of the brand’s […]

Portrait - Defying Gravity… A Conversation with Philippe Delhotal, Creative Director at Hermès Horloger Monochrome
Hermes Sep 11, 2025

Portrait - Defying Gravity… A Conversation with Philippe Delhotal, Creative Director at Hermès Horloger

If there’s one brand – or rather, one house – that defies the laws of gravity, it’s Hermès. Just uttering the name evokes a reaction: it’s the embodiment of absolute luxury. Elegance, lightness, and discretion might be its keys, as Hermès stands as a unique case in a sector currently facing turbulence. No matter: the […]