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Results for ETA 2892-A2

3,876 articles · 160 videos found · page 85 of 135

Happenings at the Geneva Auction Season Fall 2023 SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Nov 7, 2023

Happenings at the Geneva Auction Season Fall 2023

Regarded as a bellwether of the market, the Geneva auction season just concluded with the main players – Phillips, Christie’s, Sotheby’s, and Antiquorum – having staged their sales over four days. Several records were set over the season, including CHF2.1 million for an immaculate Rolex ref. 6062 triple calendar in steel at Phillips, and CHF2.2 million for the George Daniels Millennium also signed by Roger W. Smith, both including fees. Trending one way Despite the record holders, the tone of the season was set by moderating or even weak prices. This was already evident with the most faddish of the “hype” watches last season six months ago. The May auctions saw prices for such watches gap down substantially, reflecting a new reality. Now the same appears to be happening for independent watchmaking – a good thing in my view as it will hopefully shake out the opportunists and no-hopers. The Roger W. Smith Series 2 hammered for CHF400,000 at Phillips (or CHF508,000 with fees), which is below the current retail price for the model and a third below the price of the lower-priced Series 1 that sold in the same venue in May 2023. The Phillips saleroom at La Reserve. Image – Phillips This phenomenon was not unique to Roger W. Smith, with prices gapping down for significant independents like F.P. Journe and Voutilainen. However, these brands remain buoyed by their relative reasonable retail prices, which still remain below recent auction valuations. Even if some exa...

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Hands-On With the Oris x Collective Horology C.04 Divers Seventy-Five Worn & Wound
Oris x Collective Horology C.04 Nov 7, 2023

Hands-On With the Oris x Collective Horology C.04 Divers Seventy-Five

We love a good riff on an existing concept around here, and there’s one candidate in particular that’s ripe for experimentation. The Oris Divers 65 (of Divers Sixty-Five if you’re not into the whole brevity thing) has proven rather malleable in recent years, hosting a variety of colorways, material combinations, dial designs, and even movements. And to its credit, all of them seem to work pretty well. Enter Collective Horology, who are using this watch as a base to their latest collaboration, the C.04, in a shaggy ‘70s inspired take on the watch dubbed, naturally, the Divers Seventy-Five.  The Divers Seventy-Five brings back the dateless dial with the retro Arabic numerals marking the cardinal hours. The design feels right at home in the new color scheme, which consists of brown and orange tones throughout the steel case and bracelet. The result is a look that certainly won’t be for everyone, but offers one of the more inventive takes on the watch we’ve seen yet. The color scheme at work here takes inspiration from ‘70s California design according to Asher Rapkin and Gabe Reilly of the Collective, and when set into that context, takes on a slightly different character than your typical brown dial or two-tone watch. The Divers Seventy-Five is built into a 40mm steel case that’s accented by Oris’ bronze bezel and affixed to their bi-metal steel and bronze bracelet, leaning fully into the funky vibes that start at the dial. This is a case we’re fond of ar...

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On the Wrist with Parmigiani Fleurier X Revolution Tonda PF Micro-Rotor “Purple Reign” Revolution
Parmigiani Fleurier X Revolution Tonda PF Nov 5, 2023

On the Wrist with Parmigiani Fleurier X Revolution Tonda PF Micro-Rotor “Purple Reign”

Our latest limited edition, the Parmigiani Fleurier X Revolution Tonda PF Micro-Rotor “Purple Reign,” graces the wrist. When bathed in sunlight, the signature Grain d’orge guilloché dial sparkles with intricate details, highlighting the exquisite Tyrian purple hue. It’s a true embodiment of elegance and subtlety at its finest. Complementing this timepiece is one of the most exquisitely […]

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Behind The Lens: The Ultra-Rare Patek Philippe Chronograph Reference 5070J-013 – Reprise Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe Chronograph Reference 5070J-013 – Nov 4, 2023

Behind The Lens: The Ultra-Rare Patek Philippe Chronograph Reference 5070J-013 – Reprise

It was not until 2015 that Patek Philippe publicly issued a number of small editions of previously discontinued references, each in previously unmade metal/dial combinations. This Patek Philippe Reference 5070J-013 is one of those ultra-rare birds. And GaryG wonders if it might bring yellow gold back into fashion single-handedly, as for him the combination of the yellow gold case and sunburst-brushed brown dial is as gorgeous as it is unexpected.

