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Monochrome
Roger Dubuis continues its creative partnership with tattoo artist Dr Woo in the third chapter of their collaborative series: the Excalibur Monotourbillon Dr Woo Episode III. Following the debut of Episode I in 2021 and the ceramic-cased Monobalancier Episode II in 2023, this new model dives deeper into space-inspired storytelling, merging symbolic design with technical […]
Fratello
The third time that Dr. Woo, LA-based tattoo artist to the stars, and Genevan watchmaker Roger Dubuis collaborate, it takes on a galactic peace mission. The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Monotourbillon Dr. Woo Episode III shows design elements only found in the unimaginable depths of space. After traveling galaxies yet unknown to humankind, the creative expedition […] Visit Introducing: The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Monotourbillon Dr. Woo Episode III - Prepare Yourself For An Imaginary Intergalactic Trip to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Louis Erard and Konstantin Chaykin are closing their “Time Eater” collaboration with the final pair in the series, the Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Konstantin Chaykin III Blue and Red. Retaining the familiar “cyclops” regulator dial inspired by the Russian watchmaker’s Wristmons, the new pair will be the last collaboration between the two in this format. Louis Erard and Konstantin Chaykin are working on future collaborations, but those will be in a different style. The blue version is 42 mm and available only from Louis Erard, while the red model is 39 mm and will be sold only by Konstantin Chaykin. The 42 mm model in blue Initial thoughts Louis Erard has done a great number of collaborations with independent watchmakers, but the Konstantin Chaykin Time Eater ranks amongst the best of them. Like the second Vianney Halter collab, the Time Eater captures the spirit of the watchmaker’s original creation while being affordable. I look forward to the next collaboration with Mr Chaykin, because I am sure it will be interesting. Admittedly the latest pair are only a cosmetic tweak on the earlier editions, but the Time Eater is still an appealing concept that’s priced right. Both versions adopts the standard Louis Erard regulator case, which makes it a little too thick, but that’s an acceptable compromise for affordability. The two are the third Time Eater project, and Louis Erard chief Manuel Emch has confirmed they will close the Time Eater regulator series. The ...
Worn & Wound
I recently visited the Aristo Vollmer watch and bracelet manufacturer in the Black Forest town of Pforzheim. Aristo-Vollmer was founded 14 years ago as a merger of two well-known companies from the towns of Birkenfeld and Pforzheim. After three generations in the possession of the founding Epple family, the watch manufacturer Aristo Watch was sold in 1998 to Hansjörg Vollmer, a member of the founding family of watch bracelet manufacturer Vollmer, which has been associated with Aristo since 1927. Hansjörg Vollmer is a grandson of the founder of the metal bracelet manufactory Vollmer (Vollmer, Evvo, New Line), which was founded in 1922 and had maintained business relations with Aristo since 1927. After World War II, the production of bracelets moved from Birkenfeld to Pforzheim where it is still located next to the Pforzheim train station. Since 2005, the Aristo-Vollmer’s portfolio includes watch brands (Aristo, Aristomatic, Aristocrat, Messerschmitt, Vollmer, Bellana, Aristella, and Erbprinz) as well as bracelets (stainless steel, titanium, carbon), buckles, and deployant clasps. The bracelets are used for its own watch brands, and supplied to retailers, as well as outside the group. Recently Aristo added Klaus Jakob’s Jacques Etoile brand, which we’ll come back to a little later. Hansjörg is an intriguing personality, very driven yet approachable. He is a high-speed fanatic and professionally races BMW motorcycles, and even custom builds them upon request. I att...
Time+Tide
Andrew gets hands-on with Maurice de Mauriac's third tennis-inspired watch with Racquet Magazine.The post The Maurice de Mauriac Rallymaster III offers a grass court dial inspired by Wimbledon (live unboxing) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Most watches feature some deliberate degree of decoration. On the other hand, there is architecture, but very few watches elevate architecture to the level of decoration. The Lang & Heyne Friedrich III stands among that elite.
