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Hermès New Watches For 2020 Featuring The Daringly Different Aaaargh! (Video) Quill & Pad
Hermes Oct 25, 2020

Hermès New Watches For 2020 Featuring The Daringly Different Aaaargh! (Video)

Our friends at The Watches TV had a chance to see the Hermès watches for 2020 – and they (and we) were in luck to also hear from La Montre Hermès CEO Laurent Dordet. Host Marc André Deschoux goes through the new Hermès pieces one by one, beginning with the 2020 L’Heure de la Lune, the first version of which launched in 2019, which he thinks is "A super-hot watch.” Things go seriously wacky from there.

IN-DEPTH: The  TAG Heuer Carrera Collection, powered by a movement from the present, with an all-time classic design from the past Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Carrera Collection powered Oct 25, 2020

IN-DEPTH: The TAG Heuer Carrera Collection, powered by a movement from the present, with an all-time classic design from the past

As a watch journalist in 2020, based in Europe under the draconian rule of the pandemic, it’s easy to lose perspective and here is a particular example. Despite my missionary preachings and personal taste, 38-39 millimetres is not the Goldilocks size for everyone. So, with this self-realisation in mind, the  TAG Heuer Carrera Collection is … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The TAG Heuer Carrera Collection, powered by a movement from the present, with an all-time classic design from the past appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Those crazy bastards at Watchonista are sponsoring a NASCAR team Time+Tide
Oct 24, 2020

Those crazy bastards at Watchonista are sponsoring a NASCAR team

Editor’s note: There’s always been a healthy competitiveness between Time+Tide and Watchonista. This was evident when we recently did an Instagram live session that quickly degenerated into a State Of The Collection showdown between Andrew, Josh, and his wife Viviana. Now, they’ve gone and upped the ante by sponsoring a NASCAR team. So, if there … ContinuedThe post Those crazy bastards at Watchonista are sponsoring a NASCAR team appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Ressence Type 2A/2G: Is This Electronic-Mechanical Hybrid Timepiece The Future Of Mechanical Watchmaking? Quill & Pad
Ressence Type 2A/2G Oct 24, 2020

Ressence Type 2A/2G: Is This Electronic-Mechanical Hybrid Timepiece The Future Of Mechanical Watchmaking?

With concept cars, it is typical for most of the features on the prototype to be weeded out once the design is optimized for manufacturing. The electronical-mechanical Ressence Type 2 is the complete opposite, Joshua Munchow says, as it has retained pretty much every single thing the concept watch of 2018 offered and has only improved in function. Is the Ressence Type 2 the future of mechanical watches?

Up Close: S.U.F. Sarpaneva x Moomin SJX Watches
Sarpaneva Oct 24, 2020

Up Close: S.U.F. Sarpaneva x Moomin

Finnish independent watchmaker Stepan Sarpaneva is famous for his frowning moon “face”, an instantly recognisable emblem of contemporary watchmaking. But he also makes more affordable watches under the S.U.F. Helsinki label, which recently launched the S.U.F. Sarpaneva x Moomin, a cartoon watch that is seriously good. Created to celebrate the 75th anniversary of Moomin, a series of books and comics by Finnish author Tove Jansson, the Moomin watch is based on the S.U.F. 180, a fuss-free three-hander that’s inspired by vintage military-issue watches, but dressed up with a three-layer dial hand painted in multiple shades of Super-Luminova. Even in moderately low light, the dial glows in technicolor glory – that alone is worth the modest price of admission. Initial thoughts The S.U.F. Sarpaneva x Moomin is different and compelling, but easy to wear and put together notably well. Specifically, the dial and case are executed to a high level. The dial is three layers, and then hand finished and hand painted, while the case is a slim but robust construction that is finished skilfully. And the Moomin watch retailed for €5,000, or about US$5,900 – making it excellent value for money. The quality and detail of the dial – think of it as affordable metiers d’art – is especially outstanding for the price. Admittedly, Moomin has no particular resonance for me – and won’t for anyone who isn’t a fan of the comic – but the dial in itself is appealing. It’s qu...