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Hands On: An Impressively Preserved Rolex Ref. 6062 SJX Watches
Rolex Ref 6062 Arguably Nov 1, 2023

Hands On: An Impressively Preserved Rolex Ref. 6062

Arguably the most storied Rolex model in history, more so than the “Paul Newman” Daytona, the ref. 6062 triple calendar is beautiful, and unusually for Rolex, complicated. At the same time, the ref. 6062 boasts the trademark water-resistant Oyster case, something that its closest cousin, the ref. 8171 “Padellone” triple calendar, lacks. Soon to go under the hammer at Phillips in Geneva is a particularly impressive example of the ref. 6062. While there have been more storied examples of the ref. 6062 sold in recent years – including the “Bao Dai” owned by the last emperor of Vietnam – the upcoming ref. 6062 is possibly the best preserved. It is a steel example, and while a steel ref. 6062 is rare, the condition of this watch truly sets it apart. The case appears original in shape and detail, though it shows wear; modest wear considering the seven decades since the watch was made. Phillips describes the case as “unpolished” and while that cannot be ascertained with absolutely certainty, the claim is certainly a credible one. The Oyster case has its full shape, defined edges, and even the tiny step at the very top of the bezel where it meets the crystal. More so than any of the other external components, the case back of this model typically shows the most obvious wear as the engravings are shallow. But here the original engravings look almost like they did fresh out of the factory, right down to the rectangular blocks separating the two lines of text. Int...

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Aventurine Complications by Bucherer and H. Moser & Cie. SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Oct 30, 2023

Aventurine Complications by Bucherer and H. Moser & Cie.

The collaboration between Bucherer and H. Moser & Cie. has given birth to a trio of timepieces: the Pioneer Tourbillon Concept Aventurine and two different takes on the Endeavour Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon Aventurine. Bucherer, a renowned Swiss retailer with a global presence that was recently acquired by Rolex, has made blue dials a signature feature of its collaborations. While most Bucherer exclusives sport blue-finish metal dials, this trio have dials of aventurine glass, otherwise known as goldstone. It’s essentially glass with metallic inclusions that give it a speckled, sparkly appearance that evokes the night sky. Initial thoughts The combination of red gold and deep blue dials neatly aligns with both Bucherer’s and Moser’s respective aesthetics. This collaboration continues the retailer’s tradition of unique, blue-themed exclusives that are a variants of familiar models.  It is worth noting the three timepieces are derived from models in Moser’s existing product range, including the aventurine dials. Furthermore, the movements, namely the HMC 904 with repeater and the HMC 804 tourbillon, remain unchanged. While this reflects the collaborative effort between Bucherer and Moser, it raises the question of whether even greater imaginative potential could have been explored by both entities.  That said, the aventurine dials are appealing, though they come at a price. For instance, the Pioneer Tourbillon Concept Aventurine costs US$71,500, compared t...

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Panerai Leans Traditional with the Radiomir Officine PAM01385 SJX Watches
Panerai Leans Traditional Oct 27, 2023

Panerai Leans Traditional with the Radiomir Officine PAM01385

Pared back in style, this vintage-inspired limited edition from Panerai takes a simple approach in revisiting a historical design. With a faux-aged dial colour and conical crown, the Radiomir Officine PAM01385 celebrates the anniversary of the original Radiomir prototype of 1935. Priced well at just over US$5,000, it’s a limited edition with just 300 examples being made.  Initial thoughts  The execution of this is clean and will please those who appreciate historical Panerai design. There is nothing added on that doesn’t need to be there, and there are small details which play to those who know their Panerai history. It’s not an exact remake of a vintage model, but has a functional aesthetic that sticks to the spirit of the originals. As an aside, while I’ve never been a fan of mock ageing, the “tropical” dial is an even colour that doesn’t have a fake gradient to it, and so it can arguably be seen as a simple colour choice, rather than recreating faded pigment.  Another notable detail is the 45 mm case. Oversized by most standards, it’s actually more compact than the average historical Radiomir as well as modern-day remakes, which were usually 47 mm. This makes it more wearable, while still looking big enough to retain the Panerai feel. Given the historical background of this design, and the appealing, no-frills design, the price of US$5,400 is good value, particularly when compared against Panerai models like the Radiomir California. With just 300 piec...

