Results for Swiss vs Japanese Watchmaking

Bangkok Is Hosting Southeast Asia’s First Global Watch Showcase This September

Five Of The Wildest Watches From Geneva Watch Days 2025

Last week, Swiss tradition threw off its tie and experimented in a number of exciting ways.

Rare cars, rare watches, and in the grounds of a royal palace

A car show can be combined with watches better than anything else and when you throw Hampton Court Palace into the mix, can it get better?The post Rare cars, rare watches, and in the grounds of a royal palace appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hong Kong and Beyond at the Hong Kong Watch and Clock Fair (HKWCF)

The Hong Kong Clock and Watch Fair has closed its doors, so it's time to examine the facts and figures, highlights, trends, and what this might mean for the future of an industry that has been doing considerable head-scratching lately.

Hands On: Panerai Revives the Luminor 5218

There were few brands as hot as Panerai in the 2000s, and now the brand is revisiting its glory days with the Luminor Marina Militare 44 mm PAM05218. Visually, the PAM05218 a faithful remake of the Luminor ref. 5218-202/A of 1993, a “Pre-Vendome” model that became one of the most desirable watches of the 2000s. The watch retains the same design and many of the details, including the “non matching” hands, but has been upgraded with modern amenities, including a diamond-like carbon (DLC) coating for the case and a three-day movement. Initial thoughts Enthusiasts who were in the hobby in the 2000s will remember the frenzy around Panerai, which was probably the fastest growing brand during the period. Many models sold over retail, sometimes for multiples. The “vintage” models like the Luminor ref. 5218-202/A were even more valuable; it cost a healthy, mid-five figures at the time. In fact, the ref. 5218-202/A cost more than an F.P. Journe Resonance at the time. In retrospect, most of it was comical yet also seems familiar given the happenings in recent years. Times have changed, but the PAM05218 is essentially unchanged from the original – which is great for those who appreciate the functional, stark design of Panerai’s core models. I like those designs, and I like the PAM05218. If there’s one Panerai in the current catalogue I would buy, it is this one. At a distance, the PAM05218 is indistinguishable from the original, but up close it is clearly a new watc...

Bulgari & Lee Ufan scratch out a new look for the Octo Finissimo (live pics)

Bulgari collaborates with Korean-born, Japan-based artist Lee Ufan on an eye-catching Octo Finissimo with a hand-filled titanium case.The post Bulgari & Lee Ufan scratch out a new look for the Octo Finissimo (live pics) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Rebellious Watchmaking of Ondřej Berkus

While the industry resumes normal operations following Geneva Watch Days, we’re taking a quick detour to the Italy to see what Ondřej Berkus has been up to. The Deadbeat Seconds 2.0 is the latest delivery from the self-taught watchmaker and is a good example of how far his watchmaking has come in recent years. As the name suggests, the DS 2.0 is the second watch Mr Berkus has made in this style, but like all of his creations, the two are remarkably different in execution. Initial thoughts There’s a reassuring degree of predictability to the luxury watch industry. It’s a conservative industry built on tradition, which reinforces unspoken norms about what counts as a high end watch. The result is conformity; most watchmakers march to a similar beat and stick to their respective niches. This uniformity helps customers understand the products, but as a consequence many of the products can be criticised as homogenous and impersonal. In contrast, the watchmaking of Ondřej Berkus is refreshingly human. He has no formal website, and conducts business via Instagram. He does not release collections, and no two pieces are entirely alike; each watch is created in dialogue with a collector. A self-taught watchmaker, Mr Berkus manages to pull this off thanks in part to his distinctive approach to finishing. While most contemporary independent watchmakers focus on simple movements executed to a high level, Mr Berkus flips the script, and strives to deliver watches that are unique...

Introducing: The MB&F; Legacy Machine 101 Evo

It’s hard to believe that MB&F; has been in business for 20 years. Yet, here we are with the marque that was part of a new wave of independents changing the look of Haute Horlogerie. Futuristic and funky designs are a hallmark of MB&F;. Today’s latest pair of Legacy Machine 101 (LM101) Evo watches continues […] Visit Introducing: The MB&F; Legacy Machine 101 Evo to read the full article.

First Look: DOXA at Geneva Watch Days 2025

Zenith Drops the Defy Chronograph USM

Recap - The 10 Best Watches of Geneva Watch Days

In just a couple of short years, Geneva Watch Days has grown from about 20 brands into a global powerhouse fair of 66 officially participating brands, and a lot of others in and around the city showcasing tradition, creativity and innovation in watchmaking. This year, several major brands joined in on the celebration of watches […]