SJX Watches
Originally launched in 2019 as a fundraising exercise for the Musée International d’Horlogerie (MIH), the Gaïa wristwatch is returning for the museum’s 50th anniversary this year. The MIH is marking the occasion with a pair of watches, the Gaïa Series III and Gaïa 50th Anniversary, both limited editions that will help fund restoration work and promotional activities at the museum. The two watches share the unique design of earlier Gaïa editions, but now the dials are engraved. Notably, the Gaïa 50th Anniversary (pictured above) has a guilloche dial that’s hand made by Georges Brodbeck, a veteran guillocheur whose workshop was acquired by Voutilainen two years ago. The Gaïa Series III with a laser engraved dial Initial thoughts As with the earlier Gaïa watches, the new pair are a great way to support one of Switzerland’s leading watch and clock museums. But the Gaïa is not just a charity project, it is an appealing and well-priced watch. The price has risen slightly, from CHF2,900 for the original to CHF3,400 for the Gaïa III, but the increase is modest relative to the watch industry as a whole, and the watch remains a value buy. The Gaïa anniversary is twice the price at over CHF5,000, but still value considering the hand-made guilloche dial. It’s one of the handful of watches in this price range with a traditional engine-turned dial, plus it has an unusual time display and case. The closest comparison is the Louis Erard Excellence that is less expensi...
Quill & Pad
Many think that Louis Vuitton's first watch was the Tambour, which was launched in 2002. However the brand actually began with a watch collection called Monterey in the 1980s. The Monterey I, an unusual worldtime watch designed by Gae Aulenti with date and moon phase, was soon followed by the ceramic-encased Monterey II that added an alarm function.
Deployant
Introducing the Lange & Heyne and introducing the 7 piece limited edition Friedrich III Remontoir Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition.
Time+Tide
Makina's latest devilish release is the most refined yet.The post The Makina Mephisto III is worthy of a deal with the devil appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
I don’t know about you, but after seeing Challengers, I’ve been on a tennis kick lately. Having discovered the sport late in life, I’m now ravenously consuming all things tennis. So when I heard that Maurice de Mauriac has partnered with Racquet Magazine for the next iteration of their Rallymaster, I had to take a look. Like previous models, the Rallymaster III combines vintage elements with a clever eye for details, thanks to designer Carlton DeWoody’s playful touch points throughout the watch. With Wimbledon being the inspiration for this model (previous points of reference included Roland Garros and the US Open), there is a level of retro charm to this one that carries the theme throughout the watch. Most notably in this new reference, we have an olive-green dial that’s reminiscent of lawn courts and the use of 18-carat gold, giving the watch an overall elegant finish while still being playful. I’m particularly fond of the tennis ball indices and the seconds sub-dial at 9 o’clock, which features 20 second increments (the traditional tennis serve time). Finally, playing into British design language, DeWoody incorporates tan-colored straps to complete the ‘green over tan’ look, a favorite among British vintage and luxury car enthusiasts. Of the overall design, DeWoody says, “I aimed to bridge past and present, reinterpreting classic design with a contemporary lens. The colorful sub-dials and patterning of yachting and racing dials were the perfect insp...
Worn & Wound
It was early summer in 2020 and it felt like the entire world was on fire. The Coronavirus was running rampant, and the Quebec Government had instituted draconian lockdown measures, which included a nightly curfew. If residents were not in their homes by 8pm, fines were issued. It was a horrible time. My wife and I had no choice but to work from home, and both of my boys were attempting homeschooling for the first time. My oldest was in his second year of college and my youngest was in his last year of high school. We all struggled with this new way of doing things. On the bright side however, all this togetherness allowed me to introduce my kids to some of my beloved film franchises. We went through all the Die Hards, Lethal Weapons, Beverly Hills Cops and Aliens. The latter really stuck with them and my oldest found a video game called Alien Isolation, which he insisted we try. So, we did. Coincidentally Monta had sent me an OnceanKing to review and to this day, in my brain, this watch is linked to the Alien franchise and the great time I had with my boys kicking Alien posterior! I really, really liked the Monta OceanKing version II, nevertheless it was not without its flaws. Some of which have been addressed with the new version III which I’ve been lent for review. So, let’s dive in and see what they have done. The dimensions have remained very similar, with a diameter of 40.5mm (down from 40.7mm), a thickness of 12mm (same as the previous model) and a lug-to-lug le...
