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Inside Tudor Manufacture: The Pursuit of Mechanical and Industrial Perfection SJX Watches
Tudor Manufacture May 1, 2023

Inside Tudor Manufacture: The Pursuit of Mechanical and Industrial Perfection

Tudor, in my estimation, makes watches that are the best value in the under-US$5,000 price segment. In fact, the brand arguably offers the best value proposition in most price segments, simply because its watches have specs, features, and quality that are unrivalled, even at several steps up the price ladder. The brand’s value proposition began in 2015 when Tudor launched its first in-house movement inside the unloved North Flag. But the compelling nature of its watches notwithstanding, Tudor has long suffered from being perceived as a “lesser” Rolex. In fairness, that was probably an apt description of the brand up until the mid 2000s when Tudor began its gradual but determined evolution into an independent brand. The most tangible testament to Tudor’s success as its own brand came online last year, when the Tudor manufacture in Le Locle began operations. The manufacture is the first time ever that Tudor has its own factory. Historically the brand relied on Rolex cases and outsourced movements, and operated from several floors inside the Rolex campus in Geneva. Now Tudor boasts an impressive, no-expense-spared facility that spans a generous 10,642 m2 (about 114,000 ft2), with half of that being workspace, a scale that easily allows for an annual production of up to the mid-six figures. With a roof covered in solar panels and a foundation that stretches deep into the bedrock of the Swiss Jura, the manufacture is a monument to high-quality, affordable watchmaking. ...

The Ball Engineer Roadmaster Pilot GMT Green offers a unique take on a true GMT Time+Tide
Apr 30, 2023

The Ball Engineer Roadmaster Pilot GMT Green offers a unique take on a true GMT

The new Ball Engineer Roadmaster Pilot GMT Hulk comes with a green-on-green colour scheme, a quick-set date, and a true GMT caliber  It has a compact case of 40mm made of lightweight titanium  The new Roadmaster Pilot GMT Hulk is limited to 1,000 pieces  GMT watches are becoming increasingly popular, and brands big and small … ContinuedThe post The Ball Engineer Roadmaster Pilot GMT Green offers a unique take on a true GMT appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Cartier Introduces the Tank Normale Skeleton SJX Watches
Cartier Introduces Apr 21, 2023

Cartier Introduces the Tank Normale Skeleton

Having just introduced a revived version of the classic Tank Normale, Cartier also debuted a modern take on the design, the Tank Normale Skeleton. It’s equipped with a in-house skeletonised movement done in Cartier’s typical geometric style, but with a discreet twist in the form of a 24-hour time display. Initial thoughts  At a glance the Tank Normale Skeleton might seem like yet another skeletonised Tank, of which there have been several over the years. But look closer and it emerges as something more interesting. The dial tells the time on a 24-hour scale, a modest complication in mechanical terms but one that references Cartier’s historical day-and-night timepieces. And the complication is echoed in the sun-and-moon motif of the bridges rendered in a complementary Art Deco style. In short, it’s an elegant take on the day-and-night display done in quintessential Cartier style. Created especially for this model, the calibre inside is notably attractive. It’s fairly symmetrical in layout – the balance is at 12 o’clock while the barrel sits at six – and finished to match the style of the bridges. But it does still have an Etachron regulator, which is found in all Cartier skeleton movements but still out of place considering the price. And the price is steep. At US$71,000 in yellow gold and slightly more in platinum, it is pricey for a relatively straightforward skeleton watch. In comparison, the Santos-Dumont Skeleton Micro-Rotor also launched this year is ...

H. Moser Gets in the Salmon Game with a New Streamliner and a Smokey Textured Dial Worn & Wound
H. Moser Gets Apr 19, 2023

H. Moser Gets in the Salmon Game with a New Streamliner and a Smokey Textured Dial

If you’ve been following the trajectory of H. Moser over the last few years, you know how important the Streamliner platform is to them. It’s one of very few entrants into the competitive integrated bracelet sports watch landscape that feels truly original, taking inspiration not from earlier integrated bracelet sports watches, but from the streamline moderne design philosophy, an offshoot of sorts of the Art Deco movement that gave us iconic building, train, and car designs, and eventually seeped into many other aspects of our everyday lives. The flowing lines of the Streamliner’s case and bracelet are often called “organic” for the way they evoke something that’s about to come to life, especially as it’s draped over your wrist, but one look at the aerodynamic locomotive designs of the 1930s tells you all you need to know about where the design inspiration for the watch really comes from.  In any case, the Streamliner has struck a chord with watch lovers, and if we’re to believe forum chatter and anecdotes from collectors, it’s one of the tougher watches to get your hands on in the world of independent sports watches. So the release of any new Streamliner is a bit of an event, and the latest example begins a new chapter, replacing the green fumé Center Seconds model (the purest and least complicated version of the Streamliner) with a dial that the brand calls “smoked salmon,” and features a griffé finish that is typically reserved for Moser limite...