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TAG Heuer Continues the Carrera’s 60th Anniversary Celebration with Gold Version Inspired by Vintage References Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Continues Oct 26, 2023

TAG Heuer Continues the Carrera’s 60th Anniversary Celebration with Gold Version Inspired by Vintage References

It’s no stretch of the imagination to think that there is a large crossover between motorsports and horology. In fact, some of the most well-known drivers have become synonymous with the brands they rep both on their wrists and plastered across their car. It makes sense, then, that TAG Heuer would look back to their motoring history to help celebrate the 60th anniversary of the Carrera collection. Going back a few decades, we can in part acknowledge Jack Heuer as one of the reasons watches and cars have become paired in our collective minds. During the Golden Age of motoracing, Heuer introduced the concept of gifting gold watches to racing stars. It was here that solidified TAG Heuer as a brand that wasn’t just respectable – but covetable. It’s this bit of Heuer history which has become the inspiration behind this new TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph. Coming in at 39mm in an 18-karat gold case, the watch itself is a timeless piece of art which sits somewhere between its sporty heritage and its luxury namesake. The small details of this watch show the thoughtful design to really honor the heritage of this collection: from the integrated chronograph pushers to the black subdials at 3 and 9 o’clock which are a nod to past expressions of the iconic reverse panda configuration. Most intriguing of all is the Glassbox design of the case itself, a flourish brought to the collection this year to celebrate the Carrera’s 60th anniversary. With an ultra-ergonomic design, the ...

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Oak & Oscar Debuts their new Humboldt GMT in Titanium Worn & Wound
Oak & Oscar Oct 24, 2023

Oak & Oscar Debuts their new Humboldt GMT in Titanium

Windup NYC is a wrap, and the festivities saw the debut of many new watches from a huge variety of brands. Oak & Oscar is a Windup mainstay and a core part of the microbrand space (a term which admittedly seems less and less adequate as the years go by and these shows get bigger and bigger, but that’s a topic for another day), and they took the opportunity to debut a new flavor of an old favorite over the weekend, the Humboldt GMT in titanium. It’s immediately recognizable as an Oak & Oscar and will slot nicely into their existing catalog, but offers a handful of new details and innovations that show the Chicago based brand is still interested in moving forward and expanding the idea of what an Oak & Oscar watch should be.  The big news here is the titanium case. The Humboldt GMT in titanium is made from the grade 5 variety, and comes in at a weight of just 74 grams when mounted on a leather strap. It comes in at 39.5mm (with a bezel overhang of 0.5mm) and is 46.8mm from lug to lug. According to the brand, it’s 20% lighter than the original Humboldt GMT in stainless steel, which equates to a difference you’ll really notice on the wrist. It immediately makes the watch sportier based on ease of wear alone.  For the dial, we get a dark green shade, which is the same tone used on the green Olmsted. Like many other Oak & Oscar watches, this one has a sandwich dial construction, which allows for tons of contrast via lume that is present under the main dial layer. There...

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TAG Heuer Brings Vintage Charm with the Carrera “Glassbox” in Yellow Gold SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Brings Vintage Charm Oct 24, 2023

TAG Heuer Brings Vintage Charm with the Carrera “Glassbox” in Yellow Gold

The Carrera line takes a luxurious turn with a new chronograph sporting a yellow gold case and matching yellow gold-plated dial, complemented by contrasting matte black sub-dials. The Carrera Chronograph “Glassbox” pays homage to a similar creation from the 1960s, the Carrera ref. 1158 CHN, which is known among collectors for its bold, all-gold design. Initial thoughts A precious metal sports watch often sparks debate about the relevance of the case material, particularly for brands not typically associated with pure luxury. However, TAG Heuer’s decision to execute its new Glassbox in the memorable “John Player Special” colour scheme of gold and black inspired by the ref. 1158 CHN is commendable. Moreover, it is a logical next step for TAG Heuer following the recent unveiling of the Carrera Chronosprint x Porsche, which is also available in rose gold.  This fusion of heritage and refinement brings a unique and distinguished touch to the ordinarily functional Carrera. The result is an appealing chronograph with a hint of vintage luxury that effectively showcases the distinctive Glassbox case.  The price tag for the gold Carrera is comparable to that of the rose gold Chronosprint x Porsche, which means the price is expected and appropriate though not quite a bargain. However, the Chronosprint boasts a more complex movement, making it a better value proposition – though the new Carrera is certainly more appealing in terms of design. The legendary gold Carrera 11...