Time+Tide
Micro gas tubes, a manufacture movement, and a unique lumed bezel in a capable diver.The post The Ball Skindiver III Beyond combines tritium gas lume with an impressive movement appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
One of the most anticipated watches by an independent watchmaker to go under the hammer this season has set a record: the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain I (RRCCI) in pink gold sold at Phillips’ Hong Kong auction for HK$7.24 million including fees, equivalent to US$924,000. Notable for being in an ordinary, as opposed to charity, auction, the result of almost US$1.0 million puts its maker, the founder of Akrivia, in rarefied company alongside the likes of F.P. Journe, the only other independent watchmakers whose time-only watches can sell for such sums. The RRCCI that just sold was the first example of the model to emerge at auction, with only one other example having sold on the secondary market but privately. With the watch already sold out and a long waiting list for its successor, the RRCCII, there were high expectations for the watch at Phillips, which originally retailed for under US$70,000. Everyone’s on it The excitement as the lot came up was palpable. Auctioneer Aurel Bacs commented that so many bidders were phoning in that every Phillips employee on the phone bank was on the line. Although there were at least a half dozen bidders to start with – all on the phone save for one room bidder – the contenders thinned out at the HK$4.00 million mark. Remaining were just three bidders: Alex Ghotbi and Tiffany To of Phillips on the phones with clients, and the gentleman at the back of the room. Both based in Geneva, Mr Ghotbi and Ms To were presumably re...
Time+Tide
Following on from Sotheby’s Important Watches: Part I and Part II on the following day, it’s always interesting to go through and assess not only the value of the watches themselves but any emerging trends and patterns. Whether you’re trying to figure out what the next best investment piece may be, or just keeping up … ContinuedThe post Three post-sale lessons from Sotheby’s Important Watches Parts I & II appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
When I was young, just like many other kids, I dreamed of being a fighter pilot. Perhaps it was the infectiously catchy Kenny Loggins song that I imagined playing in the cockpit whilst dog-fighting with my friends at high speed, or maybe it was my dream of having a legitimately cool call-sign, “Elektra” perhaps. Whatever … ContinuedThe post Big Watches, Small Wrists Part III: Can I pull off a pilot’s watch? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
We take a look at a solid diver's watch, albeit from a less-known watch brand. Cue the robust and reliable German-made Dievas Maya MK III.
Time+Tide
As a brand of both honoured heritage and cutting-edge design, we’re quite used to seeing a mix of looks from Ball. Generally, they have a sharp and sophisticated look, giving the impression that their watches could survive a year in the wilderness but still make it to dinner reservations in a respectable form. The latest … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Ball Engineer M Skindiver III Beyond combines slick looks with rugged swagger appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Introducing the Nodus Retrospect III now available with two new dial colors. Read for photos, full specs, analysis, and more.
Time+Tide
The Outlier is a perfect name for a Ball watch, as the brand themselves have always been somewhat of an eccentric addition to the list of historic watchmakers, despite significant contributions to horological advancement. Their story is interwoven with risk and adversity, pioneering standards of accuracy and reliability through the American railways and now with … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Ball Engineer III Outlier collection is a watch built for adventure appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
With a name like Pioneer, it should come as no surprise that the Hanhard Pioneer Mk I and Mk II have some significant historical relevance. Built around the ‘Calibre 40’ movement, these watches were originally designed in the late 1930s for German pilots and soon became fairly legendary. The now-iconic red accents on the bezel … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Hanhart Pioneer Mk I and Mk II Reverse Panda appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Hanhart extends their classic pilot chronographs Pioneer Mk I and Pioneer Mk II with a new dial variation in the form of the Reverse Panda.