The Czapek Antarctique P.04 Lanikai for Collective arrives on a cool blue wave Time+Tide
Czapek Antarctique P.04 Lanikai Apr 18, 2023

The Czapek Antarctique P.04 Lanikai for Collective arrives on a cool blue wave

The integrated design of the Czapek Antarctique P.04 Lanikai for Collective is the latest collab project created for the membership of Collective Horology A painstakingly crafted blue enamel dial evokes the aquamarine waters of the Pacific near Hawaii The in-house SXH5 movement is a visual wonder in its own right, providing an equally exquisite view … ContinuedThe post The Czapek Antarctique P.04 Lanikai for Collective arrives on a cool blue wave appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Breguet Classique Quantième Perpétuel 7327 SJX Watches
Breguet Classique Quantième Perpétuel 7327 Apr 17, 2023

Up Close: Breguet Classique Quantième Perpétuel 7327

Breguet has announced a new flagship perpetual calendar wristwatch, the Classique Quantième Perpétuel 7327. Succeeding the ref. 5327 that’s been in the catalogue almost two decades, the new ref. 7327 retains the traditional style that defines the brand while incorporating refinements and gentle modernisation in the design. Importantly, the ref. 7327 features a new perpetual calendar mechanism that boasts an elaborate retrograde display that illustrates Breguet’s sophisticated approach to movement construction. Initial thoughts The design of the ref. 7327 is quintessential Breguet and indisputably the main attraction. The orderly yet asymmetrical dial finished in guilloche, pomme hands, and the slim case with a fluted band – it is Breguet. Yet I’d be remiss not to mention the immense charm and finesse the ref. 7327 exudes. Thoughtfully executed dress watches are seldom encountered today, especially ones with svelte, just-right proportions, but this a niche that Breguet has mastered with consistency and quality. The design of the ref. 7327 is particularly interesting because it is clearly classic Breguet, but with a modern twist. The dial is slightly cleaner than old-school Breguet wristwatches, which were often elaborately, and sometimes fussily, decorated. But unlike the facelifted ref. 7337, for instance, which traditionalists might argue is too modern, the ref. 7327 is still eminently classical. Additionally, the addition of a retrograde month display at 11 ...

In Conversation with Simon Brette on the Chronomètre Artisans Souscription That Launches his Brand Revolution
Simon Brette Apr 12, 2023

In Conversation with Simon Brette on the Chronomètre Artisans Souscription That Launches his Brand

The name Simon Brette might be unfamiliar to most, but the 35-year-old watchmaker has spent a decade behind the scenes at some of the most creative independent watch companies in Switzerland. In 2021, he decided to start a business that is centered on independent artisans, with himself as the movement designer. The Chronomètre Artisans Souscription […]

Chronomètre Artisans Subscription Edition by Simon Brette: Sensational, Superlative, and Simply Sublime Independent Watchmaking at its Very Best Quill & Pad
MB&F; Apr 12, 2023

Chronomètre Artisans Subscription Edition by Simon Brette: Sensational, Superlative, and Simply Sublime Independent Watchmaking at its Very Best

Simon Brette is a young movement designer with a history of working with Jean-François Mojon’s Chronode, MCT, and MB&F;, who has now begun his own adventure of pushing the boundaries of traditional haute horlogerie. Brette launches his eponymous brand with the Chronomètre Artisans Subscription Edition, which sold out long before launch.

The Czapek Antarctique Révélation opens its heart to watch aficionados Time+Tide
Czapek Antarctique Révélation opens Apr 11, 2023

The Czapek Antarctique Révélation opens its heart to watch aficionados

Czapek has expanded their best-selling integrated Antarctique line with the stunning open-worked Révélation The new in-house SXH7 auto-winding movement is an evolution of their SXH5, completely reworked for maximum visual impact on both sides The Révélation is also the first non-chrono Antarctique with a skeletonised dial Open-worked dials can be one of the most thrilling … ContinuedThe post The Czapek Antarctique Révélation opens its heart to watch aficionados appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The mind-blowing majesty of the Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Dual Moon Grand Complication Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Dual Moon Apr 10, 2023

The mind-blowing majesty of the Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Dual Moon Grand Complication