First Look: Czapek & Cie. at Geneva Watch Days 2025

Hands On With The New TAG Heuer Carrera Astronomer

TAG Heuer has released a new look Carrera that is very different to the standard racing-inspired models. The Carrera Astronomer is designed to cast your eyes to the heavens with its new moonphase complication, and we’ve gone hands-on for a review. What We Love The dial design is unique and looks great Very easy to wear and comfortable 39mm size The Beads of Rice bracelet elevates this piece What We Don’t Lack of lume on the dial No micro-adjust on the clasp A date display could have added to the functionality Overall Rating: 8.4 / 10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 For TAG Heuer’s first outing at Geneva Watch Days, it has released some very cool pieces, one of which (well, three really) is the TAG Heuer Carrera Astronomer. A new take on the traditional moonphase complication, TAG Heuer has set out to embark on a new phase for the famous Carrera line. It has introduced three different variations of the Carrera Astronomer – A 500-piece limited edition with grey dial accents and leather strap, a seconds 500-piece limited edition two-tone steel and 18k rose gold plated model, and this, which I’m reviewing today – the full stainless steel model as part of the core collection. The new TAG Heuer Carrera Astronomer Collection with two limited edition pieces on leather and in two-tone, and the full steel core collection model But why an astronomical complication in the Carrera? So, in 1962, a significant moment in both watc...

Review: the Furlan Marri Disco Volante Onyx Diamonds

The newest release by independent brand Furlan Marri adds a bit of bling to an out-of-this-world Art Deco staple. The brand teased their release of the new Disco Volante Onyx Diamonds this April at Watches and Wonders in Geneva, after the success of the line’s initial debut last year (which was covered here by Zach Kazan). The addition of diamonds on watches is something I have thought about often. My existence as a woman in the watch world frequently demands a more honest reflection about the intersection of watches and jewelry, and where my preferences fit in. Diamonds can either elevate or detract from a watch as a whole. One of the perks of reviewing watches is that I get to experience a large variety of designs that push the boundaries of my comfort zone and expose me to references that cover a wide array of aesthetics. I’ve been able to wear teeny-tiny little somethings and classically-inspired beauties that often belie the usual style of my personal collection. Certainly, I consider myself a more critical and informed collector because of it.  Diamonds can be divisive – something I covered in my analysis of the release of the Doxa Sub 200T Diamonds last year. I will be the first to admit that when I see “diamonds” in the name of a new watch, my defenses go up a bit and I brace myself for subtly garish wealth-signaling disguised as intentional design choices. But when it comes to the new Furlan Marri Disco Volante Onyx Diamonds, I was so relieved to be pro...

Christopher Ward Bel Canto Review

London-based watchmaker Christopher Ward has achieved the impossible in its relatively short number of years in the watch game, catapulting from if you know, you-know microbrand to one of the most continuously successful indie watch brands on the market. Its founding principles remain largely unchanged, though its scale has grown in the 24 years since its founding: make high-quality watches while cutting what could be called the luxury tax in the industry with a direct-to-consumer model. But there is one distinct product that put the brand on the map more than any other, and that was the introduction of its own chiming watch at an unheard-of price point, the Christopher Ward Bel Canto. As you might have already guessed by the article title, today, we’re taking a microscopic view of the C1 Bel Canto, exploring what has made the watch such a crowd-favorite, and how it holds up today, four years after its initial release.  Christopher Ward Bel Canto History As always, let us begin our horological journey with a history primer on Christopher Ward’s pathway to contemporary success. Luckily for you (and your dear writer), the brand doesn’t have as sweeping a history as many of the centuries-old watchmakers out there, so we can really dive into the microscopic view here. Christopher Ward, whom I would bestow the title of reigning King of Indie Watch Brands, has one of the scrappiest origin stories in the watch world. Founded in 2004 by the trio of Mike France, Peter Ellis,...

First Look - New Vintage-Styled Editions of the Alpina Seastrong Diver Extreme

Alpina has steadily carved out a niche for robust sports watches that balance land and sea credentials, and the Seastrong Diver Extreme Automatic is a good example of this dual spirit. Introduced last year in a compact 39mm Extreme cushion-shaped case with 300m water resistance, it was already a natural fusion of the Alpiner’s rugged […]

First Look: H. Moser & Cie. at Geneva Watch Days 2025

Introducing: The Oris Big Crown Calibre 113 And Oris × Bamford ProPilot Altimeter “Mission Control”

Today, Oris is releasing two big and bold watches. First is the Big Crown Calibre 113, and second is the Oris × Bamford ProPilot Altimeter “Mission Control.” The Big Crown comes with the 10-day power reserve of Calibre 113, which debuted in 2017. It includes a non-linear power reserve indicator, day and date, plus a […] Visit Introducing: The Oris Big Crown Calibre 113 And Oris × Bamford ProPilot Altimeter “Mission Control” to read the full article.

Introducing: Oris x Bamford ProPilot Altimeter ‘Mission Control’

With some help from George Bamford, the Propilot reaches new heights.

Exploring the CWC SBS Diver: The Perfect Blend of Style and Military Heritage

A review of the CWC SBS Diver watch, a military-inspired timepiece that blends authenticity and modern design. Is it worth the £729 price tag?