Time+Tide
BALL are a bit of an oddity in the hierarchy of Swiss watches, having enjoyed such a rich history but not always getting the attention they deserve. They’re not exactly a budget brand, but their prices are definitely reasonable, so they fit into a very versatile pocket of luxury. Having been updated with three fresh colour … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The BALL Engineer III Marvelight Chronometer 40mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
One of the most unusual amongst F.P. Journe’s offerings, the Vagabondage I was the first of a trio that combined a tortue case with an unconventional time display, along with dials that feature no branding at all. Launched in 2004 and long gone from the brand’s catalogue, the Vagabondage I now makes a return with a new case, dial, and movement – all of which are improved over the original. Initial thoughts The original Vagabondage I was interesting because of its wandering, jumping hour display, along with the central balance wheel visible on the dial. Eighteen years later the new Vagabondage I is interesting for the same reason, because it is essentially the same watch. While the new Vagabondage I has been updated in several ways, ranging from a larger case to a new movement, it retains the familiar look. That also means it looks like a watch from the early 2000s with a slightly dated air compared to most wandering hours on the market today. But that’s exactly what makes it cool. It is an old idea but one that has been improved in just the right ways. Most important amongst them is the case, which wider and longer than the original, giving it dimensions almost identical to the Vagabondage II and III. It still remains elegant and wearable, but the new case size is more appealing than that of the original, which is a little too small. Inching forward Fans of the brand will be familiar with the story of the Vagabondage, but here’s a quick recap: it start with a on...
Deployant
We take a comprehensive look at the new dark green Orient Mako III Kamasu, and give you the low down on this inexpensive tool watch.
WatchAdvice
Introduction If there’s one thing that IWC has a handle on, it’s Pilot’s watches. Within the brands iconic Pilot’s collection is the popular Mark XVIII range, which serves as a charming entry point to the family. I recently had the pleasure of spending several weeks with the Mark XVIII (reference IW327009), which is the stainless steel, black dial model, on a leather strap. Having previously reviewed several other IWC Pilot’s pieces, including the Pilot’s Automatic Spitfire, I was curious to explore the brand’s entry-level offering further. The Dial & Hands Featuring a black dial with white luminescent markers, the Mark XVIII is simple and understated. The large white markers and numerals are easy to read at a glance, and perfectly contrast with the black dial. Even in full sun, it’s easy to read the dial, which under harsher light appears to turn matt. There’ll be no red-eyes come evening thanks to the generous luminescence and large markers. Since it’s release, the Mark XVIII’s date window has been a sticking point for some, primarily for its lack of symmetry, or it’s mere existence. Ultimately this comes down to personal taste, and after several weeks of wearing the Mark XVIII – I took no issue with it. The date window, admittedly a little out of place, blended in nicely with the rest of the dial, thanks to a matching date wheel. It’s also worth noting that this is an undeniable improvement on the it’s predecessor’s (the Mark XVII) date...
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: You don’t need to be a naval captain (or even a cook) to appreciate the lovely case shape and bold details of the Rado Captain Cook Mk III. So funky, so so smooth. The other day we showed you the very heritage-inspired Captain Cook Mark II from Rado. Well, now it’s time for … ContinuedThe post Looking back to the future with Rado’s Captain Cook Mark III appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Earlier this year, Blancpain announced the third generation of their charitable champion - the Blancpain Ocean Commitment III, a limited edition take on their iconic Fifty Fathoms. And while previous versions have distinguished themselves by being ceramic and Bathyscaphe, this time around we were treated to a regular (and regularly sized) Fifty Fathoms, in that … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Diving into the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Ocean Commitment III appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
In depth review of the Ball Watches Engineer III King - wristshots, photos, case construction insights, and more - check out the review now!
Time+Tide
Today is World Oceans Day, a day that has, since 1992, celebrated our marine environments, and raised awareness for the need to preserve them. It’s a worthy cause, and one Blancpain, with their exceptional legacy in dive watches, has done a lot to support and promote. Most visibly through a series of Ocean Commitment watches. … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Blancpain makes a splash with the Fifty Fathoms Ocean Commitment III appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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