Vacheron Constantin drops an incredible one-of-one reference from its Les Cabinotiers collection for Watches & Wonders 2023 The Les Cabinotiers Dual Moon Grand Complication is a two-dialled expression of the pinnacle of Vacheron’s craft No less than 774 components make up the elaborate movement that boasts 11 complications It’s hard to overstate the level of … ContinuedThe post The mind-blowing majesty of the Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Dual Moon Grand Complication appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Louis Vuitton Introduces the Voyager Skeleton SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Introduces Apr 10, 2023

Louis Vuitton Introduces the Voyager Skeleton

Louis Vuitton has been steadily growing its presence in the realm of serious watchmaking, an endeavour that began with its purchase of movement specialist La Fabrique de Temps (LFT) a decade ago. While its recent launches have been extravagant in typical Louis Vuitton style – ranging from a gothic automaton to the casino-inspired jump hours – the brand’s latest is contemporary and low key. Enter the Voyager Skeleton, an open-worked timepiece that incorporates Louis Vuitton’s design language in an unexpectedly minimalist design.  Initial thoughts While Louis Vuitton’s top-of-the-line complications are certainly showstoppers, its simpler, regular production watches have historically been a mixed bag. But with a clear change in direction at its watch division, changes seem to be afoot, beginning with the Voyager Skeleton. Granted, it is hardly an affordable watch at over US$50,000, but it is a good looking time-only watch. The highlight is the styling of the open-worked LV60 movement that is both striking and restrained. The bridges possesses a distinctive, geometric style that is decidedly architectural. Although the automatic-winding bridge clearly forms a large “LV”, the branding is surprisingly discreet. In fact, the face of the watch has no overt branding, save for the open-worked barrel. Overall, the execution of the movement is appealing and lives up to expectations, save for one detail – the Etachron regulator looks out of place considering the ...

Grand Seiko evokes rosy cherry blossom with the Hana-ikada SBGY026 Time+Tide
Grand Seiko evokes rosy cherry blossom Apr 4, 2023

Grand Seiko evokes rosy cherry blossom with the Hana-ikada SBGY026

Grand Seiko makes the most of their gorgeous cherry blossom-inspired dial, this time in a rose-gold case The SBGY026 will appeal to the smaller-wristed, measuring in at 38.5mm in diameter and just 43.7mm lug-to-lug A manually wound Spring Drive 9R31 movement keeps the watch slim at just a smidge over 10mm It’s safe to say … ContinuedThe post Grand Seiko evokes rosy cherry blossom with the Hana-ikada SBGY026 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Grand Seiko SBGE295 “Mt. Hotaka Peaks” GMT is inspired by lush mountain woods Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGE295 “Mt Hotaka Peaks” Apr 3, 2023

The Grand Seiko SBGE295 “Mt. Hotaka Peaks” GMT is inspired by lush mountain woods

The Grand Seiko SBGE295 takes the Mt. Motaka dial in a verdant direction with a silvery-green finish The asymmetrical bi-colour bezel is luminous in its white section, and is covered with a sapphire insert The 44mm case is 200m water resistant, and is powered by the 9R66 Spring Drive movement The term ‘forest green’ has … ContinuedThe post The Grand Seiko SBGE295 “Mt. Hotaka Peaks” GMT is inspired by lush mountain woods appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: New Chanel timepieces and jewelry presented at Watches and Wonders 2023 Revolution
Chanel timepieces Apr 1, 2023

VIDEO: New Chanel timepieces and jewelry presented at Watches and Wonders 2023

Chanel has been relentlessly advancing its watchmaking technicality. After acquiring a stake in Kenissi 2021, Chanel debuted a smaller J12 in 2022 that was powered by a movement developed by the movement-building powerhouse that is Kenissi – and this was just the start of an exhilarating partnership. Discover Watches and Wonders 2023 novelties like the […]

VIDEO: Grand Seiko presents new chronograph, diver and métiers d’art watches at Watches and Wonders 2023 Revolution
Grand Seiko presents new chronograph diver Mar 31, 2023

VIDEO: Grand Seiko presents new chronograph, diver and métiers d’art watches at Watches and Wonders 2023

Let’s take a moment to appreciate the technical complexity of the new Grand Seiko Tentagraph SLGC001, the brand’s first fully mechanical chronograph that Grand Seiko developed entirely in-house. This vertical clutch column wheel chronograph has been rigorously tested and boasts a standard +5/-3 daily deviation. Its 9SC5 movement is a high-beat 5Hz movement accurate to […]

Speake-Marin introduces a new date complication to their breathtaking Ripples collection Time+Tide
Speake-Marin Mar 30, 2023

Speake-Marin introduces a new date complication to their breathtaking Ripples collection