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Fears Release New Versions of the Brunswick 40 SJX Watches
Panerai Radiomir Quaranta Oct 23, 2023

Fears Release New Versions of the Brunswick 40

British watch brand Fears has revealed new dial colours for one of its primary offerings, the Brunswick 40. The new variants are the Aurora with a mother-of-pearl dial, and the Copper Salmon with its eponymous metallic finish. But the two are not just cosmetic updates as the model has also undergone some improvements, including a larger 40 mm case and a novel typeface employed for the numerals. Initial thoughts Since the re-establishment of the Fears brand six years ago, I have always held an appreciation for the vintage-inspired design of the Brunswick in particular, with its cushion-shaped case and the subtle dial detailing. The highlight among the new additions would be the Aurora, which stands out from the rest of the Fears catalogue. Its mother-of-pearl dial that is comprised of two parts and finished by hand, giving each dial a unique look. The Aurora Having said that, the large case size of 40 mm does leave the new Brunswick somewhat substantial especially given its shape, bringing to mind to the Panerai Radiomir Quaranta. And with a case height of about 11 mm – not thick but not thin either – the case will sit fairly tall on the wrist. The pricing of the new Brunswick depends on the dial: the Copper Salmon is priced at £3,550 with a strap, while the Aurora is available for £3,850, with either being approximately £200 more with the bracelet. These prices are consistent with the existing models in the current collection. Considering the intrinsic features of ...

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Insight: When Simplicity Belies Complexity, the F.P. Journe Chronomètre Optimum SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Chronomètre Optimum Oct 23, 2023

Insight: When Simplicity Belies Complexity, the F.P. Journe Chronomètre Optimum

The Chronomètre Optimum is arguably François-Paul Journe’s most complex no-complication creation. Being a time-only watch, the Chronomètre Optimum displays the same amount of information as the entry-level Chronomètre Souveraine, albeit for more than twice the price, with the Chronomètre Optimum retailing for US$129,500 in platinum and a bit less in gold. On a pleasantly asymmetric dial, the Chronomètre Optimum presents the wearer with the time, down to the second, and a power reserve indicator. Plain as the dial might seem, the Chronomètre Optimum’s appeal lies in its inner, and largely hidden, complexity. In fact, the cal. 1510 within ranks among the most sophisticated time-only movements on the market today. Chronometry Historically the tourbillon was never a complication, though it is often regarded as such today – though some prominent collectors disagree. In this context, it is difficult to label the features of the Chronomètre Optimum true complications. But since the timepiece was designed with chronometry in mind, its features of engineered accuracy might just qualify as a complication. Chronometry in mechanical watchmaking is regarded as a marriage between accuracy and precision, as there is a nuance between the two. Accuracy is the quality of a watch or clock to have a timekeeping deviation as close to zero as possible, whereas precision relates more to the consistency and stability of the timepiece’s rate, rather than to a temporary lack of devi...

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The 25 Most Expensive Watches Ever Sold at Auction Teddy Baldassarre
Oct 20, 2023

The 25 Most Expensive Watches Ever Sold at Auction

How much would you pay for a watch? What if it was the only one of its kind, or a record-breaker in terms of complications, or once owned by someone famous or historically significant? And just how expensive are the most expensive watches to ever change hands in a sale? In today's red-hot watch auction market, the answers, and the sums, may surprise you. Here we run down the list of the top 25 watches in descending order of the price they fetched on the auction block, while spotlighting some of the timepieces with the most fascinating backstories and representing the most impressive technical achievements. You'll find the expected abundance of watches from Patek Philippe and Rolex (the clear leaders in the category) but also a few from other watchmakers, large and small, who've recently broken into the upper echelon. At the end, we'll spotlight the highest selling watches from a few other brands that didn't crack the top 25 but maintain a robust presence on the watch auction scene. 1. Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime Ref. 6300A-010 ($31.19 million, 2019, Christie’s) Patek Philippe unveiled the first Grandmaster Chime watch in 2014 as part of the many celebrations around the Genevan maison’s 175the anniversary. The reference that made history at the Only Watch auction in Geneva in 2019 was a unique piece, the only Grandmaster Chime ever crafted in stainless steel; the Grandmaster Chime models in Patek’s regular collection are all made in precious metals. The watch...

