Hodinkee
Introducing: The Zenith Defy Revival Shadow In Titanium
A funky vintage revival gets an unexpected lightweight, monochromatic update.
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Hodinkee
A funky vintage revival gets an unexpected lightweight, monochromatic update.
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Gold Longines Here’s a little gem that has loads of style and bling despite its small size. The case is solid 14k yellow gold, but is only 31mm wide, so not really for those with big wrists. What it lacks in size it makes up with design and style. The bezel is two tiered, with the bottom tier having a crosshatched texture that matches the gold dial, and the upper tier has radial grooves at each hour that also serve as the hour markers. The lugs are thin and smooth for a nice contrast. The gold dial has crosshatched texture and looks to be in great shape the printed Longines logo and applied flying hourglass badge, with thin stick hands. Quite simple and elegant, while blingy at the same time. The crown is signed which is always nice to have. No movement pics but seller states it runs and keeps time. Really great looking gold dress watch for those that like a smaller watch. View auction here. Hamilton LED Calendar Watch More gold, but this time gold plated and definitely a more ‘modern’ design than the Longines above! This vintage Hamilton LED watch has a classic future 1970’s look which is what I love about these vintage LED watches. Condition is fantastic, and the wat...
Quill & Pad
At a blind wine tasting many years ago that included a superb Petrus, for many of the tasters, including Ken Gargett, the superstar on the night, was something called Masseto, an Italian Merlot from the 1993 vintage. At the time, none of them had even heard of Masseto, let alone had any idea that an Italian Merlot might top one of the most famous wines on the planet. It was an obscure Italian Merlot back then, but all that would soon change.
Worn & Wound
Last week, news of the latest marquee lot to go under the hammer via Phillips broke across watch media. The phrase “historically significant” is often used to describe high profile vintage watches that go up for auction, but very few actually feel truly historic. I would argue that this particular Patek Philippe, a watch that once belonged to Aisin-Gioro Puyi, the Last Emperor of the Qing Dynasty, meets just about any definition for historically significant that you can come up with. Not only did it belong to a figure from our relatively recent history that marked a profound change in a nation’s history, but in terms of vintage Patek, this complicated Calatrava is worth studying even outside the scope of its significant owner. If you’re not familiar with Puyi’s story, a brief introduction or refresher is certainly in order to properly contextualize the watch. Aisin-Gioro Puyi became the Emperor of China at the age of 2, abdicated his throne at 7, and was held as a political prisoner by the Soviets following World War II. Puyi led an uncommon and complex life through a period of great political upheaval, but it’s notable that despite the title of Emperor that was thrust upon him as a boy, he never held significant power as a world leader. In his brief stint as the final Emperor of the Qing Dynasty he was essentially a figurehead, and later served as the puppet leader of Manchukuo for the Japanese following their invasion of Manchuria in 1932. Puyi is seen by s...
Time+Tide
The Depancel Legend 60s is their first hand-wound mechanical chronograph. It follows a more competitive and serious design language than the Meca-Quartz Serie-A Stradale. The Seagull ST1901 movement is based on a vintage Swiss movement - the Venus 175. If you’ve somehow missed some of our previous articles about Depancel, then the first thing you’ll … ContinuedThe post The Depancel Legend 60s is a twin-register throwback with bags of style appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Quill & Pad
Tutima and luxury leather goods company Esquivel have collaborated on a timepiece set in which they opted to use a restrained patina for the leathers, which are embellished with a hand-etched compass rose. These elements combine to provide a vintage feel that goes very nicely with the Patria Dual Time and its spirit of exploring the world.
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Pierce Chronograph First up this week is a gorgeous early vintage Piece jumbo chronograph. The fancy stainless steel case measures a healthy 37mm wide, and features brilliant curved lugs with stylin’ chamfers. The case does show some light wear, but overall looks pretty sharp. The dial looks original and shows a bit of patina as it should. The up/down subdial configuration with the upper dial being larger than the lower really stands out. The hands are diamond shaped and lume filled. I’m guessing the hands have been relumed, but they look good to me. Seller states the Pierce manual wind chronograph movement has just been serviced and works perfectly. Really sharp early chrono that has lots of character. View auction here. Solid Gold Bulova Accutron Calendar Need some bling in your life? Check out this vintage 1967 killer asymmetrical solid 14k yellow gold Accutron 218. If you don’t already know, the Accutron 218 is their second generation tuning fork movement and is an absolute classic. These are great movements that usually keep great time and the batteries are readily available. This model has a vertically asymmetrical shield shaped case with skinny lugs on top and fat...