Whenever a new watch is introduced, there’s usually an aspect of the design that jumps out, whether it’s a stunning dial, unique case architecture, or a gorgeous movement. And sometimes, you find all three in one watch. The new Speake-Marin Ripples Date is that watch. This release remixes the multi-angled razzle-dazzle that you find in … ContinuedThe post Speake-Marin introduces a new date complication to their breathtaking Ripples collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Chopard President Karl-Friedrich Scheufele presents new Alpine Eagle and L.U.C. 1860 timepieces Revolution
Chopard President Karl-Friedrich Scheufele presents Mar 30, 2023

VIDEO: Chopard President Karl-Friedrich Scheufele presents new Alpine Eagle and L.U.C. 1860 timepieces

See the new Chopard novelties up close with Chopard President Karl-Friedrich Scheufele and Revolution Founder Wei Koh. At Watches and Wonders 2023, Mr Scheufele and his vaunted brand unveiled the Chopard Alpine Eagle XPS with salmon dial, which is driven by the chronometer-certified L.U.C 96.40-L movement with 65 hours of power reserve; and the high-frequency […]

The Patek Philippe 5316P Grand Complications goes for a contemporary grail vibe Time+Tide
Patek Philippe 5316P Grand Complications goes Mar 29, 2023

The Patek Philippe 5316P Grand Complications goes for a contemporary grail vibe

Patek Philippe renders the five grail-worthy complications in a case combining classical and contemporary The sapphire dial subtly shows off the inner workings of the manually wound movement Unlike many pieces, the 5316 hides the tourbillon from the dial, only displaying it via an interchangeable sapphire or solid caseback It’s always a special occasion when … ContinuedThe post The Patek Philippe 5316P Grand Complications goes for a contemporary grail vibe appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Czapek Opens the Dial of Antarctique in New Révélation Worn & Wound
Czapek Opens Mar 28, 2023

Czapek Opens the Dial of Antarctique in New Révélation

Czapek is following up their new Dark Titanium Antarctique (which we introduced to you right here) with something a bit different in the form of the Révélation. This variant offers an openworked dial to enjoy the new purpose-built SXH7 movement within. Doing open dials is something of an artform, and Czapek has proven quite adept at maximizing the space given. To do so here, they had to alter the core of their SXH5 movement to such a degree that it became something else entirely in the process. The payoff was clearly worth it, offering a beautiful view into the unique design language of Czapek’s movement ethos.  The Antarctique Révélation expands on the rapidly maturing collection, and sets a new tone in the process. This case and bracelet have proven they can easily adapt to a variety of dial configurations, from the very simple, managing the focal point; to the relatively wild, thus relinquishing it. This watch is clearly an example of the latter, with one of those dials that just keeps on giving, with small details and hidden away areas to discover. Perhaps the most interesting part of this watch is the commitment to the movement in an effort to get the openworked details right. It began, according to Czapek, with a request from a fan of the brand. CEO Xavier de Roquemaurel explains: “People were in love with the remarkable design of our SXH5 movement, and we therefore asked ourselves how we could somehow make it visible on the dial” and …”soon a far more...

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph mixes business and pleasure Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph mixes Mar 28, 2023

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph mixes business and pleasure

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph unites a chronograph with a double-sided display Draws inspiration from the first Reverso Chronograph of 1996 To showcase the chronograph movement, the dial is entirely skeletonised There’s a strong argument to be made that the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso should really be classified as sports watch. It was, after all, specifically developed … ContinuedThe post Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph mixes business and pleasure appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Rolex Redesigns the Daytona for 60th Anniversary Worn & Wound
Rolex Redesigns Mar 27, 2023

Rolex Redesigns the Daytona for 60th Anniversary

Rolex has given the Daytona its first proper redesign since the 116520 was released in 2000. With it comes an updated movement, and a few nods to older references that we’ve been asking for, as well a surprise or two along the way. The new Daytona design replaces all existing references with a new base collection that spans from steel; yellow Rolesor; yellow, white, and Everose gold; and of course, platinum. Each receives an updated 4131 automatic movement which finally brings stuff like the Chronergy escapement to the collection. It also gets an openworked oscillating weight, which, for the first time ever on a Daytona, is visible through an exhibition caseback on the platinum anniversary reference.  At a glance, the new Daytona doesn’t look all that different from the outgoing references. This is very much an iteration of the same concept that’s been evolving since 1953. The most immediately apparent departure from the prior generation is the thickness of the rings surrounding the sub dials, the shape of the hour markers, and the bezel construction. They add up to a notably different vibe that presents a slightly jarring take on the dial design thanks to the altered proportions. The thinner sub dial surrounds in particular highlight this difference, and it’s a detail most noticeable on the steel examples as they are contrasted against the dial color alone. The precious metal references get those sub dials filled in, which work well here. One of the most welcomed...