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Habring2 Introduces the Shellman 50th Anniversary Black “Gilt” SJX Watches
Oct 20, 2023

Habring2 Introduces the Shellman 50th Anniversary Black “Gilt”

Following the anniversary edition with a silvered “sector” dial, Tokyo retailer Shellman announces another small-run limited edition with the Habring² Shellman 50th Anniversary “Black”. Available as a chronograph or time-only, the new edition is limited to just 15 watches each. It retains the dial design of the earlier edition, but now in a black “gilt” finish and matched with a stepped bezel. Initial thoughts Vintage-inspired “sector” dials aren’t novel at all, but the new Shellman duo, like the original edition, stand out for their details. At the same time, the fact that they are Habring² means the price-performance ratio is excellent. Amongst the details that make this appealing are the applied markers, gold-powder print, as well as the matched silvered hands for the chronograph. These reveal an attention to detail in the design – unsurprising since Shellman is a respected seller of vintage watches – proving the whole here is greater than the sum of the parts. Though these are slightly more expensive than the first edition – the price is up about 10% – both models now include a steel bracelet. Add to that the weak Japanese yen, and these are a greater value buy than the original pair. Vintage-inspired Created to mark Shellman’s 50th anniversary, the original silver dial model was a nod to the retailer’s 2017 Habring² limited edition – which was launched well before “sector” dials became a fad. The new pair continue with the same ...

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Watches and What Else: the Intersection of Pens and Horology with Brett Braley-Palko Worn & Wound
Oct 19, 2023

Watches and What Else: the Intersection of Pens and Horology with Brett Braley-Palko

Editor’s Note: Watches and What Else is a continuing series where we look at some of the other things our watch collecting community is interested in. We’ve always found watch collectors to be a curious, well rounded bunch, and in this series we’re going to explore a variety of the watch adjacent (and sometimes, not so adjacent) interests of collectors of all stripes. From illustration to aviation, video games and comics to heavy metal and craft cocktails, there’s a lot to explore, and we think you’ll enjoy diving into the pursuits that your fellow watch enthusiasts are passionate about.  This week, Chris Antzoulis talks to novelist, pen industry veteran, and Worn & Wound contributor Brett Braley-Palko about the unexpected connections between mechanical watches and fine writing instruments.  If you stay current with what’s up in the watch space by consuming your daily fill of articles here at Worn & Wound, then you will recognize the name of my subject this month. Brett Braley-Palko is also a fellow W&W; contributor, a watch enthusiast, and an all-around guru on style. However, this is a writer who takes his scribbling seriously. He has quite the collection of pens and is more than happy to share this love with the rest of us.  Watches Brett fell into the world of watches within the last year and says “the threshold into getting into any industry with a big cult following is to recognize your level of expertise and being humble with it […] When I first st...

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IWC Scales Down the Pilot’s Chronograph Top Gun Mojave Desert SJX Watches
IWC Scales Down Oct 19, 2023

IWC Scales Down the Pilot’s Chronograph Top Gun Mojave Desert

After recently introducing a pilot’s watch with a fully-luminous dial and the Big Pilot perpetual in white ceramic, IWC continues to grow its aviation-inspired offerings with the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Top Gun Mojave Desert. First introduced as a limited edition in 2019, the sand-coloured ceramic chronograph is now regular production and in a more wearable size of 41 mm. Initial thoughts One of the standouts in the Top Gun collection has been the Mojave Desert with its beige tones – definitely an unusual colour for a oversized sports watch. However, the colour was only applied to larger models to date. The reintroduction of the Mojave Desert in a more compact size, and standard production to boot, is a good thing – though probably not such a good thing for owners of the limited edition version. The smaller case helps with wearability, making this desirable colour combination available to a wider audience. Size aside, there is no major point of difference. The same can be said for price: the new Mojave Desert chronograph retails for US$11,700, mirroring the price tag of the other ceramic chronographs in the collection. A new size, but same style The Mojave Desert chronograph is the latest addition to the “Colours of Top Gun” collection that draws inspiration from the US Navy’s flight school. The colour choice for this model is influenced by the Mojave Desert that surrounds the US Navy’s TOPGUN fighter pilot academy, and its pilots’ distinctive flight...

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Windup Watch Fair New York Features Record Amount of New Releases this Weekend Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward G-Shock Oris Oct 17, 2023

Windup Watch Fair New York Features Record Amount of New Releases this Weekend

There’s something special about the week leading up to a Windup. Ahead of every Windup-but especially hosting on our home turf, during the changing season-there’s an electricity that keeps us fueled. With the final confirmations and early morning setups to transform The Altman Building into the inimitable Windup Watch Fair 2023, we’d say it’s no different this year…but that’s simply not true. There’s so much new stuff happening this year!   The venue may be the same, but the space is bigger. This year we’re taking over both floors of the Altman Building to host 83 watch and EDC brands from Friday, October 20, through Sunday, October 22. Of these partners, over 35 companies are releasing a new product for first-time public viewings and wrist shots. When you walk into the space, you’ll see some of the biggest names in watches, including our lead sponsors: Bulova, Christopher Ward, G-Shock, Oris, and Zodiac, as well as other incredible brands. Be sure to enter the giveaway at Reception with prizes from G-Shock, Fossil, Timely Soles, and Xeric. And while you’re there pick up our first-ever brand book to help you navigate the space. It also becomes a nice little memento of your time at Windup. As always, the Windup Watch Fair is free to enter and open to the public. Make your plan to come see us this weekend with these details: The Altman Building on 18th Street between 6th and 7th avenues (135 W 18th St) Friday, October 20: 12PM – 6PM Saturday, Octob...