SJX Watches
Having built a reputation with original timepieces characterised by Neo-Gothic flair, Stepan Sarpaneva celebrates his 20th year in watchmaking with a pair in typical Sarpaneva style – Stardust and Stardust “Nostromo”. Limited to twenty pieces each, the duo embody Sarpaneva’s trademark aesthetic styling in their hand-finished, open-worked dials and Korona case. Initial thoughts I have long admired Sarpaneva for being different. The man has a unique and often quirky vision of watchmaking that is evident in his timepieces, which are also finished well in terms of cases and dials. While Sarpaneva has not done much in terms of movements, his original approach is very much independent watchmaking. While different from its past offerings, both Stardust variants are still recognisably Sarpaneva with their radial dial motif and sculpted case. Stardust (left) and Stardust “Nostromo” The iridescent colours of the Stardust are not exactly novel, but it is a different take on the fashionable “rainbow” watch and it is certainly executed well since Sarpaneva does impressive dial work in its price segment. On the other hand, the dark colours of the Stardust “Nostromo” give it a more sci-fi feel that goes well with Sarpaneva’s house style. Both Stardust model are priced at €16,500 each, making them slightly affordable than the comparably spec’ed Valterri Bottas “Kilpisjärvi” released last year. While hefty on its face, the price tag is easily justifi...
Hodinkee
This 600-piece limited edition puts a vintage favorite in a modern package.
Worn & Wound
Nivada Grenchen’s Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver represents their interpretation of a multi-functional steel sports chronograph teeming with vintage attributes. The collection’s signature – a two subdial display, tachymeter scale integrated into the outer dial, and a rotating bezel that subtly incorporates a 12 hour display giving the already highly capable chronograph the ability to track another timezone. The vintage aesthetic doesn’t just harken back to the designs of your classic steel sport of watch of the 60’s and 70’s, it actually pulls from the very same design cues of the original Nivada Grenchen chronographs. Nivada’s current Chronoking Manual in particular retains the collection’s design language, but doubles down on the age-old appearance with its chocolate-toned subdials and yellow markers. Topping it all off, the Chronoking encases a Sellita SW510 manual movement in a tidy 38mm case. These are all attractive features and the norm within the Chronoking, as well as the rest of the Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver collection. The only caveat here is that their chronographs are positioned within a crowded price tier filled with brands offering something relatively similar in design and function. However recently, Nivada Grenchen released a very enticing iteration of their Chronoking in the Chronoking Meca-Quartz. Albeit sold out, the Nivada Grenchen Chronoking Meca-Quartz includes all the charming traits and functionality at an approachable $479. Vi...
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Hodinkee
I didn't forget about vintage Rolex or Heuer either.
Quill & Pad
The style of Gosset champagnes tends to complex, richly flavored wines. Powerful Pinot components and the steel and elegance of fine Chardonnay. Ken Garett shares his thoughts on the 2088 vintage.
Quill & Pad
Long name aside, the Cricket Tradition “Vulcain Salute” is an awesomely vintage reissue of a Vulcain Cricket with a quirky twist.
Time+Tide
Having previously owned two vintage watches powered by Landeron movements, I’ve always believed they were unsung heroes in the world of Swiss chronographs. One of the watches I had was a Rotary that dated all the way back to 1937, and the Landeron 47 inside it still worked perfectly and intuitively. Méraud have made my … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Méraud Antigua is a yachting watch that bobs along on a delightfully retro wave appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
The Aquastar Deepstar II is the latest watch to get the limited edition treatment from our friends over at Fratello, and it might be the nicest looking iteration yet on the unapologetically vintage inspired diver. We first told you about the Deepstar II back in late 2021, when the watch made its debut in the afterglow of the cult favorite Deepstar Chronograph. These watches have an abundance of charm thanks to a well thought out asymmetry, excellent use of key vintage cues, and a size that is literally just about perfect for a watch of this style. As we pointed when the Deepstar II first came to our attention, dial color plays an outsize role in how the watch lands, and that holds true with the new Fratello version, which is very much the Deepstar we’ve come to know, but with nicely curated touches that give it a fresh life. The word of the day when describing the Deepstar II is, without a doubt, “compact.” If you’re accustomed to big, bruising modern divers from Seiko, Tudor, and the like, strapping Deepstar II to your wrist will feel somewhat alien at first. The case measures 36.7mm wide and just 46mm lug to lug, but it’s 13mm thick, which makes these watches wear squat on the wrist with a presence you wouldn’t expect from the listed dimensions. Aquastar has always framed the Deepstar II as a thought experiment of sorts, imagining the type of diver the brand would have followed up the Deepstar Chronograph with back in the late 60s (unlike the chrono, this d...