Hands-on review: Zenith Chronomaster Revival “Shadow” Deployant
Zenith Chronomaster Revival “Shadow” DEPLOYANT Oct 24, 2020

Hands-on review: Zenith Chronomaster Revival “Shadow”

A timepiece shrouded in mystery. Its existence has eluded collectors and Zenith  collaborators alike for decades. As the legend goes, in 1970, not long after Zenith debuted  the groundbreaking El Primero calibre, the manufacture had produced a prototype of a manual-winding chronograph, housed in a blackened steel case – a rarity for the time. Only Read More

The Bulgari x The Rake x Revolution “White Light” Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT is seriously lit Time+Tide
Bulgari x Oct 24, 2020

The Bulgari x The Rake x Revolution “White Light” Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT is seriously lit

One of the key pillars of a well-made watch is legibility. Consumers are always critical of how a dial is laid out and how strong and visible the luminescent material becomes once it’s in a darker setting. The Bulgari x The Rake x Revolution “White Light” Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT brightens up 2020 with its … ContinuedThe post The Bulgari x The Rake x Revolution “White Light” Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT is seriously lit appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

That time David Beckham wore a blacked-out Rolex Sea-Dweller courtside, with a custom Tudor thrown in Time+Tide
Tudor thrown Oct 23, 2020

That time David Beckham wore a blacked-out Rolex Sea-Dweller courtside, with a custom Tudor thrown in

Earlier in the week we uncovered a group of celebrities whose daily weapon of choice is not just a modded Rolex, but a modded Milgauss. And not just modded, fully blacked-out, including the bracelet. In our research for that story, with a little help from Nick Gould, we discovered this example – David Beckham wearing … ContinuedThe post That time David Beckham wore a blacked-out Rolex Sea-Dweller courtside, with a custom Tudor thrown in appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hublot Introduces the Meca-10 Clock SJX Watches
Hublot Introduces Oct 23, 2020

Hublot Introduces the Meca-10 Clock

Time-only but visually and mechanically interesting, the Hublot Meca-10 wristwatch has a skeleton movement inspired by Meccano, the children’s construction toy. Now it’s been blown up – by a multiple of four – to create the Meca-10 Clock. Created in collaboration with Swiss clockmaker L’Epée, best known for the clocks it has made for MB&F; and Chanel, the Meca-10 Clock retains all of the key features of its wristwatch counterpart, namely the skeletonised construction and lengthy, 10-day running time. The clock and the watch that inspired it Initial thoughts Compared to the prolific, sci-fi clocks of MB&F;, the Meca-10 is more traditional. But it sets itself apart technically with its purpose-built, 10-day movement. In contrast, clocks by other brands express themselves in terms of case architecture, and mostly rely on the same the L’Epée 8-day movement. The Meca-10 has a straightforward, square case that resembles the typical Hublot Big Bang. The highlight is the movement, which originated in Hublot’s own movement development department led by Matthias Buttet, the brand’s resident technical guru, and subsequently built by L’Epee. The result is a clock that is legible and mechanically interesting, just like the Meca-10 wristwatch, giving the clock a similar sort of appeal. But the Meca-10 clock is surprisingly expensive, starting at US$47,400 for the steel version. That can be justified to a degree by the unique movement, but it’s still twice the pric...

Watchmaking: A Primer on Frosting by a Watchmaker SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Masahiro Kikuno Oct 23, 2020

Watchmaking: A Primer on Frosting by a Watchmaker

Fine finishing in high-end watchmaking automatically brings to mind polished bevels, black-polished steel, Cotes de Geneve, blueing, and even perlage. But less thought is given to frosting, even though it is prominent in the grandest of timepieces made by leading independent watchmakers. Put simply, frosting is the treatment of a metal to create an uneven, pitted surface. A beautifully rough finish, frosting dulls the appearance of the component it is applied to. Many brands rely on the technique for decoration, but often in strikingly different forms. Akrivia, Greubel Forsey, Masahiro Kikuno, and Roger W. Smith are all known for their frosted finishes, but each differs from the other in technique and aesthetic effect. The frosted bridges on the front of the Greubel Forsey Hand Made 1 Heroes and sidekicks When it comes to finishing methods in horology, I like to separate them into two categories: heroes and sidekicks. The sidekicks – such as perlage, graining, and of course frosting – are the methods that help the heroes stand out. Do not think any less of the sidekicks because without them, the heroes would not get the attention they deserve. The heroes are the methods that make you wonder: “This is beautiful – how did they do that?” Black polishing, blueing and engraving are just a few of them. As in the comic books, heroes and sidekicks work together to make each other look good. But as is frequently the case in fiction, sidekicks are often forgotten. Take fo...

VIDEO: Finally…! The Bulgari Octo Finissimo satin-polished steel with blue dial captured in glorious high definition here Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo Finissimo satin-polished steel Oct 22, 2020

VIDEO: Finally…! The Bulgari Octo Finissimo satin-polished steel with blue dial captured in glorious high definition here

The Bulgari Octo Finissimo has seen the update it was waiting for this year, with the announcement in January that it was going to be produced in steel. The months since that announcement have felt both very slow and very fast at the same time, and some may have missed that the Bulgari Octo Finissimo … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Finally…! The Bulgari Octo Finissimo satin-polished steel with blue dial captured in glorious high definition here appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Memovox: Sounds Traveling Through Water Like Whale Song Quill & Pad
Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Memovox Sounds Oct 22, 2020

Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Memovox: Sounds Traveling Through Water Like Whale Song

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Memovox doesn’t just sound as good below water as it does above, it sounds even better! While many of the recent Memovox models have been unashamedly contemporized, the Polaris Mariner Memovox is a relatively faithful tribute to the original 1965 Polaris. And it sounds as charming as the original, but better in every way.