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Porsche Design Chronograph 1 Gets Titanium Carbide Case Worn & Wound
Porsche Design Chronograph 1 Gets Titanium Oct 16, 2023

Porsche Design Chronograph 1 Gets Titanium Carbide Case

The Porsche Design Chronograph 1 is among the great original chronograph designs to which the rules around aging just don’t seem to apply. Whether it’s the original and its many variations, or the modern reinterpretation, which we reviewed here, the Chronograph 1 is a benchmark when it comes to balancing form and function between the dial and case. Since re-introducing the Chronograph 1 in early 2022, a celebration of the watch’s 50th anniversary, Porsche Design has slowly been filling out the collection with interesting variations, largely in line with special releases from Porsche. This latest edition takes a different approach, recalling their past as a military watch, but with a civilian friendly nomenclature: Utility.  The newest addition to the Chronograph 1 collection recalls details from military watches of the ‘70s, with many of the small details represented in a slightly altered manner, from unit insignia, to the tritium marking “3H” circled in red – each are repurposed to create a new, more inclusive platform called Utility. Further still, this is more than a visual exercise as the biggest feature of the new watch is the use of titanium carbide for the case, a material developed and patented by Porsche Design. The material is touted as tougher and lighter than what we presume is the titanium variation of the watch, with a titanium glass bead blasted finish on its exterior. The light gray, matte appearance is uniform with contrasting crown and push...

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Girard-Perregaux Unveils the New and Improved Constant Escapement SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Unveils Oct 14, 2023

Girard-Perregaux Unveils the New and Improved Constant Escapement

Still one of the most notable escapements on the market despite being a decade old, Girard-Perregaux’s double-wheel-and-silicon invention has been refined and revived as the Neo Constant Escapement. Presented in titanium, the Neo Constant Escapement is the regular production version of the unique piece in pink gold made for Only Watch 2023. The calibre within is a revamped version of the 2013 original that retains the double escape wheels and integral constant-force silicon spring, but reworked for superior function. Initial thoughts Technically impressive as it was, the original Constant Escapement (CE) from 2013 was huge (the case was 48 mm, making size one of its biggest weakness) and expensive at the time. That explains in part why the CE never caught on despite its merits. The revamp of the watch ten years old has substantially improved both its function and form. The Neo Constant Escapement (NCE) is both more wearable and more appealing in terms of design. Besides being more compact, the “Neo” case also has a highly domed crystal that shows off the escapement well. Even though the watch has been redesigned, the NCE retains the hyper-modern, open-worked styling of the original. The look certainly suits the inventive nature of the silicon escapement, though it would have been interesting if GP experimented with a classical design, which might have been ironic but attractive for the contrasting ideas. Equally important is the fact that the retail price remains ab...

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Seiko Goes Historical Again with the Prospex Land Mechanical GMT SPB411 SJX Watches
Grand Seiko models Oct 11, 2023

Seiko Goes Historical Again with the Prospex Land Mechanical GMT SPB411

Following the release of the 1970s diver reissue and a solar chronograph inspired by a 1990s design, Seiko has reintroduced another historical model as the Prospex Land Mechanical GMT Limited Edition SPB411. This remake draws inspiration from the Navigator Timer from 1968, the brand’s first dual time zone watch with a 24-hour rotating bezel. Now it’s been given a modern update with a new calibre and tweaks to the dial design while retaining the retro tonneau-shaped case. Initial thoughts The Navigator Timer is not quite as famous as its diving or chronograph counterparts, but still an important vintage “tool” watch amongst vintage Seikos. The Japanese brand has executed its long-awaited revival admirably, offering a contemporary interpretation with a modern movement while maintaining the essence of its original design. It’s worth noting that this reissue should be more accurately described as a dual time zone watch with an independently adjustable 24-hour hand, rather than a genuine GMT with an adjustable local-time hour hand, a feature usually seen in higher-end Grand Seiko models. This distinction means that setting the watch for different time zones involves a few extra steps. However, given its price point, this compromise remains entirely reasonable. Priced at US$1,600, it’s a US$100 increase from the standard Prospex Diver’s GMT. Despite this modest cost bump, opting for this limited edition still offers great value. That said, collectors might be less...