Introducing The Ulysse Nardin Freak X Crystalium

In-Depth: Ferdinand Berthoud Tests the Limits of ‘Hand Made’

Few brands approach marine chronometer-style wristwatches with the intensity of Ferdinand Berthoud (FB). Fewer still have the capacity to produce a watch that is truly hand made. The brand has leaned into these strengths to good effect with the Naissance d’une Montre 3, which is perhaps the most labour-intensive wristwatch ever created. Marking the third official chapter of the Time Æon Foundation’s Naissance d’une Montre project, the Montre 3 is the byproduct of a six year quest to thoroughly document the steps required to make a chain and fusee wristwatch using only hand-operated tools. While the production of the Montre 3 involves more than 80 individuals from both FB and its parent Chopard, the labour involved equates to roughly a full year’s work for five people to produce each of the 11 pieces that will be made in the coming years. Initial thoughts It’s easy to feel jaded about the smoke and mirrors of luxury watch marketing, with terms like ‘hand made’ and ‘in-house’ used all too freely, making it difficult to separate the signal from the noise. Make no mistake, the Montre 3 is, in some ways, what all traditional haute horlogerie watches aspire to be, and takes the concept of hand craftsmanship to its absolute limit. The Montre 3 is neither inventive nor complicated, but the intrinsic quality of its construction is immediately obvious and breathtaking in its own right. To some extent, the simplicity of the 44.3 mm white gold case demonstrates the ...

Introducing: The Ultra-Limited 15th-Anniversary Laurent Ferrier Classic Tourbillon Teal

In 2010, Laurent Ferrier launched his independent career with the Classic Tourbillon, a watch that immediately won the Men’s Watch Prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. That first creation set the tone for the Geneva-based brand - understated designs hiding serious horological substance. Now, 15 years later, Laurent Ferrier celebrates this milestone with […] Visit Introducing: The Ultra-Limited 15th-Anniversary Laurent Ferrier Classic Tourbillon Teal to read the full article.

Hands-On: Furlan Marri Disco Diamonds Onyx - A New Affordable Entry Into Subtle Gemsetting

A natural onyx dial and lab-grown diamonds combines with a modernized take on the Disco Volante for an attractive-and limited-release. We look at the history of precious stone indices and historical takes on the "flying saucer" design.

First Look - The Furlan Marri Disco Volante Diamonds Onyx, a Brilliant Flashback Watch

When you hear the word ‘Disco’, your mind will probably wander to the era of bell-bottom jeans, platform shoes, funky music and glitter balls. But with the Disco Volante, indie watchmakers Furlan Marri travel back in time even further, rekindling design codes from the 1930s. You see, the ‘Disco’ part refers to a saucer, and […]

New: MB&F; LM101 EVO

Celebrating Maximilian Büsser & Friends (MB&F;)'s 20th Anniversary, the avangarde Swiss Haute Horlogerie Maison launches the iconic LM101 EVO.

Introducing - The New MB&F; LM101 EVO, Reborn to be Worn

It might seem like aeons ago, but MB&F;’s Legacy Machine dynasty is still a teenager in watchmaking terms. Launched in 2011, the LM family turned our perceptions of MB&F;’s galactic design language inside out and upside down. Flying back to 19th-century watchmaking for inspiration, Max Büsser’s vision of a monumental balance wheel suspended on the […]

Dennison doubles down with the ALD Dual Time

Dennison drops a two-for-one, dropping two movements into a single ALD case to create a very retro travel watch.The post Dennison doubles down with the ALD Dual Time appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

From the Founders of Worn & Wound: A Call to Support RT Custer and His Family

Our friend, colleague, and founder of Vortic Watch Co, RT Custer, needs our support. After a sudden medical emergency earlier this summer, RT and his family face a long road to recovery. As a result, there is significant uncertainty around the future of Vortic Watch Co and its sister brand Colorado Watch Co, not to mention the physical, mental, and financial hardship that comes with any major medical event. We’re here to help spread the word of RT’s situation and urge the watch community to support his recovery. CLICK HERE TO DONATE TO RT’S GOFUNDME CAMPAIGN Earlier this summer, RT suffered a massive stroke while traveling for work in Detroit. Very fortunately, RT was taken within minutes to a Level 1 trauma center, where he received clot-busting medication and underwent emergency surgery to remove a clot blocking over 90% of his right cerebral artery. He spent 10 days hospitalized, then 10 days in rehabilitation relearning to walk and manage daily tasks. Doctors expect a full recovery, but neurological healing will take time-roughly 12 months before considering a return to work and 2–3 years before resuming the full demands of running a company. RT’s wife, Lindsay, has stepped in to run business operations for both companies. In addition to being a great guy, RT has been an essential part of the watch community since Vortic was founded in 2013. He’s pioneered contemporary American manufacturing and has played a key role in keeping the long history of America...

Introducing - The Appetising H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Smoked Salmon

From its refined case constructions and intelligent movements to its seductive fumé dials and dashing minimalism, H. Moser & Cie. knows how to captivate the senses. Another in-house speciality is Moser’s skill in simplifying complex displays, a feat revealed with its first perpetual calendar complication in 2005. A triumph of simplicity, elegance and user-friendliness, Moser’s […]