Watch, out! The Cartiers that might cost a career Time+Tide
Cartier s Oct 22, 2020

Watch, out! The Cartiers that might cost a career

What would you think if the boss handed out a stack of Cartier watches to reward you for your efforts this year? We’d say that sounds like a pretty great place to work. (And, yes, this story is a thinly veiled hint to T+T boss, Andrew, as he plans this year’s Christmas bonuses) ((Dream on, … ContinuedThe post Watch, out! The Cartiers that might cost a career appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Bell & Ross BR 05 Chrono SJX Watches
Bell & Ross BR 05 Chrono Bell Oct 22, 2020

Up Close: Bell & Ross BR 05 Chrono

Bell & Ross’ integrated-bracelet sports watch gets an upgrade this year, with the bigger, and arguably better, BR 05 Chrono. The new chronograph retains the design of the basic BR 05, but incorporates 1970s racing-chronograph style with its twin square registers. At the same time, the case design and finish work better on the larger format, but the case of the chronograph is surprisingly thin, resulting in an unusually slim profile on the wrist for what it is. Initial thoughts In the heavily-populated category of integrated-bracelet sports watches, the best value is typically found at the less obvious brands. In its class, the Chopard Alpine Eagle XL Chrono is just excellent, and so is the H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner, albeit in a higher price class. In the affordable category, the BR 05 does well. The three-hands-and-date BR 05 is solidly executed and well priced, but looks and feels a little small, despite being 40 mm (and the skeleton version of the same is cooler but pricey). The best feature of the BR 05 is the case, which is neatly finished and nicely detailed, particularly in its price segment. The new BR 05 Chrono fixes the size issue. It retains the same case and finishing, but grows it to 42 mm. The larger size is just right – the proportions that suit the look of the watch. And design-wise the chronograph also works better – and looks more distinct than its time-only counterpart. The chronograph has a 1970s-racing-watch vibe, rather than the fashionable an...

Mass gains! Hublot are peak 2020 as they release a mechanical desk clock FOUR TIMES the size of the Meca-10 model Time+Tide
Massena Lab MB&F; Oct 22, 2020

Mass gains! Hublot are peak 2020 as they release a mechanical desk clock FOUR TIMES the size of the Meca-10 model

In Scandinavia we have a traditional saying: all good things come in threes. And, boy, does this apply to clocks in 2020. First, the Hodinkee table clock that broke the internet and brutally maimed the comments section, then the futuristic T-Rex from Massena LAB, MB&F; and L’Epée. And here comes lucky number three – the … ContinuedThe post Mass gains! Hublot are peak 2020 as they release a mechanical desk clock FOUR TIMES the size of the Meca-10 model appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Zenith Introduces the Chronomaster Revival Liberty SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces Oct 22, 2020

Zenith Introduces the Chronomaster Revival Liberty

Just days after unveiling the Lupin the Third edition inspired by a Japanese anime series, Zenith has rolled out a limited edition for countries on the other side of the world. The Chronomaster Revival Liberty is similarly based on the El Primero A384, but dressed in red, white, and blue. Initial thoughts Zenith has released several limited edition A384s this year, which can feel a bit too frequent. But to the brand’s credit the editions have all been appealing, and the El Primero in general remains a well-priced chronograph. The Chronomaster Revival Liberty is a good looking watch that retains the 1970s spirit of the A384 while giving it a totally new colour. The tricolour combination brings to mind the American flag, but it is an attractive combination that’s helped by details like the whimsical candy-cane central seconds hand. Gradient blue The key element that sets this A384 edition apart from the others is the dial, which is finished in a matte, graduated blue that darkens towards the edges. The smoked or fumé finish is popular today, but not especially common at Zenith. It’s matched with the red and white striped seconds hand, as well as a red-on-white date disc. The rest of the watch is stock A384, which means it remains true to the 1969 original in size and finish. It’s 37 mm in diameter and finished with radial brushing on its top face, just like the original. And inside is the El Primero 400 movement. Key facts and price Zenith Chronomaster Revival Li...