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Are You Coming to the Largest Windup Watch Fair to Date? Our Lead Sponsors are Bringing the Goods! Worn & Wound
Bulova Since Oct 10, 2023

Are You Coming to the Largest Windup Watch Fair to Date? Our Lead Sponsors are Bringing the Goods!

If you’ve already come to a Windup Watch Fair in the past, plan to be pleasantly surprised when we open the doors on October 20th through the 22nd in NYC. If you haven’t been to one before, you’re going to be blown away by the sheer scope of the fair we’ve built out this year. As a reminder, here are the key event details: The Altman Building on 18th Street between 6th and 7th avenues (135 W 18th St) Friday, October 20: 12PM – 6PM Saturday, October 21: 12PM – 6PM Sunday, October 22: 12PM – 5PM Free and open to the public We have over 80 brands showcasing their watches and goods on two floors! This includes a handful of never-before-seen-in-the-metal watches and the introduction of “EDC Alley” to NYC, which was successfully piloted in both San Francisco and Chicago earlier this year. But look no further than our five Lead Sponsors to find some new releases that are sure to make any watch enthusiast jump for joy. Our Lead Sponsors Bulova Since its inception in 1875, Bulova has been synonymous with quality, precision, and innovation in the world of timekeeping. With a rich heritage and a commitment to exceptional craftsmanship, Bulova continues to create watches that blend classic elegance with cutting-edge technology. From the iconic Archive Series to the celebrated CURV and proprietary Precisionist movement, Bulova remains a symbol of excellence in the art of watchmaking. Be sure to check out their collection of classic field watches which will be paired w...

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Business News: Only Watch Reveals Details About Financials and Research SJX Watches
Oct 9, 2023

Business News: Only Watch Reveals Details About Financials and Research

After a unnervingly long wait, Only Watch issued a detailed statement explaining its activities and financials in response to allegations on social media about financial improprieties. While some of the allegations were unfounded, some were useful questions that had to be asked. Fortunately, the statement by Only Watch is not only comprehensive but also promises more to come (once the audited statements are prepared by KPMG Monaco in response to a recently promulgated law in the principality where Only Watch is based). More is certainly needed, but for now the response from Only Watch will quiet reasonable observers. Initial thoughts When the accusations about wrongdoings at Only Watch first emerged on social media, I was sceptical because by and large I believe in Only Watch (I even bought one of the Only Watch timepieces several years ago, albeit an inexpensive one). That said, I could see why such questions came about. The event has become extremely high profile and its founder, Luc Pettavino, a celebrity seemingly dressed in over the top jackets all the time. This all unsurprisingly led to criticism. Still, the fundamental purpose of the auction felt like a genuine cause. I did think some of the questions raised on social media were germane. I expected a swift response from Only Watch, but that took what seemed like a long, long time. Now the reply has arrived and it contains sufficient information that I am reassured, as I think most observers will be. Amongst the not...

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Audemars Piguet Scales Down the Code 11.59 to 38 mm SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Scales Down Oct 5, 2023

Audemars Piguet Scales Down the Code 11.59 to 38 mm

The recently facelifted Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet has received yet another tweak with a scaled-down case that’s now measuring 38 mm. Available in pink gold with either an ivory or purple stamped guilloche dial, the case retains the now familiar Code 11.59 but set apart by its noticeably more compact size. Initial thoughts Since its introduction, the Code 11.59 has faced its fair share of criticism, sometimes unfairly. Nonetheless, Audemars Piguet (AP) continued refine to the design, resulting in more successful releases, notably the Code 11.59 Starwheel. However, all of the models to date were relatively large at 41 mm, with the case design accentuating the size. So the more compact 38 mm case is a good thing, since it will enhance wearability. And given the perceived size of the 41 mm model, the 38 mm version will likely feel look more substantial than it is. At the same time, the size is a more gender-neutral option for potential buyers. Between the two new models, I prefer the purple dial, which marks a pleasing departure from the prevalence of blue and green dials in today’s watch market and also the Code 11.59 collection. But I would have preferred is the removal of the date at three, which does not contribute to the design. The new model remains unmistakable as a Code 11.59, retaining the distinctive sandwich case construction with an octagonal middle. So if you liked the look but wanted a smaller size, this is a more enticing proposition than its predecesso...