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Worn & Wound
Back in the days, when the market for an affordable GMT was incredibly sparse, I distinctly recall the Bulova Accutron Astronaut as being one of the potential vintage options to add to the collection. At the time, I was already attracted to the aesthetic of a 24 hour steel bezel on a black dial watch, and the pairing of its faded green markers, as well as the italicized Astronaut wordmark, made it all the more appealing. Sadly, the Astronaut never made its way into the watchbox. Since then however, we’ve seen Bulova release several Accutron models in the form of the Legacy Collection, Spaceview, and DNA. But despite popular reissued designs like the Bulova Lunar Pilot Chronograph, we have yet to see a re-edition of the Accutron Astronaut GMT … until today. The new Accutron Astronaut is based off of the original 1968 “T” model featuring a distinct 41mm saucer steel case and a short lug set that just reveal themselves under the bezel. From overhead, the bezel eclipses the entire case making you want to look sideways at the thing. Like literally, sideways. Doing so displays the slim midcase that then angles inwards towards the caseback. No battery hatch here, as the caseback sports a semicircle exhibition display akin to that of a window on a space shuttle, providing an opportunity to peer inside at the Astronaut’s Sellita SW330 GMT movement. Despite the name Accutron, where its latter syllable is derived from the word “electronic,” from the original model’s t...
Quill & Pad
Wine can be so much more than just an enjoyable drink. It can link us to times, people, and places. A traditional concept for so-called anniversary wines is to celebrate a milestone, perhaps a birthday or wedding or even anniversary, with a fine bottle from the vintage of the birthyear or anniversary year in question. With that in mind, Ken Gargett shares a few suggestions.
Hodinkee
The week in drops and news, plus our ex-newbie picks a Grand Seiko and an off-topic ode to vintage Movado.
Hodinkee
This is the story of Toshio Masu, the vintage watch dealer who supported the Japanese market from behind the scenes.
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Seiko Automatic Alarm Bell-Matic You can never go wrong with vintage Seiko, especially when it’s a Bell-Matic alarm! Of course, we all have alarms on our phones, but then again, we also have clocks and we’re wearing watches right? The Bell-Matic alarms are killer, and their little chirping sound is just so cool. This model is an early one, from 1971 and has a nice chunky 70’s style cushion case. The 38mm wide case looks superb and unpolished with the original brushed finish. The crown is unsigned which is correct. The silver dial is super clean and the watch runs and works as it should per the seller. And best of all it comes on its original ‘coffin link’ bracelet, so it’s ready to rock. View auction here. Elgin Black Knight Here’s a rare one for you bidding pleasure, the unique and iconic Elgin Black Knight. This design masterpiece hails from the 1950’s and just screams “Atomic Age” with its distinctive yellow gold fill case and lugs. I don’t even know how to properly describe them, but one look and you know it’s a Black Knight. The 28mm case is in excellent condition, with no wear through. The lugs are the star here, but the wide, flat bezel is quite ...
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Hodinkee
From the expected (vintage Rolex, Patek, and Cartier) to the unexpected (unique Parmigiani, Franck Muller, and Breguet) rare watches were on wrists and on sale in Miami Beach.
Time+Tide
I’m sure that everyone on the Time+Tide team has valid reasons for why their pick won 2022. And they’re wrong. The correct answer is Tudor. All kidding aside, it was an easy choice for me, given my proclivity for all things vintage tool watch. In fact, it wasn’t even close. Last year saw Tudor going … ContinuedThe post Which watch brand won 2022? D.C. picks Tudor and here’s why… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Twenty twenty-three marks the 70th anniversary of Blancpain’s landmark dive watch, the Fifty Fathoms. Introduced in 1953, the diver was revived in 2003. Kicking off the commemorative editions is the Fifty Fathoms “70th Anniversary Act 1”, the first instalment in a year’s worth of anniversary models. Like the current model, the “Act 1” is inspired by the vintage model, but sports dimensions patterned after the original from seven decades ago, with a reduced case diameter of just over 42 mm. Initial thoughts The familiar form of the modern dive watch is due in part to the Fifty Fathoms – whether that or the Rolex Submariner was launched first is an endless debate – so it is unsurprising that Blancpain’s current catalogue includes a vast array of Fifty Fathoms-inspired timepieces. Thankfully, Blancpain has done something to cater to watch enthusiasts with the anniversary model that has a smaller diameter, perhaps in response to criticism that the closest equivalent in the line-up is 45 mm wide (Blancpain does offer dive watches with smaller cases, but they are either limited editions or the Bathyscaphe). Even though the anniversary watch is broadly similar to the standard Fifty Fathoms in terms of design, it has been refined and arguably improved, especially on the dial. Blancpain skipped the easy route of copying the earlier model and scaling it down. Instead the designers commendably captured the spirit of the original with the vintage typography un...
Time+Tide
Ah, the French. So stylish, yet so understated. I’m generalising, of course, but if you were ever searching for a watch with a vintage elegance that whispers, but never shouts, France’s Baltic has found their voice. Their Aquascaphe diver is pure mid-century perfection, familiar without ever seeming blatantly derivative. Oh, you’ll catch little glimpses of Blancpain’s … ContinuedThe post The Baltic Aquascaphe continues to sell out on a regular basis. Here’s why… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
How a life of adventure made me look to the funky past via a vintage Aquadive Time-Depth Electronic.
Video
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