HANDS-ON: The Bulgari Aluminium time-only – a summer-fresh take on a ’90s lightweight classic, still a winning formula, still fresh Time+Tide
Bulgari Aluminium time-only – Oct 21, 2020

HANDS-ON: The Bulgari Aluminium time-only – a summer-fresh take on a ’90s lightweight classic, still a winning formula, still fresh

The strangest feeling is to be had when you first put on the Bulgari Aluminium time-only - if you actually get it on in the first place. Holding it makes you do a double take and shift it from left to right hand as if to check your own function as a makeshift human set of … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Bulgari Aluminium time-only – a summer-fresh take on a ’90s lightweight classic, still a winning formula, still fresh appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Ulysse Nardin Blast: Highly Volatile Explosive Quill & Pad
Ulysse Nardin Blast Highly Volatile Explosive Oct 21, 2020

Ulysse Nardin Blast: Highly Volatile Explosive

Ulysse Nardin offers the Blast in five different case versions, and each of these case materials has great impact on the look of the individual watch. In most watches, ceramic cases provide an edgy feel that Martin Green thinks often makes them look better than their metal-encased siblings. Not so with the Blast, he feels. Check out all of his thoughts on this new watch here.

New with hands-on review: IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph TOP GUN Edition “SFTI” REF. IW389104 Deployant
IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph TOP Oct 21, 2020

New with hands-on review: IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph TOP GUN Edition “SFTI” REF. IW389104

IWC extends the Top Gun collection in the Pilot’s Watches range with the the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph TOP GUN Edition “SFTI”. The The new model takes inspiration from the “Strike Fighter Tactics Instructor” watch, which was created in 2018 in honor of the US Naval Aviation Community and is available only for TOPGUN graduates. ThisRead More

Watch four different vibrations per hour (VPH) in slo-mo, care of the macro maestro @horomariobro Time+Tide
Oct 21, 2020

Watch four different vibrations per hour (VPH) in slo-mo, care of the macro maestro @horomariobro

Watchmaking is a game of microns and millimetres. The movements powering wristwatches are effectively a tiny city of gears and levers, that when blown up to a larger scale, become a chronometric Atlantis waiting to be explored and appreciated. One of the first things people notice when looking at a dial of a watch is … ContinuedThe post Watch four different vibrations per hour (VPH) in slo-mo, care of the macro maestro @horomariobro appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Dubai Watch Week 2020 Goes Online SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey  Aline Sylla-Walbaum Christie’s Luxury Oct 20, 2020

Dubai Watch Week 2020 Goes Online

Having taken place in Dubai and London since 2015, Dubai Watch Week (DWW) is now going online. Organised by Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, the largest watch retailer in the Middle East, DWW was traditionally a watch fair catered to consumers and collectors that was a platform for education as well as new product launches. Despite the pandemic, DWW is going ahead as much as is reasonably feasible. “Our objective of uniting the watch community and providing an educational platform is at the forefront of what we hope to achieve via this experience,” explains Hind Seddiqi, Director General of Dubai Watch Week. A scene from an earlier DWW that took place in the Dubai International Financial Centre This year the event takes the form of four panel discussions that will be broadcast live online. The panels will cover familiar topics like the grey market for luxury watches, but also the more intriguing: the October 26 session is about “conspiracy and authenticity and whether the heart of the luxury industry beats in an organic market or is wound-up and coerced into ticking by specific entities”. Representing the breadth of the watch industry, the panellists ranging from auctioneers to entrepreneurs to watchmakers. Amongst the participants are Edouard Meylan of H. Moser & Cie., Stephen Forsey of Greubel Forsey, Aline Sylla-Walbaum, Christie’s Luxury department head, as well as Chief Strategy and Business Development Officer of Seddiqi Holding Christophe Nicaise. And it also ...

New: Armin Strom Lady Beat – the first ladies watch from the brand Deployant
Armin Strom Lady Beat – Oct 20, 2020

New: Armin Strom Lady Beat – the first ladies watch from the brand

The newest watch from Armin Strom demonstrates one of the brand’s core principles: always innovate. Boldly redesigning the brand’s typical movement, dial and case, Lady Beat marks a milestone of the new System 78 Collection, which highlights innovative watchmaking at a competitive price. Press Release Price is set at CHF 16,900. We have requested forRead More

3 ways the Apple Watch Series 6 could help to protect you from COVID-19 Time+Tide
Oct 20, 2020

3 ways the Apple Watch Series 6 could help to protect you from COVID-19

This year has been unlike any other in recent memory. Almost unlike any in living memory. And while that has been for a multitude of complex reasons, much of the responsibility can be uncontroversially laid on the shoulders of the COVID-19 pandemic that has spread across borders. While this has been a global catastrophe, the … ContinuedThe post 3 ways the Apple Watch Series 6 could help to protect you from COVID-19 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.