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An Icon Is Back In GMT Form – The Bulova Oceanographer GMT Worn & Wound
Bulova Oceanographer GMT GMT’s are Oct 4, 2023

An Icon Is Back In GMT Form – The Bulova Oceanographer GMT

GMT’s are a longtime favorite complication among the Windup Watch Shop crew. And Bulova does not disappoint with the new Oceangrapher GMT, avialable in three different variations. The New Bulova Oceanographer GMT is awesome because it effortlessly combines timeless style with modern functionality. Its retro-inspired design is eye-catching, with a bold and distinctive aesthetic that stands out. Beyond its looks, the GMT complication adds a practical edge, allowing wearers to easily keep track of different time zones, making it an ideal companion for travelers or anyone that wants to keep up with two timezones. Watch the video below to take a closer look at all three models and find out more details right here in the Windup Watch Shop!  GMT’s are a longtime favorite complication among the Windup Watch Shop crew. And Bulova does not disappoint with the new Oceangrapher GMT, avialable in three different variations. The New Bulova Oceanographer GMT is awesome because it effortlessly combines timeless style with modern functionality. Its retro-inspired design is eye-catching, with a bold and distinctive aesthetic that stands out. Beyond its looks, the GMT complication adds a practical edge, allowing wearers to easily keep track of different time zones, making it an ideal companion for travelers or anyone that wants to keep up with two timezones. Watch the video below to take a closer look at all three models and find out more details right here in the Windup Watch...

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Vacheron Constantin Partners the Metropolitan Museum of Art SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Partners Oct 4, 2023

Vacheron Constantin Partners the Metropolitan Museum of Art

Described as an “artistic and cultural alliance”, Vacheron Constantin has just inked a partnership with the Metropolitan Museum of Art of New York. One of the world’s foremost museums, the Met becomes Vacheron Constantin’s second key museum partner after the Louvre. Although the details of their upcoming projects are limited, both institutions have disclosed a shared intention to launch an artist-in-residence programme as well as educational initiatives, and of course debut unique Vacheron Constantin timepieces inspired by artworks in the Met’s collection. Vacheron Constantin chief executive Louis Ferla with Director of the Met, Max Hollein. Image – Vacheron Constantin VC’s immersion in the arts The new partnership represents the brand’s most recent effort to align the realms of fine watchmaking and the arts. While collaborations of this kind are not novel, it seems likely that Vacheron Constantin (VC) will leverage this partnership and use the Met’s artworks as inspiration for exquisite and artisanal timepieces, something it did already with the Louvre in 2019.  As a result of their partnership, VC and the Parisian museum teamed up for a charity auction conducted by Christie’s, where the winning bidder had the privilege of selecting a masterpiece from the Louvre’s collection to be recreated on a grisaille enamel dial of a custom-made Les Cabinotiers timepiece. While the winning bidder could chose from any of the Louvre’s works except for Leonardo ...

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Panerai Turns to the Archives for the Radiomir Guido Panerai & Figlio PAM01346 SJX Watches
Panerai Turns Sep 28, 2023

Panerai Turns to the Archives for the Radiomir Guido Panerai & Figlio PAM01346

Panerai has just taken the covers off a reinterpretation of an intriguing and perhaps experimental variant of the Radiomir characterised by solid lugs. Christened the Radiomir Guido Panerai & Figlio PAM01346, this one-off watch has a platinum case houses an eight-day Angelus SF 240 movement from 1961. It’s set to be sold at Phillips’ Geneva watch auction on November 3 with all proceeds, including the buyer’s premium, going to UNESCO’s marine conservation body, the Intergovernmental Oceanographic Commission (IOC-UNESCO). Initial thoughts It’s frequently true that when a brand decides to tweak its heritage, the result is rarely a standing ovation or zero criticism. The challenge usually arises from the conservative perspective of passionate purists who hold history as gospel, making it difficult to accept changes to a historical concept. Indeed, the one-of-a-kind Radiomir PAM01346 is a prime example of this delicate balancing act. It takes inspiration from the solid-lug Radiomir ref. 3646 – occasionally known as a “transitional Radiomir” though it was more experimental than transitional – and while the PAM01346 may not replicate the original entirely, it truly stands out as a contemporary reinterpretation that captures many key elements of the original, including the meticulously restored, period-correct Angelus movement. Regardless of one’s perspective, the PAM01346 is undeniably a homage to an obscure but significant model in Panerai’s history, despit...

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